Hello, we have answers for your Volvo-related questions!. Why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums. Together we can make our Volvo community a better place.
Evaperator Replacement: First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery. Next you will need to remove all the freon. Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut. Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it. Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.
Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove. Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.
Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.
That should be all for under the hood for now.
Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.
First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.
The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there. Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.
Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.
The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control) If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.
If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.
Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work. Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling. Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw. Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.
Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up. The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover. Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.
Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle. There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.
Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash. Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out. Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.
Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well. Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.
The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it. You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part. Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.
Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.
Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case. Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.
On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal. Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you. Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.
When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws. Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.
Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator. Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.
Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.
ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.
Put everything back together in reverse order.
Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer. Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.
Then charge the system.
I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things. If any quiestions feel free to ask.
Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.
These are Volvo instructions. Remove The oil dipstick and its pipe. The splashguard under the engine.
Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear. Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.
Removing the oil sump(oil pan)
Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump. Remove all screws except fro four. It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases. Remove the remaining screws. Remove the sump.
Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block. Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440
Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)
Installing the oil pan
Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)
Install new o-rings The oil sump. Secure it loosely with a few screws. Then the remaining screws.
Press the pump against the transmission Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.
First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm. Then tighten to 48 Nm. Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm. Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs. Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line. Connect the oil cooler to the sump. Use new o-rings. Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.
Install A new oil filter The oil drain plug with a new o-ring The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.
Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.
Fill the engine oil. Run the engine to operating temp. Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler. Install the splash sheild under the engine. Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.
Some more notes: You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.
Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.
Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.
Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.
I think that is about all. If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.
Sorry but I don't have the part # for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.
I made this tool at work to check for intake leaks and leaks in the vent system. Some people will by Fog machines in shops that will do almost the same thing. This is only a picture of the tool and a small idea of how to use it. This can only be used with a air compressor.
So I got the round plastic cap looking thing from a New fresh air hose that was purchased from the Dealer for a Customer.
Then I got a pressure regulator with a gauge on it. Also got some couplers that matched the air lines at work. I installed the couplers on the regulator first. one female and one male so it can be installed inline with the hose. I than took the plastic cap and drilled a hole in it. I drilled it small enough that the coupler could be screwed into it.Then took a female coupler that had female threads in it rather than male threads and screwed it on the male part of the threads on the cap.
Then when you need to check for an intake leak or boost leak you can remove the induction hose from the massflow and slide the cap into the hose and clamp it in there. Then remove the oil cap.(I loosen the cap and stick a rag between the cap and motor to prevent splattering oil when the cap vibrates) Then plug in the hose to the regulator setup.(Make sure the regulator is turned all the way down so no air comes out. Then turn the regulator up to about 3 PSI 4 max. Then listen for leaks. If you can't hear anything leaking get a bottle of soapy water and spray all connections looking for bubbles.
I was getting a check engine light and code P0130 on startup, after a couple of days this changed to a P0135 - this is the oxygen sensor heater malfunction, basically this warms it to operating temperature at startup, until the exhaust gets up to temperature. earlier in the week the replacement part arrived, the challenge was to change it. its nicely positioned to access with a socket, the big problem here is the length and the attached wires. after trying for a couple of days with an open ended wrench, there is a flange right next to the sensor that stops the wrench turning. ideally you would use a long reach split 22mm socket - the split to get the socket past the wire. on the old one I eventually cut the wire - committing myself to getting the old one out, then found that even my standard long reach 22mm socket was too short inside to reach the nut portion. I decided to remove the crimped section, so took a pry bar and a hammer and gave it a couple of hard whacks. this bent the crimped section, ok I thought, can I spin that round to hammer the other way, spun the crimped section, and to my surprise found the old sensor was also turning, after whacking it - it was only finger tight. New sensor fitted and CEL out - no codes. Success. the big problem with this is getting the old sensor out, spanner access is very tight, a 14mm very long reach plug spanner might just fit (it is almost 22mm across the flats, the one I had was just a little tight, and I had no space to hammer it on, as the brake lines were in the way. Grendel
I have a 2000 S70. About a year ago it began intermittently giving me a delay of a few seconds before the headlights, running lights (including turn signals), dash lights, and seat warmers would come on. However, break lights and radio still worked. If I switched to parking lights, they and dash would switch on, but switching back to headlamps would turn them back off. Once they came on, they never turned back off and it was only intermittent, and only when the car was cold (ie never when the car was warm from a recent trip).
Eventually it got annoying enough I went to a junk yard and picked up a used headlight relay (the big double one in the fusebox under the hood at driver's side). That seemed to fix the problem...but only temporarily as maybe a month or so down the line it started doing it again.
Eventually I took it to the dealership thinking maybe I'd just gotten another bad relay, but they said that wasn't it and instead replaced the headlight switch inside the car. A few days later, it happened again. So, I took it back to the dealership, but they couldn't reproduce the problem, so sent it home.
A few more weeks go by and now it's regular. It can take up to 10 minutes for them to come on, within a couple days they just stop coming on. So, I pop the hood, tap on the top of the fuse box...and voila, they come on! But, I have to do this every single time I start the car. So, back to the dealership. I'm able to demonstrate to a mechanic the fuse box tap...in fact, it actually turns the lights both on AND off. He takes the lid off, same thing just tapping on the sides of the box, not actually on the relay. He pulls the relay, confirms all the contacts look good, and when he slides it back in they immediately work and he can't get them to turn back off again. He checked all the wiring up to the box and says it all looks good. He says it could possibly be the relay, but he's their senior mechanic and has never had to replace one, let alone 2 in the same car. I'm not anxious to pay $185 for a non-refundable part when the mechanic isn't sounding confident it's the problem, so I just take the car home to see how it goes now that they're working again.
Yeah, two days later I have to start popping the hood and tapping the box every time I start the car...even when it's warm. Then, the tapping stops working regularly. So, one day after tapping for 20 minutes, I decided to put the original relay back in since it was still working just at the very intermittent stage when I took it out. It also needed a few good taps. Turned the car off for a few minutes...and they didn't come back on.
I feel like if it was the relay, the original would be working the same as when I'd taken it out. Plus, tapping on the top or the side of the fusebox, on the opposite side of the relay makes it seem like something else, too. Any ideas?
Pretty new to this forum. I have a 2000 V70XC with 180,000 miles. The ATF has been flushed at a Volvo dealer at 35, 70, 110, and 145K with Dexron III, is still clean and pink, and shifts smoothly. I also just purchased a 1999 V70XC with 57,000 miles privately, with a history of a transmission flush at 30,000 miles with an unknown ATF(there is no paperwork but a sticker from a Volvo dealer in the engine compartment "documents" an ATF flush at 30K and it's also recorded on the CARFAX). It shifts smoothly and is reddish-brown and smells OK. I thought I would would perform an ATF flush on both so I've read a lot of forum info on the transmission flush and ATF type for the AW 50-42 4-spd transmission. (same trans in both cars as per the owner's manual).
As I understand it(and please correct me if I'm wrong): 1. Dexron III is called for in the owner’s manual for the AW 50-42. 2. A Volvo service bulletin calls for the use of JWS 3309 Spec ATF for "hard lockup engagement/disengagement in the AW 50-42 transmissions". Doing a search for that service bulletin (http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/s70/l5-2.4l_vin_61_b5244s/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/cooling_system/radiator/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_bulletins_for_radiator/4430029/may/00/a/t_hard_lockup_engagement/disengagement/) also references using Dexron IIIG Spec ATF. Are JWS 3309 and Dexron III G the same thing? 3. I've read that Dexron III and JWS 3309 should not be mixed, so a complete flush (16 qts) would be needed to change from Dexron III to JWS 3309 or Dexron III G.
My questions: 1. On the 2000 XC, since I haven’t had transmission lockup issues, should I just continue using Dexron III since it’s been used with all of the previous flushes? 2. On the 1999, I’ll have to do a full flush since the previous fluid used is unknown. Again, Dex III or JWS 3309?
The advice from 3 Volvo dealers with these questions (sheesh): Dealer 1. We only use Dex III (not aware of the bulletin) Dealer 2. We only use Dex III (hadn’t heard of the JWS3309 spec) Dealer 3. We perform a full flush with 3309 on all of these transmissions, whether or not the harsh lockup exists.
Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks in advance for your thoughts/advice.
This morning I went to get something from the back of my V70, and found it locked, as I have the model with no handle inside, and no key, I had to break the clips on the top edge of the tailgate card to get in to manually trip the catch. a few tests told me it worked most of the time in the open position, but as soon as I closed the tailgate it stopped. My very first thought was the wiring in the hinge. after unclipping the trim on the hinge the wire came free - and yes the outer sheath was chafed, on stripping back to the wires there were 4 wires broken, and another with a dodgy looking kink that I repaired also. unplug the connector inside the top of the left trim (right up near the hinge) this is just small enough to feed through the hole. at each of the breaks I let in a 3" length of wire 1" for each solder joint and 1" slack, stripped back a similar amount of each broken wire, tinned the bare wires then soldered them up, if I had got any heat shrink I would have used this, but instead I taped over with insulating tape. once all the wires were fixed I refitted the rubber sheath and then slid the cloth sheath back over the top - then reinforced that all with some more insulating tape. result, the lock now functions as do all the rest of the tailgate electrics, all that is know needed are some new clips for the trim. Grendel
After searching through plenty of forums and looking at each code individually I still have no idea what's going on with this car. Some days it works flawlessly and other days it wont even start. I had a tune up done by a small local garage who said the car was in good shape. Right now, it wont start and I'm getting 5 codes:
P1118 P1603 P1670 P1620 P1118 P
I can get the car to start if i push the gas pedal while turning the key, however it stalls immediately after I let go. If I do get the car to start up, the engine "pulses" (rpms go up and down) then stalls after a while.
I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. its leaking 50/50 coolant from somewhere but that's not the problem because i topped it off and nothing changed. Its due for an oil change but I don't think that would cause all those codes
My 2000 Volvo C70 just failed the Illinois emissions test solely because my Check Engine light was on, The "Stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes" were codes P0722 (Output speed Sensor Circuit No Signal) and P1618 (TCM). They did not check the emissions at all! Since these codes are not emissions related what do I have to do to pass the test? I don't want to spend money to fix something unrelated to emissions! Should I try to educate the state of Illinois about their flawed prcodeure? I recently replaced the ABS module. Thank you.
How to remove a stuck brake rotor, without damaging it. I have removed the caliper and bracket, sprayed PB blaster on rotor, hammered it a lot. Parking brake is released. Rotor won't budge. I'd rather not damage the old rotor, as I'm not really sure the new one will fit yet.
How do I tighten a steering wheel which jiggles a little bit? It has "play" in it, up and down, and right and left, while car not moving.
Remove airbag first, then tighten nut at center of wheel? What screws/fasteners need to be removed? Torx?
This is for a 2000 v70xc.
Update: I figured it out. Got airbag off with a 30torx, and tightened the center bolt somewhat. Needed a 18mm socket, which I don't have but still tightened it some with a 19mm. Remember to remove the negative battery cable before starting job. I waited a half hour to start.
About 80% of the time my speedometer and odometer will stop working while I am driving. If I shut the car down and restart, about half the time the speed/odo will start working. And sometimes it will not work at all. And then it will go out anyway after awhile.
It does not seem to be connected to whether my ABS light comes on or not. The ABS light will come on, then go out, particularly on rainy or humid days. Had the same problem with my 98 850 after my wheel bearing was replaced. When I clean the connection to the sensor, the problem resolves itself for a few months.
The speed/odo failure does not generate any OBD codes, but it does seem to affect my MPG (hard to tell as the odo isn't working.)
The car has a host of other nagging electrical issues, such as the electric door locks not opening when the car gets warm, but they don't seem to be related. Reminds me of my old 67 Ford Country Squire SW that got me through university.
Hello, new to forum,would love some insight on my 98 s-70 issue,car has 220,000mi on it runs great! has slight radiator leak, after starting it runs a little rough for about 5 mins then runs great. 1 plug is misfiring. about 4 months ago car shut down for the first time [low oil pressure,low coolant] lights come on. hadn't done since last week, then again yesterday, each time I pull over and car starts strong. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you!
I recently purchased a 2000 Volvo V70XC with 138k, and it drives beautifully on normal town roads at 30-40mph. However, on the motorway at 60MPH<, it starts shaking. The steering wheel is the worst when this happens but the entire car does shake. It doesn't wander or pull, just shudders. This varies, from barely anything to a full on earthquake-style vibration. We had the wheels balanced after we noticed it, but to no avail. The intensity of the shake varies randomly, but it seems worse when I stop accelerating. This shudder just abruptly appears at 60mph and usually gets worse as I go faster. Any input would be appreciated.
Hello all! I'm new to the forums and I'm glad I found this site as I have run into a little bit of an issue with my 99 S70 T5. First off, my Volvo needs new right and left control arms. Upon looking the parts up to find the absolute best price, I came across a nice control arm kit for a reasonable price. I cross referenced the parts I ordered online with the same parts that were being sold at auto parts stores in my area. Every website came up with the exact same model of control arm for my vehicle. I have no skill in automotive repair but (I thought) I was good at least with the researching on the part I needed. So I ordered the kit and it showed up promptly. Every site I looked on and every store I visited always showed me the exact same part. A 4 bolt control arm kit. Every single one of them said it was the model needed for my car. So I bought it. Now I had these parts sitting in my house for the better part of 3 months before I took them to a mechanic to put them in. As it turns out, the mechanic saw that my car needs the 2 bolt control arm. which, to me means that I cannot receive a refund or replacement on the parts I have because I was beyond the refund period. Now for my question.
Is it possible to remove the 4 bolt bushings and replace them with the normal bushings for a 2 bolt assembly?
Hi, I have owned a 2000 XC70 AWD Cross country for nearly a year. Recently all the drivers door functions EG windows,mirror adjustments , remote locking and unlocking etc have failed. My regular garage has checked out thedoor but has been unable to correct the problem. Any advise would be welcome
I recently purchased a 1999 Volvo S70 on Craigslist. The car looks superb but was not running. I got a great deal and suspected a bad alternator. Me electrical engineering background helped me troubleshoot a bad alternator and 2 failed coil packs. I replaced the parts, and with help of a great Youtube vid tutorial on the alternator.
I was delighted that was the culprit and tue car runs smoothly. I work on and collect motorcycles for a living, ajd had planned to sell the car for a profit, tuat was until one rainy night when i decided to park the bike and drive the Volvo. I was driving and said outloud "Wow! I'd be crazy to sell this!"
So i took the ad down and registered the car. When the anternator went it took out one headlight and the 2 coil packs.
The check engine light is still on, but the car randomly lights the abs light and the upshift arrow.
Can anyone guide me to the next step? Does it just need to be reset, or also need the rom flashed?
Any guidance or experience shared will be greatly appreciated. I live in Richmond Virginia.
A 2003 Turbo-charged Volvo V70 with nearly 100 thousand miles. I want to make it faster but with that many miles nothing is really worth it except re-chipping or flashing the ECU. Unfortunately i cant find anyone who sells a specific chip for the V70 and i'm not sure i fully understand what flashing the ECU does, so i'm hesitant. If anyone knows of any good chips or can explain what flashing ECU would do that would be great. --------------- Buy vcds 12.12 for VW Audi bSeat Skoda .we have the following version English 12.12(paypal, DHL/Fedex/EMS) Read more: http://www.obd2tool.com/goods-4708-VAGCOM+...+Interface.html
Volvos from 97 and earlier were very pricey to fix, but the plus side is that you did not have to fix them very often, maybe half as much as a regular car but the repairs will cost triple or more. I would not say as much as a BMW and they had far fewer things go wrong with them, but they were not too terrible to keep up Launch X431 Diagun.
In 1998 and afterwards the price for parts dropped which means repairs are cheaper, but the company pulled a complete 180 in terms of reliability. Volvos no longer have remotely acceptable reliability and will usually cost quite a bit more than a BMW as a result.
recently my heater / cooling fan has been playing up, one of the symptoms was surging to full speed when under heavy braking. Today I got the chance to have a look, removing the glove compartment lining and the panel below I took the fan off to test it (its fairly easy 4 torx screws and unclip a couple of parts) when Iwas testing it I noticed some strange behaviour, when I tipped the fan vertical (fan down - motor up) it ran at full speed, stopping at the normal operating position - Horizontal, I suspect the brushes are worn. I have generally oiled it, and whacked the back with a hammer to try and deform the motor housing to push the drive shaft forward a little (there is no visible movement). By doing this I have the fan running again, though I hear it stutter on acceleration, a replacement used fan has been ordered, so I am hoping the fix lasts out until next weekend. at least now I can benefit from running the air con, its worse than useless with no fan running. Grendel
1. Make sure you have your radio code (from the dealer) and a record of your preset radio stations. Reset all of the residuals by removing the battery negative terminal, pumping the brakes to discharge the electrical system and reconnecting the battery negative terminal. You will need to reenter your radio code and preset stations when you are done with these diagnostics. 2. The engine fan has two fan speeds. The speeds are energized by signals from the ECM to the fan relay. The fan relay is designed to make sure that only ONE of the fan speeds can be energized. 3. It is important to note that if your cooling system were filled with pure water and was unpressurized, the water would boil over before the ECM would think it was hot enough to turn on the fan. IT IS VITAL THAT YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM BE A 50/50 MIX AND THAT IT RETAINS PRESSURE IN ORDER FOR THE COOLANT TO REACH A TEMPERATURE THAT WILL CAUSE THE ECM TO TURN ON THE FAN(S). 4. Due to the four layer sandwich design of the condenser/intercooler/radiator/fan assembly, the ECM is supposed to turn on the fan when the A/C compressor is running. So you might want to verify that condition by turning on the A/C or Defroster. 5. Bisect the diagnostics by checking whether the fans are functional since that is the easiest test. 6. With the car OFF, check if the fan blades are easily rotated. 7. With the car OFF, locate the plastic cover above the radiator. 8. Dislodge the plastic cover over the radiator by it pushing slightly toward the engine and lifting up (no screws or clips). This will give you easy access to the fan relay attached to it (slides off) under its left side. 9. There are multiple wires running to the fan relay in three connectors. You are interested in the middle connector. The middle connector has a yellow wire and a yellow/white wire. 10. Remove the middle connector from the relay. Inspect the connector for corrosion and clean if necessary. 11. Use a jumper wire to connect ONE of the exposed pins in the relay to ground (e.g. the engine right in front of you). You should hear the fan start spinning. 12. Use the same jumper wire to connect the other exposed pin in the relay to ground. You should hear the fan start spinning, but at a different speed than the first time. 13. If the fan doesnâ€™t spin (and especially if it only spins on one jumped connection), then check the fuses to the left of the relay. Remove the little black covers and check them both. Alternately, you can use a VOM instead of your jumper wire on the exposed pins from before to measure whether voltage is present (which would mean that the corresponding fuse was good). 14. Reconnect the relay connector and reinstall the plastic cover. 15. If the fan does run at both speeds, then the ECM is not telling it to spin. The most fundamental but rare situation would be that both the wires (yellow, yellow/white) are broken/corroded. Leave that to the dealer since you need a special tool to remove the ECM. The ECM can also sense whether the yellow and yellow/white wires have an open circuit (sets codes). 16. The ECM turns on the fan when the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (a thermistor) delivers a very low resistance reading (e.g. 150 ohms). It will also turn on the fan when the ECT sensor indicates ultra-low or ultra-high temperatures (sets code) because it cannot trust the ECT sensor and this fail-safe mode helps ensure safe coolant temperatures. 17. The ECT sensor is located on the thermostat housing below the upper radiator hose where it meets the engine. It has relatively generous connecting wires to a simple connector that you can pull forward to gain access to that connector. 18. It is important to disconnect and inspect the contacts of this ECT sensor connector. It is possible that corrosion is slightly increasing the resistance which the ECM interprets to be a colder engine (so it never turns on the fan). When making any reconnection of this connector, make sure you can hear it snap into place. 19. If you want to confirm that the ECT sensor is functioning properly. Then get a candy thermometer and put it into the expansion tank with the cap off. Run the engine until it reaches 200 degrees F. Then turn off the engine, disconnect the ECT sensor connector and measure the resistance between the two contacts in the sensorâ€™s pigtail. It should read about 200 ohms (which is NOT a low enough resistance to turn on the fans). Normal boiling point of water (212/100) will register about 180 ohms. The ECM is waiting for the ECT sensor to indicate resistance levels below about 160 ohms. 20. For further confirmation of ECM operation but possibly a bad ECT sensor, do the following. a. Warm the engine to operating temperature and then turn it completely OFF. We are doing this to make sure the engine starts easily using a lean fuel mixture. b. Reset the residuals (as above) c. Locate or acquire two INSULATED alligator clip jumpers and a 150 Ohm resistor from an electronics hobby store. d. Disconnect the ECT sensor connector. e. On the connector end going to the ECM, put the two jumpers on the pins making sure they donâ€™t contact each other. f. Put the other ends of the jumpers on each side of the 150 Ohm resistor. g. The resistor will now be pretending to be an ECT sensor thermistor that indicates a hot engine. h. Make sure that the 150 Ohm resistor is not touching anything metal and will remain so when the engine is started. i. Start the engine. The fan relay should energize and spin a fan motor. The engine temperature gauge should be reading hotter than the 3 oâ€™clock position. 21. You can experiment with other resistances (never below 100 Ohms) to verify that the high fan speed kicks in, but this is usually unwarranted. 22. If the ECM operates the fans when you bypass the ECT sensor with a resistor as above, then replace the ECT sensor. Make sure to keep the ECT sensor connector protected from the coolant loss you may experience when you remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing (in order to get easy access to the ECT sensor). 23. When you restart the car, make sure to top off the coolant (50/50 mix, not water). Remember that the system must be hot and pressurized in order for the ECM to turn on the fan.
1998 V70 Base. I use a Mityvac brake bleed "gun"; worked well on my other car last weekend so time to do it on the V70 yesterday. Left front brake went well, out with the old, saw the new color in the Mityvac reservoir. Left back brake had a bunch of air bubbles in the line; right back brake pulled out a little under 1/4 cup of old fluid then nothing but air. Kept at it for some time (2-5 minutes?) and nothing but air.
don't know why this is. No leakage that I can see on the ground; only top off in the main reservoir is when I pull old fluid out during the bleed. Does this indicate a caliper rebuild? Just replace the flexible brake line at the back? Any ideas?
In the last few days my volvo wont lock on the remote without the alarm system activating. the symptoms were the hazard lights starting to flash after a few minutes. I read up on line and the most common cause was the rechargeable battery in the siren dying and not charging. I have the 2000 v70, so its the older phase 1 alarm. this is nice and easy, just remove the wheel well liner (about 5 rivets and 2 nuts) undo 2 10mm spanner bolts, unplug the alarm unit, take it out, remove 2 more bolts and 4 screws and you are inside the siren, there is the battery sitting there. the battery is a 4.8V 600mah ni cad battery made up from 4 AA cells, and just plugs into the circuit board, easy, I just bought some new rechargeable cells and built a new battery pack, the old battery was well dead, reading - 0.11 volts - the battery had reversed polarity. fitted the new battery pack, and re-rivetted the wheel trim back, no joy, the hazards are still triggering after a few minutes. The good part is that if you lock the doors just using the key, rather than using the fob to lock, the central locking still works, but the alarm system isnt set, so doesnt go off, so I can still lock the car. Any ideas? Grendel
had my MOT test this morning and it passed first time, just 2 advisories, a small amount of oil near the filter, and noisy power steering at full lock. the first will be cured at the next oil change, and the second was cured as I had already asked them to flush the power steering and refill. General comment was no signs of rust underneath and generally very good condition, I was quite happy to part with the £100 - £ 50 MOT fee and £50 for the power steering checkup and flush. when I point out that in the year I have had this car it has done 30,000 miles, I think you will agree this is good going. The only preparation I did before the test was to replace the burnt out number plate bulb, preventive maintenance earlier this year was replacing the rear brake discs and pads, and shoes. Grendel
Hi, I have recently purchased a 99 V70 GLT Turbo with 149,000 miles. The night after purchase, the flashing arrow came on, first red, then orange. It didn't want to shift smoothly but did shift. It then continued to drive with no problems and the light went off. When I've put the car in reverse, it shakes. Yesterday, I put it in reverse and nothing happened. NO reverse.
It ended up that the reverse has started working again, for the moment. Here are the service codes:
P0751 - Shift solenoid A Performance or stuck off P0756 - Shift solenoid B Performance or stuck off P1618 - No DTC Definition found. See service manual. ????????? Freq. Reported Fix - 1. Programmed Transmission Control Module P0442 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (Small leak) P1238 - No DTC Definition found. Reported fix: Replaced mass air flow sensor Also reported fix: Replaced intake air temperature sensor 2. Connected intercooler hose
I have to take it back to the transmission shop next week... Anyone have any suggestions as to what I'm looking at here for repairs?
Hi, Helping out a friend who just bought the car. He bought it with a hard start problem. The car would start hard but then run fine. Now the car will not start at all. It cranks, and once in a while sound like it fires, but will not start. Checked spark, good on all cylinders Pulled injectors, have good spray pattern on all. Fuel pressure is a tad over 55. Only code the OBD2 shows is turbo control valve. That obviously needs to be addressed, but would not likely cause the car to not start, right?
So if we have fuel, and we have spark, and we are not throwing codes with sensors or anything like that, what else could it be? The PO said that it needed a starter, but it is cranking just fine, so I doubt he knew what he was talking about.
One thing that I want to check but am not currently able to is if the system is holding pressure after the car is shut off, because I just don't have the right adapter for my gauge. But even a leaking fuel pressure regulator would cause a hard start but not a no start condition, I would think.
Just ordered a new set of discs, pads and shoes to replace the old discs on the back end of my V70, they had started making a noise and when I checked the disc looked like an old vinyl record it had that many grooves. I ordered the parts yesterday from partsforvolvosonline (here in the UK), on a 2-4 day delivery, and was quite pleased when they arrived less than 24 hours after placing the order. So it looks like I will be busy over the weekend replacing my rear discs. pricewise they were competitive, and the parts quality when they arrived was good (I bought mostly their own branded parts, manufactured in Sweden), they don't stock the really cheap aftermarket stuff such as is provided by Halfords and other parts services, and everything I have bought from them in the past has been good quality and lasted well. Grendel
Hey all. I recently inherited a problem: my mother-in-law's V70 will not crank via key. Simple as that. It's not the one registered in my Garage (gave that little turbo jewel to sister-in-law).
History: was parked at a restaurant and shut off. Upon return, car would not crank. Battery was new. I swapped starter relay out with a known good relay; no change. I then ran a jumper wire from battery hot to the solenoid signal wire. Car cranked healthily but with key in "run" position would then not fire. I hate being a parts changer, but as this model is no stranger to failed PNP switches, I replaced it. Again, no change. No shocker here, there are no OBDII codes. Her mechanic is trying to con her into a timing belt change
My gut says this is a bad ignition switch, but I cannot rule out that there is a possible security system problem. What suggestions do you have for further testing? I have jumper wires, a test light, an UltraGauge, and a fairly cheap multimeter with which I can check stuff, but no advanced scopes.
Hey guys, hopefully someone can shed some light on this. I searched everything I could, but still have the pesky problem. Car is 1998 V70 2.4 Code is 1308 which is usually the accelerometer module on the front subframe. From what I understand, those are rare to fail, although they do sometimes. The part being expensive, I got a few used ones from a junk yard. 5, to be exact. Don't know if its just me, but I doubt I found 5 bad sensors. Anyone had this problem? Actually get it resolved? Its frustrating since it runs very well, and I need to smog it to register it (car was given to me dead, and has been resurrected). I understand this can be an AC issue sometimes as well, but I am a little lost as to what exactly. Theres only 3 sensors/switches on the AC lines, low pressure line by the firewall, thermal on the compressor itself, and one by the condenser.
The car is a 1999 XC-70. It now has 9" headlight wiper blades, which look just right when parked, but when they are vertical, it looks as though they will go right over the front of the hood. Do I want the shorter 5" blades? From what I can determine online, the 9" blades should be correct. Can anyone please clear this up for me? Thanks!
After 3 trips to my Dealer, approximately 140 miles driven, 4 hrs of internet study, and over 5 days, I now have the part numbers to get this job done close to factory.
This is what I started the project with, the insulators just crumbled inside the housing so the wire/terminal ends were loose, and fell out.
Now for the new,
Cooling Fan Relay (Volvo Part Number 9442933). Price range from $50.00US-$70.00US.
Grey, middle, 2 pole connector Housing $1.50US ea.(Socket Housing, Volvo Part Number 9144275).
I asked for the female end terminals and the weatherproof insulators.... This is what I got from Volvo (These parts get confusing, even for a good dealer).
They aren't even close!
After I looked for a cross reference (Volvo part Number 1307048) I found the complete package for Volvo Penta Marine engines in Europe. Since I'm uninterested in spending a small fortune on shipping and waiting 2 to 4 weeks, I called my dealer and sent them pictures of what I had found. after approximately 15 min, they found that the parts were now available in a repair kit $8US ea. (Electric Cable, Volvo Part Number 3523813-8)
Tomorrow I will solder and cover with heat shrink inline for the final fix. I hope this saves someone, some time. If someone out there has the individual part numbers for the 3.5mm bullet end terminals, and insulators, please add those, thanks.
I just bought a 1999 Volvo S70 with 5-speed manual. It only had 70,000 kms (44,000 mi.) on it, and I paid $5,800 CAD ($4,640 USD). Did I get ripped off with this deal? The car is like new. Also, what are the common problem areas with this car?
The Immediate Problem (that I see happening again in the future, so I would like to head it off at the pass):
1)-I unplugged the 2 pole male connector from my cooling fan relay (middle plug of three) and the housing fell apart, and the insulators inside fell away. The male 2 pole connector that plugs into my ECT Sensor (Coolant temp sensor) also did the same thing. At the age of my Volvo (1998 V70 non-turbo wagon) I know other connectors are in the same shape and will most likely surprise me in the same way.
2)-I got on the internet to look up the parts with the only identifying number I could find: STD 7614.31 What I found after 2hrs (I am more mechanical than E-media-technical, I admit), suppliers of weather proof housing connectors not related to Volvo and a site dedicated to 1990 Volvo's and below that was fantastic for them.
3)-On Volvo parts pages I found connector shells that are poorly described and no parts for the housings. When I call my local Dealer (very fair and usually gets parts quick for me) he says "just bring in the pieces and we will try and match them up". BUT, My Dealer is a one hour drive with a lot of stop and go driving that will take a total of two and a half hours of my day, and four gallons of fuel (104 miles round trip) for a couple of plastic bits.
I have noticed of course, that when I need a relay, most systems are user friendly, and the relay can even be found by the system it supports, but NOT engine loom connectors. Has anyone else tried to crack this apparent code? Been frustrated like this? or worse.... am I that bad on E-Searches that it is already done and posted in this forum or another forum?
What I want;
#1 - Ideally, to start off, an already created, organized, and easily identifiable e-list of wearable connectors for my model/year, so I can at least have a part number without having to take a long, seemingly unnecessary road trip to my dealer ONLY for identification purposes (because, inevitably, I will have to make yet another trip back there two days after to pick up the actual part I had to drive down just to identify). I'd rather only make ONE trip, for pick up after phone order, if possible.
Am I asking here for the golden unicorn?? I hope not, but please give me the straight scoop.
#2 - Secondarily, if possible, to be able to order from an e-supplier all wearable factory electrical connector parts, organized in such a way that with a little communication, I can have the piece with a reasonable level of accuracy, and have reasonable shipping options as well. Do sites like this exist (for V70-S70-C70 Volvos)??
If none of this exists, then I was thinking that.... If the information can be put together by pieces on a loom system or even one piece at a time by this forum and then organized so as to have easy access by anyone at anytime, with either actual part numbers (Volvo, or manufacturer) and cross referenced to the system or sensor, etc. they support, it would greatly help in keeping our aging Volvo's running well with proper pieces intact. For those that have experience in this kind of organized effort (I am not, but willing to try), how can this be done? Input?
Can anyone help? I have a mysterious intermittent problem with the Electronic Climate Control (ECC) in my ’99 XC-70. Sometimes it works perfectly, and sometimes the blower comes on for a few seconds, and then shuts off and I get two flashing red lights. The problem does not seem to have any relationship to ambient air temperature. If it is working, it seems more likely to work the next time after shutting the car down if I leave the a/c turned on before switching the ignition off. But not always. Since it works perfectly sometimes, I cannot see that there can be anything wrong with the compressor, etc. Could it be something in the ECC in-dash control unit? There seem to be a number available on eBay for reasonable prices. Would you suggest that I just replace the ECC in-dash control unit and see what happens?
a 98 s70 volvo that i've just done major repair work on (replacing all hoses, replacing mass air flow sensor, etc) and now the car is making a loud whirring sound when i start the engine and am driving. Sounds like it could potentially be a fan. The car is also overdue for an oil change but i don't think that's related. Anybody have any ideas as to what this could be. ----------------- 100% d'origine lancement launch CReader Professional 129 CRP129 peut réinitialiser bloc de frein, Capteur d'angle de braquage corect, Réinitialisation de la lumière de l'huile moteur
Hi I have a 2000 v70r awd my steering rack just went ..was wondering if a steering rack out of 2000 cross country awd work for me as well as the angel gear are that compatible. .. Thanks for any help or info
05-22-2014 08:22 PM by pollockplace Just picked up a 99 v70 glt turbo. Was just given the car a couple days ago since the old owner went and bought a New 2005 v70 that was maintained by the dealer in and out.
The 99 v70 is now in my possession at my place and from what I was told, coolant was not lasting past a day. Once coolant was topped off at the reservoir, by the end of the day, zero coolant in the expansion tank, all leaking from behind the motor and to make matters worse, the v70 was drove while low on coolant and somehow blew oil everywhere (which looks like it came out of the pcv under the plastic valve cover) and now, wont start. I have researched this issue and I'm trying to determine if either A): I have a hose leaking coolant out or : A blown head gasket.
Thought about a compression test first thing when I'm able to and figured I could get a head start with knowledge on this issue before I get started and put as many of my not so many hours I have into this first go and what steps should be taken.
Thank you. Hope to hear something soon! Christopher
Well I got a new to me V70, it has 97,000 on the clock and runs like a dream. The only issue I have had with it is a P1672 code from the ODB puts on the engine check light. The car seems to run exactly as it had before the code. The trouble is that the only thing I can find out about the code is that it is either a +5V bus system undervolts warning - or that it is a continually variable valve timing warning. now here is the silly part - if I top the oil up to the top level on the dipstick the warning doesn't come up, could I be looking at a slight oil pressure drop causing the problem with the CVVT. if the level drops below the top X on the dipstick then I can get the warning light up. I suppose I can just keep an eye on the oil level and keep it topped up. I don't know when the oil was last changed, but it looks clean and fresh, with no particles in it by feel (first thing I checked when looking at the car). there was a suggestion that it may just be an electrical connection on the CVVT circuit, but I cant find the article again to check back. any ideas? Grendel
I have a 1999 Volvo V70 XC. I converted the battery tray to mount an AGM battery in place of the small battery that Volvo calls for. These cars run better with more available electric power.
After putting in the AGM battery, I upgraded the alternator from the clutch driven 120 amp to the 140 amp without clutch, 28FEB2013. I had been told that this was not possible, too its not worth paying for a custom alternator, no upgrade is listed for that year and model, etc. So I studied diagrams of alternators looking for one that met the dimensions for this upgrade.
AGM batteries hold a slightly higher level of charge for a longer period of time and are resistant to vibration and elements better than lead- acid types, and if your doing a re-locate on your battery, they can be mounted anyway you need them to conserve space. The down side to the AGM is the need to charge them at a higher amp rate. the need for the higher amp alternator, or if you just wanted to do this without getting ripped off and spending the same amount as the 120 amp, with no modification, this is for you.
I wanted sufficient time before confirming this. 1 trip from WA to FL and approx 1000 miles a month, I'm happy to report zero problems.
This is the alt performance sheet that came with the new (not rebuilt) alt.
The Bosch numbers for this conversion are:
$195.49, shipping included, for new. Just a reminder, if you buy new you don't pay for core charge and don't have to worry about shipping the old one back.
The cross reference is for these Volvo models. If you want to keep the clutch pulley, they swap, but I'm running my without the clutch now and its great.
2003-2004 XC 90, 2.9L 1999-2004 S80, 2.8L, 2.9L
This is the best kept secret out there for upgrading. The dimensions for the 160 amp is the same as well for the same years roughly, but I have not proved that through actual on road use, just the 140 amp.
I have a 2003 V70 with about 140,000 miles on it. I have owned it 3 years now- I bought it from a family friend and understood the whole history of it.
Recently while driving I noticed that a weird noise would be coming from the engine, especially when I turned right. The worst happened and my engine died on me. As I was turning the car shut down- I put it into park and tried restarting it only to have the engine shake and shut down again. It would not remain on and I would not get it to move.
So- I had it towed and looked at by a large Ford dealership that said they would look my Volvo (I recently moved and the closest Volvo dealership is about 3 hours away) . The diagnostics suggested it was the Fuel Pump Sensor- I had it fixed and they claimed it was fine. I understand that was a recall piece. I went to pick it up and it stalled right in the parking lot! They evaluated it more and said it was the fuel pump. They replaced it but said they were unable to get it running. 16 days later they came to the conclusion that it was the throttle body and that it needed cleaning. They said it was running fine. I went to go pick it up and after I put the keys in the ignition and turned within 5 seconds the front of the car shook and it shut down on me. They called me today and said it was running fine again.
Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I have invested a lot of money into these new parts and it does not seem to solve the problem. I have not had any issues prior and was good with regular maintenance. It is strange that it will run for a few seconds, then shake and die down. I really love this car and I do not want to let it go! I am also worried that if I bring it back home it might randomly stall on me.
Have rencently have had the engine management light come on. Took the car to garage for code reading, however, we werent given any code, just a print out giving a fault diagnosis, which says air intake temperature fault. We have also been getting infrequent problems with starting and stalling straight away, and then starting normally straight away. We have now had a few occassions where the car will start but run very rough as though not firing correctly on all 5 cylinders, this is resolved by a simple spray of WD40 around the MAF sensor and distributer cap. Could this be the MAF sensor needing to be replaced and would that be the Siemens number mentioned above. If this is the case where could we purchase it from as we cannot find one on the internet we seem able to find Bosch but nothing that resembles the one fitted.