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> How Do I Take These Nuts Off Egr Valve?
cyrusyn01
post Jun 14 2012, 11:26 PM
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These two nuts, the way they look confuses me a lot. People who have done these before may laugh but I personally never have seen anything like these two.

How do I take off the nuts on the intake port on top in this picture? These nuts looks like two separate nuts with same diameter but they keep turning together. Are these nuts separate ones or one piece?

And there is a nut at the end of the EGR valve body that looks as if it is part of the valve body. Is that one also supposed to turn or is it fixed?

(IMG:http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/7373829660_4b32dcd45a_c.jpg)
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danielm85948
post Jun 15 2012, 07:55 AM
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QUOTE (cyrusyn01 @ Jun 15 2012, 12:26 AM)
These two nuts, the way they look confuses me a lot. People who have done these before may laugh but I personally never have seen anything like these two.

How do I take off the nuts on the intake port on top in this picture? These nuts looks like two separate nuts with same diameter but they keep turning together. Are these nuts separate ones or one piece?

And there is a nut at the end of the EGR valve body that looks as if it is part of the valve body. Is that one also supposed to turn or is it fixed?

(IMG:http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/7373829660_4b32dcd45a_c.jpg)

use two spanners,one to hold it,the other to turn it.both of them are locking nuts,just turn them.were you say does this turn ,reply is no,just hold the spanner on it,then turn the locking nut on the other side of loosen both the locking nuts first.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Nov 8 2012, 03:11 AM
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 15 2012, 12:32 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Jun 15 2012, 05:55 AM)
use two spanners,one to hold it,the other to turn it.both of them are locking nuts,just turn them.were you say does this turn ,reply is no,just hold the spanner on it,then turn the locking nut on the other side of it.


Thank you very much for the quick reply. I will try again today.
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 15 2012, 03:27 PM
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Got the exhaust side nut off. Tackling the intake side. However I don't have a craw foot wrench and have no idea what to use to separate those two nuts. Two spanners aren't strong enough to turn them.

This post has been edited by cyrusyn01: Jun 15 2012, 03:38 PM
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 15 2012, 09:53 PM
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I got the EGR valve off and cleaned it. It was working fine. No gunks built up in it. The tube that connect it to the intake manifold was clogged. Haven't test driven yet. Will let you guys know. Thank you so much for your helps!
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 20 2012, 11:44 PM
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Despite of cleaning up the EGR valve and a tube coming out of it, I don't see any improvements on the fuel milege. City driving used to cost me sub 14 miles and still hovers arond 14. Only good thing is that I don't get ECU codes related EGR any more. What else should I clean? TB?
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danielm85948
post Jun 21 2012, 07:38 AM
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QUOTE (cyrusyn01 @ Jun 21 2012, 12:44 AM)
Despite of cleaning up the EGR valve and a tube coming out of it, I don't see any improvements on the fuel milege. City driving used to cost me sub 14 miles and still hovers arond 14. Only good thing is that I don't get ECU codes related EGR any more. What else should I clean? TB?

clean all of your crankcase breather check your air filter and its box and clean it.
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 21 2012, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Jun 21 2012, 05:38 AM)
clean all of your crankcase breather check your air filter and its box and clean it.


Air filter is clean.
Never heard of this crankcase breather. Where is it?
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danielm85948
post Jun 21 2012, 09:01 PM
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QUOTE (cyrusyn01 @ Jun 21 2012, 05:59 PM)
Air filter is clean.
Never heard of this crankcase breather. Where is it?

just google cleaning your crankcase breather on the volvo 740 and you will get the full details.
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cyrusyn01
post Jun 29 2012, 09:59 PM
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When I lay the oil cap against the oil opening on the valve cover, I feel the oil cap getting sucked in. I assume that there is PCV vacuum pressure in side the motor. Do I still need to clean the crankcase breather?
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danielm85948
post Jun 29 2012, 10:14 PM
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QUOTE (cyrusyn01 @ Jun 29 2012, 10:59 PM)
When I lay the oil cap against the oil opening on the valve cover, I feel the oil cap getting sucked in. I assume that there is PCV vacuum pressure in side the motor. Do I still need to clean the crankcase breather?

look under your inlet manifold,you will see a black box bolted on to your block,two 12mm bolts it is called an oil separator ,remove and clean it,or replace it,do not try to open it,try a coat hanger ,or bit of wire to clean inside then leave in a degreaser ,and let it soak,or replace it,and save the cleaning and clean the hoses from it,the details is on-line.
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doltukun
post Oct 14 2012, 10:38 AM
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thanks for all the information guys
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allexx
post Nov 8 2012, 02:01 AM
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I assume that there is PCV vacuum pressure in side the motor. Do I still need to clean the crankcase breather?

can any body tell me

dainik bhasker

This post has been edited by allexx: Nov 8 2012, 02:06 AM
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danielm85948
post Nov 8 2012, 03:03 AM
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QUOTE (allexx @ Nov 8 2012, 03:01 AM)
I assume that there is PCV vacuum pressure in side the motor. Do I still need to clean the crankcase breather?

can any body tell me

dainik bhasker

you clean the crankcase breather if you are getting oil pushed out of the dipstick light spray.
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danielm85948
post Nov 8 2012, 03:07 AM
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QUOTE (cyrusyn01 @ Jun 15 2012, 04:27 PM)
Got the exhaust side nut off. Tackling the intake side. However I don't have a craw foot wrench and have no idea what to use to separate those two nuts. Two spanners aren't strong enough to turn them.

place an other spanner above the bottom one only one side being the locking nut should move, the other side is just to place a spanner in, soak it first in WD 40.
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cyrusyn01
post Mar 9 2013, 07:01 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 8 2012, 12:07 AM)
place an other spanner above the bottom one only one side being the locking nut should move, the other side is just to place a spanner in, soak it first in WD 40.


It worked! Thank you very much!
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Kiss4aFrog
post Apr 9 2013, 09:53 PM
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Just a note: Don't use WD-40 as a penetrating oil to help loosen parts. It will work but it is far from the best thing to reach for.

WD stands for water displacement. Most people would recommend PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. There are others out there and anything that is sold as and states it's a penetrating lubricant would be a better choice on something that's hard to disassemble. The other thing is WD40 isn't a lubricant.

"WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver.
The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last.
WD-40 can be a good substance to start with — it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite."



I like the PB Blaster best as I'm in an area with cold winters and they use a lot of road salt that causes tons of rust in under hood and under body components.
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