Volvo-Forums.com -> 2G (2001-2007) V70, V70XC & XC70 Forum

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

Hey there,
New to the forum. Curious if anyone's replaced the upper engine mount on the V70?

I bought the part from Volvo. My father-in-law's long-time Volvo mechanic said the swap was not a problem and no special tools required other than a torx bit.

1) Looks like the cold air intake across the top needs to come out.
2) Then the larger of the two black covers on the top removed
3) loosen the two mounting brackets
4) replace the mount

Any experts out there?

The central locking button on both the driver and the passenger front doors of my 2002 XC70 will always lock, but usually not unlock, the doors and tailgate. Occasionally, though very rarely, it will unlock all doors except the driver’s door, and, just as rarely, if the driver’s door is open it will unlock all the doors.

On the other hand, the key, used manually in the door lock, will unlock everything just as it’s supposed to, and the remote will too, although it did go through a period in which the remote unlock button had to be pressed twice to get the driver’s door to unlock. Happily, that gremlin disappeared on its own.

I don’t know a lot about the components involved, but I am thinking that when the central lock button is pressed, the driver’s door lock may be raising an “unlocked” status signal regardless of its actual state and the CEM is responding (via the driver’s door module), as it's supposed to, with a “lock” command.

I’d appreciate any help. Thanks.

Hi guys,
Need some major help as I'm running out of ideas.........

V70 2004 non-turbo was running fine without any problems. My friend moved the car in the driveway (I believe he had it running for a short period of time and might have had his keys for his Mazda with him) and next thing you know the volvo seems to start for about 1 sec and then dies right away.
It turns and cranks and seems to start for only a 1 sec or 2 and dies right away consistantly.

This is what I have done so far:
- able to hear fuel pump
- know that there is fuel in the fuel injection rail as I have press the end of the rail and some fuel came out, do not know the exact pressure, not sure how to measure that?
- I have changed the ignition switch, no difference.
- I have change the antenna ring, no difference.
- I have locked/unlocked 5 times to reset immobilizer, still no difference
- Starter turns the engine.
- all connection seem to be intact.
- also took out the spark plugs and cleaned them or dried them out.
- also not getting any codes but I'm not sure how reliable my new OBDII is as I just got it.
- also tried unplugging MAF sensor and starting but no difference.
- I also do not have a second key to try.......I have a feeling that the key could be bad or lost programming code. Would the car stilll crank in this case?

What else can I try/do? Please help.......

Thanks,
Robert

recently picked up a 2005 UK V70 D5 S

the book said 70L tank which i took as maybe being 73L like my old 850SE.

so fuel light comes on and i go to fill up. Computer was down to "60 miles to Zero", so guessing it thought it at least had 6 litres left in, then the pump finally stops when it recons it has sent 72L down the tube.

so now i'm guessing volvo's "70L" is a real life 78 - 80L??????

with Diesel at around £1.12 GBP/L at the moment thats one expensive fillup, but given the 700mile+ range and 45MPG i'm getting it's still preferable to the old petrol 850

Has anyone done a dry to brimming fill up to confirm what the tank really holds? Im guessing an 800 mile range if you have a long trip and set the cruise to 50MPH is possible.

Sorry if this all sounds a bit sad, but its a bit of a revelation after the 850 which ran dry somewhere between 400 and 450 miles

Anyone ever experienced total failure of the upper spring mount with punch through? 90,000 miles. Bilstein struts and shocks installed 12 months ago. Right front strut appears to have about an inch of free play. Still rubber to rubber contact so no noise. That said, turning corners had a sort of "heave to" feel. Control arm bushings need replacement, and I put the funny handling to that.
Have read on some Volvo forum that seats from XC90 are interchangeable and much sturdier. IPD indicates XC70 bushings are an upgrade also. Any first hand knowledge here?
("Reputable" independent Volvo shop was instructed to replace seats with struts.)

I have searched this forum until my fingers bled and can find no symtpoms similar to this....

My 02 V70XC w/115K miles has started to be very sluggish to start . And when it does turn over the initial rev is bogged down.

Additionally I am smelling gas....big time.

I know it is only a matter of days before it will not start as the sluggishnish increases slightly each day. Today was about 10 seconds.

I am laid off and cannot affford a tow.

Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated.

Hi all,

I've come across a good deal on a set of 17" wheels off a 2004 s60. I've cross-referenced the part number and I believe they should fit. I have a normally-aspirated 2001 v70 with stock 16" wheels. It's due for tires and I really dislike my current wheels.

Does anyone know if I will run into any clearance (or other) issues moving up from 16-17? I understand speedo will probably be a bit off.

Here's a pic of the wheels I'd like to put on:

Thanks,
Sasha Pave

All service done at a Volvo dealership, including the last 120K mile service and timing belt.

For $7800, is it a risky buy at this mileage? I got a vin scan from the dealer, looks like nothing really had been broken (no tranny replacement, no issues).

Will I likely to have problems NOW after all these years? Or the good maintenance has done a lot of good?

People tell me that for 2001, the transmission of the XC WILL/WILL die at around 100K, no matter how well it is maintained.. just the 2001 woes.

Advice?

PS. we were really looking for a 2003 - 2005 S40/S60 FWD. Thinking the FWD would have fewer problems than the AWD. But hard to find something with history except this XC.

Hi Folks

Could use a little help understanding a problem with my 2001 v70 wagon with 91,000 miles. Last July I had the alternator replaced by NTB. In December I had the battery replaced at the Volvo dealership with a volvo battery. This morning the car wouldn't start. When the AAA guy jumped it he also ran diagnostics and said it was charging at 13.1 with everything off and after checking with the dealer it should be at 14.2+. The AAA guy said because it wasn't charging at the right level it was taking it from the battery which kills the battery.

I brought the car to NTB to check the alternator and they say the alternator is ok. What else could be causing the charge not to be at the level required?

Thanks

In the market to get a used Volvo. Live in Washington DC, normally not a AWD country... lately seems to be a good idea. Quick google revealed MANY problems with the early 2001 - 2003 V70 XC (AWD), and even the 2003 S60 2.5T AWD seems to be unreliable?

How come? Should I just stick with a FWD Volvo to get the safety, deal with the snow when it does come, and save myself the headaches on AWD $$ repairs?

All opinions are welcome. We really like Volvo (had an old one before) and don't want to go Subaru yet.

Hi, I've inherited a 2003 V70 D5 with 95k. Regularly serviced, etc, but re-mapped several years back.

Problem, when accelerating hard, whistling sound and loss of power. Fails to get above a certain speed. Several minutes later, back to normal, plenty of power/acceleration, same road, incline, etc.

Specialist garage read an error code (can't recall ref) and "took vacuum hoses to front engine mount out of the equation." They said "should provide turbo with required air/whatever" (apologies for the inaccuracies in reporting diagnostics).

Another problem, clock sometimes resets by several hours on start-up. A mate said this might be the re-map gone wrong. Hence acceleration problems.

Are the two connected? Occasionally very rough idling. One slightly faulty injector but this shouldn't be connected.

Appreciate any help. Thanks.

Bought it in September. Hasn't leaked the whole time I had it. I took it to the local Volvo Dealer for it's first oil change since I've owned it, and now I have some small puddles in the driveway. I assumed it was the filter or drain plug that wasn't fastened all the way during the change, so I jacked it up tonight to inspect, and found the leak is coming from the Turbo. There is a small 1/2" hose it looked like coming out the drivers side that appeared to be the source of the leak.

Question is, would the dealer have messed with the Turbo in any way during a routine oil change? I understand Jiffy Lubes etc. don't mess with oil changes on cars like ours due to the Turbo, which is why I took it to the dealer in the first place.

I'm going to take it back in in the morning and have them inspect it first thing in the morning. What type of problem do you guys think this is? Is the turbo bad? Or perhaps just the hose/clamp going into it. Anyone seen this before?

Hello fellow V70 drivers!

I've had problems with my car's transmission for over a year now and so far I have not found a proper solution. Today I came across this forum and it seems to be the most comprehensive source of information on various Volvo issues on the net, so perhaps somebody here has noticed a problem similar to mine and can suggest a fix.

The car is 2001 V70AWD (not XC) with Geartronic transmission. The car has now done about 132,000 km and the problem started to occur at 105,000 km. Basically the problem has two ways of expressing itself. First, the computer warning light comes on and says "Transmission service required". Second, the gearbox occasionally acts weird -- sometimes the upshifts are late and engine revs get unusually high during acceleration; sometimes while standing in traffic, the car seems to want to "jump" into 1st while my foot is on the brake and I have to press the brake pedal strongly to avoid the car starting to move against my will; sometimes the car hesitates to start accelerating when I lift my foot from the brake and press the accelerator (for a second the car just stands and then "jerks" into motion).

The odd thing about this problem is that all these symptoms come and go and they are not directly related -- the computer warning sign may come while the car is behaving normally, and unusual gearbox activity may occur while there is no warning sign on the computer.

I have been to my local Volvo dealer a couple of times with this and they have told me that the error code refers to a mechanical fault in the gearbox. Their suggested solution is replacing the gearbox and they have clearly stated that they cannot repair my existing box. Since replacing the gearbox would cost me about 7,500 USD, I am not very excited about this. The problem has not prevented driving (I have done over 25,000 km since it first occurred), so I have treated this as an annoyance and not as a very serious issue. Nevertheless, I would like to know if there could be a less costly solution to this transmission problem than replacing the gearbox.

Any ideas?

Sincerely,
Jaanus T.

Hi all...

I went for an errand today in the '02 V70 and when I went to lock the doors using key in the driver side door it acted like I was using the wrong key: it wouldn't turn either way. I used the very same key to unlock the car earlier when I first set off on the errand and it worked fine. Also, considering that I used the same key to start the car I know I had the right key, so I'm not sure what's up.

When I got home I tried the second key and it behaved the same way...it wouldn't turn, again as if it was the incorrect key.

Any ideas? Schmutz in the lock cylinder? Or did the lock cylinder go bad just then?

The remote locks are a work-around for now, but it's disconcerting that the keys no longer work.

Thanks!

- Dan

I've recently purchased Volvo original wiper blades from the parts department of the local delaer, and they are great!
(One thing I noticed is that the latching mechanism of my previous aftermarket blades were different from Volvo originals. I guess the patent protection prevented from aftermarket vendors from using the original Volvo latching mechanism.)

In any event, I was wondering if cheaper aftermarket options would provide as good results.

Hello.

I have a 2004 V70 T5 with HU 580, with steering wheel controls. The car also has a Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth car kit that mutes the radio when in use. There is no traffic information / navigation and no DVD player.

I want to install an adapter, to connect an iPod. I want one that allows the iPod to be controlled from the steering wheel buttons and also shows the playlist details on the HU850 display.

The issue is that there is a Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth kit already installed. It mutes the HU850 when making. receiving calls. I am after an iPod unit that still allows the Parrot to function as it does now. Alternatives seem to be the USA-SPEC PA11-VOL or the imIV (http://www.imiv.ca/).

Has anyone connected either of these (or a similar device I don't - yet - know about) with a Bluetooth device such as the Parrot, giving me the functionality I am after?

Thank you.

So I am having the typical abs module problems,
I checked with Victor, he cant fix it. I find an ebay auction by bba-reman, and according to the auction they can fix modules v70 1998-2002.
Any way I pull it out, box it and ship it, ... a few days later I get the module back untouched with a pay-pal refund. <- (thanks bba for being honest). The module is too new, they cant fix it.

Anyway Im back at where I started, I have a broken module in my hand. I don't want to install a broken one back in, since it is pointless. So what are my options right now?

A)Who rebuilds them?
B)Junk Yard and reprogram ... is this difficult /expensive
C)will the dealership rebuild it or will the want me to buy a new one ?
D)None of the above?

thanks for any input
Matthew

this is a v70 fwd 2.4 auto trans. shifts fine through the gears. but when stopped it seems to be shifting slightly bucking.release brakes and there is a pause before the vehicle moves. acts like you just moved selector to drive. it shifts fine after the takeoff from a stop. checked fluid. its a little dirty but correct level. car has 139,000 miles . im hoping to changed to change fluid here soon to see if it helps. any other suggestions or procedures to do... every help is greatly appreciated thanks

Sometimes, while pressing the gas pedal strongly, the car (V70, 2001 2.4T) has a strong vibration. It stops if I stop accelerating ( Keeping the speed ). It happens every so and then, in the city while accelerating at low speeds. I checked the tyres and are ok. Motor mounts are all new. Seems as wheel bearing having problems , something related to turbo pressure or related to transmission, as the gearbox ( automatic ) sometimes engages/disengages the transmission and/or change gear producing a hard coupling.

I have a 2003 Volvo XC70, sometimes all the dash lights and indicators go on and off. The radio and light controls stay lit up and function. It is becoming more frequent and is not always the same, sometimes lights and indicators don't work othertimes lights on indicators off. I also now have two warning messages that appeared as the indicators and lights came back on. They are bulb position failure and SRS airbag or safety restraint. What could it be and will it be expensive to diagnose or repair?

I am considering my first Volvo purchase and have found a few certified vehicles from local dealers that I am considering. They are all '07 with 15K to 37K miles. Since they are certified, the warranty is 6yrs/100K miles. For another $2K, I can extend the warranty out 2 additional years. Is this worth it? Is there a good chance I'll need more than $2K of work down between years 6-8 of service?

thanks in advance for any advice.

Hi all
i am new in this forum and thi is my first post here. I am new owner of 2005 XC70 d5 AWD,manual gerbox, four-c, DSTC purchased at 70K kilometers from a local official dealer in Bulgaria. I am truly happy with our new family car. Excelent ride and performance even on realy bad Bulgarian roads.
Along with some small repairs like broken hinge of the tank cover the car is in very good shape etc. Few day before I've noticed that the headliht washer do not works as described in the manual - along with every windshield washer actuation. I've checked this in many internet postings / forums and manuals but nothing for this model/year. My question is, if anyone can advice, is there any way to check if the pump is damaged or the function disabled for any reason by the previous owner (is this possible?); prior going to the dealer and official service etc.
I've read somewhere that on XC90 you have to pull the lever 4 times before the headlight washer actuates, but this do not works for me too. Is there any popular way programmable for this function in order saving the washer fluid?

Thank you in advance!

Best
George

Hi,
I have a new to me 2001 xc70 with 100k miles on it. The car is really nice and everything seems ok except for the heat. It seems fine at idle heating up to the second or third notch on the gauge, but, traveling down the road it runs cooler and cooler the faster you go. The seems to be a direct corelation between temp on the gauge and heat.
This suggests to me that the car needs a thermostat, but, I am not familular with Volvos so I wanted to check here first
Anything I should look for?
Thank you in advance

Ed

New to the forums, Hi all! Have had my 2002 v70 xc a year tomorrow. Bought her used from the dealership as a one owner. Aaaaand....

I swear I'm about ready to drive Vera over a cliff, that is if she would start. Went to leave the office for lunch and turned the key but nothing happens. All of the lights come on on the dash and radio/heater, etc work, but she won't turn over. I don't have any messages stating something is wrong. I believe it's the starter, but not sure. Does anyone have any suggestions or know how to replace the starter or where I could find them?

Thanks!

I must be loosing my touch as I used to be able to figure this stuff out. I want to replace the low beam head lamp bulbs in my 2006 V70 with new bulbs. I'm guessing I need to take the lamp assembly out of the car for easier access to the bulbs but can't figure that out. I see 4 small bolts at the top of the assembly and tried removing them, but the assembly wouldn't move. Before I broke something, I need some advice. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance

Over a month ago the check engine light came on my V70 T5 (2001). I have had it diagnoses by every volvo person for 100 miles. The codes say that the front 02 sensor heater is not working. Four different new o2 sensors have been installed. Both heater wires to the ECM have been changed. The diagnosis now is that the engine control unit/module has failed. I have acquired 2 "rebuilt" ones from a company in Florida but the volvo dealer can not even read them. A new ECU from Volvo Canada is $1700.00 including taxes. The company in Florida now says they can get a new blank one from a volvo dealer in Florida. Sounds like a scam. Comments?

hi all can any one throw any light on my problem v70 2001 which started playing up last night, after going shopping got back in the car every thing was all right for the 1st few minutes, then the gears started to feel stiff and had trouble getting it in gear ,finally got it in and it juddered in 1st then almost crunched in 2nd and third ,it comes and goes the clutch pedal feels abit lighter ive checked the fluid and theres no lose,engine mounts are ok ,the clutch does not slip either any one got any ideas, ive trie the uk volvo forums but to no avail its like a taboo subject here not one answer,yiour help would be much appreciated the cars only done 110000 miles with a cambelt change at 97000

Hi Evryone

AT shifts great, sporty or simply going up the gears. But, driving in traffic, I notice some behavior that Volvo mechanics says those are the signs of a failing AT. He said I will need to change the AT but might get it fixed too.

it is a 2001 c70 cabrio and has 86000 km on it, I changed the fluid on 79000 km (no filter change), problem started about on 85000 km. It has the same gearbox with S70 a AW 55-50

problems are:

1. While accelerating slowly, the car seems to take it's time shifting through the 2nd gear. Every once in a while (every 50km), from 2nd to 3st gear, the engine RPM will shoot up slightly just for a split second, then it will continue with 3rd gear normally.U dont feel it, just the engine sounds like in natural for a second or less.
2. When l step on the accelerator slightly and sometimes it feels like the transmission is in too low a gear. The engine begins to advance, and then the transmission "kicks" in after a slight delay.
3. Sometimes (every 200km), as I slow down to come to a stop, I can feel the transmission shift down (2nd to 3rd).

What are he meaning of these signs? . Problems started after heavy rain season, some people talk about damp in gearbox.

I need your advice cos it is very hard to find a AT mechanic in Turkey. By the way VolvoTurkey does NOT fix AT, they just replace it. Is it the way in EU or the States?

Hey. Well I bought my first Volvo today. A used 2002 V70 2wd. Fully loaded. Love the car, drives great, no weird noises. Great carfax records, well maintained, no wrecks and no major repairs.

It has about 90,000 miles. Not sure if this is a lot for a Volvo. I've had a few other cars - Toyota and Jeep which went to 200,000 miles requiring no major repairs.

Anyway, Just wondering what I can expect and what I should watch out for. Are the engines and transmissions pretty solid in this model? Any advice would be appreciated!

		Time is now: 12th March 2010 - 12:09 PM
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