P1800, 1800 & 1800ES Forum

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I am the proud new owner of a 1972 wagon and have no idea how to lock the back window. Everything on the car is working which leads me to believe that it is not broken and I am doing something wrong. All help is appreciated.

I am a proud owner of 1973 P1800ES. There are a ton of questions, hopes and dreams for this baby...
But right now my immediate questions is the cold engine starts.
My baby starts fine on the first crank of starter but I have to lay on the gas pedal to keep the RPM around 1,500 to 2,000 or the engine will die.
I have do this for at least 3 ~ 5 minutes...
I really don't want to be revving my cold engine like that every time I start the baby up.
Maybe this is unrelated but once it warms up it idles fine but the first push on the gas pedal from traffic light, etc. seems like almost kill the engine. A second later the engine catches and gets going fine. It does this every time...
Any way it has an automatic transmission (only thing I wish it was different on this car)

Thanks,
Hide

I have a 1965p1800 (B18). Given to a mechanic to tweak and do minor repairs. He placed it in a garage ~100miles from my home, took the car apart and skipped town. Will sell it but...should it go as "parts car" or be re-constructed and sold as "restoreable"?

I'd like to get my car out for a nice drive now that the weather is getting so nice.
I figure that there are others around that feel the same way. I live on Long Island,
New York and figured that I would ask if anyone else lives around here and knows of
a group meet or gathering. I usually get my car out once a week to go down to
Captree Boat Basin on Sunday mornings. There is a rather large group that meets over
there every week until NY State starts charging for parking. Then the group starts
meeting over in the old Oak Beach Inn parking lot (where there isn't ever a fee to
park). But that group is largely American Muscle cars. While I like to see them,
there isn't a huge import group.

So, where do you guys take your cars?

Is there any drives or rallies planned?

I should mention that I belong to VCOA and will be watching for any gatherings listed
in the back of the Rolling magazine.

-Ken

Hi folks,

My fuel return into the tank appears stopped up. High pressure air will not clear it out, and I can prod a wire a couple of inches inside the fitting on the side of the tank, but that is as far as she goes.

Am I pushing against a valve inside the tank, or can I use more force to try and clear it? I assume that the return line ends somewhere in the bottom of the tank, and that a lot of crud and varnish have built up and stopped it all up.

Further inspection revealed lots of junk and rust in the tank. It has a beige coating on the inside of the tank, but it has loosened in many areas, and surface rust is beneath it. Right now the tank is soaking with a water/acid solution, and I plan on an aceton soaking next, to try and get rid of the varnish and old (failed) tank coating.

This car has sat still for many years.

I am restoring a 1968 1800s and I need a new gas tank.

Hello there, I'm new to the forum and could not find any information under the search engine on Legroom on a P1800.

I'm 6'4" with a 32" inseam. Will I fit in a P1800?

I found one I like for sale, but before I fly out to see it, I'd like to know if I'll fit in it.

TIA

I am just starting on the restoration of a 1965 Volvo 1800 again. I started two years ago then bought 1 1965 Thunderbird a 1966 GMC truck a 1962 Chevy C10 Truck and a 1950 Hudson Commodore. Those projects I have mostly finished except for a few finishing touches so its back to the Volvo, which has been a car I have wanted to drive for 25 years now.

I seem to be having troubles finding brake calipers for this car. The ones on the car are original rusted dead and unworkable. Not even able to be fixed by 4 people I have taken them too. I found one set from a local Volvo guy but he wants $1000 for them. Real sweet guy I told him my story and he thought kaching money money money (ha ha ha I am a cheap bugger). I am hoping to find someone that has an idea of where I could find a set or could help me on ideas for a part interchange.

I am also looking for good forums and sites for this awesome car I am located in Mt. Vernon Washington. Thanks to anyone that can help.

Hi all.

Im having a problem with the overdrive on my '67 1800s. When i take the car out first thing in the day and i head off the overdrive works a dream, then over the next 20-30 miles or so the engine starts to rev up on its own which indicates the transmission has jumped out of overdrive. I disengage the overdrive and when i try to re-engage it, nothing ! It will not engage the OD anymore. The red indicator on the dash comes on indicating that that relay switch is fine so im confused.
My dad and myself put a new clutch in and replaced the oil seals as i thought maybe a gear oil leak was causing the pressure to be too low to engage the OD. But the problem still persists. Its strange that it works when the car is first driven but then does not after driving some distance. It could be a fault in the solenoid, but the wires are fine and making a good connection and as i said it does engage first time after the car has been siting idle overnight ! Has anyone had a similiar experience ? Nothing worse than driving on the motorway with only 4 gears !! Not enjoying that and its not good to be stressing the engine so.

kind regards to all.

Tom

Just got a 1972 es1800. Was trying to get the lock off back window. Took bolt off and cylinder slides out 75%. 1) How do I get cylinder out? 2) How do I get large metal base in back off? 3) If I need parts/flat lever or more details on how I can get this working - where do I find info?
Thanks, Bob
PS: Had a coup for 13 years and now just got an 71e & 72es

Just bought a 68 P1800 and I have a very funky VIN plate ...
Have you guys see anything like this ??? I looked into 544 or other model but nothing makes sense ... not even color numbers or upholstery numbers ...
any idea why

The chassis number and body numbers make sense but that plate is a total mystery to me ...

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I'm currently doing some suspension changes to the front of my 1967 Volvo P1800S. I'm living in FL and my car is back at my house in MD so I can't make any of these measurements myself. I am hoping a fellow P1800 owner can measure (from the ground) the ride height of the bottom of the fender area, and the height of the bottom of the front crossmember at ride height. I'm changing around the suspension quite a bit, and I don't want the car to ride too high, or too low, so these measurements will help me quite a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks everybody.

Hello Everyone,

Two days ago I scraped up enough to purchase a locally owned 1972 P1800E. I paid two grand for her. Its in pretty good condition. Paints not too bad, interior is nice, I am going to have to attack an undercarrige rust issue before it gets too bad. Probably need new rockers, a couple of spots on the floor pans, and if fortune is not smiling on me it may likely have a soft right front frame rail. Overall I think its a solid nice car that I can drive a lot hopefully. I am not the most experienced man in the world in terms of cars and I definately am not the richest so I thought I would run a few questions by all of you to see if your insite could help save me some trial and error dollars.

First: I have read that the engine is not known for being quiet but it seems a little loud to me. Exhaust all seems fine. I may have a bit of a valve cover leak so I am gonna replace the gasket this weekend. Could that have anything to do with noise. I was thinking about buying a new sound dampening valve cover but im not sure if it will help enough to make it worth it.

Second: My locks seem to be wonkey and I live in a city so securing the car is going to be a must. I also noticed that even if the doors locked right then it would be easy to open the vent window. Any suggestions on how to fix the doors, secure the vent windows more, or suggestions for a good security system?

Third: I have an automatic and while I know everyone loves their sticks and the auto p1800 is not that desirable. I am an automatic kind of guy and dont plan on racing my car anytime soon so is there anything I should know regarding maitenence for my tranny? What kind of fluid should I use?

Thank you everyone for reading this book I just wrote but I am a little nervous that maybe this purchase wasnt the best idea financially but I do love the car and if I can get half the performence that Irv Gordan has then I have made the right choice for a fun little driver. I probably will have a few more questions in the future. Thanks for any help you can give.

-T

I am planning to fit a 1800ES rear axle dated 1973 onto my 122. I am not sure if I am gaining anything other than the disc brakes but would like to know if the diff is limited slip and what ratio it might be as compared to stock 122

Hi guys, just wanted to share this restoration job with you. It's' a daily blog of an 1800 restoration. check it out here: http://www.refinishnetwork.com/volvo-restoration

I've had my '72 Automatic 1800ES Volvo since 1992 (am 2nd owner/car had 44K when purchased, now has 78K) and as much as I love this car, it's been a money-pit ($30K+ in repairs) and has never been reliable. I'm in Los Angeles and I've had a terrible time finding mechanics who know what they're doing. The only one I eventually found who did, moved back to Sweden 8 years ago and I've been floundering ever since. In '06 I came upon some extra cash and decided to invest it in the car and did the following:

Mechanical: (total paid - $2326)
Installed rebuilt transmission (car historically dumped & leaked trans fluid)
Replaced ignition wire set
Replaced Distributor cap/rotor
Replaced valve cover gasket
Replaced leaking fuel pump
Replaced front/rear break pads
Replaced front/rear break rotors
Replaced muffler hangers
Modified heater system with U-pipe (car has overheating issues/runs hot)

The car then went to a body shop for total body restoration (it stayed there 2.5 years...don't ask - whole experience was a nightmare - see *notes)
Total Body/paint: (total paid: $4500)
Complete Floor panel welding (car is now rust-free)
*body shop owner kept losing his staff to INS raids and DUI's..am not joking. He was unable to replace the locking assembly on back hatch; both front doors can't lock anymore - ie., car is now unlockable inside and out; from sitting outside the carpet and upholstery dried up and is faded and cracked respectively; stereo no longer works.

After 2+ years at the body shop, the car obviously needed some engine work, even though the body shop owner would start it and drive around a little. It was sent over to the original mechanic and they did the following:

January '09 repairs (total: $688)
Minor service
Replace air filter
Throttle body
Points /Condensor
Replace 2 tires

I drove the car and it NEVER felt right...super slow..worked hard to transition from gear to gear...smoked inside on passenger side...couldn't go up hills or ANY normal incline...this ended up being the transmission, so it went back to be adjusted, free of charge. Got it back again and it drove better for a little while, but it still didn't seem right. In April '09 car needed the fuel hose replaced ($219) so we did that. And THEN end of May '09 it went back in the shop for the following:

Rattling/grinding exhaust noises (they suggest taking it to Midas)
No hazard lights
Fuel pressure regulator leak & seal adjustment ($168)
Fuel filter replacement ($105)

I've been thinking about selling the car since then and haven't done any of these repairs. The mechanic has allowed me to store the car until I make up my mind. Now I've decided I don't want to sell and need advice/comments/referrals from anyone on this crazy saga.

Cheers.

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Sale Dept.

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selling a volvo 1800s i beleive the car is a 1968, resto project there is all brand new sheet metal for the car including brand new front fenders, brand new rear quarters, brand new rear trunk pan,new hood, many other new parts. i do not no much about volvo's but i would like to sell the car complete will all the parts but may consider selling induvidual parts let me know if anyone is intersted the parts are from volvo and have been sitting in a shop for about 25 years they are all still in original packing from volvo, the engine was redone also on the car, if anyone is intersted in the car or parts please let me know my email is garretleier@hotmail.com the car and parts are located in Regina, Sask Canada thanks.

I have a 72 Volvo p1800e. Actually I have two. : ) I am trying to put an ultra hottie set of wheels on the car. The car has been modified (I didnt do it) but it is stock height.

The wheels I want are a 17"x8" and the tire the TIRE Rack is recommending is a 225/45r/17. The offset is 38mm. Overall height of the wheel tire combination would be 25 inches

Does anyone know if this will fit without rubbing or other problems?

If you dont think it will fit, is there a largest tire width/wheels size/tire size/offset combination that some knows will fit??

Certainly someone has walked down this ugly ugle path before. : ) JON

I've got a 72 ES with fuel problems. My mechanic thinks it might be a corroded pick up line in the tank but we recently replaced the fuel sending unit and the tank is nearly spotless, including the brass filter at the bottom so I don't think that's the cause.

The car runs perfectly on a full tank until I use about 15-20 litres (4-5 gallons) of gas, then it runs like air is getting in the system or as though only pulses of fuel are getting to the injectors. The more I try to run it with less than 2/3 of a tank, the worse it runs. This happens with every tank of gas for the last year.

The only exception to this rule occurs when I have a full tank of gas but the engine is very hot. For example, I recently drove about 100 km (60 miles) out of town and filled up before I left. The car ran perfectly for the first 45 minutes then started hesitating intermittently. It's like the fuel supply goes off for a second, on for a second, but surprisingly the car almost never stalls. In this case, I pulled over and let the car cool down for 10 minutes and it ran perfectly the rest of the way.

To summarize - the car runs like crap with less than 2/3 of a tank or when it is very hot. Any suggestions?

Felt the clutch cable snap in my 1972 P1800... Thinking about putting a new one in myself... They are easy to order... this would be my first project on this vehicle... i have mechanical knowledge and have worked on other cars, but never this one... any suggestions on this project, where to start, good web related P1800 fix it sites... thanks

Im putting this on here for my Dad cos hes usless with computers

Volvo P1800s for sale
1967 'E' reg
Outer body shell had bare metal respray 2 years ago, hasnt been driven since
Front seats recovered in black leather
New clutch
Stainless exhaust
Excellent tyres and suspension
Engine sounds ok

To finish off it needs:
Clutch slave cylinder
One brake caliper on front
Bumpers need re-chroming
the bonnet has been dented

£1750 ONO
Call Stuart on 07711 117592 for any details
Car based in Portsmouth, England

i'm a 240 guy, but i can respect and appreciate the classics, apparently this guy doesn't

http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-...QQAdIdZ90969475

ps for those who aren't familiar with what group b rally is, if you're a race fan, check it out.

Help.... ALT light came on and now my battery won't charge. I have a 72 es wagon and all was fine until I went out of town for 2 weeks, came back and it was dead. I jump started it and it ran fine for several days and then I took it out on the freeway for the 1st time. It did fine on the drive but as soon as I got off the freeway the ALT light came on and the next morning... dead battery. I hope its not the alternator any suggestions?

I have a 72 p1800es and am in need of a good mechanic in the Los Angeles area. Anyone have one that they use? Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, I am on the hunt for a spare wheel, it is the 5 hole type, as I do not have a spare in the boot. I do not need the tyre or hub cap or beauty rings, just the metal wheel part and possibly the studs. The down side is I am based in London, so I am limiting my search but would appreciate if anyone could get in touch. The thought of finishing my restoration and driving around without a spare wheel, dont feel good. Thank you all and look forward to hearing from anyone fairly close by. Thanks Jimmy. London. UK. www.myvolvo1800.blogspot.com

For those of you who have seen my website on my 5 year restoration, I have updated it with new pictures, and have more or less finished. Those who have not seen it, have a look and would love to hear what anyone thinks.
Thanks Jimmy. London UK. jimmynicola@hotmail.com

www.myvolvo1800.blogspot.com

Hi everyone,

I currently own a 1983 240 Volvo DL, which was given to me by my parents as my first car and I have since been hoping to get an 1800 that I could work to fix up and call my own.

I have always had an interest in finding a great car to restore and I think the 1800 would be a great one.

I was hoping you guys could help me in telling me what to look for when searching for a good project car and what I should stay away from.

Any input at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to all

have a chance to buy a 1967 1800S complete car, not running. floor pans and trunk pretty solid. everything seems there but will need restoring. he is asking $2500. want it to play with then drive. any opinions??? thanks for your help.

hi,

retooling my collection on ebay and i have an extra 1800es and some other interesting models for sale that i thought someone here might be interested in. my user i.d. is:

blitzkonker

thanks for looking.[attachmentid=3943]

my father inlaw has a p1800 and skipped town!

i was left with a box full of transmission parts and a planetary overdrive unit.

i want rid of it.

whats it worth?

This is a chart from a 1971 "Salesman's Guide" publication from Volvo. If nothing else, it will stop arguments when people call a 1969 1800S a P1800.

Hi everyone, I am new on this site and thought I would show fellow 1800
owners and restorers my 4 year restoration on my Volvo P1800s 1964. Its
taken blood, sweat and tears but I think its looking good. Cant wait to
drive it. I would love to hear what you think as it encourages me to
carry on. Thanks Jimmy UK London.
http://www.myvolvo1800.blogspot.com/

Hi

I've just bought a 1968 P1800S but what I would have thought is the choke, on the right hand side of the steering wheel near my knee - its a right hand drive, seems to be completely stuck - or is not the choke! Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Cheers

My rear carb spills petrol at a scary rate from the little vent by the fuel line, do any of you know the problem? could it be the fuel pump? i ask that cos the petrol was still pumping out for a few seconds AFTER the engine stopped running, any help guys??

Oh yeh i put my finger over the hole and the motor cut out!

i posted this in the amazon page aswell but you gusy share the same motor(well some do)
mines a '64 122s

I have a 1971 P1800 and can't locate a switch to shut off the roof lights. Are they strictly controlled by the door contacts or is there another swich hiding someplace?

HI, I have 2 P1800's. One of them has what looks like a full length factory fitted opening roof. I had a P1800 30 years ago, another 1961, but I've never seen a sunroof on any P1800. Any ideas?

hej,
i'm looking for more P1800 Stuff for our website. Ads, Pix and Videos...

Volvo Classics

Maybe you can send me some stuff?

Hi, old butterfingers me dropped one of the wirestops used on the choke cables of my '67 P1800 and it is nowhere to be found. I've tried finding a replacement, but it is like looking for the Holy Grail. Does anyone out there know where I can find one or, possibly, does anyone have one they can spare? Thanks, Paul

Hi, Can anyone tell me how interpret the following VIN: AS362746. Thanks, Paul

have a look at this performance tuning b18 engines tell me what you think
i found it when i was looking for amazon stuff but the site this is on is all for 1800's
let me know if you like my little find

ps one day i hope to get the 1800 from a farm near my home!!!

Hi,

I am in the market for two stock wheels for my 1967 P1800S. I don't care about rust, but the rims must be straight. If you have rims for sale, please contact me at pjd822@hotmail.com.

Thanks,

Paul

hello i am the proud owner of a 1968 volvo p1800s, which i am currently starting to build or have built a performance "B20" engine. so any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated.