1G (1998-2000) S70, V70 & V70XC Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part # for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

I made this tool at work to check for intake leaks and leaks in the vent system.
Some people will by Fog machines in shops that will do almost the same thing.
This is only a picture of the tool and a small idea of how to use it.
This can only be used with a air compressor.

So I got the round plastic cap looking thing from a New fresh air hose that was purchased from the Dealer for a Customer.

Then I got a pressure regulator with a gauge on it.
Also got some couplers that matched the air lines at work.
I installed the couplers on the regulator first. one female and one male so it can be installed inline with the hose.
I than took the plastic cap and drilled a hole in it. I drilled it small enough that the coupler could be screwed into it.Then took a female coupler that had female threads in it rather than male threads and screwed it on the male part of the threads on the cap.

Then when you need to check for an intake leak or boost leak you can remove the induction hose from the massflow and slide the cap into the hose and clamp it in there.
Then remove the oil cap.(I loosen the cap and stick a rag between the cap and motor to prevent splattering oil when the cap vibrates)
Then plug in the hose to the regulator setup.(Make sure the regulator is turned all the way down so no air comes out. Then turn the regulator up to about 3 PSI 4 max.
Then listen for leaks. If you can't hear anything leaking get a bottle of soapy water and spray all connections looking for bubbles.

Fix leaks as needed.

Here is the pics of the tool.

I have a 2003 V70 with about 140,000 miles on it. I have owned it 3 years now- I bought it from a family friend and understood the whole history of it.

Recently while driving I noticed that a weird noise would be coming from the engine, especially when I turned right. The worst happened and my engine died on me. As I was turning the car shut down- I put it into park and tried restarting it only to have the engine shake and shut down again. It would not remain on and I would not get it to move.

So- I had it towed and looked at by a large Ford dealership that said they would look my Volvo (I recently moved and the closest Volvo dealership is about 3 hours away) . The diagnostics suggested it was the Fuel Pump Sensor- I had it fixed and they claimed it was fine. I understand that was a recall piece. I went to pick it up and it stalled right in the parking lot! They evaluated it more and said it was the fuel pump. They replaced it but said they were unable to get it running. 16 days later they came to the conclusion that it was the throttle body and that it needed cleaning. They said it was running fine. I went to go pick it up and after I put the keys in the ignition and turned within 5 seconds the front of the car shook and it shut down on me. They called me today and said it was running fine again.

Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I have invested a lot of money into these new parts and it does not seem to solve the problem. I have not had any issues prior and was good with regular maintenance. It is strange that it will run for a few seconds, then shake and die down. I really love this car and I do not want to let it go! I am also worried that if I bring it back home it might randomly stall on me.

I have a customers car that had powersteering noise when it heated up.
I checked the fluid first and it was good, then I had it flushed with the proper fluid for the volvos. It seemed to help for a month or so. Then the noise came back. I ordered a used pump and the noise went away. a month later it came back, so i tried another pump that I had at my shop that was leaking, but i wanted to see if the noise would go away. It did not.

I have not seen this issue before on these cars. whenever i hear the whinning noise and the fluid is full, a flush always takes car of the noise.

I suspect maybe blockage in the rack, but i dont want to change a rack on a hunch.

Right now we own a Suburban. While I like the space and power, the mileage is killing me. I'm considering the Volvo V70 because I've loved these cars for a long time. I would go newer, but I've heard a LOT of horror stories about the next model years.

I'm considering a 98-99 V70 wagon. I'm looking for a manual trans, T5 engine. If or when I find one, I'd like to also do some upgrades to squeeze some more ponies out of the engine. I'm sure the car would work fine for the family, except for towing the camper. We have a newer 17' Jayco JayFeather hybrid camper http://www.generalrv.com/inventory/165497/...Lite--X17Z.aspx. It weighs about 3200lbs empty. I was just curious if anyone would attempt this? We probably tow it about 3-4 times/year. I also have a speed boat that weights about 2800lbs.

Here's my thought process so far... My Suburban is 285hp w/ 325ft lbs of torque; the V70 (stock) is 250hp w/ 240ft lbs torque. The Suburban itself weighs 5500lbs, the V70 weighs 3800lbs. I'm guessing as far as power/weight the two are fairly similar, a tad more for the Suburban.

Before I bought the Suburban, I did pull my boat w/ a Nissan Pathfinder and that did great, I could actually pull it at around 75mph no prob; the V70 is more powerful than the Pathfinder was.

What do you guys think, am I nuts for considering this? I don't need to set land speed records while towing, I just don't want to buy the car and destroy it by working it way too hard. I'm sure I would need to add some form of adjustable air shocks to rear (is this even possible?) to keep the butt of the wagon from dragging. The camper does have electric brakes. Just looking for some input! Thanks!!

I have a customers car that had powersteering noise when it heated up.
I checked the fluid first and it was good, then I had it flushed with the proper fluid for the volvos. It seemed to help for a month or so. Then the noise came back. I ordered a used pump and the noise went away. a month later it came back, so i tried another pump that I had at my shop that was leaking, but i wanted to see if the noise would go away. It did not.

I have not seen this issue before on these cars. whenever i hear the whinning noise and the fluid is full, a flush always takes car of the noise.

I suspect maybe blockage in the rack, but i dont want to change a rack on a hunch.

I bought a used 1999 S70 Turbo AWD with 116k currently. A few days ago, the engine ignition key suddenly became hard to turn from position I into position II and beyond. With some force, I could start the engine. But a few times, after the engine started, there was no radio, no wiper, no turn signal, no instrument panel lights. I saw the radio power light flashing a little before going off. In that state, when I switched gear from D to R or P, I got a horrible squelching noise from under the hood as if a belt was slipping. It used to happen once, and at the next start, it would work. This morning, it took me 6 tries (shut off engine, took key out, restart) to finally get the car in normal mode.

I have the feeling the problem seems to be related to the lock cylinder, or something in that area.

BTW, I am not sure if this is related: Occasionally the engine would stall a few seconds after starting. I "repaired" the Relay 103 by replacing the capacitors in it, which did not help. Then I cleaned the MAF sensor. After that, it happened once only.

Any suggestions and advises would be greatly appreciated!

These Magneti Marelli ETM's are replaceable with optical solutions
from XemodeX and ACTronics ETMs's,
there is also a guy in Sweden doing this job, called ATech2

Google it!;)

Replacement descriptions are attached as jpeg.

These angle drives cost a lot of money to replace, but you shuld first take it out and take it apart. Ours failed on our 1999 Volvo S70 and it was not the gears or the sleeve. The crown gear is pressed on the shaft and it was wore allowing the crown gear to turn freely on the shaft. So, we welded the gear to the shaft and it works now.

I have a 1997 S70 2.5 Sedan that has a alarm system immobiliser fault. The problem is the remote locks the doors but after the first unlock the back doors unlock but then on the second unlock the doors don't unlock. Major issue is the alarm system does not arm & the immobiliser does at times seem to stop the car from starting. Any ideas anyone? I am looking for the make of the alarm immobiliser system installed in the Australian car & also looking for wiring diagrams & anything at all that will help me fault find the problem. Also if anyone can tell me what test equipment do I need to fault find this system I am from the electrical trades so I have some knowledge of how to do this but details as small or large as they are welcome.

Recently (4 days) purchased a used 2000 V70 XC. Interior in tip-top shape, and in fact the cleanest used car I have ever seen. Engine in very good condition, especially given mileage on it (155K). It was given a clean bill of health by 2 inspections prior to purchase.

Put in about 10 gallons of gas the day I bought it, and it ran fine for about 150 miles. Then, all of a sudden the CHECK ENGINE light comes on while I'm driving it. Everything looks good - the rpm's, temp, etc - and drives fine also. I get somewhere to check it & they tell me it's one of the oxygen sensors.

I also checked to make sure it's not something stupid (gas cap, etc). When I ruled that out, they asked what octane level I used in it.

When I bought it, I stopped at the closest station (a Sheetz station), and put in 87 octane gas - the same type I put in everything I own. The place I had the sensor reading checked suggested putting some octane booster until I was able to run out the 87 in the tank & then try a higher level (89 or 93 octane). They reset it, and I did add the booster and it hasn't come back on, but it's only been driven a few miles.

I'm new to Volvos, but have owned VW's (87 Jetta) and Toyotas (93 Corolla) for over 20 years. A friend who owned Volvos (he drives an 84 sedan) hasn't had issues with gas octane levels.

• Are Volvos, or V70's in particular - this sensitive to octane levels?
• Is this an issue that's more connected to the ethanol that they put into everything now, and is there any remedy to it?
• Or, is this just something I'm going to have to bite the bullet on & replace the O2 sensor on a car I've had less than a week?

ERROR CODE IS P1332 - CVVT Solenoid

Called the local stealership and they said they have no idea what that code is, let alone what a cvvt solenoid is....I need to bring it to them to check out the car....

They did ask for my vin at which point they said they would get back to me....2 weeks ago....


Help me out. Just bought a used certified and safetied vovlo v70. Driving down the road and suddenly the check engine light comes on.....
I do not have a reader, but apparently it is something i should be investing in....
Any ideas what may cause it, or better yet, how do i reset it and ease the mind of my wife.....

I had my check engine light come on, and after a bunch of online research, i picked up a code reader. It said the fault code was the cvvt solenoid. I plan on locating one this coming week and replacing it, i would presume at the dealer....
Am i getting into trouble by not replacing it immediately?? Does this have anything to do with the timing belt and since it is loated in the general area, with the cover off, should i replace the timing belt as well??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone come across a tutorial on how to remove the oil sump (pan) on the 1999 v70? I have looked all over. Maybe a link to the official repair manual or a good picture tutorial? I am not an expert in any way so thats really why I need pictures if I am going to get anywhere.

Hi. Just picked up a 2000 XC70 and was wondering if anyone could enlighten me to any real problematic issues they have experienced besides the radio code thing! What a drag. I have a factory refurb radio in this one, so vin codes dont work....once I get them...i will permanent marker it on the radio.

Factory refurb serial number is V08170 V3049264........ANYONE KNOW THE CODE???

BTW....year 2000 V70 XC ....SC-816 radio code is 3653.

My V70 started leaking oil, small puddle every day in the front. I had it looked at yesterday and am attaching the quote. I really wanted to see if anyone could just tell me if this looks like a fair quote. I looked the prices up on partsgeek.com and it looks like they're priced much cheaper online but with shipping, i'd really only be saving like $10 or something.
I guess I'm wondering about the labor and whether it's honest and fair.
There are so many quirks and issues with my car right now. Like the engine fan stays on after I shut the car down, my ABS light lights up randomly and a lot (I do have the ABS module and am hoping I can replace it myself, with the help of youtube), my driver side door doesnt open from the inside OR outside...honestly, those things I can live with until I can come up with the extra $$ to fix them.
I know it's a 13 year old car and i'm going to have to give her some extra TLC and I love her so much ... i just dont know about this $600+ quote. And I seriously am wondering if these mechanics take advantage of women and people who are mechanically ignorant (which I'm sure they do). But if it's fair, it's fair. I'm getting a second opinion today so.
Any help or advice is appreciated

I'm new to this forum but not new to Volvos. I need some help I just bought a '98 s70 with 139k in showroom condition. The AT gear selection indicator bulb in the center console is burned out. I want to know how to get inside the center console to replace it. Any instructions, photos, advice or links would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Eric

I'm trying to figure out if there's anyway possible we can fix this ourselves or ?? I read something somewhere about an easy fix (which is what I'm looking for until I can actually pay for having the parts replaced).
Door doesn't open. Door panel is off. I'm attaching pictures of what I'm working with. Do I need a new part or is there a cheap and easy fix for this. I just need something good enough for now.

thanks!

Hey guys,

Volvo noob here. Usual BMW guy, I recently have been looking at purchasing an 850 or V70 (98s). I found an V70XC locally that has relatively low miles and is fairly cheap and negotiable but I have a few questions about it. First: here's the link to the ad from the dealer 98 V70XC

Here's a list of things I noticed while driving it:

• Sounds like a truck from the inside, especially at idle, seriously...are these things usually really loud?
  Here's a few links of me driving it. Might wanna turn volume up.
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3OWwPD2fKs
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iOr3XV624g
• Need a new heater core (coolant smell when heat turned on)
• All tires are matching
• I think it has a tensioner making noise? but it sounds different than any other tensioner I have heard going bad.
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGr2OM-Hymw&noredirect=1
• The alignment was REALLY off and the brakes seemed to be warped.
• Transmission seemed to be smooth without any harsh shifts or hiccups, fluid also didn't smell too burnt either.
• Needs a front suspension refresh
• ABS and TRACS lights were on. Dealer said they were on when the PO traded it in, said that it just needs a speed sensor (are they linked together?)
• Big question, this being an AWD...if it starts making noises (doesn't seem to now) and I would like to disable the AWD could I theoretically pull the DS permanently (or until getting a new now) with no side effects?

I know most people saw to avoid the AWD models but finding a FWD is few and far between in my area. I also like the look of the XCs more, especially if the AWD can be disable if it takes a dump. It looks like the guy has been sitting on it for almost a year, I'm just worried that even if I get it for a steal it's too far gone to revive. Lay all thought on me

Thanks guys!

i loose my key and keyless remote control of my v70 98 i wish to know if i can buy that ones on ebay because them say that i have to reprogramig the remote and i don't know how? please help me to save money because these are very expensive

Hi Everyone.
I am new to the forum and I will say outright I didn't do a search for these issues so please go easy (i did scan three pages back and didnt find relevant information).
I have a few major issues including (but not limited to) what the mechanics I have taken my car to say is a near total failure of the central electronics board. My ABS, Tracks, and SRS lights are all on, all the time. I have major clicking and rubbing noises coming from behind the dash (noted a heater core replacement post) and the majority of the switches are non functional. Heating and AC aside, what could be the part that my mechanics are talking about? and where can I buy it? parts and labor are about double the price as in America so I would like to buy it and have it shipped. ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED.

I drive a 1998 V70 2.5T AT

P.S. the switch behind the shifter (S/E/W) dont make any noticeable difference.

My 98 V70 Non Turbo w/ close to 150K miles stalled on me out of the blue one day. I was unable to re-start it for more than a few seconds, and if It did, it stalled out again even once I got it into drive. I disconnected the Mass Airflow Sensor and the car started and ran fine. I got a new sensor and the car runs, but often it idles rough and stalls but it always has start/idle issues as long as the sensor is connected, but it will run fine as long as I get it past the idle and into drive (although it seems to have a slight hesitation when I step on the gas). This is an improvement over NOT running at ALL but I'd like to get it back into tip-top shape again.

I did the following: CLEANED INTAKE (as well as the air filter box and all hoses connecting), CHANGED SPARK PLUGS (they indicated that the car was running rich), NEW ROTOR, CLEANED CONNECTOR TO THE MASS AIR SENSOR w/ Q-TIP, and put in a bottle of LUCAS FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER, Checked all lines for vac leak, and disconnected fuel line to make sure gas was flowing freely to the engine (it was).

Any suggestions as to where I need to go next? I remember I had an 850 and at about 170k miles it needed a new fuel pump, but it seems the gas it pumping OK and the fact that it runs OK w/ the Mass Air Sensor disconnected is puzzling. Could it be a relay? Something simple that I am not thinking about?

Lastly, I had an issue w/ the intake about 6 months ago, the car went into "limp mode" and ran fine after I cleaned the intake (the hose going to the intake had major holes in it, i since got new hoses from the airbox to the intake). Just wanted to include ALL info about the car possible so I don't waste anymore time/money getting this beauty to run right again! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My 1998 V70 Base model, started with a rattle in the Catalytic Convertor, then started a random miss. Now under load it misses and stutters. It is throwing the P0304 code for #4 cylinder miss fire. I pulled the plugs cleaned them, cleaned the cap and rotor. Looked for vacuum leaks. Moved spark plugs around. It is still doing the same thing. Idles good, but under load it misses and stutters. While running I pulled plug wires to make sure #4 cylinder is firing. Every plug wire I pulled made a difference in the RPMs. No obvious problems when I looked at the spark plugs. I have ordered a tune up kit from FCP. Can a clogged or partially clogged Catalytic convertor cause these symptom? I had thought I would get another OBD code, but all I get is p0304. It does sound like the cat has gotten worse. You can hear it rattle when you start and turn of the engine. So, I just replaced the Catalytic Convertor. Car was running good for about 15 minutes, and then started acting up again. It starts running rough and the Check Engine light started flashing. When I got it home, I checked the OBD and got code P0304 again. I am still awaiting the tune up kit, but I am hoping someone may of seen this problem and could give me some advice.

Hi, i have a 1999 volvo v70 2.0L estate, which has has now produced a starting problem...when i turn the key, the engine turns over, it wants to start, seems to start, but then dies, it can take quite a few times to get it to start and sometimes starts straight away, but when it is running, it runs fine. Could it be a fuel problem or electrical? I have tried to research on the net, but sounds like it could be a number of things Fuel pump, ignition coil, fuel pressure regulator etc...i dont think its distributer cap or rotor arm as i presume it would stall if it wasnt getting a spark during driving...any ideas please as i am rather confused, many thanks, Nicholas.

I own two vehicles. One a 1999 Volvo V70 XC and a 2000 S70 AWD. These cars are practically the same exact car, except one is a wagon and one a sedan. Anyways, my problem is kinda strange and probably an easy fix. I just replaced my expansion tank on the V70 with a genuine volvo reservoir because of a crack in the original tank. After reassembling everything the way it was, the low coolant light is now on even though the tank is filled. I noticed the expansion tank had a small weight that goes up and down to sense whether the tank is full or empty, and that is in the proper position (up = good, down = low). The sensor is plugged in correctly. The strange thing is that I wanted to test the sensor to make sure it didn't go bad on me all of a sudden, so I removed the sensor from my Volvo S70 (other vehicle, but the exact same) and installed it in my Volvo V70 to test, and I had the same problem. After moving the sensor back to my S70 (the one working initially), I had the exact same problem as the V70 where the low coolant light will not turn off. So now the exact same problem is happening to both vehicles because the sensor was removed and reintalled. Is there some strange reset that needs to be done to get this light to turn off? Thanks in advance for all your help.

Metallic blue Volvo V70 2.5T for sale. Recently had major service and replacement of CV joints, throttle body, drive-belt etc totalling $3700.
Beige leather interior. Auto transmission. Darkest legal premium window tint. Located in Brisbane.

Email me at Jordansquire@live.com for pictures or questions.

Cheers

Hi All,
My dad has been a Volvo fan for some 30 years now (3 x 24Xs over the years and currently a V70 Cross Country, 2001 model) and has now talked me into getting a Volvo! So I've just recently purchased a 1997 V70, which I intend to mainly service myself and keep as long as I can. As far as I can tell its in pretty good shape overall. Engine seems solid, and it runs well and has 224,000 klms on the clock. Fuel consumption is around 10L/100klm, which doesn't seem too bad for the mix of city/highway driving I do (although I think I can do better). I do have two issues I have to sort out though. It sounds like the front hubs are going, and the aircon is intermittent.

I'm skilled enough and have the tools to replace the hubs, but want to make sure I get the right parts. Now I know that the V70 was a follow on from the 850 and so shares many similarities. My model is definitely a 1997, but the forum only has listed the 1 gen V70 as 1998 to 2000, and when I have been searching for parts, quite often there is no 1997 option for the V70. From my searching, it seems the V70 started half way through 1997 and took over from the 850, initially with just some cosmetic changes. Does this mean I can search for 1997 850 parts instead? Or the 1997 V70 we got in Australia is just a 850 rebadged (that doesn't really make sense though). Or worse will I be looking for a mix of 850 or 1998 V70 parts, depending on what it is. I should also note I have been looking for parts overseas (it doesn't necessarily bother me that I have to wait a week or two for parts, if I can get them at a good price).

Also I have noticed there can be a big difference in part prices from different manufacturers, should I avoid certain brands?

Lastly, any tips on fault finding with the aircon? My issue is that it works fine, even gets nice and chilly in 30+ heat outside, but if its stop start traffic, it seems to overheat (can hear a really high pitched squeal) and then no more cooling. If I let it cool for 10 mins or so, I get cold air again.

Any help would be appreciated,

regards

First, thanks for taking the time to read and advise.

My Father fell victim to a scammer and he bought a car that, believe it or not, does not run, or at least run well. How and why is another story, but later diagnosed at the local dealer and learned that the block is cracked.

Here is my question:

We are faced with replacing the motor entirely and want to know if it is a good move based on the experience of the forum in regards to the longevity of the other parts of the car like tranny, suspension ect. (I have never owned a Volvo)

Facts:

2000 Volvo S70 GLT SE
2.4 liter turbo
118,000 miles

engine cost 1400
Install price 800

Would you do it, or walk away...thoughts, experiences, and comments from you guys will help shape our decision.

Thanks you so much for your time and consideration.

matt

Every time I drive the car, the ETS light is on and it gets hot fast. When I turn off the car, I can't turn it back on when it's hot. But then I wait for it to cool down and then he turns on again. What can I do about this?

Hello fellow volvo drivers. I purchased a volvo s70 t5 about 2 years ago. I've kept it serviced and running primo... but there are a few questions I have about it...
1. Why is it that when I try to look up parts and other stuff for it for the model, make and year of my car it only comes up with a 1998 s70 t5 when my rego says its a 1997 s70?

2. I have a leak coming out of "what a mechanic told me" was the brake sensor that comes off the brake master cylinder. He also told me its a common thing for that make. My question is, if its so common why do I need to import the part from overseas? Am ii not looking in the right places here in new zealand?

Can anyone in new zealand help me out with a reliable cost effective source for volvo parts pleease..

Btw I love the car, and I sure as hell don't want to part with it but I'm wondering if I made a huge mistake buying one.

Any help would be very much appreciated

I hope this isn't a stupid question, its probably an easy fix I just can't figure it out. I just bought a set of fog lights, and I seem to be having trouble plugging them in. The adapter doesn't seem to fit the fog light assembly, and I've been looking for a company that sells the wiring assembly for the fog lights but can't find anything. In the mean time I will be trying to figure out what to do. Let me know thanks

My ets light has been on and I shut it off every once in a while. I know it needs to be replaced but I am going to run it until it just stops working. The cars runs 100%. My question is my ce light went on and I got an error from a pre cat o2 sensor. Is it realy bad or is the etc causing this fault. I have reset it several times and it comes back as the o2 pre cat o2 sensor. I just don't feel like spending another $250 if I can help it.
Thanks

Hi Volvo people. My brother just purchased a 2000 Volvo V70 and it has a misfire on cylinder 2. The indy shop said it was coil pack related and wants to replace all 5 coil packs plus plugs. I own a 05 Audi A4 and have changed coil packs and plugs myself numerous times so i know how easy the install can be and how much coil packs can be a pain in the ****. My question is do most Volvo guys run only OEM coil packs or is non oem ok? The stealership quoted $96 a coil vs. $30 online. If non-oem is ok i can throw these in with new plugs for him and save a few hundred bucks but coming from the Audi side i know nothing about Volvo. Thanks!

Hello!

My S70 is in need of a new clutch, its a 1998 2L petrol. I was wondering if anybody knows what the best way of droping the gearbox from the car? I know there is a subframe which must be dealt with in the process, must I remove the subframe completely and hold the engine from above? ir can the engine be supported from below during the process? Is it possible to remove the gearbox with while just leaving the subframe go on one side? or is the better to drop the subframe,engine and gearbox all together as one unit? If anyone has a detailed description of the procedure involved it would be great! My car does not have a duel mass flywheeel by the way. Thanks to anyone who can offer any help! much appreciated!

Hi,

I went to change the fuel filter on my wife's 2004 V70 and it wasn't where the Haynes manual had it pictured. In fact I can't find it ANYWHERE! Reasearching it a bit, it seems that some V70s have the fuel filter in the tank, but there was some allusion to a third location in the trunk/hatch area after removing some covers that are bolted down.

Does anybody have any experience with this model, or know how I can find out for sure where the fuel filter is located?

thanks

I have a 2000 S70 with 234,000 miles. Lately the car has been stuttering at about 65 miles an hour. Took it to a mechanic and they could not find anything wrong. They checked the throttle body and a couple of little things. Now the car is stuttering from a start and while turning at low speeds. Anyone know what to check or look at. I am leaning towards a tranny issue, but not sure if I am going in the right direction.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I just pulled the head off my 98 V70. My timing belt jumped and bent all 10 intake valves. My engine is a B5254S. What other Volvo's carry this same engine. There are a few at my local Pull A Parts and looking to go that route. I would love to get the head rebuilt to band new but in the real world over here that is not possible.LOW FUNDS. Just need to get the car back to running. Any advice would be appriciated. Thanks, Jeff

more noises from the dash than jiffy pop. sometimes no heat from lower vents. Is this a nasty fix?
thanks,
Bob

hi all,
My 98 s70glt has developed suspension squeaks, sort of rattly squeaks, mostly when cold. Started on the right side, now is also present on the left to a lesser degree. I had it looked at and they could not identify it, other than to say it was not a safety issue. It seemed that when I sprayed lube on the right shock tower, it went away for a little while. So I replaced the front struts, to no avail. [also replaced the rear shocks] I noticed that the motor mount on the engine side of the dog bone was shot, so I replaced that, also to no avail. Car rides fine, steers straight, no shakes.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bob

I'm interested in buying a 1998 S70 (non turbo). I understand that regular timing belt replacements are key to these cars. I would like to perform this myself, change belt and perform a oil change. What is the best write-up on the timing belt replacement for the S70. I didn't see a Youtube video on this particular model. Any suggestions for the best information out there to DIY, either print, web or video. Secondly, what brand timing belt kits do you recommend me to buy? How long would it take for an average DIY to complete this task? Any suggestions on engine oil conventional or synthetic and oil grade and filter. I live in Michigan and winter will soon be here. Thank you for your support.

***Sorry !!! I posted in S80 section should have been in S70 section***

Greetings. Looking for a tech or experienced DIY'er response from somebody who knows and is not guessing. The issue is on a 98 Volvo S70 with automatic climate control. The climate control fan, or, blower motor, blows constantly with no change regardless of manual or automatic settings and regardless of temperature settings. It will blow cold or hot, depending on where you have it set, but it will not turn off if the key is on. Now, I realize the resistor packs are a common failure on all volvo's with automatic climate controls, however, the control head has been replaced, to no effect, but if you unplug the ambient temperature sensor located near the resistor pack on the passenger side behind the glovebox, you can operate in manual climate control mode. I don't know if this indicates a bad sensor, or if this is just a standard result of that sensor being unplugged. I'd like to have some input on the likelihood of the sensor being bad, or, if it is a higher likelihood that it's a bad resistor pack and the reversion to manual mode from unplugging the outside temp sensor is just coincidental. Is there a spec for testing this sensor as I've looked all through my alldata and can't find much in the way of climate control diagnostic troubleshooting specifications. Thanks for the help in advance.

Hi all,

I am looking for a used winter tire package for my 1999 V70 GLT on Kijij. Have been doing some research for the past few days and I'm still not sure what is the correct spec for rim/wheel/tire?

Winter tire size: 195/60/R15 or 195/65/R15?
Bolt Pattern: 5x108 mm
Offset: 34-45 mm ?
Center Bore: ?
Backspacing: ?

Also, I was told that hub-centric are better than lug-centric, but most of the aftermarket rims are lug-centric because they are built to fit wheel hubs of various sizes. So, do I need to buy an extra ring (or adapter) for lug-centric rims?

Thanks in advance!

Phil

I went to see a 1998 Volvo S70 tonight. The seller is a representing the car for the woman owner.

The good - 1998 S70 Silver/Black leather and no sunroof, with auto and heated seats. Exactly the combo I was hoping to find.

The bad - The seller told me the car had been sitting for a month. When I started it up blue smoke came out of the tail pipe.


I was told by seller:

1. Checked using hand scanner Numerous codes causing check engine light and rough to almost a skip idle - o2’s are new so you’re looking at –MAF/CAT/IAC/ even injectors ???? more diagnostics required
2. Tires are awful
3. Interior not bad – leather heated seats
4. Dings and dents
5. Ac – compressor runs but not real cold (cool which is promising it might just need a recharge?)
6. Dent in door – scratches not a show piece

I took it for a short test drive and it shifts fine, goes into reverse and back to forward gears fine, all electrics work, CHECK ENGINE light on. Could / would a bad MAF and clogged Cat cause some of these problems? It started up but settled to a lumpy idle, the car did stall on my short test drive and eventually started up again, it almost seemed like it was flooding out?

Car has 145k miles and would be a winter/airport/kid's car beater. I do not care about cosemtics, I just need this to be a semi-reliable and safe car for my family to call to duty when it is needed.

Asking price was $850. I offered $550. and they accepted. I told the seller I wanted to post on this site and hear feedback of others before I "seal the deal" tomorrow.

Please help! ANy and all advice welcomed and appreciated!

Andrew Conti

andrewcconti

Posts: 1
Joined: 9 minutes ago
Location: Attleboro, MA
Model, Year: S70 1998

hi i have a 2000 v70r awd i bought it without the driveshaft so its only fwd ...new shaft is $1800 from the dealer i found a used one that is out of a 1998 v70 cross country for $120 can any one tell me if the 2 are interchangeble....
thanks

hi i have a 2000 v70r awd i bought it without the driveshaft so its only fwd ...new shaft is $1800 from the dealer i found a used one that is out of a 1998 v70 cross country for $120 can any one tell me if the 2 are interchangeble....
thanks

Hello all! This is my first post on this forum. I have read/posted on other forums, but they are having problems, so I was decided to come here.

I finally got around to replacing my busted heater core today. Symptoms I had were a "sweet" smell when I turned the heat on, damp carpet on both the driver and passenger side floors, film on the windshield and finally the check coolant light started coming on.. My Volvo is a standard 1998 V70.

I initially called the local dealership and a local import repair shop and was quoted $700+ and $1000+. I unfortunately don't have that kind of money floating around, so I searched online.

I managed to get a brand new Behr heater core for $140 shipped and after 2.5 hours of work, I feel like I saved between $600-$900. I did not replace the thermostat.

It wasn't the easiest thing I've done in my life, but I have never done ANY maintenance work on my car until now.

Here is the leaking that was happening when I turned the heat on (sorry environment). Fortunately its hot here most of the year.




First of all, I drained the coolant. I found the plastic screw at the bottom of the radiator. I bought a collection bin for the coolant which I am going to take to a local disposal facility.


After I removed the coolant cap, the coolant flowed out quickly. After the coolant was drained, I ran a bunch of distilled water through to flush the system.




After pulling the carpet back, there are panels on the driver and passenger sides which hide the heater core "sarcophagus"
Driver

Passenger


Here is the "sarcophagus". You can see where the fluids were draining out onto the carpet.




Wet carpet.

Hey guys... looking to get some help on this... 1999 S70

It started more random but now it does it all the time... as soon as you turn the car on, you can hear the hazard/turn signal relay clicking over, and over, constantly... at about twice the speed of the regular turn signal delay.... like a hyper-blink speed for a blown bulb... but all the bulbs are ok, turn signals work fine, it clicks properly, blinkers on dash look fine when using the signals.... hazard work fine when button is pressed... but when neither is in use, it click constantly...


Any idea about what would make this happen?? At a loss

spam

I have a 99 V70 with only 71,000 miles.

The transmission will run fine, shift fine, then slip a little for a minute then completely quite, usually after about 5 miles.. I can turn the car off for a minute and restart and it will go but not for very long and the tranny kicks out again.

The fluid has been changed and the filter cleaned.. The car does not throw a codes, I replace the TCU and it did not change anyting.

Any ideas??