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1G (1998-2006) S80 Forum

I leave my car and come back and radio and ac/heater fan is on
please if you have any advice
Thanks

Hey Guys,

I have a 2000 Volvo S80 2.9 and its leaking from the reservoir and the hose connection. It has ATF in it right now (never been flushed) and I was thinking I should flush the system when I replace the reservoir and the hose.

Volvo says I should use ATF but I read that ATF causes leaks. I was thinking I should use Pentosin CHF 11S this time around. What do you guys think?

Also what is the best method to remove all ATF and replace with CHF11S? Several people just replace the fluid in the reservoir, drive for a while and replace again, but with this method there will still be some ATF in the system.

I read that it is bad to mix ATF and CHF 11S so I want to remove all ATF and replace with CHF11S.

Any input will be much appreciated. Thanks!

Hi All, I`m new on here so please be patient with me. My emission service light came last week so I pulled the code and got a P0171 code, along with that the car started pinking. I have read on the net on many sites that the pre cat o2 sensor is reading a rich condition so the short term fuel trim is taking fuel away actually leaving the engine in a lean state hence the pinking. Could any of you tell me what voltage I should expect at the four wires on the pre cat o2 sensor as I have two wires with battery voltage and two wires with 3.80 volts. I`m assuming that the two with 12v are the heater and the other two are the earth and signal wires but surely if one of them is the earth why do I have 3.80v at this wire and surely the other wire should signal between 0v and 1v? Any help that anyone can give me would be really appreciated.

I recently repaired my volvo s80 t6 2000 from a front end collision. after it was up and running and oil looked great I noticed I keep losing coolant. I then realized coolant left in reservoir was very grey and sludgy. I then checked oil and it indeed was milky and greyish.

I figured blown head gasket so ran a compression test. all cylinders seemed great running about 180psi except the sixth cylinder(pushing over 240psi with each crank of the engine making it rise. They all had a fair amount of oil sitting in them which does not sound like it is supposed too but unfortunately I am new to this kind of issue.no way shape of form am I a mechanic just a guy interested in fixing his car. this is my project car so help me out!

Any ideas and help would be much appreciated

The hole sha Bang my run so far with my pet monster the" s80 t6 2000........

paid 5900+ tax one owner he drove it 80 miles a month for ten years= 184.000 car is mint
stored indoor hole life sunday driven

towed to my house 75$

safty and e-test 275$ srs light still on from day 1

rotors 420$ imported\slotted
bremo pads 180$
sway bar lin 112$ X2
battery 130$
alternator referb 280$
plat plugs 120$ x6
turbo clamps 14$ X4 basic pipe clamp
head light 12$
coolng fan used 110$
ball joints 240$ 120$ each
oil under spray 220$ three years total
plastic wire harness eng 18$ re-covered all electrical engine wires
elect tape 40$ the tuff sh$t
heat tape 20$ turbo pipe melted engine fan relay wire...
tools for the beast 450$
fuzes 10$
obd 2 scan tool 350$ confiscated
basic obd scan 108$
Cold air tube from grill
air filter box used 15$
powerstering bolt free bee -3$ volvo guys are my heros
windshield fluid t-valve 12$
ignition switch 45$
----------------------
alternator= servive electrical soon msg... still drivable was on my way 2 mac D's turned
around right away and
went home..3am...CAR OUT FOR 17 DAYS did fix my self for 280$ new one 550$ plus tax no way
CONCLUSION---------WAS THE MATALIC spring loaded bar WORN down on the
voltage regulator spin rod....slowly but shurly this does happen with all volvo alts ..no
more caution yellow [!] or electrical mgs...hu hu ha haaaaaaaaaa! im am my own master of my

slu..s80....
----------------------------------------
cooling fan= CAR OUT FOR 31 DAYS...was on a there and bac family visit toronto 2 hamilton
en bac..stoped off @ canadian tire comming from h-town in the city ..and my cousin notised
the engine fan was still on to his reply isint that supose 2 stop ..i said with my chest
pushed out big ya is has a computer that flushes my toilet ..fans it self after a long trip...
an yaaddaa yadda .lol..you no the drill s80 owners..!
So after 20mins or so bac to her, an fans still on right away i new ..dam not good..
could be the central control unit..nooooo...another one is ...ITS BATTERY DRAINING TIME
FOR ALL YOU CONTESTANTS OUT THERE ..used the plug and unplug method with wires right above
the fan shroud every time i went out ...in end i then burned the fan motor out because the
fan relay has a fail safe mode witch runs the motor @ high speed always when connected
after the relay voltatge changes + or -

Internet research 40+hours learned where all wires ran and there function in the
front end ya man 15 days almost every thing electrical wow

CONCLUSION---------the turbo pipe that runs right in front of the fan shroud and engine
got so hot IT MELTED THE ENGINE FAN RELAY RETURNE WIRE and shorted the
connection.. this turbo pipe touches the fan relay box on all twin turbos...not happy
I didnt have the cold air tube from the grill to air filter box witch ment all turbo
pipes were extremly hot =used fan 100$ cold air conector tube 15$ heat tape 20$ re-repped
fan relay wires no more problems p.s. nothing stored in the system no falts
---------------------------------------------------
9+grand so far
--------------------------------------------------------------
ignition switch= to date May 22 2013 last repair

had abs lights go off stc lights pull over asap lights, Alarm servive required /!\
battery light
every thing was fine nothing rong with the controls just lights galore and lots of panic.
...went home next day drove over 2
hours nothing no lights....alright it was just a falt no worries...somtimes the t6 wouldent
start after five days of sitting .............it cant be the new alt or
the brand new battery i tested bolth, this happened 5 times or so. One time only once
the lights would come up same as before when driving ABS,STC,BRA FAILER msg ex.

but this time the immoblizer see manual msg came up i thaught that might have something
to due with the alarm service msg indicating a falt in the system car would
not start..again everybody no falts no codes stored and yes my shop agin tryed to pull
any codes thrught his bad **** obd reader\abs reader....nothing ...wooooooow
.Alright ima jump soon....

few days later driving
down town instrament cluster shuts off NO SPEDOM NO RPM NO TEMP..but gas gage still fine..
drove to meeting shut car off. Hour later started right up drove home nothing no lights
no malfunctions .Went on a beer run lights cam on drove it right to my shop no falts
no codes stored no nothing just lights every where.... i thaught there is no way they
all failed its just mathimaticaly impossible...................i was right in end
p.s prior to all these lights going off i had alarm service msg with a
yellow caution indicator /!\ on start up about a month before my new panic board lights
entered into my life

so i started the dreaded ABS light venture on the internet after i already spent many many
days on switches, small relay wires, CAN net and OMG what a nightmare...some of those poor
people have suffered from so many stealerships horrors..fixes with no guarantees bills
of well over a thousand dollars for new ABS modules, people pulling things off by them
selfs hopeing the light goes off after hundreds wow....you half to be clear average minded
to concer this car without fustrating your self to death. a way of acting that this is
a puzzle you and me can du and i love it..

so i cleaned the battery leads with a simular story on the internet before i f-ing let loose
with a sludghammer
what do you no......... no light for about 23 days then on a friday ran a bunch of arrands
and planned 2 again see family in Hamilton Ontario 56 there and bac Sat morning
went out she was done no start WAS NOT going any where...i had alternator problems before
and when she had trouble starting i could clearly smell gas tryed it only 3 times
no gas smell this time witch ruled out my new referb alt failing , went and tested battery
with multy meter 12.85 volts she powered all right
and figured something wasint right..so i sat there boiling mad SERIOUSLY..calmed down and
started a new puzzle adventure with great fear of the ABS lights...

well here we go ....if no gas being pumped than its the fuel pump but my gas gage was fine
even with the cluster failer ??? gas was good then so but no smell it must be injectors
not injection ....witch hit me on an instant the immobilizer..... It preventing gas witch
is y no smell again the immobilizer controls fuel injection in the cyclenders.
hence pointed me again to alarm...so my final question witch cam to my conclusion of a
40$ part and fix was what controls the immobilizer and the alarm ????
THIS IS THE TRUTH THE IGNITION SWITCH controls alarm, immobilizer and a few other
switichs the ignition colm has a small metal rectangle shape with a circle in middle that
fits into a cheep plastic ignition switch insert YOU BELIEVE THIS CRAP plastic to metal
contact on a daily basis totaly not happy with volvo man SERIOUSLY a small plastic peace
beaing worn down with hard cast metal every day and my ABS fails because of this
multipal people have had hundreds of these exact problems and i bet a few
hundred s80's may be in the grave yard because of this but i will continue to
drive it with great passion if i can help in any way let me no.....

because i did countless hours of research prior to my (Ignition Switch) problem
it was much easier to come to this final conclusion with all of it i mean all of
CAR OUT FOR 4 DAYS...CONCLUSION------------- Ignition Switch cost 45$

Toronto Canada s80 t6 2000 .....196000 and counting polar arctic matalic tinted

post let me hear you........

hello all,

I am curious if someone knows or can help???

I have taken off the 16" wheels that came with the car from new and replaced them with some nice "17 wheels (looks the part now) buyest opinion

Does the new size of the wheels affect what speed I am travelling at now, or should i say what the speedo shows me? I checked with a GPS and the speedo seems to be showing close to 10km/h slower, however i never thought to check this with the "16 wheels so i don't have a comparison to check with

Does anyone know this?

Hello all,

I have just in the last few days noticed that when I accelerate i get this strange squeaking noise, but generally from about 2000rpm to about 2,500/3000rpm. and only when accelerating harder than normal driving. a strange squeaking noise like it is sucking air or perhaps blowing out air somewhere.

Any idea's guys would be most helpful. I dont know if it is from the turbo's, engine (hose somewhere) or somewhere else. I not long ago had the ETM replaced at Volvo.

Any and all help would be most appreciated.

Hello all,

I have not long ago had the ETM replaced in my car by Volvo, but i have only now recently noticed that my cruise control does not seem to be working properly. Sometime's I switch it on i can see the Cruise sign on the dashboard and but i can not set the speed at all. On some occassions the Cruise light does not even show up. Could this be part of Volvo changing the ETM or not related to that at all?

Anyone have any idea on why this would be some intermittently working??

Many thanks

Hello All,

i have my engine check light on and i have been told that the sensor on bank 2 sensor 2 (rear sensor) is the one that is faulty.

I am curious is the ONLY way to get this light out to replace the sensor? or can something be bridged to overcome this? I am asking as I believe that this sensor does not give any information to the ECU that actually affects the running of the car.. or correct me if i am wrong in this?

Just seems overly expensive to replace a sensor that actually does not do anything, but would be nice to get the light out

Many thanks if anyone can help with this.

Hello all,

Does anyone know the input/output diagrams of the HU-801 stereo? I am wanting to make a connector from the DIN in the back ot the head unit to a 3.5mm stereo jack. I just want to be able to add the music from my phone (mp3's)

It seems everything about this car is a national security as there is hardly any good information to be found. Sorry for the moan love the car, but made far to difficult to modify and play around with.

I can't believe that making a connector like this should have to be so hard? There much be a better way than spending $100's on a pre-made adapter kit.

All help appreciated with this..

Hi all. I have just bought a 2000 S80 T6 in Australia. I bought a brand new SIM and inserted it and it came up as "enter PIN". I entered one then it said "SIM not recognised."
I called Volvo Australia and they said that new SIM's would probably not work as the car was built when old SIM technology was around.
Can anyone help me with info or a work around?
Thanks...Brett

99 s80 non turbo
P0751. -chick had shift solenoids done this past weekend. Drove fine 2 days no codes.

Start it again, transmission service urgent comes up. Car will no rev past 3k RPM. Will not travel over 28mph but seems to shift. No rough idle, no surging. Runs smooth.

Pull car in garage, look for disconnected nonsense modules. Everything is OK. Reset dash. Check for codes and get
P1601 and p1603 and p1618

Reset dash again, start car pull it out of garage, still same drivability 3000rpm max, 28mph max. Rescan car p0751 but no p1601 1603 1618

Stuck!!!! What next? Its $738 for TB and reprogramming, and that's if I install the TB.

I have had a Mazda 3 that threw cel forshift solenoids but ended up being the tb with built in IAC.

With all the following, can anyone give me an idea as to how much further in this “Volvo S80 T6” tunnel of darkness I might expect to go before I see some light?! What other super common issues might I expect to have? Please share anything I have not listed…..promise I won’t cry.
Repairs made to my Volvo 2000 S80 T6 with 129000 miles
Rear brake pads
Broken fuel pump plastic housing
Squeaky glove box latch
Clunky sunroof glass
Drive axles right and left
Control arms w/bushings
Sway bar links
Turbo boost solenoid
New transmission
Headlight lens right side
Most vacuum hoses due to rot

Maintenance done as follows:
Spark plugs changed
Fuel filter replaced
Transmission filter and fluid twice before replacing transmission

Accessories done as follows:
Custom sheepskin seat covers
Wood grain look dash kit
Leather (wrapped) steering wheel cover
Current issue to address is no oil pressure message, plan of attack is to drop oil pan and replace o-rings and clean tubes, screen, etc.

I had read something about a box with possibly bad connections previously. I haven't been able to dig up the post again sadly.

Problems are, blower motor will not work, lately it won't come on until I hit a good bump in the road. When it is working all speeds function normally. So I do not think it is a resistor. I'm trying to narrow down if it is possible just the motor going bad, or possible really caked with dust.

Another issue, happens perhaps 1 out of 20 startups. I notice none of the console lights on the climate control system are lit up, this includes the traction control buttons and security button. In addition, the center roof light buttons do not work, as well as the sunroof controls.

This leads me to believe this is a bad connection that is causing all the problems. Any details on which connections, control modules, etc.; to start troubleshooting first would be much appreciated.

Hi all, (2001 S80 T6 2.8 Automatic)

Just in the last couple of days i have noticed that when i am accelerating i get this whistling (squeak is prob more correct) noise, but it is like it is either blowing air out somewhere or it is sucking extra air in somewhere.

Does anyone have any idea's that could help me with this???

I have heard that there are some small rubber hoses connecting to the turbos that are common to go, could this possible be the issue i am hearing or experiencing??

I am not experiencing any power loss at all and there is no smoke coming out from the exhaust. I there are also no oil leaks at all.

Please help as i would like to get this annoying shound eliminated (perhaps i am looking in the completely wrong place all together) ??

Many thanks

Tom

**Update**

I have looked at this more, this is not really a whistling sound, its more like the sounds you get when pulling the end of a baloon and let the air out Squeak is prob more like it

Hey all, I'm writing this on behalf of my parents who are on the older side and not very internet savvy. Sorry this post is long.

Let me preface this by saying that this car (2000 S80 T6) has been giving them problems for as long as I can remember. For the past year they've had to add coolant every 1.5-2 days because the 'coolant level low - stop engine' light would turn on. Where the coolant goes (esp that fast) - nobody knows.

Yesterday my mom was driving and she said the light came on around the same time white smoke began to come out from under the hood. She pulled over and when the smoke cleared a bit, drove the remaining 5 minutes to their house at which time smoke really started coming out. After opening the hood, the smoke cleared after 5-7 mins and my dad could see that the coolant reservoir was empty (despite filling it the day before) and that there was a significant burning smell.

He added coolant and immediately the coolant began bubbling/spewing out of the reservoir. After about 30 minutes of adding a little coolant at a time (due to the boiling/bubbling), the reservoir was finally full. He then started the engine and smoke began coming out of the reservoir (I think, I stood far far away).

He also wants me to state that when they turn the heater on, steam comes out of the air vent for a bit before clearing (they open the windows).

My dad used to be a mechanic back in the 70's and upon finding out what the problem is, wants to try to fix it himself (they can't afford taking it to the shop).

So my/his questions are these:

1. are they screwed
2. where is the thermostat
3. where is the heater core
4. is this a reservoir leak issue (some google searches have pointed towards this), though he said their mats are dry and no leakage from underneath.

I read on a forum that it could also be these: bad radiator, bad coolant reservoir, blown freeze plug, holes in heater hoses, leaky heater core.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and I apologize for my lack of car knowledge.

Thanks!

- Stella

Hello all - I've recently added a new hobbie to my list. I bought my first Volvo and it is a 1999 S80 T6. I've done several repairs on my car already and find the more I do the more that needs to be done. Next on the list is the Steering Rack as it is leaking and getting all over my driveway.... Not good.

I have read the forums over on this subject like with all of the other repairs done so far but there seems to be less information available specific to the S80 on this particular repair. I have found my replacement rack and sub mount bushings (figured I would go ahead with these while I was at it) and am ready to pull the trigger and buy them. I would feel alot better about doing this if I had a better idea on how to go about removing and replacing the rack. The big question I have is... Do I need to support the engine from above or can I use a jack on the bottome from the underside to take the load off. I do have a lift that the car will be up on and 2 long jacks are also available - seems to me that I should be able to support the engine from down below and drop the subframe?

Any advise on this from any one?

Thank you!

Hi there,
does anybody know where to get a front spoiler for the T6?
Or maybe just a spoiler lip?

I recently bought a 99 S80 and have discovered that the key that I have for the vehicle is not the original key that came with the car. I need to find out if there is a way to get additional keys since the VIN# reference won't work anymore. I was thiking there might be a code of some kind on the ignition tubler. Any advice?

I could use some advice on the CEL codes on my 1999 S80 T6. I have been told that I need a new cat and have cleared the code twice and they keep coming back so I suspect it means I really do need a new cat. I have shopped a bit online and see that the OE's are vrey expensive - nearly cost prohibative... Has anyone any experience at all with buying an aftermarket one? I see them for $300-$700 and am sceptical that if I purchased one - would it be ok? Can any one point me in the right direction?

okay so I have spent countless hours Googleing trying to find the answe. I have a 2000 t6 I've got a check engine light on it only shows 1 code the P1618. the vehicle seems to be in limp mode in other words my vehicle only has 3rd and 4th gear. I've tried to reset it with a couple different scanners with no avail. ive read numerous threads and just can't seem to find the answer. I also get a transmission service urgent message and a SRS airbag service urgent. 1 more thing my radio display keeps blacking out. any replies will be greatly appreciated anf would like to solve this issue

Just picked up a pre owned 2006 S80t 64k love the car small clank front end could be struts slight clank shift in low gear other than that car drives great and really comfortable...thought about bringing it into a dealer service dept just have it looked over see if any recalls need attention but don't want to deal with Volvo dealership if possible I use to own a Volvo 960 I know dealer service is merciless but I don't know what previous owner has done the owners manual looked like it was mint never opened any suggestions on what I might want to check out Indy or dealer servicing.
Thanks Rob

Help please. I need to get under the headliner in my 1999 S80 to see what is rattling up there. Could someone tell me how to lower the panel so I can make the requir ed repair.

Thanks for any advice.

I have a 2005 s80 we bought used when we tast drove it , it was fine. Now when the car is driven a few miles it goes back int first gear late and will jerk a little when accelerating for a stop. What could this be. Any Ideas ?

Where is the fuse located for my Cig Lighter socket in my S80 05 Volvo?

I have been reading many post today on this subject and before I go on back under the dash would like to know if i am wasting my time. I have a 99 S80, does anyone know for sure if the Shunt can cause only one low beam to fail? the light bulb is fine and so is the fuse. The problem is intermitent. The Volvo Dealer says it can't be the shunt or relay because both lights would be out.

Thanks for any advise.

Update - Today I took the car back to Volvo to diagnose the problem. of course the low beam came on when I started the car this morning and therefore Volvo can not diagnose while it is working. What I have found is that I only get the bulb failure message when I start the car and it stays on, it does not come on and off while I am driving. Does this suggest there is a CEM failure? hope not. cost is $1300.00 - $1,500.00

my boot lid won't close. Assuming it was a faulty part I got another from breakeryard.com and 2 closings later, this won't close either. Part number 9170974. What are the chances of both being faulty? Could it be something else?

Hello all

I recently had a code indicating the following sensors were not working;

Outside air intake ( underneath the wing mirrors)

Fuel pressure sensor ( on top of the fuel tank)

Brake pedal position sensor ( attached to the booster)

I replaced all with Genuine Volvo parts. However I still have these codes appear.

Are these sensors linked to something else? I did some work on my ABS module, could they be linked to this? I do not have the Abs light on. Has anyone encountered this problem?

Thanks

Iam new to this forum, as well as being a new Volvo owner (1999 s80t6). Got my user name typed in wrong and cant figure out how to fix. Help.

I just bought my 2004 s80 awd and im finding the handling to be kind of lackluster. What ways could I upgrade the handling and where should I get it. Its insanely hard to get aftermarket parts for these cars I've noticed already.

Hello

Any one know where the transmission vehicle speed sensor is located on a 2000 volvo s80

Thanks

Is there a way to turn off traction/stability control on the all wheel drive model?

I just bought a 99 S80 T6 and it won't crank over. I believe it's because of the shifter saying the transmission is in drive. I might be wrong but I'm thinking a computer won't let ir crank over if it thinks it's in drive..I can move the shifter through the gears like normal but the light and the dash will always say "D" no matter what position the gear shifter is in.. anybody have any ideas as to why this is happening and how to fix the problem? Thanks in advance...

anybody use the wifi elm327 on your iphone? what do you think about it? I am going to buy one on careucar.com.

I am getting pretty frustrated working on my beloved s80. My sunroof is not working at all and key in the driver's lock will not unlock all the doors, and it will only work mechanically from the outside. The door will unlock with both the remote and from the inside electronically. My door always had the issue of locking all the doors and then unlocking the front door all over again, but the key would always unlock all doors from the outside before; now its like it doesn't recognize the key at all. Both of these conditions (no sunroof) and (no outside electronic door lock) happened after i had left the battery disconnected for several days until I got an alternator.

The UEM appears to work just fine, all lights up there are working fine, remotes will work, but nothing happens with the sunroof. I tried to change the driver's door lock actuator with another used one but still nothing. My thought was if I could get a working door lock actuator then I could reset the system.

Any help would be great!!!!!!

dash says n/s/r door open then locks into 2nd gear then it says brake faliure then you loose the dash a bit at a time till all you are left with is a running engine, lights ,radio and heater. leave it overnight and its ok for a while then starts again. any ideas???

I just swaped the engine in my volvo s80, and next I need to reprogram the ecu, I had found some ecu reprogrammer, such as the carprog full v4.01, FGTech Galletto 2, SMPS MPPS, what is the best tool to reprogram an ecu? The SMPS MPPS is cheapest.

Hi All,

Can any one tell why my Battery Fuse Electrical Power Switch Breaker (beside the battery in the trunk) got melted....since its not completely melted that is why when engine is hot I am having the start problem....but early morning at cold it starts at first try.

Will appreciate replies.

Hi,

Finally I figured out that my Battery is all OK. But there is low volts 11/10 at when I check the positive line at engine compartment. This is the reason I think my car does not start at first start...i have to do 3 or 4 tries to start the engine. Any Idea how to solve it.

Can Anyone tell what is the function of Battery Fuse Electrical Power Switch Breaker along the battery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-S80-99-06-Ba...=p2047675.l2557

First post and a Volvo noob

I have a '00 S80 Turbo that has a very rough idle. I have removed all the turbo tubing and covers over the coils and plugs. I am going to change the plugs as they have carbon buildup on them. I also want to test the coils with a multi-meter, but need some advice as to how.

Thanks for any help.

I was vacuuming the interior after a car wash. After moving the driver seat up all the way to vacuum the rear and under the driver seat, the seat would not adjust when I attempted to move it back to the normal position. Power windows would not function either, but the radio would work. After brief panic subsided, I turned the vehicle off and let it sit for a minute or so. Upon restarting, the seat and windows worked, but now I have a SRS Service Urgent message.

Thoughts on causes, and does the SRS need to merely be reset, or is there truly an urgent need?

Thanks.

Hi guys

My Problem: Early morning when I switch on the car it starts in a first second. Later after city driving if switch off and start again it voice like khee khee khee khee….then in 3 or 4 try it starts or sometimes of I have to give it a small race.

I tried and found:

Change self-starter

Found two coils with small cracks (I changed one with new one but same results)

Change new air filter

Change new spark plugs

Doubts I have on

Engine / Transmission senor

Battery (Because it going to be 2 year old but while on testing it gives normal current so the battery said that it is ok)

While all this happening from 2 weeks I found two new problems

While driving i see the error on dash board panel “Drive slowly Service urgent”

Yesterday on sudden brake I found my engine behave like losing power but comes in normal position again.

Though I reset the error by grounding off but I feel there is something I have to change early before I get further problem. I will appreciate your feed backs. rest car is running condition at moment.

I've noticed lately that my car is eating through oil (I had to put in two quarts the other day). Any one else had this problem? If not what could it be?

Hello,

i just buy my first volvo s80 one month ago, its 1998.10 2.8 automatic with GM gearbox 200kw.
since i buy it i allready got message about the gearbox service it was sometimes stucking on the 3rd gear with S2 solenoid and RPM faults, ir was stucking on 3rd or skiping it at all. so i changed the gearbox from another T6 with same GM gearbox, and now i got incorrect gear ratio errors on 2,3,4 gears .i have tryed to change few gearbox computer but without luck, the owner of gearbox saying that it was working fine, and it really is. it shift very smoothly and without any hits. it only drops in safe mode when i am trying to keep stable speed in about 50-60km/h and get stuck in 3rd gear without any chance to switch in any other, i have to restart the car in order to get it working again. i believe this is the 3rd gearbox on this vehicle and canot slove the problem. i heard that the GM boxes is stronger then the aisin ones. i spend about 2k euros allready and still no luck!!! little bit details:
i connected vida dice and take it for a ride with RPM senosor graph on the screen one from engine and another signal from gearbox, so they are almost allways going at the same level and showing good information, since i get the error about the gearbox and stuck on 3rd gear the signal from gearbox RPM graph goes all the way up and stays on 6000rpm.if you need any other info from my diagnostics just ask. and please do not offer to change the gearbox becouse this is not the solution. any ideas?

My 9 1/2 yr old battery is ready for replacement. The Volvo dealer price is within $10 of auto parts stores so I will go with Volvo since such long life with the original battery. However, the dealer charges $70 for installation which is unreasonable.

The owners manual has specific steps (waiting 10 min after turning engine off before removing the battery and after installing new one, lock and unlock doors with remote, in addition to usual sequence of + and - cable removal/installation). I have read some posts on the internet of serious problems even though this procedure was allegedly followed.

Would there be a problem if I remove the old battery and wait approx an hour before installing the new one? This would be the time required to take the old battery to the dealer and get the new one.

I have posted before and havent really gotten much help but i will try again...LOL My S80 is having a nervous breakdown. I currently have only my center dash speaker on my radio functioning. I am also suffering from intermitten cruise control functioning. It will completely shut off with no warning and i am unable to turn it back on. I shut the car off and it will sometimes return other times it will not. I have no control of the radio through my steering wheel controls and I am suffering from intermitten STC functioning. Sometimes i start the car and its on other times i start the car and its off. My sunroof worked until yesterday and it has decided it will not work. I also have control over interior lights at times. Other times they will not come on at all. I also have the yellow warning triangle lit but it doesnt tell me anything. I have done the disconnection of the battery several times along with the key in the door. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Hey,

Can anyone please help me?

I have a 1998 S80, 2.9Litre. I love the car, but unfortunately for the past 6 months the Speedometer just disappears when I am half way through a journey. The engine management light comes on as well as other various lights.
The problem seems to be electrical and the car runs on LPG (but this has not been a problem before).

It has been to a volvo electrician but they have not really been of any help.

Can anyone point me into the right area?

Would really appreciate someones feedback on this problem.

Cheers,