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Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.
Next remove the Air filter housing.
The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood. Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.
Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off) Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.
Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.
Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines) Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster. Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.
That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.
Inside the car:
Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side. Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.
Now go back outside:
Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side. Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.
Then install in reverse order.
It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.
Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.
So I filled up the car at the gas station across the street today and when I went to fire it back up it cranked but would not fire up. I've checked maf, the turbo lines, tried a different key in case of the immobilizer. is it possible it could be a cam shaft sensor or coolant level sensor? Was also told it could be a bad ecu. Has anyone experienced an issue like this and resolved it? Would really appreciate a hand with this one!
I have been chasing this problem for awile now. customer had a vibration on accel and de-accel. he went to another shop and had both front axles replaced. (aftermarket) No change then they replaced the front control arms ( volvo parts) I then got the car. I replaced the front lower ( passenger side) motor mount. it was starting to go. no change I removed the rear driveshaft and the vibration got a lot worse ( more torque on the front axles) I then ordered 2 more aftermarket front axles from my supplier. It got a lot better afterwards, but still a minor vibration only on the accel. over the next two weeks, the vibration got worse and now on the accel and de-accel ( not as bad as it originally was but still bad enough) so i ordered two more axles with no change. one option i know would be to put new axles from volvo but they are like 6-700 vs 200 for aftermarket. any other ideas?
Car will start fine, but occasionally (now much more frequently) after the car has been running fast/hard for 45 minutes or so, the car will begin to sputter and ultimately stall upon deceleration. Once it starts sputtering the check engine light will come on, but nothing before or after. After it stalls, the car usually won't start for a few minutes but after, at most, ten minutes of rest the car starts back up and runs fine. While it's been quite hot down south here, no indication of overheating. All routine maintenance is up to date.
I have a issue with the AC. I believe the air flow is weak. I don't think its cooling the cabin well. I had my mechanic check the temperature from the front ducts and it was reading 6C/42F He said this was ok, but when I drive the car I feel its hot inside. Any idea whats wrong?
I got my differential broken which cause damage to the outlet of the gearbox gear(not sure how to describe it). The teeth inside vanished. This part unfortunately is not sold separately but I am with only option to buy a new tranny or buy an old one and take out this gear. Both costy.
My question is, if out there someone have got broken auto transmission from which, he/she can give me that part I need. I am not exactly sure how it is called but I will attach pictures of it. Basically, I have been told, it is the the connection of the gearbox to the differential rod.
The tranny is AW50/51 AWD which is found in 2003/2004 model XC70(my make is Sep 2003 but model 2004) 5 gears 163 h.p diesel
If any one can help me out with info or directions I would appreciate it.
Hi all, This is my first post here. I've done a few searches specific to my issue, but no luck. Hopefully I am posting in the right place.
My significant other's 2007 Volvo XC70 has around 100,000 miles on it. A few weeks back we did a 3 day drive along the West Coast pulling a small haul and the car worked great.
As of yesterday, the car suddenly will not start. When you open the door the first time, a fast "whirring" can be heard from behind the center of the dash. Then when I put in the key and turn it, dash lights and AC turn on, but the car does not turn or make a clicking sound. It just sort of whirrs slowly, as if something under the hood was turning once every half second or so.
I tested the battery, reads 12v. I have not taken it in to be load tested yet.
I've read a bit about the immobilizer and key issues, this does not sound like the same issue to me.
I am also uncertain where to get diag codes from this car.
If anyone has simple suggestions such as reseating cables or similar straightforward fixes, I'd love to try a few things before having it towed. Unfortunately I haven't the time, space or experience with this car to take on a large repair myself.
This is without a doubt one of the MOST frustrating issues of my entire life. I have been trying (for weeks) to get an answer to one simple question!! The DIM in my wife's 2003 XC V70 died - NOTHING works. I have tried installing two used units from a salvage yard - neither of them worked. Is there a relay or fuse that sends power to the DIM????!!!!! If so what is it and where is it? Someone most know the answer one way or another. Thanks
I currently have a HU-615 head unit and factory speakers. The quality of the speakers seems to have gone down and I am looking to upgrade them without breaking the bank.
I believe the tweeters in the front are OK so I am planning to leave them as is.
Questions: 1. I plan to install (6) JBL GX602 speakers - 2 front, 2 r door, & 2 rear deck. Is this a relatively straight forward swap out and do I need some sort of mounting spacer? 2. Will the HU-615 have enough power to run these? 3. Will I be able to simple leave the factory tweeters installed as is or will I need to reconnect them to the new speakers? 4. I am unclear if there is a factory amp in my car. Is there an internal amp? 5. Are there any quick and easy ways of connecting an auxiliary cable for an iPhone to the HU-615? I currently use the tape deck adapter.
RE: 2001 S60 non turbo (sorry for duplicating on the S60 section, but the same engine...)
Yesterday after stopping for a 1/2 hour, the temp gauge jumped into the red zone and got a message saying stop engine. we towed the car home, bought a new coolant sensor and a new thermostat.
However while draining the coolant, I noticed that it was not really hot as stated on the gauge and even after leaving the engine off for a few hours the gauge still jumps into the red zone, even with the new temperature sensor (on the thermostat housing).
It is possible that my son car has second temperature sensor besides the one on the thermostat? I have to stop at the Volvo dealer after work to buy a new drain plug (yes, I over tighten the old one...),is there something else I should buy?
As a new owner of a 2001 v70 2.4T I'm hoping to get some good advice from this forum. Our car which we just purchased has 171,000 miles. I feel like we got it for a good price. The reviews of the car which I have read are pretty disappointing, but I would expect there are at least some members here who have had good luck with this model. Any advice about what to watch out for and what to expect would be greatly appreciated. We had the timing belt/water pump replaced before we brought the car home, so that is taken care of for a while. I drive a 99 Miata, which I love. The Volvo is my daughter's, but I'll be the one working on it. Thanks much. John
Hi, We just purchased a 2001 V70. Haven't even brought it home yet. The car has 171,000 miles on it. The car fax shows no record of the timing belt having been changed, but I'm sure it has probably been changed at least once. Anyway, not knowing, that is first on our to do list. I'm wondering how difficult the project is, and if anyone can suggest a good repair manual or youtube video. I have done timing belt water pump project on my 99 Miata, but have never worked on a Volvo. If it a fairly straightforward project, I should be able to manage it. If it is really complicated, or requires a lot of special tools, I may let a mechanic do it. Any advice would be much appreciated.
My dash guages, displays, and lights are intermittently failing. Sometimes all the lights and displays go dark, tach, speedo, fuel and temp gauges drop to zero or will be stuck at a reading, all display icons may be lit at times, when I shut the car off dash lights may stay on. While driving everything may work normally, then problems occur again. I am thinking a short/loose connection in the wiring. Just wonder if anyone knows the best connection(s) to start looking at before I have to tear off the dash and start checking everything.
Another weird quick of this recently-acquired 2003 XC70: It's become virtually impossible to fill up the gas tank. The gas foams up the inlet and shuts off the pump about every 1/3 of a gallon.
I noticed this the first time I filled it up for my mother. That time, it was tricky; you had to get the nozzle in just right. Today, no amount of changing the nozzle angle or depth helped at all, so it seems to be getting worse.
I've never heard of this problem before. Any ideas? Is some vent plugged up?
Okay , so I owned my car for a year now , it has done this since day one . When braking the steering wheel pulls to the left and my wagon wants to go right . When treveling over 75 it feels as if my wheels are working against each other I have extreme out her wear on front driver tire and center of both
What I have done so far : Replaced both struts and bushings Replaced lower control arm bushings on passenger side Checked brake calipers
Anyone else have this issue! And solved it Need some advice
My son just had a minor collision in which he smashed the glass on the passenger headlight assembly. We have the Xenon headlights - which I've never liked - and from what I can gather it's not possible to buy the glass lens only for the Xenon assembly, only for the halogen. So instead of spending $1000 or so on a new halogen assembly I think I'll spend $350 on a set of new halogen assemblies.
There have been some posts about swapping but nothing definitive, as far as I can tell. It seems like I have to remove the Xenon assemblies and ballasts and replace with halogen assemblies. Then evidently I have to have the car re-programmed at the dealer so that a warning isn't constantly displayed about bulbs being burnt out. In addition - and this is the part I'm not clear on - I have to disable some leveling motor for the headlight while it's at the highest level. Does anyone know if this final step actually has to be done?
I'd love to hear from somebody who's actually done this successfully.
Last night i decided to fix the timing issue i've been having with my volvo for a few day, the timing wasn't off much but since i picked up the cam locking tool i figured id get it fixed. I did what i thought would fix the timing by setting the cams like i've read and done before by lining up the cams and what not. i pieced the car back together and went to start the car it cranked a few times but was a no start so i decided to do some reading and realized i hadn't checked my camshaft timing marks before i put the car back together back apart everything went this time i took off the harmonic balancer to get a better look at the cam marks I used a flywheel puller and took it off but it started to pull off the gears for the timing belt ( it never came all the way off) but i quickly took of the balancer and hammered back on the gear. again aligned everything perfect and put it back together, no heres where my issue begins i the whole time i was adjusting the lower cam lines the car seemed to have compression like it should in spots where it gets hard to turn the crank then eases up but once i got the car back together and went to start it it made a very very subtle pop noise and then the crank shaft spun like it had no compression so i tested moving it by hand and it seemed to be very easy with no hard spots... this is where i'm left with a non starting car i have a feeling i messed it up internally so im just trying to get others opinions before i go and buy a new (used) motor i found for cheap.
I did re check the timing marks and everything seems to be in line
Other work i did on the car at the same time that might make a difference:
IPD HD TCV and lines Cleaned the pcv hose under the manifold that runs to the intake repaired intercooler boot (until my new one comes)
I've got an '05 V70 with 105K on it, and have had it for a few years now. A previous owner apparently hit a curb or pothole hard enough to ding the RF wheel. I replaced the wheel and didn't think too much about it. Much later, when I had it aligned, I discovered that the RF wheel had been pushed back about 3/4". The shop got the toe, camber, and "steer ahead" right on spec, but the caster was 4.1 degrees on the left side (correct) and only 1.8 degrees on the right (way out of spec). It drives okay except it has a slight pull to the right.
Now with over 100K on it, I need to replace the control arm bushings, shocks, and tires (Michelins worn out after only 26K). I want to get the right front corrected while I'm at it. My local Volvo mechanic recommended taking it to a good alignment shop, loosening up the subframe bolts and pulling the right side forward, then tightening it down again. He says he saw no obvious sign of damage to the subframe or suspension bits while underneath the car.
I'm wondering if the control arm, strut, or something else might have been bent. I can't see any obvious signs of damage, though. Anybody got any thoughts on this?
Hi I wonder if anyone has come across the following issue or knows what the problem might be. My neighbour has a 2002 reg V70 automatic and has been having an intermittent fault. He says that sometimes when driving along the car hits 2000 rpm and then the revs jump up dramatically and then the car changes up a gear with a jerk. the car will then be smooth until it hits 2000 rpm and it happens again. Any ideas what this might be or where to start looking. Thanks in advance
[font="Arial Black"][/font]Hi Guys. I have a v70 2006 and have to replace the rear reversing sensors (After market kit) this is the procedure for removing the rear bumper that I used. 1)lift tailgate and remove the wooden floor panel + lift out the storage tray. 2)disconnect and remove the battery, (note make sure you have your radio code) 3)locate and remove the 4 torx screws at the wheel arches (1 at the top corner of the bumper and 1 underneath the wheel arch return on each side) 4)locate and remove the 4 plastic lock clips underneath the rear bumper (these need the centre pin pushing in about 12mm to release) 5)remove the sound proof strip located on the metal work in the boot stuck to the rear metal work behind the bumper. 6)locate and remove the 4 nuts and tubes hidden under the sound proof strip. *** be very careful not to drop these into the void of the body work (I put a strong magnetic into the long reach 13mm socket) this held theses in the socket so I could retrieve them *** 7)now at each wheel arch gently but firmly pull the top of the bumper from the bodywork about 30 to 40mm 8)the bumper will now slide backwards off its mountings (best done with help from a 2nd person)
Not a difficult job but will require patience, should take about 30 to 40mins to remove. Refitting takes the same time just reverse the procedure. If you want photo's, which show the location of all the fixings just message me through this forum.
I'm having what I think is an immobilizer issue with my 2006 XC70. I'll start from the beginning.
2 weeks ago, I tried to start my car and I couldn't turn the key past the Accessory position. I could, and still can, take it out of steering lock. But I couldn't put it in neutral to push it out of the way – it was blocking other cars in a driveway. So AAA towed it to my mechanic's shop.
My mechanic took the cable off the shift-lock override, and took the ignition lock apart – meaning that the part with the tumblers is still in the steering column, and the round white switch was hanging loose. He put the key in the tumbler part and a screwdriver in the white part, and she started up just fine.
And I used this set up for a day or two until I stopped to put gas in, and when I got back in, the car was immobilized. Some internet research reveals that “lock the door 5 times with the remote” trick, and after a dozen attempts, I get this to work and the car starts again. But it's not quite right – I have no cabin heater, heated seats or radio.
At the repair shop, we discover that my battery is low, so it gets charged. He didn't have time to disassemble the tumbler part or investigate further, so I drive off. My heat, etc is working again. After a few miles, I get a warning light saying that the car has no oil pressure, so I pull over. The car gave me this once before, and it was bogus. I listen to the engine and there's no rattling sound, so I continue another couple of miles, and I notice that now I do indeed have a rattling sound. So I park the car thinking I've got a blown engine.
The mechanic comes by with a jump pack, and we can't get it out of immobilize mode. Sometimes, the 5x lock trick gets the immobilizer message to go away, but she still won't crank. All kinds of red warning lights are coming on – air bag failure, brake failure. Once in a while, we get a mini-crank out of her before she goes right back to immobilized.
The next day, we come back with a fresh battery, thinking that mine is probably shot. It's 4 years old, and we have 10 degree weather here, so it's likely that the existing battery is indeed useless.
And she starts up after a couple of lock-the-door-5x cycles !!
At first, the engine sounds normal. No rattling at all. But after a minute or two at idle, the rattling returns, which the mechanic claims to recognize as a crankshaft timing issue. He's also adamant that I have oil pressure. So we drive the car 10 miles to his shop again, and the oil pressure warning light comes on again, but the car makes it there without getting any worse, so I have to believe there is indeed engine oil pressure or the the engine would have seized.
After several days at the shop, we still haven't got the engine restarted. The usual suspects have been checked – fuses, connections to the computer, starter motor wires. We've let the car sit 5 hours after start attempts. We've hot-wired the starter motor, and it cranks, but it won't fire up.
The mechanic has put his test box in the computer, and he's getting a message saying that it is 'Start Prevented'.
I still haven't fixed the ignition lock problem, so we're trying all of this with the ignition in 2 pieces – the key going into the tumblers on the steering column and a screwdriver being used to turn the switch itself. I'm poor enough that $25 for a pressure sender unit is an issue right now, so I'm reluctant to pay for a new ignition switch if I can't prove the car to be viable. And certainly, taking to car to Volvo is completely out of the question.
Background. Last Sunday I snapped my serpentine belt. I drove it home but battery was almost dead. Tuesday I replaced the belt. The only thing out of the ordinary is that I removed the ECM cover to get clearance. After, the car started right up and ran normally until I touched the brake pedal to move from Park. It fell to idle and would not respond to the accelerator pedal. I have tried to reset the ECM by disconnecting battery, etc. Seems to be no diference. I will try it again. Does the 2004 v70 have some kind of brake-throttle override?
i own a v70 t5 2001 and i cant figure out how to turn of the head light wipers . i have tried the front wiper switch witht the head lights on i have tried the back wiper switch with the back wipers on i have so curious on how to turn those little bad boys on its unreal!!
i have owned this car for a year now and i cant figure it out HELP!!!!
Hello, I'm a new member and would like some advise on what to look for when buying a used 2005 V70 2.5T with 150,000km. The car on the outside looks great but would appreciate anyone's advise on what to look for mechanically.
Hi everybody my name is Jason. I'm a newbie to the world of Volvo and so far so good. I just recently purchased an 03 xc70 and only issue it has is the sunroof doesn't do anything no clicking like it wants to work...nothing. I checked the fuse and thats fine. I'm assuming somebody attempted a fix because the driver side trim a-pillar?has been pulled away from the windsheild. I have no idea where to start any help would be greatly appreciated.
[COLOR=blue]Hi- I am new to the forum and I wish it were under a better circumstance. Had our cross country towed last night for the third time in a month. Keep getting an immobilizer alert on the message board. Our service dept at the dealer did replace the antenna ring once but the problem occured again. Got the car back after the second repair and all seemed well but within 4 days the car failed again. Any thoughts??? So frustrating and I'm afraid to take our children out in the vehicle for fear we will all get stuck somewhere. Thanks for any thoughts anyone may have.............
My mother bought my sister's 2003 Volvo XC70 AWD, and it's developed a problem of draining the battery when not driven for a few days. I'm a professional electronics tech, so I ran some tests. I've worked on cars for years, but mostly back when they were less electronically complicated than they are now.
The system is charging at 14.5V with the engine running. The battery was not date-marked on installation, so I have no idea how old it is. The cells have plenty of water in them.
I charged the battery overnight last night, using an automatic charger, and when I went to disconnect it this morning, the current meter on the charger was bouncing slightly close to zero. After disconnecting the charger, I disconnected the negative battery terminal and put an ammeter between negative and battery. (All doors were closed.) I got an odd reading. The system would draw very little current for a couple of seconds, then pulse up to 200mA for a few seconds, then drop to a very low current reading. The pulses are about 1 pulse per second, maybe a little faster. This pattern repeats consistently over and over.
There are also some weird readouts from the dashboard computer. A few times when I've driven the car, I noticed that the readout was just a bunch of random, constantly changing nonsense. The last time the battery was dead, I charged the battery overnight. When I drove it that day, I noticed that the computer readout was working properly. The same thing was true today; after overnight charging, the computer readout was normal.
I am going to have the battery tested, but I was wondering if anyone has seen something like this before. My family has had GM cars for years, so I'm familiar with their quirks, but not with Volvos. Are there any known issues with XC70s at this point in their lives that can cause battery drain?
My 2002 V70 D5 SE is displaying a series of weird dash issues. I've read the thread about this on this forum but the symptoms my car is displaying don't quite match. Some are there but others aren't as bad. There's clearly a problem and, due to language and cost, I need to get this fixed when I'm next back in the UK so I need to get as much intelligence as I can to help the electrical engineer who'll be trying to fix it. These are the symptoms...
1) The blue light on the dash to show that high beam is on only comes on intermittently. 2) When starting the car, the mileage on T1 resets to 0.0, the DIM flags up "Service needed", then, when the engine fires, the "Service needed" message goes away and T1 goes back to the original, correct figure. 3) Every now and then the clock starts to timewarp by running forwards very fast. 4) I've noticed that when raising the driver's window, it gets about 1/3 way then starts going down again. On lifting the switch again, it goes all the way up. I'm wondering if this is related to the other anomalies being displayed.
I understand that others have had more serious issues such as total power loss, garbled messages on the DIM and indicator loss (at least on the dash, they work on the car). I think I'm lucky that I've had none of these. I spoke to Revtronic in the UK and they hadn't heard of my car's symptoms but said that it's probably on its way to bigger failure as others have experienced and that I should just ignore it until this happens. So I'm wondering, if anyone's experienced the total loss of dash and instruments, did it happen suddenly or did the faults build up to it?
From looking at the other very useful posts here, I've eliminated the Voltage Regulator L4925N because everything including the message on the DIM lights up correctly. It would appear however that some of the above can be corrected by 'reflowing' the Motorola Chip and, while the dash is out, checking/resoldering all other connections. I'm wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time.
One other thing, on several occasions (and reliably at two petrol stations) after filling the car up the T1 has reset to 0.0 when I press the button but after a few seconds, beeps then goes back to the original number. This happens until I'm a good km or so away from the filling station. Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, is it interference from some kind of radio frequency at the stations messing up the trip computer on my car or is it related to the above.
I really would appreciate any advice. Basically I'm expecting to have to look at the now famous "Budulan" technique to fix it and I'm wondering if this would suffice for these issues or whether something more serious is afoot.
Driving my granddaughter to school this morning, and the little red triangle popped on and 'Low Battery Voltage' appeared in the message window.
Got her to school OK and on arrival, turned the engine off and immediately restarted - no message.
Was at the school for maybe 20 mins, started the car - no message.... 4 miles down the road, up it pops again. Stopped for petrol, started the car - no message.... once again, 4 miles along and it pops up again.
During all this all the electrics seem to function as they should but I did try and shut off everything I could, including turning the light to sidelights.
When I arrived home I left the car running and metered the battery 14-15 volts - turned it off and metered it again - same. Did three false starts to try and drain some juice out of the battery, same meter reading.
2001 V70 suddenly stopped. Had to tow it back home. No prior indication of any issue with transmission. Engine runs fine, but no engine "power" to the wheels. Slight grinding noise at idle. Substantial crunching noise when shifting back from the non-functional gears (R,N,D,4,3,L) to "P". Mechanic (over the phone)says this may NOT be a catastrophic transmission failure (something still undiagnosed, but less expensive to fix). Drained the transmission fluid (about 4 liters came out), which was reddish-brown. Please give me your thoughts as to what may be wrong with this car/transmission, and whether it is worth fixing (e.g. upfront cost of the repair, reliability later on).
When in Reverse or, when in Neutral and rolling backwards down a hill, the car will suddenly jerk (hang up), make a clunking sound and then release and continue in reverse. This happens about 1 in 8 to 12 times so it is difficult to repeat for diagnosis. My local shop said it was the worn front wishbones so they were replaced. It still does it. Brakes, emergency brake, suspension were all checked and OK. Software was upgraded around a year ago. What could it be?
Engine: 2.5L 5 cyls VIN: YV1SZ59H431099693 Transmission: Automatic 5-Speed Odometer: 104,000 mi. Body Style: XC70 AWD Station Wagon (4 Door)
We've recently had a service on our 2001 V70, oil, filters, plugs etc... and since then there's a message in the text bit of the dash saying "Engine System Service Required" and the cruise control has stopped working. There was also a "Service Required" light, but i got rid of that with the on/off press trip button thing.
There's no red or orange light on the dash and the message come's and goes... but the cruise control never works. (press the button but no CRUISE appears on the dash where it used to..
Now it get's weird....
I took it back to the garage (not a Volvo one) and they plugged in a computer and looked to find the error code .. but there isn't one they cleared the Error memory anyway and then tried car but Engine System Service Required .. Looked in memory, still no code..... they then looked in an other part of the car's memory (sorry for being vague!) and there was nothing there either.
Car off and back on ... no message ... car off and back on .. message ... and the CControl never works.
Their answer now is that there's nothing in the service that could have caused the problem and the say i need to take it to a Volve Garage - spending more money!!
Must add again, cos all the advice seems to centre around this ... there's no "Engine service" light on the dash. just the message....
Thanks for reading ... will be interested to see what the experts here make of it!!!
I thought everyone could use this. The following website has service and repair diagrams (free online) for nearly every part of your Volvo vehicle. Fair warning: some information contained herein appears as high-level details and is not intended to replace a much better, black-n-white printed service manual book. See http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php.
So about 5 mins from home today got the "OVER VOLTAGE PULL OVER" message today on the dash.. warning lights on the dash etc. Just before this happened I notice my ac was not cold. Made it home and left the car sit for about 2 hrs. Went back out and the message is gone. Took the car for a quick driver and everything seems ok, execpt the ac blew cold then nothing but warm air. Now the a/c compressor is new less than six months old and I know the over voltage is probably caused by my voltage regulator on its way out ( I think) I did pick up a voltage regulator. So is the voltage regulator on its way out or just got overloaded and does the ac compressor need to be checked.
I am buying a 2005 XC70 AWD from a dealer who had sold the car originally. It has just under 88K miles on it, and its two previous owners had it dealer-serviced, pretty much. The dealer has now replaced the brakes and put on 4 new tires, as well as the routine maintenance like lube, oil, etc. Also a software update. It really seems like a new car -- clean and shiny. I know dealers can pretty up used cars, but this one is really perfect in appearance.
So, do I need to spend $2000+ on an extended warranty from Volvo for the next 2 years? I am sure I would have spent at least that much to keep my beloved 1992 960 wagon on the road, which is now retiring, but can I assume this 2005 will be that needy, this young?
The dealer trying to sell me the warranty points out that this one has a lot more complicated high-tech parts that are expensive to deal with.
I am probably paying over book for the car as it is, don't want to waste any additional -- hope people can offer some advice on how likely this model is to break! Thanks!
I've had a few jobs done on my 2002 V70 D5 SE recently including new clutch, new front tyres + geometry and bottom engine mount which cleared up a number of issues I've been having with the car. In the background of all these, I've had a few dash problems which I've posted elsewhere and which I'm going to get fixed by sending the dash off to a repairer (any recommendations of a good one in the UK would be appreciated if anyone has any). These include; Clock timewarps, High Beam lamp on dash only working intermittently, spurious DIM messages - currently "Engine repair requested" and "Regular service needed" (it's a French car so I'm translating them to English). I've always assumed that these were just strange messages caused by the dash soldering issues. Today I took the car out for its first proper run since having the engine mounts done and when I reached the motorway, flicked on the Cruise Control as normal but nothing happened. No 'cruise' message on the dash and no cruise engaged. Could this be related to the dash issues and is it likely to be fixed when the dash is repaired? The dash faults seem to be a bit different to most but I'm hoping sending it off to a repairer will put all theses to bed.
EDIT: I've just been out to test a few things and it seems that starting the engine with the clutch pressed prevents the 'Engine repair requested' message being displayed and 'Cruise' will come up on the dash when I press the button so I'm guessing it's clutch related and not dodgy dash soldering related. Could this be the clutch position sensor? Is this a big job if it is? Typically, it's a bank holiday here today and the garage is closed for annual holidays for 10 days. Should I take the car off the road for this time? I guess I could remove the dash and send that off while I wait.
Have to change the front engine mount. I did see the video that FCP have, but that is based on a 850 and he is able to pull the mount out the top of the engine. Now after looking at mine there will be a lot of hoses wiring etc that will have to be moved to be able to pull it out through the top. If I jack the engine up high enough would I be able to pull it out through the bottom of the engine ?
When i drive i do notice a kind of weird noise from when i accelerate like theres fluid somewhere but only at certain rpms i believe. I dont notice anything bad but it just sounds strange. It seems like it is from the turbo could i maybe use this to help things? http://www.vivaperformance.com/tcv-in-line-filter/
And im going to add in a boost mount gauge. So i can tell all the time what i am boosting but as of right now i am at 12-13psi. I added a boost controller for $50 in. and i believe it increased my boost but i dont notice it getting any higher when i mess with it, could it be at a certain point that may be stopping it from getting higher?
Thanks for any feedback guys. Sorry about all the questions and links!
RE: '01 V70 T5....My lower control arm bushings and front strut/spring assembly seats need to be replaced. Does this repair require the engine to be raised or lifted up? If so, it occured to me that if the engine is raised I might as well replace the engine torque mounts.
I found about 4 to 5 inches of standing water in the pass. side, rear corner behind the tail lights. There was even water up inside the tail lights! This doesnt seem like a good thing to me, so can anyone tell me what I should do to fix the drainage problem? Or where its coming in?
Thanks for any help or insight!
This is the corner: [attachment=7356:IMG_8836.JPG]