2009 and Below S60

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavly, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesnt stop to rain. Also, if I dont step on the accelerator, the sound goes away.
I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but havent been able to replicate the sound.
Is this something other Volvo owners are/were experiencing. I would appreciate it if I could get some insight on what could be wrong since it only happens sometimes.

Thanks

I had my first service done away from the Volvo dealership. 2004 S60 AWD

Do any of you know how to reset the service required message. (Canadian model).

The sales rep is trying to find this out for me as well. He knows it involves the pressing of the trip computer button and while holding in another button.


Thanks in advance for any help. If I find out on my own I will post here.

brianf

OMG this is such a releif. I was begining to ponder the thought that I would have to take my xenons out and put my old halogens back in for state inspection. I could go to a non-volvo shop but they would still notice the bulb failure message and little orange triangle in the dash and probably not pass my inspection or ask me why if they could not figure it out which of course they could cause of the good ol OBDII. Plus that little light is annoying as hell and I hate driving with malfunction lights or other similar lights on. So i scoured the net trying to find that one fix. Well the light has appeared at the end of the tunnel, LOL. The funny thing about it is that the fix is soo easy. Sorry for the overjoyful intro but here is the fix:
DIY Resistor By the way, in case you are wondering about that hole drilling technique proposed by XenonValot, it ONLY works when you run straight off the battery and not through a relay which in my opinion is risky. If your kit has a wiring harness with fuses attached to it then you have a relay and this will eliminate the message. All it involves is a 10-watt 1 ohm wire wound resistor from Radio-Shack which costs $1.79. A pack of male quick disconnecting pins part#(64-3038)that you can crimp onto a wire costs $1.69. Make sure that the male connectors are the square type and you will also need some 14-gauge wire which radio shack only carried speaker wire in that size. So I went to Lowes and got a spindle of 14-gauge tin plated copper wire for about $7. If you don't alreay have one, buy a crimping/stripping tool, it will save you lots of time. Just follow the schematic and you should have error free xenons in no time! All in all it took me a little over an hour cuz some of the wires i cut were too short. Ohh it also helps to have the actual shunt resistor from the CEM with you so you can get an idea for the length of the wires. Once you build the resistor you may notice that the connectors are a little loose when you plug them into the CEM. For now i just put a piece of electrical tape over the resistor and the connected wires to hold it in incase it comes loose. I am in the process of figuring out a way to tighten the connection. Any questions PM me or reply to this thread. GOOD LUCK!!!!!

Also some emails have asked me to explain how to replace the cabin air filter. This too is easy. For anyone who is interested, therese are the steps:

(1) purchase a new cabin air filter. You can get this at ipdusa.com. They're about 30 dollars.

(2) remove the old CAF. This is located under the glove box near the footwell light. You can get to the filter by removing the plastic covering under the glove box. This is held in by 2 torx screws. Remove this, and you've reached the CAF.

(3) slide out the old CAF.

(4) slide in the new one. Really, there's nothing more than that.

You'll notice cleaner air almost immediately. It's definetly worth it. I would change the CAF every 5th or 6th oil change.

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

IF YOUR AIR CON SYSTEM IS MAKING WHISTLING SOUNDS
[attachmentid=3181]
AIR INTAKE ADJUSTMENT
[attachmentid=3182]
RESOLVING BRAKE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3183]
CLUTCH LINE VIBRATION
[attachmentid=3184]
ETM CLEAN/RESOLVES ROUGH IDLE
[attachmentid=3186]
NOISY GEAR LEVER
[attachmentid=3187]
OIL PUMP REPAIR
[attachmentid=3188]
RE-CIRCULATION DOOR ADJUST
[attachmentid=3189]
DASHBOARD SPEAKER
[attachmentid=3190]
VVT VALVE CLEANING AND REPAIR
[attachmentid=3191]


PS:if any admin out there ..please can you make this a sticky post please

On my 2005 S60 the drivers window auto up causes the window to travel too far and is causing an air leak. If I quickly tap the window switch to lower the window about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, the window matches the position of the passenger door and the air leak disappears. Before I remove the interior door panel can anyone confirm that there is an adjustment possible for this or is the upper limit controlled by software? Does anyone have specific instructions on how to do this?

Teen needs a bit of help in the backing up department (or maybe a good kick in the a**). Clipped a tree and trashed the drivers side mirror.

No way this goes to insurance, so the current thought is to pick one up on eBay (new they want like $500 for all the parts).

Questions:

1. Checking out a few videos it seems a pretty easy replacement, pull the inside panels, unhook the wiring harness, unbolt the old one, reverse the process for the new one, right?
2. If I can't find the correct color, can I install a different color one and somehow paint the plastic piece the correct color ... or should I wait till I see the correct color show up on eBay?

I wish I had invented a way to fast forward my kids from 16 to 25 :-)

The car is a 2004 S60 with almost 100k on it. About 6 weeks ago the CEL came on and the car began to start rough but then run smooth with lower performance and worse MPG. I borrowed an OBD reader from O'Reilly's and discovered both P0016 and P0017 errors. Somewhere on the internet I read that having both of those indicates that the timing belt has skipped a tooth.

So I bought a kit (belt, idler and tensioner) and installed it. The car now starts nice, runs strong, and has its old MPG back. But after clearing the errors, the CEL came back on and the ODB reader still says P0016 and P0017. Argh. It makes me think I got something wrong when I changed my belt.

With the old belt on, I turned the crank by hand an got the intake mark 'in the notch'. In that position, the exhaust mark was past the notch. So I turned the crank back (CCW) to get the exhaust mark in the notch and then removed the belt. At this point I found that the crank was one whole tooth before the mark. I then moved the crank to the mark (CW), moved the intake to the notch (CW), and then installed the new belt.

I fear this may have been wrong. Since the cam gears can move in relation to the cams I think that when I moved the cam gears to their notches, I didn't actually move the cams themselves; only the gears within their allowed travel. After I got the crank mark between the 2 marked teeth on the crank gear, should I have turned the cam gears one whole rotation clockwise so that the gears would be up against their 'stops' and the cams would have been in a definite place?

Thank you for your time,
Dave

Hello everyone!!!

I bought a 2005 S60 R from my brother a couple months ago. Registration is up so I took it to get it inspected and the license plate bulb is out. They swap it out at the inspection place and it was black. BUT! When the trunk is open you can wiggle the cable right before it goes into the trunk lid and the lights will turn on. The button to open the trunk also will work. Mid-way into closing it it shuts down and you can't wiggle it to turn on. I have pulled the cover from the trunk lid and checked all the connections and everything is tight and nothing will make the light turn on or off except for the spot I talked before. I'm thinking some part the cable is broken. What do you guys think?

I've looked everything to find the part to order online but I can't find a site that lets me look at the schematics to find the part. I found here in the forum that there is a software name Vadis but it's for PCs. I only have a mac.

PLESE HELP!

I am experiencing an intermittent loss of power in the form of almost a stall under certain driving conditions. It almost always happens while driving at about 40-50 mph on the highway and applying mild pressure to accelerator to go up a hill or pass a car. When this stall happens, I see the RPM's drop for 1 second and then it picks back up to where it normaly should be. It's almost as if you run out of gas but the engine never really shuts off. I have changed my fuel filter and air filter, and have cleaned my MAF. Any suggestions? My car has 82k miles 2005 2.5T s60

I hit a speed bump at a private road and this it what happened.

the pipe goes through from catalytic converter to muffler got bent and was touching driving shaft above the pipe.

I brought this to a local repair shop and got told that I have to change the catalytic converter and muffler because they could not bent the pipe back since the joint of the converter and pipe is so old and rusty, they were saying that they might break the thing as they trying to bent it back. they quoted me $900. any advice?

Hi,

My 2003 Volvo S60 started giving some sound when switching-off the engine. When inspected, the mechanical engineer said the Flywheel will have to be replaced.

So, I'm looking to buy a Flywheel matching to my 2003 Volvo S60 2.0 Turbo. Engine number is YV1RS49K232278718.

Anybody having a part, pls email me at eranga.erl[at]gmail.com

Thanks in advance,
- Eranga

I recently did a transmission service using the IPD automatic transmission flush hose kit. It contains a section of clear plastic hose, a new green plastic clip to secure the transmission line back into the radiator when you are done, and new "O"� rings for the line for $24.95. What a simple way to take care of something the dealer charges $300 for and far better for your transmission than using one of those quick change places with a flush machine. Really not much more difficult than an oil change. Here is a step by step walk through of the procedure. I should have taken a few pics, but it is so simple you really don't need them. Took me about 1.5 hours including the test drive, recheck, and top off. Start the procedure with 12 quarts of Mobil 3309 trans fluid on hand. I paid $60.86 from Amazon with free shipping as that was the best deal I could find. My total cost was less than $100.00 including a special funnel from IPD for $2.95 that makes adding fluid through the dipstick tube very easy.

1. Remove black plastic guard from directly under radiator - two 10mm bolts.
2. Place drain pan under driver's side of radiator.
3. Squeeze green plastic clip on transmission line where it enters radiator and wiggle line while pulling to the rear. The IPD kit contains a replacement clip so don't worry about breaking it. Very little fluid will come out at this point so you could get by with just throwing a shop rag on the floor to catch the drips.
4. Leaving the existing "O"� rings on the line slide the clear plastic tube onto the transmission line. In cold weather you may want to warm of the plastic hose with some warm water to make it more flexible and easier to slip onto the line.
5. Insert the other end of the clear hose into a clear gallon jug. You can measure two quarts of water into the jug and mark a line for reference to make it more accurate.
6. Start the engine and watch the fluid flow through the clear tube and enter the gallon jug shutting the engine off as the level reaches the two quart level, approx. 30-45 seconds.
7. Add two quarts of Mobil 3309 trans fluid to the transmission through the dipstick tube.
8. Start the engine again and fill the remainder of the gallon jug. Shut off the engine a couple of seconds before the jug is full to avoid it overflowing.
9. Transfer the old fluid from the marked jug into any other container to hold the old fluid.
10. Add two more quarts of Mobil 3309 trans fluid.
11. Repeat removing two quarts/adding two quarts. You should notice the fluid coming out becoming a more red color around the time you are pumping out the 10th quart.
12. The last time you start the engine to pump out fluid stop approx. ½ quart short to assure that you have a little bit of fluid left to top up after the test drive.
13. After the last time you remove old fluid change remove the clear hose.
14. Remove the old "O"� rings and green plastic clip.
15. Slide on new green plastic clip.
16. Install new "O"� rings.
17. Push transmission line back into fitting on the bottom of the transmission. You will need to wiggle and rotate the line a bit as you push firmly until the green clip snaps into place.
18. Clean the lower trans line area with brake cleaner or another similar solvent.
19. Add 1.5 quarts of fluid to replace final 1.5 quarts removed and replace dipstick.
20. Test drive car making sure engage all gears of the transmission.
21. Check lower transmission line area for any signs of leaking.
22. Re-install lower radiator plastic guard.
23. Check trans fluid level and top up as necessary.
24. Notice nice red color of fluid on dipstick! Congrats!

Hey all Volvo drivers! I read a lot of post about this tire rubbing issue when the steering is turned completely left or right. I experienced this rubbing problem on my 2001 S60 T5 with 78k miles. I have the factory upgrade 17 inch wheels wrapped with 235/45ZR17 General Exclaim UHP tires. The tire rubbing noise was getting annoying so I called my local Volvo dealership. The service tech guy was nice enough to explain to me what might cause the rubbing since I have 78k miles on my car. He said that the rubber steering stop tends to wear out over time so he suggested that I try replacing the steering stop. So today I replaced two new steering stops(see attached pictures) myself for about $35. Went for a test drive doing a complete left and right turn and the tires seems to still rub. However it was still bothering me. As I was scratching my head, suddenly a light bulb came on! There is this piece of metal inside the front fender well (see attached pictures) where the tire rubs against it that I opt to remove. There is no gap or anything that concerns me after the piece has been removed (see picture) so my car should be fine. Of course, remove the piece at your own risk. At last I took it for a test drive again doing a full circle turning left and right and what do you know, NO MORE TIRE RUBBING!!

[attachmentid=2993] Right passenger fender
[attachmentid=2994] Inside fender well where tire rubs
[attachmentid=2995] Inside piece removed
[attachmentid=2996] Inside the fender after the piece has been removed
[attachmentid=2997] worn steering stop
[attachmentid=2998] new steering stop replaced
[attachmentid=2999] My ride!

Hello all,

I'm new to the forum, but have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.

I am having problems with my message centre and my indicator. The message centre won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.

The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive.

Does anybody know if there is a fix to this? a reboot maybe?

Any help would be appreciated.

I saw the original Volvo hands free bluetooth on eBay and this other aftermarket brand which also allows you to play music from your phone. Anyone have experience with either one?

I have just noticed a small wet 'green' looking patch on my carpet in the passenger footwell by the centre console.

Having taken the trim off from under the glove box and the trim on the console there're are some green stains coming down the side of what I believe is the heater matrix.

It would appear to originate near where the two pipes go into the unit.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Are there any '0'rings on these pipes and could they be the source of the problem?

I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine. What do you guys think can be the issue?

I drove my 04 s60 2.5t car to the store, while on my way to the store, the car surges 3 times. On leaving the store the car started and run for about 10 seconds. This happen several times to the extent that I have to towed the car home. I tried using my CAN OBD II scan tool to retrieve any error code that may be responsible for the engine cutting off immediately after start, but it registered no error code. The check engine light goes on and turn off after a few seconds. Please help with the following



1: why would the engine run for only few second and cut off

2: Why no error code was registered

I'm looking at a continental brand timing belt. Or do I have to get Volvo brand just like their sparkplugs..?

Found a couple posts pointing to turbobil site for instuctions to remove the s6o radiator but nothing there?.
Heard remove bumber, dont remove bumber

If anyone has instrcutions that would b great...

Thanks
Joe

Hi Every one,
I am rebuilding my 02 s60 awd 170,000 km and I am considering an up grade on the turbo .
The stock item is a Mitsubishi TD04 HL-13T and I have been looking at doing an up grade on the turbo before it all goes back in .

Has any body had any experience with the 16t up grade and are there any reasonably priced components available here in Australia or am I best to bring it in from Japan?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated .
Regards

SPAM Removed

Good Evening,

I need a ABS control module for my 2002 S60 2ltr saloon, I can get a used one and even fit it but will it work? or do I need to go to a Volvo garage?

Cheers

It's tax return time so im going for some lowering springs. Im seeing that there are alot of choices out there like Elevate,Eibach and H&R so im curious about fittiment on the AWD models since they are not listed as much when you type in Volvo S60's. Im looking to see some feedback on you guys thoughts or feelings on which brand is best all around. To me Eibach is the most trusted brand but im reading that they have a better ride quality then the H&R's but do not sit as low on the AWD models as the H&R's,any feedback would be great.....

My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies. Help me fix this problem.

hi guys i have a 53 plate s60 d5 2.4 derv i have recently started to lose power and not reving over 3000 revs replaced filter still the same,engine service light is on plus abs service is required car has high mileage but full service history i have error 039 when i hold stalk in,how do i fix these problems what do u recomend,plus i cannot remove the lights and noticed the cruise control aint workin please help guys

Bought this 2005 S60 a couple of months ago. Great car but it has what seems to be fogging (or scratches) on the glass instrumental panel. It doesn't feel like scratches on the outside and yet I can't seem to rub (what looks like fogging) away either. The area that is fogged/scraped never seems to change.

Is there a way to figure out what the problem is here and how to fix it? Thanks!

(I have attached a photo)

Hi.
To give a more detailed understanding of my situation, I will tell the full story.

I'm driving a 2007 S60 2.5T. A couple of months ago, I got an Check Engine light. I went to the local stealership, and they explained, after an hour long test, they got an fault code indicating no signal from the Fuel Pressure Sensor, and it seemed like it needed to be replaced. If this wouldn't work, they would have to change the fuel pump. I ordered the Land Rover sensor, and changed it myself after browsing this forum. (Saved me at least 200 bucks - thanx guys!) After a week or two, the Check engine light came back on once or twice, but did not remain on as it did the first time. Besides of that, the engine worked fine.

The last couple of weeks I have had flat battery several times. It is, however, not every time. What happens is, I turn the ignition, and it is like the battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the engine. Sometimes it starts at the last second, sometimes it doesn't start at all, and some times it starts like if nothing has ever been wrong. If it doesn't start, or just barely start, it turns the starter for about three to four seconds before it either starts or dies. Any further attempts after a failed start is just like what you get when the battery is flat. It turns the starter once or twice before it clicks off. If I get a jump or use a booster, the engine starts fine.

I have no charging light (and have never had it), nor do I have any other warning light, and the lamps are all working. If it doesn't start, the clock is reset and I will have to set it again. In my mind, this indicates a bad battery. However, I took it to two places to have it checked. The first place said the battery was fine, but there were no charging from the Alternator. The other place couldn't check my battery as it indicated the alternator was running (which it weren't and I had the keys in my pocket). It could check the alternator, however, and the check came out fine. I have checked the battery myself with a voltmeter, and it has 12.something volts, and the charging voltage is between 13.8 and 14.5. Usually around 14.2 +/- 0.1.

I have checked the water level, and it is lower than what it should be, but all the cells are covered. As the alternator came out bad in one of the tests, I have been starting to believe this could be the issue. And an erratic alternator could explain why I sometime don't have any problems starting, but other times do. However, if it was bad, shouldn't I have had a general issue with electricity which would be reflected in a bunch of other electrical problems? And get a charging warning light? How can I test if it really is the alternator? I have checked the battery connectors, and as the battery is in the luggage compartment, it is completely clean and free from corrosion. The cables are clamped tight on.

Could it be the regulator? I don't know much about that part of the system.
Could it be a bad starter? I have never had such a problem, and don't know the signs.
Could the fuel pressure issue I've had earlier be part of the problem?

Additional info: I use the car to drive to and from work, which is a half hour commute mostly on highways. Hence, it should get enough time to charge between the failed starts.

All help is highly appreciated!

Jack

Hey guys im new to this forum or any other to be exact. I just bought a 2002 volvo s60 2.4L non-turbo with 52k miles, and i was cleang the cars interoir when i discovered some loose wires under the passanger seat. As i looked under i found an empty bracket where it looks like some electrical component might hook up to. Problem is idk what this is my first volvo and the passanger seat is not electrical...Can you guys help me out?

Only light that are on the dash on are: SRS (airbag)

im looking to put about $1500 into my volvo(maybe alittle more) but not shure where to start, need a little help.

I have a 2007 S60 2.5T

I bought it used with only 11,000 miles.

I am approaching 100,000 miles on the original brakes and rotors on both front and back. They have no signs of needing replaced. No noise. No pedal pulse.

Seriously?

Is this slow wear normal for a Volvo?

Where can I get replacement parts that will produce the same results again? Other than the dealer itself, can I get Volvo parts at a reduce parts somewhere else?

Thanks.

Anyone else hear a thump when slowing down or coming to complete stop? Thump doesn't happen everytime but sounds louder sometimes and doesn't alway seem to be in the same area of the ceiling. STRANGE!?!?!?!

Any comments suggestions are welcome.

Where is a good place to buy parts?
I am having no success in trying to get a response from volvowebstore.com. I have sent multiple emails over the past week and called and left voice mails (it goes to automated attendant immediately when calling them). I probably made a mistake by telling them it was with regard to wanting to return an unused part. I like the online store but I just can't keep spending time trying to get in touch with them.
Can anyone recommend a store that still has decent customer service? Thanks.

Hi everyone. I have a 2006 volvo S60 2.5T and it keeps using a lot of water. i will fill it with a 50/50 mix and with in 2 weeks the light will come on and it will need more. I haven't noticed it in the oil. but can't figure out were it is going. any ideas.

So I recently re-soldered the DIM chip to clear the SRS-Urgent code (worked great) but noticed one of my bulbs was burnt out. I'd like to know if anyone has changed the wedge bulbs with LEDs or different colored bulbs, if so which kinds did you buy and where?

Before I can register the car I need to solve these:

The CCM-001F and ECM-261A cause the check engine light to come on (however I can temporarily clear these to pass inspection)

The SRS-00D4 Causes the ! light and DIM reading SRS-Airbag Service Urgent. I can clear this one but the next time I turn the car on its back (which won't help me with inspection). I know the signal isn't really faulty as I can turn it on and off with the Dice software, I've read that any electrical work can cause the error and I know the guy before installed a new cup holder which could cause the error (or so I've read).

I'm hoping for some input before I take it to a mechanic who wants to charge me for an entirely new DIM.

Thanks!

I have an '07 S-60. The radio, 6-cd changer, the 850 model, turns on, I can switch between stations, but the volume doesn't work, nor do the controls for bass, fading and so on. I can actually hear some intermittent twitching sounds when I turn it on, which leads me to think there might still be some life in it. Any suggestions on what to check for?

Hello,

I have a 2007 S60 FWD 2.5T. My mechanic told me that at some point, I had an oil leak from my rear camshaft seals. After doing some research, I checked my oil dip stick and at idle, I could see white smoke coming out of it.

Looks like I need a new PCV Valve. I did some research online and a bunch of vendors sell the PCV kits.

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-...0-turbo-v70t100

Can I just replace the breather box and the associated parts in this kit or do I also need to change the Crankcase Vent Hose ?
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-cran...-volvo-30650578

Also, since this is going to be a pretty expensive job (with removal of intake manifold etc), are there any other things I should be looking to replace? Car has 115K miles.

Thanks a lot!

Hi!

I got a Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 2005 with a HU-850 head-unit.

I got some problems getting my USB2-module to work the way it should. It works really good as long as i got the car up and running but when i leave it off for a few minutes and then power it up again the GROM wont startup correctly. I got an ipod-cable, 3.5mm DIN and USB connected to the grom, not that i tink i matters since it wont startup at all but it can be good to mention maybe

First of all, i don't hear the vocie playing telling you what mode you're in (USB, IPOD etc) even though i can change songs on the integrated controls of the steering-wheel and i see on my iphone 5 that it switches but no sound at all.

If i turn off the ignition once again it seems to work the way it should again. Every time it works the displays says something about a cartridge and the music starts to play as it should. It might take up to 2-3 tries sometimes before the module starts up as it should.

I bought it for about 2 weeks ago, is there any new firmware to fix this issue or is there any other way of solving it?

*edit* Maybe this thread should be moved to the electronic-section. If some moderator see this please move it if possible.

Purchased a used 2009 V60 from another state. FM radio works fine. AM radio has no reception and does not pick up any local stations. Any suggestions?

We have a 2.4 t. S60 lately my wife says the low oil pressure message comes on, occasionally. Checked the oil level, it's good. Cars maintain e has been done regularly since new. One friend says the oil pan gasket has been known to loose it seal. He thinks I should change the gasket. The car sounds good and has this occasional problem for about a week.
I welcome any suggestions on how to check pressure or comments about possible problem or solution

Hi there,

Ok... so after 13 years of driving my own car and never damaging it....last week I take my friend's pride and joy S60R (2003) to the shops and somehow damage the front bumper on a curb in a parking bay. It seems to have cracked and snapped (very bottom of car beneath number plate)... anyway to my horror we've been told that it can't be fixed...the whole bumper needs to be replaced. The big issue for me (apart from feeling awful) is the cost. Volvo want £620 for a new one! Does anyone know of anyone that has one for sale in the UK or somewhere that sells such parts cheaper or 2nd hand?? I'm assuming it'll be cheaper to get one 2nd hand and get it painted than buy a brand new one from the dealer?? has anyone else been in this position?? I've been warned that it'll be very difficult to find one 2nd hand.


Thank you from a very guilt stricken friend

Hi:
I have as 1992 740 Turbo Wagon--original owner 200k miles. Still humming!! Sometimes I can not release the shifter out of PARK. Eventually after pressing the break pedal on and off and pushing the shifter button several times it releases. I am resolved to keeping it in neutral and just using the emergency break.

Any ideas?

I bought an 03' S60 2.5T for $3500 that I knew had a transmission issue. Mechanic friend that tested it noted the fluid needed to be changed (which we did). The transmission delayed a few seconds when switching from P-D but was smooth between all other shifts.

Drove the car 15 minutes home on free way 65 mph+. From the exit I noticed that from stop to go it was sluggish and needed lots of RPM to move. So far I'm wondering:

Software update?
New SLU(TCC) solenoid?
or whole new valve body?

When I described some of the problems to a mechanic he said the car was sluggish because it was in 'limp mode' and I needed a whole new transmission for $3800 bucks. Any thoughts?

I have a 2005 S60 T5 with an R series engine. It has developed a loud right front suspension noise, like a loose clanging part, that is only present when I go over bumps for about the first quarter of a mile of driving first thing in the morning. When I park the car during the day and let it sit, noise does not seem to reappear. Is there some type of multi-valve system in the strut cartridge that could have failed and account for this? I inspected the strut and see no external signs of oil, but the accordion boot does not appear to be fastened at the bottom end to the cartridge (appears the same on both sides) and I can see the exposed stainless steel shaft of the cartridge on the jacked up side. Is this normal or should the boots be fastened to the cartridge? I see nothing else suspicious when inspecting the front end. Any thoughts on what might be producing the noise will be appreciated.

Thanks.

I had my nice '02 S60 2.5T AWD cleaned and the guy used chemicals (Microban - powerful - a mistake!) After 5 weeks the smell is not going away and I'm reacting badly to it - and chose Volvo due to my chemical sensitivity. I fell in love with the fast engine and comfort and safety and am trading mine in for another used one.

Dealer has:

'08 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD
95k miles
Timing Belt and 105k mi service is done.
- Looks perfect
- Does not "catch" quickly when I accelerate. Dealer says its transmission is different than the one I currently own and will change the way it drives based on how I drive it.

He wants $13,881 for it.
He's offered me $2500 for mine and says it will go to auction.

My car has 127k mi on it. It has 3 or 4 dings in the doors. Both cars have superb interiors. My car has a new Volvo windshield and 6-month old Michelin tires. Takes 5 minutes to warm up and drive quickly which has always worried me and now has the chemical odor issue.

So, I could have the new one for $11,381 before sales tax etc.

Is this a good deal based on what I've written here?

Thanks

New to Volvos and jumped in with both feet.

2003 S60 2.5t, from stop position to starting I have high RPM but low speed (kinda like on a manual when you have too much clutch in). All the other gears shift smooth and normally.

Mechanic thinks its the Torque Converter Solenoid, but we can't find anywhere to buy one for the s60. Any advice for a newby?

Hi Every one,
I am rebuilding my 02 s60 awd 170,000 km and I am considering an up grade on the turbo .
The stock item is a Mitsubishi TD04 HL-13T and I have been looking at doing an up grade on the turbo before it all goes back in .

Has any body had any experience with the 16t up grade and are there any reasonably priced components available here in Australia or am I best to bring it in from Japan?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated .
Regards