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COOLANT SENSOR. Usually located on the cylinder head or intake manifold, this sensor is used to monitor the temperature of the engineís coolant. Its resistance changes in proportion to coolant temperature. Input from the coolant sensor tells the computer when the engine is warm so the PCM can go into closed loop feedback fuel control and handle other emission functions (EGR, canister purge, etc.) that may be temperature dependent.
Coolant Sensor Strategies: The coolant sensor is a pretty reliable sensor, but if it fails it can prevent the engine control system from going into closed loop. This will result in a rich fuel mixture, excessive fuel consumption and elevated carbon monoxide (CO) emissions - which may cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test.
A bad sensor can be diagnosed by measuring its resistance and watching for a change as the engine warms up. No change, or an open or closed reading would indicate a bad sensor.
OXYGEN (O2) SENSOR. Used on both carbureted and fuel injected engines since 1981, the oxygen (O2) sensor is the key sensor in the fuel mixture feedback control loop.
Mounted in the exhaust manifold, the O2 sensor monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. On many V6 and V8 engines, there are two such sensors (one for each bank of cylinders).
The O2 sensor generates a voltage signal that is proportional to the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the fuel mixture is rich, most of the oxygen is consumed during combustion so there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust inside the manifold and the air outside creates an electrical potential across the sensorís platinum and zirconium tip. This causes the sensor to generate a voltage signal. The sensorís output is high (up to 0.9v) when the fuel mixture is rich (low oxygen), and low (down to 0.1v) when the mixture is lean (high oxygen).
The sensorís output is monitored by the computer and is used to rebalance the fuel mixture for lowest emissions. When the sensor reads "lean" the PCM increases the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go rich. Conversely, when the sensor reads "rich" the PCM shortens the on-time of the injectors to make the fuel mixture go lean. This causes a rapid back-and-forth switching from rich to lean and back again as the engine is running. These even waves result in an "average" mixture that is almost perfectly balanced for clean combustion. The switching rate is slowest in older feedback carburetors, faster is throttle body injection systems and fastest in multiport sequential fuel injection.
If the O2 sensorís output is monitored on an oscilloscope, it will produce a zigzagging line that dances back and forth from rich to lean. Take a look at the waveform on the opposite page - thatís what a technician wants to see when he checks the O2 - think of it as a kind of heart monitor for the engineís air/fuel mixture.
O2 Sensor Strategies: Unheated one- or two-wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s applications should be replaced every 30,000 to 50,000 miles to assure reliable performance. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s applications should be changed every 60,000 miles. On OBD II equipped vehicles, the recommended replacement interval is 100,000 miles. The O2 sensorís responsiveness and voltage output can diminish with age and exposure to certain contaminants in the exhaust such as lead, sulfur, silicone (coolant leaks) and phosphorus (oil burning). If the sensor becomes contaminated, it may not respond very quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture causing a lag in the PCMís ability to control the air/fuel mixture.
The sensorís voltage output may decline giving a lower than normal reading. This may cause the PCM to react as if the fuel mixture were leaner than it really is resulting in an overly rich fuel mixture.
How common is this problem? One EPA study found that 70 percent of the vehicles that failed an I/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2 sensor.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR. This sensor is mounted on or connected to the intake manifold to monitor intake vacuum. It changes voltage or frequency as manifold pressure changes. The computer uses this information to measure engine load so ignition timing can be advanced and retarded as needed. It performs essentially the same job as the vacuum advance diaphragm on an old fashioned mechanical distributor.
On engines with a "speed density" type of fuel injection, the MAP sensor also helps the PCM estimate airflow. Problems here may cause an intermittent check engine light (light comes on when accelerating or when the engine is under load), hesitation when accelerating, elevated emissions and poor engine performance. The engine will run with a bad MAP sensor, but it will run poorly. Some PCMs can substitute "estimated data" for a missing or out of range MAP signal, but engine performance will be drastically reduced.
MAP Sensor Strategies: Some MAP sensor problems are not the fault of the sensor itself. If the vacuum hose that connects the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is loose, leaking or plugged, the sensor canít produce an accurate signal. Also, if there is a problem within the engine itself that causes intake vacuum to be lower than normal (such as a vacuum leak, EGR valve thatís stuck open or leaky PCV hose), the MAP sensorís readings may be lower than normal.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. Mounted on the throttle shaft of the carburetor or throttle body, the throttle position sensor (TPS) changes resistance as the throttle opens and closes. The computer uses this information to monitor engine load, acceleration, deceleration and when the engine is at idle or wide open throttle. The sensorís signal is used by the PCM to enrich the fuel mixture during acceleration, and to retard and advance ignition timing.
Throttle Position Sensor Strategies: Many TPS sensors require an initial voltage adjustment when installed. This adjustment is critical for accurate operation. On some engines, a separate idle switch and/or wide open throttle (WOT) switch may also be used. Driveability symptoms due to a bad TPS can be similar to those caused by a bad MAP sensor: The engine will run without this input, but it will run poorly.
MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR (MAF). Mounted ahead of the throttle body on multiport fuel injected engines, this sensor monitors the volume of air entering the engine. The sensor uses either a hot wire or heated filament to measure both airflow and air density.
MAF Sensor Strategies: The sensing element in MAF sensors can be easily contaminated causing hard starting, rough idle, hesitation and stalling problems.
VANE AIRFLOW SENSOR (VAF). The VAF has a mechanical flap-style sensor that is used on Bosch and other import multiport fuel injected engines. The function is the same as a mass airflow sensor, but air pushing against a spring-loaded flap moves a rheostat to generate an electronic signal.
VAF Sensor Strategies: The drivability symptoms for the VAF are the same as those of a mass airflow sensor if the sensor fails.
MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (MAT) SENSOR. Mounted on the intake manifold, this sensor changes resistance to monitor incoming air temperature. The sensorís input is used to adjust the fuel mixture for changes in air density.
MAT Sensor Strategies: Problems with the manifold air temp sensor can affect the air/fuel mixture, causing the engine to run rich or lean.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. Used on engines with distributorless ignition systems, the crankshaft position sensor serves essentially the same purpose as the ignition pickup and trigger wheel in an electronic distributor. It generates a signal that the PCM needs to determine the position of the crankshaft and the number-one cylinder. This information is necessary to control ignition timing and the operation of the fuel injectors. The signal from the crank sensor also tells the PCM how fast the engine is running (engine rpm) so ignition timing can be advanced or retarded as needed. On some engines, a separate camshaft position sensor is also used to help the PCM determine the correct firing order. The engine will not run without this sensorís input.
There are two basic types of crankshaft position sensors: magnetic and Hall effect. The magnetic type uses a magnet to sense notches in the crankshaft or harmonic balancer. As the notch passes underneath, it causes a change in the magnetic field that produces an alternating current signal.
The frequency of the signal gives the PCM the information it needs to control timing. The Hall effect type of crank sensor uses notches or shutter blades on the crank, cam gear or balancer to disrupt a magnetic field in the Hall effect sensor window. This causes the sensor to switch on and off, producing a digital signal that the PCM reads to determine crank position and speed.
Crank Position Sensor Strategies: If a crank position sensor fails, the engine will die. The engine may, however, still crank but it wonít start. Most problems can be traced to faults in the sensorís wiring harness. A disruption of the sensor supply voltage (Hall effect types), ground or return circuits can cause a loss of the all-important timing signal.
KNOCK SENSOR. The knock sensor detects engine vibrations that indicate detonation is occurring so the computer can momentarily retard timing. Some engines have two knock sensors.
Knock Sensor Strategies: A failure with the knock sensor can cause spark knock and engine damaging detonation because the PCM wonít know to retard ignition timing if knock is occurring.
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR. The baro sensor measures barometric pressure so the computer can compensate for changes in altitude and/or barometric pressure that would affect the fuel mixture or timing. Some MAP sensors also perform this function.
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS). The vehicle speed sensor, or VSS, monitors vehicle speed so the computer can regulate torque converter clutch lockup, shifting, etc. The sensor may be located on the transmission, differential, transaxle or speedometer head.
Vehicle Speed Sensor Strategies: A problem with the vehicle speed sensor can disable the cruise-control system as well as affect transmission shifting and converter engagement.
Replacing a sensor wonít solve a drivability or emissions problem if the problem isnít the sensor. Common conditions such as fouled spark plugs, bad plug wires, a weak ignition coil, a leaky EGR valve, vacuum leaks, low compression, dirty injectors, low fuel pressure or even low charging voltage can all cause driveability symptoms that may be blamed on a bad sensor. If thereís are no sensor-specific fault codes, these kinds of possibilities should be ruled out before much time is spent on electronic diagnosis.
Got a rumbling over 70mph and some impressive tyre wear on the off side front of my 2002 s40. How easy is a bearing change? Can only really be that as have had some vibrations before and was unsure if it was a thrust bearing in the clutch, or wheel bearing.
hi i am having problems with our s40 it runs fine for about an hour then it seems to run rich, won't rev out properly and then dies. if we let it sit for about an hour then it all works fine again. not sure if it is heat related the thermo fans seem to work sometimes and then not others it could just be that it isn't that hot the temp gauge always sits somewhere around a quarter. has anyone had this problem and then found a solution?
we are in northern nsw so the ambient temp at the moment is usually around 30 degrees
[size="2"][/size][color="#000000"][/color]I just got done changing the waterpump and the timing belt ( which I am not 100% sure if it is timed correctly). I did this because I was heating up fast and sometimes ( only sometimes) my Volvo was leaking water. Also I can't afford the mechanic costs so I buckled down and with a friend managed to do this. Now the car still gets very hot ( but only to the half way mark) and still sometimes ( only sometimes) leaks water. What is it that I can check to hopefully find out what the reason for my car's heating up is? And if this post is in the wrong section I totally apologize , I literally just signed up and don't know my way around yet. My husband just called and told me that he thinks the thermostat isn't working because the car got really hot and the hoses were hot and the water was really hot too. But isn't the water be allowed to heat up a little when you are driving the car?
I have recently purchased a S40 and have found that the spring is broken on the passenger side. I have looked into the needed items to fix the problem and have found that there is no quick strut that can be purchased. I am from Iowa, U.S. and was wondering if maybe there is a site from over seas that I could order a quick strut from? Any information will help that I can go from and easily install it rather than a possibility of hurting myself trying to compress this spring.
This post is pretty much a request for help from a wide group of people who know Volvo's:
Problem: The head lights on my 1999 Volvo S40 1.8 only work when the lightswitch is set to the "0" position. The second position is the side lights, the third normal lights. These both do nothing with the front head lights anymore, side lights work and in all 3 positions the led below the lightswitch is green.
Extended info: - About 2 weeks ago I noticed that I couldn't 'lock' the indicator switch towards me to lock the big beam (idk the English word for it) into place. The lights work, but I have to keep pulling the lever towards me, can't lock into place. - About 1 week ago I discovered when parking my Volvo (in daylight) that the front headlights were not on > When I swiched the lightswitch to '0' they went on, the other 2 settings do nothing with the headlights. - Tonight I came to my parked Volvo and the taillights were on. (not sure if it was the brakes or normal taillights) fortunately it didn't drain my battery.
I'm going to bring my Volvo to a mechanic which repairs cars next to his job as service engineer of pneumatic car tools. Untill he gets his hands on my car, I'd like to know if this problem has occurred to one of the persons reading my topic and if there are any solutions/tips/etc.
Upon startup the other day the V40 motor just didn't sound right... it had a clack-clack-clack noise going on, like some kind of metal to metal thing. It is also losing water out of the passenger side somewhere.
I have S40 2004, ~84000 km. Engine light tuned on, scanner showed a pair of P0015s, one pending. I decided to monitor with a scanner what is happening and found out that error code appears during engine cold start, after the car was parked for 5-6 hours or overnight. At first one error code appears as pending and after another cold start engine light comes up and I can see 2 of them. The same thing happens if I turn cold engine on and off two times in a row, but if I turn the cold engine on, let it run idle for 2 min, turn it off and on again, there is only one pending code sitting their.
I desided to test the car for a long drive in a mixed city/highway cycle. Cleaned the codes before that. Was driving for about 2.5 hours, with some stops, no error codes showed up. Then parked the car for couple of hours. After that start of the engine was clean. I haven't noticed any changes in car performance, fuel consumption or overheating.
I did engine flush with Seafoam (used half of 473 ml can for 200 km), changed oil and filter after, put synthetic 5W30. Mechanic told me the filter was very dirty. He also checked CVVT solenoid, said it was a bit dirty. He cleaned it without taking apart. It clicks when power is applied. Still mechanic said he is not 100% sure that it working properly. Anyway, nothing of that helped to get rid of error codes showing up. I read some postings regarding P0015 and I am not sure what to do. Any help is higly appreciated.
I have a 2000 Volvo S40 with roughly 157,000 miles on it. I had an issue with the car idling rough at stop lights and while in park. I took in to the mechanic and was told that I have a fuel pressure regulator that's leaking which caused fuel to get on the MAF. I was told that if I just drive the car around for a few days the MAF would dry out and be ok. While they had my car they inspected it closer and found that I had an oil leak that was getting oil on my timing belt. Ending up replacing the timing belt and the variable camshaft timing actuator.
Took the car home, it was still idling rough at lights but I figured the MAF hadn't "dried out" yet. A few days later the idle got so bad that I had to have my foot on the gas to keep the car running. Ending up unplugging the MAF and taking it back to the mechanic to get that replaced. At the end of this visit I was told I was throwing a code for a bad MAP sensor still but again was told that I should be able to drive it for a while like this without any major issues.
A little over 24 hours later I'm sitting at a stop light with my defrost on (it's cold and rainy here) and the car just dies; no high temp, no rough idle, just died. I tried to restart it and it dies immediately. I again tried to restart the car and it won't even turn over but I still have all my electrical things working (wipers, lights, ect.)
Could this be a MAP sensor causing this problem or could it be something much more expensive than that? I've spent over $1400 already in the past week and half on this car and was quoted $150 to replace the MAP sensor. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
IF YOU HAVE ALSO HAD THIS ISSUE THEN THIS IS THE FIX.. (hopefully)
Been out to the car today to go out and started the car, noticed on the dash that there we're no instruments working.
Where the milometer usually is, it says "pin code". We tried the normal pushing the trip reset button in to no avail.
We then messed about for around half an hour, looking at various forums and videos with no results. We then disconnected the battery for around 20-30 mins. Came back to car, and reconnected the battery.. All is now working.
PLEASE NOTE: Ensure that you have the radio pin BEFORE preforming this as if you do not, the radio WILL NOT work.
Will update if any further issues arise from this!
Decided as I got myself a silver 2002 s40 to do the btcc rep. Found a place for the wrap so at this very minute I'm watching a guy sand the custom front bumper prior to paint. Getting the alloy spoiler and sparco strut brace done at the same time. Pics to follow.
I'm looking at buying a used car (i'm 17). When looking around, i've noticed that used volvos are fairly inexpensive. My question is why? I have found a few, i think they are s40 or s90's with 60k-ish miles, for around $10,000 US dollars, and xc90's for $15,000 US dollars. I dont understand why they have such low resale value? Are they a bad choice to buy used, will they need a lot of repairing?
Hello everyone. I own a 2000 Volvo S40 with around 150,000 miles that has been having some trouble recently. Based on what I've read it sounds like it could be the Fuel Pump Relay and am looking for confirmation before switching it or possibly some other ideas for what is wrong. Below are its symptoms:
Disclaimer - it does have a constant check engine light on related to the transmission so some of these symptoms might be related to that. Also, I thought it was battery related at first so I had that checked and it came back as "bad battery" and I installed a brand new one this week. The problems have continued but it does start "better" than before
1. Car has trouble starting but usually will if I hold the ignition key for a few seconds
2. Car occasionally dies while driving when foot is not on the gas peddle 2a. I notice it die mostly within the first 1/2 - 1 mile of driving and after that it tends to drive better
3. If the car feels like its going to die and I use the gas, it often will continue to drive
4. If I'm coasting (on highway simply for example but it happens at different speeds) and the RPM should be idling around 3RPM, it will suddenly drop down between 0-1RPM. Again, if I use the gas it will often continue to drive
5. The car seems to "drive itself" meaning without using the gas it will sometimes engage and drive along as if I had the gas peddle down. The brakes always work to stop the car despite the engine still trying to run so it is not dangerous to drive.
6. When the car does die, I lose automatic steering or whatever it is called. I can still steer the car it is just much harder to turn.
7. The car tends to start up almost right away after it dies. I do not need to wait for it to cool down or anything.
Like I said, from some of what I've read it sounds like maybe the Fuel Pump Relay? Which would be awesome because thats an easy and inexpensive fix. I am trying to avoid putting a few hundred dollars into this car due to the transmission problem. I'm hoping to just fix this problem and drive it out until it dies completely.
Any and all advice or thoughts is SO appreciated! Thank you!
I'm looking to buy my first car, and I've heard that Volvos were the most reliable and safest. I'm 22, female and don't know much about cars, so I'm a bit nervous about this whole car buying thing. The volvo I'm looking at is a 1991, four door, white, black leather seats, about 175,000kms. I believe it's a front wheel drive. I will forsure be bringing a male friend with me to the dealership, but he's already told me that he doesn't know much about those cars. Any information you could give me about them would be VERY much appreciated.
Can anyone advise if I had a flat trye on the FRONT ( 205/55/R16 ) & I replaced it with my spare ( which is 205/50/R16 )....being 5 ml smaller in Profile, whether this will damage TRANSMISSION or other... Just thought different size tryes driving car on either side may cause some damage..???
Im taking a look at a 2002 Volvo s40 for my first car. It has 98k miles. What determines the reliability of a car? The amount of miles or the year ATEQ VT55 OBDII TPMS diagnostic tool? assuming it was regularly maintained. Please help. Do you think it could do a 6 hour road trip drive?
Please I need help on how to resolved this problem, my car volvo v40 2002 less than 100km has a pulled back air pressure when i accelerate and sometimes in response jumped forward I have been experiencing this in the last 2 weeks. I took the car for scanning and I have this code P0420 Catalytic converter below threshold bank 1. I am completely novice on how to solve this problem. PLEASE HELP.
Hi, I have a Volvo s40, 2003. I have been having problems with the acceleration especially going up hill (sometimes i can only reach 30mph) or over taking cars. There just doesnt seem to be any power there. I think it started when I went really low in gas, although this maybe a co-incidence. It does drive and can reach proper speeds but its like the power has dropped, it is also hard to start in the mornings - not sure if this is the battery or the starter. I have had it plugged in and Camshaft sensor came up and also speed sensor...? I bought a second hand camshaft sensor but that didnt make any difference. Anyone any ideas. I really know nothing about cars so any advice would be very helpful.. Im not sure if its worth spending too much more money on her..especially if it is a bigger issue. Thanks!
there is a number of new members placing attachments in their story warning to all members not to click on the attachments ,as you may find malware or a virus. so if you see membership suspended under each story it is a warning not to click on attachments.
My variable valve gear has been rattling for a while, sounds like a diesel now. If I disconnect it the noise stops. Is this a good idea, or doesn't it matter? Also got the lpg serviced today and found the stepper motor on the regulator needs replacing. As this seems to be very expensive anyone have any ideas for either an alternative part, or fix?
I have been reading alot on this and a few other forums as I have recently bought a 2003 Volvo S40 1.8L Petrol UK model with Audio System HU-655 and six speakers. I must admit, I am loving this car....alot.
Let me get to the questions:
1) My girlfriend tapped in wrong code three or more times and now it says OFF. Called Vodafone dealers and they gave me correct code and said leave it on for 2 hours or so for it to come back. Well it hasn't come back so far. I have tried pulling the audio fuses out of the Hood fuse box and from the one under the dash on driver side. Do you guys have any others tips apart from leaving the key in position 1? is it or 2? for couple of hours?
2) I would like to install a cheap fix for iPod/iPhone so I can listen to music. There are threads on net saying you have to buy kits etc but all I am looking for is a simple male connecter with RCA or 3.5mm jack on the other side. Is it true that Volvo uses special DIN or mini DIN sockets which can't purchased from market/online? Any suggestions for this would be really appreciated. I am not bothered about charging the iPod/iPhone as I would like to use the cigarette charger for that.
3) I am also confused/lost whether my car has an amp or not. I pulled out my HU-655 unit out and saw a black DIN cable there plugged in, is that for a CD Changer or AMP? There are two sockets behind the head unit, one has this cable plugged in and the other doesn't.
Please let me know if you have any information regarding the above.
I have a 2001 Volvo S40 Turbo and have been having problems with the heater/AC Fan/Blower for about a year or so. The first problem is that no matter what setting I have the fan set to (off or 1-5) it will randomly turn onto full blast for a few seconds and then turn back to wherever it was originally set. This happens every time I drive the car - multiple times. Second problem is that sometimes the AC will not get cold and the heater will not get hot. This happens sporadically, but sometimes it works perfectly... The most recent problem has happened twice in the last week - The fan/blower will not turn on at all, but after i get to wherever I was going and restart the car it will work fine. Any ideas....??
Got some nice stock bbs alloys from a breaker and while having a nose around I got a load of trim bits that were broken on mine, but also got the front bumper splitter, and the trim pieces for the rear. Can't see how they fit though. Help.
i just bought a 2001 Volvo s40 last week and everything seemed good and now im having alot of trouble starting it it sounds like it wants to start but doesn't turn on.Battary is good ,starter is good.it just wont start.If i give it a little throttle it sounds like it tries to want to start but doesnt.and iv noticed that there is some oil on the top of my moter by the oil filler cap.its not from me spilling oil.because i cleaned it off than took a 100 mile drive than got home and there was oil in the same spot a little puddle of oil.and my antifreeze looks like there is oil in it.head gasket issue? would it just be best to sell it? or fix? because iv heard that would cost a alot of money.Other than the problems under the hood of the car im having.the condition is really good it has really nice leather seats too.How much could it sell for with a blown head gasket with the rest of the car being in good shape?
Hello i have a 2004 volvo s40 but doesnt start after i turn off the car dont start and the keys are lock and no light at all in dashboard battery is new everyting was fine that happen after i turn engin off my windows are all down does anyone know or have an idea what is going on with my car or what i need to do
Hello everyone, I'm trying to find some information on CV boot replacement procedures and wanted to know if I were to pull out my drive axles ('02 S40 auto tranny) would I be dumping my tranny fluid? Is the leakage expected to be great? If the leak would cause a small fluid top up, that's alright but I'm reluctant to drop all the atf as I was warned the tranny could start to slip. I mean I could drain everything and put it all back but that's something else. The main question is if I pull out the axles, how much will the tranny leak?
Thanks PS: this part of the forum needs some moderation, too many spammy comments
hi, i just notice that when i switch off igniton my clock freeze the tie till i switch ignition back on.. so i set the clock to 6:00 and switched ignition off and the clock switched off aswell in the same time and when i turn ignition back on after 10 min clock was still 6:00 and after 12h the clock was 0:00.. can someone tell where can bee the problem please?? and my interior light dosnt come on aswell when i open the door or even if i try to switch it on manualy . and another thing when the interior light button is switch to automatic and i close the door the smal light in dashboard stays on that shows one of the doors is still open, but when i switch interior light switch off the door signe gos off...
Hey all. Finally pulled the plug on the poorly old car and got a newer one. 2002 1.8 bi fuel with 105,000 on the clock. Only concern is it's a little rattley almost diesel like, and runs a bit rough on lpg. Any ideas?
Hhi - My S40 has developed a weird fault, when driving, my right indicator will start to flash and I have to nudge the indicator column down to switch it off. Sometimes, when I turn left - the left indicator starts to flash as normal, but when I straighten up the car, the left indicator stops (as normal) but then the right hand one starts. Its as though the indicator column is activating the right hand indicator with a mind of its own - any ideas please ??
Hello everyone I am new to owning s40 I have had several 240. I recently purchased two s40's for my wife and I hers is an early 04 mine is 02. I purchased hers first and found several things I thought was just seeing on hers but when I got my baby I see they both have same quirks. First when I open the hood it hits on the driver side wiper arm. And on both cars the radio volume knob doesn't always work. Are these just on my two or has other had they're car do this and how did you fix the problem. Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
My VOLVO S40 with mileage of about 122,000 km, engine and transmission models were B4204S, MPS6. The car water temperature suddenly down during driving.Connect the VIDA DICE to read the relevant fault codes, just only one: "ECM-0118 engine coolant temperature sensor, signal is too high, B420S3 0". How can i do? Anyone can help me?
Bought my s40 5 months ago had a clean carfax report and started great. 3 weeks ago I had trouble starting and its been everyday since, car has trouble cranking over it takes about 10 seconds. Once car is started it can start right up within a 30 minute period. I found it starts better in cold weather. Scanned codes 3 times me and mechanic found nothing. Just replaced plugs and coils still no luck. Sorry for bad English.
Hello i have a problem with my 2003 s-40 today i try to start it but i notice that ignition key wont go all the way to ignition position i try few times and once the key wont come out it was like stuck in there i move gear selector just in case it was on other than park and it wasnt and still wont turn all the way , it looks like when you miss the start and need to try again that you have to take the key all the way back to off or it Will not go to start position , well i try this many times and key still dont go To start PLEASE HELP
I just open the lover cover remove the scree from the electrical part of the switch and move the center of it where the mechanical end fit and My car start it looks like the key cylinder is stuck inside not letting turn all the way
Hello I have a 2003 s-40 with a automatic transmission and the problem is that every time I slow down transmission kick so hard when it does the change gear down , I check on engine mounts and replace 2 that was bad , the rear lower and the one is over the transmisson under the air cleaner , it reduce the problem a little but still kicking , basicly the only engine mount that I didnt check is The one by the timing belt , that dealer ship told me that one is hidraulic but dont know how to check on it, please any ideas
I have a 2002 s40 1.9 turbo over the past 2 weeks car overheats on hot days when ac is turned on at that time no engine light was on. I flushed the system put fresh fluids in changed thermostate and ect sensor drove it around and still same problem checked fluid level and that was good. A couple days later engine light came on and code says below temp checked fluid again still good car still overheats when ac is on outside temps here are mid 80s does not overheat in the mornings its been chilly out. I drive 90 highway miles a day for work. Any ideas would be great really do not want to take it to dealership. Also as of today the heater ac fan is not blowing any heat or ac out of vents I can hear the ac working just not blowing.
Our 2000 V40 suffered a complete loss of coolant while at a light, and subsequently froze up due to the heat. Later we refilled it with hot water and were able to get it about a mile home. It was towed to a shop where they replaced the radiator and a hose but the tech tells me that likely due to a warped head or damaged gasket, it is now pressurizing the cooling system and needs attention before being driven for any length of time. He did indicate that these heads are either hard or impossible to resurface, due to the turbo and increased compression ratio, so that leaves the installation of a new or used good head, way more expensive than the car is worth.
But it starts right up, doesn't run rough at first, seems and sounds like it did before the event, so we're cautiously optimistic at this point.
Since we had no other feasible option to repair it, I investigated the various "Bar's Leaks" products and discovered that apparently there are quite a few folks out there who say they have successfully used the Bar's Leaks "Permanent" Head Gasket Fix product. This is a liquid containing a blend of sodium silicate and variously-sized flakes of what appears to be copper, all of which supposedly works its way in whatever little nooks or crannies causing a leak of water or combustion gas, and then it becomes fused in place due to the intense pressure and heat.
I could believe that. In fact, I bought it hook, line, and sinker.
So I put in a can according to directions. Now we're trying really hard to prove that the pressure buildup we see after running the engine for a few minutes is normal and due only to heating of the water which naturally increases the pressure.
The tech said we should try this test - Remove the reservoir filler cap to equalize pressure, then replace it. Start the car, idle for 15 seconds, then run at 2500 for another 15 seconds, and turn off. Now, very slowly twist off the cap and listen to whatever sound comes out from whatever pressure was generated.
We did that and we did get a tiny "pfffft", hardly anything at all. He said that he had done this test after replacing the radiator and water just poured out which told him it was game over.
So I tested it using saran wrap and a rubber band to observe the fluctuations in pressure. And it occurred to me that it would be really cool to see how a "normal" S/V40 acts on this test.
Assuming you're smart enough to have always checked your fluid levels so you have never overheated your motor, do this:
On a cold motor, remove the coolant filler cap. Take about a 4" square piece of saran wrap and fit it down around the threads of the opening. Use a rubber band doubled over once or twice to make it tight, and then fit the band over the wrap and down around the bottom thread, securing the wrap. It shouldn't be skin-tight but not too loosey goosey either, just "snug".
Ask a helper to start the vehicle and idle it as you observe the action of the saran wrap.
On ours, (which was not stone cold but almost), startup seemed to suck the wrap down slightly, then it recovered, and then it slightly puffed out a bit, then down, then out as fluid began circulating as well as heating.
After maybe a minute or so, it did begin showing obvious pressure buildup but it wasn't really strong. Then we revved to around 2000 or so and the pressure, while changing up and down, seemed to remain fairly constant, and then after maybe another minute, a pinhole appeared in the now-golf-ball-sized balloon so we shut it off at that point.
If you're in the mood, it would really be cool to see a short video clip of this being done. I realize this is asking a lot but I'm sure there are others just as geeky as I am that would do this.
Hello my names Noah, I was curious if you guys could help answer a few engine swap questions I have about my 2002 Volvo s40. I'm looking to actually swap out the engine due to the fact that it has 150,000 miles on it and I'm looking for more power. The engine in it right now is a inline 4 1.9L turbo, I'm also curious with the additional power brought by a bigger engine what other parts I would need to upgrade to be able to handle to additional power. I'd be interested to hear peoples opinions on the most powerful wreplacement engine that'll still allow me to be used it as a everyday driver.
You should take it to the dealer instead. It will cost you a diagnostic fee, but the dealer can hook it up to a computer diagnostic program called VIDA and look up Volvo-specific codes and be able to accurately tell what the problem is. All AutoZone will be able to do is pull the generic code, which will not give as much information as the code VIDA will give. You could take it to AutoZone, but if the code is caused by anything more than a loose gas cap, you may need X-431 Diagun diagnosed by the dealer anyway, taking it straight there will just save you some time. Hope this helps.