I need some advise, At Bridgewater Volvo (NJ) I just had a new transmission put in, new shocks in the front, serpentine belt, 90,000 mile service, etc... I spent around 5500 dollars. One month after paying all that money, I now got this new problem which I supposedly fixed 10 months ago @Olsteen Volvo ,Jacksonville (Fl) where they changed o ring kit, chemical gasket, filter insert, plain gasket, cstrl blend, sealing ring and I think that is it according to the work order. What can it be, when I called Montclair Volve (NJ), he said a engine flush might do it and also they will honor my receit from Florida as far as the parts. Should I try a engine flush? Should I get the same parts replaced and pay the per hour rate? Does anyone know what might fix this problem? The man at Montclair Volvo said it could be a bunch of things and very costly, and perhaps need a new engine. The car isin't even worth what I paid a month ago plus a new engine...........

Is there anything else wrong with the car? Is that the only message that comes up?

I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A 2000 S80 2.0 T I HAVE CHANGED THE OIL AND FLUSHED THE ENGINE AND HAVE THE SAME WARNING COMING UP THE LIGHT APPEARS TO COME ON WHEN YOU STOP DRIVING BUT FIND IF PUT INTO NEUTRAL IT MAY GO OUT YOU CAN REV THE ENGINE AND LET IDLE AGAIN AND IT WILL NOT COME BACK ON EVEN IF YOU PUT IT BACK IN GEAR.I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT SEALS AND THINGS EXACTLY YOU HAD REPLACED. I ALSO FITED AN OIL GAUGE IN TO TEST THE PRESSURE IT WOULD BE ABOUT 6 PSI AT IDLE BUT THE SWITCH IS SET TO OPERATE AT .4 -.6 BAR SO IT IS REALY BORDER LINE BUT HAS A GOOD 50 PSI AT REVS ANY MORE INFO

There is o-rings between the oil pan and the engine that go bad.Also the o-ring for the oil pick up tube in the engine.If you buy the kit from the dealer it will give you all the o-rings you need.If your car is non turbo you will have extra.It will take you a while if you do it your self.Also if you choose to do it make sure you get the special sealer for the oil pan.

I AM AMECHANIC SO THE JOB SHOULD NOT BE A PROBLEM
CAN I REMOVE THE OIL PAN WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN. I HAD THE CAMBELT OFF THE OTHER DAY TO REPLACE A CAM SEAL AND NOTICED THE OIL PUMP ON THE FRONT OF THE CRANK DO I NEED TO REMOVE THAT AS WELL OR IS IT ALL DONE FROM INSIDE THE SUMP

THANKS RALPH

It is all done from inside once you have the pan off.You might have to drop the subframe on the passenger side to allow the pan to slide out.I usually lift up on the engine on the pass. side and remove the lower engine mount.When you go back in it is good to have someone watch the o-rings when the pan is installed.

You will see what I mean when you get the pan out.

Ralph, I am interested how you got on removing the oil pan. I am in the middle of this job and finding it difficult. I have dropped the subframe but the power steering hydraulic line is in the way. I am hoping once that is moved it will come out. Any suggestions....?