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> Drive Axle Remove Problem, problem removing drive axle from tranny
Volvoanthensga
post Oct 23 2008, 08:08 PM
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Sorry for the repeated post.
I am replacing the outer cv-joint boot on my 94 850 wagon as it has a small tear. So I am taking out the drive axle. It is on the drivers side and I have a manual transmission. I have followed the instruction in my Hayens manual and have had no problem until the last step, removing the drive axle from the transmission. I see on this thread that the instructions are the same in my Haynes manual, leverage a screwdriver between the inner cv joint and the transmission housing. I have done this and have even tried a smallish crow-bar. I end up rocking the trasmission slightly but the drive axle is not coming out. I have tried and stopped to think, change angles and positioning for a few hours now and I have given up. Any advice from people who have done this. Is there a certain angle or place my screw drive should be inbetween the cv joint and the transmission housing. How hard was this step for you?
Any response will be appreciated.

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swedseed850
post Oct 23 2008, 08:19 PM
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:clap: GO DAWGS!!!!!!! :beer:
the instructions are strait up, you sure you followed all the steps carefully? (sorry, i know how it is to hear that now) sometimes that clip on the end of the axle makes it hard to get out. sorry dude, some times its due to leverage, lifts make a differnce (if your not using one now).
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Volvoanthensga
post Oct 23 2008, 08:43 PM
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I double and trippled checked the instructions. I have done this on a 96 grand voyager van so I feel confident I followed the instruction. I am not using a lift. I am in the driveway. But I am going to get the car a little higher on the jack stands keeping everything safe, give myself a little more room and keep trying. It does feel like something is holding the axle in so it is the clip. I am glad these things don't just slide out however and need a little muscle.

Thank for the reply. It is much appreciated.

Go DAWGS
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swedseed850
post Oct 23 2008, 08:50 PM
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:thumbsup:
cheers bro.
get it a little higher, but be safe, please.
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Volvoanthensga
post Oct 27 2008, 08:09 PM
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I got the car a little higher, got some more leverage and that did the trick. Put my weight into it and about ram my head into the fender but got it off.
Thanks
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ampangbear
post Oct 27 2008, 10:10 PM
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Ouch, that must hurt.

While crusing online, i found a website that offered an axle puller or something. This maybe a must for mechanics, but for DIYers, it'll prolly be up to you to get it for future works.

I know for sure, i'm getting a driveshaft work done soon.
:)

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chax
post Jan 31 2012, 10:18 AM
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Try turning the axle: sometimes a different position helps. Also, use TWO prying devices, positioned on opposite sides of the inner CV joint housing, so the axle is forced out evenly. And see http://www.volvo-forums.com/t3811-cv-axle-...nstructions.htm for other details, and torque specs.

NOTE: the first instruction in many of tutorials on this procedure is "Put car on jack stands:" I think it's safer to break the axle nut free while the car's still on the ground, THEN put it on jack stands.
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Kiss4aFrog
post Feb 1 2012, 09:36 AM
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Breaking the axle nut loose on the ground is almost a must on most cars but the Volvo's don't have as much torque load on the nut. The big thing is don't use an impact !! I always did until someone pointed out when I was hammering on that nut to get it loose the shaft was transmitting some of that into the transmission and against the gears and bearings. I do it without the impacts now.

Secondly, it is important to torque the nut back down. It will make a difference in how well the bearing performs and how long it lives. The way they are machined they are set up to have that torque applied to them to reach and maintain their tolerances.
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hinterland
post Jan 12 2013, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE (Kiss4aFrog @ Feb 1 2012, 06:36 AM)
Breaking the axle nut loose on the ground is almost a must on most cars but the Volvo's don't have as much torque load on the nut. The big thing is don't use an impact !! I always did until someone pointed out when I was hammering on that nut to get it loose the shaft was transmitting some of that into the transmission and against the gears and bearings. I do it without the impacts now.

Secondly, it is important to torque the nut back down. It will make a difference in how well the bearing performs and how long it lives. The way they are machined they are set up to have that torque applied to them to reach and maintain their tolerances.


I have found of late in Canada many suppliers only sell completely new aftermarket axles only and not rebuilt ones using original 850 axles.
If the machining is out by a fraction on the axle splines they can be very difficult to get to fit in to the transmission, and I can imagine getting them out again could become a real task.
My friend recently mounted such an axle and he had to literally pound it in, so I can imagine anybody trying to remove it in the future may run into a real headache!

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