2009 and Below S60

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Hi,
I got a fault light and message saying DTSC service required on my S60 T5, followed by a message saying DTSC not working reduce speed. I've booked it into the local dealership who say it needs a new brake sensor. I had hoped it was only an oil change for the modulator. I've been quoted £440 am I getting stiffed and is this likely the problem.

Thanks Kipper.

My turbo sometimes stops working after acceleration.

Switch off the engine and back on and its fine.

I am thinking its the airflow meter?

Anyone had a similar problem?

Podman

I use my PSP constantly in the car for music and it's getting more and more annoying to use the remote to go through my tunes. Does anyone here have a good mounting solution for the Sony PSP in their S60? I prefer not to use a winshield mount due to the high rate of theft from those telltale marks they leave, I'd prefer a non permanent solution as well, something that will mount securely, be within an arms reach for GPS / music / etc. etc. etc. I prefer not to use a vent mount because I do like the A/C blowing on my face as well during the summer. Anyone have a good recommendation for a dash mount that won't leave marks / ruin the center speaker?

Hello to the forum! I am new here but I have always loved Volvos.

I am looking at buying my first but would like some advice. We, me and my wife, are in a bit of a rush to replace our car. We were recently in a car accident which totaled our previous vehicle...because of the accident I am now seriously looking at Volvos.

I looked at a very nice vehicle yesterday....a 2005 S60 T5 AWD...it was in great shape, a very nice looking car. It has 53K miles on it and I was able to see all of the service records. The thing that concerns me is that it has had some major work to it while it was on warranty....everything from transmission to pretty well all front end components...something major was done to this car every 10K miles. It was serviced at Volvo and it test drove fine...I could see no leaks and no noise coming from anywhere. I am worried that this car could be a lemon just based on the amount of work that was done while it was still fairly new....and now it has no warranty.

Oh yeah...asking price $19K (in Alberta, Canada).

Anyone out there with any advice!!!!???? Besides safety reliability is the most important thing in vehicle for me.

Thanks.

Mark.

Twice I've noticed that when I turn my car on, my trip odometer was reset to 0 on both A and B and without my intervention. Anyone else seen this?

Hi,
I purchased a 2001 S60 T5 a couple of months ago and i have grown to love it, i was just curious, Would i see alot of difference if i put a K&N panel filter in or not really?
Cheers

I've read that S60s can have a grinding noise with hard turns and it's tire rubbing but I don't think that's my case. I have a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5 AWD with 16" tires with 38,500 miles on it, it's CPO (onlu 1000 miles in since purchase which aggravates me a little but no biggie), and the vehicle makes a grinding, strange, creaking noise but only when I turn the wheel hard left. Hard right does not replicate the same noise, it's perfectly fine. I did notice that my power steering fluid was low so maybe the dealer didn't top off when I purchased, I added some, thinking the noise would go away but it did not (although I can turn the wheel a lot easier than before).

Thoughts? I'm bringing it to the dealer but I'd thought I'd give the forum a crack / give me an idea what I'm looking and and if it's covered under my CPO warranty.

hey, ive been searching through this forum hoping to find somebody with same problem as im having with s60 d5 2002; but to no avail.
the passenger door went through a stage of not responding everytime to the remote central locking and the elec window wouldnt respond either, this went on and off for a couple of weeks. then it stopped doing both all together!!
now im left with a fantastic motor but am only able to carry backseat passengers.
its possibly the deadlocks rewind motor that has failled(??)but have no idea how to get the dam thing open. has anybody heard of this before and could you point me in the right direction please.
many thanks westy

Hello all,

2001 S60 2.4T 76k on it.

Brake pedal travel seemed to be a bit further than several other volvo's I've driven (an S70, S40, 960, and the new wagon), so I replaced pads on the rear (they were low) and bled the system. This did not fix it. Any ideas?

Secondly, the car was in the shop about 9 or 10 months ago and needed the electronic throttle module to be cleaned because it was stalling. Then, the accelerator pedal needed to be replaced roughly 8 months ago after sending me an "engine system service urgent message".

Now, the car nearly stalled on me once, warm day, just a bit up the road from my home on a slight upward incline, and then a day later I get a "Engine system service required" and a check engine light. Two days after the message appeared it left, and now only the check engine light remains on. Is this a new issue or is the throttle module dirty again and causing complications? Opinions?

Also, when the vehicle is turned off, one of the fans that seems to be near the air filter continues to run for a few seconds(which I believe to be normal), however it is making a noise which can be best described as a rapid clicking. Any ideas here? Going into a reputable dealer (Lehman Volvo, York PA) next week, I'll keep all posted.

Thanks for any feedback or thoughts!

Does anybody know if a set of 18" S60 R pegasus OEM rims would fit on my S60 2.4T? Clearly they would fit but I wanted to be sure of any complications like turning radius or brake disc weight capacity.

If anyone has experience or knowledge here it would be appreciated.
Thanks

Just back from the Volvo dealer, after enquiring as to the cost of getting the front suspension top mounts changed.

Was quoted labour of around £280
And parts quoted at £242

I'm around 90% sure thats what the knocking sound is - but can the mechanic be 100% sure that's what the problem is before they start the job?

I guess that would be around 5-6 hours labour so I suppose it's not the sort of job you would usually attempt yourself?

These are Volvo prices of course, does anyone out there have any idea what sort of price an independant garage might charge to do the job - particularly anyone that's experienced having the same job done in the UK?

2002 S60 Trunk latch will not lock. Is the latch difficult to replace? Three bolts to remove it, two cables: 1. key lock 2. emergency release and one electrical plug for wires. Does the new latch come with cables or do you use the old ones? Are these difficult to attach to latch?
Thanks

Hey guys,


I've always wanted a volvo and am now thinking of taking the plunge.

I've found one I like: http://www.carzone.ie/used-cars/Volvo/S60/car/919611/

Can you give me any advice when buying? What should I look out for? How reliable is this model? Any known problems with them?

Thanks,
M

What are the torque specs for replacing S60 ball joints, ie. ball joint retaining bolts and ball joint Nut?

Ok, somebody please tell me how to remove the radio from a 2004 S60.. I understand removal of the console lid, pen holder etc. But when I remove the two screws at the bottom of the heater panel, pull out and down - nothing happens. I really don't want to destroy this panel.

All I am trying to do is connect the antenna lead from a Sirius player to the back of the radio - this really shouldn't be too difficult.

Thanks!!

Mike

Ok - my car is doing something that I have never heard of before. The digital clock in the instrument panel resets its self. Heres the brief on what happens.

1. Clock resets its self, it starts counting the time down backwards untill it hits a (random) time.
2. I reset the time on the clock, and it stays and works fine.
3. I shut car off.
4. I turn car back on, AND THE CLOCK COUNTS DOWN BACKWARDS TO THE TIME IT WAS AT! The time it is showing is about 7 hours behind my time.

Anyone have any ideas? I might try to get a video of it if the explanation wasn't enough.

Hi, would be grateful for any advice. Have 2002 volvo s60. Warning "bulb failure parking light" came on soon after replacing all dead parking light bulbs. All parking lights on right hand side are out (front and rear). 7.5A fuse was blown (number 31 passenger compartment fuse panel) replaced it and it blows immediately when the lights are turned on. Tried replacing fuse several times and blows immediately. Removed ALL parking light bulbs from right side in case it was a bulb problem, but fuse still blows immediately. There must be a short circuit somewhere, but can't see why this should suddenly occur. Is there a relay in the parking light circuit which could be responsible, or any other thoughts on a possible solution?
Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Hi there

I have an S60R with continual fuse problems. Lost all parking and brake lights a few weeks back - replaced blown fuses and all was O.K. for a while.
Now have lost l/h parking lights - replaced blown fuse but when I go to turn lights on it blows immediately (tried twice so it's not an isolated problem).
Also, self levelling headlights keep pointing down - checked fuse and that is O.K.
Anyone any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix?
Thanks

Hello,
My S60 has really bad AM radio reception. I heard there is a brass strip fix. Does anyone have more information.
Thanks,
S Sig

Greetings all,

just wanted to say hi, and thanks for such a nice & informative forum to browse! I just purchased my first ever Volvo, a 2006 S60 2.5T AWD, took delivery yesterday and all I can say is nice. Looking forward to (hopefully) many happy years together.

Just not 100% sure about something, since I've never owned a turbocharged vehicle - and despite the dealer telling me it's 'normal' (and having Volvo warranty till 2012), I wanted to hear from other S60 drivers. When starting the car, as well as turning it off, I can hear a definate spinning up and spinning down of what I would imagine is the turbo (sounds like a jet starting its engine, but not nearly as loud). At start, it's a turbine 'whirl' sound, that disappears & blends in with engine noise once it reaches speed...at engine stop, it sounds the same, but whirling down for maybe around 15 seconds or so after the engine is off. It's isn't sqeaky or overly noisy...just something I've never had on previous cars.

So, is this in fact the vanes of the turbo...and is it normal to hear them spinning up & down? The manual says to run at idle for a few minutes after 'hard' driving to let the compressor cool. For more normal city driving, is it ok to just park & stop?

Also, some confusion with the type of headlights on this car - the Volvo dealer's ad (was a pre-owned Volvo certified purchase) for this car said bi-xenon, but then the salesman said they weren't. Driving at night for the first time yesterday, I could tell that just by the crisp white beam color, they weren't regular halogen...the bulb looks like a xenon strobe tube with an outer metal wire running into the tip of the bulb. Clicking the high beam looked like a a shutter was moving up and down. So, are these in fact bi-xenon or not?

Thanks!

The plastic directly behind bumber is damaged and needs to be replaced. Do I need to disconnect air bag sensors? Where are they located and how do you disable? This due to passenger side of car being hit. Air bags did not deploy but headlight assembly, fendor and this plastic piece need to be replaced.

Ok this is an 01 non-turbo S60. Will there be any noticeable difference between 87 and 91/93 gas or should I just save my money? what are your guys' experiences with this? I have heard that higher octane can actually boost milage, is that true?

Thanks

I lost my 2004 Volvo S60 keys. I bought a new one from a dealer in the US. There is no dealer in my country to program the key. What else can I do to start the car. The key turns the ignition on and can roll the widows but cannot start.

Before I found this forum, in my haste to fix the position bulb failure, I stupidly thought that the side marker light was the position light. Not being very smart again I forced the side marker light out of its holder, thereby breaking the plastic retention piece that holds the side light in. What to do? Should I buy a new unit? I actually can't determine how it would now work. Suggestions?

Need so direction, i have a 2004 S60 AWD and the medal spring clip that releases the Fuel Filler Door broke. Where can i get a replacement? do i have too replace the entire Fuel Filler door or can i just get the clip? I can still open the Fuel Filler Door, but it's not spring loaded any more i have to manually pull the door open to fuel the car.

thx
Mike

Just to let you guys know: the Volvo S60R is capable of easily out running the Ford Crown Victoria P71 Police Interceptor.

(No, I wasn't being pursued, and I am not currently a fugitive from Justice)
(Yes, it was an in service, marked patrol unit, not some auctioned piece of crap)

So I have recently replaced the front suspension control arm bushings (4) and in the process broke the driver's side CV boot but had it replaced with no problems.

Only a couple of days after getting the CV replaced I noticed some noise coming from the passenger side. It sounds like its coming from somewhere close to that front wheel. At first it sounded to me a lot like metal clanging against metal - a thick "THUD" with a bright metallic sound. It vibrated throughout the car whenever I went over any bump (or any sort of unevenness on the road going 35mph+) so I figured it had to be two pretty big pieces of metal hitting.

I got under the car and decided to replace the front control arm rear bushing nuts and bolts (one was bent and they needed to be replaced). I replaced with same size nuts and bolts with washers and lock washer, figuring the sound was made by the bolt clanging up against the front suspension. But the sound stayed.

I looked at the control arms and thought maybe when replacing the bushing I didn't push it in far enough and the control arm was clanging against the suspension on the passenger side, but when I looked at the driver's side it was the same distance but no sound.

I just have recently noticed that it almost sounds like a spring - every time I accelerate somewhat moderate-aggressively it sounds like a spring decompressing in the front pass. side and creaking. Same sound when I brake somewhat rough.

To recap:

- Sounded first like 2 big pieces of metal hitting each other
- Replaced control arm nuts & bults, no change
- Only on Passenger front side, sounds like near the wheel or wheel well
- Moderate-aggressive accel. from stop makes sound like creaking, or spring decompressing
- Moderate-aggressive braking makes sound like creaking, or spring compressing.

Is it possible that the front pass. spring needs to be replaced? Or is it something else?

First off, im new here so hello all!

2001 Volvo s60 5T (US)

My millage is horrid, I get my average MPG from tank size/miles per tank (I use the trip) I normally get 350 miles to a tank if I drive nice, that about 17-18 mpg. The cars built in gauge tells my I get 16.9 mpg.

Anywho, I use 91 obtain, and for the last 3 tanks have used a shot of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.

Is this normal?

Hi
I have 2001 s60 and when idling with air con turned on, the air con tends to draw major power from the engine causing the revs to dip in and out and all power seems to be drawn to the air con. Once air con turned off no problems. can any one help?
Cheers
Baldybonce

I have a 2001 volvo s60 and i don't have the premium package but i know i still have wiring for it any idea where i can get volvo speakers with the extra output plug so the speakers will work

Not sure if the is a "feature" of my R, or a worn part.

Whenever I shift or let the clutch out with any torque on the drive train I get a soft, but definite clunk from the front.

My suspicion is a worn motor mount, but if I was so sure I wouldn't be begging for help again!

I just purchased a pre owned 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD that I'm in love with, got it certified by a Volvo dealer and have the extended warranty on it. I have the steering wheel problem that a lot of people have talked about before but I can't seem to find a solution for air conditioning.

Maybe it's just a normal noise, but whenever I turn on the AC, it has this quiet but audible grinding noise, it could just be the compressor and it's normal noise, but for some reason it's only noticeable and gets louder between 1500 and 2000 RPMs, if I drive around and hold the car in that range, the noise gets louder and louder. It does not happen when the AC is off.

Any ideas what the cause of the noise might be? I doesn't happen all of the time (of course) but maybe someone else has noticed the same phenomena?

So I spent the majority of last week replacing my front suspension bushings, which took a lot more muscle then I expected (I broke two 3000lb vices!).

In the process I of course had to mess with the ball joint and the CV joint. I know that I put a very small puncture in the CV boot and the very next day took it to the shop to get the boot replaced. I had drove less than 10 miles on it, and since the CV was still good, I convinced them to just replace the boot.

But now I'm hearing a clicking noise from the other side of the car (pass. side).

In the process of replacing the bushings I opted to not remove the wheel hub. I instead disconnected the control arm and pulled the CV Joint out of the transmission with a firm yank and worked around it.

My question is if there is any way i damaged the CV Joint in the process? Is it possible I separated the joint when I yanked it?

Also I can't get the car repaired until this weekend, is it fine for the rest of the car if I keep driving it? I figure if the joint is bad I'm going to have to just get it replaced, so I figure no harm no foul in driving it if only the joint is getting damaged.

BY THE WAY that new movie Wanted is terrible don't go see it.

60mph, on a straight, two-lane (each way) road...

I'm in the left lane, chillin, when a Grand-Am decides to pull on from the right, and cross over into my lane at about five miles an hour.

Clutch and brake both get stomped, at least three of Volvo's acronyms kick in-

(ABS DTSC EBD BBQ ETC),


-and the R halts faster than I ever thought possible.

A lot of talk goes around about how to make these tanks hustle, I'd like to humbly ask that brake upgrades be considered equally with the zoomy parts.

Had I been in the 240, I'd either have punted that Grand-Am into the future, or be waiting for a tow truck to fish the wagon's carcass out of the weeds.

Thank you. -JMG

Hi guys. I am coming from a strictly Japanese world. My Honda Accord 2005 just got stolen and I want to get another car. There has been a recent rave in car theft and the Japanese cars have been the target. I chose the VOlvo because they arent as flashy as the Toyotas and Hondas, yet they are more luxurious. Please tell me what the main differences are between the Japanese and Swede giants.
Thanks all.

OK after a 20 year hiatus from Volvo's (my favorite car ever was my '79 242, 4-speed.. oh, what fun the Minnesota snow...) I'm back.. with a 2007 2.5 S60 2.5T AWD and love it... well, my wife loves it, I just get to stare at it... She puts 80+ miles a day on it and could not be happier. If we had gone with the R I might not have all these question but she wanted more cushion less sport... oh, well.

That's a little of the background as this is my first post. So, now for all the questions...

Not being able to leave well enough alone, I am interested in the upgrade options... It will be 3 years before she wears out the brakes but I figure I might as well start to collect the parts now..

So what this Porsche caliper and discs on a Volvo all about??

What are the specs on the R brakes??

Better yet, where is a good source of specs for OEM parts as a starting point.. all the off-sets, clearances, etc. I've seen a variety of disk diameters from 280 to 305 to 332 mm and a bunch of thicknesses.

Anybody use the Stop-Tech upgrade?? Good Bad, Indifferent?? Based on the catalog, not sure they offer much for late model Volvo... and there were no prices... if they in the Brembo range, they would be selling darn few...

Well that should keep me busy for a while... appreciate the advise...

HELP!!
Just purchased some 18" Volvo Nebula REPLICA wheels from Ebay. Ad said they were 38 mm offset and that they would fit my car. Purchased 235/40/18 tires as indicated by dealer and now I have rubbing on inside of fender in rear wheels when transporting 2 adults in the backseat. Anyone know what offset I should be using?
I see where IPD sells same wheel, but advertises a 43mm offset. Would 5mm make enough of a difference??

thx
m