And Warm / Hot water if it still looks dirty after that you can probably try some Carb Cleaner.

So its pretty touch and resilient? I just dont know how delicate it is. Also will I need to drain all of the fluid of will just a little come out?

It's a small metal (i suspect copper) piece of rod, dude. Dont worry, it's tough enough. The removing part is probably the tough one.

Expect some draining out of coolants, but nothing 1 or maybe 2 litres of water cant fix. Coolant will be spilled when you remove the TOP water hose. And also when you remove the ECT itself. But like i said, not all the 7.3 litres ...

You can try cleaning it as Ryan's method with warm water and all. But what worked for me is the LIGHT scraping it off with the small scraping knife.

ALL THE BEST!

If I can get the time I will try this monday but hopefully by thursday. I did disconnect the sensor underneath the coolant tank and it hasnt stalled since, but I have been keeping the heat up pretty high too. It hasnt stalled but once in 3 or 4 days. I plan to clean it then scrape it off. GreekMason and I have been talking about the possibility of me doing a transplant with an "r" engine. I got giddy. :banana:

well, technically, as long as we get you a turbo'ed engine and tranny in there, the R part is easy. injectors and the ecu,etc. the more pressing thing is the transplant. what are you studying in school? if i may ask.

Greek!

How come you didnt offer ME the blue injectors?
:(

Im going to start a degree in Criminal Justice. I am excited about it, I might minor in graphic design. I think I would rather get rid of the car and buy a t5 or an r. I was going to get about 5 grand but that fell through so I dunno if its gonna happen now. I stalled twice today btw. Tomorrow im gonna clean that part if I remembr I will take pics and write a short tutorial would that be helpful mods?

Bear, I like your fancy license plate frame. check out mine. :offtopic: I know, I also added some new pictures for both cars.

Criminal Justice..?!

Wow, dude. PLEASE remember that GreekMason is your FRIEND. No matter how many burnouts he performs in front of your house or in your neighbourhood, he is STILL your friend.
:)

So happy, i am SO FAR away here.
:haha:

Thanks!

I might have to change them soon. THe plastic plate has started to show a million inner-cracks. Ugh.

I love the metal-type, though but they cost like three time more than the present one, together with the life-time warranty that comes with it... (I AM, afterall thinking of keeping the T5 for Life! Hehe) Anyhow, will see if the metal one can be cut into shape to fit in the VOCM and VolvoForLife plates as well.


And yes, i saw the Volvo word and the BMW Logo for both your rides, and was just wondering, err, are they meant to have the dirty-look?
Sorry, dude. Just kidding.
:)


This post has been edited by ampangbear: Apr 17 2008, 09:00 PM

Fck u haha dirty look, I got a good comeback but I will not go there. Greek and I are speaking about things with my car.

I decided to go for a different plate type. THe one without the metal plate. It's still plastic, but i got them to cut the shape of the plate area, so it was big.

Will post photo soon.

I cleaned mine off with sandpaper lightly, I will hopefully be driving again soon. The bolt that covers the thermostat... well the top rung out of them so I am looking for new ones.

Oh, please DO, dude. By all means. I've had to deal and have seen buddies' torx screws that have screwed up that they had to to resort to chiselling a new either phillips head of them or flathead. And by then, leaks had developed, thanks to the hammer works.

In fact, use really NEW screws if you have the chance. I think they're less than a dollar each.

Hello again, cheeky donkeys!

I'm sorry I haven't been active in here for a looong time, but I haven't bothered doing car repairs in the cold. I've been practicing "Last steam engine train" on the guitar instead :) But, finally: Summer has started here in Norway and it's time to bring some swift justice and/or punishment to my cars stalling-problems :)

Xmeal: Yep, the car runs great when it's cold, oddly enough.
The only time I had problems with it in the winter was when driving on roads with REALLY bumpy snow (as the snow develops "teeth" after lorries and buses driving on it with chains, makes the car shake like crazy). When this happened I unplugged the fuelpump relay, pried of its cover and fiddled around with it a bit before plugging it back in. Hmmm... a clue? I'll find out soon enough.

About Ryans (wasn't it?) input regarding ignition:
A worn out coil might cause some really weird behavior, such as intermittent stalling problems like the ones discussed in this thread. "Aha! A faulty coil would also explain why the problem seems temperature-dependant!" you're thinking. Well so am I, so it's a good idea to check it. Also remember that the coil does not like idleing - it wears it out.

Anyways; summer is back and I can start messing with the car again.

Plan/course of action:
:: Check for spark at coil and/or sparkplugs when problem is present.
:: Measure voltage at fuel pump when problem is present and absent to compare behaviors. If anything seems wrong check and/or replace the famous 103 relay or even the pump itself.
:: Culprit or not; I'm changing the fuel filter. It doesn't cost much anyway.
:: Check vacuum hoses for leaks and cracks.
:: Replace Air Mass-Flow thingie (the one on the hose from the air filter box). It's not working at all. I can unplug it while the engine is running with no effect what so ever. Hmm... Impossible, you say? Apparently not. I'm hoping this might be the reason why my car is the slowest in town.
:: Check voltage at Camshaft Position Sensor when problem is absent and present (if doable, not quite sure).
:: That also goes for the fly-wheel position sensor (if possible, havent't taken a look at it yet. Hoping it doesn't come to this :).
:: The IACV thingie mentioned by others in this thread will need a check, although it seems like an unlikely candidate as it probably wouldn't produce a problem that changes with temperature.
:: ECT sensor has already been checked, but I'll check it when the problem is present just to be sure.
:: If none of the above seems to help I'll park the damn thing on the bottom of the sea (and maybe even collect some insurance money for it ;)

Anything I've missed?
A fuel-injector relay or something like that is supposed to be located somewhere near the radiator. I can't seem to find it! Could someone please describe it for me, or maybe post a picture of it?

By the way: Man, are there a lot of people experiencing the same problem with their 850's! Every single Volvo forum on the net has a billion posts about the same issue, and so far noone have been able to figure out exactly what the problem is or come up with a good way of tracing it.
It all seems to start with the cozy little hot-start issue, and after some time it develops into the stalling-while-running-issue for many (if not most) of us.

I'll post an update on this as soon as I have somthing to report.
And don't worry lads; we'll find out what the matter is with these cars of ours! :)

SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN!

And I'll replace all the vacuum hoses with the silicone ones at one go.
And while you're happily DIY-ing, clean the IACV and the TB altogether!
Clean the EGR hoses.
Clean the intercooler hoses of the oil inside.
Check the turbo for oil leaks.
Check the transmission for oil-seal leaks.
Check the cam-seal for oil-leaks.
Check the powersteering tank for oil-leaks.

CHECK or CHANGE the distributor cap.
CHECK or CHANGE the rotor arm.

I dont have a picture ready of it. But its GREY in colour (the other relay on the opposite end is BLACK) and its smaller (the engine fan relay is longer). You cant miss it.

Put your finger on the relay and get someone to turn the key from 0 to PosII. Feel for a small click. If not present, check the connections for loose or disconnected points.

Maybe due to its age, and the handling or MIShandling by previous owners?
:)

Update: So I finally found some bolts that will do, cleaned the sensor, and put them it all together, drove down the road everything was fine. Got home, turned it off, then tried to start it immediately afterward with no luck. So I am taking it to the Volvo dealership to get it put on a machine and we will see what happens from there. I hope they can find the problem or I am going to have to get a new car.
:(