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> Your Engine Wont Start?, Things to look at...
ampangbear
post Mar 26 2007, 11:09 PM
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OK, this probably is late. :right:

I've also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let's start... But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged. :bwekk:

(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let's help to keep this information free-flowing...) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh? :thumbsup:

Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.

:liebe011: Thanks! :liebe011:






P/S:
If you're quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out...
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ampangbear
post Mar 26 2007, 11:20 PM
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Symptom-based

Among the things to look at:-

NO CRANK AT ALL
- Check battery power.
- Check battery connection, like the terminal points for oxidation, or the connections for cut or severity etc.
- Check gear position. Car will and should not start if the gear is neither in P or N.
- Check ignition switch.
- Check fuses in the fuse-box.

CRANKS BUT DOESNT CATCH
- Check air filter.
- Check fuel filter.
- Listen for fuel-pump working when you turn the key into 'Pos II'.
- Check fuel-pump controller (Pink fuse with letters 103).
- Check fuel-pressure at the fuel-rail.
- Check injector relay (Have someone turn ignition key into 'Pos II' while you firmly touch the injector relay - if you sense a small click, then it's OK)
- Check injector relay connection (Some people solder the connections but when you need to replace it later, you're in for more work)




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lazerr
post Apr 2 2007, 06:02 AM
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Hi All:

I've done the Search and I haven't found this problem.

I have had problems with my 94 850 Turbo that suddenly started running very rough. If I was very gentle on the gas pedal I can get it up to speed but pushing it down normally actually slows the engine down to a crawl. I checked for the Elbow Vacuum hoses and found holes but replacing them did nothing. I then changed the Gas Filter and now it won't start. Plenty of turnover but it sounds like no fuel.
I followed the instructions found on the board but it said nothing about a bleeding procedure or other way to get the gas going.

1. is this normal with a fuel filter change?
2. Is it possible that I collasped/ pinched the fuel hose or something?

Thanks
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lazerr
post Apr 2 2007, 12:52 PM
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Well....Here I am replying to my own question.
After I changed the fuel filter my Volvo 850 turbo would not start. I searched the board and finally came across a statement that, as a last resort, "turn the key to start, hold down the gas pedal to the floor, and continue for up to 6 minutes." Four and a half minutes later the car started!
I always thought that extended starting like that would harm the starter but the poster said it was OK and I trusted.

Evidently it is OK, as long as you have a good battery. Imagine, the car can turn over for over 4 minutes and not burn out the starter or weaken the battery!

It's still running rough but that's another topic.
javascript:emoticon(':grin:')
smilie
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xoxkarly
post Apr 3 2007, 01:14 PM
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Sometime i indeed have troubles starting my Volvo S40. I think it's because i ran its battery on for to long. I havnt gotten up to changing it yet. But im going to fairely soon. Does you engine make a clicking niose everytime you try to start it?

xoxkarly.
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Scotsgirl
post Apr 12 2007, 03:44 AM
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Hello,

This is my first ever post! I have a problem with my 850 starting up - it takes a few attempts to start but eventually catches however I have to sit with the revs up sor a few minutes so it doesn't cut out again. Also the lambda-sond warning light is on constantly.

I took it to the garage and they said it needed a flywheel sensor - this worked for one day then the whole problem began again! Can anyone tell me what could be causing this?

:liebe011:
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lazerr
post Apr 12 2007, 07:51 AM
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After changing the fuel filter and then starting the car using the 5 minute crank method, the fuel was still weak. Replaced the Fuel Pump and now all is great. The car starts, runs and drives better than ever.

Thanks all
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xpiecemealx
post Apr 23 2007, 02:56 PM
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I remember when I was a kid my moms thunderbird starter got stuck. it just kept going. We had to call my dad and while my dad is on the phone he told me to disconnect the battery cable so I did. After about 15 minutes of the starter going over and over I got it to stop. the starter was just fine after my dad looked over the car. I always was amazed, and that was a Ford to beat it all. (no offense Tech)
QUOTE(lazerr @ Apr 2 2007, 12:52 PM)
Well....Here I am replying to my own question.
After I changed the fuel filter my Volvo 850 turbo would not start. I searched the board and finally came across a statement that, as a last resort, "turn the key to start, hold down the gas pedal to the floor, and continue for up to 6 minutes." Four and a half minutes later the car started!
I always thought that extended starting like that would harm the starter but the poster said it was OK and I trusted.

Evidently it is OK, as long as you have a good battery. Imagine, the car can turn over for over 4 minutes and not burn out the starter or weaken the battery!

It's still running rough but that's another topic.
javascript:emoticon(':grin:')
smilie
[right][snapback]53929[/snapback][/right]

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Guest_Volgrrr_*
post May 9 2007, 06:47 AM
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Guests







That's because the starter motor draws heavy current upon intial start as it tries to get the engine up to crank speed.

As the resistance to cranking gets less, the amps start to drop until the maximum crank speed is reached, At this point the amps will have dropped dramatically and the starter motor will continue to run without any worry about it burning out as heat is the factor that damages any electric motor and all heat generated equates to the square of current (e.g. 2 amps = 4 heat units generated, 6 amps = 36 heat units generated, and so on.)

Imagine the heat generated if the starter ran continually at 100 amps or more.

Luckily when running at full speed (that is when the motor is cranking over easily) the current drawn by the starter motor is probably 5-10 amps which - for an item specifically designed to handle heavy current - is next to nothing.
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ampangbear
post Jun 4 2007, 10:44 PM
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QUOTE(Scotsgirl @ Apr 12 2007, 04:44 PM)

Also the lambda-sond warning light is on constantly.

[right][snapback]54443[/snapback][/right]



Scottsgirl,

You need to check the lambda code and see what it says.


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Doctoral
post Jun 16 2007, 09:26 AM
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QUOTE(ampangbear @ Mar 27 2007, 05:20 AM)
Symptom-based

Among the things to look at:-

NO CRANK AT ALL
- Check battery power.
- Check battery connection, like the terminal points for oxidation, or the connections for cut or severity etc.
- Check gear position. Car will and should not start if the gear is neither in P or N.
- Check ignition switch.
- Check fuses in the fuse-box.

CRANKS BUT DOESNT CATCH
- Check air filter.
- Check fuel filter.
- Listen for fuel-pump working when you turn the key into 'Pos II'.
- Check fuel-pump controller (Pink fuse with letters 103).
- Check fuel-pressure at the fuel-rail.
- Check injector relay (Have someone turn ignition key into 'Pos II'  while you firmly touch the injector relay - if you sense a small click, then it's OK)
- Check injector relay connection (Some people solder the connections but when you need to replace it later, you're in for more work)
[right][snapback]53554[/snapback][/right]


I posted this on the Introductions initially - I have tried everything in the CRANKS BUT DOESN'T CATCH SECTION above after putting an engine and gearbox together with a new clutch and I just can't get a spark from either the original or a brand new ignition coil - what is going on???

ORIGINAL POST

:puzzled: I have 2 1996 Volvo 850's - one is going to that great Volvo graveyard (Red car) and the other (Green metallic car) is being rebuilt with the parts from it.

I have spent the last 5 weeks changing the clutch and gearbox from the red one to the green one, have found that the red one didn't have a vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox and now, after having put the whole lot back together in the engine bay (Green engine, Red gearbox), I get no spark from the ignition coil (using a Draper strobe timing light) ... HELP !!!!!!!!!!!! :liebe011:
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Doctoral
post Jun 16 2007, 09:33 AM
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P.S. Also, there are no diagnostic codes available from the OBD I, not even a 1-1-1. Is this a ploy by Volvo to get me to dump 2 cars, or am I going mad ? :wacko:
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ampangbear
post Jun 18 2007, 02:34 AM
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Check the simple things first, like the battery power and the battery connections. When doing a major transplant like this, small things tend to get left out.

And since you're good at the engines, try tracing back all that have been done to effect the change. Pay attention to relays, fuses and connections.

Oh BTW, i assume BOTH the cars are of the same model and year, right?

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ampangbear
post Jun 18 2007, 02:39 AM
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Check the simple things first, like the battery power and the battery connections. When doing a major transplant like this, small things tend to get left out.

And since you're good at the engines, try tracing back all that have been done to effect the change. Pay attention to relays, fuses and connections.

Oh BTW, i assume BOTH the cars are of the same model and year, right?

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dkemmel
post Jun 29 2007, 12:15 PM
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If you are having repeated problems with your volvo, you should think about seeking legal help. The site I use when I have recurring problems is http://www.volvoproblems.com. They helped me a lot.
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Trix
post Aug 19 2007, 05:41 PM
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If you have a no start problem where nothing happens when you turn the key...no crank............then: with the key on run the gear shift back and forth a few times through all the gears....it should then start right up again....

Otherwise, don't forget to clean the ground in front of the battery on the body...every once in a while....especially if you have other weird electrcial symptoms.

trix
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Doctoral
post Sep 3 2007, 09:10 AM
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:liebe011: :liebe011: :liebe011: Many thanks to all who replied - the answer was the ignition coil :amen: 200 GBP from Volvo, but only 70 GBP from Eurocarparts. Problem solved :banana:
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ninefour850t
post Dec 8 2007, 07:17 PM
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Hey there all, I posted a few months ago when I bought my first Volvo, a 94 850 turbo. It was purchased in a no starting condition. I have done much experimentation and swapping components, including camshaft pos. sensor, coil, power stage and injector relay. (I had access to a non turbo donor car for free, why not right?). The symptoms are as follows. No spark though the coil is fine and getting power. I believe the Bosch ecu isn't allowing a spark to happen either due to electrical fault or lack of signal from some sensor that it sees as important. The worst part is that I messed with the car for months and never got a spark, and one day was checking the state of the battery and it started up when cranked. It continued to start everyday for a month, so I registered the car. I was amazed at how good the engine sounded and ran after sitting for at least a year. The turbo spooled fine as well. I went to the grocery store and was on my way to fill up with fresh gas when the car died on a steep hill. It hasn't started since. I have noticed and discussed with members here that my diagnostics unit (on board) transmits no data from several ports and most importantly number 2. When I plug the jumper in to these ports I immediately get a weak glow from the LED. I am going out right now to continue testing the ecu's wiring harness one wire at a time, comparing values to a pin-out chart. By my logic this should show something eventually. If any one has any new ideas, let me know. Thanks to Ampangbear, JPN and Red850turbo for their previous help, it was appreciated.
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ampangbear
post Dec 11 2007, 11:11 PM
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QUOTE(ninefour850t @ Dec 9 2007, 08:17 AM)
Hey there all, I posted a few months ago when I bought my first Volvo, a 94 850 turbo.  It was purchased in a no starting condition.  I have done much experimentation and swapping components, including camshaft pos. sensor, coil, power stage and injector relay. (I had access to a non turbo donor car for free, why not right?).  The symptoms are as follows.  No spark though the coil is fine and getting power.  I believe the Bosch ecu isn't allowing a spark to happen either due to electrical fault or lack of signal from some sensor that it sees as important.  The worst part is that I messed with the car for months and never got a spark, and one day was checking the state of the battery and it started up when cranked.  It continued to start everyday for a month, so I registered the car.  I was amazed at how good the engine sounded and ran after sitting for at least a year.  The turbo spooled fine as well.  I went to the grocery store and was on my way to fill up with fresh gas when the car died on a steep hill.  It hasn't started since.  I have noticed and discussed with members here that my diagnostics unit (on board) transmits no data from several ports and most importantly number 2.  When I plug the jumper in to these ports I immediately get a weak glow from the LED.  I am going out right now to  continue testing the ecu's wiring harness one wire at a time, comparing values to a pin-out chart.  By my logic this should show something eventually.  If any one has any new ideas,  let me know.  Thanks to Ampangbear, JPN and Red850turbo  for their previous help, it was appreciated.
[right][snapback]67518[/snapback][/right]



Car stalling while driving could mean the CMP sensor and/or the flywheel sensor. That is, btw, assuming that the maintenance part is all good. Meaning the air filter, sparkplugs, coil cables, spark cables, ignition coil, power stage, engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, atf are all ok.

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red850turbowagon
post Jan 10 2008, 07:19 PM
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I've had my '94 wagon since November of 2006, with only two previous owners, who maintained it immaculately, and I've had no problems with it, myself, until yesterday morning. After sitting in the garage for two days, which it has done many times before, it will not start. It cranks, and acts like it WANTS to start, (has SOME firing) but will not stay running. The "check engine" light has been on for a couple of months, because of a 4-3-5 code, which, according to the chart I have, is "front heated oxygen sensor-slow response". But, it had continued to run fine, despite that fact. That's from socket #2, on the diagnostic unit. Sockets #1, #3, and #7 have the 1-1-1 code (no faults), but the #6 socket has no code from it, at all. I've always done most of my own repairs, on my previous vehicles, but this Volvo is all new to me. Somebody please help me!

btw...the fuel pump IS working (I can hear it come on, when the key is turned on) And their is spark, at least at the coil. Like I said, it ACTS like it wants to start, but it will not stay running.

THANKS
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