Volvo-Forums.com -> 2009 and Below S60

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

Also some emails have asked me to explain how to replace the cabin air filter. This too is easy. For anyone who is interested, therese are the steps:

(1) purchase a new cabin air filter. You can get this at ipdusa.com. They're about 30 dollars.

(2) remove the old CAF. This is located under the glove box near the footwell light. You can get to the filter by removing the plastic covering under the glove box. This is held in by 2 torx screws. Remove this, and you've reached the CAF.

(3) slide out the old CAF.

(4) slide in the new one. Really, there's nothing more than that.

You'll notice cleaner air almost immediately. It's definetly worth it. I would change the CAF every 5th or 6th oil change.

OMG this is such a releif. I was begining to ponder the thought that I would have to take my xenons out and put my old halogens back in for state inspection. I could go to a non-volvo shop but they would still notice the bulb failure message and little orange triangle in the dash and probably not pass my inspection or ask me why if they could not figure it out which of course they could cause of the good ol OBDII. Plus that little light is annoying as hell and I hate driving with malfunction lights or other similar lights on. So i scoured the net trying to find that one fix. Well the light has appeared at the end of the tunnel, LOL. The funny thing about it is that the fix is soo easy. Sorry for the overjoyful intro but here is the fix:
DIY Resistor By the way, in case you are wondering about that hole drilling technique proposed by XenonValot, it ONLY works when you run straight off the battery and not through a relay which in my opinion is risky. If your kit has a wiring harness with fuses attached to it then you have a relay and this will eliminate the message. All it involves is a 10-watt 1 ohm wire wound resistor from Radio-Shack which costs $1.79. A pack of male quick disconnecting pins part#(64-3038)that you can crimp onto a wire costs $1.69. Make sure that the male connectors are the square type and you will also need some 14-gauge wire which radio shack only carried speaker wire in that size. So I went to Lowes and got a spindle of 14-gauge tin plated copper wire for about $7. If you don't alreay have one, buy a crimping/stripping tool, it will save you lots of time. Just follow the schematic and you should have error free xenons in no time! All in all it took me a little over an hour cuz some of the wires i cut were too short. Ohh it also helps to have the actual shunt resistor from the CEM with you so you can get an idea for the length of the wires. Once you build the resistor you may notice that the connectors are a little loose when you plug them into the CEM. For now i just put a piece of electrical tape over the resistor and the connected wires to hold it in incase it comes loose. I am in the process of figuring out a way to tighten the connection. Any questions PM me or reply to this thread. GOOD LUCK!!!!!

I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavly, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesnt stop to rain. Also, if I dont step on the accelerator, the sound goes away.
I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but havent been able to replicate the sound.
Is this something other Volvo owners are/were experiencing. I would appreciate it if I could get some insight on what could be wrong since it only happens sometimes.

Thanks

IF YOUR AIR CON SYSTEM IS MAKING WHISTLING SOUNDS
[attachmentid=3181]
AIR INTAKE ADJUSTMENT
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RESOLVING BRAKE VIBRATION
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CLUTCH LINE VIBRATION
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ETM CLEAN/RESOLVES ROUGH IDLE
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NOISY GEAR LEVER
[attachmentid=3187]
OIL PUMP REPAIR
[attachmentid=3188]
RE-CIRCULATION DOOR ADJUST
[attachmentid=3189]
DASHBOARD SPEAKER
[attachmentid=3190]
VVT VALVE CLEANING AND REPAIR
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PS:if any admin out there ..please can you make this a sticky post please

My user's manual recommends ATF for the Power Steering Fluid. I went to my local Auto Supply Store and found lots of power steering fluid, but none had the designation ATF. When I asked the clerk, he said ATF meant Automatic Transmission Fluid and gave me a bottle of Pennzoil Dexron-III / Mercon ATF. Is this what I should be using to top off my power steering fluid reservoir? My power steering is making noise and I noticed that the reservoir was low. TIA for your assistance..........Patricia

I have a 2001 S60. I've had a very intermittent problem when unlocking the car.

I generally use the key to unlock the doors, but this problem has also occurred with the key fob.

The first turn of the key to unlock the car works fine, and unlocks the diver door.

The second turn, to unlock the rest of the doors and trunk, only unlocks the passenger front door. The rear doors and trunk remain locked.

Locking and relocking the doors results in the same issue. Only the front doors are unlocked.

If I get into the car and start it, the temperature gauge works, but the gas gauge does not register at all.

After driving a mile or so, the gas gauge needle pops up to its position, and then if I pull over, stop the car, and then try to unlock the doors, all of the doors and trunk unlock.

The above is the most common problem, happening 3 to 6 times a month.

Other problems that have occurred much less frequently:

- The sunroof opened when the car was started, even though the button wasn't pushed. This has happened 2 or 3 times.

- While driving on the expressway, I received a warning message that the brakes failed (they worked fine), then I received a message that the airbag needed service, then all of the dashboard lights went out, the turn signals didn't work, the flashers did work, and the headlights, tail lights, and brake lights worked. This happened once.

- I've gone through an inordinate number of headlights and position bulbs over the life of the car. At least 4 per year.

The two Volvo dealers I've taken the car to have not been able to determine what the problem is. All they can do is guess. I don't want to pay for their guesses.

Any ideas out there?

Thanks.

Hi!
Just got my 2006 S60 AWD yesterday and I am obsessed! However, I am also obsessed with my ipod and realized my cigarette-lighter ipod adapter does not work in this car! No idea why but I am desperate...what are my options? Everything I have seen on this site involves taking the whole radio apart and buying extra wires and "splicing"(?) and whatnot. I can't even understand the language used in these posts let alone attempt to do in installation of these contraptions! I hardly know what I am doing posting something on a "forum" haha..I am obviously NOT TECH-SAVVY! My car has (from what I can understand) a single disc CD player and radio, no tape/casette player, and a "12 volt" cigarette lighter thingy (though upon further inspection its not in fact a cigarette lighter but the plug looks like it so I'm just going to still call it that, you know the thing I'm talking about) If anyone can help me I would be forever appreciative! I absolutely do not care about hiding cords and the quality of sound and whatever. I simply want to be able to hear my music! THANK YOU!!! <3

Hey guys,
I think I found a good deal on an S60r. I've never had a Volvo before (or even an import car) and am looking for some tips. Here are the stats:

2005 S60 R AWD
54,000 miles
Auto trans
Dealer maintained

I know the history on this car as it is for sale by a friend of a friend and it is a one owner car that has been babied and very well taken care of.

What things should check on this car?
Are there any maintenance things I should look at?
I am a DIY maintenance guy on my other vehicles (Duramax pickup, mastercraft ski boat, other American cars) will I be able to do any maintain ace on this car to save money?
Any gotchas on this year and model?

What do you think is a fair price for this car, I think I can get it for 12k (private party with title in hand)

Any help would be great! I hope to join your ranks as a Volvo owner! I any active on other forums and think it is a great way to share info!

Hello all,

I'm new to the forum, but have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.

I am having problems with my message centre and my indicator. The message centre won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.

The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive.

Does anybody know if there is a fix to this? a reboot maybe?

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 2001 S60 Non-Turbo. On air filter box there are two small plastic hoses with rubber adapters. I assume these are vacuum hoses. One runs to the engine, the other goes under the air box to the fresh air intake. On the inside of the air filter box there is some type of sensor. One side of this sensor is circular and has a tube coming in from the hose connection, the other does side does not. I was replacing my filter and both of the small plastic hoses came off. Does anyone know which hose goes to which side?

I've tried looking it up on VADIS but could't find a good diagram, and can't seem to find it online either.

All you would have to do is look under your hood and see which hose goes where.

Hi All, im new to this site.
I have a 2.5 T S60 and today i wandered out to see a job.
I got back in my car and it was dead, but the starter motor was clicking and making all the right noises, but the engine would not turn over at all, the panel was showing good lights and there was no messages at this point.
Since then i have come home (via other means) and joined this site to see what the error message "imobaliser, see manual" means, i have read some interessting stuff and went back to try some of these things out, but to no avail, so i am back to the drawing board and have since got a flat battery which needs a little charge now. the error messages are now coming thick and fast, but dont stay on, they dissapear on each start attempt, however, the imobaliser message does seem to be constant..
I have read people spending lots of money on fault finding and things like starter motors etc, but as i am in the forestry trade and normally dont get beaten on "challenges" find myself in one of those defeating positions.
Can anyone help, i love my car, and its getting frustrating making my way home without it, i am ringing the specialist in the morn, but i feel its going to get expensive.
Any help would be appreciated or pointers in the right direction.
I get the feeling the imobaliser wants resetting to the keys (i tried both sets by the way) HELP ANYONE !!!

I have a 2002 S60 with about 59,000 miles showing. I noticed about a month ago, that the idle got rough. Now when accelerating from a stop, the car requires a lot of pedal to move, then slams you into the seat. While driving with cruise, it will occassionally, drop rpm from 2000 to 0, then back again. When sitting at a stop light, will drop rpm and sometimes die (starts back up again without issue).
It reads a turbo boost sensor fault, but I have replaced that without resolution.
Can anyone help me out here?
Thanks in advance

2004 S60 Suddenly lost a lot of power while driving (non-highway) and the "Reduced Engine Performance" warning appeared. Depressing the gas pedal gave it only minimal power and the engine would not shift. Even in park, depressing the gas pedal would not rev the engine. Turning the car off and on produced the same warning message.

After overnight inactivity, the car started fine, but the Engine Service Required warning light was on. The car was towed and inspected at a Volvo service facility.

The reduction in engine performance could not be duplicated. A computer upgrade was performed and the Service Engine light cleared. They could not find anything else and said if it happened again to bring it in.

I believe this is a safety issue, since loosing power mid road can be dangerous on the highway.

Has anyone experience this problem and if so, have you found a cause or cure?

Thanks
Jojhoe

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for your help in buying the first Volvo in my life.
I found it on the internet at a local dealer. I have checked it out last weekend and it looks nice at the first time, but I have doubts with the car dealers here as they tend to keep the secrets of the cars to themselves

Here are some details:
Price (coverted to US $): 13,313$
Year: 2003/5
Fuel: petrol
Gearbox: Geartronic Automatic
CCM: 2319 cm³
Power: 184 kW, 250 LE
Milage: 171000km (106000 miles)
Clima: Digital 2 zones
Color: Grey (pearl metal)
Inner: Beige leather

Some suspicious things I have noticed on the first visit:
- right headligth was wet from inside, dealer told me the car had engine wash, that's why...
- front tires used on the edges heavily (tires age is about 2 years) (bad driving? wrong tire size was used? or suspension missalignment?)
- front left side was repainted according to the paint thickness check (304-380 micrometer was measured)

I would love to hear your opinion as Volvo experts what else should I check what can go wrong from years of experience.
Thanks beforehand.
Attila from Hungary/Europe

p.s.: Some pictures (click on them to see larger image):

Some even more details (I can't tell which one of them is default for this setup):
ABS, ASR, Factory Hifi Dolby Surround 4CD changer, GPS with RTI Navigation (DVD), ESP, Automatically faded inner mirror, carphone, electronically in-turned heater side-mirrors, rain sensor, foglamp, Alu-rims with 225/45R17 tires, elect. adj. heated driver seat with memory, from second owner, elect. sunroof, usually maintenanced with service book, tempomat, parking sensors, DSTC (switchable), Leather multifunction-wheel and shift knob, integrated GSM, elect. childlock, inner alu decoration, headlight washer, kept in garage

Hello everyone,

I am a new member to this forum and to Volvo's in general. This is my first Volvo. It is a 2002 S60 AWD. I love the looks of the car but I have numerous problems with i already. First, the valve body issue with the tranny. When shifting from P to D or R to D there is a 2-3 second lag and then a very harsh shift into gear. Also, when upshifting from 2-3 there is an occasional delay and harsh shift. When downshifting, it is also harsh. I would like to know how much damage will or could happen to the tranny by not immediately fixing this problem? I am dropping it off at the transmission shop in an hour or two for an estimate but am not horribly hopeful.

On another note, I have the brake light, ABS light, Check engine light on in the dash. Codes are P0504 and P0571. My cruise control does not work and I have noticed the rear brakes do not seem to be functioning at all. The rotors are covered in rust even after 3 days of driving. Oh, one more thing...The odometer is not functioning either. It is frozen on 100170. The speedometer does work. I'm am quite frustrated with my introduction to foreign cars

I do appreciate any help that can be offered and look forward to fixing this car or replacing it with another Volvo is this one is too far gone to repair. It is sad that the body and interior are in incredible shape and the motor does run very well.

I am new to the S60 world and was wondering where I should start to fix the vibrations I feel when stopped and in gear. If I take the car out of gear (either Neutral or Park) the vibrations are minimal. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the plugs and cleaned the ETM. They also did a "software" upgrade. This did not fix the problem. I really don't want to keep taking it in to have them keep charging me for things that don't fix the problem.

2005 S60 2.5T w/ 60K miles.

Thanks.

Need help/advice on replacing heater core on 2002 Volvo S60. So far I have disconnected lines going into heater core and am having trouble getting the old core our. I have removed the brake light switch and the core is now up against the steering column union. Is it safe to try to remove bolt holding union and shaft together. If so will I the be able to remove old core. It's frustrating to have it 3/4 the way out and have the steering column on the way. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there

My name is Mark and I'm from the UK...have recently purchased a 2003 s60 D5. It has 58,000 miles on the clock, it's in great condition and even after owning a number of Mercs, I love it. The mpg is great...(double what I was getting from the Merc)and it doesn't hang about ;-).

I do however have 2 things I need to sort out on it...

The first is the boot latch. It has just recently stopped catching, so I am getting an error saying the boot is open. Fortunately there is enough weight in the boot lid to keep it down, so I am still able to drive it, however it does mean I can't lock the boot. A local garage had a look at it and basically said I need to replace the latch mechanism.. SO... can anyone recommend where I might be able to get one from (UK) and is it something I can fit myself??

The second is that there is a strange smell coming from the air vents.. a bit of a sweaty sock smell!!...It doesn't appear to be isolated to whether the air con is on or not.. so wondering if anyone else has suffered with this, and if so whether there is a recommended solution. I was planning to get the air con sanitised to see if this does the trick, but thought I'd ask on here first in case it's more likely to be a filter. Again, if it is a filter, can anyone recommend a supplier, and is it something I can change?

Thanks to any and all for help and suggestions.

Mark

My 2002 volvo s60 has been having some intermittent problems with the passenger door window and door lock.

Usually the door will lock and unlock ok when the window stops working.

This happens "sometimes" when the passenger window is lowered all the way with the auto down on the door switch. Sometimes the whole door goes dead except for the alarm. No door lock, no window, and no thermometer on the dash. Tonight, my passenger wouldn't leave the #!*# window switch alone and it was a fight to keep the window up. Then, for a while I could get the window back up only by holding the button up on the driver's switch, and as soon as I let go of the button it would wait a few seconds and go all the way back down. It did this for a while and then went completely dead...stopped about an inch from closed. Also, that's when the temperature indicator in the gauges stopped working. Most of the time I can reset the window by locking and unlocking the doors five times and all is cool, but not this time. I got nothing. Last time the passenger door went dead, I wiggled the harness to the passenger door and thought that made it work, but who knows for sure. The wires are nice and clean and I don't see any cracks in the insulation. The back windows work fine and I ain't foolin with the sunroof.

Thanks, DNO

Okay so I have put posts about my volvo and the way it seems to burn through o2 sensors every week

But I cant take it anymore the C.E.L. is really bugging me and now I have noticed a drop in gas milage.

The problem is always that sensor one has a high and low circuit and same for the rear.does antbody have any idea

what could cause these issue to continue.I have replaced the sensors with no name brands, bosch, denso, and oem

none of them have made any difference. If anybody could help me it be so greatly appreciated.

Thanks Matt.

Hi,

New here but have a quick question....

2004 S60 w/5 spd. automatic.

I've been told the locking torque converter will enter lockup in almost any gear, like 3rd.

To wit:

...if I can maintain speed and I don't touch the shifter, the torque converter will remain locked up. So what I usually do is get some speed, to like 40mph in 3rd gear with the torque converter locked up (locks up at 25mph in 3rd gear) and then using momentum I ascend the hill while flooring it. The car loses a considerable amount of speed but if I do things right, I'll make it past the most steep part, get to the less steep part which then allows me to accelerate a bit, go to another steep part and make it to the top before the speed gets too low.

If I don't time things correctly and have enough speed, then what will happen is the car gets to 20mph, the torque converter disengages, car then ignores the gear that was selected (3rd), and downshifts into 2nd gear before reaching a certain speed (25mph?) where it will then go back to the selected gear, lock up the torque converter and repeat the process.

Sound right or more like BS? Truly interested.

Hi All,

I have a 2003 S60 2.4 na Bi Fuel with 3 relatively minor issues that I hope you can help with.
1. Just recently the engine sometimes stalls when it changes from petrol to gas. This only happens from cold when stationery or when almost at a standstill from braking. I've read about the ETM but I have no idling problems on petrol or LPG and I do 100 miles of motorway driving a day so can't think this would be clogged up.
2. I get a vibrating sound (sounds like exhaust rattle) when I accelerate in any gear between 1k and 1.5k rpm. Anyone else experience this?
3. Parking light failure now displays although no lights are out. Is this different to the position light failure message?

Thank you in advance.

John

hey guys,

i have a s60 2001 with a remote start ( automate am9 2way remote start alarm ). the alarm works, lock and unlock work ( when remote start is off ). remote start works, unlock works but the lock does not work once the remote start is on. installer said the door goes into sleep mode is there anyone out there that can help me with this problem. when the car is on the button on the door works lock and unlock ( when u hit lock on the remote you here the relay but the car does not lock in remote start mode, valet mode or turbo mode. )

thank you tony....

So a little background, I have a 2004 s60 R bought it with 35k miles on it in the summer of 2008. I am not what you would consider car savvy, I really enjoy the car but could not do any work on it. I took my car in to have maintenance done on it at the Volvo dealership and have never had any issues until now.

They gave me a list of problems that are becoming an issue of concern, 1) bevel gear is leaking and looseness between gears, rear diff is leaking and looseness between gears; to fix this issue they quoted $7k 2) Front spring seats are torn, front struts are leaking due to torn spring seats quoted $2k to fix 3) I had brakes done by someone I trust(ed), front brake rotors are wrong size, needs pads and rotors; which I am going to talk to the person who did them for me.

They told me the issue was probably caused because I have 3 old tires on the car and one new one. Now this has only been since the first Saturday of 2010, I had a tire get shredded from a pot hole, took it in to get 2 new tires the had to order one in and I was planning on having it put on this weekend. I find it hard to believe this issue has developed over the past 3 weeks.

Now when I talked to the person in the service department at the dealership he didn’t even say anything about having it get repaired there, he just told me “to be honest, I would get rid of the car asap!” But is this honest opinion coming from him knowing the cost or the mechanic who is trying to earn a buck? I have had friends told this before by dealers and their car has lasted 5 more years. I am just stuck in this decision situation and it is stressing me out. I am going to get a second opinion probably even a third. I love the car and can’t tell any difference in the driving. I would hate to part with it but can’t lose out on that much money.

Also are there any things I should watch for. I mean I park it in the same place on a consistent basis and there no leak spots and everything seems to run smooth? Any help would be great and any mechanics in Northern Utah you would recommend would be awesome. Let me know if you need anymore info.

Hi All

Could someone help i have a 2002 S60 D5 that stalls when driving at any speed when the fuel is lower than quarter of a tank, i can be driving down the motorway the rev meter will bounce from top to bottom about 3 times all of the lights will flash on and it will stall and as you can imagine it can be dangerous. This also happens when the temperature is lower than 5 degrees.

The only way i can avoid this by putting redex in with a tank of full but it still stalls when it is just above the red.

Does anyone have an idea what it could be?

Thanks

Wes

Hi There,

Purchased a 2007 S60 2.5 Litre Turbo.

I purchased the car from a non volvo dealership. No remote key was available. The dealer contacted Volvo for a remote. I have the remote,key is cut to the same key I was given when I picked up the car, if i put the key into the ignition only the lights show on the dash and the cars does not turn over.

Does the remote key have to be programmed at Volvo?

or

Is remote key already programmed since the dealer I bought from ordered the key directly from Volvo? Note: I did not pay form the new key remote!

Is there anything that must be done i.e. turn ignition on & off 5 times and then press a button on the remote??? I found that online somewhere.

Look forward to your comments.

Regards,
AGVolvo

		Time is now: 10th March 2010 - 09:28 AM
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