1G (1998-2000) S70, V70 & V70XC Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

I made this tool at work to check for intake leaks and leaks in the vent system.
Some people will by Fog machines in shops that will do almost the same thing.
This is only a picture of the tool and a small idea of how to use it.
This can only be used with a air compressor.

So I got the round plastic cap looking thing from a New fresh air hose that was purchased from the Dealer for a Customer.

Then I got a pressure regulator with a gauge on it.
Also got some couplers that matched the air lines at work.
I installed the couplers on the regulator first. one female and one male so it can be installed inline with the hose.
I than took the plastic cap and drilled a hole in it. I drilled it small enough that the coupler could be screwed into it.Then took a female coupler that had female threads in it rather than male threads and screwed it on the male part of the threads on the cap.

Then when you need to check for an intake leak or boost leak you can remove the induction hose from the massflow and slide the cap into the hose and clamp it in there.
Then remove the oil cap.(I loosen the cap and stick a rag between the cap and motor to prevent splattering oil when the cap vibrates)
Then plug in the hose to the regulator setup.(Make sure the regulator is turned all the way down so no air comes out. Then turn the regulator up to about 3 PSI 4 max.
Then listen for leaks. If you can't hear anything leaking get a bottle of soapy water and spray all connections looking for bubbles.

Fix leaks as needed.

Here is the pics of the tool.

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part # for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

I have to Volvos, a 99,C70 and a 00, V70 they seem almost identical when you look under the hood. (Thats the reason why I post this in two places)



The alternator seems to be overcharging the battery making it very hot and you can smell the battery acid after a few minutes of driving. I just put in a new battery and hoped this would fix the problem, but the car still is acting up the same. The only light that came on is the "alternator is not charing" light. (light #13 in the manual. Shows a battery with a + and a -) Volvo should just have skipped #13 and moved right to 14.....maybe thats the reason I had to do so much work on my car the last year.

I guess I have to bite the bullet and have the alternator changed, but I was hoping there would be some kind of cheaper fix like maybe a voltage regulator or something else that could be causing the problem.

I have changed the ABS module myself which I felt was fairly easy. How much harder is it to change the alternator?

I have been looking for a "do it yourself guide" on this forum regarding the changing the alternator but have not found one. Any links are much appreciated. I seen very nice guide about changing the ac system. Something similar regarding the alternator would be great.

Thanks!!

The remote locking/unlocking on my S70 has lost its range. I've changed the batteries in the remote control fobs which has made no difference. I still have to be virtually touching the windscreen to get the system to work, but then it does work.
I've had the top off the dashboard and checked the remote sensor on top of the speedo but it's like looking at inside of a transistor radio with nothing obviously broken, dirty or loose!
What goes wrong with these things?
Can it be fixed?
I took my car to the dealers yesterday to have the fault codes read to try to find out what the problem is but no fault was shown except a flat battery in the alarm siren which I believe is a separate system. So I still don't know why my remote range is so poor.
Anyway the LED light on the dash is now flashing like mad when the ignition is turned on indicating an alarm fault so I suspect the siren battery is causing that. Furthermore I can't set the alarm off on purpose now either.
So:
Could the flat battery in the siren be causing the poor range of the remote locking?
Can the siren battery be replaced or do I have to replace the whole siren unit?
This is under the nearside wheelarch cover I believe. What sort of job is it to to get at the siren if I try to do it myself?
Sorry it's such a long one, so thanks in advance.

Hi --

I have a 2000 V70, and have noticed that every now and again, my brake lights don't work when I depress the brake pedal. I have service scheduled for next week for it, but I wonder if anyone else is seeing this and knows of a quick fix.

THanks

I know that it's not unusual for the cooling fan to stay on for a little while, but it stayed on until it completely drained the battery. I had to get a jump start and now the cooling fan does not turn on. What caused this to happen and what's should I expect to be the mechanic's rate for such repair?

Hello all! This is my first post on this forum. I have read/posted on other forums, but they are having problems, so I was decided to come here.

I finally got around to replacing my busted heater core today. Symptoms I had were a "sweet" smell when I turned the heat on, damp carpet on both the driver and passenger side floors, film on the windshield and finally the check coolant light started coming on.. My Volvo is a standard 1998 V70.

I initially called the local dealership and a local import repair shop and was quoted $700+ and $1000+. I unfortunately don't have that kind of money floating around, so I searched online.

I managed to get a brand new Behr heater core for $140 shipped and after 2.5 hours of work, I feel like I saved between $600-$900. I did not replace the thermostat.

It wasn't the easiest thing I've done in my life, but I have never done ANY maintenance work on my car until now.

Here is the leaking that was happening when I turned the heat on (sorry environment). Fortunately its hot here most of the year.




First of all, I drained the coolant. I found the plastic screw at the bottom of the radiator. I bought a collection bin for the coolant which I am going to take to a local disposal facility.


After I removed the coolant cap, the coolant flowed out quickly. After the coolant was drained, I ran a bunch of distilled water through to flush the system.




After pulling the carpet back, there are panels on the driver and passenger sides which hide the heater core "sarcophagus"
Driver

Passenger


Here is the "sarcophagus". You can see where the fluids were draining out onto the carpet.




Wet carpet.

hope this is the right place to post this, I'm not posting a wanted ad but going to look at a car after work and wanted to know if this price sounds right. A lot of the cars out there in this age are going for around $2,400 - $3,000 with the following:

160K miles, third seat, good condition

what i don't get is the kelly blue book says that for a good condition car it should be $5,000 - is there something to be suspicious about or is it just the going rate of these cars?

I am getting 551 miles per 70 litres tank is this normal using Shell 91 octane i heard someone getting 700 per 70 liters is this true please owners of 98 t5 turbo volvos please tell me your average?

Looking for insight.

I recently purchased a 1998 Volvo S70 (real beauty...only 83k miles and flawless inside and out). After a few weeks I notice a slight sputtering while driving and it stalled on me a couple times. I ran a bottle of Lucas through the fuel system and that seems to have taken care of the sputtering for the most part...but a few days later the "Check Engine" light came on. It has alternated on and off over the last couple days and I have a bit of a rough idle. Someone suggested cleaning or replacing the Mass Airflow Sensor.

Thoughts? I plan on keeping and pampering this one...I even think the wife is getting jealous. Photos coming soon.

hello
first time posting on this forum !!
Have been enjoying our volvo for a bit of time now with regular maintenance it has been serving us very well.
although with age some problems have arrived one of them being the beautifully smell of coolant inside the car in the morning. A great DIY for the heater core on here :
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t22870-1998-vo...ment-w-pics.htm

anyway other then that my main concern for which i was not able to find a clear answer is the climate control issues that im having
its a v70 1998 with the 2.5 engine the control panel looks like this:


the blower seams to be working since its on all the time and the speed of it can be controlled but the position regulator is not functioning at all. Im assuming its controlling a sort of flap mechanism is it electric or mechanical? could the leaking heater core have anything to o with it? i was reading something about reading the code by some light blinking ? where is this light when do i read it?
thanks for any help

I have a 1998 Volvo V70 wagon and the drivers door hinge weld has broken. In order to repair I know the door must come off. What is the process of removing the door wire bundle? In another conversation it was noted that a repair can be made by drilling and putting in two nuts and bolts. It also said not weld since there are wires in the pillar behind the hinge. My question is, can it be welded if one is careful. My auto body person wants to put a new plate over the weld and weld it in place. Any thoughts ?

Anyone know the best (easiest) way to get to the auto trans gear indicator light bulb that is next to the gear shift knob? 2000 S70.

Just thought I'd ask before I start unscrewing who-knows-what and breaking tiny little pieces of plastic that cost $79 at the dealer (been there, broke that).

Thanks - Coldax

I have just changed the air pump, spark plugs, rotor and distributor on my 1998 non turbo v70. It now stumbles at partial throttle, even at highway speeds. I had the codes checked, there are none. I'm thinking there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Any thoughts

It all started when I was stuck in the mud one day and needed a friends Jeep to pull me out. I had to pull the car out backwards as it was the only way. In hind-sight I think I should of had the car in neutral while I pulled it out but instead I was in reverse. Once I pulled it out I turned the car off and unhooked it from the Jeep. When I went to start it back up to leave I noticed (for the first time ever) the Flashing arrow light on my dash and that my car was stuck in winterdrive. Winterdrive is that little button below the shifter that has the car start in 3rd gear so as not to spin the tires in slipery conditions. The next morning I started the car back up and still had the flashing arrow, but after 15 mins of driving it seemed to work it self out and I had my 1st and 2nd gears back again. I turned my car off and the arrow was gone.

3-4 days later when coming off the highway and waiting at the off-ramp light I notice the flashing arrow again. And once again my car wont shift into the 1st and 2nd gear only using the 3rd gear to start. Its been 2 days since it has comback on again and I dont think this problem is going to iron itself out like last time.

Has anyone had similar problems?? Is this just some electrical gremlin that isnt allowing the automatic transmission to get out of winter drive, or is it some mechanical switch that is stuck keeping it in winterdrive. Anyhelp is greatly apprieciated!!

Thanks

Hi All. My girlfriend has recently started a dogwalking business and on my recommendation she's bought a 1st generation V70. I think it's a '97 model.

Problem is she wants to put the alarm on when there is a dog in the car (just for a quick pop into a shop not long term!) The dogs set off the motion sensor and the alarm sounds.

I would have thought there was a way to fix this but when I phoned a dealer they said there wasn't.

Is there another solution? Can I just cover/detach a sensor?

Cheers

1996 850 with 101K miles. At various times, not always, I have to use the shift override button to shift out of park. It's more annoying than a problem at this point. What do I need to be looking in to to correct this.

Hello All, I'm a Mom of 4 kids, Just got a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD. I have been wanting a Volvo Since...tolongago. It has 102K Miles on it. Well taken care of. I joined the group becase there are just little things that I dont know or get about the car. So yah.

Before I get under the car in 40 degree weather (maine), is there something special I should know about the emergency brake system on my 98 v70xc wagon?
I pull the handle and get no brakes. The cable could be broken as far as I know, but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,

John G.

I am having suspension issues. I replaced the struts and mounts along with the tie rods 18 months and 40K miles ago. I am now hearing a rattle/squeek when going slowly over bumps. If I go over a small bump slowly at an angle, you hear it in both the left and right wheel areas.
Any thoughts on what this could be?

I searched and found a few threads that described my problem, but none that answered it. I have a clunk in my right front end. Here are the specifics:

*Does NOT happen when turning
*Only happens over abrupt bumps/ruts
*It's a very loud sound, like knocking on a door

I've pretty much overhauled the front suspension with the exception of the struts themselves. I've replaced both control arms with bushings and ball joints, tie rods are good, strut bushings and strut mount plates are all brand new, sway bar and links are good, everything is tight underneath the front of the car.

I'm at a loss. Any other ideas? TIA!

V70 2000 140hp 20 valve non turbo 123,000 miles
I have been burning oil, visible especially after cruising down hill then accelerating normally away, great cloud of blue smoke.
Started the strip down to bottom the problem but can not get all the head bolts out, clearly they have been fitted over tight or the head has swelled!
I have thrashed them with a 7lb hammer, vibrated them with a electric percussive chisel, but still no joy, i have brocken three Facom sockets by using a tube on the socket handle and have rounded the heads of the bolts.
Any suggestions.
Did find the oil scavenger system under the inlet manifold.
Other faults on car
1 Changed the electronic accelerator at 87,000 miles ( 1000 euro)
2 Cat is faulty after / before this (1000 euro)
3 Air con blows hot ?? euro Have found a sensor in plastic grill by radiator hanging down.

The car has 140k and is a 1998 S70 turbo.

This problem has been going on for about 4 weeks now. The car starts and runs fine but every now and then it idles rough then stalls when coming to a stop light, stop sign or idling in traffic. I can feel a little surging just before it dies. The car starts up after about 2-3 attempt and runs fine again. This happens about 4 times a week lately. My mech. is stumped on this. I have done and checked the following:

* replaced the fuel pump & relay
* Fuel filter
* checked vacuum hoses
* checked that idle air valve

Any help would be great on this.

Thx

This morning i took my 99 V70 into the local volvo mechanic for an oil change. While up, they noticed a loost ball joing in the right front - which is all part of the control arm assembly. Sounds like this needs to be replaced. Quote was $250 and they'll do a great job... looks like the part is around $100 ish. I'm looking to see if anyone has done this themselves - it looks pretty straightforward, but some personal experience would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

SORRY! WRONG FORUM.

Hi. Volvo newb. First post. Yes, I searched

1999 Volvo S70T

So...a weird noise started coming from the engine bay area on acceleration. Also noticed that when I kill the engine there is a shudder (not sure if this is normal?). Anyway, my wife was driving when the noise appeared and she took it straight to a Volvo specialist who initially thought perhaps the water pump was the problem. On closer inspection he thinks the water pump is fine and that it is the flywheel causing the problem.

He said that the flywheel has a 'shock absorbtion' ring or some type of centre which he thinks is slipping and causing the noise. Luckily it's only just over $2,000 for a replacement (!).

Anyone familiar with this problem?

I don't want to leave it for too long, but the replacement cost is more than I have paid for very nice aftermarket lightweight flywheels for other cars. Anyone know of aftermarket flywheels that suit the car?

Thanks.

Is there anybody out there who has advice on my post below. I would like some insight before my local Volvo shop lays it to me!
Is oil collecting on top of the head near the plugs most likely a PCV issue or bad rings causing blow by? Anybody out there run in to this and have it caused by other than the PCV system?
How much would a garage most likely charge to replace the system, to include the hoses?
Also, anybody here have a lot of issues with suspension on the S70, such as eating struts and strut mounts. I had mine replaced about 15 months back and am already hearing the rattle/squeek when going over bumps.