I could not find an similar post on a 240 engine quitting after running on a bumpy road so, here it is:
after a 95 mile trip back from Saddleback ski resort in Maine, my 87 240 DL wagon (200k+ miles) just quit after about a mile driving down an extremely rough back road only 3 miles from my house. My question for all yall is, what kind of something from a bumpy ride could kill a volvo engine such that it won't start again??

Here is what I have ruled out:

-Fuel is reaching the fuel rail with no leaks, so the fuel lines are good.
-The engine turns over just fine, and sometimes runs for a second, then quits, so battery and starter are fine.
-Timing belt is intact and tight
-all immediately visible ignition wires, other wires, hoses etc are intact and attached.

any suggestions would help immensely, otherwise I'll be taking the ignition system apart piece by piece and cleaning it this saturday. If you know of another post dealing with something like this, please direct me to it!

THANKS!

--wagnerinmaine--

id probably check the timing belt to make sure it didnt skip a tooth also the dizzy make sure it didnt come loose and maybe turn a bit. also check the plug wires and the coil.

Is it cranking over, if so, does it have spark? BTW clean the fuse and fuseholder in the single wire near the front of Left suspension tower.It's a black rectangular case from which the top pulls off after you've released the catch. The fuse and holder may be corroded-clean thoroughly, use a copper blade type fuse or brass one in preference to an aluminium one. If unit bad, replace it, do NOT run without a proper fuse here! Final clean: wash it down with methylated spirits to remove contaminants (from your hands), dry with clean tissue/toilet paper, then re-seal as a dry unit without touching metal parts-motor may run with just that done. WARNING: Metho has low flash point, and burns with invisible flame-no naked lights/sparks or fires please! Do NOT use Turpentine or vodka etc as substitute, use clean metho as specified.

I would bet its electrical. Check all your fuses.

Motor turns over, will check if there is spark when I get a chance. All fuses good and new, even in-line blade fuse near battery.

How would I be able to tell if the timing belt had skipped a tooth? It is at the proper tension and looks new, no wear.

I've been told that I should check three different grounding wires, one off the valve cover, one behind the ps pump/under distributor, and one sort of near the driver's side strut tower. Could one of these shut the engine off?

I'll have some time tomorrow to see what comes up. Until then, I will spend some quality time with my Haynes manual....

Earths are important, need to be to engine and chassis, and perhaps several of them. Check battery voltage, MUST be at least 11.5V or no go! Start checking fuel system if no fuel smell on cranking. Common probs are: bad relays, blocked filters, bad hoses between pumps at/in tank, bad plenumb chamber adjacent second pump-this damps out pressure variations with a flexible wall. The far side of the wall has a drain leading back to the tank-test there for fuel to prove it bad. Pump failures not unknown either. All above are likely at your vehicle age/mileage.

i'm sure you're thinking something was knocked loose. may also be coincidental. so check for spark, check fuel pressure. check all fuses, including main fuse near battery. this is a blade type fuse.
check the two ground connections for the injectors at the intake manifold. check the fuel pump relay connection, which is near the ecu behind a kick panel on passenger side. goodluck

Thanks for the suggestions from all who replied. They were helpful in narrowing down what could be the problem. I got it running again tonight after replacing the in-line fuse near the battery (even though the existing fuse looked fine), tracking down and replacing a stray green wire near the driver's side shock tower, and replacing the PCV valve and hoses. Some combination of those things brought her back to life this time. Somehow it makes me feel like this dancing banana: :banana:

Thanks!

Re-fuse you replaced:- hold up to light to check for cracking, *always* test for continuity with a meter or test light/buzzer and power source. Corrosion and cracking can be hard to see, but if no continuity-you know it's u/s immediately, and after checking its value, toss it out! I've had too many fuses which weren't connected thru' when made to be fooled for long, pity I didn't suggest it to you, as it's something I do by default.