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> Warning Lights, warning lights not functioning.
kd24588
post Dec 21 2012, 11:58 AM
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Hello!

I'm new to Forums so I hope this post gets noticed.

My car is a 1988 245 GL wagon. This is a really long story but I'll try to cut to the chase.
When I turn the ignition key to the ACC position prior to starting none of the warning lights illuminate. However the car will start and run normally. Since the BATTERY light sends current to the Alternator to excite the electromagnetic field, I need to rev the engine to get the alternator to self excite in order for it to start charging. After reving the engine, the battery light will then illuminate and stay on until the ignition is turned off. I've checked the battery and alternator with a voltmeter several times so I know this is what's happening I just don't know why :( I suspect a ground issue or possibly the ignition switch itself??
BTW none of the gauges are functioning either. They will however sporadically start jumping up up and down like they're trying to function but can't quite get there.

Thanks for you're help!
Kevin
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danielm85948
post Dec 21 2012, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE (kd24588 @ Dec 21 2012, 12:58 PM)
Hello!

I'm new to Forums so I hope this post gets noticed.

My car is a 1988 245 GL wagon. This is a really long story but I'll try to cut to the chase.
When I turn the ignition key to the ACC position prior to starting none of the warning lights illuminate. However the car will start and run normally. Since the BATTERY light sends current to the Alternator to excite the electromagnetic field, I need to rev the engine to get the alternator to self excite in order for it to start charging. After reving the engine, the battery light will then illuminate and stay on until the ignition is turned off. I've checked the battery and alternator with a voltmeter several times so I know this is what's happening I just don't know why (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I suspect a ground issue or possibly the ignition switch itself??
BTW none of the gauges are functioning either. They will however sporadically start jumping up up and down like they're trying to function but can't quite get there.

Thanks for you're help!
Kevin

this is common as your instruments cluster are failing due to solder cracking, try to get someone to resolder the contacts for you,but it can also be the electrical part of your ignition switch as both parts are a common trouble, google both these parts.
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kd24588
post Dec 21 2012, 02:03 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Dec 21 2012, 01:30 PM)
this is common as your instruments cluster are failing due to solder cracking, try to get someone to resolder the contacts for you,but it can also be the electrical part of your ignition switch as both parts are a common trouble, google both these parts.

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kd24588
post Dec 21 2012, 02:47 PM
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Thanks for the info! I've heard about the solder joint issues. The ignition switches are about $125. I haven't had any luck finding an instument cluster.
Is there a way to check the ignition switch first to see if this is the problem?

Thanks!
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danielm85948
post Dec 21 2012, 09:48 PM
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QUOTE (kd24588 @ Dec 21 2012, 02:47 PM)
Thanks for the info! I've heard about the solder joint issues. The ignition switches are about $125. I haven't had any luck finding an instument cluster.
Is there a way to check the ignition switch first to see if this is the problem?

Thanks!

remember it is the electrical part of the ignition switch, go under your drivers foot well,look up with a torch, you will find a plug with the wires on it ,at the rear of the switch,pull it off,now on your back in the foot well, remove the two small cross head screws,from the electrical part of your ignition switch, and lift it off,you can get them on ebay other volvo have the same switch you can not test them only replace them and you cant repair them, the only test you can do is on your plug with the wires on it, the thick red wire is from the pos side of the battery.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Dec 21 2012, 09:52 PM
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kd24588
post Dec 22 2012, 09:08 AM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Dec 21 2012, 09:48 PM)
remember it is the electrical part of the ignition switch, go under your drivers foot well,look up with a torch, you will find a plug with the wires on it ,at the rear of the switch,pull it off,now on your back in the foot well, remove the two small cross head screws,from the electrical part of your ignition switch, and lift it off,you can get them on ebay other volvo have the same switch you can not test them only replace them and you cant repair them, the only test you can do is on your plug with the wires on it, the thick red wire is from the pos side of the battery.

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kd24588
post Dec 22 2012, 09:20 AM
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Thanks for the info. I was hoping to be able to test since they are rather expensive $125 and it may not be the problem. Is it a difficult task to re-solder the instrument cluster contacts? I may try this first since it is the cheapest route and may actually be the problem. BTW I replaced the ignition switch approx 4 years ago but the car has probably only been driven 15k miles since then. I know it would be a guess but would you suspect the solder joints or the ignition switch??

Thanks!
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danielm85948
post Dec 22 2012, 05:56 PM
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QUOTE (kd24588 @ Dec 22 2012, 09:20 AM)
Thanks for the info. I was hoping to be able to test since they are rather expensive $125 and it may not be the problem. Is it a difficult task to re-solder the instrument cluster contacts? I may try this first since it is the cheapest route and may actually be the problem. BTW I replaced the ignition switch approx 4 years ago but the car has probably only been driven 15k miles since then. I know it would be a guess but would you suspect the solder joints or the ignition switch??

Thanks!

you mean you replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch, it is not the ignition switch but the electrical part held on by two screws at the rear of it, look at the video on you tube to see how to repair the instrument cluster, need a low watt soldering iron to do the soldering, it is not the ignition switch were you put your key in, but the electrical part of it held on by two screws behind it.
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kd24588
post Dec 22 2012, 07:20 PM
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Yes it was the electrical part. The car just quit right in the middle of the road! Sorry I didn't make myself clear. I've looked on you tube but haven't been able to find a video of the actual soldering. Can you paste a link that shows the actual repair?

Thank you so much!
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danielm85948
post Dec 22 2012, 11:41 PM
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QUOTE (kd24588 @ Dec 22 2012, 08:20 PM)
Yes it was the electrical part. The car just quit right in the middle of the road! Sorry I didn't make myself clear. I've looked on you tube but haven't been able to find a video of the actual soldering. Can you paste a link that shows the actual repair?

Thank you so much!

it will be your instrument cluster then ,not the switch, try google how to solder, and google repair the instrument cluster on a volvo 240/740/940 same repair, the trouble is due to the mix of tin and lead mix rust on the tin will make it crack so all you do with care is remelt the solder,but high heat can melt the plastic the solder is on, so learn about the soldering first, and only use a low watt soldering iron, with a fine tip on it.
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kd24588
post Dec 23 2012, 07:41 AM
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Thanks for the tips. I'll be giving that a try at some point after the holidays. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thank you very much for all of your advice.

Happy Holidays!
Kevin
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kd24588
post Dec 29 2012, 04:45 PM
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Hello!

Update.. The following falls into the "That figures" category.
All the gauges and warning lights started functioning normally again today.
Would this change your diagnosis?

Thanks!
Kevin
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danielm85948
post Dec 29 2012, 06:30 PM
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QUOTE (kd24588 @ Dec 29 2012, 05:45 PM)
Hello!

Update.. The following falls into the "That figures" category.
All the gauges and warning lights started functioning normally again today.
Would this change your diagnosis?

Thanks!
Kevin

the solder opens and closes as it heats up closing as it goes cold so no still the same you may find it will go off again as it goes hot, the solder will start to crack open, see how long it stays on, then do the soldering if it goes back off.
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kd24588
post Dec 31 2012, 09:25 AM
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Okay sounds like a plan. Thanks for your help!
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