Hi Folks,

Here's one for you .. I have a nice 1981 242t urbo that I am trying to get back on the road. I recently changed rotors, pads and calipers all around. I didn't trust the existing hardware since she has sat for the past 5 years. The engine seems to be running fine but when I changed calipers on the girl I cannot seem to get the brake to b leed properly. The pedal goes to the floor. :(

Prior to changing the hardware the brakes worked, however the brake failure light kept coming on even after changing out the tail lights and checking all the wiring. So I decided to just change all the hardware for peace of mind. I even changed the bulb failure relay but still to no avail.

To date what I have replaced are the bulb failure relay, rear and front signals, master cylinder, brake booster, junction box, calipers and pads all around and associated hardware. There are no leaks in any of the brake lines and I have a good spurt of brake fluid to the front but dribbles to the rear. I have started bleeding at the master cylinder, the back right .. back left, front right and lastly the front left but the pedal still hits the floor and I hear a whoosh sound when it does. No fluid is found at the junction of the booster and the master cylinder... I'm thinking it's just a bad booster but there is good vacuum to the the supply hose from what I can tell.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

CJLomax

are you trying to bleed with engine going?

Caution:wrong brake fluid can damage seals in M/cylinder, esp in the cheap asian replacement cylinders! They are VERY sensitive to the fluid-and it sounds like yours is bypassing. remove filer cap and have someone watch the fluid when you depress and release the pedal-any surface disturbances indicate bypassing==unit failed-take it back-Ford brake fluid is particularly bad, as is Hyundai for these. I had the same troubles, and woke up fast!

Yes bleeding with engine on and even engine off ..same results

Will look into that ..was using DOT 3 will try DOT 4. I have swapped M/C with a known good and still have the same issue .. I'm thinking it's the booster .. I'll try swapping with a known good one ..

Thanks for the replies!!!

Crap .. just realized that the front calipers have a dimple which denotes what side is left and right. I haven't checked them yet but I'm sure I put the calipers on the wrong sides .. so they'll never bleed.

Wish me luck and thanks for all the insight so far.

cjLomax

For the brake failure light it could be the pressure differential valve is leaking slightly or the pressure differential sensor is bad this sensor is what turns the brake failure light on.