2009 and Below S60

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavly, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesnt stop to rain. Also, if I dont step on the accelerator, the sound goes away.
I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but havent been able to replicate the sound.
Is this something other Volvo owners are/were experiencing. I would appreciate it if I could get some insight on what could be wrong since it only happens sometimes.

Thanks

Also some emails have asked me to explain how to replace the cabin air filter. This too is easy. For anyone who is interested, therese are the steps:

(1) purchase a new cabin air filter. You can get this at ipdusa.com. They're about 30 dollars.

(2) remove the old CAF. This is located under the glove box near the footwell light. You can get to the filter by removing the plastic covering under the glove box. This is held in by 2 torx screws. Remove this, and you've reached the CAF.

(3) slide out the old CAF.

(4) slide in the new one. Really, there's nothing more than that.

You'll notice cleaner air almost immediately. It's definetly worth it. I would change the CAF every 5th or 6th oil change.

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

I had my first service done away from the Volvo dealership. 2004 S60 AWD

Do any of you know how to reset the service required message. (Canadian model).

The sales rep is trying to find this out for me as well. He knows it involves the pressing of the trip computer button and while holding in another button.


Thanks in advance for any help. If I find out on my own I will post here.

brianf

OMG this is such a releif. I was begining to ponder the thought that I would have to take my xenons out and put my old halogens back in for state inspection. I could go to a non-volvo shop but they would still notice the bulb failure message and little orange triangle in the dash and probably not pass my inspection or ask me why if they could not figure it out which of course they could cause of the good ol OBDII. Plus that little light is annoying as hell and I hate driving with malfunction lights or other similar lights on. So i scoured the net trying to find that one fix. Well the light has appeared at the end of the tunnel, LOL. The funny thing about it is that the fix is soo easy. Sorry for the overjoyful intro but here is the fix:
DIY Resistor By the way, in case you are wondering about that hole drilling technique proposed by XenonValot, it ONLY works when you run straight off the battery and not through a relay which in my opinion is risky. If your kit has a wiring harness with fuses attached to it then you have a relay and this will eliminate the message. All it involves is a 10-watt 1 ohm wire wound resistor from Radio-Shack which costs $1.79. A pack of male quick disconnecting pins part#(64-3038)that you can crimp onto a wire costs $1.69. Make sure that the male connectors are the square type and you will also need some 14-gauge wire which radio shack only carried speaker wire in that size. So I went to Lowes and got a spindle of 14-gauge tin plated copper wire for about $7. If you don't alreay have one, buy a crimping/stripping tool, it will save you lots of time. Just follow the schematic and you should have error free xenons in no time! All in all it took me a little over an hour cuz some of the wires i cut were too short. Ohh it also helps to have the actual shunt resistor from the CEM with you so you can get an idea for the length of the wires. Once you build the resistor you may notice that the connectors are a little loose when you plug them into the CEM. For now i just put a piece of electrical tape over the resistor and the connected wires to hold it in incase it comes loose. I am in the process of figuring out a way to tighten the connection. Any questions PM me or reply to this thread. GOOD LUCK!!!!!

IF YOUR AIR CON SYSTEM IS MAKING WHISTLING SOUNDS
[attachmentid=3181]
AIR INTAKE ADJUSTMENT
[attachmentid=3182]
RESOLVING BRAKE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3183]
CLUTCH LINE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3184]
ETM CLEAN/RESOLVES ROUGH IDLE
[attachmentid=3186]
NOISY GEAR LEVER
[attachmentid=3187]
OIL PUMP REPAIR
[attachmentid=3188]
RE-CIRCULATION DOOR ADJUST
[attachmentid=3189]
DASHBOARD SPEAKER
[attachmentid=3190]
VVT VALVE CLEANING AND REPAIR
[attachmentid=3191]


PS:if any admin out there ..please can you make this a sticky post please

nothing more to say
it leaks out the bottom can I remove and replace a hose clamp

Hi , yesterday i have changed the motor oil and i was also suggested by the shop to change transmission fluid. Now the vehicle only has 30K miles and i was reluctant to do so, but i did it. Today driving approximately 30 miles since the oil change and transmission fluid change i have transmission light that came on with engine light on. The vehicle is jerking either when im idling or driving,rpm's are going up and down, and at times the car just revs up engine when i give gas and not going forward. What could they have messed up ? Thank you for you're help.

I have a 02 S60 T5 which has recently started spooling up MUCH higher in RPM's than it used to (3750-4250 vs. 2750-3500). The result is a much slower S60 than it was 2 weeks ago. On the suggestion of another Volvo support site, I disconnected the MAF to see if the turbo spools up sooner - and it did. So, I purchased a new MAF from my local NAPA, disconnected the old MAF and connected the new - there is no difference in performance.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should look next? I'm not getting a CEL, though I do when I disconnect the MAF.

Thanks for any guidance,

Ian

on a side note, I did notice that while the MAF is disconnected and the car is shut off (after driving) the radiator fan will continue to run for a couple of minutes and shut off - it does not run after the car is shut off when the MAF is connected.

2001 S60 - where is the ambient air temp sensor located and how do I replace it - pictures please (rob528i@hotmail.com). I need to change it since it is reading -20C (fluctuates) when it's +30C and my air conditioning does not come on - till the temp display changes to zero or higher.thanks

'01 S60.back passenger side wheel sounds like sand paper when i brake. inspected and found the rotor to be very rough.rotors on other 3 wheels are nice and smooth.plenty of brake pads left on all wheels. other than rough sound when brakes are applied, no issues with stopping the car. do i really need to resurface the rotor? what is recommended going forward? do I need to fix eventhough plenty of brake pad left? also and most importantly, how do you think this happened> i.e., only to 1 wheel? thanks - joe.

I didn't see any tutorial on either the front wheel bearing / ball joint replacement. I recently did that myself, and thought I'd share my experience! You should double-check the part numbers. I got all my parts from the local Volvo dealership, as they are quite helpful to the DIYer.

I tried to give tool sizes I used too, but I forgot in one or two spots.

DISCLAIMER: For entertainment purposes only! Car maintenance should only be performed by qualified Volvo mechanics! No liability accepted for any damage to the car or yourself is accepted should you try to use this information for anything more than interesting reading material. I am not a mechanic, so use your own judgement!

Things you might need:

PARTS

Hub Kit - Includes hub, driveshaft bolt, 4 mounting bolts - Volvo p/n 274298
Ball joint kit - Includes ball joint, 2 mounting bolts, driveshaft bolt - Volvo p/n 274548

Driveshaft screw - Volvo p/n 3076055 (don't buy, you get them in the kits!)
Anti-roll link nut, top - Volvo p/n 985909
Caliper/limiter bolts - 985454 (2 needed)


TOOLS
Sockets

• 10 mm socket
• 14 mm socket
• 15 mm socket
• 18 mm socket
• 19 mm socket
• 21 mm socket (13/16" seems close enough)
• T40 Torx
• T30 Torx
• 18 mm crowfoot wrench/adapter

Wrenches

• 8 mm wrench
• 18 mm wrench (ratcheting would be ideal)
• 21 mm wrench

Misc stuff

• M10 1.5mm pitch x 70mm bolts, the type that are partially smooth (see step 25)
• 2" diameter steel pipe nipple (see step 25)

Misc tools

• Slide hammer (see step 24)
• Brass punches / hammer
• Vice

Things you might do:

Step 1
Chock wheel blocks, and apply handbrake hard.

Step 2
To loosen the driveshaft screw, it's better to do this on the ground so you don't risk knocking the car off the jack stands. To do this remove the wheel trim on the side of the wheel. If you don't have this, you could put on the spare tire which gives access to the driveshaft screw. Or you can just try doing it on the jacks:
[attachment=5956:step2_wheeltrim.jpg]

Step 3
Have someone press the brakes hard, then loosen the driveshaft screw (14 mm).
[attachment=5957:step3_drivescrew.jpg]

Step 4
Loosen the roadwheel bolts as well (19 mm). I also fold in the mirrors, as I tend to knock them when standing up! Your choice ;-)

Step 5
Jack up the car, put on jack stands.

Step 6
Take off the road wheels

Step 7
If you haven't already loosened the driveshaft screw in step 3, have someone press the brakes and carefully loosen it now. Or you can insert a screwdriver into the brake disc to counterhold it while loosening.

Step 8
Loosen the bolt on the anti-roll bar link, the top bolt on the shock. Counterhold with a T40, then use a 18mm wrench to loosen it.
[attachment=5958:step8_antiroll.jpg]

Step 9
Carefully remove the ABS sensor by undoing the bolt (10mm). Don't pull up on the sensor wire to get the sensor out! Also undo the wire holder, then carefully put the sensor somewhere it won't get hurt!
[attachment=5959:step9_abs.jpg][attachment=5960:step9_safe.jpg]

Step 10
Turn the wheel to expose the back of the caliper to make removing the bolts holding the caliper / limiter in. Loosen the bolts, but before removing them have some rope or wire ready. You will have to hang the caliper from the spring, and it's pretty heavy! Once you are set, remove the bolts and hang the caliper to protect the rubber brake line.

You should use new bolts when putting the caliper back.
[attachment=5961:step10_bolts.jpg]
[attachment=5962:step10_hanging.jpg]

Step 11
If you turned the wheel to the side, return it to center.

You must measure the distance at the top bolt of the wheel spindle to the spring strut. When reassembling you'll have to set this distance the same, as otherwise your wheel camber will be wrong! Be sure to clean both measuring surfaces well before taking the measurement. I also took it three times to make sure, re-zeroing the instrument inbetween measurements. The other side of my caliper was above the bracket attacked to the sprint strut (can't see in photo). Mine was 87.0 mm for reference.
[attachment=5963:step11_measure.jpg]

Step 12
If it's not obvious, mark the location of the disc relative to the hub. All that matters is which of the four holes you put the retaining bolt through - it should be obvious from markings on the disc!

Step 13
Remove disc retaining bolt (10 mm).
[attachment=5964:step12_retaining.jpg]

Step 14
Remove the disc. If the disc is old it may be seized on, requiring the application of quite a bit of force! If you were planning on replacing your disc now would be a great time to do so...

Step 15
Remove the driveshaft screw, DO NOT reuse. Your hub kit and each ball-join kit will come with a new driveshaft screw, you have lots of spares. I would immediately place the old one away somewhere you won't accidentally re-use it.

Step 16
Tap the driveshaft in 10-15mm with something soft (brass hammer, pin, etc).
[attachment=5965:step16_tap.jpg]

Step 17
Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts attaching the spindle to the spring struct. The bolt head was 18mm, the nut was 21 mm. Note that 13/16" seemed to fit almost perfectly if you don't have a 21mm.
[attachment=5966:step17_loosen.jpg]

Step 18
Use two wrenches to undo tie rod end. Counterhold with an 8mm, then undo the nut with a 18mm wrench (ratcheting would again make this go much faster). You should use a new nut on re-assembly.
[attachment=5967:step18_tierod.jpg]

Step 19
Pull bolts for spindle/suspension. You may have to fiddle around with the spindle or use a hammer to lightly tap the bolts out. You should use new bolts/nuts on reassembly probably. Before you remove them completely see next step for warnings!
[attachment=5968:step19_boltpull.jpg]

Step 20
When you remove the two bolts, the driveshaft boot might be thrust into the bottom of the spindle. You should hold the spindle down, and position the driveshaft to the side a bit. I also put a piece of cardboard in there to stop it (the rubber boot) from being damaged.

Tie up the driveshaft with rope or a hook. You can then pull or tap out the driveshaft from the hub completely. Again be careful it isn't pushed into anything!
[attachment=5969:step20_hanging.jpg]

Step 21
You will now undo the nut on the lower ball joint. Before doing that, I'd tie off the top of the spindle so that it doesn't flop out and get damaged!
[attachment=5970:step21_flopper.jpg]
Use a counterhold, then undo the nut. My counterhold was a T30 Torx, the nut was 21 mm on the old ball joint. The new ball joint was different sizes, so be sure to check yours! Also you may have to clean the end out to see the counterhold, there was a lot of dirt in there.
[attachment=5971:step21_counterhold.jpg]

Take the spindle, it should just lift off now! If you haven't already, take out the rubber driveshaft seal and inspect it. Save it, since the new hub doesn't come with one.

Step 22 - HUB
You need to put it in a 'soft-jawed' vice. Lacking that, two pieces of wood worked well enough for me.
[attachment=5972:step22_vice.jpg]
Clean the bolt threads sticking out that hold the hub on. It will make removal much easier!
[attachment=5973:step22_clean.jpg]
Remove the bolts holding the hub on (18 mm), then tap the hub out. Clean the mounting surface for the new hub, it should easily fit flush!
[attachment=5974:step22_hubclean.jpg]

Step 23 - HUB
Insert the new hub, and insert NEW bolts (they came with the hub kit). Tighten criss-cross first to 20 Nm (15lb-ft) then to 65 Nm (48 lb-ft).
[attachment=5975:step23_torque.jpg]
Finally angle-tighten them a further 60 degrees, again criss-cross fashion. You can make a quick angle gauge by printing off and cutting out a protractor (or stealing one from your kids). Aline 0 degrees with horizontal for instance, tape it on the back of your ratchet, and tighten until 60 degrees is now horizontal. You get the idea.
[attachment=5976:step23_angle.jpg]

Step 24 - BALL JOINT
Use 14mm socket to remove bolts on ball joint.
[attachment=5978:step24_removejoint.jpg]
Then remove ball joint - this is much much harder than it sounds! At least without the proper equipment (slide hammer). I used a combination of a punch, a heavy bar, and some chain to slowly remove this.
[attachment=5977:step24_slidehammer.jpg]

Step 25 - BALL JOINT
You will need to make some guide bolts. Purchase some M10 1.5mm pitch bolts, ones with some area without thread. Cut them down so the threaded area is only about 10mm. File the ends a bit to give them a nice shape so they won't damage your threads! This become the guide bolts, to ensure the ball joint goes on nice and centred.
[attachment=5979:step25_guidebolts.jpg]
Insert the ball joint in, and also your guide bolts:
[attachment=5980:step25_guiding.jpg]
Find a piece of pipe that fits over - I got a 2" x 2-1/2" steel pipe nipple part number UBLN-2025 that fit perfectly over the protective cap. Hammer in the ball joint carefully, you can finish with a brass punch if you want too. In retrospect the pipe should be longer, as the end of the joint stuck out!
[attachment=5981:step25_smash.jpg]

Step 26 - BALL JOINT
Remove the guide bolts, and insert the new screws. Using 14mm socket tighten to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft.

Step 27
Reinstall the ball joint in the control arm, ensuring the mating surfaces are clean! Using a crow-foot, tighten the new nut (came with ball joint) to 40 Nm / 30 lb-ft while counterholding. Note that the crowfoot affects the torque setting - see http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp. However the crowfoot is so short relative to the torque wrench, that realistically you can ignore it. I had to use a 18 mm crow-foot with a 6mm hex counterhold. Do not forget the counterhold!!
[attachment=5982:step26_crowfoot.jpg]

Step 28
Put the driveshaft seal back, then slip the driveshaft back into the hub. Insert the screw by hand, then lubricate it. I found it useful to put the lower of the two bolts in that connect the spindle to the suspension. To do this you will have to push the control arm down hard.
[attachment=5984:step28_seal.jpg]
[attachment=5985:step28_lowerbolt.jpg]

Step 29
Insert both bolts & nuts, being sure they are inserted the correct way (from the front) on the spindle/strut interface. You may have to play around with pushing the control arm / spindle down and taping the bolts in to get them through. Tighten them enough that the spindle is not loose against the strut. Then make sure you get the measurement you took in step 11.
[attachment=5986:step29_tighten.jpg]

Step 30
Now tighten those bolts to 105 Nm / 77 lb-ft. Then further angle-tighten them by 90 degrees. You should be able to 'eye-ball' the 90-degree to good accuracy. Hold ratchet straight up, then go until horizontal etc.

Step 31
Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new tie-rod nut to 70 Nm / 52 lb-ft.

Using a crow-foot and a counterhold, tighten the new anti-roll link nut to 50 Nm / 37 lb-ft.

Step 32
Wipe the ABS sensor down if it is dirty (don't use solvents!), then insert it and tighten it's mounting bolt to 10 Nm.

Step 33
Ensure the mating surfaces are clean, then put the disc back on and tighten the retaining screw to 8 Nm. If you are putting a new disc on: the disc may have one side with a little bit machined out. Put this opposite the disc retaining screw to maintain proper balance.

Step 34
Put the caliper back on the brake disc, then put the limiters back and insert new bolts. Tighten to 100 Nm / 75 lb-ft.

Step 35
Tighten the driveshaft screw a little more. Final tightening should be done when the car on the ground to avoid risking knocking it off the jack stands! I also put a little note on my windshield to remind me the driveshaft screw wasn't tight, as I was doing some other work!
[attachment=5987:step35_done.jpg]

Step 36
Put wheel back on, tighten wheel bolts.

Step 37
Lower car to ground

Step 38
Tighten driveshaft screw to 35 Nm / 36 lb-ft, then tighten a further 90 degrees.

Step 39
Tighten wheel bolts to 140 Nm / 103 lb-ft.

Hi, I bought a 2009 S60 a few months ago. It is a really nice car; yet I am disappointed with the radio reception in AM. Moreover it gets worse when I use my phone charger, I cannot hear anything. My car came with a HU-650 radio. I do not have this issue in my XC90. Any suggestion or advice…Please help

Hi,
Hoping someone here can offer some advice. I've got to replace the pads for sure and possibly the rotors. I've done this before on other cars but never a Volvo.

I wanted to pick up a Haynes manual on repairs but they don't seem to offer one at our local auto store.

Anything special/unique/difficult that I should be on the lookout for? Is there any step-by-step guides that someone can point me at?

Thanks!

I have a 2006 S60 and when applting the brakes, it makes a clicky, pingy type noise as well as a squeal. I just replaced them and still have the problem. Any thoughts?

Wife came in today saying that the R was in the garage and when she went from park to reverse, there was a "clunk" and then the car hesitated a bit before it started to roll backwards.

I've noticed that there's a clunk sound on it when going from a parked position to drive as well as reverse. This is the only time that it makes any noise, which eliminates the CV's...

Thoughts? I've hit up the search which leads me to wonder about the "axle ping" but this seems to only be while in motion where as this only makes noise when the car has been sitting and is being put into motion.

Thoughts?

Car Info:
o6 S6oR, auto trans, and about 57k on the clock.

I have the emission system service message and was told by my shop that it is the catalytic converter.... they quoted me $1,100 for just the OEM part.

I went online and took a look at the aftermarket catalytic converters - the highest priced one I found was $400.

The guy at the shop insists that If i put in the cheaper one, it will fail within a few months, they will deny the warranty saying something else caused the issue, and I will be stuck having to do the same repair again.

Does anyone have any experience with this? It seems a bit crazy that the aftermarket CAT would flat out fail so easily.

Thanks

I recently had my 2004 S60R serviced at a Volvo dealership. They told me that my control arm bushings need to be replaced and that it would cost roughly around $1000. Is this a dire issue? If so, is there somewhere else I could have them replaced for cheaper?

Looking to purchase a used S60. AWD will be nice, living in Washington DC, not snow belt weather, we we do have our moments (like this year, 24 inches of snow a day).

Just want to ask the forum if I don't need AWD as much as someone in Minnesota does, should I just save myself the trouble and stick with a FWD S60? I just hear so many horrible reviews on the S60 V70 AWD models on Edmunds and MSN and other sites.

Thanks.

My daughter's 002 Volvo S60 has a serious radio problem. It starts out playing just fine, then the display says "reversing aid" and/or "telephone", then stops playing and starts beeping incessantly. It cannot be turned down or off, and will not stop till the car is shut off. We are not sure if it is a radio issue or some other wiring issue. A general mechanic has looked at it and could not find anything. Please help!

I need help. I have 2001 Volvo S 60. My AC sometimes blows air but most of the times it does not work. When I turn the knob and it works then it works normal. But most of the times when I turn the knob it does not work. Can someone help me to find the problem. Thanks.

2002 Volvo S60 2.4, 80000 Miles. Blast of blue smoke upon acceleration, toxic smelling interior thereafter. No visible oil near the engine body, no visible loss of oil beneath the car when parked, plenty of oil in the pan. I originally thought it might have been the supply/return lines to the turbocharger...but then remembered this car doesn't have a turbocharger! Where should I start? High pressure pump seal? Maybe an air flow sensor?

I want to order these rims for my S60: http://shop.textalk.se/en/articleimage.php...mp;fullheight=0

..does anyone know where I can find them?

Thanks!

HR

Hi

Great forum. Thanks to all who give advice. Just purchased a 09 S60, my second S60, Beginning at 50 mph up to 80 mph it's like riding on a vibrating bed. 24,000 miles, no accidents, tires (Pirelli P6) have been balanced twice by different shops. It happens at steady speed but really gets bad when you drop a gear to pass. You can also hear a slight thump, thump, thump. Completely ruins the driving experience. Any thoughts?

Hello all,

I'm new to the forum, but have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.

I am having problems with my message centre and my indicator. The message centre won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.

The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive.

Does anybody know if there is a fix to this? a reboot maybe?

Any help would be appreciated.

So I ordered some Volvo OEM rotors from tascaparts for my dads 2005 Volvo S60, and they came today. While I was looking at them I noticed something I have never seen on a brake rotor before (I have done numerous brake jobs on American and Japanese cars). I don't know if this is how Volvo balances their rotors or if something is wrong with them.






Any ideas?

Hi all,
My lumbar support broke today. I felt the support just fall/disappear into the seat. Has anyone had this problem or have experience fixing seats? I tend to bodge things a bit when I experiment with fixes so any help or comments would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Dez

I have a question about the S60 speaker system.
The vehicle s have effectively 6 sets of speakers - front doors, rear doors, and rear parcel shelf.
I am looking at fitting an aftermarket stereo, and the wiring loom i have bought to plug into the factory loom, and every loom i have looked at has 4 speaker channels - Front L+R, rear L+R. But the car has 6 sets of speakers.
My question is this:
Are the rear door speakers and parcel shelf speakers wired to the same channel, or is there an amplifier somewhere to drive the speakers individually?
Any help would be appreciated.

Hello,

I know that the manufacturer of the brake pads is ATE but who is the manufacturer of Volvo S60 brake discs? Anyone knows?

Thanks,
Matt

Hello:

Does anybody knows where I can buy the radio and a/c knobs, mine are all worn out and I want to replace them ....

Thanks

Hi,

Yesterday, I took my family to lunch and all was well with the car. An hour later I cranked the car to run an errand and the A/c simply didn't come on. There was nothing. No blower, no compressor, nothing. I've checked the fuses and all were fine. Where should I look next? Advice needed. I'm in South Georgia and have a good hour commute to and from work. The summer has been brutal this year. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Frank

2004 S60 Suddenly lost a lot of power while driving (non-highway) and the "Reduced Engine Performance" warning appeared. Depressing the gas pedal gave it only minimal power and the engine would not shift. Even in park, depressing the gas pedal would not rev the engine. Turning the car off and on produced the same warning message.

After overnight inactivity, the car started fine, but the Engine Service Required warning light was on. The car was towed and inspected at a Volvo service facility.

The reduction in engine performance could not be duplicated. A computer upgrade was performed and the Service Engine light cleared. They could not find anything else and said if it happened again to bring it in.

I believe this is a safety issue, since loosing power mid road can be dangerous on the highway.

Has anyone experience this problem and if so, have you found a cause or cure?

Thanks
Jojhoe

can someome tell me if there is a difference in the downpipe and exhaust hook up in a 2001 s60 2.3L, 2.4L, 2.5L

Dear all, thanks for the help!

Sent my S60 to MOT yesterday, everything was fine except changing the reg. plate lights and pair of tyres. But after started the car, the lights on centrol control were off, the gearbox indicators were also off. The Nationwide mechanics tried restart the car, recovered the CD player, but the A/C lights were all off. I could still change gear and drive the car, mechanics said it's because the battery is dying, but how could the indicators on the front panel are all good?

wonder anyone has run into this? Any suggestion is appreciated. Tons of thanks!

01-s60 2.4t was running good then just died. now if it starts it just revs up and down rapidly then dies and the code says p0344.

I purchased a new S60 for my mother as a birthday gift. 1st time Volvo owner and LAST TIME. From the 1st 6 months, the interior was begining to shrivel and crack. The dealer, Deel Volvo in Miami and Delray beach Volvo, made note, but did nothing, kept putting us off. It s obvious that incompatible glue compounds were used in the manufacture of the effected items. They refused to warranty it for repair. The car has 20000 miles on it, but it is truly disgusting and cannot even be sold like this. I am buying a new car for my mother and am planning on putting a wrap on the Volvo and parking it for display in the public parking spaces in front of the dealers. I will post pics next week when i return home from traveling. I can not believe that volvo customer service is this way. Anybody else have a similar problem? Bart 7865531311

Have a 2001 S-60 - seem to have no cold air - again. Last time I had to have evaporator replaced (pulled dash). Is this a common problem? Have 93 k and am out of warranty. Suggestions?

Strange issue. All of a sudden my radio stopped receiving any FM signal. Happened while driving. AM works fine. Nothing obvious caused it to suddenly stop. Anyone have any ideas of a quick (read:inexpensive) fix?

I have a 2002 s60 and everytime I enter the car I hear a buzzing sound from behind the climate controls. It will last for several minutes, and then finally stop. It almost sounds like a timer or selenode buzzing. Can anyone help with what the problem might be?

Hello,
I have 150k miles on my volvo. I would like to change my rear shock absorbers. What would be recommended as original parts replacement? Please give opinion regarding KYB gas absorbers or bilstein. My I place on rear the bilstein heavy duty absorbers or they are recommended for front suspension?
Thanks

Beginning in a different discussion, I've recently come to discover that my 2001 s60 will randomly power down when turning the ignition (as if someone has yanked the chord from the outlet). The repair shop is telling me this is due to the failed alarm siren causing an electrical miscue (or something). The alarm system has been out for a number of months and the car has been displaying the message in the dash since it stopped functioning. But only until a few days ago did the car start to have this electrical malfunction when attempting to start.

The shop wants over 400 dollars (!!!) to replace the alarm siren which they claim will fix the electrical problem. I don't know if that's true or if there is a simple way to side step the issue and save the money!

Thank you for any advice!

Hello,
We have a 2001 S60 with a few over 100K miles on it. It has an issue with the a/c that even with the fan in the on position and the a/c button on, it will work and then just stop for no reason. It doesn't seem to happen at a specific time. Sometimes it will not work right when you get in the car and then sometimes it'll stop and start during your drive. I don't know if it is possibly something that I can fix or if you can please point me in the right direction.
Thanks so much!

fuel gauge on my 2001 volvo s60 is not working, and hasn't been since i bought the car last month. I'm getting the dtc p0460, fuel sensor a malfunction. Gauge stays on empty and the LOW Fuel Light is intermittent. Sometimes it stays on for long periods of time, other times I won't see it light for days. But I know the light doesn not coincide with the fuel level like it should.


i had the mechanic change out the fuel pump, along with the sender on the left side under the rear bench, with one from a junk yard. Still has the same problem. Gauge won't move from empty.

i find it hard to believe that the sender is bad on mine and the one from the junk yard. Both have been tested and seem to be giving voltage.

What else might the problem be??? I'm stumped!!!

any help is greatly appreciated!!!

hi my name is bill i've just got a 2002 volvo d5 and i think great car.
i just need to now if i have bought the right one
or have i bought a car thats going to be expensive to fix

i got car on friday drove back to my house which is about 50 mile
everything great but the dashborad display start to play up
the message side sometimes reads back to front,sometimes nothing,
other times gives out wrong message like 98.8mpg [i wish]
but everything else is fine speedo,miles trip,rev counter,

i bought the car private so can't take back and would not want to
as i do like car

i know where there is scrap car is it worth swaping dashboards?
should i wait untill anything else goes wrong with it as it is work fine other than message side?
could it be allright like this for a while or is the whole lot going to pack up?
i think ill get the dashboard of other car and keep it as a spare anyway

any help would be great as i am a bit worry

hi to all again

my 01 s60 is going to be the death of me.just bought and it ran ok but when i drove into the garage it just shut off.i tried to start it and all it would do is an stumble then nothing at all. well today i tried it and it started but something is way wrong.it chugs and black smoke comes out.it won`t take the gas and and sometimes the engine sounds wierd.i had to codes p0014-p0342, any help would be great.....

Hi all new I'm the forum. Just bought a 2002 volvo S60 with 225,000 miles the car has been well maintained. The only issues I am having is the dimmer/headlight switch does not seem to work. the headlights go on but that may just be do to the running lights. Moving the control has no effect on any of the interior lighting/backlighting. This causes the radio lights not to light up at all. Is it the radio that is bad or could it be the dimmer switch? The radio works I just cann't see anything. Also the passenger side ac does not work. It blows hot air. Would that mean the ccm has gone bad or just a switch inside? Sorry for the long post. Any help is greatly appreciated.

so my 02' S60 Base has gone in for service i hit 160k on it this month and the front right strut was not happy ( raddleing and bouncing around )

So she went it and had struts, springs, bushings and a alignment done.. Total $654.92 all with genuine volvo parts..
Is that a good price?


Thanks..

BTW I still get over 35MPG on the highway! yay and no oil use..
woot woot!!

I had my 2006 S60 2.5T serviced yesterday at the local dealership. I had the oil changed and the fuel pump recall work done. They said the fuel pump I have was good and no work needed to be done.

Last night and this afternoon my car alarm goes off out of the blue. I went outside last night and there was no one around my car. This afternoon, I was able to look out my window when I heard it going off and there were no cars or people within 20 yards of my car.

Could the techs at the dealership have bumped or knocked something loose when they were performing the service? It seems a little strange that I have never had this problem and now it has happened twice in the last 24 hours after being serviced.

Thanks in advance.

Hi guys anyone know if there is a double din facia available for a 2002 S60.Ive seen the ones for the 2004 onwards but i assume this one is no good.Any ideas?