2009 and Below S60

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I had my first service done away from the Volvo dealership. 2004 S60 AWD

Do any of you know how to reset the service required message. (Canadian model).

The sales rep is trying to find this out for me as well. He knows it involves the pressing of the trip computer button and while holding in another button.


Thanks in advance for any help. If I find out on my own I will post here.

brianf

OMG this is such a releif. I was begining to ponder the thought that I would have to take my xenons out and put my old halogens back in for state inspection. I could go to a non-volvo shop but they would still notice the bulb failure message and little orange triangle in the dash and probably not pass my inspection or ask me why if they could not figure it out which of course they could cause of the good ol OBDII. Plus that little light is annoying as hell and I hate driving with malfunction lights or other similar lights on. So i scoured the net trying to find that one fix. Well the light has appeared at the end of the tunnel, LOL. The funny thing about it is that the fix is soo easy. Sorry for the overjoyful intro but here is the fix:
DIY Resistor By the way, in case you are wondering about that hole drilling technique proposed by XenonValot, it ONLY works when you run straight off the battery and not through a relay which in my opinion is risky. If your kit has a wiring harness with fuses attached to it then you have a relay and this will eliminate the message. All it involves is a 10-watt 1 ohm wire wound resistor from Radio-Shack which costs $1.79. A pack of male quick disconnecting pins part#(64-3038)that you can crimp onto a wire costs $1.69. Make sure that the male connectors are the square type and you will also need some 14-gauge wire which radio shack only carried speaker wire in that size. So I went to Lowes and got a spindle of 14-gauge tin plated copper wire for about $7. If you don't alreay have one, buy a crimping/stripping tool, it will save you lots of time. Just follow the schematic and you should have error free xenons in no time! All in all it took me a little over an hour cuz some of the wires i cut were too short. Ohh it also helps to have the actual shunt resistor from the CEM with you so you can get an idea for the length of the wires. Once you build the resistor you may notice that the connectors are a little loose when you plug them into the CEM. For now i just put a piece of electrical tape over the resistor and the connected wires to hold it in incase it comes loose. I am in the process of figuring out a way to tighten the connection. Any questions PM me or reply to this thread. GOOD LUCK!!!!!

I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavly, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesnt stop to rain. Also, if I dont step on the accelerator, the sound goes away.
I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but havent been able to replicate the sound.
Is this something other Volvo owners are/were experiencing. I would appreciate it if I could get some insight on what could be wrong since it only happens sometimes.

Thanks

Also some emails have asked me to explain how to replace the cabin air filter. This too is easy. For anyone who is interested, therese are the steps:

(1) purchase a new cabin air filter. You can get this at ipdusa.com. They're about 30 dollars.

(2) remove the old CAF. This is located under the glove box near the footwell light. You can get to the filter by removing the plastic covering under the glove box. This is held in by 2 torx screws. Remove this, and you've reached the CAF.

(3) slide out the old CAF.

(4) slide in the new one. Really, there's nothing more than that.

You'll notice cleaner air almost immediately. It's definetly worth it. I would change the CAF every 5th or 6th oil change.

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

IF YOUR AIR CON SYSTEM IS MAKING WHISTLING SOUNDS
[attachmentid=3181]
AIR INTAKE ADJUSTMENT
[attachmentid=3182]
RESOLVING BRAKE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3183]
CLUTCH LINE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3184]
ETM CLEAN/RESOLVES ROUGH IDLE
[attachmentid=3186]
NOISY GEAR LEVER
[attachmentid=3187]
OIL PUMP REPAIR
[attachmentid=3188]
RE-CIRCULATION DOOR ADJUST
[attachmentid=3189]
DASHBOARD SPEAKER
[attachmentid=3190]
VVT VALVE CLEANING AND REPAIR
[attachmentid=3191]


PS:if any admin out there ..please can you make this a sticky post please

Hey all Volvo drivers! I read a lot of post about this tire rubbing issue when the steering is turned completely left or right. I experienced this rubbing problem on my 2001 S60 T5 with 78k miles. I have the factory upgrade 17 inch wheels wrapped with 235/45ZR17 General Exclaim UHP tires. The tire rubbing noise was getting annoying so I called my local Volvo dealership. The service tech guy was nice enough to explain to me what might cause the rubbing since I have 78k miles on my car. He said that the rubber steering stop tends to wear out over time so he suggested that I try replacing the steering stop. So today I replaced two new steering stops(see attached pictures) myself for about $35. Went for a test drive doing a complete left and right turn and the tires seems to still rub. However it was still bothering me. As I was scratching my head, suddenly a light bulb came on! There is this piece of metal inside the front fender well (see attached pictures) where the tire rubs against it that I opt to remove. There is no gap or anything that concerns me after the piece has been removed (see picture) so my car should be fine. Of course, remove the piece at your own risk. At last I took it for a test drive again doing a full circle turning left and right and what do you know, NO MORE TIRE RUBBING!!

[attachmentid=2993] Right passenger fender
[attachmentid=2994] Inside fender well where tire rubs
[attachmentid=2995] Inside piece removed
[attachmentid=2996] Inside the fender after the piece has been removed
[attachmentid=2997] worn steering stop
[attachmentid=2998] new steering stop replaced
[attachmentid=2999] My ride!

Hi all,
I'm canvassing for opinions on whether I should have the manual transmission fluid in my 03 S60 with 57K miles changed. It's not an item on the maintenance schedule, but I was wondering what your thoughts were -- and if you think it should be changed,at what mileage. Thanks for any opinions.

Ed

Hi, I know it probably is a classic topic here in the forum, I've read lot of threads regarding the wheel bearing debate. And now I am actually having one!

I have a 2004 S60 2.5T AWD, I've put 30,000km on this baby since I got it on 100,000km, I noticed a rotational humming sound from the rear right on day 1 and I thought it was the low profile sport tyres (235/45R17). When time goes on, it gradually developped and now it is more pronounced at lower speed, most noticable at 50-60km/h. It comes from the rear right (I tried to sit in the back seat changing my position in between the left and the right, it is louder in the right) and its frequency changes related to the speed of the vehicle.

Here's what I have done so far:

At 126,000km I had the car booked for an oil change at my Volvo dealer, I change oil every 6,000km despite Volvo recommends every 12,000km. The dealer told me that I had two wheel bearings started to go, one on the left driver's front and one on the right rear. Dont know how did they test the bearings but I don't hear a thing from the front anyways. I didn't let them replace them as I wanted to have the tyres replaced first to rule out the tyres.

Two weeks ago, I had all 4 tyres replaced and did computer alignment, brand new Conti Extreamcontact, very nice tyres by the way. (found uneven wear on the old ones especially on the inside, they were rotated regularly, they did cause some vibration at 90-110km/h as some of them have lumps on the tread, the front and rear toe was a bit off too, car pulls to the right on high ways) The road noise is significantly decreased and the controling is better than before especially the steering, it does not pull to the right any more, but the rotational humming noise is still there.

Then I started to test the wheel bearings by listening to the noise when doing sharp left and right turns at an empty parking lot. The noise dose NOT change when the bearing is loaded or unloaded partially.

I had a service tec test drive the car and he said it does not sound like wheel bearing to him, it could be brake pads (I also noticed that S60R has the famous pads resonance sound), but the sound dose NOT change tone or disappear when the brake (He tried both service or parking) is applied.

It gets a bit louder than before but still not unbearable yet, and it seems not noticable in the cold morning and gets worse when the ambient temp goes up in the afternoon.

What can the next step be to find the root cause, I don't want to replace parts without solving the problem. I will try to put the car on the hoist let all wheels off the ground and drive it in gears, I suppose the rear wheel will rotate as it is an AWD and I can sit in the car to listen if the humming is still there, if it is not, it rules out the brakes and drive shafts or tranny, then I will go ahead to replace the rear right wheel bearing. If it is still there, I will have the brakes and drive shaft inspected.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Could that be normal on AWDs? It bothers me more and more since I noticed it and I can't help pay attention to it every time when I am driving in the car.

Thanks alot!

hi all been to rolling road today my afrs are still showing up to lean guy says as i fitted it my self the maf needs to be set back up with the ecu has anybody got any info on this
thanks roy

Long time searcher of the forum's--first time poster. Have a 2001 s60 T5 with 85K miles on it.

While driving at specific speeds (usually 40-45 or 60-65) notice car shaking and shuttering. It is not all times but sporadic and especially when there appears to be a load on the car (ie: up a hill). The shake is violent enought to make you stop and take notice, thinking the car is going to just die or fall apart. It will last for some time at these speeds.

Had it in to the dealer about 8 mos ago and after $800 problem appeared to be solved but is back after a few months. They replaced cracked coil packs and did a TCM upgrade among other things.

Based on my looking in the forum, my thoughts are motor mounts (but would expect the problem then at all speeds when torque is applied), possible ECM issue or tranmission going south.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated as well as how to isolate since I have never trusted the local dealer.

Think my upper engine mount is shot. Looking at the FCP Groton site I found the followingRedesigned engine mount. Should I replace the bushing or just get the entire new setup? Also, is it a simple bolt off/bolt on procedure?

Hi, I have a 2002 S60 AWD and I need to replace the turbo and froont driver's side wheel bearing (entire hub apparently).

Has anyone ever done either of these projects on an AWD before?

Any tips or copies of the service manual would be very much appreciated.

2003 S60

my wife bought this car new and we've had to change the headlight bulbs numerous times

i have a dead headlight right now and this is at least the 6th time since 2003
and while i seem to recall the driver's side being the biggest problem, the pass. side has burned out as well

i don't think i've had to change bulbs on a any other car more than once before

is this a known issue with Volvo cars burning through headlights?

My steering column is making a groaning noise (that's the best way to describe it) when I turn the wheel. It is intermitent. It seems to happen the most at low speeds and in tight turns. I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel, and sometimes, I swear, down near my feet.

I've searched the forum, but found nothing that matched.

It is definitely something I can live with, but it is annoying. Hopefully it'll go away on its own. I hope it is nothing as serious as needing a new steering column, which I imagine would be super expensive.

Any suggestions? I'm not above spraying some WD40 on the thing, if only I knew where to spray it.

Will be taking delivery on wife's '06 S60 2.5 T AWD in a few days. Here's the dealer ad.
http://www.hudsonvalleyvolvo.com/preowned/...1RH592362502560
I hope my screen name doesn't offend you all. I have been restoring a '70 F350 for the last few years and am on a bunch of Ford truck forums, so it is easy for me to use the same log in everywhere I go.
I am not new to Volvo. The first family car I remember was dad's '72 145. Sadly, he fell asleep and ran it into a parked car at about 40 mph in '76. The car sacrificed itself to allow my my father, my sister, and me to walk away unscathed. The '72 was replaced with a '73 145. We had the '73 until about '83 when we got a '74 145. The '74 became my car when I started driving in '86. We had it until '90 when we sold it for $200 with 206,000 or so miles on it and I bought my first of 4 Ford trucks (at least they are in the same family now). My father drove an '83 wagon for a few years, and my sister and her family had a very nice '96 wagon until they got their current '06 S60 R. Boy, have they changed over the years!
I hope to do most maintenance and what ever repairs I can on this car myself, and it looks like I should be able to get some guidance here.

New (to me) owner of a 2003 S60. Really happy with the car so far. The cupholder lid is broken and from quickly reading online, it looks to be a chronic problem with a poor design. Looking around, I see the design has changed from the pop-up lid to a roll-up lid. Is it possible to replace the cupholder with a newer model version that has the roll-up lid? I would guess that the answer is no but figured I would ask before spending the $150 that the dealership wants for a new cupholder.

Reset the service light using the instructions on this forum and saw this 2 service codes pop up

045

057

any idea what these codes refer to?

Newbie here - I searched the boards and did several Google searches and I can't find anyting specifically related to how to remove the front seat head restraints on a Volvo S60 (I have a 2004 2.5T AWD). Now, before folks get worked up with telling me how the head restraints are important to the WHIPs system and safety - I understand. Somebody must have removed their head rest to install a DVD screen, adjust, etc. The local install shop said they could probably 'foam up' the back of the head rest and add a plate to allow for a DVD screen, but they didn't know how to remove the headrest either. I've tried poking and prodding all over the back seat and couldn't find anything resembling a "release lever" - I found the two square indents directly below the head rest (about 5 inches down), but those didn't do anything. Thanks in advance for everyone's assisstance

I ran into someone selling a performance technique 12" Sub and a 600w Amp (4 channel i believe) for only $40. It was a on the spot type deal and i took it. I dont know anything at all about getting this thing in my car and working. Ive been trying to reading around trying to see if i could find a tutorial but no luck. Will this work in my '02 Volvo S60 2.4T? I believe i have the HU-603, but im not positive. there is no amp under the passenger seat so it wouldnt be the upgraded one. Someone posted that they bought a sub+amp and it wasnt compatible, so im a little worried. Would anyone happen to know where i could find a step by step instructional on how to get this thing bumpin??

Any and all replies are appreciated!

Volvo S60 2.4T

When i drive i get a very ANNOYING squeek. I took it to a friend who is a mechanic (inexperienced with volvos) and asked him what it could be. He opened the engines and quickly pointed at the Strut Mount Bushings. I then called the volvo dealership and tried to see if they knew anything. they also said it was the strut mount bushings that needed to be replaced, and they are about $50. But ide like a third opinion for you guys =)





The only thing i could tell you is it squeeks very loud when i go over bumps. and also i can spin the top part around (the other one doesnt spin at all). when i twist it, it squeeks and then will grind and go back to squeeking.

Today i need to fix it because i cant take it any longer. so any and all replies would be highly appreciated. thanks!

AIM - Cliche2Believe

I am interested in purchasing an S60. Today I saw a 2008 service loaner. What is the expected discount from list on a service loaner with 12,000 miles? Is there a fixed Volvo dealer suppport?
Thanks

Hello all,

I'm new to the forum, but have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.

I am having problems with my message centre and my indicator. The message centre won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.

The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive.

Does anybody know if there is a fix to this? a reboot maybe?

Any help would be appreciated.

My S60 2.5t has just started to make a hissing noise that appears to be coming from the drivers footwell. The noise occurs the whole time the engine is running and only stops when the brake pedal is pressed. It also carries on for a few seconds after the engine has been turned off. Has anyone any ideas???

Loan a car to a friend.... and the sunroof dies.

(I have horrible tortures planned for him- don't worry)

I've heard it could be either the motor, the switch, the control module, or even the alarm!

Anyone care to weigh in on where I should start?

I recently inherited a 2001 S60 from my sister, and so far it's a mixed bag. I like the quality of the ride for a small car, and I like the gas mpg which seems to be around 30 on the road, but there are numerous fixes that are expensive, including front suspension and now a temperature sensor and thermostat replacement in the water system that cost $377 (including flush and fill).
I'm still having a problem with that bulb position error coming on, and the power door locks don't work. Unfortunately there's no fuse specified for doorlocks. Also the fuel filler door is locked shut and can't be unlocked by unlocking the driver's side front door as the manual states. So I'm going to have to go back over to the mechanic to see if he can fix it. Hopefully, once those issues are resolved I can get back to driving it without worrying.
Louis

Hi guys, Newbie here

This morning i got to my S60 D5 and the clutch pedal was stuck in the up position. I pushed it down and it loosened but did not come back up and didn't engage the clutch.

I took it to a garage and they said the Slave cylinder has blown in the gearbox and the fluid had flooded the clutch so i need a new clutch and slave cylinder.

Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance

Dom

if you guys remeber me i recently asked about an R verse t5 as a replacement for my wifes car. not finding an s60r she liked I'm considering selling my explorer to get an R or t5. Thing is I race 4 wheelers and we have a jet ski as well and I will need to be able to move those around. anything will tow the jet ski its light.

my 4 wheeler trailer is a 5x12 open and i put two quads and a dirt bike on it (2500-2800lb) can I tow this with the R? Ive never been one to tow trailers with cars but you do what you have to I suppose.

is the hitch for these class 2 or 3. I have a class two on my ex which is rated at 3500LB and looks like the s60 has a 3300lb capacity.

any one towed with an R? it has better brakes then my truck, only 4 less inches of wheel base and more torque available sooner so I would think it would do good but wanted to see if anyone has ever done it.

I do go down dirt roads to get to some area's but wide fire roads of clay/sand ive taken fwd cars down before so ill just have to pay attention to ground clearance which is sort of a non issue.

I recently bought this official 2004 DVD screen headrest off ebay:



I was hoping that the unit would come with industry standard connectors so that I could connect it to a DVD player, it seems they are proprietary...

The unit has 2 leads, one thin cable terminates in a Female connector roughly the size of a small microphone 'jack', the second is a reasonably thick cable comprising lots of coloured wires, this ends in a 'square block' snap in connector.

The only paperwork is a Volvo packing checklist which states that the conversion was done by Volvo in 2004 and the includes "screen data looms", there is no contact details of where this was done

Can anyone shed light on whether I can get this screen working?

PS I'm in the UK.

Thanks!!

Jim

I just bought a 04 s60 and the remote won't open the trunk. Anyone know how to resolve this? Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what the proper spark plug gap should be for a
2002 S60 2.4 Turbo.
Also would you reccommend OEM plugs or another brand?

Thanks

Philv

Hi every one volvo lovers

Got a situation here.

Have an 2005 volvo s60 2.0.t BSR. origin UK. having miles on the clocks and fuel consumption in MPG's is a bit pain in ****

As I'm in Cyprus we have kilometers instead of miles. Has any one (heard about or) converted the miles per gallon to liters per 100kilometers on the board computer?

Thanks anyway!