Welp,

Though I'd fixed the girlfriend's 82' 244 DL volvo once and for all. Car had been running poorly, and there was always a smell of gas in the car when she'd fill up.
Finally one day, when driving it would just stall when you added any throttle. Wouldn't restart, or if it did, i'd idle for 10 to 30 seconds and stall.

First tried testing the injectors Two weren't spraying and just dribbling fuel. So I Replaced 2 injectors that were leaking, also did the fuel pressure regulator at the same time.

Well since then I started it up and ran a few times. Idle seemed irratic, I checked the wires to the injectors. They were in correct sequence. Checked to make sure the plug wires were in right sequence and on tightly. They were. Started pulling Vaccum lines and double checking the routing of them. I drove it, ran ok, but had absolutely no throttle response whatsoever. Started idling high. Shut it off and moved some vaccum lines around. Idled low. Changed some vaccum lines--Idled High. Shut it off again and changed things around. Car started up and idled at 900rpm and didn't seem to have any miss. I think I finally got the correct sequence.

Sweet.

Went out this morning, to start it up.

Not so good.

Its doing the same thing again where it starts up and runs for 30 seconds, then dies, then won't restart. The Idle air control valve makes a buzzing noise with the engine in the "acc" or "run" position. Should I assume its broken when doing this?

Now my cold start injector is leaking at the banjo fitting. I'm thinking of just plugging the line on the fuel rail and tossing it. Can I do this? I live in a fairly moderate climate (never gets super hot or super cold), or is this absolutely necessary to keep on for the Constant Idle System (this is LH-Jettronic-1, on a 82 model)?

I don't really want to throw any more money or parts at this thing, I just want to find the problem, instead of replacing ***, until it fixes.

I'm thinking the connectors for the throttle position sensor and idle control valve are the same so make sure they didn't accidentally get swapped - but a buzzing noise doesn't sound good. Look for one from the junkyard.

Before removing the line for the cold start valve I would unplug it (electrical) and make sure you are happy that way first.

Robert240:

There is no plug for the throttle position sensor. the Throttle body itself has no electrical plugs whatsoever. The only two plugs as far as i can tell on the air metering side are for the big Air Mass Sensor, and the Idle air control valve, which have completely differing plugs, so there's no way they could be put in the wrong spot.

Would you suggest I try replacing the Coolent Temp sensor first?

Sorry I was thinking of the throttle position sensor on my '86 which has a 3 connector plug.

Yes the temp sensor but if you have a volt meter it might be good to see what the O2 sensor is giving you for voltage.

It should have a throttle switch old version of throttle position sensor. I would keep the cold start valve or you could have trouble starting it when cold it don't have to be really cold to cause problems.

As far as I can tell there are two small vaccum ports on the bottom side of the throttle body, and one large one on the top side with that goes to the Idle Air control.

There was a thing that looked like a little button on the throttle blade itself, but it has no electrical connector itself.