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> '90 740 Turbo - Pcv Type Issues, Or Worse?, vapor from dipstick, vanishing coolant, etc, etc
jeffz
post Nov 6 2012, 02:51 PM
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I've worked on my 240's years ago, and they were pretty straight forward. I now have a '90 740 turbo and find things to be more alien to me. My issue is that recently we've developed irregular idling. We always had an issue of weeping away coolant, but the other day, a hose burst. I fixed the hose and topped the coolant and added oil. stared blowing vapor from exhaust (didn't smell like coolant) and through the dipstick. Temp gauge then pinned out shortly thereafter. I looked for pcv valve (which doesn't seem to exist, and changed the thermostat. Still pushing vapor from dipstick, but not from exhaust. I shut off the engine at that point to search for answers. I am not a mechanic, but I can fix some things with good advice. These days, I HAVE to fix things myself or start walking to work. Also saw mention of flame trap out there. Is that under the air intake? Looks like it'll be difficult to get out if I need to!
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jeffz
post Nov 6 2012, 04:09 PM
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I just let the car warm up, and the temp gauge is still maxing out.
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danielm85948
post Nov 6 2012, 07:26 PM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 6 2012, 03:51 PM)
I've worked on my 240's years ago, and they were pretty straight forward. I now have a '90 740 turbo and find things to be more alien to me. My issue is that recently we've developed irregular idling. We always had an issue of weeping away coolant, but the other day, a hose burst. I fixed the hose and topped the coolant and added oil. stared blowing vapor from exhaust (didn't smell like coolant) and through the dipstick. Temp gauge then pinned out shortly thereafter. I looked for pcv valve (which doesn't seem to exist, and changed the thermostat. Still pushing vapor from dipstick, but not from exhaust. I shut off the engine at that point to search for answers. I am not a mechanic, but I can fix some things with good advice. These days, I HAVE to fix things myself or start walking to work. Also saw mention of flame trap out there. Is that under the air intake? Looks like it'll be difficult to get out if I need to!

if you look for the oil trap a black plastic box under the inlet manifold,top of that box is the start of your crankcase breather,so take off and clean the box ,above the box is a short rubber hose, just pushed on above that would have been a trap,most of them now removed,looks like a 1 inch plastic mesh,the holder for that is pushed on the hose,a small rubber hose goes to the rear of your inlet manifold,above the holder ,is a rubber hose ,that runs over the top of your camshaft cover,past your oil cap,and on to the hose from your turbo,it is connected to an electrical connection that heats up for your omissions,check the hose for holes from your turbo ,all of the parts is your breather system so clean all of it,next you must take off your inter cooler, that is in front of the radiator, just remove the two large rubber hoses,one each side,now remove the two holding brackets above your radiator,push radiator forward, and lift out your inter cooler, now drain it of small amount of water and oil mix that is from the leaking of your turbo,clean the parts with foot path cleaner,let the parts sit in that mix for about an hour,then in boiling hot water ,to remove the cleaner, and refit, note what you are doing as you take each part off.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Nov 8 2012, 11:05 AM
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jeffz
post Nov 6 2012, 09:20 PM
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Daniel- Sounds promising. I'll try this tomorrow, but what is "foot path cleaner"? I should also note that turbo seems to run properly, and vehicle has normal operating power.

This post has been edited by jeffz: Nov 6 2012, 09:22 PM
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danielm85948
post Nov 6 2012, 10:17 PM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 6 2012, 10:20 PM)
Daniel- Sounds promising. I'll try this tomorrow, but what is "foot path cleaner"? I should also note that turbo seems to run properly, and vehicle has normal operating power.

it is a cleaner you use in a power wash to clean the path up to your house,but any degreaser will do, just that is cheap,yes the turbo will run , but it is pushing the oil water mix into your throttle and down to your ignition plugs, so check them as well as they may need cleaned that is why your inter cooler needs drained as you get smoke out of the exhaust.
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jeffz
post Nov 8 2012, 08:36 AM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 6 2012, 07:26 PM)
if you look for the oil trap a black plastic box under the inlet manifold,top of that box is the start of your crankcase breather,so take off and clean the box ,above the box is a short rubber hose, just pushed on above that would haver been a trap,most of them now removed,looks like a 1 inch plastic mesh,the holder for that is pushed on the hose,a small rubber hose goes to the rear of your inlet manifold,above the holder ,is a rubber hose ,that runs over the top of your camshaft cover,past your oil cap,and on to the hose from your turbo,it is connected to an electrical connection that heats up for your omissions,check the hose for holes from your turbo ,all of the parts is your breather system so clean all of it,next you must take off your inter cooler, that is in front of the radiator, just remove the two large rubber hoses,one each side,now remove the two holding brackets above your radiator,push radiator forward, and lift out your inter cooler, now drain it of small amount of water and oil mix that is from the leaking of your turbo,clean the parts with foot path cleaner,let the parts sit in that mix for about an hour,then in boiling hot water ,to remove the cleaner, and refit, note what you are doing as you take each part off.

Daniel- Sounds promising. I'll try this tomorrow, but what is "foot path cleaner"? I should also note that turbo seems to run properly, and vehicle has normal operating power.
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jeffz
post Nov 8 2012, 08:39 AM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 6 2012, 10:17 PM)
it is a cleaner you use in a power wash to clean the path up to your house,but any degreaser will do, just that is cheap,yes the turbo will run , but it is pushing the oil water mix into your throttle and down to your ignition plugs, so check them as well as they may need cleaned that is why your inter cooler needs drained as you get smoke out of the exhaust.

Sorry about my poor posting abilities here. I haven't been on here for years.

Thank you for the info. I'm excited to dig in. What you are saying makes sense to me.
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jeffz
post Nov 10 2012, 07:19 PM
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Daniel- I didn't want to take the oil trap off as I would have had to pull off the air intake manifold, so taking the easy route first, I degreased the intercooler. Seems to have done the trick for the first test. Let the car warm up for 20 min+ and followed with a ride around the neighborhood. Idled rough at first, but improved back to normal. Still got moisture from tailpipe, but maybe that will disipate as the system purges. Was sluggish when engaged in drive, but that stopped after some driving. Also noticed that the heater blew cold air at idle, but when driving, I slid the control from hot to cold a few times and it engaged. I imagine some goop is working through the heater core? Tomorrow I will change the plugs and run it around town. What do you think?
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danielm85948
post Nov 11 2012, 03:22 AM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 10 2012, 08:19 PM)
Daniel- I didn't want to take the oil trap off as I would have had to pull off the air intake manifold, so taking the easy route first, I degreased the intercooler. Seems to have done the trick for the first test. Let the car warm up for 20 min+ and followed with a ride around the neighborhood. Idled rough at first, but improved back to normal. Still got moisture from tailpipe, but maybe that will disipate as the system purges. Was sluggish when engaged in drive, but that stopped after some driving. Also noticed that the heater blew cold air at idle, but when driving, I slid the control from hot to cold a few times and it engaged. I imagine some goop is working through the heater core? Tomorrow I will change the plugs and run it around town. What do you think?

you should clean the idle control valve, as any gunk from the inter cooler can spray into it,and clean the throttle body,just remove the hose that runs from your throttle body to the right hand side of the inter cooler try throttle body cleaner in both parts, your idle control valve sits under the inlet manifold, in a rubber cage, take it off by removing both hoses from it, and the electrical wire to it, then spray into both the holes of it that the rubber hoses came from, as for being sluggish it would do that if you had still some water in your inter cooler as you are spraying it into your throttle , that in turn would go to your plugs so yes clean or change them, as for your heater blowing cold air you need to bleed the system ,do this by turn on your engine,take off your expansion bottle cap, turn on your heating full blast, open your doors to get rid of the heat, turn on your heater fan up to full, when you have heat replace the cap, as you need pressure for your cooling system, you would be better to flush out your radiator, as you get a build up of dirt and rust in it get a radiator flush pour in to your expansion bottle run it for about 20 miles , now remove the hose from your water pump , and drain it out, pour in hot water in your expansion bottle , that will then drain out of that hose, now refit the hose , and refill with anti freeze, the boiling point is higher, so stop it over heating, now bleed it as i said already.as for your oil trap it can be removed with care , you do not need to remove the inlet manifold, it is done by remove the hoses above it,remove the clamp over your wiring , then you remove the two bolts holding it on,now you lift it up with care try move the heater hose to the side, then lift out, i do mine every 6 months, clean in side it with a bit of wire, to remove the carbon,and degrease it ,then run it under the hot water tap.

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Nov 11 2012, 03:32 AM
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jeffz
post Nov 11 2012, 05:48 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 11 2012, 03:22 AM)
you should clean the idle control valve, as any gunk from the inter cooler can spray into it,and clean the throttle body,just remove the hose that runs from your throttle body to the right hand side of the inter cooler try throttle body cleaner in both parts, your idle control valve sits under the inlet manifold, in a rubber cage, take it off by removing both hoses from it, and the electrical wire to it, then spray into both the holes of it that the rubber hoses came from, as for being sluggish it would do that if you had still some water in your inter cooler as you are spraying it into your throttle , that in turn would go to your plugs so yes clean or change them, as for your heater blowing cold air you need to bleed the system ,do this by turn on your engine,take off your expansion bottle cap, turn on your heating full blast, open your doors to get rid of the heat, turn on your heater fan up to full, when you have heat replace the cap, as you need pressure for your cooling system, you would be better to flush out your radiator, as you get a build up of dirt and rust in it get a radiator flush pour in to your expansion bottle run it for about 20 miles , now remove the hose from your water pump , and drain it out, pour in hot water in your expansion bottle , that will then drain out of that hose, now refit the hose , and refill with anti freeze, the boiling point is higher, so stop it over heating, now bleed it as i said already.as for your oil trap it can be removed with care , you do not need to remove the inlet manifold, it is done by remove the hoses above it,remove the clamp over your wiring , then you remove the two bolts holding it on,now you lift it up with care try move the heater hose to the side, then lift out, i do mine every 6 months, clean in side it with a bit of wire, to remove the carbon,and degrease it ,then run it under the hot water tap.
Had a good day. Removed and cleaned oil trap, idle control and cleaned throttle body(not sure how well since I didn't remove iand cleaned and gapped plugs which didn't look horrible. Ran car around town. Was good for some time, no overheating, but idled a little low after about an hour. I'm running it to work tomorrow to see how it does. Still noticed vapor push through dip stick.
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danielm85948
post Nov 12 2012, 05:34 AM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 11 2012, 05:48 PM)
Had a good day. Removed and cleaned oil trap, idle control and cleaned throttle body(not sure how well since I didn't remove iand cleaned and gapped plugs which didn't look horrible. Ran car around town. Was good for some time, no overheating, but idled a little low after about an hour. I'm running it to work tomorrow to see how it does. Still noticed vapor push through dip stick.

don't remove the throttle , if you turn the drum holding your accelerator cable at the throttle, it will turn your butterfly in the throttle , just just spray in it, with your throttle cleaner .as for your dip stick change the o ring on your dip stick.as for your idle try a bit more cleaner in your idle control valve as it sound like the piston is sticking, it is a gum that builds up, due to the gunk from your inter cooler.

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jeffz
post Nov 13 2012, 05:15 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 12 2012, 05:34 AM)
don't remove the throttle , if you turn the drum holding your accelerator cable at the throttle, it will turn your butterfly in the throttle , just just spray in it, with your throttle cleaner .as for your dip stick change the o ring on your dip stick.as for your idle try a bit more cleaner in your idle control valve as it sound like the piston is sticking, it is a gum that builds up, due to the gunk from your inter cooler.

Ok. Did that with the throttle. Idle has been good. The dip stick doesn't pop out or anything. It's just that when I pull it out slightly, there was aa lot of vabor coming out. Maybe that isn't abnormal? Haven't flushed the cooling system yet. Drove to work 20min ttoday. On the way there, temp gauge started to heat up. I cranked the heat and it went back to normal. On the way home, I checked the reservoir and it wass empty. Added coolant and cranked heat. Barely got any heat. 2 minutes into the drive home, temp gauge maxed out and I started to smell evil burning smell. I pulled over, shut car off, slowly opened radiator cap. It breathed out, but all the coolant was gone (I did see some drops dripping from under the engine, but it wasn't pouring. Tharted the car again. Temp was fine. Drove all the way home. I'm thinking this is all because I haven't flushed the cooling system yet?
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danielm85948
post Nov 13 2012, 09:52 PM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 13 2012, 05:15 PM)
Ok. Did that with the throttle. Idle has been good. The dip stick doesn't pop out or anything. It's just that when I pull it out slightly, there was aa lot of vabor coming out. Maybe that isn't abnormal? Haven't flushed the cooling system yet. Drove to work 20min ttoday. On the way there, temp gauge started to heat up. I cranked the heat and it went back to normal. On the way home, I checked the reservoir and it wass empty. Added coolant and cranked heat. Barely got any heat. 2 minutes into the drive home, temp gauge maxed out and I started to smell evil burning smell. I pulled over, shut car off, slowly opened radiator cap. It breathed out, but all the coolant was gone (I did see some drops dripping from under the engine, but it wasn't pouring. Tharted the car again. Temp was fine. Drove all the way home. I'm thinking this is all because I haven't flushed the cooling system yet?

yes flush it out, but you may need to change the thermostat it may be sticking, and have you changed the expansion bottle cap, the valve can stick , so the pressure then builds up ,and force the water out your heater valve, check both foot wells ,so if the carpets are wet,but do a flush first, do not just add water , it must be anti freeze mix only,that will stop it boiling over.
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jeffz
post Nov 16 2012, 07:19 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 13 2012, 09:52 PM)
yes flush it out, but you may need to change the thermostat it may be sticking, and have you changed the expansion bottle cap, the valve can stick , so the pressure then builds up ,and force the water out your heater valve, check both foot wells ,so if the carpets are wet,but do a flush first, do not just add water , it must be anti freeze mix only,that will stop it boiling over.

Short on time, so I had the local shop do the flush and fill and change the oil while they were at it. Went to pick up the car and It dumped coolant everywhere. They replaced the water pump and reservoir cap. Got the car home, but it runs sluggishly. Also temp went up but didn't break red, then came back. I had changed the thermostat prior to the flush. Could it still be bad?
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danielm85948
post Nov 17 2012, 06:30 AM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 16 2012, 08:19 PM)
Short on time, so I had the local shop do the flush and fill and change the oil while they were at it. Went to pick up the car and It dumped coolant everywhere. They replaced the water pump and reservoir cap. Got the car home, but it runs sluggishly. Also temp went up but didn't break red, then came back. I had changed the thermostat prior to the flush. Could it still be bad?

sounds like it needs bled , you have have air in the system,so start the engine,take off the reservoir cap,put the heating on full,take it they refilled with anti freeze , not just water,look in the cap is it plain water you see , or anti freeze, run the car about five min with the cap off,look at the temp, is it normal now replace the cap, but as for your thermostat, it should be ok,but to test it,get the car running to normal temp ,now try to push in the radiator hoses, if they are hard it is ok,if not then you have a water leak,

This post has been edited by danielm85948: Nov 17 2012, 06:36 AM
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jeffz
post Nov 21 2012, 05:15 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 17 2012, 06:30 AM)
sounds like it needs bled , you have have air in the system,so start the engine,take off the reservoir cap,put the heating on full,take it they refilled with anti freeze , not just water,look in the cap is it plain water you see , or anti freeze, run the car about five min with the cap off,look at the temp, is it normal now replace the cap, but as for your thermostat, it should be ok,but to test it,get the car running to normal temp ,now try to push in the radiator hoses, if they are hard it is ok,if not then you have a water leak,

Ok. did all of that. Got fed up and used Blue Seal. That has been working for the past few days so far. Car is running well overall. Started rough on colder morning, but worked through it quickly with low idle initially. This morning, idle was high after driving for awhile as it didn't want to kick down below 1100 at stops. Didn't repeat that symptom on the way home. I think the idle control valve may need more cleaning. Otherwise, running strong, no tailpipe vapor. Jeff is a happier boy.
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danielm85948
post Nov 21 2012, 08:08 PM
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QUOTE (jeffz @ Nov 21 2012, 05:15 PM)
Ok. did all of that. Got fed up and used Blue Seal. That has been working for the past few days so far. Car is running well overall. Started rough on colder morning, but worked through it quickly with low idle initially. This morning, idle was high after driving for awhile as it didn't want to kick down below 1100 at stops. Didn't repeat that symptom on the way home. I think the idle control valve may need more cleaning. Otherwise, running strong, no tailpipe vapor. Jeff is a happier boy.

yes bit more cleaning of the idle control valve.
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jeffz
post Dec 1 2012, 11:47 AM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Nov 21 2012, 08:08 PM)
yes bit more cleaning of the idle control valve.

I'll do that. Otherwise, the car is now running well. Thank you so much for your expertise. I really appreciate all of your help. Cheers and Happiest Holidays. -Jeff
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