240 88 auto estate-me 130kg + 80 kg cargo, no extra air resistance, brakes good, free up ok, 185R14 tyres at 32lbs/sq in. City driving-mild hills-consistent 20mpg-rock solid. I think it's too low. plugs clean, slight slow cyclic shake at idle, sometimes hard to start hot-seems to flood after switch off. New fuel regulator didn't fix that-3 mths ago. Fitted Pro-Max Power/Economy modifier to air intake temp sensor. Set on economy-does produce more power than as OEM, can restore it. Mileage unchanged device connected/bypassed, as I recall. I'm disgruntled when I see others with 28mpg. Ideas Pls?

What temperature of thermostat are you using and you might want to check the ECT Engine Coolant Temp Sensor for the fuel and ignition ECU's You have LH Jetronic fuel injection right ?

LH JETRONIC 2.2 the book says-she could do with some other work. dry flakey soot in exhaust pipe==rich as..... I'll check the temp sensors tomorrow to see how accurate they are. motor runs 1/3 to 1/2 up the temp gauge, but has got hotter when towing. Often use 92RON fuel @ $1.497/L v 98RON@$1.623/L- water content unknown-that doesn't help. We don't have ethanol blends - yet, I guess that's out too. Yep, I thought the ECU might be bad too-but no-one bench tests these here to compare them, it's buy it, try it, too bad -it's yours now! attitude of the local sources A used one is prob no lasting improvement and N.O.S. isn't either. I'm sorely tempted to go back to CIS-it worked well enough, & I CAN keep fixing it!!!!! Is 1623/1497 < or > 28/20? if the money is smaller than the fuel then it's cheaper to buy the cheap fuel, and vice versa, assuming it's only the fuel causing the worry. There are other costs, but they can be ignored for a while. Our city is not highly polluted, & my mileage very modest, so I don't consider my excess contributions significant. Much of my running is short haul & stop-start at low speeds <=60kph-barely enough to heat up the sump properly. BUT THERE ISN'T/WASN'T A BETTER ALTERNATIVE IN MY PRICE RANGE THAT WOULD MEET THE CRITERIA I HAVE TO LIVE WITH. Life would be extremely difficult to maintain my usual responsibilities without a car & it would be almost empty. I wouldn't be able to do very much at all. Instead of being an asset to the community, I'd become a great burden. That time will come soon enough, but whilst I can serve, I will. I can't walk far, or cycle, and my m'bike isn't always practical. It is, so-far, cheaper & safer to own them than use taxi's or hire a car every few days/weeks. Public transport would take too much time to get anything done, due to it being grossly inadequate to my usual purposes and limitations, tho' occasionally it does a reasonable job of moving me about.

I get about ~25 MPG with mostly highway driving, the tires inflated to the maximum. People have reported decent mileage increase by switching to full synthetic ATF.

but 25 mpg in USA is 31.25 in Oz [ie when we used to have gallons they were Imp and not US]

so it is worse than it looks at 20 mpg

my old CIS volvo is a 6 cyl and I am getting about 21 mpg, and that is highway at 80 kph, so rather horrible, but I would expect better than 20 with 4 cyl

mine also has huge bumpers that got "banned" from 1977 onwards as America said it would add 17.5% to fuel if fitted to all cars [then they started to make huge SUVs - go figure]

have thought of removing them

my best mileage is when I go to town with my neighbour in his car

do your have an A/C?

mine stopped working 2 years back and when I recently removed it I found [apart from the weight] that even though clutch disengaged it had seized up and was creating quite a resistance, so fuel went from about 17 to 21 and far more power

bumpers yes
a/c yes-not in use-bearing untested-tks for idea. Not normally turning, tho' can be engaged, so Will see how hot it gets at idle-that will show excess drag. belts appear not to be suffering from heat/load.

inj cleaner used abt 2 mths ago, no obvious difference

motor smooths out after 2K rpm-the miss/? is prob the biggest reason-if I knew why it happened I'd be a long way to fixing it.
No-one here does benchtop comparisons to define a faulty ECU/ign unit. if my pc could have diagnostics cheaply plugged in I'd be very happy, but I doubt it's affordable for home owner useage, and a blank cheque for factory techs is not possible. I'd be abt right by guessing $125-/hr. They may be worth it, but I'm not that rich to let them spend unlimited time fiddling about and plugging in $$$ new parts that I can no longer then control. I doubt they have diagnostic parts which don't have to be paid for once plugged in unless they're essential permanent replacements.
Perhaps diagnostics are affordably hireable by post, from a club or customer- minded agent, but I have no info. There's no lit troubles indicator in dash.