Volvo Forum : Volvo Forums -> 2G (2007+) S80 Forum

I drive an S80 2.5Turbo Nov 2007 model. Until the first 100,000 km I did not have any problems at all with the car. The normal 20,000 km service intervals passed with no major issues. After the 100,000 km major service within weeks I found the Oil Level Low message coming up on the dashboard display. After topping up the engine oil and continuing to run the same problem started recurring on average every 3,000 km.

My car has been in and out of the Volvo service centre several times without a permanent solution. They just do not seem to know what is the problem or where the oil is going. One time they replaced a sensor and charged me a bundle for it, but within weeks the same message came up again. The undersides and the engine compartment itself is clean and dry without any sign of oil leakage.

At the time of writing this the car has been in the service centre for almost 2 weeks. It seems they have stripped the engine down and some major work is being done. I am dreading the bill for all this work. However having said that I am wondering why this car, less than 3 years old with only about 160,000 km on the meter, developed such a complicated problem. Whatever happened to Volvo's much flaunted reliability and durability?

This is not normal wear and tear, as so far it has stumped the service centre people. It is definitely some defect, and I am thinking of taking up a claim against Volvo for a defective product.

Anyone else here with a similar problem before this and what transpired ? Would love to hear about it.

Before I made the final decision to purchase my 2008 S80 T6 AWD, i checked with the dealer and was told that the transmission fluid is meant for the life of the vehicle and is not to be changed. I am really struggling with this as I approach 50K miles and have experienced some harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shifts multiple times. My instinct tells me to change the fluid pronto (i've already flushed out the power steering due to some whine), especially since 1: where i live and the car has lived in the midwest with 100+ degree F summers and zero degree F winters, and 2, I like the turbo, yes, i like it a lot, and don't mind using it.

So is anyone out there changing their tranny fluid anyways? If so what are you using for fluid if you are? I can't imagine going 60K plus miles on the same fluid, let alone 100K plus that I plan on keeping the car.

Thanks in advance,
jason

Have new S80 with approx 3500 miles always garaged when not in use. Have noticed drivers seat leather is cracking and chipping on seat bolster and back bolster outer side. This is very disapointing to me to have this happen so soon in a new car. I just sold my 2000 Lexus and the leather didnt look this bad and the car had 125,000 miles on it. Has anyone else noticed this premature cracking in the leather? I havent been back to the dealer yet but would like some feedback from other owners who have had this issue. Thanks

Well, I'm about to close a deal on a 2010 S80 base 3.2. I've read through the posts here and it seems that overall, from about '08 to current, these cars are pretty tried and true and don't suffer from too many problems. The car has 39k and is immaculate, is certified and will come with 6yr/100kmi warranty. I know my way around an 850 pretty good and will be doing all the service myself, so feel free to advise me of anything I need to peek at before closing this deal (drivers seat leather will be scrutinzed

) as well as any discussion on tips/tricks. Moving from an '09 VW TDI. Looking forward to the car and camaraderie!

Hey everyone

I have had my 08 S80 now for 3 months. I have had an intermittant problem that the dealership cannot replicate and the mechanic has not seen this issue yet.

Does anyone else find that the power steering on their S80 sporadically get really tight after starting the car? To the point it feels like the power steering is gone? I am finding that, with an unknown pattern, after starting the car it just feels like it doesn't work. Then, if I just turn off and then re-start the car, it is perfectly fine.

I cannot find a pattern yet on how to replicate it with any consistency.

I am hoping that someone else has seen this and maybe has some insight on why it does it so I can work with the dealership to get it fixed. The computer doesn't show any error codes so they don't even know where to start.

Thanks....
Jeff

Hi
I have a Volvo S80 2.7 year 57.
It has developed a fault with the AC and heater. It started with the front passenger side seat not heating up.After nearly 11 month of noticing this the passenger side heater was blowing hot air no matter what tempeture I chose. I put it in my local volvo dealer garage and they said by recharging the AC usually fixes a lot of problems concerning the heater. When I got the car back they had not fixed the fault by recharging the AC and i would have to put it back in for a more in depth annoglistic check. When I drove the car away I noticed that instead of the heater blowing constant heat it was blowing constand cold no matter what tempeture i chose for the passenger side. My car went back in to the garage for a more closer look at problem having realised at this stage the driver seat was not heating up. Again they checked everything but were unable to rectify the problem. I have been told this system is all interconnected AC,heater and seat heaters and I must have a fault somewhere on the loop. To find the problem they are going to have to take the dashboard out steering wheel and seatsand try and trace fault. Although the fault could be a minor wiring fault or similar they charge Â£98 an hour labour so I have beeen told it will take 2 hours to strip then how long after that is anyones guess. Well I have not got an open cheque book and really need to keep these costs down. The car does have a Plan B volvo warrenty but to be honest its not worth the paper it is written on and would advise anyone not to take that plan. Spend your money on a decent one.
Has anyone come accross these problems before so I could point the garage into the right direction, would I be better giving it to a garrage which specialises in AC's and heaters.

We own a 2007 s80 with 60k on it. While driving 95 through NC to Fl the warning light for an elictrical failure came on. I immediately exited thinking the alternator was going and did not want to be stranded. The vehicle completely lost power a few miles later. I called the local volvo and advised I needed an alternator. They looked at it the next morning and told me that one of the battery cells had died and it just needed a new battery. They ran 45 minutes worth or diagnostics and came up with no other codes. I left and went about a half a mile and the battery light came on. I went immediately back and they hooked it back up the the comp and advised that the alternator was shot. Am I being ripped off here on the battery part? I'd also like to know why I knew it was the alt. and I'm not even a mechanic. Can a bad battery even take out an alternator?

Hi every body. I have a U.K. registered 2007 S80 with 2.4D 163b.h.p. engine. On 2 occassions in last week the engine revs have died to tick over as I have pulled away from stationary. Only way I can restore full power is to switchoff the ignition and restart. On one occassion it was wet and the engine was cold, other time it was dry and engine was warm. I have lots of theories, good and bad but has any body any good suggestions. I should add that no dash warning lights show while problem is occurring. Any ideas gratefully received. Many thanks.

My car has only 57,000 miles on it and have had continual problem with radio operation and reception. A couple of days ago the entire audio system stopped working. Took it to dealer and they said it was "Code: ICM DTC U1A1587, Verified internal failure in the audio module unit", it would cost me $690 to fix and it is NOT covered under extended warranty! Since when do such stupidly basic necessities such as radios in cars break down so early? And not covered under warranty? http://www.volvo-forums.com/style_images/1...icons/icon7.gif
Any work arounds maybe? Or am I doomed to silent drives for the next 10 years?

Thanks!

Hi.

This is my first post here and hoping you can help. I just got a 2010 S80 V8 about 6 weeks ago and so far it has been great however i decided to do a couple of little upgrades (namely changing out some of the lights to LEDs). I have swapped over the licence plate and trunk lights to some nice CANBUS LEDs which look great however I would really like to do the interior lights too but have ran into a problem.

Does anyone know how to get access to the front and rear overhead courtesy/map lights? There doesn't seem to be any way to remove the clear plastic cover to get at the bulbs. The footwell, licence plate and trunk lights were really easy as there was a small notch where I just used a flat head screwdriver and popped off the cover. However the overhead lights don't have this and I cannot see anyway to access them (without causing damage).

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

I bought a 2007 S80, 32 FWD, 40k miles with the factory extended warranty - 6 years 100k miles. There are two more years remaining on the warranty and I want to perform the factory recommended preventive maintenance to keep this warranty in effect. I just got my first "book maintenance" and I will use the tip from this forum to reset - thank you very much. I have always done my own work on cars and I know the most important tool to own is the maintenance manual, shop manual, technical info, etc....
Does anyone know of a good source for the "how to" steps on Volvo S80 repair work? Are there any factory manuals in print? How about aftermarket publications? Is there a recommended OBD tool? Thanks in advance.
Paul

To access the cabin air filter door, I removed two torx head screws on the black cover that holds the light beneath the glove box. The cover drops down and you can unclip the light wiring connector to get the cover away from the passenger side foot well. You need to bend the carpeting down from the upper left corner, but the center console sidewall holds it in place, so pull the front lower edge of the sidewall and a couple snap-in fasteners will pop loose. Now you can move the carpet corner down and away from the area of cabin air housing, which sits directly in front of the center console. There are two compartments here and it looks like the aft compartment holds the A/C evaporator, or maybe the heater core, or both. Forward of this is a smaller compartment with a door on it. You can see the three "hinge" points on the aft edge and the three opening handles on the fore edge of this door. The upper handle is hard to see if you don't stand on your head and get way down in the foot well, but all three handles operate easily by the "Braille" method. Once the door is removed (it measures about 2 inches wide and 8 inches tall)you can tug on the filter element and it will slide out, bending as it goes. It is quite flexible with a felt frame around the charcoal gray filter pleats. Volvo Part Number 30767022 and BEHR part number K8741002. I ordered one on line for $29 plus shipping. My filter element has a permanent distortion kink impressed on it and probably did NOT do a good job of keeping particles out of the cabin because it didn't fit the filter holder accurately. I'll be more careful putting in the new filter element than the last technician was.
Three days later and I got a replacement air filter. This one is white and I wonder if the gray color of the old filter was due to dirt in the fibers? It is a bit tricky to get the new filter in without kinks and bends. I removed the fuse block cover so the filter could be squeezed into the space between the firewall and glovebox. Then I started the process of push, pull, straighten and then more push, pull, straighten until I got the filter completely inside the housing. I feel very confident that there are no malformations in the new filter because i can easily slide it back and forth in the filter compartment. There are a few inches of clearance in which the filter can be withdrawn without having to bend and contort the shape. I have now completed 100% of the 45,000 mile service operations.

With the help of this forum I did the recommended maintenance on my wife's 2007 S80 3.2 today. Everything went well and I was even able to reset the "book maintenance time" message with the tips from "DIY Mechanic".. Thank you, sir. You are a gentleman and a scholar, and there aren't a hell of a lot us left!!
I followed the Maintenance Service Operations tables on pages 60 through 65 0f the 2007 U.S.A/Canada Warranty and Service Records Information manual. To change the oil you must drop the plastic skid shield under the engine in order to access the oil pan drain plug. Be careful when replacing the seven mounting screws as they thread into plastic fixtures and can easily be stripped. The oil filter is expensive ($25 at pep boys) and not too difficult to remove if you bend the power steering reservoir aside for clearance. I used a 36mm socket with a long extension, as recommended by a contributor to this forum.
Coolant level check is simple. Battery water level check requires disconnecting the positive lead, which is bone simple and requires no complicated follow up. Just reconnect and away you go. I plan on using an absorbant gas mat (AGM) battery when I do my first battery replacement. They are maintenance free.
Power steering level is easy. I filled the washer reservoir and got about 4 ounces overflow onto the floor. Next time I'll stop short of full based on the sound of the gurgle into the fill tube.
I have not yet done the cabin air filter, but i expect to find it under the glove box. Anybody got tips for that?
The brake fluid min and max markings are inside the reservoir and visible after you remove the fill cap.
My front brake pads are like new and my rear pads are about 50% worn. I examined the pads by using a high powered flashlight and looking through the "spokes" of the mag wheels.
I have documented all my work in a log book and I can provide receipts to Volvo if I need to prove that the service was accomplished.
Paul

I am a first time volvo owner, a 2008 s80. It's my wife's car but I get to ride in it on special occasions, and of course also take care of the maintenance issues. I had the oil changed at a local quick change, and have no idea how to reset the service reminder that comes on every time the car is started. A call to the dealer (over an hour drive away), told me the dealer has to make the reset for a charge of $20, on top of the drive. Does anyone know if I can purchase software and interface cable and make the reset myself? Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

Has anyone else been having similar parking sensor problems?

My 2010 S80 T6 has factory front and rear parking sensors; the front right parking sensor (no others) malfunctions all the time and displays/sounds like I am 6 inches or less from an object even when there is nothing anywhere near my car (front or rear). In particular it is worse when the car is in reverse, like backing into my flat/level driveway.

I have asked 2 different dealerships to look at it on 3 different occasions (7,500 mi, 15k mi, and some warranty work at 18k mi); all 3 times they have said there are no codes coming up when they test it. They said they can physically replicate and see the problem I am having, but it's not showing any error codes. This last time, I tried insisting that was not the way the system was designed to operate and they need to either replace the front right sensor or the entire parking sensor control module; but they said without error codes they can't replace anything under warranty.

I am trying to find out if other people are having/had this same problem before I contact Volvo Cars North America to get it finally repaired.

I had a sensor go bad which I had replaced with the tire by a local tire retailer. The sensor was replaced with an approved replacement that transmitted at the same frequency as the other sensors on the car. I have driven the car as recommended for over 30 minutes above 25 mph but the errors on the DIM are still showing.

The errors include Tire Needs Air Now, Tire Pressure System Service Required, and Book Time For Maintenance. The retailer has replace hundreds of sensors on all kinds of cars but cannot figure out how to clear the errors on the S80. They have the sensor scanning tool and see alll four transmitting and have connected the diagnostic tool to the OBS port but doesn't have an option to manually add in the sensors or import the sensors that have been previously recognized. Could the sensor be the wrong one even thought its transmitting properly at the correct frequency? Is the only other option to "reset" the TPMS is to bring to the dealer?

Just purchased an 09 S80 3.2, pick it up wednesday- son will get the 99 S80 w/201K.
sales manager offered extended warranty 6 yr/100K for $2244. did not ask what deductable was, but will.

I know the discussion about is it worth it, but my real question is "are their dealers who offer it at a slight markup rather than full price. Not interested in an "insurance" company warranty- if I get one it'll be w/Volvo

Bought a Ford warranty sometime back- paid $1100 to a ford dealer rather than the advertised $1900.

Thanks

Hi all,

Just bought a 2008 S80 V8 (44 000km's on the clock), had a E class Merc before so quite a change I must say!, so far so good but I have a few questions which someone can hopefully answer as I took it into my Volvo dealership (also happens to be where the car has been serviced since day 1 with the previous owner) and they didnt help much:

Firstly the dashboard seems to be quite creaky? ie. If you take corners or even nudge it with your hand when not moving it seems to creak?

Is that normal in this car?

Secondly, I seem to hear a slight knocking noise in the front suspension when driving over rougher surfaces but not on the highway or smoother roads. Dealership says they checked the suspension and didnt find anything.

Lastly my built-in bluetooth mic could be faulty as people say I sound like Im miles away, Dealership has ordered a new one but they say they have never had that issue before, maybe it should sound that way?

Would appreciate anyone's opinion/experience etc.

Thanks in advance!!

I have a small leak at the (?Not sure what part is called)-air vacuum cover on my 07 3.2l S80. As I live a good distance from a Volvo dealer, I am trying to solve this problem my self. The problem seems to be two-fold. One: It seems that on the back of the plate(one with 5 torx bolts), when they de-burred it they went just a bit to much-right around where one of the bolts goes in. Thus leaving a low spot. Two: the square-ring that surrounds the housing just interior to the plate seems to have compressed a bit. Now I have taken this square-ring out and measured it with calipers and I have found what seems to be possibly a standard fit. Not real sure. Hard to get size since it may have been stretched. I called the Volvo folks and they can't even seem to identify the part. Hmmm. Any suggestions? I did use some sealant just outside the square-ring but seem to still have a little leak. I did not want to put sealant down into groove of s-ring. Maybe I'll have too. I would hate to replace the whole housing just for this one little part. BTW this is a FORD Mo company part. So there seems to be no listing for it. Inside this housing there seems to be a little bearing that goes round and round creating a vacuum. There is a small amount of oil in the housing that keeps the thing lubricated. Thanks for any help. I do have some pictures of this area and just a general engine picture form another site. Can't seem to find any engine breakdown pictures. Thanks for ANY help.
[attachment=9036:1.JPG][attachment=9037:2.JPG][attachment=9038:3.JPG]
[attachment=9040:4.JPG][attachment=9039:5.JPG]

I'm a newbie to the forum - find the forum quite informative.

I've had my S80 for a few weeks and am enjoying it. I find the transmission is making "clunking" noise when engaged (from P to R or D), and have the same noise when I'm driving below 30 mph on a smooth road. The noise is quite audible and confirmed by one of the mechanics at local dealership. It goes away above 30 mph or not as audible. The clunking to me seems like something heard from older transmission where components maybe loose. The mechanic spent a day with it and with Volvo rep, but couldn't find anything that's obviously wrong. He checked engine mounts and struts, and verified no metal shavins in the transmission fluid. Checked tolerances of the draft shaft with another S80 - couldn't find anything wrong. He suggested perhaps the draft shafts may be out of tolerances, but couldn't be certain. Even the Volvo rep suggested that we wait till something more obvious (I translated that to be major broke) happens. Mileage is 5,100, 3.2 I6 S80. Thanks for any insights!

PS: Anybody knows if S80 inherited the "axle ping" issue?

I bought a brand new 2010 3.2 S80 towards the end of Sept 2010.
Ever since I bought the car, it hasn't driven right. I complained from day one and volvo said there is nothing wrong with the car. RPM's are jumpy when going up a hill and the car jerks with a loud bang when starting out sometimes. The car has been in the shop at least 5 or 6 times to have it looked at.
First time, they updated the software, then they reset the adapations, then software
The second to last time they replaced the valve body. Problems still occurred and they were finally able to reproduce the jolting problem. They worked with the engineers and said they need to replace the transmission.
Since the car is less than 5 years old, it is obviously still under warranty but that is not the issue.

There are 2 issues really. I have been paying a hefty car payment for a car that has been peforming under par since the day I drove it off the lot. The dealer said they will take my case to Volvo. I think the car will have been in the shop for over 30 days in total
Second, I feel like I should get rid of the car because of this. I am concerned about replacing the tranmission on a new car. Should I be concerned with this and any possible problems down the road?
Maybe I am worried for no reason.

Hello
My 2008 S 80 has 12800+ miles on it. The noise started around the 1st of the year (2011). It has not occurred during 2 drives with the Volvo service reps. They have assured me they have checked wheel bearings ect and can't find any problems. When it does occur it's a steady humming noise. If I shift into neutral and rev the engine or change lanes the tone / pitch of the noise stays the same. If I stop and start up again the noise is goes away.

Last week end I made a round of 250 miles. On the toll road about 15 miles from my house I heard the noise and pulled over on the shoulder and I got out of the car and I thought I smelled a burning odor by the rear wheel on the drivers side. When I started back up the noise was gone. On the way back to home I heard the noise again louder than other times it's happened. Again I was 10 or 15 miles down the road from my departure point. I had to make a turn off PA 56 on to PA 22. A clover leaf ramp maneuver form one road to another where I had to slow down to about 25 MPH. When I got back up to 60 MPH the noise was gone and I didn't hear it on the rest of the return trip.

I'm being told that since they can't hear the noise there isn't a problem. I guess I expected better answers than that. I expected that Volvo of North American would have a clearing house or an engineer or what ever for these types of service issues.

Do you have any thoughts or advice on what may be the cause or what my next steps might be?

I have a 2008 S80 V8 with roughly 90,000 miles that recently started to create a whine/hiss that is continuous and varies in pitch and volume with the engine speed. It is nearly inaudible at idle but eventually becomes audible and gets louder at higher rpm, though it never becomes loud enough to be bothersome. My research indicates that the whine could possibly be coming from the cars alternator. The only thing that puzzles me is the fact that it only makes the whine/hiss noise when the car is in gear, i can rev the hell out of the engine in neutral or park and everything sounds perfect.

Is the whine in fact coming from the alternator and could it be doing any damage? If it is the alternator what would need to be done to fix the problem?

Thanks.

I changed out the rear brakes on my 2007 s80 myself and after it was done, the parking break service light came up. I have the electric parking brake option.

I called the dealer and they said that the computer system needed to be involved to release the piston to go back inside the caliper. I used a special brake caliper tool rented from Auto Zone and that worked to send the piston back inside the caliper. Dealer says that they can hook up the computer system to the car to re-calibrate the rear brake system and parking brake and that they hope that I did not permanently damage anything.

Are they trying to freak me out because I didn't spend a ridiculous amount of money for them to change out my brakes? Is there a cheaper way (they want to charge me $100 to hook up the computer to my car) to do this?

Thanks!

I have an '08 S80 T6 with the Sport Package which has the 18" rims. The OEM tires were Pirelli P6 Four Seasons that had a 97V Load and Speed Rating. This winter has been brutal on my tires and I've damaged three already in pot holes, so I'm looking to replace all four. I was interested in another tire, specially a Continental, but it's a 93Y. The speed rating is greater than the V but the load rating of 93 is less than the OEM 97. Think this is okay? Has anyone else ever gotten tires with a lower load rating than OEM? The Curb Weight of the car is 4000 lbs which should be accommodated by the 93 rating which is 1433 lbs per tire, but wanted to see what you thought.

What was Volvo thinking here?! Or, perhaps I don't know some special trick...

I did my first oil change today. In theory, it was a great idea to have the oil filter cap
now oriented UP, allowing oil to drain and a much cleaner filter change (helps to break the seal,
let it drain for a minute or two, and then remove). BUT, this filter seems to have NO access from below,
and VERY limited access from above. I had to unhook the power steering fluid reservoir and bend its hoses
to be able to squeeze the old filter and the filter canister cap up by a very limited opening.
If there was more than 1/8" (or, about 3 mm) of extra wiggle room to get by, I'd be amazed.

After completely draining the oil, then and only then, did I realize I needed a special tool to
get to the inch-and-a-half-or-so hex head on the filter canister. Since getting to a dealer was
not going to happen anytime soon, I wound up making a hex cutout in a small piece of hardwood
which did the trick.

There was one note from 2009 with someone with a 2008 that seems to have had similar experiences.

Are there any tricks to dealing with S80 oil changes?

Another issue was I saw no evidence of any drain plug washer. Is that possible? I carefully
checked the drained oil, and scratched around the oil pan in case it stuck there, but nada.

Just bought a 2007 S80 with under 15K miles. The car is in excellent shape and everything is great except one thing: the last few times I've driven the car, the blower for the climate control will not come on. It shows that the blower is being increased/decreased on the display, but no air is being forced from the vents. Initially I thought it could be something simple like a fuse, but the fan will start to work after driving for a few miles or hitting a hard bump such as railroad tracks. When the car is shut off and restarted, the fan will not work just like before and must be coaxed into working again.

The air is ice cold and obviously working, just no fan.

Any idea what this could be?

It is still under factory warranty, but the dealer is 40 miles away and I would love to fix it myself if at all possible (simple).

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,
My sister has a 2007 S80 with a 3.2L and since she's had it it goes through about a quart every 1000 miles. The dealer tells her this is normal!?!?. I've been working on cars for 30 years and if my car was using a quart every 1k miles, I'd been looking at doing a rebuild. I have a 10 year old Ranger with 185k miles on it that uses < 1/2 qt in 5k miles and it has a minor rear main seal leak too!! Has anyone else experienced oil usage like this?

There seems to be a TSB:
TJ19302 APR 09 Engine - High Oil Consumption/Bad Or Uneven Idle
but I can't seem to find the details/specifics. Does anyone have the whole TSB writeup?

Thanks, Ron

		Time is now: 25th May 2013 - 05:01 PM
© 2004 Volvo-forums.com

Auto Parts