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> Handbrake Not Working?!?, Brake pedal works ok, but not handbrake.
CRKrogh
post Dec 28 2007, 12:09 PM
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Hi, all!
I've got a 1988 Volvo 480Turbo being due for the danish version of MOT. When I got to the brakes, I ran into a problem. Anybody have a clue what I should be looking for here? :blink: When I push the brake pedal down, the pads squeeze together just fine, but when I pull the handbrake (and also by activating the lever on the caliper), no response. The front brakes were a doddle, but the rear is really causing problems! With the pads removed, I tried resetting the brake piston with proper tools, but it seems pretty stuck, even though it seems to behave okay when using the brake pedal.
So far, I got the front brakes worked out and took a long hard look at the left rear - I have not touched the right one yet, as I am not sure what to look for.
Please do help a hapless dane along! Best rgds.
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grendel1960
post Dec 28 2007, 04:25 PM
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First does the handbrake cable work OK, it may need lubricating, then the handbrake mechanism itself is a pain its fiddley and just plain difficult, there are a couple of things to remember, everything must be really easy and smooth, if it is too still the little spring finger cannot tighten the adjustor automatically (I have the 440, but believe they are the same) this is for the drum brakes, if you have the discs on the rear, its been a while and I cant remember how the handbrake works on these.
anyway - good luck with getting the brakes sorted.
grendel
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grendel1960
post Dec 28 2007, 04:47 PM
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From memory there is a plug like part you remove to get to an allen key or screwdriver slot, which adjusts the handbrake on the rear with discs, I am not certain how the mechanism works though.
Grendel
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CRKrogh
post Dec 29 2007, 04:03 AM
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Hi, Grendel.
Thank's for returning on my question. My 480 does indeed have discs in the rear too. When I look at the caliper there is the brake fluid inlet, the bleed valve and then an extra hole being plugged with a screw. This extra hole was dry when I removed the screw.
The handbrake cable has a minor bend, but doesn't seem to be affected by it. When activated, it retracts and extends as I would expect. Also, the actuator lever on the caliper itself can be operated by hand (of course to a smalle extent9, but this doesn't seem to activate the brakes at all.
Another thing, I don't understand, is the "stuck" piston - it feels really solid when I try to push it back to make room for the new brake pads (actually, I am not able to push it back at all), but as I said above, the brakes work fine when I push the pedal down?!?
Hope this brings it a little closer?
Best rgds.
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grendel1960
post Dec 29 2007, 04:43 AM
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Your saying that brings back a memory of having to back off the screw inside the plugged hole to retract the pistons, I just cant remember what I had to do since my last 2 440's had drum bralkes and it must be at least 5 or 6 years since I replaced the brakes on a rear disc version.
Ok this part from my haynes manual.

Insert a screwdriver between the outer brake pad and the hole in the caliper, and leveroutwards to maintain pressure on the piston. Using an allen key inserted throiiugh the plug hole in the caliper turn the automatic adjuster anti-clockwise until no more resistance is felt. This action will return the automatic adjuster to its original position. to allow for new pads to be inserted. Do not attempt to unscrew the adjuster more than this as damage may be caused.

andUsing the allen key inserted through the special hole in the caliper, turn the automatic adjustor clockwise until resistance is felt, then turn the adjuster anti clockwise until the brake disc can be rotated freely - refit the rubber plug

then it mentions adjusting the handbrake cable to get the handbrake operation correct.

Hope that gives some insight into how the automatic adjustor works.
Grendel
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CRKrogh
post Dec 29 2007, 05:33 AM
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Hi!
That was quick! Super, that looks like what I need. I will try it out this afternoon and keep you posted on the results.
Best rgds.
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zoomy
post Mar 3 2008, 04:02 PM
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If you need to reset your handbrakes ,jack the rear end up so that the wheels are free ,now there is a round plug your have to remove and insert a allen wrench in the hole and turn it back in until some resistence is felt and the wheel will not turn ,now grab the wheel and loosen the allen screw in the other way until the wheel turns freely ,all done ,do the same on the other side ,both side take about 10 15 min to do :amen: :amen:
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