Volvo-Forums.com -> 2G (2001-2007) V70, V70XC & XC70 Forum

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

Hey there,
New to the forum. Curious if anyone's replaced the upper engine mount on the V70?

I bought the part from Volvo. My father-in-law's long-time Volvo mechanic said the swap was not a problem and no special tools required other than a torx bit.

1) Looks like the cold air intake across the top needs to come out.
2) Then the larger of the two black covers on the top removed
3) loosen the two mounting brackets
4) replace the mount

Any experts out there?

Hi, first post in this forum - had a few in the 940 section, but I've since moved up to something newer - a 2000 V70, manual with the base 2.4 non turbo engine. 140k miles on the clock.

The car has been making a lot of creaks/cracks etc from the driver's side suspension since I got it. The car drives fine, but the noises are pretty loud. You can hear them turning corners, driving straight, going over bumps. The car also "thunks" a bit through the transmission when you move off (gearbox is loaded) - I guessed this was an engine/gearbox mount bush but haven't got that far in my investigations.

Got the wheel off and had a look and saw that the front and rear wishbone bushes were shot, so ordered up new ones.
Got them fitted and re-installed the wishbone back to the car. This was quite difficult as the CV joint kept slipping off the driveshaft (hub end) - seemed like the clip was shot - the joint could turn enough for the balls to fall out. Anyway, with much effort and swearing we got it back on, the argued with the ball joint (which had also failed and we'd replaced) and finally got that on after taking the track rod end off at the bottom end. Getting that end back on was a problem as some of the thread was a bit stripped/corroded, but again more swearing and levering and it was on.

Got the wheels back on and went for a wee drive. Noises were still there.

We stopped the car and rocked it back and forward on the clutch - could see the driveshaft moving a little.

So... does this suggest that a replacement outer CV joint is needed? Could that be the the cause of the "thunk"-ing when loading the transmission/gearbox?

Thanks in advance
Craig

Hi,

XC70 2005 Cross Country

Thank you in advanced. My car has been sputtering, engine sounds like it's been chugging, dropping and rising in rpm (I apologize for poor terminology). I checked the engine and there was a tube broken in between the spout I put oil in and the oil dip stick. The tube has a 1 inch gaping crack in it. It's dry inside, no liquid running through it. Seems like hot air or some gas of some sort. I am not sure.

I found a picture online and have drawn an arrow to the tube below:

Does anyone know what this tube is called? How much, a very rough guess, a replacement cost would be? Is it safe to drive with this tube in this condition?

Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

This evening I was working on my father-in-law's V70XC replacing the timing belt, motor mount, and spark plugs. Everything was going great til I got to the spark plugs, which you would think would be the easiest part. The timing belt was fairly easy compared to others I've done.

Anyways, I attempted to remove the first two plugs, and stopped short because it seemed that the torque needed to break them free was way too much. Last thing I want to do is strip out the threads for the plugs. It's almost as if some bozo installed the suckers way too tight. On most cars I've had/worked on, they break free within about an 1/8 of a turn and you install them with no more than about 20 lb-ft of torque if they have the crush gasket. These didn't have any noticeable decrease in effort up to that point, so put them back. Am I being too paranoid or will I press my luck trying to pull these out?

I've found a 2001 V70 that has one owner from new and a full Volvo service history. I haven't seen it yet but from the pictures it looks to be immaculate.

When I spoke to the owner he said that the only thing worth mentioning was a knocking noise which he says was told by the Volvo dealer was to do with the aircon. Apparently this knocking stops after a few minutes of the engine running and the aircon isn't working very well. He says that the dealer told him that the aircon pump is a common problem on these and that the noise is to do with it pressurising?

I can live without aircon and don't mind getting a second hand pump fitted eventually but if this is actually an engine problem then I don't want to risk it.

Has anyone heard of a noise like this before from a failing aircon system? Is it likely to be the aircon or is the knocking he's describing more likely to be an engine fault?

Can anyone help before I potentially by a lemon?

Thanks

Hello, I am new to this forum and just bought my first Volvo. I recently bought a 2006 Volvo XC90. The right brake light and the left rear fog light do not work. I have replaced the bulb in each and it did not solve the problem. I also swapped out a known working bulb and put in each with not success. Has anyone had the same issue? I have read some posts on other forums that have had both brake lights and both fog lights out due to a relay, but I cannot find any recomendations on anything for just one of the lights not working. I sure appreciate any advice anyone can give me.

Hi guys - have read numerous articles on how to remove a door panel but mine doesn't seem to be the same as the others! Previous descriptions point to a 'grab handle' within the panel which covers a couple of screws. My 2004 D5 V70 AWD doesn't have this but has a vertical handle instead. I've got all the plastic clips out but can't get the panel off. Any help or advice welcome!! (Hopefully, have attached a photo of the panel)

I have a 2001 V70 2.4T. The car drives great when cold, shifts flawlessly. But when hot, the car has shifting issues and intermittent problems such as harsh shifting, delayed shifting such as rounding a right hand corner and stepping on the gas the car will pause for a very long time then slam into gear. Yet other times the car is fine. I never have problems when the car is cold, just when hot. I have had the transmission flushed multiple times and software upgrades have been done at the dealer (yet I have used several dealers and they don't seem to keep track of what each other is doing). Could this be part of the Throttle Body Recall? I have had several trannies go in other cars and I have never had them act like this where they seem broken yet overnight they miraculously fix themselves. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated.

After owning 4 faultless bricks, I purchased a 2001 V70 2.4T a little over a year ago, and since then it's spent more than 2 months in total being fixed. ETM, fuel pump, Alternator, oxygen sensors, new entire cooling system,p/s, $2000 worth of oil leaks and a few others, but that's to be expected. Last month, the engine started stalling and making a ticking sound. Called roadside assistance, he came and started it, found no fault codes, revved it a bit and the engine made a nasty sound and seized. Oil and water perfect and always checked. I have just purchased a new volvo engine in a crate and was wondering if anyone has got any tips for my local mechanic who is installing it. I don't have much faith in the volvo dealer as they have carried out all the work previously.
Cheers, Gav

I must be loosing my touch as I used to be able to figure this stuff out. I want to replace the low beam head lamp bulbs in my 2006 V70 with new bulbs. I'm guessing I need to take the lamp assembly out of the car for easier access to the bulbs but can't figure that out. I see 4 small bolts at the top of the assembly and tried removing them, but the assembly wouldn't move. Before I broke something, I need some advice. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance

hi can anyone help, not had any problems with my 04 xc70 but message alarm system service required keeps being displayed. car locks, internal sensor flashes to indicate alarm is set, doesnt go off unexpectidly, weve even left window down and put arm it and sensors activate,
man who services are car cant see anything obvious.
trying to avoid large bill from volvo which i will get if i take it to them at £80 an hour for their ,mechanics and they arent fast, want them to be a last port of call,
help please anyone

my trany will only shift normally when its cold. once hot it will slip when it shifts into 3rd which puts it into limp mode 3rd gear only,up arrow flashes & engine lite comes on(this is easy enough to over ride turn the key off & restart the engine)so i changed the trany fluid 6 gallons dextron 2 or 3. was told this is what it takes. the next day when on the freeway the torque converter will unlock with the slightest touch of the pedal. should stay locked unless pulling a big grade or a hard acceleration? at end of trip parked car went into store came out 10 minutes later & slipped big time all forward gears & no reverse. had car towed home by the time i got the car home it had cooled but still hot i had all gears again & clunked real bad between reverse & drive. the next day the clunk was much quitter but still there & shifted just fine again.

I am on a fact finding mission to get rid of error code P0442. According to IPD 90% of all cases have the J-hose as the main culprit.

Well, the J-hose attached to the carbon cannister is nearly inaccessible above the rear suspension frame.

With the left wheel removed you can see the end of the carbon cannister and the J-hose on the right side of it. I can even feel around the hose and notice that there are little tears where the rubber has expanded around the boss.

To get further access, I dropped the exhaust and heat shieldt (above the last muffler).

The first picture shows the general area.[attachment=7507:IMAG0012.jpg]
The second picture shows the carbon cannister with the J-hose and my little mirror to look at the bottom of the hose.[attachment=7506:IMAG0010.jpg]

There are two or three tears there.

Replacing the J-hose is a different story and I am looking for some school of hard knocks advice?

Do I really need to remove the exhaust?
Do I really need to remove the cannister and the pump that sits to the right of it?
Any experiences with patching it up?

Looking forward to hear how you have tackled this job.

I had a pretty scary experience this a.m. I was driving my son over to the skate park and all of a sudden all of the lights on the instrument panel came on, the steering wheel locked up and the car turned off by itself.
I restarted the car and the Engine and ETS lights were still lit up and the car sounded like it was going to stall.
I restarted it several times and still those two lights stayed on. I was able to drive the few blocks home.
An hour later,just now, I restarted the car. The Engine light is lit up. After a few seconds the car starts vibrating and the Engine is making that "Putt Putt" sound they do before they stall and then the ETS light pops on.
I had the ETS software replaced and all that (as I had received a recall letter from Volvo) about 2 months ago. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what I should do about it. I am afraid to drive my children and myself around in that thing. What if it had stalled like that on the freeway?
Any ideas?

All Position & Rear Licence Lights Inoperative

2001 V70: 150K
Several days ago ALL position & license lights became inoperative. Headlamps, turn signals, stop lights, & rear fog light(s)operate normally. Fuses 30 & 31 have continuity. All bulbs have continuity. Basically I parked the car, came back 5 hours later . . . No Lights.

Previously (2 years ago) had Volvo deactivate daytime driving lights. No light problems before or after.

Looking for the location of ‘Fusable Links’ 2 & 4 as well as the side light relay (Nomenclature per Haynes) Other suggestions with regard to the problem appreciated.

Need a little help . . . transitioned to the 2001 P@ from a 740 Brick (250,000 miles). This one ½ the miles twice the problems. Thanks

Hi everyone,

My 2001 V70 2.4 petrol is due for major servicing now (90,000 miles) with the timing belt replacement.
I understand that this is quite a big service and I wonder if it is worth to also change the water pump now in order to save money on labour or not?
From what I gathered, the timing belt needs to be removed if one day I have to replace the water pump, so I'm not sure about what to do.

Do water pumps fail on these models?

For information, my car is also very rusty underneath (suspension springs and brake disk etc.). Is this an issue or not?

Thanks for helping...

Chmur

I recently purchased a 2004 V70 (2.4L) and the recirculation button does not work. This car doesn't have the interior air quality system, this button is labeled with the circular arrow inside of an outline of a car and the one light on the left side of the button.

Nothing happens when I push the button and there is no indicator light. I cannot find a fuse or relay labeled for this function that I can find in the (multiple) fuse blocks.

Any ideas?

I have had a problem where the air conditioning works great when the car is cold started and sometimes is just fine. On long drives after a few hours driving ( sometimes less) the blower is clearly blowing loudly audible underneath the right side near glove box, Fan is on full, but no cold air is coming thru the vents except for a very small dispersion of air. it's cool, just hardly coming out. If you stop and let the car cool down. The next day, it's back to normal. I did a full service and re-packed the freon. Same deal. Anyone know anything about this. Everytime I take i to my mechanic it's working. Pesty problem. Greatly appreciate any responses.

Thanks,

Jon Pousette-Dart

Hi, colleagues.
Could anybody tell me your story about same breaking with back safety belts on my car (xc70 - 2001)... just imagine! -Volvo and breaking safety belts !!!

Some time ago I was needed to close back places in accordance with my not often plan with transportation some weight. I try to do fold operation during half hour with negative result. Please note I am not talking about safety at all.

The belts (right and central) were shimed and didn't give to finish closing seats.

Now time to time the middle belt has normalizing, but other belt has full stupor.
Once I disassembled covering of body seat for my visual investigation and of couse didnt see anything. As I understood the problem has more deep level then coil for belt or other mechanicals.

I don't trust formal representative of Volvo in Moscow and before I would like know what is that preliminary and - yeas - how much?
Please share. Thank you.

I am an I D I O T and left my window down and rain soaked my driver side seat (leather) and now my seat is like a piece of plywood. I wanted to ask the forum on their suggestion on how to repair/replace the seat. Should I replace the lower skin or the entire seat? At this point the damage is done and the leather can't be worked out. If I do either do you know where I could find installation instructions for either.

Thanks,

judd

The AC on my 2002 V70XC could be cooler so I've thought to do a re-charge. Took a while today but found the low-pressure outlet and first went to check it's pressure w/gauge that came with the R134a coolant.

It has been VERY hot here recently, in mid- to upper-90s, and when I first checked the pressure at the low-pressure end, it read 100psi while ambient air temp was 95 degrees. I'd actually let the car/engine cool for maybe half hour after driving when the low-end read 100 psi.

I thought that perhaps the reading was higher than it should be because I'd left the AC switched on settings to max cold. So, I went out, ran the engine for three minutes or so, then checked again. The pressure on the low-pressure again was 100psi and ambient air temp still in 90s. (BTW a little grid on the coolant can says air temps in 90s should have low-pressure psi of 50-60, while pressure gauge says 100 psi is "dangerous" with possible "mechanical issues."

I'm looking to get a little more cool without spending $$$ but I'm wondering whether this relatively high PSI reading on the low-pressure port means bigger problems -- i.e., compressor or such. There was some oil on the AC line near that low-pressure fitting but I'm not sure exactly what it was, perhaps even power steering fluid.

I'd welcome any opinions, experts and otherwise. Does the 100 psi reading somehow mean my AC is fried? Car has 147k miles on it and I'm not looking to make (more) big maintenance investments if I can avoid it.

Hello fellow V70 drivers!

I've had problems with my car's transmission for over a year now and so far I have not found a proper solution. Today I came across this forum and it seems to be the most comprehensive source of information on various Volvo issues on the net, so perhaps somebody here has noticed a problem similar to mine and can suggest a fix.

The car is 2001 V70AWD (not XC) with Geartronic transmission. The car has now done about 132,000 km and the problem started to occur at 105,000 km. Basically the problem has two ways of expressing itself. First, the computer warning light comes on and says "Transmission service required". Second, the gearbox occasionally acts weird -- sometimes the upshifts are late and engine revs get unusually high during acceleration; sometimes while standing in traffic, the car seems to want to "jump" into 1st while my foot is on the brake and I have to press the brake pedal strongly to avoid the car starting to move against my will; sometimes the car hesitates to start accelerating when I lift my foot from the brake and press the accelerator (for a second the car just stands and then "jerks" into motion).

The odd thing about this problem is that all these symptoms come and go and they are not directly related -- the computer warning sign may come while the car is behaving normally, and unusual gearbox activity may occur while there is no warning sign on the computer.

I have been to my local Volvo dealer a couple of times with this and they have told me that the error code refers to a mechanical fault in the gearbox. Their suggested solution is replacing the gearbox and they have clearly stated that they cannot repair my existing box. Since replacing the gearbox would cost me about 7,500 USD, I am not very excited about this. The problem has not prevented driving (I have done over 25,000 km since it first occurred), so I have treated this as an annoyance and not as a very serious issue. Nevertheless, I would like to know if there could be a less costly solution to this transmission problem than replacing the gearbox.

Any ideas?

Sincerely,
Jaanus T.

Just bought this V70 three weeks ago. Third time to fill it up yesterday. I pressed the fuel door button. When I went to open the unlatched fuel door it popped off and was dangling from the side of the car by the filler cap. I was able to set it back in and it is now locked. I cant figure out the hinge mechanism. I don't know if a piece is missing or if the pin just snaps and I am not lining it up correctly. Any advice is appreciated.

So we just brought home our '06 2.4. It just ticked over 10K yesterday (and no, I didn't forget a zero, just 10K). Seems in tip top shape but we're going to jet it into the dealer for a check-up before the warranty expires.

I, personally, really did not want anything requiring premium gas so was glad to find a non-turbo as they seemed to be rare in our market. Hubby read the manual, and it STILL recommends premium. He likes to take very good care of his cars down to whatever the manual recommends. I like to give less money to the oil companies, yet of course don't want to ruin my new car.

SO, other non-turbo owners...thoughts?

Thank You.

I am looking at getting a 2006 V70 Front wheel drive auto, & there appear to be 2 engines available:
2.4L 5 cylinder gas
or
2.5L Turbo gas

I have read that the 2.4L puts out about 165/168 hp & the turbo, 208hp.

In terms of fuel economy, maintenance, longevity of each engine & the drive-ability of a V70 equipped with them, is it a mistake to go with the Turbo?

Longevity is important & I don't have any info on the relative record of each engine, hence my query.

Thank you
P45

Hi,

My wife has a 2004 V70 which we just bought and we're having a problem which just started.

The dipped beam works fine and the main beam comes on ok when you pull the multi-function switch/stalk towards you. However it will not lock on so you can't keep the main beam on without holding the switch/stalk towards you.

Has anyone had this, what do you think I ought to do, try and fix it or just replace it?

Regards,

Mike

I took my '01 V70 T5 into the dealer this morning for what I have read on these pages are the usual symptoms of ETM problems:
-Surging at constant speed or when in cruise control.
-Rough and surging idle.
-Going into "Limp Mode"
-"Engine System Failure" warning.
-CEL P0120 Code:Throttle Position Sensor.
etc.,etc.,....

I just got a call from the service dept. saying that they tested the sensor and that it was "within Volvo's parameters" and that they needed to clean the ETM at a cost of $175.00. I asked about the extended warranty on this part and was told that since the sensor tested within range, cleaning was the first step. Is this normal procedure, or just B.S.??

The car is well within the 200k mileage limit on the warranty, but the 10 year limit is less than 2 months away.

Any advice will be appreciated

Hello.

I have a 2004 V70 T5 with HU 580, with steering wheel controls. The car also has a Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth car kit that mutes the radio when in use. There is no traffic information / navigation and no DVD player.

I want to install an adapter, to connect an iPod. I want one that allows the iPod to be controlled from the steering wheel buttons and also shows the playlist details on the HU850 display.

The issue is that there is a Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth kit already installed. It mutes the HU850 when making. receiving calls. I am after an iPod unit that still allows the Parrot to function as it does now. Alternatives seem to be the USA-SPEC PA11-VOL or the imIV (http://www.imiv.ca/).

Has anyone connected either of these (or a similar device I don't - yet - know about) with a Bluetooth device such as the Parrot, giving me the functionality I am after?

Thank you.

I have a 2002 XC70. I recently purchased a used rear-facing auxilliary seat. Installation seems fairly straight-forward except for the seat bottom. There are no pre-drilled holes to mount to. I know there has been some previous discussion about this, but the links to installation that I have found are either not very helpful, or do not actually take me to anything of use.
Does anyone know where I can find the intallation instructions. Dealer has told me they come with every new seat and asked me to contact Volvo Canada. Volvo Canada tells me to contact the dealer (*6%$#)$#@%&*(*^$&^%^)^)

Frustrated......any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone ever experienced total failure of the upper spring mount with punch through? 90,000 miles. Bilstein struts and shocks installed 12 months ago. Right front strut appears to have about an inch of free play. Still rubber to rubber contact so no noise. That said, turning corners had a sort of "heave to" feel. Control arm bushings need replacement, and I put the funny handling to that.
Have read on some Volvo forum that seats from XC90 are interchangeable and much sturdier. IPD indicates XC70 bushings are an upgrade also. Any first hand knowledge here?
("Reputable" independent Volvo shop was instructed to replace seats with struts.)

		Time is now: 2nd September 2010 - 05:41 PM
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