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> Replacing Alternator On 1991 740 Volvo Gl Non-turbo
Christina
post Jan 18 2013, 11:13 AM
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A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternator. My car is running, but my low beam headlights are too dim to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dashlights, clock and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous. Thanks for your help.
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danielm85948
post Jan 18 2013, 11:30 AM
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QUOTE (Christina @ Jan 18 2013, 12:13 PM)
A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternator. My car is running, but my low beam headlights are too dim to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dashlights, clock and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous. Thanks for your help.

you have two earth wires replace the round eye connections and a blue wire from your ignition switch replace the spade connection to fit, but it would have been better to get the correct alternator .
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Christina
post Jan 18 2013, 11:48 AM
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Thanks Daniel. Do you think I should still get the correct alternator or will replacing the spade connection fix all those issues? I don't want to cause additional problems to my car. I kept the old alternator because we think the original problem was the voltage regulator and I though I could replace that part if this new alternator didn't work. But my mechanic says that the old alternator is probably a non-serviceable one which can't be repaired, so I'd still have to get a new alternator regardless.
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highvoltj
post Jan 18 2013, 11:54 AM
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Goodmorning Christina,
Sorry to hear about your alternator woes...It was noble of your friend to try and 'make it work'..but when you start doing changes or modification's to your electric system, thing's can 'go south' in a hurry! I would go back to the original equipment, and if you still have the original alternator, it can be 'rebuilt' hopefully by your savvy friend as it is relatively easy...I've done several...you can go to an automotive electrical business or some part's stores and purchase the brush set and bearing's if needed. The brush set should be around $20.00 and by locating the brush holder on the back of the alternator, you can simply replace the brush set...with a new one made for your alternator, or the brushes, ($3.99 each at Kragen's) may have to be replaced by taking the alternator apart to locate the brushes and have new ones soldered on. The alternator for your model is also available at Kragens as a rebuilt unit for $90.00-$120.00 Make sure that the original wiring plug is not modified as this will cause problems also. Hope this help's you out!
Jon
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Christina
post Jan 18 2013, 12:50 PM
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Thank you Jon! This helps a lot. Cheers. Christina
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danielm85948
post Jan 18 2013, 04:05 PM
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QUOTE (Christina @ Jan 18 2013, 11:48 AM)
Thanks Daniel. Do you think I should still get the correct alternator or will replacing the spade connection fix all those issues? I don't want to cause additional problems to my car. I kept the old alternator because we think the original problem was the voltage regulator and I though I could replace that part if this new alternator didn't work. But my mechanic says that the old alternator is probably a non-serviceable one which can't be repaired, so I'd still have to get a new alternator regardless.

it would have been better to have come on here before cutting any wires , but now it is done , just replace the connections again , get on to the site sponsor FCP Groton you can get a voltage regulator from them for $23.95 or $31 would be the better one, as the regulator controls the power from the alternator , part of it is your brushes and as they are made of carbon so they wear down just held on with two screws ,looks like a white plastic thing the regulator part of it is the round thing in the centre , you can do that yourself .
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