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> How Do I Reset "brake Failure" Light?
PHYVOLVO
post Jun 18 2007, 09:55 AM
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I had a break failure, and as a reult replaced all pads, mastercylinder and everything, and the brakes now work perfectly. My only issue is that the brake failure light is still on. How do I restart it to turn it off?

Thanks!
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IceBrick
post Jun 19 2007, 07:49 PM
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I don't think there is a reset.
How hard is the pedal?
My guess is that you have a bit of air in one of the lines. If so, the pedal would be a bit soft, and the light would come on when you press the pedal.
Also note that your calipers need to be bled in a specific order.
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I have a nut lef...
post Jun 21 2007, 04:43 PM
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Look down inside your LH/S wing under the bonnet. There's an oblong aluminium box the size of a 20 pack of ciggies,(roughly), with brake pipes coming from it.

This holds the pressure warnin valve. You'll see a phillips (cross head) screw, undo and remove it. From memory There's a small cylindrical piece of plasic or metal that floats in here, and I used a very small screwdriver to move it into the centre position.

Basically it floats between the two brake circuits, if you have a leak on one of the brake circuits, this cylinder will pushed by the higher pressure of the good brake circuit towards the lower pressured (faulty/leaking) circuit, and makes a microswitch.

Hazy memory, but I'm sure it's right.

Good luck

Stu.
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funnyguy44444
post Jun 21 2007, 05:00 PM
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If your brakes work fine and the light is just bugging you you could always just take out the light bulb lol.
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BrockHead01
post Sep 29 2008, 03:18 AM
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Ok 'm having this problem now that i replaced front pads and one caliper on my 85' 244. The one curb side was all rusted out and binding..got a good deal on one refurb..he didnt have two at that price..soooo

The light wont go off...should i bleed again??the pedal feels a bit softer than before.
so if i were to bleed again, all around this time, (only did new caliper side)
i would reset the valve after i bleed all around???Is fluid lost by opening valve?
Sorry i only have Haynse manual and it kinda """"""doesnt have that picture...but speaks a bit about this part/valve...

Any confirmation on the type of driver used for the valve screw?? I tried to get to it today by viewing with mirror but didn't know what i was seeing...my pal thought it was some kinda hex nut????

Thanks guys
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nice86
post Sep 29 2008, 09:42 AM
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"I had a break failure, and as a reult replaced all pads, mastercylinder and everything,..."

PHYVOLVO, does "everything" include the junction box? That's what has the brake failure warning switch. It is recommended to change the junction box whenever you change the master cylinder. The problem is, once the junction box triggers an imbalance in fluid pressure, it should be replaced because the internal seals are designed to work one time.
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240on280
post Sep 30 2008, 04:12 PM
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On the 1986 240, the "octopus" can be reset. As Stu mentioned earlier, the puck (or ball bearing?) is stuck and needs to be re-centered. The end pieces have a hex on them (Nothing to do with witchcraft...) and this gives you access to the internals. If the octopus is leaking at the sensor you will have to replace it but this is a horrible job to do. Don't remove the bulb...
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BrockHead01
post Oct 4 2008, 07:04 PM
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Ok mine is not leaking just needs resetting...
So i am assuming that the '85 has a hex reset also, I guess i owe my buddy a
:beer: ...my "octopus" has two screws.
Do we have to disconnect the "arms" to clear lines before we turn screw...
Can i just bleed lines then turn screw...
To increase our chances of success on first(but prob second) try can someone post step by step procedure for resetting this....
Should i reset first, then bleed using that valve to tell me if bleed was success ?or just bleed til pedal feels firm and tight, then reset valve..???

thanks

This brake failure light is driving me crazy... :haha:

QUOTE(240on280 @ Sep 30 2008, 01:12 PM)
On the 1986 240, the "octopus" can be reset.  As Stu mentioned earlier, the puck (or ball bearing?) is stuck and needs to be re-centered.  The end pieces have a hex on them (Nothing to do with witchcraft...) and this gives you access to the internals.  If the octopus is leaking at the sensor you will have to replace it but this is a horrible job to do. Don't remove the bulb...
[right][snapback]92896[/snapback][/right]

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Volgrrr
post Oct 7 2008, 10:26 PM
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QUOTE(funnyguy44444 @ Jun 22 2007, 09:00 AM)
If your brakes work fine and the light is just bugging you you could always just  take out the light bulb lol.
[right][snapback]58140[/snapback][/right]

I hope you're not serious!

So what happens when a brake fault occurs, the warning mechanism is activated but, someone, in all their wisdom, advised you to remove the bulb from the warning light?



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manxman
post Oct 7 2008, 11:58 PM
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QUOTE(Volgrrr @ Oct 8 2008, 12:26 PM)
I hope you're not serious!

So what happens when a brake fault occurs, the warning mechanism is activated but, someone, in all their wisdom, advised you to remove the bulb from the warning light?




There are Dorks about, and they do make fun of the unlearned. We were all noobs at least once before, let's not destroy the faith of a beginner in the art. Nor the lives of those whom travel in the vehicle he repairs.

Do not remove the bulb, that'd be like turning up the radio so you can't hear the motor's dying noises.
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Volgrrr
post Oct 8 2008, 04:08 AM
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QUOTE(manxman @ Oct 8 2008, 03:58 PM)
Do not remove the bulb, that'd be like turning up the radio so you can't hear the motor's dying noises.
[right][snapback]93638[/snapback][/right]

+1

An excellent analogy!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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