P1800, 1800 & 1800ES Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Hello everybody I just put up a little introduction blurb about myself in the noobie area. I just bought a 1966 1800S and it needs a couple things. Ill put some pictures up soon for everybody to check out. The biggest problem is something with the clutch. The car has been sitting for a bit and won't shift while running. It runs beautifully though, and for that I'm grateful. The clutch pedal has no pressure at any time. When the car is off I can shift into any gear without depressing the pedal, but while it is running it will not shift into any gear, and sometimes grind if I try reverse. The fluid in the master cylinder and slave cylinder is pretty much up to the top and looks clean. I haven't bled it yet. Anyone encounter this before?

Also on a side note, if anyone has both complete headlight assemblies, blinkers, and taillights lying around I'd be interested in them. Any other information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi guys I'm new to this forum, and right now you seem like my last chance before I go pay too much money to get this fixed.

I was driving my 1973 p1800es home from work one night. It started fine and drove like normal until I took a right turn:

I put my signal on and it made a strange buzzing noise. Once I completed the turn and the signal shut off I tested it again and it did not work. I figured a bulb blew or something so I thought nothing of it. Parked it and left it for the night. When I came out in the morning the car was completely dead. I boosted it and it will only start when put in any gear but reverse. When it's in neutral there will be no power to anything at all. I can start in first, and put it into neutral and it will run like normal but I can take the key out and it will still run, once I put it back into gear it'll shut off. Also this is the 4 speed manual with overdrive model.

The turn signals do not work at all either now.

Any ideas?

I am lost, I've put new relays in and nothing has changed other than that I can get signals again, but they flash in a weird sequence, not an even regular pattern.

Please help!!!

Thanks

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I need a key blank for my 1800S gas cap, trunk, door. The key I have is a Taylor V76T. Anyone know a source?

Thanks

Hello all. I just acquired a 1966 1800S that has been in my family for about 35 years. It has been sitting for 10 years without running. I drained the tank, added new fuel, battery, and some starter fluid - started right up. No brakes except E brake. This was enough to get it on and off a transport truck to bring it home to Merion PA. But there is now a good puddle of oil under the car. Hopefully just the oil pan or valve cover but needs to be attended to before running again.

I am looking for someone to work on the car in my area. Does anyone have a suggestion for a competent garage?

Photos attached.

Thanks

Greetings, did a search and could not find any information on this. Has anyone tried to retrofit seatbelts or a child seat into the rear seat area of the 1800s? I am thinking it should be possible and safe with the new side anchor type child seats, but if someone has already invented the wheel...
Thanks.

Proud owner of a 1973 1800 ES. Recently purchased an ECU part #0280 000 025. I believe the ECU in my car is a 02800 000 034. Will these units interchange? Are the manifold pressure sensors the same?
Thanks.
John

Hi, I have been looking for a pump with no luck so far. Does anyone know of any universal pumps that will work?

I was looking at something like this:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Univ...ngs+Best+Seller

Or is there any way to adapt the fuel injection to accept the Mechanical pump that the carbureted engines have?

Thanks in advance,Oz

[attachment=10153:misc_019.jpg][attachment=10153:misc_019.jpg] Heres a real quandary. While sitting in my driveway with the engine ideling, there was a loud metallic "ping", and the engine almost died, then started making god awfull clatering sound's. The best analogy is that of an engine that had swallowed a valve. Now comes the dillema part. after sitting for a day I pulled the valve cover off to look for a dropped valve, but found none. I then attempted to start the car but was only able to by pulling out all four plugs and spraying ether into each cylinder. after getting the car to start, it runs like it's never had a bad day in it's life. Now it start's and runs just as it did before. I cannot for the life of me figure out what broke. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

My 1966 P1800 has been garaged for about 4 months, we're in the north east, it's cold, and I just pulled it out 2 days ago. Got her started no problem after jumping the battery, but now all of the sudden I can't shift into gear. Nothing at all. I can almost get it into reverse, but then I hear it starting to grind on the gears. This has never happened. Could it have something to do with sitting idle in the cold? It was working fine 4 months ago. Thanks for any advice out there!

I'm considering the purchase of P1800 which does not have air conditioning. Can anyone tell me if an aftermarket ( or original OEM A/C units can be added to a '71 P1800 and at what estimated cost.
I love the car but will need one with AC. Thank you for the advice
Robert

Hi folks,

My fuel return into the tank appears stopped up. High pressure air will not clear it out, and I can prod a wire a couple of inches inside the fitting on the side of the tank, but that is as far as she goes.

Am I pushing against a valve inside the tank, or can I use more force to try and clear it? I assume that the return line ends somewhere in the bottom of the tank, and that a lot of crud and varnish have built up and stopped it all up.

Further inspection revealed lots of junk and rust in the tank. It has a beige coating on the inside of the tank, but it has loosened in many areas, and surface rust is beneath it. Right now the tank is soaking with a water/acid solution, and I plan on an aceton soaking next, to try and get rid of the varnish and old (failed) tank coating.

This car has sat still for many years.

H: Looking for a fuel pump 70 1800E, can't find one on line. Thanks/Paul

I have a 1973 ES and the overdrive just stopped working for no apparent reason. It was working fine then one day it wasn't at all. I looked at fuse panel and did not see any blown. any ideas

Can anyone help me with instructions/diagram of how to remove the lock from the back hatch? My ES won't lock (broken tab), I have the part to replace it but cannot figure out how to get it apart to repair it.
Thank you,
Indy in WA

Hello all,
We are hatching a dastardly plan with a P1800 as a platform.....except we have not got near a P1800 yet!!

We are desperate to find out the dimensions of the engine bay, can you help? - Consider it a 3 dimensional box and give us the length of the bay from Firewall to the front, Width of gap along firewall, width across front (slam panel??)height from Hood to bottom of bay (basically how tall can an engine be to sit in it)

Close up piccies of the bay from above and underneath would be very kind!

Warmest Regards

[font="Georgia"][/font][size="3"][/size]
When fitting axle shafts in the Type 2 Spicer differential, how does one adjust spacing (end float) from side to side? We are seeing a 1/32 or so difference when attempting to fit. We are replacing oil seals, bearings and all outer shields. All advice much appreciated. (1966 1800S)

Hi there,
I'm new to Volvo life, This is my girlfriends dream car. I bought it for her 3 months ago only a month after buying her another one, so we now have 2 ES's. One parts car and one beauty. Unfortunately the Beauty has some issues, first and foremost is as soon as you drop it into gear (Auto trans) the revs drop to around 500 and the car dies, we are about 100 miles from Dallas so taking it to a local mechanic is not an option and money is getting tight so this is a fix i have to do right here. I am new to Volvo mechanicals but I do have a good mechanical understanding, even if my knowledge of automatic transmissions and fuel injection is a little limited. I have checked and replaced sensors, hoses and contacts and it idles great at 1300 to 1600 revs and can easily be tuned between these ranges but tries to die when
a gear is engaged.
Please help me make my girls dreams come true.
Many many thanks.
Limey.

As this is my first post I'm a bit embarrassed that it is a plea for help and advice. However, I'm a bit up against the clock on this neat old P1800 I found....as usual, by accident....and owned by the same couple for 30+ years. They just want to get rid of it. I have the opportunity to acquire a 1967 P1800. The car is white, body is straight, no bondo and no evidence of having been in a wreck. I had the car up on a lift and the drivers side jack point is pretty well rusted through. The rest of the underbody does not exhibit any more than normal rust one would expect for a 44 year old car and I thought it was quite good. Rockers feel and sound good and I can see no corrosion that frightens me at the moment. Wheel wells and floor pans, except for the aforementioned drivers side jack point, appear to be in good condition. Car runs ok...carbs need attention....no smoke or obnoxious noises from engine, gearbox, differential, brakes or suspension. It has what appears to be add on A/C, trunk floor is solid and trunk is clean internally. It comes with an extra engine and I don't know if the one in it is original or the other. It also includes an uninstalled overdrive unit and an assortment of other parts. Clutch feels ok.....interior is kinda tatty but definitely usable.

I've been dinking around with British and Italian sports cars for....well, long enough that my beard has been white for a decade or two...hehe....so I'm not a complete newby to the sports car scene. I am however, ignorant of the P1800 and other than the obvious problems, (rust), with most Europoean sports cars from the 60's and 70's don't know much about them. Although I am new to Volvo I have long admired them and my ex-wife and I owned a 1971, 144 back in the mid-70's.

My question, what would this old sports car be worth? I know pictures would be a great help but I am old enough to be technically challanged. I see others of the same vintage and apparant condition going for between $3000 and $5000. Is that about the market for them now? Any and all help appreciated.

Hi, i just bought a 1800ES and the front leather seats are pretty worn, does anyone have any for sale or what should it cost to have them recovered

Well I just found out mwhy my tach is not working - first day warm enough to look into it - the wires go through the firewall and stop...not attached to anything - there are no apparent wires to connect it to but it also looks like the distributor may have been upgraded since it does not have points - can somebody let me knw where to the 2 wires leads are supossed to go to ? or a wiring diagram... thanks !

When most people think of Volvo, they think of boxy designs, however, that has not always been the case, and current Volvo's are as sleek and curvy as cars get.

While Volvo has produced some attractive cars in its lifetime, perhaps the most loved and admired is the P1800. While first prototypes of this car hit the roads in 1960, eager buyers had to wait another year to get their hands on this beautiful 2+2 coupe. Interesting point to note, while the prototypes were built by the Italian coachbuilder Frua, initial production vehicles were built by Jensen Motors in U.K.

While officially Volvo offered two body styles, the original coupe followed by an estate version in 1971, a US-built convertible model was also briefly teased in 1966.

Perhaps the two most famous P1800′s belonged to Simon Templar (played by Roger Moore) from the TV-series "The Saint" and Irv Gordon, a teacher who has covered 2.8-million miles in 45-years of ownership.

Even after 50-years, the design looks well proportioned and beautiful, and it will be celebrated at the TecnoClassica show in Essen, Germany at the end of March.

More: Volvo P1800 Turns 50 This Year, Still A Looker on AutoGuide.com

Hello there, I'm new to the forum and could not find any information under the search engine on Legroom on a P1800.

I'm 6'4" with a 32" inseam. Will I fit in a P1800?

I found one I like for sale, but before I fly out to see it, I'd like to know if I'll fit in it.

TIA

I just picked up a P1800es and have been able to figure everything out but I cannot seem to get the rear hatchback glass into proper alignment - I see that there are 2 screws on the glass side and a bolt in the inside of the roof but was still not able to move it enough to keep it from hitting in the lower corners. Are my hinges just worn out ? or am I missing something ? Also does anybody make the lock mechanism for the rear hatch since mine is broken ? All help is greatly appreciated...

Hello... I am currently doing a Volvo P1800 build and I am in the process of desiging a Flush Mount Glass kit for them.. My company Classic Auto Glass Innovations designs new style glass for the classic cars, and I am working on a kit for my personal build.. These kits are made to install with absolutely NO BODY MODS, and install in a matter of couple of hours.. No Welding, No painting, NO cutting, ect, ect.. Right now Classic Industries and OPG are selling my products in their catalogs, along with alot of other retailers, so these kits are not cheap Plexi...

If you may be interested in a kit, so I can curb some of my cost for my personal build, I would be interested in offering the kits to P1800 owners.. I dont plan on making alot of them, because I am not sure the demand will be there or the number of current builds are high..

I would appreciate any feedback, and I can add you to a contact list when available, if you want to contact me at Robert@classicautoglassinnovations.com Below are links to one of our other car lines running our products..

www.evadecamaro.com

www.classicautoglassinnovations.com

Thanks

Rober Jackson

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I have a 1965p1800 (B18). Given to a mechanic to tweak and do minor repairs. He placed it in a garage ~100miles from my home, took the car apart and skipped town. Will sell it but...should it go as "parts car" or be re-constructed and sold as "restoreable"?

Hi Everyone,

I'm currently in the middle of rebuilding a B20E engine from a 1971 1800E. The engine is down to the block and I'm going to the machine shop on Thursday to get an assessment on the state of the engine. What I currently know is that the engine was rebuilt at one time boring the cylinders to .020 over (unknown to me even thought the car has been in the family since '71).

I'm anticipating that the block will require boring out, so I was thinking of shooting for the moon (within reason) and go for .040 over with a cam that offers more lift to the piston. Is adding power that easy or am I opening up a can of worms?

Thanks!

I am the proud new owner of a 1972 wagon and have no idea how to lock the back window. Everything on the car is working which leads me to believe that it is not broken and I am doing something wrong. All help is appreciated.

I am a proud owner of 1973 P1800ES. There are a ton of questions, hopes and dreams for this baby...
But right now my immediate questions is the cold engine starts.
My baby starts fine on the first crank of starter but I have to lay on the gas pedal to keep the RPM around 1,500 to 2,000 or the engine will die.
I have do this for at least 3 ~ 5 minutes...
I really don't want to be revving my cold engine like that every time I start the baby up.
Maybe this is unrelated but once it warms up it idles fine but the first push on the gas pedal from traffic light, etc. seems like almost kill the engine. A second later the engine catches and gets going fine. It does this every time...
Any way it has an automatic transmission (only thing I wish it was different on this car)

Thanks,
Hide

I'd like to get my car out for a nice drive now that the weather is getting so nice.
I figure that there are others around that feel the same way. I live on Long Island,
New York and figured that I would ask if anyone else lives around here and knows of
a group meet or gathering. I usually get my car out once a week to go down to
Captree Boat Basin on Sunday mornings. There is a rather large group that meets over
there every week until NY State starts charging for parking. Then the group starts
meeting over in the old Oak Beach Inn parking lot (where there isn't ever a fee to
park). But that group is largely American Muscle cars. While I like to see them,
there isn't a huge import group.

So, where do you guys take your cars?

Is there any drives or rallies planned?

I should mention that I belong to VCOA and will be watching for any gatherings listed
in the back of the Rolling magazine.

-Ken

I am restoring a 1968 1800s and I need a new gas tank.

I am just starting on the restoration of a 1965 Volvo 1800 again. I started two years ago then bought 1 1965 Thunderbird a 1966 GMC truck a 1962 Chevy C10 Truck and a 1950 Hudson Commodore. Those projects I have mostly finished except for a few finishing touches so its back to the Volvo, which has been a car I have wanted to drive for 25 years now.

I seem to be having troubles finding brake calipers for this car. The ones on the car are original rusted dead and unworkable. Not even able to be fixed by 4 people I have taken them too. I found one set from a local Volvo guy but he wants $1000 for them. Real sweet guy I told him my story and he thought kaching money money money (ha ha ha I am a cheap bugger). I am hoping to find someone that has an idea of where I could find a set or could help me on ideas for a part interchange.

I am also looking for good forums and sites for this awesome car I am located in Mt. Vernon Washington. Thanks to anyone that can help.

Hi all.

Im having a problem with the overdrive on my '67 1800s. When i take the car out first thing in the day and i head off the overdrive works a dream, then over the next 20-30 miles or so the engine starts to rev up on its own which indicates the transmission has jumped out of overdrive. I disengage the overdrive and when i try to re-engage it, nothing ! It will not engage the OD anymore. The red indicator on the dash comes on indicating that that relay switch is fine so im confused.
My dad and myself put a new clutch in and replaced the oil seals as i thought maybe a gear oil leak was causing the pressure to be too low to engage the OD. But the problem still persists. Its strange that it works when the car is first driven but then does not after driving some distance. It could be a fault in the solenoid, but the wires are fine and making a good connection and as i said it does engage first time after the car has been siting idle overnight ! Has anyone had a similiar experience ? Nothing worse than driving on the motorway with only 4 gears !! Not enjoying that and its not good to be stressing the engine so.

kind regards to all.

Tom

Just got a 1972 es1800. Was trying to get the lock off back window. Took bolt off and cylinder slides out 75%. 1) How do I get cylinder out? 2) How do I get large metal base in back off? 3) If I need parts/flat lever or more details on how I can get this working - where do I find info?
Thanks, Bob
PS: Had a coup for 13 years and now just got an 71e & 72es

Just bought a 68 P1800 and I have a very funky VIN plate ...
Have you guys see anything like this ??? I looked into 544 or other model but nothing makes sense ... not even color numbers or upholstery numbers ...
any idea why

The chassis number and body numbers make sense but that plate is a total mystery to me ...

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I'm currently doing some suspension changes to the front of my 1967 Volvo P1800S. I'm living in FL and my car is back at my house in MD so I can't make any of these measurements myself. I am hoping a fellow P1800 owner can measure (from the ground) the ride height of the bottom of the fender area, and the height of the bottom of the front crossmember at ride height. I'm changing around the suspension quite a bit, and I don't want the car to ride too high, or too low, so these measurements will help me quite a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks everybody.

Hello Everyone,

Two days ago I scraped up enough to purchase a locally owned 1972 P1800E. I paid two grand for her. Its in pretty good condition. Paints not too bad, interior is nice, I am going to have to attack an undercarrige rust issue before it gets too bad. Probably need new rockers, a couple of spots on the floor pans, and if fortune is not smiling on me it may likely have a soft right front frame rail. Overall I think its a solid nice car that I can drive a lot hopefully. I am not the most experienced man in the world in terms of cars and I definately am not the richest so I thought I would run a few questions by all of you to see if your insite could help save me some trial and error dollars.

First: I have read that the engine is not known for being quiet but it seems a little loud to me. Exhaust all seems fine. I may have a bit of a valve cover leak so I am gonna replace the gasket this weekend. Could that have anything to do with noise. I was thinking about buying a new sound dampening valve cover but im not sure if it will help enough to make it worth it.

Second: My locks seem to be wonkey and I live in a city so securing the car is going to be a must. I also noticed that even if the doors locked right then it would be easy to open the vent window. Any suggestions on how to fix the doors, secure the vent windows more, or suggestions for a good security system?

Third: I have an automatic and while I know everyone loves their sticks and the auto p1800 is not that desirable. I am an automatic kind of guy and dont plan on racing my car anytime soon so is there anything I should know regarding maitenence for my tranny? What kind of fluid should I use?

Thank you everyone for reading this book I just wrote but I am a little nervous that maybe this purchase wasnt the best idea financially but I do love the car and if I can get half the performence that Irv Gordan has then I have made the right choice for a fun little driver. I probably will have a few more questions in the future. Thanks for any help you can give.

-T

I am planning to fit a 1800ES rear axle dated 1973 onto my 122. I am not sure if I am gaining anything other than the disc brakes but would like to know if the diff is limited slip and what ratio it might be as compared to stock 122

Hi guys, just wanted to share this restoration job with you. It's' a daily blog of an 1800 restoration. check it out here: http://www.refinishnetwork.com/volvo-restoration

I've had my '72 Automatic 1800ES Volvo since 1992 (am 2nd owner/car had 44K when purchased, now has 78K) and as much as I love this car, it's been a money-pit ($30K+ in repairs) and has never been reliable. I'm in Los Angeles and I've had a terrible time finding mechanics who know what they're doing. The only one I eventually found who did, moved back to Sweden 8 years ago and I've been floundering ever since. In '06 I came upon some extra cash and decided to invest it in the car and did the following:

Mechanical: (total paid - $2326)
Installed rebuilt transmission (car historically dumped & leaked trans fluid)
Replaced ignition wire set
Replaced Distributor cap/rotor
Replaced valve cover gasket
Replaced leaking fuel pump
Replaced front/rear break pads
Replaced front/rear break rotors
Replaced muffler hangers
Modified heater system with U-pipe (car has overheating issues/runs hot)

The car then went to a body shop for total body restoration (it stayed there 2.5 years...don't ask - whole experience was a nightmare - see *notes)
Total Body/paint: (total paid: $4500)
Complete Floor panel welding (car is now rust-free)
*body shop owner kept losing his staff to INS raids and DUI's..am not joking. He was unable to replace the locking assembly on back hatch; both front doors can't lock anymore - ie., car is now unlockable inside and out; from sitting outside the carpet and upholstery dried up and is faded and cracked respectively; stereo no longer works.

After 2+ years at the body shop, the car obviously needed some engine work, even though the body shop owner would start it and drive around a little. It was sent over to the original mechanic and they did the following:

January '09 repairs (total: $688)
Minor service
Replace air filter
Throttle body
Points /Condensor
Replace 2 tires

I drove the car and it NEVER felt right...super slow..worked hard to transition from gear to gear...smoked inside on passenger side...couldn't go up hills or ANY normal incline...this ended up being the transmission, so it went back to be adjusted, free of charge. Got it back again and it drove better for a little while, but it still didn't seem right. In April '09 car needed the fuel hose replaced ($219) so we did that. And THEN end of May '09 it went back in the shop for the following:

Rattling/grinding exhaust noises (they suggest taking it to Midas)
No hazard lights
Fuel pressure regulator leak & seal adjustment ($168)
Fuel filter replacement ($105)

I've been thinking about selling the car since then and haven't done any of these repairs. The mechanic has allowed me to store the car until I make up my mind. Now I've decided I don't want to sell and need advice/comments/referrals from anyone on this crazy saga.

Cheers.

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selling a volvo 1800s i beleive the car is a 1968, resto project there is all brand new sheet metal for the car including brand new front fenders, brand new rear quarters, brand new rear trunk pan,new hood, many other new parts. i do not no much about volvo's but i would like to sell the car complete will all the parts but may consider selling induvidual parts let me know if anyone is intersted the parts are from volvo and have been sitting in a shop for about 25 years they are all still in original packing from volvo, the engine was redone also on the car, if anyone is intersted in the car or parts please let me know my email is garretleier@hotmail.com the car and parts are located in Regina, Sask Canada thanks.

I have a 72 Volvo p1800e. Actually I have two. : ) I am trying to put an ultra hottie set of wheels on the car. The car has been modified (I didnt do it) but it is stock height.

The wheels I want are a 17"x8" and the tire the TIRE Rack is recommending is a 225/45r/17. The offset is 38mm. Overall height of the wheel tire combination would be 25 inches

Does anyone know if this will fit without rubbing or other problems?

If you dont think it will fit, is there a largest tire width/wheels size/tire size/offset combination that some knows will fit??

Certainly someone has walked down this ugly ugle path before. : ) JON

I've got a 72 ES with fuel problems. My mechanic thinks it might be a corroded pick up line in the tank but we recently replaced the fuel sending unit and the tank is nearly spotless, including the brass filter at the bottom so I don't think that's the cause.

The car runs perfectly on a full tank until I use about 15-20 litres (4-5 gallons) of gas, then it runs like air is getting in the system or as though only pulses of fuel are getting to the injectors. The more I try to run it with less than 2/3 of a tank, the worse it runs. This happens with every tank of gas for the last year.

The only exception to this rule occurs when I have a full tank of gas but the engine is very hot. For example, I recently drove about 100 km (60 miles) out of town and filled up before I left. The car ran perfectly for the first 45 minutes then started hesitating intermittently. It's like the fuel supply goes off for a second, on for a second, but surprisingly the car almost never stalls. In this case, I pulled over and let the car cool down for 10 minutes and it ran perfectly the rest of the way.

To summarize - the car runs like crap with less than 2/3 of a tank or when it is very hot. Any suggestions?

Felt the clutch cable snap in my 1972 P1800... Thinking about putting a new one in myself... They are easy to order... this would be my first project on this vehicle... i have mechanical knowledge and have worked on other cars, but never this one... any suggestions on this project, where to start, good web related P1800 fix it sites... thanks

Im putting this on here for my Dad cos hes usless with computers

Volvo P1800s for sale
1967 'E' reg
Outer body shell had bare metal respray 2 years ago, hasnt been driven since
Front seats recovered in black leather
New clutch
Stainless exhaust
Excellent tyres and suspension
Engine sounds ok

To finish off it needs:
Clutch slave cylinder
One brake caliper on front
Bumpers need re-chroming
the bonnet has been dented

£1750 ONO
Call Stuart on 07711 117592 for any details
Car based in Portsmouth, England

i'm a 240 guy, but i can respect and appreciate the classics, apparently this guy doesn't

http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-...QQAdIdZ90969475

ps for those who aren't familiar with what group b rally is, if you're a race fan, check it out.

Help.... ALT light came on and now my battery won't charge. I have a 72 es wagon and all was fine until I went out of town for 2 weeks, came back and it was dead. I jump started it and it ran fine for several days and then I took it out on the freeway for the 1st time. It did fine on the drive but as soon as I got off the freeway the ALT light came on and the next morning... dead battery. I hope its not the alternator any suggestions?