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> Any Wiring Diagrams For A B23f Ecu?
robert240
post Feb 12 2013, 12:31 PM
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QUOTE (danielm85948 @ Feb 12 2013, 12:21 AM)
you can get a noid light set from fcp grotan Robert for $13 that checks the injectors open and close


Yes, I forgot about that. Autozone sells the noid light set for $25.
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 12 2013, 06:06 PM
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I haven't been able to check anything due to some nasty weather having set in here for a couple days. I checked FCP Groton site about the noid light, it's now $20 plus shipping. One of my local auto parts houses have a similar one in stock for $29.99, so I'm going to pick one up. Also, on the issue of fuel pressure; anyone know what the thread size and pitch is for the fuel line compression connector at the fuel rail? My fuel rail does not have a Schrader valve or any other point I can readily use for testing my fuel pressure. I have a 0-100 psi gauge I can readily fit into a 1/4" plumbing tee, but will need to get male and female fittings to adapt it to the fuel line. Worst case, I can go back to P-n-P and purchase the fuel rail and cut the fittings off of it and braze something together. There again, I'm waiting on the weather. Will re-post in a couple days.
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 16 2013, 12:01 PM
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MAJOR SETBACK!!! Weather cleared out, so I prepared to continue by checking engine timing. Removed all 4 plugs, went to turn engine over clockwise by hand using wrench on crankshaft pulley bolt, motor was locked up! I noticed when I was cranking the engine with the starter back on Tuesday, the starter was beginning to sound labored, but I thought then that my battery was starting to get low. My plan was to place my battery on my trickle charger while I verified the timing. I was finally able to get the motor freed up by squirting penetrating oil in all 4 cylinders. So now, my immediate attention is getting and verifying the oil circulating again. My suspicion is the oil pump lost its prime from having set for so long, and the short periods of cranking the engine were not enough for the oil pump to properly get primed, even though the oil pressure light was going out. My question is: is there a procedure for getting the oil pump primed without having to do major disassembly? Since the distibutor and oil pump are driven off of the same gear on the intermediate shaft, can the oil pump be turned by removing the distibutor and turning the pinion shaft, for example, with a slotted extension shaft and a portable drill?
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robert240
post Feb 18 2013, 03:35 PM
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yeah, not good. I have taken out the distributors, which have a cam gear on the end. But I don't remember seeing what the oil pump drive shaft looked like (wasn't paying attention).
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 18 2013, 08:05 PM
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Had a few unrelated issues over the weekend that prevented me from going any further than setting the #1 cylinder to TDC. I plan to remove the distributor tomorrow afternoon to see if I can adapt something to be able to turn the oil pump drive shaft. I'm kind of going from memory on a few older Chevy motors I have been able to get primed by doing that, because they have a slot in the end of the pump drive shaft. Also, I purchased a noid light set, and kind of looking forward to using it.
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robert240
post Feb 19 2013, 12:29 PM
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It looks like the pump has this slot ...

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engi...740-760-780-940
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danielm85948
post Feb 19 2013, 03:31 PM
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QUOTE (mh83volvo244 @ Feb 18 2013, 08:05 PM)
Had a few unrelated issues over the weekend that prevented me from going any further than setting the #1 cylinder to TDC. I plan to remove the distributor tomorrow afternoon to see if I can adapt something to be able to turn the oil pump drive shaft. I'm kind of going from memory on a few older Chevy motors I have been able to get primed by doing that, because they have a slot in the end of the pump drive shaft. Also, I purchased a noid light set, and kind of looking forward to using it.

to get to the oil pump you remove the sump on the bottom of the engine, can you tell me why you need to remove the distributor which has its own shaft gear, would it not be cheaper to get an other engine in a breakers yard that is known to work.
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 19 2013, 10:54 PM
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Danielm85948, you raised a very good question about the distributor gear, and thankfully, I spent some time reviewing Bentley's. You are correct, the distributor and the oil pump are driven from two separate gears on the intermediate shaft, so , I do not need to remove the distributor. However, I still need to prime the oil pump somehow before I can continue trying to get this engine to crank and run, and would prefer to do that with the least amount of dis-assembly/reassembly. I seem to remember seeing a picture on the forum from someone who had removed their flame trap/oil separator assembly, and the oil pump drive gear was accessible. I haven't been able to find the posting, but Robert240 may have further info. If I can access the drive gear pinion shaft for the oil pump, my thought is I would need to remove the shaft, or at least the pinion, to disengage it from the intermediate shaft, and have access to the slot in the top of the shaft of the oil pump. This would allow me to use my cordless drill and a shaft from a flat blade screwdriver to turn the pump only and get the oil to circulate. If this won't work, or, would it be a better option to remove the timing belt and turn only the intermediate shaft until I get oil to the valve train?
The reason I have no interest in getting another motor is I have put a lot of time and money into rebuilding this motor. To be comfortable with a different motor, I would end up doing the same work all over again, and it would be very difficult to explain to my wife why I needed a different engine and at least a gasket set and machine work.
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danielm85948
post Feb 20 2013, 02:35 AM
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QUOTE (mh83volvo244 @ Feb 19 2013, 10:54 PM)
Danielm85948, you raised a very good question about the distributor gear, and thankfully, I spent some time reviewing Bentley's. You are correct, the distributor and the oil pump are driven from two separate gears on the intermediate shaft, so , I do not need to remove the distributor. However, I still need to prime the oil pump somehow before I can continue trying to get this engine to crank and run, and would prefer to do that with the least amount of dis-assembly/reassembly. I seem to remember seeing a picture on the forum from someone who had removed their flame trap/oil separator assembly, and the oil pump drive gear was accessible. I haven't been able to find the posting, but Robert240 may have further info. If I can access the drive gear pinion shaft for the oil pump, my thought is I would need to remove the shaft, or at least the pinion, to disengage it from the intermediate shaft, and have access to the slot in the top of the shaft of the oil pump. This would allow me to use my cordless drill and a shaft from a flat blade screwdriver to turn the pump only and get the oil to circulate. If this won't work, or, would it be a better option to remove the timing belt and turn only the intermediate shaft until I get oil to the valve train?
The reason I have no interest in getting another motor is I have put a lot of time and money into rebuilding this motor. To be comfortable with a different motor, I would end up doing the same work all over again, and it would be very difficult to explain to my wife why I needed a different engine and at least a gasket set and machine work.

if you have done that amount of work on the engine , then you would be better taking off the sump to get to the oil pump, while there check the bearings,i have done a strip down of the engine and rebuild it took 4 days to do so but that was 25 years ago.
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robert240
post Feb 20 2013, 12:50 PM
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Turning the intermediate shaft would probably be the least amount of work. At the same time, you could see if all three sprockets were lined up with their associated marks, verifying timing, to know if that was your original problem.
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 20 2013, 05:34 PM
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Thanks, Robert240. The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to just turn the intermediate shaft. The only two things that will be affected are the oil pump and the distributor. The oil pump is what I need to turn right now, and the distributor will be reset when the timing alignment marks are matched back up. Time to start removing the timing belt...
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mh83volvo244
post Feb 28 2013, 09:46 PM
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FINALLY SUCCESS! Robert240, you were right to suspect timing. After removing the timing belt, and circulating oil, I lined up the intermediate shaft. Lo and behold, the distributor rotor lined up 180 degrees out. Other timing marks were ok. I will complete re-assembly tomorrow, but I feel everything else will be fine. Classic cause and effect kind of thing. Robert240, thank you very much for your insight and advice.
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