I need help ASAP!! my wife drove the 960 to church this morning, after she got home we decided to go out shopping. I put the ignition key in but it will not turn!! Has anyone had this to happen to there 960 before? I tryed to blow out the tumbler opening with caned air still no good.. Thanks for your help..

Make sure there is no tension on the steering wheel? If the wheel has some tension, it can cause the key to become difficult to turn, also you could snap the key too. If that is not the case, then try another key if you have one. The keys wear faster than the lock mechanism.

I have read about a few, not many really, where the lock mechanism fails. That part is fastened to the steering column with harden steel and needs to be drilled off the column, quality drill bits are required as are arms as strong as steel to keep the pressure on the drill.

But usually there is some turning tension on the steering wheel making the key hard to turn.

DanR '094 964 334,000 miles (100,000 on the new engine)

Thanks for the info danr960. I have tryed to steering wheel and the shifter everthing I can think of to no end.. It has never givin us any trouble to this point thats what makes it so strange..

i agree with danr960. it would seem unlikely to be the locking mechanism.

I have a 92 960 sitting disabled right now, too. I have tried 3 keys, the steering and transmission possibilities, the lock is jammed.

Anyone know how to get the tumbler out if you CANT turn it to the #1 position? Or does anyone know what I can use to drill through the theft prevetion hardened keyhole?

I got it fixed finally after I called Volvo..
I contacted Volvo and they stated that the complete steering column must be removed and it is alot of work ( not for A novice person).. I was told to try this to see if it would free up the jam. They told me to remove the cover over the steering column and insert a paper clip into the hole in the top of the ignition cylinder and with the key inserted use a pair of plyers to turn the key.. He said this would free up the jam. It did work but the key is still hard to turn but I can start the car and still lock the steering wheel.. Also be careful not to break off the key..

I hope this might help someone else with the same Issue..

Crazytrain, we've just had this problem today! 1992 960 3.024v auto.

I finally decided today to try and have a look at the PNP switch which had been causing the transmisison to sometimes flash all warning lights.

I started the car fine, put it on the drive and switched it off whilst I lined the ramps up.

Then, as if it knew it was about to undergo surgery, the key just will not turn in the ignition.

Fiddled about for hours, even got my mum to drive over with all the spare keys and tried them all. Tried WD40 in there, there is no tension on the wheels as I also by then gave up with the ramps and jacked it up - front wheels hanging.

It has sometimes been a bit sticky but usually with wiggling the steering it'll turn fine.

Unfortunately I'm stuck with both front windows down so cant even do them up again and it started raining! :o

How did you solve the problem long term?

I couldnt get the cover off as it needs special security star bits so I'll try and get some tomorrow so I can try the paper clip technique.

So annoying!!! Just glad it didnt strand us somewhere.

Still, got the PNP switch out the trans OK in the end, and without reomving exhaust and auto cooler pipes. :o

Astockley, I used A pair of pliers to help me turn the key, this broke loose the jam and let me turn the key. Then we twisted the key 10 to 20 times to make sure the jam was as free as it could be, then we used compressed air to blow the ignition out.. it is A scary thin to do cause the key could twist or brake but its the only way Volvo could tell me to free it up with out towing the car to them and paying $400.00 for the to install a new switch.. Keep me posted on how this works for you..

happened in my 740. I am no car theif but i removed (with a screwdriver) the coloumn cover and just removed the ignition switch ... the steering lock is bust anyway ... though there was a torx screw head on the barrel itself, which looked as if you took it out and its partner you could remove the barrel. Obviously i dont recomend that as car is extremely easy to steal then ... i would think its a new barrel if its really hard to turn.

Matt

well I got the upper and lower cover off now I bought the security type torx star bits, and had success to a point in that then removing the back side of the ignition switch (the actual electrical switch part) just needed a flad blade screwdriver to remove 2 screws and this came off so that I could use a screw driver in it to turn the ignition on and put the windows up! (and I could start it!) this means starting the car without a key is ridiculously easy and no damage caused, and if you busted the steering lock you'd be away!

Seems strange this is so easy when it is then sooo hard to deal with the actual lock barrel and steering lock!

Spent all evening trying to get the key to turn, with no luck.

My feeling is that it isnt the key barrel, I can sort of feel this move a slight bit with the key in properly. It seems to be that however this actuated the steering lock to unlock it has failed or jammed. The steering wheel will move slightly left and right as usual and every so often when really turning it leftand right quite forcefully it will skip 1/16 of a turn and then lock again. But still the key wont turn!

I dont know what to destroy to solve the problem. If I force the steering lock and break it, the key may still not turn.

If I force the key and it snaps or I bust the barrel I dont see how I can get the barrel out to replace it?

I go the hardened anti-drill part out easy enough by removing the circlip holding it in (after prising off the chromed surround). But that's as far as i've got now and I'm really stuck.

There is some kind of panel looking up from underneath. I'm thinking of taking an angle grinder to one side of it so I can then get a chisel in and try to prise it out to get at whatever is in there - mechanism?

I dont really care if the steering lock doesnt work afterwards but I dont want to break it if I dont have to - and we can't afford to spend much money on this car.

Anyone got any other ideas?

I lost my key for the petrol locking cap,went to Volvo and was told they could get it off but did,nt know how long it would take as some are fairly easy and some hard.The labour charge would be £80 ( $160) per hour and £25 for a new cap.
Went to a local mechanic who hammered a flat bladed screwdriver into the key hole and with some molegrips on the end for leverage got the cap off in about 10 seconds...The trick is to destroy the tumblers in the lock............. Just an idea Astockley

OK well for the benefit of anyone else with this problem now or in the future, I solved it! As it wasnt the column lock, it was the barrel. And here's how without causing any lasting damage (although I did but didnt need to!):

This is for if the key wont turn in the ignition if the ignition barrel is worn or damaged

Having removed the steering column cover by removing the 6 hex-screws from underneath (some have security bits so you need those type - Halfords do a good all round bit set for a tenner) then also loosen the column tilt lever and pul this out (it is held in by a grub screw that tightens against the shaft).

Next undo the 2 screws holding in the ignition switch with a flat blade screwdriver.

You will see the nib of the end of the ignition barrel extension bar thing sticking out. Normally, if you could turn the key, you would turn to position 1 (or 2?) and insert a pin or something into the little hole on top of the ignition barrel housing to release the clip holding it in, and then lightly tap the nib of the barrel bar to push the barrel out and withdraw it.

In my case, I couldnt do this - so I used brute force! I hammered not too heavily but repeatedly the nib sticking out on left hand side of column) which eventually sheered off the fairly basic clip/tab internally, then as this moved and became flush with the column/barrel housing, i used a punch of suitable size with the hammer to finish off the job - and out came the damaged and broken barrel.

A new barrel supplied with 3 keys from Volvo was £44 plus VAT, which I thought was very reasonable! Yes you will now need 2 keys as the door locks will use the old one, but this is cheaper. As getting a new barrel coded takes longer and costs more, plus no doubt the old keys are worn and may have caused the problem in the first place in our case. And each new key coded to the barrel is £50 plus VAT!

So first make sure the hammered extension shaft end isnt damaged - mine was and wouldnt then firt into the slot in the ignition switch. So use a small grinder like a dremmel to take the turned-over edges off and shape it back to how it should be.

Then, new key in new barrel, turn to pos 1 so the retaining tab can held in, and slide assembly into column. Hey presto all done!

Put ignition switch back on, replace covers etc, and all fixed for just over £50!

Wish I'd done that forst though as I tried drilling and chisseling into the ignition swich housing/lock from below and there's no chance - it's build like a brick **** house! So unfortunately I have caused unnecessary damage which you can avoid, but I never got into it that way so other than what it now looks like from underneath, with the column cover back on no one will ever know and everything now works perfectly, including the column steering lock!

As an aside, I also fitted the replacement scantech auto PNP switch which cost about £55 incl postage - at first I thought it hadnt worked as had same error and lights flicking on selector etc. But I think the fault code takes a while to clear, as after switching ignition on and off a few times, it cleared and had been absolutely fine since and te reversing lights now work again! So many more miles left in the old girl now........