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> Driver's Side Heating Duct-proper Placement?, Floor Heating Duct Placement
jonvictor
post Feb 19 2008, 06:23 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 2
Joined: 19-February 08
Member No.: 38,635
Status: Offline
Location: Ontario, Canada
Drives: 1990 Volvo 240dr (sedan)



Hi, i recently bought a 1990 240dl just over a month ago, my first car, what an awesome car I must say :thumbsup:

For the most part the owners kept the car in great shape, and it runs great, my only simple problem right now is the frigid cold is freezing my feet:(, because the heating duct facing the floor below the steering wheel/above the gas/break pedals, was taken out and improperly put back, so the heat is not flowing through it to the ground.

The last owners sloppily threw it back, and now i dont know which way its supposed to go back it. I am assuming the oval-shaped end is the 1 which goes through the carpeting and faces the floor-correct me if I am wrong- but how does the other end(rounded part) go in, or attach to the heating duct valve opening properly (the vavle duct opens and closes properly and the heat stills flows through to that point properly I checked).

So does the rounded end of the pipe/duct-that points to the floor and flows the heat from the heating unit-fit into the heating unit circle opening where the valve opens for the heat to flow through, or does the rounded end of the pipe fit around it, maybe there is a connector, or latch type of plastic piece missing?

Sorry for the lengthy description of my problem, but I thought the long explanation was needed since I lack the proper/technical terms of the pieces and hardware.

I would really appreciate ANY help, input, or answers. Thanks for reading. :liebe011:
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mattylu
post Mar 12 2008, 08:22 PM
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Joined: 11-March 08
Member No.: 39,570
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Location: Denver, Colo. USA
Drives: '84 244 GL converted from diesel, 86 740 GLE wagon



hi,
just replaced my blower on a 84 244 gl, so the ducts came out to give room.
i had a hard time getting the piece you are describing back together.
you are right, the oval part goes through the carpet and the round part goes to the other round part coming from the heat duct.
im not sure ours are the same, but one fits inside the other, and it was stapled to hold it together on mine.
but i had to rip out the staples to remove it, so...
i had to bend in the edges of the one that fits into the other with some needle nose pliers and really muscle it as i turned them, and pop, it went together.
hope that helps.
matty
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jonvictor
post Mar 12 2008, 09:59 PM
Post #3


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Group: Members
Posts: 2
Joined: 19-February 08
Member No.: 38,635
Status: Offline
Location: Ontario, Canada
Drives: 1990 Volvo 240dr (sedan)



Yeh, great, i realized (quick witted me*sarcasm*) after i removed my glovebox, and saw that floor pointing heating tube on right front passenger side hadnt been removed, that it fits inside the heating vent and is sealed with staples. I ought to get to that, i gotta find some better pliers, that was the first thing i tried b4 i even posted a thread, didnt work tho, guess i gotta 'muscle' it more and shove it in there lol, anyways thanks alot for the description, and great reply, really appreciate it.

BTW, if u dont mind me asking (i believe my blower heater is going as well), how much was the part, and did u get aftermarket piece, web ordered or?

Thanks alot again :lol:
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mattylu
post Mar 16 2008, 12:42 PM
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Posts: 35
Joined: 11-March 08
Member No.: 39,570
Status: Offline
Location: Denver, Colo. USA
Drives: '84 244 GL converted from diesel, 86 740 GLE wagon



first, what makes you think that the blower is going?
you can test it easily by pulling the center console and finding the red wire that goes to the motor and connects to the switch wires and applying 12v.
i just use the battery in the car with jumpers, there are probably better ways but it works.
if it spins nicely, then it isnt the motor most likely.
maybe its a dirty switch or the resistor.
if it is the resistor, that is mounted inside with the motor so you want to get a new motor while your in there.


i got mine here, $57
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BLOWER-...sspagenameZWDVW

it comes with new resitor and switch.
on mine i had to mod the old motor mount inside the car with a drill and grinding bit.

use the instructions on cleanflametrap.com
its the only way to go.
thanks again to this guy for providing the best instructions and pictures ive seen for a job like this!!

follow it precisely and LABEL EVERYTHING AND TAKE NOTES.
it really helps when you are putting it back together.
especially note all the instrument cluster wires and cables, and dont have the neg battery connected while working on all that...

it is a big project but you can do it.
i didnt take out the front seat as he did and i was fine.
i didnt take apart the floor/defrost/recycle tubing either.
you are going to need to extend the ground on the motor most likely, so do it first.
i only had a couple of inches to work with when it was already installed and wished i did it first.
im not sure if you have to completely remove the driver side vent ducting, as that was a real pain to get back in there with all the wires and stuff.

take your time and becareful with plastic peices and such so they dont break.
wait for nice weather as you will be out there a long time in the car and on the ground reaching in from both sides.
prepare to loose some skin on your knuckles and arms maybe...

i cant stress it enough to label every screw and wire, you think it will be easy to figure out but almost every screw is specific to where it goes, and the wires well thats obvious, but they all look the same when you step away for a day or two.
dont move the car with the speedo disconnected as it will make it a lot harder to get back in, i made that mistake.

like someone said, its a ZEN exercise in patience and restraint, ITS NOT EASY!

good luck and if you have any questions at all please ask.
its still fresh in my mind...( i actually think i will never forget it!)
mattylu ^^)
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