1G (1995-2004) S40 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

COOLANT SENSOR. Usually located on the cylinder head or intake manifold, this sensor is used to monitor the temperature of the engine’s coolant. Its resistance changes in proportion to coolant temperature. Input from the coolant sensor tells the computer when the engine is warm so the PCM can go into closed loop feedback fuel control and handle other emission functions (EGR, canister purge, etc.) that may be temperature dependent.

Coolant Sensor Strategies: The coolant sensor is a pretty reliable sensor, but if it fails it can prevent the engine control system from going into closed loop. This will result in a rich fuel mixture, excessive fuel consumption and elevated carbon monoxide (CO) emissions - which may cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test.

A bad sensor can be diagnosed by measuring its resistance and watching for a change as the engine warms up. No change, or an open or closed reading would indicate a bad sensor.

OXYGEN (O2) SENSOR. Used on both carbureted and fuel injected engines since 1981, the oxygen (O2) sensor is the key sensor in the fuel mixture feedback control loop.

Mounted in the exhaust manifold, the O2 sensor monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. On many V6 and V8 engines, there are two such sensors (one for each bank of cylinders).

The O2 sensor generates a voltage signal that is proportional to the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the fuel mixture is rich, most of the oxygen is consumed during combustion so there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust inside the manifold and the air outside creates an electrical potential across the sensor’s platinum and zirconium tip. This causes the sensor to generate a voltage signal. The sensor’s output is high (up to 0.9v) when the fuel mixture is rich (low oxygen), and low (down to 0.1v) when the mixture is lean (high oxygen).

The sensor’s output is monitored by the computer and is used to rebalance the fuel mixture for lowest emissions. When the sensor reads "lean" the PCM increases the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go rich. Conversely, when the sensor reads "rich" the PCM shortens the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go lean. This causes a rapid back-and-forth switching from rich to lean and back again as the engine is running. These even waves result in an "average" mixture that is almost perfectly balanced for clean combustion. The switching rate is slowest in older feedback carburetors, faster is throttle body injection systems and fastest in multiport sequential fuel injection.

If the O2 sensor’s output is monitored on an oscilloscope, it will produce a zigzagging line that dances back and forth from rich to lean. Take a look at the waveform on the opposite page - that’s what a technician wants to see when he checks the O2 - think of it as a kind of heart monitor for the engine’s air/fuel mixture.

O2 Sensor Strategies: Unheated one- or two-wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s applications should be replaced every 30,000 to 50,000 miles to assure reliable performance. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s applications should be changed every 60,000 miles. On OBD II equipped vehicles, the recommended replacement interval is 100,000 miles. The O2 sensor’s responsiveness and voltage output can diminish with age and exposure to certain contaminants in the exhaust such as lead, sulfur, silicone (coolant leaks) and phosphorus (oil burning). If the sensor becomes contaminated, it may not respond very quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture causing a lag in the PCM’s ability to control the air/fuel mixture.

The sensor’s voltage output may decline giving a lower than normal reading. This may cause the PCM to react as if the fuel mixture were leaner than it really is resulting in an overly rich fuel mixture.

How common is this problem? One EPA study found that 70 percent of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2 sensor.

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR. This sensor is mounted on or connected to the intake manifold to monitor intake vacuum. It changes voltage or frequency as manifold pressure changes. The computer uses this information to measure engine load so ignition timing can be advanced and retarded as needed. It performs essentially the same job as the vacuum advance diaphragm on an old fashioned mechanical distributor.

On engines with a "speed density" type of fuel injection, the MAP sensor also helps the PCM estimate airflow. Problems here may cause an intermittent check engine light (light comes on when accelerating or when the engine is under load), hesitation when accelerating, elevated emissions and poor engine performance. The engine will run with a bad MAP sensor, but it will run poorly. Some PCMs can substitute "estimated data" for a missing or out of range MAP signal, but engine performance will be drastically reduced.

MAP Sensor Strategies: Some MAP sensor problems are not the fault of the sensor itself. If the vacuum hose that connects the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is loose, leaking or plugged, the sensor can’t produce an accurate signal. Also, if there is a problem within the engine itself that causes intake vacuum to be lower than normal (such as a vacuum leak, EGR valve that’s stuck open or leaky PCV hose), the MAP sensor’s readings may be lower than normal.

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. Mounted on the throttle shaft of the carburetor or throttle body, the throttle position sensor (TPS) changes resistance as the throttle opens and closes. The computer uses this information to monitor engine load, acceleration, deceleration and when the engine is at idle or wide open throttle. The sensor’s signal is used by the PCM to enrich the fuel mixture during acceleration, and to retard and advance ignition timing.

Throttle Position Sensor Strategies: Many TPS sensors require an initial voltage adjustment when installed. This adjustment is critical for accurate operation. On some engines, a separate idle switch and/or wide open throttle (WOT) switch may also be used. Driveability symptoms due to a bad TPS can be similar to those caused by a bad MAP sensor: The engine will run without this input, but it will run poorly.

MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR (MAF). Mounted ahead of the throttle body on multiport fuel injected engines, this sensor monitors the volume of air entering the engine. The sensor uses either a hot wire or heated filament to measure both airflow and air density.

MAF Sensor Strategies: The sensing element in MAF sensors can be easily contaminated causing hard starting, rough idle, hesitation and stalling problems.

VANE AIRFLOW SENSOR (VAF). The VAF has a mechanical flap-style sensor that is used on Bosch and other import multiport fuel injected engines. The function is the same as a mass airflow sensor, but air pushing against a spring-loaded flap moves a rheostat to generate an electronic signal.

VAF Sensor Strategies: The drivability symptoms for the VAF are the same as those of a mass airflow sensor if the sensor fails.

MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (MAT) SENSOR. Mounted on the intake manifold, this sensor changes resistance to monitor incoming air temperature. The sensor’s input is used to adjust the fuel mixture for changes in air density.

MAT Sensor Strategies: Problems with the manifold air temp sensor can affect the air/fuel mixture, causing the engine to run rich or lean.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. Used on engines with distributorless ignition systems, the crankshaft position sensor serves essentially the same purpose as the ignition pickup and trigger wheel in an electronic distributor. It generates a signal that the PCM needs to determine the position of the crankshaft and the number-one cylinder. This information is necessary to control ignition timing and the operation of the fuel injectors. The signal from the crank sensor also tells the PCM how fast the engine is running (engine rpm) so ignition timing can be advanced or retarded as needed. On some engines, a separate camshaft position sensor is also used to help the PCM determine the correct firing order. The engine will not run without this sensor’s input.

There are two basic types of crankshaft position sensors: magnetic and Hall effect. The magnetic type uses a magnet to sense notches in the crankshaft or harmonic balancer. As the notch passes underneath, it causes a change in the magnetic field that produces an alternating current signal.

The frequency of the signal gives the PCM the information it needs to control timing. The Hall effect type of crank sensor uses notches or shutter blades on the crank, cam gear or balancer to disrupt a magnetic field in the Hall effect sensor window. This causes the sensor to switch on and off, producing a digital signal that the PCM reads to determine crank position and speed.

Crank Position Sensor Strategies: If a crank position sensor fails, the engine will die. The engine may, however, still crank but it won’t start. Most problems can be traced to faults in the sensor’s wiring harness. A disruption of the sensor supply voltage (Hall effect types), ground or return circuits can cause a loss of the all-important timing signal.

KNOCK SENSOR. The knock sensor detects engine vibrations that indicate detonation is occurring so the computer can momentarily retard timing. Some engines have two knock sensors.

Knock Sensor Strategies: A failure with the knock sensor can cause spark knock and engine damaging detonation because the PCM won’t know to retard ignition timing if knock is occurring.

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR. The baro sensor measures barometric pressure so the computer can compensate for changes in altitude and/or barometric pressure that would affect the fuel mixture or timing. Some MAP sensors also perform this function.

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS). The vehicle speed sensor, or VSS, monitors vehicle speed so the computer can regulate torque converter clutch lockup, shifting, etc. The sensor may be located on the transmission, differential, transaxle or speedometer head.

Vehicle Speed Sensor Strategies: A problem with the vehicle speed sensor can disable the cruise-control system as well as affect transmission shifting and converter engagement.

Replacing a sensor won’t solve a drivability or emissions problem if the problem isn’t the sensor. Common conditions such as fouled spark plugs, bad plug wires, a weak ignition coil, a leaky EGR valve, vacuum leaks, low compression, dirty injectors, low fuel pressure or even low charging voltage can all cause driveability symptoms that may be blamed on a bad sensor. If there’s are no sensor-specific fault codes, these kinds of possibilities should be ruled out before much time is spent on electronic diagnosis.

I'm working on my friend's 2001 S40 which is stalling when she takes her foot off the gas. It requires pumping the gas while cranking to start, and her foot must be on the gas at all times to keep it running.

I've replaced the tps and cleaned the throttle body and iac thoroughly. While the car is idling infinitely better, the stalling problem persists.

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the car on, however I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to measure pressure at the fuel rail.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Good day

I have 2001 s40 which has doen about 110 000 kms, i bought it as a second hand vehicle from a friend with the intention of reselling it bu quickly fell in love with the car. I am not a mechanic but there are a few things i can do myself. May anyone please help, i notice recently whilst trying to change plugs oil under the cylinder head covers and unfortunately some had spilt into the spark plugs bay 2 and 4. Its a 4 Cylinder 1.8l and cannot find the leak. I check the leaks every week and they are getting worse.

Regards

Marshall

Replaced the temp sensor and thermostat about three months ago after getting a CEL and code (compliments of Advance Auto). Now I've got the same issue. Could the part have gone bad already? The car runs fine, temperature is fine, heat is good. Sign me confused....

Good Evening,

I have a 2004 Volvo S40 1.9t and I'm trying to remove the fuel filter. (I am not stalling or anything, I'm at 120K miles and just want to replace it...) There is an easy press disconnect from the tank to the filter, but there is a black plastics piece thats coming from the engine side towards the filter. I keep seeing people talking online about this tool with a part number 999-5666. Where can I find this tool because I can't get the thing off. Tried almost everything. Someone please help... Not trying to break it...

I have S40 2004, ~84000 km. Engine light tuned on, scanner showed a pair of P0015s, one pending. I decided to monitor with a scanner what is happening and found out that error code appears during engine cold start, after the car was parked for 5-6 hours or overnight. At first one error code appears as pending and after another cold start engine light comes up and I can see 2 of them. The same thing happens if I turn cold engine on and off two times in a row, but if I turn the cold engine on, let it run idle for 2 min, turn it off and on again, there is only one pending code sitting their.

I desided to test the car for a long drive in a mixed city/highway cycle. Cleaned the codes before that. Was driving for about 2.5 hours, with some stops, no error codes showed up. Then parked the car for couple of hours. After that start of the engine was clean.
I haven't noticed any changes in car performance, fuel consumption or overheating.

I did engine flush with Seafoam (used half of 473 ml can for 200 km), changed oil and filter after, put synthetic 5W30. Mechanic told me the filter was very dirty. He also checked CVVT solenoid, said it was a bit dirty. He cleaned it without taking apart. It clicks when power is applied. Still mechanic said he is not 100% sure that it working properly.
Anyway, nothing of that helped to get rid of error codes showing up.
I read some postings regarding P0015 and I am not sure what to do.
Any help is higly appreciated.

anyone could assist me solving the radio code? the info as follows:

HU-735( japan model)
VOLVO P30623158
model no: 34W343T/RJ-735-2
SERIAL NO: V03430 37149103

cheers [attachment=10244:2012_11_...18.01.45.jpg]

Hello forum!

I recently rear ended another vehicle on the way home from work! The Volvo's front end is okay with the exception of the hood, which shows signs of buckling. This occurs about two feet from the front of the hood on both sides. At the point of buckle, the hood pyramids upward about .5 inches.

I am wondering if anyone has had experience in replacing the hood themselves by swapping out the brackets holding the hood? The dealer wants to charge about $1600 for the repair, but I know it can be done for less and I may have fun doing it

Any warnings/suggestions would certainly be appreciated. I can post a photo if requested.

Hello!

I'm thinking of buying a 2000 s40 off a guy who claims his car is in limp mode due to a coolant temperature sensor. Does this sound right? I had never heard of this limp mode situation until today. (I'm a 240 guy) He claims the car has no "major" problems. runs good the pictures look good as well. The car is about a 2 hr drive from me so I'm just trying to figure out if it would be worth the drive to check it out. BTW it has 216k asking $800

Thanks!
Kevin

I'm trying to remove the front headlamps from a 2002 s40. My headlamps also have the wipers as well. What steps do I take to removing them out? I read steps to removing it without removing the bumper. Is there any pictures or video that can show me step by step. Also, is the headlamps seal or is it just held in with the metal clips? I was wondering if the headlamps needs resealing after opening. Thanks.

Hey guys, Well im thinking of buying a 2001 s40 from a used dealership, The cars currently has 106 thousand miles on but there's a couple of issues. first off the steering goes to left when goin straight idk if it needs an alignment second the check engine light is on, we asked and he said that it was do to the catalytic converter but theres no loud exhasut noise, there asking for 3500. should i take the deal ?

Is there a way to manually reset the radio ?
2001 S40

somehow the radio is stuck on "telephone" mode. turning to new source only works for a microsecond , then goes back to telephone.
I have taken the radio out / detached battery / fuse etc. then input the code = back to telephone.
tried to have key in 1 pos - left for 2.5 hours = nothing / tried again for 3.5 hours = nothing.
I did find a quarter in there and was hoping that was the issue = nope

currently have the radio out and taken some plates off looking for anything suspicious.
since I have it on the bench - is there a way I can reset it manually ?

thanks

My car has a Ecm32 code that wont go away even after replacement, trouble is when I first drive car everything is fine shut car off restart runs a little rough then DSL light comes on then car will not fall out of a tree,reread codes an ECM78 shows up for RPM sensor missing, have replaced an still comes back, scope pattern of sensor at plug looks OK, voltage 1.2 volts at 800 rpm. Help Hoze.

Hello good people,
I am new to the board. Hi to all.
Problem with my 1999 S40 and I need advice please. There is a sound when driving that sounds very much like wheel bearing hum. Took the car in to the dealer and problem was diagnosed as front wheel bearings.
I bought the bearings and replaced both sides.
Sound still there! So I thought that it could be the rear wheel bearings and replaced them as well. Guess what! Noise still there!!!!
Took the car back to the dealer this past week and they now recon it is tyre noise.
According to them the worst tyres you can have on your S40 are Pirelli. That happens to be the tyres I have on the car.
Now the wheel bearing episode was very expensive and before I replace the tyres, please help!!!!!!!!
Has anyone on the board had similar problems? Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lhr.

Hey Guys, Brand new to the site and not really sure of the protocol for posting, so please forgive me for any mistakes I may make.

Here's where I am hoping someone can lend me some help. I recently purchased a 2000 Volvo S40 turbo. The car runs great and no engine code issues, but at cold idle,I have a rough vibration through the steering column and dash. No stumble, or miss fire, just a vibration. It does decline when engine warms, but it's always there. I should note that when the engine is at operating temp, the vibration is a little less pronounced when the trans is in Reverse, than when in drive or N or P. The car also has a pronounced "deep" bassy exhaust sound when cold, that too declines when engine warms. I have read many solutions online that don't seem to apply to my situation. The car has aprox 128k miles, running 93 octane, recently switched to 87 octane plus lucas Fuel treatment additive for octane boost to cut fuel cost. Vibration with 93 and 87 fuel.

I have verified that all the engine mounts are very good, even changing the rear right, and trans mount. I have also verified that the sub frame mounts are good and installed correctly. I have checked compression (#1-160 psi, #2-160 psi, #3-165 psi, #4-170 psi) and it's balanced and well within spec. I verified that the exhaust system is mounted correctly and that it doesn't touch the chassis anywhere it shouldn't. I did check all the spark plugs and did notice that they are a bit carbonized or black (not gray), which may indicate a "rich" fuel mixture. They were all properly gapped.

I have read all about the various sensors that affect fuel mixture, but I haven't any "codes", so don't know where to start looking. I did read where the S40 turbo (non GDI) engine utilizes a "wasted spark" ignition system, meaning each spark plug fires at the top of the compression stroke as well as the top of the exhaust stroke. Is it possible fouled injectors could cause fuel injection/ignition during the exhaust stroke, and thus create this "vibration"?

I am out of ideas, and appreciate any help anyone can offer.

Hi
I have a1998 s40 t4 with 230000 kms. recently i have had the dsa light and engine check triangle light come on spasmodically. this then causes engine to run rough especially on idle. then after a few minutes it clears and the engine runs ok. light stay on. sometimes only the dsa stays on. when i leave car and restart prob goes away.
has appeared under full load but appeared yesterday on slow idling in a car park. is this an issue with the throttle body or ecu or map sensor. would cleaning throttle body help

I have a 2001 Volvo S40 Turbo and have been having problems with the heater/AC Fan/Blower for about a year or so. The first problem is that no matter what setting I have the fan set to (off or 1-5) it will randomly turn onto full blast for a few seconds and then turn back to wherever it was originally set. This happens every time I drive the car - multiple times. Second problem is that sometimes the AC will not get cold and the heater will not get hot. This happens sporadically, but sometimes it works perfectly... The most recent problem has happened twice in the last week - The fan/blower will not turn on at all, but after i get to wherever I was going and restart the car it will work fine. Any ideas....??

Hi All,
Can anyone tell me where I may get a new indicator assembly? My (L) indicator doesn't return to neutral position after I have completed a turn. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, John

Hi -

2001 S40 , unit has been working fine. Next time on the display says "telephone" , wont let me change to any other mode (input a tape / cd wont work either)
I unhooked the battery to reset it , it asked for the code, input the code - right back to "telephone"

any suggestions ?

Thanks

I have a 2000 Volvo S40 with roughly 157,000 miles on it. I had an issue with the car idling rough at stop lights and while in park. I took in to the mechanic and was told that I have a fuel pressure regulator that's leaking which caused fuel to get on the MAF. I was told that if I just drive the car around for a few days the MAF would dry out and be ok. While they had my car they inspected it closer and found that I had an oil leak that was getting oil on my timing belt. Ending up replacing the timing belt and the variable camshaft timing actuator.

Took the car home, it was still idling rough at lights but I figured the MAF hadn't "dried out" yet. A few days later the idle got so bad that I had to have my foot on the gas to keep the car running. Ending up unplugging the MAF and taking it back to the mechanic to get that replaced. At the end of this visit I was told I was throwing a code for a bad MAP sensor still but again was told that I should be able to drive it for a while like this without any major issues.

A little over 24 hours later I'm sitting at a stop light with my defrost on (it's cold and rainy here) and the car just dies; no high temp, no rough idle, just died. I tried to restart it and it dies immediately. I again tried to restart the car and it won't even turn over but I still have all my electrical things working (wipers, lights, ect.)

Could this be a MAP sensor causing this problem or could it be something much more expensive than that? I've spent over $1400 already in the past week and half on this car and was quoted $150 to replace the MAP sensor. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

my 2000 v40 ha passenger side low beam out. i have power in the fuse under the hood, no power at the connector to the head light though. PLEASE if anyone has the answer please don't hesitate to submit your answer thanks very much!!!

I have a 2002 S40 that has the check engine light on. I tried to get it scanned, but they said something was wrong with the ODBII port and they couldn't read the codes. Is there a way to read the codes without the scanner? I have had a couple of other cars that you could read the codes by pushing a strange combination of buttons on the dash and they would show on the odometer or the radio.

Help

I was driving to work this morning and heard a funny noise as I came in to the parking lot at work.

After a look look and many phone calls i discovered that the timing belt had come loose and probably slipped witch means the timing is now horribly out.

Please enlighten me on what could have caused the belt tensioner to come lose.

The Belt is still fine

Oh yeah and obviously it won't start.

Please any advice would be appreciated.

Hey all, Im new to the forum but I thought I'd describe a fix I did today. I drive a 2003 S40, no major upgrades.

Was driving at night when I noticed one headlight was out. Went to replace the bulb and I guess I pressed too hard when plugging the electrical connector into the bulb and I heard a snap. After a little research, it seems the plastic piece connecting the reflector&bulb assembly to the main headlight housing is VERY FLIMSY, and had broken. It is apparently a fairly common issue, which is why I thought Id write up my version of a fix. Save yourself a $150+ and give this a shot if you're up to it.

(1) Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle. This is REALLY easy, and is detailed below. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE/LOOSEN THE BUMPER. Just watch your angles as you are removing the headlamp assembly, its pretty easy....Remember to disconnect the single electrical connector that plugs into the rear of the headlamp assembly, and also remove the two rubber covers over the individual bulbs.


(2) Im going to assume you have the headlight separated. The reflector/bulb assembly (if you're looking into the headlight assembly from the rear, its the silver piece that houses the two bulbs) attaches to the main headlight housing at three locations. At the bottom (inferior) end of the headlight it is attached very firmly via the "vertical headlight adjuster", a thick whitish plastic piece (SITE 3). This is the strongest point of connection and is rarely broken. SITE 2 was never an attached connection between the two pieces, and is simply a ball-socket joint. I decided to reinforce this site anyways since the only other connector was broken. SITE 1 shown in the images is the piece that broken. Unfortunately, failure of this tiny black piece is common as the piece is very brittle, and will cause the reflector/bulb assembly to wobble around. Normal driving conditions and bumps would surely break and damage the headlight if not corrected.



(3)Now on to the fun part. I used 3 zip ties at both Sites 1 and 2. Superglue simply did not hold, and I have found that with 3 zipties it is very stable with no wobble. The idea is to get 1 zip tie around each broken piece, then use a third zip tie to connect these. It is easiest if you get the first two zipties around the individual pieces, tighten it a little bit, but make sure you can still squeeze a third ziptie through each ziptie ring in order to attach the first 2 ties. Then tighten the hell out of all 3 (do the 2 around the individual pieces first, then the tie connecting the two pieces). Hopefully the images will help clear up what im getting at. It is a little difficult as you have to stick your tools/instruments through the rear of the headlight assembly (where the rubber covers were), but it can be done.




(4) Do site 2 the exact same way. One tie for each of the two individual pieces, then a third tie to connect them. Again, make sure you have the three ties connected to each other loosely, then tighten the ties attached to the two individual pieces, then finally the connector tie last. You really have to tighten the first 2 ties like hell so it doesnt wobble. I found that if I pulled the end of the ziptie with a long and thin needlenose while pressing on the locking mechanism (of the ziptie) with a flathead it was able to tighten it enough.




(5) I found that once I had tightened the zipties at sites 1 and 2, the entire unit was VERY solid. The vertical adjustment knob for the lights also worked, however, I have not tried the horizontal adjuster.

(6) Replace the headlamp assembly. Ive been driving on it for a couple days and it's still solid, will update in a few weeks or when it breaks. Again, Im a broke student and just saved myself $150 (new headlight assay) or more if a mechanic did it.

Notes:
*I will admit that getting the three zipties in the correct location is fairly difficult and time consuming. I was lucky enough to have some surgical clamps and forceps, which made it a lot easier, but it can be done with a pair of long/thin needlenose pliers or two and some patience.
*Feel free to PM me with questions and what not.

No interior lights,radio,alarm system,auto door locks;clock,trip odmeter resets
i have checked all the fusses, would this indicate a relay.? please please help...

Hi,

This is my first time when i write here.
Today I choose to replace my old HU-605 with an aftermarket new stereo.
Beside speakers wires (8), the new stereo has only 4 wires more (red ACC - Power lead, yellow - battery lead 15A, blak - Ground lead, blue - motor antena).
But my old connector has many more wires.

I downloaded from internet the radio diagarm (see attachment) and I'm still confused.
Ex: inside the car I have one thin red wire and one thick orange wire (although I din't find any orange on schema just reds), one thin black wire and one thick black.
The new stereo has one black and one red by the same thickness...

Could someone help me with some indications?

Thanks.

Hello everybody. I am new to the volvo ownership, a after driving her around for a bit I realized I would like to beef her up a bi. However, I have searched an searched an I can not find any place to get aftermarket parts for this vehicle. Any suggestions?

I have a 2001 volvo s40 and the arrow flashes at times. It only comes on when the car is idling in the park position and if i put it in drive without shutting off the engine and starting it again, it jumps right into gear really hard. Any help would be apprecited. Thanks

I bought a 2001 S40 1.9T a month or so ago. Don't have a lot of service history on it so I don't know what all may, or may not, have been done.

Got it when it had 76,000 and it now has 78,500.


Just had a CEL come on, and the place I use for most all my mechanic work pulled the codes, which came up as cam position sensor. My guy tells me that it could be the belt, the sensor, or both.

I'm wondering which would be more likely based on the thought that both are original parts.

Would you replace the belt to see what happens, and then do the sensor if the belt doesn't solve the problem?


TIA....




Would like to not mess up the engine as my long range thoughts are to pull the drive train and put it into an old Corvair down the road...

Well maintained 01 S40 with just intake and MBC @12PSI in otherwise good health.

Recent fuel filter

My car will hesitate and misfire on different cylinders at hardish and full throttle with the dreaded flashing CEL. Sometimes it just flashes and has a pending code, then if not cleared after a few WOTs it will go steady and have a real code. I have tried swapping coils and wires, even using a brand new coil. I have replaced all the plugs too. Then I thought it was following the injector when I swapped those around, so I got another complete injector/rail/FPR setup from another boneyard. It seemed to help a little but its still there. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator? I don't have a gas odor or hard starts like I did when the FPR was bad when I first got the car. It would explain starving injectors right? Or could my pump be bad? So frustrating!

I'm aware of the damage misfires can cause, so I really hate having to force them to test possible solutions.

Otherwise the car runs great and at most throttle positions theres no issue. I don't get it! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 2002 S40 that has treated me well over the years. recently I have been getting into the car to start it up and getting nothing in return. The radio/dash/lights will come on but the car will not turn over. this often happens after I turn the car off and then try to start it again in less than a 4 hr window. The problem has been getting progressively worse and now will occasionally happen on cold starts of 8hrs+.

To remedy the problem I have been loosening the +terminal and repositioning it, tightening it and then starting. Often times it will start right back up but from time to time I will have to reposition the terminal several times before it starts. I have cleaned the terminals and sanded them down to get the best connection but It still continues to happen.

The + cable at the terminal does look a bit rusy and a few frayed bits of copper. I can supply pictures if it will help.

I would like some advise as to what to try next. Its getting a bit embarrassing to continually lift the hood and tinker with the battery every time I stop.

Thanks everyone,

Nate

I have multiple deep scratches throughout my car. What procedure and products should I use to fill and paint?

Hello Everyone! First time poster, but will no doubt be back from time to time!

My friend has just bought a somewhat modified S40 the 200bhp version...now previous owner turned the boost up to 1.5 bar (22psi to all intents) but sold the car to my friend and said 'if you hit 1.5 the engine WILL pop', so obviously want to turn the wastegate back and drop the power down to something more manageable.

So facing the waste gate is it clockwise or counterclockwise and does anyone know what psi you drop per turn? I found another post that said 5 turns = 40bhp. My Plan was to turn it down to something definitely safe, drive it into boost see where it gets to and then turn it back up from there.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping that someone can help with my problem.

I've just changed the coil packs on my 2002 s40, an easy job I know, but when i put the cover back on I pinched two wires that go to something on the left hand side of the head. One blue wire, one red. I dont think that the wires broke but the wires were visible.

Now the engine wont crank at all, all the lights come on on the dash but when the key turns to start, nothing.

Ive checked all the fuses, none blown, so this is were I'm stumped......what could it be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hello,
I have a 2001 S40. The vehicle starts and runs fine, however after starting all of the LED type gauges flash and the needle type gauges remain flat on the pegs. After 15 to 20 minutes the needle gauges start to flicker and then all of the instrument panel starts to work. Volvo blamed it on the after market remote starter or the after market radio. The problem existed prior to the radio being installed and I have had the remote starter professionaly removed. I have taken it to an independent instrument dealer and their offer was to replace the entire instrument cluster. I declined that offer without even asking how much that woould cost....Any and all thoughts are welcome...

I need help installing fog lights for my 2002 S40 1.9T. I have the connector for the fog lights and i already have the housing and all. I cant turn on the fog lights. I have the OEM cable and i tested it with a meter and it read 5V. I plug the bulb w/ adapter onto the connecter and the wire snakes through up somewhere, i dont know where. When i press the fog switch it wouldnt turn on. If the switch doesnt work then I will install using the MSPaint drawn picture w/ switch, but i wont use the indicator. I have a relay and 12AWG cables to wire up the fog lights to a new aftermarket switch, but im looking to install factory right now. I dont know what the issue is with the fog lights. Please help!

PS: It's not a fuse issue, fuse is fine. I think it might be the green connector issue? Which color wire are the Front Fog Lights? Also I don't know if the car had fog lights installed or not.

Hey Guys, i was wondering, am i the only one to realize that my s40 which has the 2.0 nonturbo sounds supercharged?.....whenever im accelerating my car sounds like it has a little supercharger....even when revving i hear it...also when revving and the revs come back down...its like supercharger.......anyone else sees this wit these cars ? reason being persons are asking if my car is supercharged...tempting to tell them YES lol

Hi, I've got a windshield wiper problem that I hope someone else has experienced...

Symptoms:
* Wipers do not park. They stop anywhere on the windshield when the stalk is released.
* Intermittent function does not work. Nada, nothing.
* Wipers do not operate when washers are activated. The washers spray but the wiper arms don't move.
* Slow and fast speed wiper function works normally.
* The one swipe function works as long as the stalk is held, once the stalk is released, the wiper arms stop anywhere on the windshield.

What I know:
* Both fuses are good and doing their job
* Motor was replaced with a rebuilt unit but the above symptoms remained.

If you have encountered this problem, please chime-in!!!

Chris

I have a 2003 s40, and about a week ago my right lowbeam headlight went out. I've replaced the bulb and checked the fuse but alas nothing wrong there.
I am getting 11 ish volts at the socket while the bulb is not plugged in. But when the bulb is plugged in, the voltage drops to 0 Volts. what could be causing the power to fail while under a load but work otherwise? Is it the CEM and if so how do I make sure? Also, everything on the car is stock. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm trying to install an amp into my 2002 volvo s40 1.9t.The problem i faced was when I was trying to run a power cable through the passenger side. I was trying to remove the glove compartment, but there were metal circular tabs that held it in place. I can't remove it, but it has a whole in the center. If any of you guys have installed an amp on this car can you help post picture or idea as to how to do the firewall and power cable? thanks

Hi Guys,

I am attempting to post pictures so hopefully I did this right.

I am trying to replace a part on my 2000 Volvo S40 (turbo), but I simply don't know what the part is. I have inserted three images into this post to reference the part.

[attachment=9928:volvo2.jpg]
[attachment=9929:volvo4.jpg]
[attachment=9930:volvo5.jpg]

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all, this is my first post (probably of many)

does anyone know (without cutting through the lid) how I can open the bonnet.
The release lever in the car is loose when you tug it, so the cable must have become detached from the opener at the bonnet end.

I have tried pushing my arm under the car and moving the release lever, but this does not work, no matter how hard I try?

I think I need to do something with the catch (which is tantalisingly close and visible behind the grill)

Any help appreciated.

thanks.

12V outlet stopped on my 2002 S40. Is there a fuse I should be check? Where is it. If not what is process for replacing it. Thank you

2001 S-40, horn button is not working well. I will assume it's the contact under the steering wheel. What torn/ allen size is needed to remove the steering wheel. I can see, with a mirror, that there are two bolts holding the airbag assembly on...I need to get that off to get to the horn ring.

On my 95- 850, I did a fairly simple PCV / breather box replacement. It involved removing the intake manifold, but went smoothly. I found the PCV system was clogged and yucky. Do we have these on the 2001 S40'S? If so, anyone done one? Tutorial?

As long as we are talking transmissions (a few posts back)...I have a 2001 with 100+ miles. I would like to do a drain and fill. What fluid do I use? Automatic, not manual. Since it is a 'drain and fill', the fluid has to be compatable with what is left in the unit until I drain and fill again. I have heard to use Synthetic, but am concerned about compatibility. If not Synth...then what? Oh, and how to I find out which tranny I actually have....I understand that different models have diff. specs.

Hello. I have a 2002 S40 1.9 that I'm trying to sell so I can buy a newer Volvo. A guy and his wife came to look at the car and he said that he loved the car but that the play in the steering was something that he'd have to have fixed. OK, so he may have been blowing smoke because there is some, but not much play. However, I decided that I'd have it checked out and maybe agree to knock the repair cost off of the sales price. In lieu of driving the 20 miles to my usual shop, I took it to the guys who did my alignment. They said that the rack, tie rod, ball joints, etc., look fine. But they said that the play is caused by an intermediate steering shaft and they didn't know how much it would cost to fix, but it wasn't a big issue and certainly wouldn't affect safety or driveability. Has anyone ever replaced an intermediate steering shaft and know how much it typically costs?

Thanks...mcrg00

I recently bought a 2001 S40 with 65k miles.

A few questions:

I had a check engine light, with the code for misfire on cyl #4 (p304?)
I replaced the plugs with bosch coppers, and of course I made the gap correct.
It improved acceleration a lot, but if I really get on it the light flashes, and same error comes back. It accelerates better than before, and you really need to get on it now, more than before, for the light to come on.
I noticed that at idle it is fine, in park at 1500 it is a little uneven, and smooths right out at 1700 and above.
With the low miles, and the plugs now replaced, and better performance as a result, I am starting to think it may be the coil pack on #4. I thought that would mess up #1 & #4, but I am not sure.

Any ideas?


Also, since this is a 2001, and because of age, should I go with a timing belt change? I looked at the belt while I was in replacing the plugs, and it appears fine, but who knows....

finally got a set of coilovers for my 2000 s40 but i can't work out how they fit. the upper mounts and brake line bits are right but the bottom mounts are missing. any ideas? stumped myself.

Is there at this forum (USA people) that are interested in a Diesel conversion for s40/v40? You can get great MPG. Up to 45-48 MPG on the highway. Depends on the engine. (1.9D or 1.9TD). How much do you want to pay for a complete conversion set?