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Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.
Next remove the Air filter housing.
The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood. Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.
Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off) Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.
Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.
Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines) Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster. Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.
That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.
Inside the car:
Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side. Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.
Now go back outside:
Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side. Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.
Then install in reverse order.
It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.
Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.
Another weird quick of this recently-acquired 2003 XC70: It's become virtually impossible to fill up the gas tank. The gas foams up the inlet and shuts off the pump about every 1/3 of a gallon.
I noticed this the first time I filled it up for my mother. That time, it was tricky; you had to get the nozzle in just right. Today, no amount of changing the nozzle angle or depth helped at all, so it seems to be getting worse.
I've never heard of this problem before. Any ideas? Is some vent plugged up?
My mother bought my sister's 2003 Volvo XC70 AWD, and it's developed a problem of draining the battery when not driven for a few days. I'm a professional electronics tech, so I ran some tests. I've worked on cars for years, but mostly back when they were less electronically complicated than they are now.
The system is charging at 14.5V with the engine running. The battery was not date-marked on installation, so I have no idea how old it is. The cells have plenty of water in them.
I charged the battery overnight last night, using an automatic charger, and when I went to disconnect it this morning, the current meter on the charger was bouncing slightly close to zero. After disconnecting the charger, I disconnected the negative battery terminal and put an ammeter between negative and battery. (All doors were closed.) I got an odd reading. The system would draw very little current for a couple of seconds, then pulse up to 200mA for a few seconds, then drop to a very low current reading. The pulses are about 1 pulse per second, maybe a little faster. This pattern repeats consistently over and over.
There are also some weird readouts from the dashboard computer. A few times when I've driven the car, I noticed that the readout was just a bunch of random, constantly changing nonsense. The last time the battery was dead, I charged the battery overnight. When I drove it that day, I noticed that the computer readout was working properly. The same thing was true today; after overnight charging, the computer readout was normal.
I am going to have the battery tested, but I was wondering if anyone has seen something like this before. My family has had GM cars for years, so I'm familiar with their quirks, but not with Volvos. Are there any known issues with XC70s at this point in their lives that can cause battery drain?
My 2002 V70 D5 SE is displaying a series of weird dash issues. I've read the thread about this on this forum but the symptoms my car is displaying don't quite match. Some are there but others aren't as bad. There's clearly a problem and, due to language and cost, I need to get this fixed when I'm next back in the UK so I need to get as much intelligence as I can to help the electrical engineer who'll be trying to fix it. These are the symptoms...
1) The blue light on the dash to show that high beam is on only comes on intermittently. 2) When starting the car, the mileage on T1 resets to 0.0, the DIM flags up "Service needed", then, when the engine fires, the "Service needed" message goes away and T1 goes back to the original, correct figure. 3) Every now and then the clock starts to timewarp by running forwards very fast. 4) I've noticed that when raising the driver's window, it gets about 1/3 way then starts going down again. On lifting the switch again, it goes all the way up. I'm wondering if this is related to the other anomalies being displayed.
I understand that others have had more serious issues such as total power loss, garbled messages on the DIM and indicator loss (at least on the dash, they work on the car). I think I'm lucky that I've had none of these. I spoke to Revtronic in the UK and they hadn't heard of my car's symptoms but said that it's probably on its way to bigger failure as others have experienced and that I should just ignore it until this happens. So I'm wondering, if anyone's experienced the total loss of dash and instruments, did it happen suddenly or did the faults build up to it?
From looking at the other very useful posts here, I've eliminated the Voltage Regulator L4925N because everything including the message on the DIM lights up correctly. It would appear however that some of the above can be corrected by 'reflowing' the Motorola Chip and, while the dash is out, checking/resoldering all other connections. I'm wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time.
One other thing, on several occasions (and reliably at two petrol stations) after filling the car up the T1 has reset to 0.0 when I press the button but after a few seconds, beeps then goes back to the original number. This happens until I'm a good km or so away from the filling station. Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, is it interference from some kind of radio frequency at the stations messing up the trip computer on my car or is it related to the above.
I really would appreciate any advice. Basically I'm expecting to have to look at the now famous "Budulan" technique to fix it and I'm wondering if this would suffice for these issues or whether something more serious is afoot.
Driving my granddaughter to school this morning, and the little red triangle popped on and 'Low Battery Voltage' appeared in the message window.
Got her to school OK and on arrival, turned the engine off and immediately restarted - no message.
Was at the school for maybe 20 mins, started the car - no message.... 4 miles down the road, up it pops again. Stopped for petrol, started the car - no message.... once again, 4 miles along and it pops up again.
During all this all the electrics seem to function as they should but I did try and shut off everything I could, including turning the light to sidelights.
When I arrived home I left the car running and metered the battery 14-15 volts - turned it off and metered it again - same. Did three false starts to try and drain some juice out of the battery, same meter reading.
2001 V70 suddenly stopped. Had to tow it back home. No prior indication of any issue with transmission. Engine runs fine, but no engine "power" to the wheels. Slight grinding noise at idle. Substantial crunching noise when shifting back from the non-functional gears (R,N,D,4,3,L) to "P". Mechanic (over the phone)says this may NOT be a catastrophic transmission failure (something still undiagnosed, but less expensive to fix). Drained the transmission fluid (about 4 liters came out), which was reddish-brown. Please give me your thoughts as to what may be wrong with this car/transmission, and whether it is worth fixing (e.g. upfront cost of the repair, reliability later on).
I've got an '05 V70 with 105K on it, and have had it for a few years now. A previous owner apparently hit a curb or pothole hard enough to ding the RF wheel. I replaced the wheel and didn't think too much about it. Much later, when I had it aligned, I discovered that the RF wheel had been pushed back about 3/4". The shop got the toe, camber, and "steer ahead" right on spec, but the caster was 4.1 degrees on the left side (correct) and only 1.8 degrees on the right (way out of spec). It drives okay except it has a slight pull to the right.
Now with over 100K on it, I need to replace the control arm bushings, shocks, and tires (Michelins worn out after only 26K). I want to get the right front corrected while I'm at it. My local Volvo mechanic recommended taking it to a good alignment shop, loosening up the subframe bolts and pulling the right side forward, then tightening it down again. He says he saw no obvious sign of damage to the subframe or suspension bits while underneath the car.
I'm wondering if the control arm, strut, or something else might have been bent. I can't see any obvious signs of damage, though. Anybody got any thoughts on this?
When in Reverse or, when in Neutral and rolling backwards down a hill, the car will suddenly jerk (hang up), make a clunking sound and then release and continue in reverse. This happens about 1 in 8 to 12 times so it is difficult to repeat for diagnosis. My local shop said it was the worn front wishbones so they were replaced. It still does it. Brakes, emergency brake, suspension were all checked and OK. Software was upgraded around a year ago. What could it be?
Engine: 2.5L 5 cyls VIN: YV1SZ59H431099693 Transmission: Automatic 5-Speed Odometer: 104,000 mi. Body Style: XC70 AWD Station Wagon (4 Door)
We've recently had a service on our 2001 V70, oil, filters, plugs etc... and since then there's a message in the text bit of the dash saying "Engine System Service Required" and the cruise control has stopped working. There was also a "Service Required" light, but i got rid of that with the on/off press trip button thing.
There's no red or orange light on the dash and the message come's and goes... but the cruise control never works. (press the button but no CRUISE appears on the dash where it used to..
Now it get's weird....
I took it back to the garage (not a Volvo one) and they plugged in a computer and looked to find the error code .. but there isn't one they cleared the Error memory anyway and then tried car but Engine System Service Required .. Looked in memory, still no code..... they then looked in an other part of the car's memory (sorry for being vague!) and there was nothing there either.
Car off and back on ... no message ... car off and back on .. message ... and the CControl never works.
Their answer now is that there's nothing in the service that could have caused the problem and the say i need to take it to a Volve Garage - spending more money!!
Must add again, cos all the advice seems to centre around this ... there's no "Engine service" light on the dash. just the message....
Thanks for reading ... will be interested to see what the experts here make of it!!!
I thought everyone could use this. The following website has service and repair diagrams (free online) for nearly every part of your Volvo vehicle. Fair warning: some information contained herein appears as high-level details and is not intended to replace a much better, black-n-white printed service manual book. See http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php.
So about 5 mins from home today got the "OVER VOLTAGE PULL OVER" message today on the dash.. warning lights on the dash etc. Just before this happened I notice my ac was not cold. Made it home and left the car sit for about 2 hrs. Went back out and the message is gone. Took the car for a quick driver and everything seems ok, execpt the ac blew cold then nothing but warm air. Now the a/c compressor is new less than six months old and I know the over voltage is probably caused by my voltage regulator on its way out ( I think) I did pick up a voltage regulator. So is the voltage regulator on its way out or just got overloaded and does the ac compressor need to be checked.
I am buying a 2005 XC70 AWD from a dealer who had sold the car originally. It has just under 88K miles on it, and its two previous owners had it dealer-serviced, pretty much. The dealer has now replaced the brakes and put on 4 new tires, as well as the routine maintenance like lube, oil, etc. Also a software update. It really seems like a new car -- clean and shiny. I know dealers can pretty up used cars, but this one is really perfect in appearance.
So, do I need to spend $2000+ on an extended warranty from Volvo for the next 2 years? I am sure I would have spent at least that much to keep my beloved 1992 960 wagon on the road, which is now retiring, but can I assume this 2005 will be that needy, this young?
The dealer trying to sell me the warranty points out that this one has a lot more complicated high-tech parts that are expensive to deal with.
I am probably paying over book for the car as it is, don't want to waste any additional -- hope people can offer some advice on how likely this model is to break! Thanks!
I've had a few jobs done on my 2002 V70 D5 SE recently including new clutch, new front tyres + geometry and bottom engine mount which cleared up a number of issues I've been having with the car. In the background of all these, I've had a few dash problems which I've posted elsewhere and which I'm going to get fixed by sending the dash off to a repairer (any recommendations of a good one in the UK would be appreciated if anyone has any). These include; Clock timewarps, High Beam lamp on dash only working intermittently, spurious DIM messages - currently "Engine repair requested" and "Regular service needed" (it's a French car so I'm translating them to English). I've always assumed that these were just strange messages caused by the dash soldering issues. Today I took the car out for its first proper run since having the engine mounts done and when I reached the motorway, flicked on the Cruise Control as normal but nothing happened. No 'cruise' message on the dash and no cruise engaged. Could this be related to the dash issues and is it likely to be fixed when the dash is repaired? The dash faults seem to be a bit different to most but I'm hoping sending it off to a repairer will put all theses to bed.
EDIT: I've just been out to test a few things and it seems that starting the engine with the clutch pressed prevents the 'Engine repair requested' message being displayed and 'Cruise' will come up on the dash when I press the button so I'm guessing it's clutch related and not dodgy dash soldering related. Could this be the clutch position sensor? Is this a big job if it is? Typically, it's a bank holiday here today and the garage is closed for annual holidays for 10 days. Should I take the car off the road for this time? I guess I could remove the dash and send that off while I wait.
Have to change the front engine mount. I did see the video that FCP have, but that is based on a 850 and he is able to pull the mount out the top of the engine. Now after looking at mine there will be a lot of hoses wiring etc that will have to be moved to be able to pull it out through the top. If I jack the engine up high enough would I be able to pull it out through the bottom of the engine ?
When i drive i do notice a kind of weird noise from when i accelerate like theres fluid somewhere but only at certain rpms i believe. I dont notice anything bad but it just sounds strange. It seems like it is from the turbo could i maybe use this to help things? http://www.vivaperformance.com/tcv-in-line-filter/
And im going to add in a boost mount gauge. So i can tell all the time what i am boosting but as of right now i am at 12-13psi. I added a boost controller for $50 in. and i believe it increased my boost but i dont notice it getting any higher when i mess with it, could it be at a certain point that may be stopping it from getting higher?
Thanks for any feedback guys. Sorry about all the questions and links!
RE: '01 V70 T5....My lower control arm bushings and front strut/spring assembly seats need to be replaced. Does this repair require the engine to be raised or lifted up? If so, it occured to me that if the engine is raised I might as well replace the engine torque mounts.
I found about 4 to 5 inches of standing water in the pass. side, rear corner behind the tail lights. There was even water up inside the tail lights! This doesnt seem like a good thing to me, so can anyone tell me what I should do to fix the drainage problem? Or where its coming in?
Thanks for any help or insight!
This is the corner: [attachment=7356:IMG_8836.JPG]
I have a problem very similar to others posted here, but a bit different. Any help or advice would be great.
PROBLEM: When the a/c compressor is engaged, it causes the front vents to close completely. All the airflow is directed up in the dash somewhere - sounds like it's primarily behind the glove box. When the a/c compressor is turned off, the front vents immediately reopen.
Based on knowledge learned here, I tried replacing the temp sensor that is located on the drivers side center panel. It had absolutely no effect.
HERE'S THE BIG CLUE I THINK: The vent malfunction is somehow tied to the OUTSIDE temperature. If the outside temp is relatively cool i.e. 70 the a/c performs fine. Once the outside temp hits about 80 degrees, the problem is guaranteed to appear.
It makes me think that there must be another temp sensor, an outside temp sensor involved. But that's only a guess based on the symptoms.
Could it be in the front console control unit?
Any thoughts or possible fixes would be much appreciated as summer is fast approaching and Central Florida is no place to be without good a/c.
Also, last year the local dealership kept the car overnight working on a computer update fix. They called to say it was fixed, and I was literally a block down the street when the vents shut off! Needless to say, I was bummed.
Thanks again you guys, I've learned so much here already --- really hope I can learn to correct this problem too.
We have a 2001 V70T and when the car is turned to the left, the blower (fan/ac) loses power or there is a great reduction in fan speed. Once the wheels are back in alignment, the fan acts normal again. Slight turning has less of an effect compared to a hard turn. The belts and fluids have recently been checked so......
Any one else experienced this or know what might be the cause?
My parents just bought a 2002 XC70. The remote TX wasn't working and the dealer said it would just be a battery. I replaced the battery but still no luck. Occasionally, though not always, the indicators flash 25 times in response to pressing the lock button. Nothing else happens with the car locked or unlocked. Anyone any guess as to what's going on?
I read elsewhere that new TX's can be programmed by switching the ignition 5 times. I've used the same procedure successfully on magna's. Can anyone confirm if this method is valid for the 2002 XC70? I've tried it but doesn't seem to have had any effect. Is there any dash indication with this method?
My transmitter is 5 button with yellow interior and red panic buttons and is marked as type:P2T-APU.
My 2007 V70 keeps telling me that the latch is open and the courtesy light in the back of the car stays on. I think I need to replace the latch that you squeeze to open the tailgate. Has anyone had this issue and was able to fix it?
I am a Volvo wagon owner (86 760, 94 850, 01 V70, and 07 xc 70). All turbowagons and I currently have the 01 (345K) and the "new" xc (170K) on the road. I have always appreciated the fine winter characteristics of the rear and front wheel drive wagons, so I was thrilled to step up to the xc AWD version. With new snows I thought I could go anywhere. How wrong I was.
I live in a snowy/wintry area of Ontario and am well experienced with winter driving. The AWD xc70 has bogged down in deep or slushy snow or ice where any 4 wheel drive would idle through. I think my front wheel drive wagon is actually better. The DSTC system wants to shuttle power from a spinning wheel to one with better traction. If they all want to spin it doesn't seem to know what to do. In any case it appears that the rear wheels never seem to get power. Even when I turn the DSTC off only the front will spin, again the rears have never broken traction, nor seem to do any pushing. FYI I am trying to make the wheels lose traction to see what is happening. There doesn't appear to be any mechanism to 'lock up' even one axle like a 4 wd system.
Is there any electronic adjustment for this that changes how the power is distributed? I still love my Volvos but it would be nice to have real traction in the winter. Thanks.
My mechanic, wo is no expert but replaces parts tells me my 2002 V70 T5 needs new motor mounts. He says they are "destroyed". Car has 65000 miles. I asked him how many and he does not know. Well if I'm going to replace a motor mount I would replace them all and make sure. Question is, how many motor mounts does a V70 need? What types are they?
I wold appreciate knowing this before a call auto parts.
Hi all, my parents just bought a 2002 XC70. I've always done their servicing but never dealt with Volvo. Just coming to grips with why people avoid Volvo's. In my enthusiasm I've made a classic newbie mistake and now have annoying SRS Airbag Fault I need to reset. I need advice.
1. Can anyone recommend independent Volvo auto electrician or service centres north of Brisbane or Caboolture, QLD, Australia.
2. Any other volvo owners around Brissy with a Vida Dice ECM tool. I'm looking at the ones on ebay and would like to know if they work. If anyone locally has one I would be willing to pay for Airbag reset.
3. Anyone used an ebay dice to reprogram keys or fobs. Would help pay for it pretty quickly if it works.
4. Anyone recommend a Vida & Dice seller on ebay or elsewhere?
Hi Has anyone experience of disassembling and refitting the passenger door locking assembly. Scenario - small, hardly noticeable dent from gate bashing onto door handle. Solution, I thought, remove handle push out dent refit. Oh nooo. Dent removed but the bent metal bar which activates the lock by using the handle will not allow easy refit of handle. Played with it for 4 hours and cannot get the handle to sit correctly in the frame. The outer part of the handle sits nicely in the door but the actual handle sticks out. Looking at the parts none seems to be distorted/bent other than it ought to be. key pad lock works fine but now the handle will not operate the lock. It is virtually impossible to push the bent bar into the clip on the lock once the handle is in place. Further the rubber seal falls off as you try to refit the plate and handle. Next time I shall glue it onto the handle back plate. Oh and of course a nut drops down into the bottom of the door and jams there. Time with telescopic magnet and screwdriver all no good. Only a 10mm so I had a replacement. I took the machine screws out from the lock to give some looseness that helped. I have worked on Volvos for 27 years and this is the worst for me. Q. Is it simply changing the position of the bent bar in the speed clip? This has been replaced exactly in the original position. My garage says they will take a look at it for me but I bet they will have the same issues. other than buying a new bar and handle has anyone any ideas? It is driving me nuts! Wish I had left it dented. Huh 45 min job I thought. Thanks
Thinking I'm well overdue to replace the thermostat in my wife's 2004 V70 2.4. I looked up the part on eEuroparts (as well as a few other places) expecting to find the $15-20 part and instead all I see is a $100+ assembly. Does anybody know if it's possible to replace just the thermostat itself or is there a reason that the whole assembly needs to be replaced? If so where do I get the replacement thermostat?
Thanks and apologies in advance if this topic has been covered, but I couldn't find anything on a search.
hi ive never had a problem with my v70 till today. i picked up the kids from school but when i went to get back in the car it wouldnt start, the auxillary worked but no ignition and no power, just nothing. just a warning sign saying start prevented try again! i think it may have something to do with the icolater with it having no power at all. ive tried changing the battery in the fob which somebody suggested, and nothing. the car still locks and unlocks. when i got out of the car i used what i call the dog guard, am not sure of its proper name! the bit that makes the sensors not work inside the car so that my dog dousnt set the alarm off. i do this regular and never had this problem. is there any suggestions anyone can give to to check, ive rang around a few garages and nobody can help me, they all tell me to take it to a main volvo dealer, which is miles away and also people have told me that i cant tow an automatic! is this right and if it is why? please help me any suggestions will be tried thanks for reading this karen
Noticed that when I'm accelerating on the freeway my check engine light would flash. And I took my car in for new Brakes and they ran the codes and one was for overboosting. And another was for a missfire in cylinder 4. Now I bought a 4 set not knowing of ngk platinums that I need 5. But I've read that iridiums are Better and coppers are better. Which one should I use? It's a 2003 Volvo v70 2.4t. With a cold air intake, boost controller installed. And I'm currently boosting around 13 psi. What plugs and gap should I do?
I think I posted this in the wrong forum. It is my first post, so I apologize...
I have a 2003 V70 Wagon and the DIM has gone out. Yesterday, my son-in-law's Father (who used to own a Volvo dealership) ran some tests and confirmed that power was coming into the unit, so it likely needs to be fixed or replaced. After weighing my options, I have decided to ship the unit off to be repaired which will leave me without it for a week. My problem is, when I disconnect the DIM from the connector, I have no power windows, turn signals, brake lights, and who knows what else I haven't discovered. Is there a way to override what appears to be an incomplete circuit so I do not make myself a danger on the road for a week? (this is my only vehicle)
[COLOR=blue]Hi- I am new to the forum and I wish it were under a better circumstance. Had our cross country towed last night for the third time in a month. Keep getting an immobilizer alert on the message board. Our service dept at the dealer did replace the antenna ring once but the problem occured again. Got the car back after the second repair and all seemed well but within 4 days the car failed again. Any thoughts??? So frustrating and I'm afraid to take our children out in the vehicle for fear we will all get stuck somewhere. Thanks for any thoughts anyone may have.............
Frequently and randomly the cruise control on this car turns off on its own. The trans has been serviced regularly and the car has 130k miles on it. Is this a red flag for trans issues? Is an easy fix available?
Hello People, I have just had lower control arm bushes delivered for fittment.Vehicle is 2001 v70 XC wgn. They appear different to the originals. The ones I am concerned with are not the ones with the tang type middle section with a threaded hole in each end. The bush I am concerned with is 50mm in diameter with a rubber bush vulcanised to the metal body. The new one supplied has the inner metal sleeve offset in the housing. 5mm sticks out on one side of the bush and 13mm sticks out on the other side. The original bush has the inner section dead centre. Has anyone have knowledge on this issue and can help me out? Thanks
I have found a wealth of information on this subject...seems like this problem is not going away. I will try not to be redundant, and ask if after reading the situation what type of chances you think I have of 'fixing' this instead of putting in a new transmission, which really is not affordable for us and we'd have to scrap the car at a huge loss.
I purchased a 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T 4 days ago from a private party in Los Angeles. I drove it home to Utah, 10 hours drive and it drove great but I got a shift flare from 2-3. I did some research and found the fix for the B4 servo and lower transmission mount. They are both on order from IPD.
Today I drove it to Auto Zone to get some of that Mobil transmission fluid and: 1- check engine light comes on 2- displays transmission service urgent 3- engine revs out and won't go into all gears; I parked it and had it towed back to my house.
With all the expertise out here I'm hoping someone can tell me if it's even 'fixable' now, or if I should just send the parts back and take a huge bath on the purchase. Is the valve body rebuild even an option at this stage I'm in? I feel like I got screwed but at least it didn't break down in the middle of the desert on the 800 mile drive home. I'd REALLY like to get it fixed because I can't do a minivan and how many other 7 seaters get 25 mpg? Budget, however, is the main motivating issue until I can find a new job :-(
PLEASE HELP!!! More important: THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
PS: I also have a BULB POSITION LIGHT FAILURE code, along with a SERVICE ENGINE code, and the cruise control doesn't work. HA! Any fixes for these are greatly appreciated also!
Purchased a 2004 V70 2.5T (118,000+ miles/production date 04-2003/USA) a couple weeks ago. Cleaned a bit on the interior of the car this morning while parked in my driveway... started the car after I finished to make sure I hadn't drained the battery with the interior lights being on... started perfectly. Went out about 2 hours later to make a grocery run... NOTHING. The keyless entry worked, dash lights illuminated, the radio came on... all windows functioned, etc. . I jumped the Volvo off of my mother's Honda Odyssey... STILL NOTHING. I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes, cleaned the terminals... SAME... A WHOLE LOT OF NOTHING. This is my only vehicle. I live in a small town... NO VOLVO DEALERS within 50 miles. (background info of the car... that I know of... the dealer I purchased the car from said he had "lost" the original key to the car... he had to have a new key cut/programmed... also, the dash functions as it should with the exception of the lighting behind the info center/odometer/clock/temp. Everything works... just can't see it easily... and there is no backlight around the radio or the display screen itself... Not sure if this matters or makes a difference.) I really like the car. Traded a very nice 2004 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe for the car. I feel a bit defeated right now. HELP?!?!?!
** Need help REPLACING REAR TAIL LIGHTS, Instruction on how to remove the assembly would be much appreciated I opened the compartment from inside and can see their back side. I'm guessing from the degree of difficulty I hade with replacing the driver side headlight I will need to unbolt the whole assembly and remove to replace bulbs. At this point I'm guessing trim will need removal, I don't want to break anything in process so any help is appreciated. ALSO..if you can provide instruction on front right headlight side marker (right where wiper fluid goes in that would help too, I took the screw out there but still not enough room to remove that bulb..........THANKS
I was curious if anyone has replaced their DEM module before. I own a 2004 xc70 and was told my all wheel drive did not work becuase of the bad DEM module.
I found a company that apparently fixes the DEM and Xenodex Inc and sends it over night. I was hoping people may know about this company and also if they have ever tried removing the DEM module before and what to do
Key won't tun past 1st position. I have removed the cover and was able to start by turning key to first position then used screw driver inserted in ignition switch and turn. I had to also remove the cable from under key lock and slide it to release the console and move it into Drive. Key still won't tun past 1st position. I sprayed some Dupont liquid teflon into lock cylinder and banged lightly with hammer but still cannot turn past one. I assume I will need to replace the whole lock assembly, but the most current posting I've sen is for a 2000 year model & I have a 2006....has there been any changes? also can someoen direct me to resonable place wit hgood price for part. Thanks To All
** Need help REPLACING REAR TAIL LIGHTS, Instruction on how to remove the assembly would be much appreciated. I removed speaker & cover from inside and can see their back side. I'm guessing from the degree of difficulty I hade with replacing the driver side headlight I will need to unbolt the whole assembly and remove to replace bulbs. At this point I'm guessing trim will need removal, I don't want to break anything in process so any help is appreciated. ALSO..if you can provide instruction on [b]front right headlight side markerright where wiper fluid goes in that would help too, I took the screw out there but still not enough room to remove that bulb..........THANKS!!
What needs to be repaired/replaced, front driver end of window driver side dropped when I put it down yesterday, was able to pick up on it and use power window switch to lift up and close but I know it needs something. Any detailed instructions on removing door panel etc....... would be very much appreciated.
I am hoping to find somebody who has replaced their cambelt on a V70 D5 without taking the crankshaft pully off. Haynes says on both petrol and diesel models the 30mm bolt needs to be undone and pully removed to replace the belt. I have used a 1.5m lever arm on the bolt with my wife almost bending the brake pedal with top gear engaged and it still will not budge. I note on U-tube that a subscriber shows that it is possible to thread a new belt behind the crankshaft pully leaving it in place but he did this on a petrol version and he cut the old belt to remove it.
Before taking the drastic step of cutting the belt I would like to know if any forum member has used this technique to replace a belt on a diesel version.
Although the car seemed to be running fine, the CEL came on on my wife's 2004 V70 (2.4l, non-turbo, ~110K miles) a couple of days ago so I read the codes: 4 codes all P0304, meaning misfire on cylinder 4. I got a new coil at the Autozone (Duralast packaging but a German mfgr. "Beru" on the coil itself) and replaced #4 coil she drove for a day, no more CEL, everything seemed fine. That evening on a short trip she lost almost all power, the CEL came back on, and the car had to essentially limp home. This time it said P0303, so cylinder 3 misfire. I bought another coil from Autozone and replaced that one, now after driving a few miles it seems to be fine again. What worries me is how one (likely original) coil would go out after 110K miles than another one would fail the next day. I don't believe this is just a coincidence.
Obviously I'm going to replace all of the coils at this point, but I was wondering if anybody out there had had a similar experience and whether the root cause did (or did not) turn out to be the coil(s) itself or something completely different.
I have no clue what the previous owner used, but ive been reading around kind of and im trying to figure out what kind of oil to use. I noticed this morning my oil was like very very low. And the dipstick itself is already strange. doesnt say full or empty, Just X's. And I put a bottle of synthetic 10w-30 in. And it seems like synthetic is the best either way. But if the previous owner didnt use synthetic will that cause an issue? And Should i maybe use 5w-30 or maybe a different oil? I live in Orange California so it is not too cold, but sometimes hot.
Hi All Just purchased a V70 and i got it with a fault when cold starting initially all dashboard and rev counter indicators and gauges work [ sometimes fuel gauge doesn't} then it completely freezes and goes off leaving no indicators windows or anything on the dash working .
Now if you flick the key on and off a few times it comes on and stays on but with orange light on warning if you start the car when warm it has no issue has anyone else had this problem and if so what was it ?
How do i go about putting in fog lights in the 2003 v70. I purchased 6" LED Strips and i wanted to throw those in the spots. It just looks like a solid piece of plastic Where the fog lights circles are. Do i have to cut the square/circle things out?
And then how hard is it to replace the stock air intake tube and replace it with a new Cold Air Tube? And my engine seems to get really really hot, and the fans stay on after i turn the car off does that seem right? It seems like it gets too hot but it could just be me. The old owner im guessing used 87 octane fuel, and im using 91 octane. And i havent changed the oil out. But im guessing to use synthetic??
And i wanted to install a boost controller. What would the highest safe boost psi be i could set it too? And if i wanted to install a new JDM Universal SEQUENTIAL STAGE 3 2.5" FLANGE TURBOCHARGER TURBO BLACK BOV BLOW OFF VALVE. Would i need to buy something for this?