Flat panels are easy spots. This is at the rear-seats. Notice the rear speaker. The insulation was pasted at the top part…









…and the bottom part, as well.






Hidden spot.





According to some advice we got, the pasting need not be as close to one another. But we pasted it anywhere we think is good. 

[That’s me. And like my brother, I’m shy too…] HEHE.



Attached thumbnail(s)

Half-way at the back, we took a look at the time, and decided to start on the dash-board. As you could see, we pasted it on any metal part we can see. If it’s metal, then it’s pasted on.
:P
We removed the original dampening material, pasted the SiKaDamp on the metal frame, and re-attach the original dampening material on top of the SiKaDamp.









The top, most-front frames (point where the windshield meets the body) were also not spared.








Close-up.


Attached thumbnail(s)

We even pasted the material on the metal frame above the steering-shaft.





Upon satisfaction that no metal-frame is uninsulated, we attempted to close the dash.





This is where we got stuck. *sigh* HELP. HELP. HELP. The heat was getting on, so we spread a long piece of cloth across the front windshield to help shield us from the sun.


Attached thumbnail(s)

It got so hot that we had to pull-out a stand-fan from the store to help us cool-off or at least to get the air to move...









Back to where we got stuck…






Still trying to figure-out the problem. The problem = as mentioned before, is that the dash doesn’t want to close. Something was stuck in between. We narrowed it down to a wiring cluster the size of my thumb, that was wrongly routed, causing a gap as big as the cluster itself. Hence the main middle screw on top of the dash cant even stick.

The wrong routing was, as mentioned before, due to our guess. Apparently, the cables were cut to fit exactly such and such length only. *Sigh*




Attached thumbnail(s)

So long a time, that we decided to move ahead with the rest of the other areas first. Shown below, is the spare wheel-well.



The now shiny spare wheel/boot area.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Remember the drain-hole lid? It was so rusted that it broke when we tried to remove it for cleaning. And since we don’t have one handy, it has to remain ‘holed’ until we can get one at the parts store. In the meantime, we covered it with aluminium strips to minimize the rust.
At some point in the future, this will need to be addressed properly, nonetheless, and we understood that. Otherwise we’ll lose the car via disintegration, little-by-little.





Here’s how it looks like, the end-result.


Attached thumbnail(s)

We had to stop for about three hours to fetch family members from the airport. And upon returning, we decided that since it was getting dark soon, we had to use our ‘wild-card’ option to postpone the dashboard installation to the morning after.

And since we had some time before dark, he decided to attack the door-panels. After discussing what should be done, and how he should go around it with one door for demonstration, my brother got to it himself. Yes, I went straight into the house for some lunch. At 7.10pm (Yes, lunch…) My brother had his meal at 4.00pm previously. By the time I got out, he was already finishing the second door. Fast, eh?

Basically, upon opening up the door panel, we noticed that there was again very limited room to maneuver to get the 20cm X 80 cm sheet into the door itself, to get at the outer layer on the inside. So, we decided to first cut the 20cms width into 10cms. Then slowly slide it in via the window opening gap at the top from the inside. This is the only possible option to not get the insulation material folded or crimped. All this is done, with the adhesive cover at the back of the material still attached. The plastic cover that protects the door internals can be pulled out from both ends where you can slip your hands in. Once the sheet is in, use both hands to peel the material cover out slowly, while at the same time, press-paste it onto the door’s outer layer.

This can be and was done in the semi-dark environment. Because your hands are inside the panel, your eyes cant see either, right? If your imagination is good, then you’ll be able to get a rough idea of what I’m talking about. We cut the sheet into two, also to be able to avoid the door’s middle-beam. The tube is big, and it might disturb your already limited movements.

By the time this is done, it was already too dark to work outside, and I hate having to work using a flash-light. So, I stayed inside while my brother tied up the loose ends and gathered everything else, to save for tomorrow.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Come the next morning (Sunday – 24 June 2007), and by the time I arrived, he declared “We have four leftover sheets!” and was already thinking of where to dispose the ‘additional’ sheets.

We decided to go for under the middle chassis. While the original stock noise dampening insulation was still present, we noticed that it had hardened somewhat. (What to expect from a 18 year old car, right?) So, we added the SiKaDamp ® at spots that were still barren, bearing in mind not to paste on the areas that would result in the seats having trouble to be fixed back.

As shown above and below, we went for the middle floor-pillar that housed the parking brake and the gear stick.

We also patched the area below the rear seat elevation, as in above.
Next, we added SiKaDamp® to below the rear-seats where the fuel-pump was.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Finally, we were able to fix the two problems mentioned before, based on one theory. Backed-up by photos. Change the routing as we see them, to other options that may be available.





We were able to solve two issues by this thought. The dash gap and the digital clock insertion.

As we learned, both were problematic, because we routed the cables wrongly.













All the work was accompanied by good music, provided by my brother’s mobile-phone (on Saturday) and my trusted laptop (on Sunday). The hydro-vacuum cleaner also proved to be useful. :P



Attached thumbnail(s)

What came next was the installation of the dashboard bottom cover for the middle/center console and the arm-rest / middle compartment.



Attached thumbnail(s)

Wiring for the ICE.












He then inserted the instrument panel, being mindful not to scar the clear plastic.








Take your time to do this.

We figured that there is no point to be quick, and end-up not properly connecting the cables, or worse, breaking them.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Next, the steering-wheel.

After fixing the three screws back into place (as indicated by the yellow circles),…







…we fitted the centre piece. We would have applied a little (just a tad) grease before that, if we had any.


Then, don’t forget the steering boss two-piece brackets. There are also just three screws there.






Lastly, the steering-wheel. This may sound simple, but until and unless you are able to hear the clunk sound as the steering-wheel ‘drops’ into place, keep turning the steering wheel tooth-by-tooth. (Referring to the steering thread’s teeth).


Attached thumbnail(s)

Before we screwed the steering-wheel tight, we reconnected the battery terminals to test. It started at one crank, as usual.  The instruments were all working fine, as before.

YEAY!



Now, we had to close everything up again. This was probably more tiring than taking them out piece-by-piece, the first time. HEHE.

Attached thumbnail(s)

Just to show how obsessed my brother is with noise dampening. He has SiKaDamp® and SuperLON® in his boot.  :thumbsup:


:thumbsup:

Attached thumbnail(s)

Our dad also helped where he could.




Attached thumbnail(s)

Aaaaaaaaaaaand, it’s DONE!
:)




:banana: :banana: :banana:


Attached thumbnail(s)