1G (1998-2000) S70, V70 & V70XC Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part # for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

I made this tool at work to check for intake leaks and leaks in the vent system.
Some people will by Fog machines in shops that will do almost the same thing.
This is only a picture of the tool and a small idea of how to use it.
This can only be used with a air compressor.

So I got the round plastic cap looking thing from a New fresh air hose that was purchased from the Dealer for a Customer.

Then I got a pressure regulator with a gauge on it.
Also got some couplers that matched the air lines at work.
I installed the couplers on the regulator first. one female and one male so it can be installed inline with the hose.
I than took the plastic cap and drilled a hole in it. I drilled it small enough that the coupler could be screwed into it.Then took a female coupler that had female threads in it rather than male threads and screwed it on the male part of the threads on the cap.

Then when you need to check for an intake leak or boost leak you can remove the induction hose from the massflow and slide the cap into the hose and clamp it in there.
Then remove the oil cap.(I loosen the cap and stick a rag between the cap and motor to prevent splattering oil when the cap vibrates)
Then plug in the hose to the regulator setup.(Make sure the regulator is turned all the way down so no air comes out. Then turn the regulator up to about 3 PSI 4 max.
Then listen for leaks. If you can't hear anything leaking get a bottle of soapy water and spray all connections looking for bubbles.

Fix leaks as needed.

Here is the pics of the tool.

I just bought my first volvo yesterday (actually I traded it for my land rover). I haven't even had time to register it and the engine light came on. Lacking a code reader, I had the codes read at Autozone and they came up with two:

P0013
P1332

I am not sure of the validity of the second code; perhaps it got written down wrong.

But of the first, I am not sure what this means: Camshaft Position Actuator B - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction. I was told it might be the camshaft position sensor. Is this correct?

If so, where is it located and how complicated of a task is it to change it out? Does anyone recommend a place where I could order the part?

Thanks...

Yes these lights appear and I was wandering if it was bad modules or uneven tires, what do you think! Thanks!

The ABS and Tracs lights started coming on in my '98 S70 GLT, at first intermittently, and then all the time. After reading various posts here, I decided I needed to replace the ABS control unit, so I ordered one (rebuilt, of course), and replaced it. Pretty simple job, really.

After replacing it, the lights were out at first, which is not surprising since I had disconnected the battery and it wouldn't remember the previous state. After a few miles of driving, during which time I presume it did a self-test, the lights came on again. Argh!

This was a few weeks ago, and I've been thinking about what to do next. But, over the last week the lights have started to go out for increasing periods of time. One day they went out as I was driving locally and stayed off for several miles, but came on again. Two days ago, they went out after driving a few miles and stayed off for a good 20 miles of driving, but then came back on. Last night, they went out while I was driving, and stayed out when I parked at home. This morning, however, the instant I turned on the engine, and all the dashboard lights came on to show the lights were working, the ABS and Tracs lights stayed on.

Obviously, since the car hadn't moved and the engine hadn't been running for more than a few seconds, it couldn't have done a self-test. Right? So, does this mean the problem is a purely electrical one, not mechanical? And if it's purely electrical, does that mean the replacement control unit was defective? Or could it be a wheel sensor? Does it do a self-test the moment the engine starts?

Could this be affected by the gradual rise in temperature in recent weeks?

Any suggestions for further analysis or corrective action?

Thanks in advance...

- Steve

I bought a 98 S70 a few weeks ago. It's been in my garage about a week (waiting on a part), and yesterday I noticed some oil spots on my garage floor under the car. The small drip is coming from the very front of the engine at the bottom on the drivers side (oil filter is on the passenger side). There is a unit in the front that has a set of wires coming out of it, a hose, and a metal tube. There is a bolt there also. What is this unit? Maybe the oil pump? Yesterday, there was a drop of oil on the bolt head. Today, it's down at the bottom of the unit. The interesting thing is that the oil isn't just dripping into a single spot; there are a few of them.

Hello-

I've been reading the forum on and off for the 3+ years that I've owned my V70. For the most part, it's been great.

Recently, I've had an issue with the key not turning when I go to start the car. It's happened at least once for me (in my driveway), and twice for my wife in the past week while she was out. Eventually, it does turn, but at one point it took my wife 5 minutes, on and off, to get the car started.

If it was just something that I had to deal with, I wouldn't be as concerned. But my wife takes out daughter to child-care daily, so I don't want to have them stranded somewhere.

Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks.
Mike

Hi all,
Just wanted to know if anyone has photos or know hows on how to remove the shifter handle from a 99' V70. My shifter button keeps getting stuck and I tried removing the handle, but to no avail.
Anyone have photos or know hows?

Thanks!

Good afternoon all,
I recently had a replacement windshield installed in my '98 S70. Almost immediately after I picked it up, I noticed an alarming amount of creaking and groaning noises coming from multiple areas of the windshield. I took it back to the glass shop for them to listen to the noises, and they suspected it was the plastic lip on the bottom of the new windshield rubbing where it rests against my old dashboard or the plastic cowling in the area where the windshield wipers come up from between my dashboard and my hood.

I spoke with the service manager at my favorite Volvo dealership, and he confirmed that he'd encountered that sound problem before and even has it on his V70. He said it was because the glass was rubbing on a lower section of the dashboard that I could not see with the glass in place, and gave me a long strip of adhesive felt to take to the glass shop. They lifted the windshield and reinstalled it with the felt between the glass and the lower dashboard surface, and when I picked it up, I thought the problem had been solved. There was only the faintest hint of a ticking sound in one corner, that I could barely hear over my engine and suspension, which I was happy to live with. But.. as I drove home, the noises started to return, in multiple locations. The sound has changed slightly, to less of a rubbing, groaning sound and to more of a vibrating, ticking sound, so I think the Volvo service manager is right in suspecting that area.

More importantly, I have noticed that both my windshield and that of the service manager whose car also has the same noises are made by PPG Auto Glass. Prior to the installation I was assured that they are a good manufacturer, that they are apparently an OEM manufacturer for Mercedes, and I verified with PPG themselves that the windshield part # that was installed is the one they say is for my year and model of Volvo.

However, when I first heard the noise and was doing some internet searching, I found a Cooper Mini forum discussing windshield cracking problems inherent to the Mini's. Some of the Mini owners specifically were shopping for PPG brand windshields because they had heard rumors they were slightly thicker than OEM. If this PPG windshield in my car is slightly thicker than the original Pilkington-made glass, could that be the source of our problems? Even if PPG makes a high quality windshield, if it doesn't fit just right...

If anyone has experience with replacement windshields, be they Pilkington, PPG, or something else... or have knowledge about the different glass manufacturers, I would greatly appreciate some opinions and guidance. Everything else on the car is in prime shape after a few tuneups this year, and this one problem is really bothering me -- both for my own driving comfort and for potential (far in the future, I hope) resale of the car.

Thanks for any help!

Hello,
I have a newly purchased 98 V70 T5 manual that has a sagging driver's door. I have tried to adjust it, but it appears the hinges or pins are worn.... there is a bit of play in the door (I can lift it and there is movement in the hinge).
Does this sound like worn pins? Is it easy to replace these, and should they be sourced from volvo (I don't see pins listed from FCP groton).
Thanks in advance,
Andrew

I know this is a pretty well discussed topic, but here's another question. I have a 1998 T5 with 133,000 miles on it. I've been using synthetic oil since I bought the car with 40,000 on it and it hasn't leaked or burned a drop. But within the last several weeks, it has developed a pretty good leak at the rear main. I did the PCV about 15,000 miles ago, but I got the parts at the dealer instead of FCP and didn't read all the posts on the boards so I don't think I cleaned every port I should have. I think it may have plugged somwhere and developed enough pressure to blow the seal. I just checked the PTC and it was clear, so it must have clogged elsewhere.

My question is, will replacing the PCV system again help at all, or do I have to replace the RMS as well. Also, has anyone done this job with a 5 speed car? I'm just curious if there are any shortcuts. At least I'll be able to change the clutch while I'm at it.

I have a 98 v70 in which no fluid comes out of the rear windshield washer. Does anyone know where the pump is located? The front washer works as does the horn, since they all share the same fuse I know its still good. As well the reservoir is full. Since I don’t hear the pump turn on in the rear pretty sure it’s faulty. Anyway, any clues on to its location would be greatly appreciated.

Going through my kids car, noticed one headlight to be particularly DULL, also noticed a new lens, but more to the point the reflector was not shiny like the other side. Managed to pop off the lens, and the reflector appeared to be dirty, so took a little windex on a paper towel and proceeded to clean, well the reflector is plastic, the coating is very thin, and it just rubbed off very easily. So now have no reflection on the reflector.

My question is 2 parts, first any body try to fix this with a chrome type paint? Or has anybody replaced the reflector with out buying to whole headlight assembly?

Thanks

I had CEL come on and the V70 started running poorly. I plugged in OBD and got code P0302 (#2 misfire).
I pulled coils 1 and 2, reversed them, re-scanned, but same result. The plugs looked pretty old so I
replaced the plugs. I've only had this car for a month so I'm just now getting situated with it.

I haven't checked the compression in hole 2 yet but am assuming that's not the problem as the head
was off 1 year ago for low compression in five and was fixed. The wires leading to the coil have some electrical
tape on them so I'm hoping it's possibly the wiring or an injector. I'm looking at the wires only because
anytime I see added tape on either home wires or car, that's a sign of somebodies already been messing
with them. Not that the PCV flametrap has anything to do with this, but haven't checked that system yet.
Will do so in the morning.

Is there any other parts to consider on this problem with the misfire in hole 2?

Just had my car in to smog and it failed.
EVERY thing passed fine~ with the exception of the Idle Emissions CO measuring at 2.03 (max allowed is 1.0). (California smog btw)

I've had no service lights, no codes have come up.
Damned waiting until the last minute to get my car smogged...

This was our first time at a shop that was recommended by a good friend for the smog~ and the guy at the shop said he had no idea what was going on, everything checked out okay, but maybe the throttle body needed replacing.
I've had no rough idle, and honestly no problems of any kind with the car recently! (Does it make any sense that it's the throttle body in this case???)

Would cleaning the throttle body possibly help?
Any suggestions/guidance appreciated!

My 98 s70 t5 service light comes on after a few thousand miles,it comes on for about 3 minutes, then goes away, but this light is a real pain because you have to take it to the dealer or repair shop that has a special tool. I dont feel like spending 40-50$ to get it cleared off but just wondering what you all do to get rid of this light..

So i am in the middle of replacing my head gasket... i have 11 of the 12 head bolts out. In the middle of the engine on the front right of that set of four the bolt will not budge. I have used an air compressor, i have put all my weight into it i have taken a propane torch and heated up the bolt and the area around the bolt and nothing. I want to fix this head gasket right and not use any sort of special stop seal but i at my whit's end and i have no other ideas on how to get this bolt out, I'm at a stand still now because it feels like the head of the bolt is starting to round so i don't want to over do it. I know there is someone who has had this problem, or knows another way to get this bolt loose. Please help

So i have replaced the head gasket on my Volvo. The first attempt at placing the timing belt on it tensioner failed and the crank spun while the cam stayed put. Well upon getting a new tensioner and re-timed the engine, the belt is back and when starting it just cranks over (sounds normal but just makes the cranking noise). The other variable is the battery does not stayed charged without a jumper on it. Could i be 180 degrees off center or could it be due to not having enough cranking amps to start the car? It pushes air out, i haven't hooked up a compression tester up to it to see if it is the correct pressure but it does shoot air out from the spark plug when compressed. Any thoughts?

I just bought a V70 (loved my 850) but I am pretty sure I got taken... The dude cleaned the car real good... I know about the oil leaks with Volvos so I payed particular attention when buying this - no obvious leak... but I did not put it on the rack... my bad!

Anyway, now (after 100 miles or so) I have a massive leak... drivers side puddle (6 inches in diameter after parking 20 min )... I have researched this site and found great info... I took the car to a "stealer" to get their opinion... they said:
Both Oil Cooler lines ($435)
Turbo Oil seal ($115) - my initial review and thought was this was the culprit... more on this later
Front and Rear cam shaft seals ($995) - includes a new timing belt and stuff

And if that doesn't fix it.. it may be the rear main seal... but they have to remove the tranny to tell for sure ??? ($1350)

I did not like the "scatter shot" approach to fixing my problem and certainly will not put that kind of money in the car... so I decided to take it to a well respected local garage (I have never used them but seemed to be good comments on the web)... they were nice, and thorough (they told me things like my cup holder was broke... window did not work...)

Anyway they said it was the rear main seal ($1000)....

So here are my questions...
1. can a tech diagnose a rear main seal issue by sight? No one cleaned any oil (and it is ALL OVER the place under there)?
2. I was thinking about cleaning up the oil and putting some die in and looking for the leak that way... is that a reasonable approach?

When I look down behind the engine on the drivers side... there is a puddle directly under the turbo pipe... I was going to remove the clutter and check this more closely...

How should I proceed? BTW: I am pretty handy with cars... not afraid... but also have $$$ if the job is better left to a pro (like the rear main seal).

Thank you Obiwan!

I own a 1998 Volvo V70 (AWD) with 145,000 miles. The breather box was recently replaced and the associated tubing cleaned/replaced (the mechanic suggested it was partly clogged and the work should be done). Before this the car ran fine. About a week after the breather box was replaced, we noticed that the car was leaking quite a bit oil. The car never leaked oil before, so figured the problem was related to the breather box work. Took the car back to the mechanic and had him look it over. He changed a small hose, said it was clogged with carbon. He added an oil additive (SeaFoam) into the system in the hopes that it would break up any other bits of carbon, which would then work themselves through.

The car was ok for a couple of days. Then, following some freeway driving, the car produced voluminous clouds of nasty blue smoke from the exhaust. We took the car back (again), and the mechanic noted that there was high positive crankcase pressure. He again checked/cleared hoses leading to/from the breather box, and again added SeaFoam. We took the car back and it ran fine for about a week. Then, once again huge clouds of blue smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. We took the car back to the mechanic (3rd post-breather box visit). The mechanic once again measured the crankcase pressure (it was positive), and said he confirmed that the breather box system was clear. He then did a "leak down" test, and found that there was 20-24% leak down in two of the cylinders. His conclusion: the engine needed to be either rebuilt or replaced in order to fix the problem (i.e. he suspected badly worn rings/valves).

The next day, we tested the compression: 4 cylinders have compression of 175 psi, the 5th cylinder 155 psi. We also changed the oil to a slightly heavier grade (15/40). Car still smokes like crazy (but otherwise runs ok). We put a rubber surgical glove over the oil filler (with the car running) -- there is still positive crankcase pressure. We then phoned a couple of other mechanics and explained the problem. Both said that it was highly unlikely that we needed to replace the engine. One suggestion was that the turbo charger either has bad seals that allowed oil to leak into the exhaust, and/or we had a plugged turbo charger oil return line.

Questions: Is the turbocharger the most likely culprit? What is involved in checking the oil return line an/or the turbo seals?
Could the oil additive have damaged the seals?
How can I check the breather box system to determine if it really is clear?
Any other ideas?

Hi, I am looking at upgrading from a 940 se turbo estate to a 1G V70 estate. Seems you get a lot of car for your money. What faults/specs do I need to look out for. Ideally I would like an auto. Is turbo better or naturally asperated? Thanks

Hello all! This is my first post on this forum. I have read/posted on other forums, but they are having problems, so I was decided to come here.

I finally got around to replacing my busted heater core today. Symptoms I had were a "sweet" smell when I turned the heat on, damp carpet on both the driver and passenger side floors, film on the windshield and finally the check coolant light started coming on.. My Volvo is a standard 1998 V70.

I initially called the local dealership and a local import repair shop and was quoted $700+ and $1000+. I unfortunately don't have that kind of money floating around, so I searched online.

I managed to get a brand new Behr heater core for $140 shipped and after 2.5 hours of work, I feel like I saved between $600-$900. I did not replace the thermostat.

It wasn't the easiest thing I've done in my life, but I have never done ANY maintenance work on my car until now.

Here is the leaking that was happening when I turned the heat on (sorry environment). Fortunately its hot here most of the year.




First of all, I drained the coolant. I found the plastic screw at the bottom of the radiator. I bought a collection bin for the coolant which I am going to take to a local disposal facility.


After I removed the coolant cap, the coolant flowed out quickly. After the coolant was drained, I ran a bunch of distilled water through to flush the system.




After pulling the carpet back, there are panels on the driver and passenger sides which hide the heater core "sarcophagus"
Driver

Passenger


Here is the "sarcophagus". You can see where the fluids were draining out onto the carpet.




Wet carpet.

Hello everyone,

I'm pretty new here and I'm glad to join the forum
I need help identifying a turbo, And a few other questions.

Here are some pictures:
http://img402.imageshack.us/i/dsc01337p.jpg/
http://img402.imageshack.us/i/dsc01335f.jpg/
http://img191.imageshack.us/i/dsc01329qw.jpg/
http://img716.imageshack.us/i/dsc01325.jpg/
http://img695.imageshack.us/i/dsc01323s.jpg/

Is that S70 T5 Original turbo ?
If it does, "Mitsubishi" is the manufacturer of this turbo ?
this turbo comes with an engine model - B5234FT (2.3 L) ?

Jesse

I have a 98 s70 and the check engine light is on for an evap leak code P0442. I was told the gas cap may need to be replaced because it is simply worn out and just needs to be replaced. I have heard that if the gas cap is not on tightly, than this could set off the check engine light. Also the light may be on because something is cracked and needs replacing underneath the car.If anyone has experienced this problem or knows then let me know.

Where is the connection point for a trailer light wiring harnass? Is it possible to get a plug and play harness or will I need to splice?
thanks
BDB4

Hello
as in title,my engine block(97 prod year) is cracked.I have to replace that unit with another one,but its very hard to find in PL that specific engine,that why im asking you for advise.
1, if i buy engine that was running in v70 with auto transmission is it going to be any problem with instaling that unit in mine car?i got manual transmission
2 can i use engine from year 99 its the same model but i know that Volvo put some changes in that year.

I have a new 2010 XC70 with 2 phones (mine and my wife's) paired up via Bluetooth. Everything works perfectly.

If my wife is driving the car for the day, and then I get into the car the following morning it won't *automatically* connect to my phone. (i.e. I need to select my phone in the dashboard and then it immediately connects to it). My last car would try to connect to any phone that it found as soon as the car was started . (i.e. If I got in the car, it would find my phone automatically without having to select it).

Is this normal? Seems like strange design.

Hello Forum,
I have a 1999 Volvo XC 70. I am having occasional problems starting the car. I have a good battery, and I had the starter replaced a few months ago. I notice the problem primarily when the gas tank is below 1/2 full, making me wonder if there is some fuel line/fuel pump issue. It always starts, but chugs for awhile when there is less gas in the tank. Pressing the accelerator once or twice while cranking it eventually gets her fired up.

Any ideas? My mechanic who worked on it gladly took my money for the starter, but refused to admit that wasn't the problem or that there was a problem, even when I took it over and showed him. So, I'm looking for a second opinion before I take it somewhere else and pay more money for things that don't fix the problem. Thanks!

Does anyone know where the throttle position sensor is on my 2000 V70 T5.It has had the fault codes read and they all point to the TPS, but I can' find it.

I have a S70, 2.5, 20v, auto, 1998. It has been parked in the garage for 5 months, I never even started it once, until yesterday.
When I put it in there it was running and driving fine. We had to jump start it and it started first time, I left it running while I pumped the tyres up and the engine just cut out, there was no warning, it was running fine and then just cut out. I tried to start it again with a new battery installed and now it just turns over but wont fire up a couple of times it nearly started. Also whilst the engine is turning over it will just stop turning then as if somthing is jammed and then it will turn over again, this happens whilst holding the key in the forward position without letting go.
The fuel pump is working, I have changed the plugs and the leads are fairly new.
I have been so looking forward to getting her back on the road, Any ideas?

If it is easier to talk on the phone, e-mail me your number and I'll call you back.
Thanks Gary

Hi to all,

I was wondering if anyone could help me. I had some work done to my car and now both remotes don't work. You can lock and unlock with the key but nothing happens when you uses the remotes.

Can anyone help with this. I am hoping it nice and simple and won't have to take it in a dealer.

Many Thanks
Greg

I am new to using a code reader. I purchased a cheap "cReader" OBDII code reader. I've had a troublesome check engine light that comes on every once in a while. The last time it came on I plugged in the reader and got; a "1" then a "2" then a "3" and then - - - -.

I am able to clear the check engine light so I know it communicates with the car.

Anyone have any ideas?

I recently purchased a 2000 S70 SE manual trans. I had it three days and had some major problems with it.

The car drove fine for about 300+ miles. Suddenly on the way to Chicago I lost most power. The car would barley accelerate, though there was no rough idle, no check engine light, no nothing, just a SEVERE lack of power. Pushed the clutch in and floored motor with RPM's barley reaching 3,000. I was "limping" to an off ramp when the power was restored with a sudden jolt. The car then ran as if nothing happened. This is part 1 of the horror story.

The lack of power came back. I was already on my way to drop my friend off at his brother in law's body shop so I limped the few miles there. Again, no check engine light, no shaking, just a severe lack of power. Clutch in or out it did not matter. Like I said; in no gear and floored the car would barley go over 3,000 rpm.

At the body shop they were thinking the heavy rain we were having swamped something. We gook the coils off the plugs and blew some air into where the plugs were. Some oil came out, which made me cringe on my 3 day old car… They blew everything out, put the coils back on and started the car. It ran fine. I waited about an hour and was leaving. This time I started the car and it was very obviously not running on all cylinders. The check engine light came on and it was shaking bad (this is the first time the check engine light came on). It appears one of the coils was shorted out. The body shop is thinking the oil did it. I’m in a bind, as I’m not even sure the dealer is going to fix the 3 day old car. Illinois and Wisconsin do NOT have the 30-90 warranty periods most states have. It’s “buyer beware”.

The car is being towed back to the dealer where at the very least they will cheaply or freely fix the valve cover oil seal, which is no doubt bad (stop me if I’m wrong) and the bad coil or coils will be replaced (one way or another). My concern is this may not be the only thing wrong. I simply do not understand how before this happened the car lost so much power, but continued to run as smooth as glass. When it first happened my first thought went to the drive by wire throttle system I’ve heard they have.

One way or the other the valve cover oil gasket and coils will be fixed. But I’m worried the “stalling” or lack of power problem will occur again. I’d rather not have my “new” baby in the shop every other week or get stuck on long drives which I like to take. Hoping for some answers here from anyone that might have some ideas feel free to chip in.

I just don’t understand how if the coil was failing on the way to the shop how it could still run smooth as glass. How could there have been no check engine light with such lack of power, and why would it have suddenly came back so quickly at one point?

can any body tell me if i can change cam position sensor seal without removing top half of head
i have a98 v70xc with 2.4 t. please help?!!!!

So... a couple of days ago my wife took the 1999 v70xc to drop off the kids to school and then to run some errands... she let the car warm up for 5-10 mins, and i had advised her to put in coolant if she sees the red low coolant light turn on.... as she is driving, the windows are still foggy and the defrost doesnt seem to work... anyways... then smoke starts to come from the hood and vents....

she pulls over, waits and puts in coolant... as she does this she describes to be that it just sucked up the coolant and she had to pour more coolant in... she thinks it leaked onto the ground....

so i had it towed... the mechanic did a pressure test, and left the car running for at least 2 hours... no smoke, no issues...

where's sherlock holmes when you need him?

i would appreciate any help / suggestions...

thanks in advance.

I have a 1998 Volvo S70,the lights are on all the time,Is there a way to disable them so they only come on with the headlight switch???

Thanks.....

So my 98 V70 Glt has some issues. The head gasket must have a leak because the dipstick has a milky white color to it, usually meaning that there is water getting in and the only thing could be the gasket right? My other problem is that when the engine is cold there is no leak what so ever. But when the car warms up and im sitting in idle there is a massive amount of leakage of coolant. So that tells me there is some sort of leak on the engine side of the thermometer or the thermometer it self not sealed correctly. The leak is on the drivers side behind the block somewhere near left side of the exhaust so that narrows out the hose from the radiator and the water pump. Is there anything else there that it could be leaking from?

We went on a trip this weekend thats when all of this happened Also while driving up a hill i lost most power with my foot on the floor i was able to stay at the same speed with 3000 rpm's but couldn't go any faster, but while in the middle of the hill it just took off and was able to go faster any idea on that? Now no matter what i do i cant replicate the problem....

So just a little bit of issues if you have any ideas let me know thanks..

The hatch on my 99 XC70 AWD recently began to fall after being raised. It does it inconsistently. It used to start to fall but if you caught it and made sure it was all the way up it would stay. But now it won't stay up and can really knock your head when you least expect it. I assumed that I would have to replace some type of "shock" like other trunks and hoods but they are not obvious on this model. Can anyone help with what parts are needed and how to?

I had a Volvo V70 in July. It is a 2.5 turbo estate, and is p reg. Since the weather has got colder the steering seems to have got noisier and noisier, and I don't no why. It also seems to be harder to steer, and to be pulling. I am a bit concerned as we have only just had this car and we haven't got a lot of money really. Also I am worried that the steering is just going to break or something and I will end up crashing. Does anyone know why it is so noisy and what I can maybe do to fix it, (apart from obviously taking it to a mechanic.)
Thanks for reading.

I have a 1998 S70. It has a bad odor in the cabin, the best way I can descriobe it is that it smells similar to a mechanics shop. I don't know what it is. It seems to be worse in the summer when it is hot out. Someone told me that it could be a heater core, but with the heat or off the car still has this odor. I recently found that the floorboard of the drivers side is always wet, could this odor be caused by mold? I had the cabin air filter changed but it did not help, they even cleaned the vents out with a bleach solution. Any help would be geat.

Thanks

My 98 V70 T5 now has about 166K mi. on her over the past 11 years of ownership. I've run synthetic oil since the original warranty expired ~ 50k. Never had any problems associated with the PCV system, though I've read numerous stories about dipsticks being pushed out, smoke coming out, etc.

My mechanic showed me an intake pipe he'd recently removed, where the PTC valve was completely clogged. Since mine had never been off, I decided to investigate.

Getting to the clamp holding it onto the turbo inlet was a real pain. I could only see the screwhead with an inspection mirror from above. I couldn't see a way to get to it from beneath the car. I used a 1/4" drive and socket and got it on there by feel. Room was so tight, the rachet could only make one click at a time.

Finally got the thing off. Much to my surprise, it wasn't clogged. I could easily see light through it. It did need cleaning though, so I used carb spray and a drill bit to scrape out the fittings.

The two lines that attach to the PTC valve, one large, one small, are both rigid plastic. When I went to reattach them, both had broken off up inside the loom. They were just fossilized. Very brittle. I easily snapped off another piece between my fingers.

So it looks like I'll be pulling the intake manifold off to replace them. It'll be interesting to see what shape the oil separator box is in and the ports through the side of the block.

BTW, this site has some great info which I'll be using to make this job easier!

I have a 1998 s70 GLT with 190K miles and change the oil regularly. I runs great, until huge snow we had here.
While driving through 6 inch snow my oil light came on, stopped the car and checked the oil level and oil in the camshaft area. Oil was flowing thought the camshaft area and flinging out of the oil filler hole when i reved it up. I figured the pressure switch connector had come disconnected in the snow. I continued to drive the car for day. The light was come on and off occassionally.
In the morning i noticed it took longer for the oill light to go off and could hear the valves in the car but by the time i got out to check the noise it goes away. I decided to let the car warm up a bit longer as the temp here was at 0 degree for days. Today the light came on and didn't go off. By the time i got to my destination i could start hearing the valve noise again.

Do Oil Pumps go bad intermittenly?

Until i can find out the problem the V sits.

Hi All,

I find your forum to be a great resource for info on these cars.. I am selling my 2004 Sequoia for a '99 Volvo S70. I have a deposit down already and I've scheduled an appointment Jan 20 to get the car 100pt inspected by a Volvo specialist in town and, if it all looks pretty good, I'll pay the remaining balance.

I've identified 3 definite issues so far:

1) Cupholders are broken (ordered some on eBay already)
2) A/C Vent on Pass side in main (center) stack has a broken fin - also available on eBay for cheap...
3) No factory CD player! Bummer. Found some on eBay for ~$90 incl shipping. Anyone care to make my life easy and tell me if it's plug and play (I'll use the search feature if I can't get an easy answer!)

Anyway, my bro also has a '99 and he's had a good experience with it so far.. hence the reason for my purchase!

Just wanted to say hello. I know how important it is to reach out to a knowledgeable community like this one with an older vehicle.

I am struggling in removing this little bulb. Seems its in a plastic housing that moves up and down like it should pop out but doesn't. I am afraid I am going to break this housing. I tried just twisting the bulb but it did not move. Not sure if the bulb comes out of plastic housing by twisting bulb or do I need to try to remove the plastic housing the bulb is in and pop the bulb out. Can anyone help? Thanks

Hi. I'm new here so hello to all.
My car, a 2000 V70 T5 has a message displayed which says 'Engine System Service Urgent'. Does anyone have any information about this? Any help appreciated.

I hit a huge pothole the other day and bent my passenger front wheel. I was wondering if anyone who has changed to aftermarket rims has one for sale. BTW I'm just looking for one of the steel rims that will have a hubcap. Thanks

My 98 S70 non turbo starting hesitating and stalling. Check engine light code showed mass air flow sensor. I unplugged it started it and it ran a lot better. As soon as I plugged it back in it stalled. Removed it and cleaned it with mass air flow cleaner and reinstalled it, this did not help. Went to Advanced and paid $110 for a reman mass air flow sensor. Installed it and same thing. What were the chances they gave me a bum part? went a little bit farther in other directions and came up empty. Decided to take this cheap remanufactured part back and purchased a new mass air flow sensor (Bosh) from advanced for $220. Came home and disconnected the battery while I put the new Bosch mass air flow sensor in and then connected the battery terminal, I have heard it is a good idea to disconnect the battery for a good 15 minutes to properly clear the code, knowing it certainly cannot hurt anything I did just that. Car now runs awesome, I guess you get what you pay for. I got a lot of headaches and frustration trying to save a couple of bucks. Do yourself a favor and shop around for the best price on a new bosh mass air flow sensor and stay away from the cheap remanufactured junk or it could bite you in the rear end. Good luck!!!

Hello, my wife was pulled over the other day in our 1998 Volvo V70 because her tailights/brakelights and license plate lights were not working...Tough way to find out. Also about 1/4 of the instrument panel is not lit anymore. From what I have read this is to let you know your tailights are out so you cannot see them. I have checked the applicable fuses and they all seem fine.

Any ideas????

I HAVE WATER IN THE REAR OF MY V70 . ON THE RIGHT SIDE , COMING IN AROUND THE SPEAKER GRILL. ANY IDEAS PLEASE ON HOW TO FIND THE LEAK.