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> New Rear Brakes - Ebrake Disengaged Loud Bam When Taking Off From Park
nnatic
post Nov 25 2012, 10:00 PM
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I changed my rear brakes this past weekend and noticed that since then I have an odd sound when I drive off.

So I will park the car and engage the ebrake. I will then return to the car after a while (overnight etc) and disengage the ebrake, then put it in reverse / drive and when i give it gas to drive off, BAAAM - it sounds like you hit something or ran over something. I can stop the car fully and drive off - nothing. If I dont use the ebrake - nothing.

What in the world could this be??? It is quite loud and really scared that crap out of me - like you hit another car or something.

Any ideas?
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Vermont
post Nov 25 2012, 10:15 PM
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One of the linings of your parking brake shoes has become un-laminated from the shoe and is getting wedged between the drum and the other shoe.

They are not riveted . . . . only laminated/bonded (or glued) to the shoes. Water and rust between the two (shoe and lining) cause this detachment. It they get wedged while you're going forward, you need to drive a few feet in reverse to free them up; if wedged when moving in reverse, you have to go forward to un-wedge them. The noise you hear is the them getting broken free from the drum.

Hopefully, this just started and you haven't damaged the drum (part of the rotor). A set of Replacement Shoes can be had for $25.00 to $40.00.
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nnatic
post Nov 25 2012, 10:27 PM
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QUOTE (Vermont @ Nov 25 2012, 10:15 PM)
One of the linings of your parking brake shoes has become un-laminated from the shoe and is getting wedged between the drum and the other shoe.

They are not riveted . . . . only laminated/bonded (or glued) to the shoes. Water and rust between the two (shoe and lining) cause this detachment. It they get wedged while you're going forward, you need to drive a few feet in reverse to free them up; if wedged when moving in reverse, you have to go forward to un-wedge them. The noise you hear is the them getting broken free from the drum.

Hopefully, this just started and you haven't damaged the drum (part of the rotor). A set of Replacement Shoes can be had for $25.00 to $40.00.


Thanks a ton for your reply!

If I avoid using the parking brake until i get this repaired am I safe?

While I am at it, my parking brake is darn near useless. Can this be adjusted at the brake or does this adjustment have to be made under the console in between the driver's / passenger's seat like I read on some of the XC90s?

That really stinks. Getting to the bolts that hold our calipers on was rediculous! I did my BMW 335i today.. and it was easy as could be... unreal how tough it was to get to those bolts for some reason.

Am i missing some tool? Any advise?
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grendel1960
post Nov 26 2012, 03:19 AM
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its either the delamination or your parking brake shoes are so worn that the cam which engages them is going to a point it doesn't self release, so when it does it goes with a bang. time to renew the parking brake shoes.
Grendel
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Vermont
post Nov 26 2012, 06:37 AM
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QUOTE (nnatic @ Nov 25 2012, 10:27 PM)
If I avoid using the parking brake until i get this repaired am I safe?
As long as you don't count on that hand brake as being available for emergencies. They should adjust the cable when replacing the shoes.

I sense that my rotor/drum is always removed and the shoes inspected when I get new rear pads. Being in Georgia, I wouldn't think you would have enough moisture/salt/rust to cause this problem already on a 2007. Volvo people have implied that I'm the cause of the problem for not utilizing the parking brake enough to get it warmed up and keep it dried out; but if it's a parking brake . . . . it's not being used while the vehicle is in motion, so I reject that explanation.
QUOTE (nnatic @ Nov 25 2012, 10:27 PM)
While I am at it, my parking brake is darn near useless.
That's why I refrain from even referring to it as an emergency brake; it's so wishy-washy that it will hardly stop my vehicle in 100' at 30 MPH. I've experimented a few times (while taking advice and drying the shoes out), so I know that I may as well open the door and drag my foot on the pavement to come to a "planned" stop. With a much heavier vehicle, yours may have more square inches of friction surface; but I'd imagine that, proportionally, it's just as ineffective.

But as a parking brake, IT WORKS! My car has never moved from a parked position whilst the parking brake was engaged . . . . so that should give you come comfort. I'm not knowledgeable enough to talk about special tools; but I can see that you'll be so much better prepared for the next time, and won't have this excitement to look forward to.
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nnatic
post Nov 30 2012, 11:09 PM
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Hoping to get time this weekend to address this but one last question.

If I press the parking brake and then release it and drive off, i get no sound at all. Only when it sits overnight or for an extended period of time does this make noise.

Do you think an adjustment of the parking brake (it was ABSOLUTELY loose to the point that it would not hold the car before I changed my rear brakes and still is equally as loose now) could resolve this or do we feel it is more likely to be separated parking brake shoes
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nnatic
post Nov 30 2012, 11:09 PM
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Hoping to get time this weekend to address this but one last question.

If I press the parking brake and then release it and drive off, i get no sound at all. Only when it sits overnight or for an extended period of time does this make noise.

Do you think an adjustment of the parking brake (it was ABSOLUTELY loose to the point that it would not hold the car before I changed my rear brakes and still is equally as loose now) could resolve this or do we feel it is more likely to be separated parking brake shoes
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grendel1960
post Dec 1 2012, 05:05 AM
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that sounds as if the cam that opens the shoes is just at the point I described earlier, where the wear on the pads is such that its sitting almost at its widest point of adjustment (could also happen if a shoe liner has come loose) so when you just release it shortly after applying it the lubrication is still working, but overnight has a chance to not be so effective causing the brake to stick on, then movement of the car causes it to slip and release with a bang, you need to get in there and clean it out, replace shoes and add a tiny amount of copper grease to the pivot point to get it all working properly.
Grendel
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Vermont
post Dec 1 2012, 09:49 AM
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One additional comment, which though my S-60 isn't the same as your XC-90, the design characteristics in this area are quite similar.

My vehicle now has over 222,000 miles on it and it's used in the fairly hostile environment of Vermont, so I've replaced the Parking Brake Shoes three (3) times, even though I hardly use the Parking Brake.

This last time, based on my own diagnosis of the "sticking", I bought a new set of shoes but when the mechanic removed the rotor/drum, there was a new surprise . . . . not only had one of the shoe linings fallen off and completely disintegrated; but so had the retraction spring on one side. Apparently the spring is pretty flimsy, and it will rust away to absolutely nothing over time. So I had to also spring (no pun intended) for a spring kit ($15.00) to replace the retraction springs on both sides, and the kit also included some new posts and adjustment wheels.

Just so you don't have this surprise when your vehicle gets a bit older. Some things age as a function of usage; others as a function of time and weather conditions. These springs are certainly in the latter category . . . . because I'm guilty of hardly ever using the Parking Brake.

I had been experiencing a clunking (while driving) coming from the rear-end which I thought was the possibly links on the anti-sway bar, or the bushings on the anti-sway bar (all replaced to no avail) but when I replaced the brake shoes, the clunk was gone. I had not associated that clunking with the Parking Brake I presume that without a good retraction spring present, the shoes were allowed to bounce around inside the drum and make a hollow clunk that could easily be mistaken for almost anything.

Anyway, after 10 years or so, no one should be surprised if they have to replace the retraction springs in addition to the shoes.
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