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> Engine Won't Start When Warm
noleander89
post Aug 14 2008, 04:32 AM
Post #101


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Location: san diego, CA
Drives: 1995 volvo 850 5 cyl 2.4 NON turbo



i have the same issue in my car, now it wont start at all. i did replce the fuel pump relay and got nothing. i replaced the cam shaft, crankshaft, trottle osition sensor, and someother sensor right above the trottle position sensor and still have nothing. i dont kno what to do. the AMF sensor looks to be brand new.
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ampangbear
post Aug 15 2008, 04:50 AM
Post #102


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Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA
Drives: 1996 Volvo 855 T5 FWD, 1989 Honda Civic 2-Door



Please read through this thread and see if this helps.

Also a reply is posted here for you.
http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?show...9318#entry89318

Good luck.
Keep us posted.

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volvo spec
post Aug 25 2008, 09:52 AM
Post #103


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Location: usa Foxlake
Drives: series 900, 780, 850, S70 Models.



Install the fuel pressure gauge and see what is the fuel pressure when problem occures.
Let me know what did you read, then I will guide you farther.
Thank you for asking Volvo Spec
:00000732:
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volvo spec
post Aug 25 2008, 09:57 AM
Post #104


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Location: usa Foxlake
Drives: series 900, 780, 850, S70 Models.



First check if the fuel pump works by checking current drawn by the pump or trying to hear sound of the pump if it does work then use fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure.
Thank you for asking Volvo spec
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Irréductible
post Sep 15 2008, 01:56 PM
Post #105


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Location: Canada
Drives: Volvo 850



Replacing the IAC Valve (Idle air control valve) solved the problem for me. Runs like new now :)

It was hard to tell from the outside, no particular clue. I took a chance and dismounted the valve, removed the back cover and took out the rotor.

Than I put the valve back on the engine and actuated the valve manually to see the difference.

It was the culprit, the valve was not actuating anymore. In it's dead position, the valve was probably opened just right for the engine to start and run when cold, but when hot, it needed more air that the vavle would not provdide and would actually choke the engine.

65$ at the nearest scrap yard :)

Now does anyone know how to clear the Lambda "Chack Engine" without a scanner?
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ampangbear
post Sep 16 2008, 03:29 AM
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QUOTE(Irréductible @ Sep 16 2008, 02:56 AM)
Replacing the IAC Valve (Idle air control valve) solved the problem for me. Runs like new now :)
[right][snapback]91783[/snapback][/right]


DEPENDING on the CONDITION of the IACV, the valve can simply be CLEANED, without replacement yet.

Thus far, i have managed to revived 2 'seemingly' stuck-dead IACV to life, and working till now, and cleaned many more. Once cleaned, the IACV would work as good.

I know what some of you might be thinking, and all i can say at this juncture, is to have you actually TRY it first.
:)




QUOTE(Irréductible @ Sep 16 2008, 02:56 AM)
Now does anyone know how to clear the Lambda "Chack Engine" without a scanner?
[right][snapback]91783[/snapback][/right]


This would depend on your year of manufacture, and whether your car is an OBD1 or OBD2. You didnt mention it in your avatar.

Cheers.
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Irréductible
post Sep 19 2008, 08:25 AM
Post #107


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Drives: Volvo 850



Thanks ampangbear..

I tried cleaning it first, did not work, opened it up, cleaned it up some more but nothing... was really dead

No problem for the check engine light, I managed to sell the car anyways. :) I did open another thread for that question but someone told me it can't be done without the tool on my car (obd-II).

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