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> S40 O2 Sensor Replacement
HomeInNC
post Nov 25 2012, 12:03 PM
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I'd like to try and replace both O2 sensors in 2006 S40. I've read about how to replace them and I think it's within my limited capability. My trouble begins with locating them.

I've seen diagrams for older Volvos, but not for a 2006. Can anyone help me get started with this? Much appreciated!
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Vermont
post Nov 25 2012, 02:41 PM
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QUOTE (HomeInNC @ Nov 25 2012, 12:03 PM)
I'd like to try and replace both O2 sensors in 2006 S40.

May I ask "why" ?

Are they throwing codes ?

I replaced the heated sensor once and encountered Volvo's shocking MSRP $212.88 for just the Sensor. After that, I started routinely cleaning the Catalytic Converter and the Sensors with lacquer thinner in the fuel to eliminate the codes these items throw when then get carboned up.

It's not like changing the sensors will make it run better; or is it just to make it a feel like a "Greener" Car ?

You should find the "sensors" screwed into the exhaust manifold/pipe before and aft the converter, with 3 or 4 wires coming out of them.
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HomeInNC
post Nov 25 2012, 03:57 PM
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Thanks, Vermont. To answer your first question, yes, they are throwing codes:

P0172 System too rich (Bank 1)
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)

Based on what I could dig up, I believe the first one (P0172) is related to the O2 Sensors. I got a quote to replace them for $600, so I figured I might give it a shot myself.

Your lacquer thinner solution sounds like it fits my skill set better and I'm interested to hear how often/how much you use.

While I appreciate the idea of driving the greenest car possible, that's not my motivation here. I'd just like to be rid of the check engine light.
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Vermont
post Nov 25 2012, 04:46 PM
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It could be that I don't know what I'm talking about; but I think your Oxygen Sensors are working fine; you're just not burning all of the fuel that's being injected into the cylinder(s). I'd try to diagnose that more fully before spending any money; keep that $600 a little longer.

455 relates to the inability to maintain a vacuum in the evaporative system of the fuel tank . . . . often due to just having a dirty gasket on your gas cap. Check it out. All it does is help you make sure the rest of the world doesn't breath your gas fumes; but it makes the vehicle cost about $1000 more to manufacture. If not the gas cap, it could be a leak in the hoses leading to the cannister in the rear where your evaporative gases accumulate before being sent back into the gas tank . . . . another "green" thing.

Meanwhile, the Lacquer Thinner technique is just a direct substitution for some expensive additives they offer on the market for "cleaning" Catalytic Converters; but really all they amount to is the chemical equivalence of generic Lacquer Thinner. More is not better !

I was once scheduled to have my cat replaced for over $1300 (at around 140,000 miles) . . . . so I thought "what the heck, what's to lose; I'll try cleaning it first" so I followed a conservative formula supplied by a guy from south of the Mason-Dixon and waited until I had a hot engine, about 5 gallons of gas in the tank, and needed to take a trip of over 50 miles (google "cleaning catalytic converter"). I poured in about a ½ Gallon of Lacquer Thinner and drove off on my 50 mile trip . . . . during which the CEL went out. That was about 80,000 miles ago, and I still have my $1300 in my pocket. I use the Lacquer Thinner about every time a CEL appears and when the codes are related to the Exhaust System. Volvo won't recommend that; but I'm now at 222,000 and running the original cat.

My motto is . . . . "If it isn't broken, then DON'T BREAK IT ! " (or blow it up) and remember, more is not better !

This post has been edited by Vermont: Nov 25 2012, 05:01 PM
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HomeInNC
post Nov 25 2012, 06:01 PM
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Sounds like you have a track record of success with the lacquer thinner! Thanks for the tip - I'll certainly give it a try along with the advice on the gas cap. Thanks!
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