Howdy!

I just found this site, looks great!

We have a 02 S60 AWD, we bought it 2 years ago when we lived in VT, we now live in AZ, last Dec we had a problem with the car not starting, I checked the battery, and it was the original, and low on water, I topped it up, and recharged it for two days, then finally it started! I figured with humidity less than 20% most days (I’ve seen it as low as 3%!) that it just dries out faster out here!

Friday my wife drove it to where I was working, (.5 mi away) and when she went to leave it would not start! I figured that it was the battery again, and tried to jump it with my truck, but it would not start, so I sent my wife home with my truck to get my commercial charger, and the battery was low on water again, so I topped it up again, put the charger on it, and let it run the rest of the day (5 hrs) still would not start.

Saturday morning at 6am I put the charger back on it, and left to do some more work, when I got back around noon, it still would not work! I noticed that the battery was bubbling up dark brown - blackish guck.

At times when the charger was on, the seats would not work, nor the door locks would not work with either the remote or the key (the key would only manually lock the drivers door, not the others)

I also should add that my wife drives very infrequently, maybe 4 - 5,000 mi per YEAR! it sometimes sits for 2 -3 weeks at a time. It now has a little less than 87,000 mi on it.

I called a friend of mine Fran, who has been working on Volvos for over 20 years, and has his own shop in Plainfield, NH, and talked to him, he said just get over it and buy a new battery, and you should be fine, so I did, but I was not!

I then started fiddling around under the hood, as I could here relays clicking while trying to start, I had my wife try to start the car, and I could feel the solenoid on the starter click, I decided to cross the terminal on the starter to get it going so we could drive it home, When I crossed the terminals the starter motor spun but the solenoid did not kick in, so I had my wife hold the key in the start position, and it then started with both of us doing our part! It now is starting fine, I called my friend Fran, and he said that there is a small wire that goes to the starter that some times gets corroded, or maybe loose, that I still need to check, but now it is starting fine, but the real problem now, is the reason I'm writing.

I said all of that, as it seems probably that something that I did over the last few day, is linked to my "current problem"

Now I have no controls working below the stereo! The:
Air recirculation
AC
Fan
Air outlet control (little diagram of person)
Defroster(s)
Heated seats
Rear headrest
Truck lock
All don't work, neither do the dash lights for these come on! I do have power at the power outlet though. Everything inside of the "blue line" does not work.

(IMG:http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s220/ShawnTVT/CyndisS60.jpg)

I have checked all of the fuses, under the hood, in the side of the dash, in the side of the truck, and none of them are blown! I checked them with a meter!

My friend has never heard of this before. What is going on?

Thanks for bearing with my long “story” I hope somebody can help,

Shawn

When you jump started it and charged it did you do the jumping from in the engine or from the battery? If you did it directly off the battery it can damage a lot! Nothing should be connected to the battery in these cars directly, it should all be done from the engine.

Try disconnecting both battery terminals and connecting the two cables (positive and nagtive to the battery) together for around 5 seconds then leaving the car for about 30 minutes and connecting them together again then reconnecting the battery. Sometimes works, if not it may be a new climate control module :( Hope it works for you.

Sorry for the long wait, (I got busy with other things!)

I first tried to jump it from under the hood, but . . . then put the charger on the battery!

I'll go out and try it now . . .

Thanks,

Shawn

Well . . . I went out and disconected the battery, and then held the two cable ends together for 5 sec, waited 30 min, put the cable ends together again, hooked them back up, and still doesn't work. I then disconected the battery, held the two cable ends together, then left it set for 5 days, put the cable ends together for 5 sec, hooked them back to the battery, still doesn't work!

What is envolved with changing this climate control module? Is that the part in the car that is outlined in blue in my picture? How much $ do you think to replace myself? Dealer?

Thanks - Shawn

Hey, Well you can TRY and buy a second hand one thats from a very similar car to yours (I.e. Year, Model, Engine etc) but there's no guarantees that will work as they are each coded to a specific car by VIN but it works sometimes and if you can find one cheap it would be well worth the try. The actual installation is quite easy:

1. Dissconnect battery, leave car for 5 minutes
2. remove gearbox gaiter (Just the plastic and leather thing around the changer) just pull it up ward.

3. Remove the two screws under the climate control module (CCM)
4. This is tricky, pull the CCM out from the bottom, but dont do what I did and pull it over the lip or you will never get it out lol, then while its at that angle you need to put a hell of a lot of force behind it pulling it to detach two catches at the top, they will probably snap but the official fix is to use selotape to put them back lol!

5. dissonnect cable and put the new one in, I would leave it all out (dont re-sscrew etc) and reconnect the battery and see if it worked, if it did go and discconnect the battery again, just to be safe, and re-secure it and job done :) if not put the old one back and go to the dealer :(

There's a company called bba reman ( http://www.bba-reman.com ) that might be able to fix this, its usually a voltage regulator thats blown or capacitors, and they will save you the cash.

From the dealer, here in the UK you would be looking at over £1000 but this is Rip Off Britain lol, Labour is around £90 per hour here which is ridiculous.

To be honest, I would take it to the dealer and see if they can reload the software first and see what their diagnostic is. You can do a quick one yourseld, start the engine, hold the read button at the end of the indicator and while holding it click the fog light button twice and in the display it will cycle through all trouble codes (DTCs) there will be a lot, dont worry lol. See what it says for CCM,

Best of Luck :)

Under CCM it just said "Not Checked" others it said "Checking" so I assume that it can't check it . . .

I guess I got to bite the bullet and go visit my nearest dealer 80 mi away!

Shawn

Ok, so here is what I did . . . Sorry for the long delay . . . but I did mention in the 1st post that this car wasn't driven much! Saves on gas if it is broke too!

I ordered another ccm from Erie VO-VO Inc they are in Whitesboro, NY 888-865-8613 they sent me one that was not broke! (They are "Automotive Recyclers") It was $210 + $15 for shipping, Take yours out and have it in your hand when you call them . . . I put it in myself, but a word of caution from my friend, Unhook the battery 1st, or your airbag light may come on and only a dealer can reset it for you! I had to switch out the rear head restraint and valet trunk lock switches, as the "new" one just had blanks, but I just pried it apart, and swapped them out! Everything works great now!

I don't understand why hooking power to the battery should cause this problem . . . but hooking up front doesn't? same amount of power, hooked together with a cable . . . but I won't do that again!

Shawn

Great that it all works again :) I'm not sure why it does that? I know when you do it from the front there's a fuse so you don't over current/volt or something or other.

Your pretty lucky the new CCM works, they're coded to the car they're in so its pretty hard to find one to work in another car, they have to be pretty similar cars. Anyway, good to hear it all works :)