I have a 5 speed manual 850 GLT which I bought used on 01/08. The a/c was blowing warm air when compressor was on.
I recharged it yesterday with a 12oz. can of R134a and the air cooled a bit and now today the compressor is not engaging...I cant hear the clicking sound when a/c is on.

Did I ruin my compressor ?It was engaing before and a few hours after recharge.

I was looking at the manual and got confused if I have the ECC or the manual a/c,how can i tell?

The car run great, powerful engine no leaks and fun to drive/shift but I need the a/c , NJ is getting hot and humid!
Please advice me.

Thanks.

For the ECC, what makes it complicated is that there are added wiring and sensors at the top of your head (inside the roof liner) to detect automatically the 'climate' that you've set.

But answering your Q, the ECC would have 'NUMBERS' instead of bars going around the airconditioning dial. Just take a look at your aircond dial circle and see if its aircond numbers or are they just red bars?

As for your compressor, you can get your mechanic to bypass the airconditioning switch and see if that works.

The dual airconditioning dials have Numbers, so I guess I have ECC.

Is the airconditioning switch the one on top of the a/c pipe near the firewall on the passenger side?
I checked the compressor fuse and is not blown, also there seem to be a fuse casing on the side of the a/c compressor,do i need to check that to?

* I havent been to any volvo mechanic since I have only had the car for 3 months now and no problem at all*

I tested the a/c compressor today as explained by one thread I read here. With a/c on I pressed the clutch with a bloom stick and the clutch engaged and a/c was ice cold but if I switch the car off the compressor wont engage again.
Also when I short circuit the by-pass switch the cluth is moving slightly inward,does this mean the gap is too wide.
Am confused what should I do now?

Try this - up near the firewall on the AC piping is the low pressure sensor switch. Turn on the car and the AC settings on full. Unhook the connector (press wire loop in) and then jumper the two leads with a paperclip. If the compressor kicks in, then you know its good. After that I'd check the resistance of the leads on the pressure sensor itself. Beyond that, I'd be thinking you have an AC computer issue. There is also a high pressure switch. If you overcharged the system (ie say more than 45-50 PSI) then you may be getting a cut out there or that switch may be bad as well.

Sounds (I mean, READS) like a good advice.

:)

It is possible you haven't injected enough refrigerant into the A/C system and the low pressure switch situated up on the firewall close to the evaporator hasn't operated, keeping the compressor from engaging. This switch operates by switching the compressor 'on' if the pressure is 3.1 Kg/cm2 and switches the compressor 'off' when the pressure drops to 1.7 Kg/cm2.


I don't think so.


Others have answered this.

Also your compressor clutch may need re-shimming. You can find advice on how to do this by searching this forum.

If the ECC is playing up then it really needs a person with an adequate level of knowledge to troubleshoot their way through this sophisticated system. A novice can do terminal damage to the ECC without even realising it.

I pressure washed my engine and the check engine light came on. I had the codes read and got this:

1-0-2 MAF

3-0-4 the 4th cylinder is misfiring


How do I clear the codes??

96' manual transmission 850 with OBD II

Aaaahhhh, Doooooooooooooooooddd!
HEHEHEH...

First of all, dont use the pressure washer on the top half part of the engine. You can pressure wash all the dirt away from the bottom-half.

Next, MAF sensor.
You MAY have screwed it up.
But try this, take it out, and clean the sensor strip inside the sensor with an aerosol-type contact cleaner. (Take a look at IPD to have an idea what its like). Leave it to dry at room temp and in a closed area.
I hope that should do the trick.
And DONT TOUCH THE MAF SENSOR STRIP, please. You'll runi it for good that way.
:)


Second, water has find its way into the plugs well. Take out the plug cables. ONLY the cables. And siphon out the water from the plugs well.

Dude, BOTH things, i have also experienced first hand, the first week i got mine many years back. Hope yours is OK now.

Cheers, and dont worry.
:)

Thanks, I disconnected the battery and the check engine light is gone! The car runs great now but I will check for any water in the plug. Its has been hot here and all the driving I have done so far may have caused the water to dry out.

What is the right size for the tool to unscrew the plug cover?

There is no mileage sticker for last timing belt change,is it advisable to remove the timing belt cover and do visual inspection of the belt first before I get it done?

Let's hope so.
:)




I dont remember. Its Torx-type. Maybe T25? T27?





Hmmmm, i normally tell my friends to change it the minute they buy it used, UNLESS there is evidence of it being changed before. No point taking the chances.

when in doubt, whip it out, or in this case, remove and replace. and get your heads out of the gutter. only the greek lives in the gutters. :grin:

Please note that this is a completely different topic and can be quite annoying for forumists following a particular thread so, next time, please stick to the one topic at a time - as it is far easier to address an issue under it's correct listing.

I agree with VolGrrr...