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> Idle Revs Violently Up And Down, And Eventually, Stalls
Sebastiaan
post Jan 11 2012, 06:16 PM
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Drives: 1999 Volvo C70 2.4 L B5254T/56 Turbo automatic



I drive a 1999 C70 2.4 L B5254T/56 turbo automatic

The summary: When starting the car, the idle revs back and forth between 1500 and 400 rpms (both the tachometer and the engine) and then stalls, unless I keep giving gas and accelerate to over 15 mph. No service engine lights have come on. For a few weeks prior, the rpm’s drop to 600 when shifting from drive or park to reverse.

I really appreciate your guys suggestion on what should I look at first? Vacuum leak, idle air control valve, EGR valve, throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, fuel injectors/pressure regulator/pump/damper, spark plugs? Please help!

The long story: On the interstate, I got stuck in traffic for a bit - all the way to a halt. Then, when I got out, I hit the accelerator - to my knowledge not too hard, but still to have a bit of a kick - and it seemed like something gave in, because it just suddenly stopped accelerating. Out of shock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/haha.gif) , I’ve immediately let go of the gas pedal and took it nice and easy to get her home, which was maybe 2 miles away. I even stopped for a while at an intersection, accelerated, and slowed down a few times, but taking it slow, I made it home fine.

Then, curious as I was of what the hell just happened, I jumped back in my car to see if it would happen again. The car started fine in park, a bit of hesitation, but then, when I went in reverse, it started "bucking" - revving up to 1500 to 2000 rpms and down to about 400, back and forth, like crazy! It stalled on me several times. When I picked up a little speed - say maybe 15 mph – the “bucking” stopped. When I slowed down it restarted.

I have to say that I kind of saw it coming, because when you´ve driven a car for a long time you can just sense something is not right. She´s been acting out for a few weeks with a bit of a stuttering and going from drive or park to reverse, the rpm´s would really drop to around 500 rpm´s with the feeling that she would almost quit on me.

Thank you, guys.

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danielm85948
post Jan 11 2012, 11:02 PM
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Drives: volvo 940 se turbo 1991



QUOTE (Sebastiaan @ Jan 11 2012, 06:16 PM)
I drive a 1999 C70 2.4 L B5254T/56 turbo automatic

The summary: When starting the car, the idle revs back and forth between 1500 and 400 rpms (both the tachometer and the engine) and then stalls, unless I keep giving gas and accelerate to over 15 mph. No service engine lights have come on. For a few weeks prior, the rpm’s drop to 600 when shifting from drive or park to reverse.

I really appreciate your guys suggestion on what should I look at first? Vacuum leak, idle air control valve, EGR valve, throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, fuel injectors/pressure regulator/pump/damper, spark plugs? Please help!

The long story: On the interstate, I got stuck in traffic for a bit - all the way to a halt. Then, when I got out, I hit the accelerator - to my knowledge not too hard, but still to have a bit of a kick - and it seemed like something gave in, because it just suddenly stopped accelerating. Out of shock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/haha.gif) , I’ve immediately let go of the gas pedal and took it nice and easy to get her home, which was maybe 2 miles away. I even stopped for a while at an intersection, accelerated, and slowed down a few times, but taking it slow, I made it home fine.

Then, curious as I was of what the hell just happened, I jumped back in my car to see if it would happen again. The car started fine in park, a bit of hesitation, but then, when I went in reverse, it started "bucking" - revving up to 1500 to 2000 rpms and down to about 400, back and forth, like crazy! It stalled on me several times. When I picked up a little speed - say maybe 15 mph – the “bucking” stopped. When I slowed down it restarted.

I have to say that I kind of saw it coming, because when you´ve driven a car for a long time you can just sense something is not right. She´s been acting out for a few weeks with a bit of a stuttering and going from drive or park to reverse, the rpm´s would really drop to around 500 rpm´s with the feeling that she would almost quit on me.

Thank you, guys.

check the vacuum hoses for leaks.
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mykael
post Jan 11 2012, 11:38 PM
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Try disconnecting the MAF sensor... MAP and O2 might be worth trying as well. Matter of trial and error to isolate the failing one - or find a Volvo mechanic who can pull the error codes from it (and fix the sensors first).
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Sebastiaan
post Jan 12 2012, 11:40 AM
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Location: Belgium
Drives: 1999 Volvo C70 2.4 L B5254T/56 Turbo automatic



Hey guys, thanks for your feedback! Appearently, it was a very simple thing to fix in this case... the intercooler airduct came off from it´s connection above the fan shroud. All I had to do was to put it back on and retighten the clamp. Fixing a problem on my car has never ever been this simple before. I took her for a spin, and she drives again like a champ! The drop in rpms when switching into reverse has now also dissapeared.

Do you think I may have damaged something else while driving for a bit with the intercooler airduct disconnected, since there was a burned smell? As a preventive measure, I think I will check all the vacuum hoses, and I'd like to address MAP and O2 sensors as you recommended. Can I clean the MAP sensor with the carb cleaner, or should I just replace it? Haynes manual did not recommend cleaning the Heated oxygen sensor (lambda sensor). That's the O2 sensor I should be looking at, right? As I've now learned, I have a Bosch Motronic ME7 system with single ECU controlling both the fuel and ignition sides, fly-by-wire electronically controlled throttle, MAP sensor, and distributorless ignition system.
Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banana.gif)






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mykael
post Jan 23 2012, 01:10 AM
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Cool, nothing like a cheap fix. She may have gotten a little warm in the engine bay with the shroud disconnected - but if you can't see anything obvious and she still runs...

From what I can gather, trying to clean sensors is a bit of a 50/50 gamble. Half the time you get a better sensor, half the time a useless lump of plastic. I go with replacement, because then I always get a good sensor (although it does cost a bit more).
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danielm85948
post Jan 23 2012, 01:54 AM
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Drives: volvo 940 se turbo 1991



QUOTE (Sebastiaan @ Jan 12 2012, 12:40 PM)
Hey guys, thanks for your feedback! Appearently, it was a very simple thing to fix in this case... the intercooler airduct came off from it´s connection above the fan shroud. All I had to do was to put it back on and retighten the clamp. Fixing a problem on my car has never ever been this simple before. I took her for a spin, and she drives again like a champ! The drop in rpms when switching into reverse has now also dissapeared.

Do you think I may have damaged something else while driving for a bit with the intercooler airduct disconnected, since there was a burned smell? As a preventive measure, I think I will check all the vacuum hoses, and I'd like to address MAP and O2 sensors as you recommended. Can I clean the MAP sensor with the carb cleaner, or should I just replace it? Haynes manual did not recommend cleaning the Heated oxygen sensor (lambda sensor). That's the O2 sensor I should be looking at, right? As I've now learned, I have a Bosch Motronic ME7 system with single ECU controlling both the fuel and ignition sides, fly-by-wire electronically controlled throttle, MAP sensor, and distributorless ignition system.
Thanks again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banana.gif)

if car running ok now then do not need to fix it.
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