Volvo 440, 460 & 480 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

help! please.......
my 440 since it got very hot (the weather that is) over the last few weeks has started to leak. as you look at the car, its at the top right hand coner of the radiator, where the metal crimps around onto the pastic side tanks of the radiator. i cant afford a new one and wondered if anyone had any idea how to cure it, albeit temporarily. i've been told radweld stuff wont work on the area in question.
any offers appreciated.

Hey Guys,

Am new here so ''hey'' to everybody.

Got a small problem over here. I just bought this really nice 440 1.8 from 1995. Problem is that the previous owner blown the speakers to pieces. I want to install a new stereo but how to? These are my questions.

1/ An Alpine stereo basic model, is it better than for example a Pioneer? (This is what I heard)

2/ How can you replace the speakers in your front doors. I can't seem to find a way to get them out, or get new one's in. You have to take of the panel, but a can't figure out how?

3/ Any other hints and tips, how to get myself a nice sound.

Thanks already for your reactions. Really like all the help.

Thanx guys!!!!

Grtz

Martijn

Hi members! My volvo 460 Auto GLE 1993 gearbox has given away. As informed, some parts of the car is Renault. I would like to find out whether the gearbox of the Renault R19 is compatible as replacement.

Hello.

My name is Gregor and I come from Slovenia. I have Volvo 460 year 1995. I have one problem with engine or carburettor.
The problem I have occurred on several occasions. When I drive at the moment the engine goes on 4500 rpm and doesn`t wont goes on normal position. The motor for free run goes on last position and he does`t wont goes on first position. I change the motor for free run on caruretto. I buy a new motor. Second time when I have this problem I change the potentiometer on hatch for carburettor. I drive for two months. Two days ago I have the same problem. I remove the motor for free run and I set the motor on first position with two cables ( +,- ) directly from accumulator. Then I set the motor on carburettor.
I change the motor and potentiometer but I have still this problem. I ask on four services in Slovenia but none have the answer for this problem.

Does anyone know how to resolve this problem?

Thanks for the answers!!!

Gregor

I have a 1993 440 1.7si. Not long back I had a water leak. It was established that this was coming from the water pump. So a new one was fitted. Since then my car overheats when idle. Everything in the Haynes manual has been checked also anything found on the net. The radiator has been checked. So has the thermostat. It has been checked for air locks. And has also been drained down and refilled with 50% coolant 50% water. Strangely it never once overheated with the water leak.

Hi guys -

I have an N registered Volvo 440.

Its indicators and hazards have stopped working and there is no clicking sound to be heard anywhere. I think i am right in thinkign a relay is to blame.

However, nowhere in my manual, or my haynes manual does it tell me which relay is responsible - there are no guides under the relay box casing.

Can anybody tell me which on it is??

Many thanks

Andy

Hi everybody,

I am the proud owner of a p reg 440 glt 2 litre injection. I have had no problem with it until now. I cannot get it started, it cranks but does not fire. It does spark and the fuel pump is working, tested it to confirm. There is a live to the fuel pump for a second if that then it loses the live. Sorry if i seem vague but writing this on behalf of the mechanic. I am wondering could it be the relay and how do i identify the relay. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Maurice

Hi all,

I'm new here & need some help with my Volvo 440 please.

Basically, a few months back my husband was driving the car & it just cut out while he was in motion. To cut a long story short, we were told it was the Alternator by some & the battery by others, so have replaced both. The other thing we noticed was the immobiliser light comes on when you start the car & constantly flashes. The immobiliser is not however, stopping the car from starting etc.

We fitted the new battery & alternator & the car seemed to work fine, but then cut out again on my husband yesterday. It started again after a few minutes & he managed to get home. He then left the engine running to see how long it stayed on. We heard it trying to cut out then it seemed to rev, then cut out. When he tried to turn it back on it was making a clicking noise. We left it overnight & tried it again today & it's running, but we're pretty sure it will cut out again & don't want to risk it.

So as it's not the alternator or battery we believe it's the immobiliser. Some problem somewhere. I know it's connected to the central locking system & in the Haynes manual it states the central locking control unit is behind the glovebox. Had a look but have no idea what this looks like & don't really know what to do once we locate it, but wondered if we could somehow disable the immobiliser to see if that makes a difference?

Any info would be of a great help on any of the things I have mentioned! Don't really want to take her to a garage (not even sure she will get there anyway!).

Hello all, I've recently purchased a wonderful 480 ES and am having trouble with the mpg read-out. The instant mpg and average mpg constantly read 11.1 (it's more like 30-40 in reality).

The fuel/distance/average speed/range/temp gauges seem to work fine but it's not updating the mpg (and therefore range) calculation. I've hit the reset button on all and I've explored how to calibrate the fuel gauge, etc.

I'm otherwise a complete novice with this sort of thing but thought I'd ask for some advice on fixing it.

Thank you.

Hello Volvo fans

Sad news about the low mileage Volvo 440. Someone drove in the back of the car a month or so ago and the insurance company have paid me a cash in lieu sum to cover the loss (that means it's not on Vcar)

I have found a new Volvo that I am picking up in a week and was wonering if anyone out there wants to make use of the amazing condition of this car (the interior and mechanical parts).

It now has 31 and a bit thousand miles on it. It drives perfectly although needs an oil service.

The coolant leak was fixed although I occasionally have to top it up with red antifreeze.

It has hardly used a drop of oil in 20000 miles!

The interior has got to be seen to be believed - mint. The original stereo has no code though and since the core-lug job has locked.

The exterior is a bit tatty, surface rust on door bottoms and rear wheel arches. The underneath is solid and has been checked everytime it's on a ramp.

Since the accident I have driven the car loads - it is road legal. The boot catch was pushed in a bit and to shut the boot it needs a damn good thwack. Stays shut no problem.

MOT - this is a clincher... it runs out on the 14th June. Although I am almost tempted to putit through as the only thing I think it will fail on is the handbrake - it needs tightening. New exhaust from last year.

Oh, I have full history for the car too that verifies the mileage - unless someone drove one million miles in it between MOTs one year.

I really want this car to go to a good home or it's brilliant bits to help out another volvo. All I am after is the difference between the cash in lieu sum and the write off cost. And thats not much more than the scrappers are going to give me for it.

You can drive it home on or before next Sunday. I travel about a bit and can deliver if you are nearby and if you pay my trainfare to get to my destination.

Photos available on request (say which bit of the car you want to see) or viewing no problem or ask any questions.

Cheers

John
0777 999 7089





Hello all

I've located the leak on my 1993 440 and it's from one of the core plugs in the block. It's awaiting repair at the garage on Wednesday. After that it is likely to go up for sale as I have a new job and should get a car (woooooo!) so this is to let you all know it is available - before the repair job (and therefore cheaper) for a week. I say this as the core plug is going to be very cheap but the labour much more so any skilled mechanics out there could save themselves some cash.

Summary
Red 1993 Volvo 440 1.8Xi. I once got 500 miles from 57 litres of petrol in this car. Usually 450 miles.
Has done just over 24000 miles. Honestly - with full service history and almost every MOT certificate to prove it. I am the second owner and have done 12000 miles in it since June, runs very well
I had 4 new tyres on in June and they are still good (the originals (from 1993) passed the MOT but I decided to be safe)
New centre and rear exhaust section
MOT until 15 June 2009
Tax not included (although you can have the remainder for face value)
All original throughout

A few niggles as you always get:
stone chips on the bonnet and the grille has a crack (almost invisible)
a small dent in nearside wing
A bit of rust on the rear arches - still solid though
Rear boot struts not perfect

Great things:
The interior is absolutely perfect. must've been kept indoors as there is no fading or anything. No nicks, cracks, cigarette burns, even the heated seats work. Some scuffing on the front carpets - that's it.
Other than the core plug the engine is mint. When I bought it the oil was clear and remained so for miles.
Drives like, well, a car that has only done 24000 miles.
Oh, brakes were done a couple of years ago.

Let me know if you have any other questions. The car is in Kendal and it's yours for £350 once it's repaired. I drive up and down the M6 to Leamington and Derby if anyone wants to see it there.

Cheers

John

Hi all,

Much to my amazement, I discovered today that my 440 has disc brakes on the rear. I thought all the Diesels had drums in the rear, and only petrol Turbos had discs. That`s what all the specs say. My Haynes only covers petrol models, so is not much use for this. Does anyone else has, or knows of, 440 Diesels with discs in the rear?

Not really important, but I am curious nonetheless...

DF

I just got hold of a bargain 440 1.6 on eBay.

However, got it home and it sounds to be the big end has gone.

I have 2 questions:

1. Does and one have any big end shells kicking about for the 1.6 petrol engine??
2. and, does anyone know what engine(s) would fit in without too much hassle?

For the engine conversion, im thinking something bigger - maybe Turbo?? 1.7Turb??

If not the 1.7, then does anyone else have any decent ideas?
Want something with a decent amount of power that isn't the HUGEST job in the world to do...

Also, as i'm here asking about more power - what larger brakes will fit on??

Thanks

Hi!

I have read so much about fuel filter and how important it is, and because i drive mostly on E, it would be a good idea to change it.
But i have a problem. I dont seem to find fuel filter on 440 atleast whithout taking the car apart. Can any body help me or am i just not trying enough?

Tnx.

Hi

Sorry for the stupid question... I have a 1996 Volvo 440 1.8i

My coolant needs topping up. I went to Halfords and they suggested Blue coolant as this is generally for older cars. However, the coolant cap says it must be Volvo coolant.

Will this Halfords coolant be ok?

Thanks

duuuuuuuuuuude, you are one dumb little sh*t!!!!!! banned. try it again.

Hi Chaps,

While whiping down my windscreen on my Volvo 460i 1.8s (think the "S" stands for slow) the other day I managed to "knock off" one of the windscreen washer jets, I tried to "push it back on" only to disover I had broke it. "Not a problem" I though, "I'll just pop down to the local car parts store and buy a replacement".

But oohhhh no, life is never so simple. Upon arriving at the store & asking if they had any of "these" (holding the now broken washer jet in my hand) they looked at me blanky. Eventually someone said, "Why did they make it so tall? Never seen one like that before, don't think we carry replacements for those". They did a full blown search on their system and "no match found" was the ever-recurring message.

So, here I am. A car which has a nice and clean passenger side of windscreen & a wonderfully smeary drivers side. In all honesty, its only a problem if I want to drive it any where. If I'm not too mistaken this is the main purpose of owning a car..?

tl;dr

Can anyone help me in locating a replacement? I've googled the shizz out of these things and my efforts remain fruitless.

Thanks in advance and best regards,

Groot T

Hi guys, new to the forum!

I need a bit of help.

i'm trying to install a remote central locking kit for my 480, and i can't seem to find which of the wires are the unlock positive and negative, and the lock positive and negative. more to the point, does anyone know if there is a motor on the drivers door of a 480, or is it only the passenger door that has the motor? the only wire i've managed to find is the total closure which all 480's have

Help would much be appreciated thanks

Tobi

Hello!

1994 Volvo 460 GLE 1800cc 66kW monoinjection. I can´t find the defect. When I start up the car, it works about 8-10 minutes, then it cuts itself off like no fuel is coming to the engine. And the 8 minute effect is only then, when the engine is cold. Warm engine doesn´t start at all. Although from hoses to engine fuel is coming through.

Checked the pump and relay, they seem to be ok (maybe pump does not give the right pressure?), one thing is that voltage on battery is 11,7V, but only 9,6 V on the pump. Is it normal? We tried to give direct 12V to the pump and then starting the engine, no difference, no start-up.

One lad spoke about a sensor on crankshaft or camshaft, what regulates the pump or injection system.

Can anyone give some advice, how to get closer to understanding the problem or knows what the problem could be?

Best regards,
Oliver

Iv,e nearly got my gearbox away fron engine on my 1996 440 but can't get the O/S drive shaft out of gearbox.It seems like this is the only thing stopping me splitting gearbox from engine. Has anybody got any ideas?

This is my first post, so please be gentle :-)

I have a 1995 N-reg 440 that my wife "reversed into a post" while I was away on holiday; there was actually quite a bit of damage beyond the bumper. She then arranged to get it fixed for a princely sum (more than it is worth :-o) and in the process, we have lost the ability to squirt water on the rear window. My memory tells me that the water came down from a jet in the top of the rear window / hatch, but there is no obvious sign of this having changed. Also, Googling a number of similar models leaves me none the wiser either. I'm 90% sure there wasn't a pipe leading up the wiper itself.

All the front-end components look, and appear to operate fine, i.e. rear wiper operates; pushing the little grey button at the end of the stalk triggers the secondary pump to operate on the side of the washer bottle; the small hose leads from this pump away under the offside engine components, but to where... ?

When it was fixed, I have deduced from the childish scribblings on the 'quote / receipt' that the inner panels of the boot had to be removed (no great surprise there), so I assume the small hose is currently emptying itself somewhere in the boot area, though there is no obvious evidence of this (nor under the car after grey button use).

Any help much appreciated.

Hi, have a problem with my Volvo, it's developed a running problem when it been ruuning for a while.
Cars got no power ticks over ok but foot on pedal and engine doesn't rev up.
+ the low fuel light has just started to come on (with plenty of petrol in tank.) and car wont start at all,
Any body got any ideas, what brings on "low fuel Light"

Hello everybody, ive got a 440 1.8 se automatic is a lovely car when it runs well, its fast when i need it ,grate to drive,and up to 5 months ago started to have problems, first the car would die in drive when i pulled away, then the revs went crazy,so i had a mechanic check it out,the diagnostic pointed to the throttle position sensor,so we got a newish unit for 100ps volvo new 650 ps,we put that on no change,so we thought E.C.U unit got a second hand replacement still no change, so then we replaced the MAP sensor,well GREAT YES, its just like it was before it all went wrong, then 5 days later back to the problem, only if i take off the the MAP sen,connector then start the car, revs at 3,000rpm but drives like it should do, only when you stop it's still reving high ANY BODY had the same problem? like to here from you can you help thanks

After 12 years of starting first turn of the key my 96 1.6i 440 has finally let me down.

She's been surplus to requirements for 6 months ( i ride a motorcycle in the summer ) I start her up every 2 weeks take it round the block a few times operate everything, get the engine to operating temp. I stick a charger on it for 24 hours every time i do this.

This morning I decided to fix the horn ( MOT Time), I took it off, cleaned the contacts connected it to the battery to check and refitted it. The gear change gets stiff when not used much so I lubed up the linkages. Then I tried to start it......turns over no probs, not even showing a sign of firing.

Started fault finding, plugs were as dry as a bone even after much cranking so began to suspect the fuel system. Fuel light has been on a while so I stuck a gallon in. Then I noticed the fuel pump does not whirr/buzz when the key is first turned so I......

1. Took fuel supply pipe off the fuel delivery rail, turned ignition on nothing squirts out.

2. Checked the pump relay, clicks when ignition is turned on. bench tested it with a multimeter, seems ok.

3. There is power to the switch side of the relay.

4. By passed the relay with a jumper cable, pump runs.

running out of ideas now!

One question...... Do the fuel pumps run continuously or do they switch in and out? looking at the wiring diagram it appears to be connected to the ECU. I'm wondering if I somhow damaged the ECU with the charger/horn test, is this possible?

any help would be great.

hi there i was woundering if anyone has a volvo 440 2.0L timing belt picture diagram ? please help

hi i recently managed to snap the timing belt in my volvo 440 si, i have had the engine replaced with an equivelent match (1.8) but now fuel consumption seems to be through the roof...also lack of power..... getting revs then power kicks in after..(almost seems lack of compression but full exhaust system brand new and no leaks) any sugestions?

also today the windscreen washer button shot out of its control stick any help on replacing the control stick would be good

my volvo 460 2.0i a light has come on when i start the engine my manual says it is an emmission control symbol ever since my car has been jerking when the car idles its ok is this minor or major problem can anyone help please.

I've just bought 96 460 SE 2.0 and noticed that speedometer's needle is shaking, but still is working quite fine but the shaking is anoying me. The speedo is electronical - what can be the problem?

I was cleaning the engine bay of my 460 and i noticed a puddle of fluid at the very end of the kickdown cable(according to haynes manual hehehe).I cleaned it but fluid is still seeping out.There's no drip mark on the ground underneath and the fluid level looks within the normal.This is my first automatic car and i am not mechanically inclined to be honest so i'm just wondering if this is a major problem or it can be rectified easily.By the way i just bought the car and drove it 20 miles approximate from where i bought it.She sound ok and the gear shifting was fine too and the only thing i've noticed was the temperature needle going up near the red mark.Thanks in advance if you can help me with this issue.

Following the death of my beloved 440 I have official volvo roof bars for sale. Good condition

Hi i was a proud owner of Volvo 440, 95'. Few days ago i had a short circuit in trunk because mechanism for opening trunk was pressing against wires for lighting the registration tables. So the battery was drained in an instant - while car was running.

So i go ridd of short circuit by unpluging lights for registration tables, and hooked up battery to another car to recharge it. After few minutes battery was clearly full as all the electonics were able to turn on normaly. But engine wouldn't start and also i couldn't lock and unlock the car by remote on my keys(i also tried spare keys). Neither could i lock and unlock from inside by pressing the button on panel.

As a reminder let me say that when car was working i had to specificaly unlock the car on remote to be able to start it, for blockade to "relese"(Renault engine).

So my question is weather can i by-pass this blockade and how?

Also i would like to say, that my mechanic said he has two more Volvos on his lawn with same problem but owners of those Volvos had put new batteries inside and since then they have this problem.

Appriciate any help or comment.

Hi!

I drive 440. Love it. I want to change shock absorbers because they are at end. Is there anything i should be carefoul about and where can i get more information on which shock absorbers i can replace them with (maybe i can go to scrapyard and get some from newer car, not necesarily volov)?

Tnx.

I have one big problem. I broke my manual gearbox yesterday. I own Volvo 460 turbo. The question is- can i fit a gearbox from other volvo that is not the turbo one. It is easy to find gearbox for 1.8i and 2.0i engines, but i cant find gearbox that is made for the turbo engine. Are these gearboxes different? Sorry for my english. I hope you understand.

Sorry
Just moved it to the correct area.
Didn't know how to delete this one.

cheers

Hey People,

Just wondering wether anyone knows if a t5 estate bumper would fit onto a 440? just thinking of upgrading the bumper as it is not perfect

pressed button on handbrake and it has gone down and not come back up should this happen?

I get a "turbo sound" from my speakers, meaning a low high-pitched sound that increases with the alternator speed (revs).
I get huge voltage losses when I turn on electrical loads in the car.
I.e. my voltmeter shows 13.8v, but when I turn on the rear window heating, it drops by .3v. Drops another .4v when I turn on the foglights.
My battery is brand new, and it says "charging neccecary".
My in-car voltmeter gives me low voltages all the time, it often tells me it's dropped below 10.5v. But the voltage right on the battery is usually a bit higher.. usually atleast over 12v.

Is it easy to swap brushes on these alternators? Voltage regulation seems fine.

I have a 1994 1.8 440LI volvo. Abou 8 months ago i replaced radiator, water pump, thermostat and fan switch. All was fine. Recently my tempreture gauge has been going into red and the warning light comes on. However engine does not appear to be overheating. Replaced the tempreture sender unit on the front of the cylinder head and the gauge sensor on the back of the engine, Still going to red and warning light coming on. Car drives fine.
Can someone please help

1994 460 1.6i

Basically I was changing the wheel yesterday and one of the wheel nuts sheared in the hub and when I put the spare wheel back on so I could crawl the car back to my house 2 of the remaining 3 nuts were making their own way through the hub (think the previous owner has used the wrong size nuts)

I've sourced a second hand hub from a breakers and need to get it fitted this week as I rely on the car to pull my trailer just wondering if anybody can give me heads up on the procedure for doing so?

Cheers

John

Hello all,
I am posting this in hope that someone could help me.

I have a 96 460 2.0 liter engine. It has worked fairly well until recently, but two weeks ago, just the day after I had passed the MOT inspection without problems, that car stopped starting.

That day I had taken the car to run some herrands and it had no problem at all, but I was going home and stoped by the supermarket, left the car parked for ten minutes, and when I came back the car first started a couple of times.
The first time it started it sounded ok, but It didn't "react" when I pressed on the gas pedal, then it turn off. The next three times, it also started but the motor had more problems to keep running. The last time it almost sounded as if the engine cylinders where failing until it turn off. Then the car hasn't started at all. I had plenty of battery left as I probably have cracked the car another 20 times since then and there is still some battery left.

I have checked the error codes and i get a 111 in the slot number 2. I have checked if there is spark from one of the cables to the spark plugs, and I can see a clear electrical spark when putting it close to the engine block.

I also took out one of the spark plugs, and it was totally dry, even though I had been cracking the engine several times.

I have also checked with a Digital Multi Meter if there is current coming to the fuel pump, and when i put the key in position II there is a 12V current coming into the engine, the fuelpump-relay seems fine also with a resistance of 68 ohms between the pins I think 85 and 86. But I CAN'T HEAR ANY BUZZING from the fuel pump, even if I dismantle the back seat and put my ear next to it. How loud is the sound from the fuel pump?

So here are my questions:
Could it be that the fuel filter is totally clogged and that the pump registers that there is enough pressure so it doesn't need to start? I have not changed the fuel filter in 4 years and I wonder if that could have something to do with it?

How do you change the fuel pump, how many hours would it take an inexpert mechanic such as myself? How about in a garage, how many hours would they charge? Is it doable with a car parked on the street?

Is there anything else that I am missing and that I could check before leaving the car to the mechanic (or giving it away)?

Thank you very much for your help, all comments are appreciated.
Cheers,
Alfonso

Hi all,
My M Reg 440TD SE sits on the wonk. The drivers side rear is a good couple of inches lower at the wheelarch than the passenger side. Is it basically a case of disconnecting everything at the back to allow the springs to come free, or do I need some sort of coil spring compressor as when changing springs on front struts.

Thanks

Hi all, I have a 440TD SE and the central locking only works on the drivers side doors. The boot and passenger doors have never worked in the 2 years I've owned the car. Where do I look for the central locking unit and is this likely to be the problem?

Thanks

M reg 440 starts and runs perfectly but if left for 36 hours the battery goes completely dead - unless I disconnect the earth.

Jump starts first time and a 3 mile journey to work will give enough charge for it to work at end of the day, but no longer.

New battery and new alternator.

Anybody got any ideas as to what could be causing the drain and how to solve it?

Barry

Hello all!

I have been searching the internet for help with my standard factory alarm for my Volvo 440i 1.8 '96.
Ive had the car for about 10 months most of that time it has been in garage with a afew runs, now however its time to focus back on the beast.

Since replacing battery / battery going dead the Alarm sounds after 20 seconds of remote locking from keyfob. This is starting to anoy the neighbours as its damned loud!

I have looked online for solutions for this, there are several themes in responces but no replys from problem seakers saying if anything helped so I am going to pester you all again if I may.

Before I took ownership the previous owners had no problems with the alarm however drivers side door lock does stick and doesnt allways close when using the fob.

Things I have done to the car that may cause alarm sounding:-

-Replacing battery / battery going dead (is there a common fault with electronics that would cause the alarm to sound?)

-Replacing Stereo (Couldnt find the code for original radio so replaced with a new one. I have read somewhere that the electronics for the alarm code on the original radio were connected to the alarm system?)


As I say if anyone has any ideas to try or to point me in the right direction that would be apreciated. I have tryed removing the fuse for the sounder but the hazzards still flash after 20 seconds.
I have looked thru all the forum searches and cant find any one that has acutally managed to fix this problem apart from removing the electronics or replacing alarm... or getting their wallets lightened by a Volvo teck.

Any help apreciated.

Darcey

Hi

I have a 1994 volvo 440. I had a after market radio installed, which has now been stolen. I am trying to fit the old one, but as the wiring adaptor went with the stolen radio, i am at a loss.

The radio was fitted at halfords.

I am trying to figure out what the original colours and sized wires mean in the volvo, so that I can wire it up to a spare adaptor that I have, which unfortunately used the new colour scemes.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks
David

Hi again, all.

My "project" has been standing still through christmas, just haven't summoned the will to do anything more about it..

As it is now, the relays are not clicking, even when I do the little system relay bypass trick. And the high temperature and low fuel lights are on.. and some other lights. It's just giving me more and more trouble..
But, a new ECU is on it's way now!

In order to prepare for it, I'm trying to find out if any of my sensors are delivering malformed or no values to the ECU...
First, I checked for earth on all the pins, and this is my results:

Note: Pin 8 is only earthed when you push two pins about 30cm along the ECU connector together.. But I connected it to try if it made any difference. No documentation on what this does, I thought maybe it was some kinda override, or something..

Blank means no earth (measured up to 200k)

1: 0
2: 0
3: 3.8k
4
5: 31.2
6
7
8 1.1
9
10
11
12
13: 19.4
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21: 6
22: 76.8
24: 10
25: 1.4
26: 584
27
28
29: 78
30
31
32
33
34
35: 2

There was battery voltage on all expected pins coming from the +12v rails.

Then, I looked at the schematics and measured the resistance of every sensor one by one..

Air temp inlet sensor: 4.81k ohm - HBOL says 2500 with deviation of 300
Coolant temp sensor, fuel injection system: 5.12k ohm - HBOL says 2500 with deviation of 300
Idle speed regulating valve: 37.1 ohm (5 + 24)
Oxygen sensor: 31.9 ohm (35 + 5) - This one has another wire going straight to earth also.. not sure how to test this properly.
Air pressure sensor: 1477 ohm (33 + 17)
Air pressure sensor: 871 ohm (33 + 16)
Fuel injectors: 33 ohm (21 + 5) - They are supposed to be 8 ohm.. 4x8 is 32. So should be right!
Crank sensor: 219 ohm

Basically, nothing made sense except injectors and crank sensor. But things like the idle speed regulating valve has always been working just fine for me... The book must be wrong..

Does anyone else have a B20F and have done some test data on theirs?

Hey there, I'm new to this forum, I'm from Holland and I'll try to write this in English correctly; feel free to correct me. Like "ignitionlock" is that the right word for the part where you put your key in to start the car?

So anyways, I own a Volvo 440 build '92, probably Europe.

One day it happened, the key wouldn't start when I put the key in "start" position.

The roadguard helped me to make a by-pass. I have to pop the hood every time and there they made a wire that I have to bring onto the battery to start the starting engine

Great temporary "hot wiring", but i'm looking for a permanent solution.

Now I've manage to test several things:
1) replacing the entire ignitionlock (by a 2-hand one), no change (also tried to just change the mechanism or just the electrical part ... no change).

2) put 12 volt on the wire that goes to the startingengine, at the contactpoint at the ignitionlock-plug. Ok so the wiring is still ok!

2) measure the different voltages on the contacts of the lock-plug. Now it gets interesting without an electric sceme. (I found many, but not from the starting-locking-mechanism)
-I found a thick red wire, with constant 12 volt on it. Works fine.
-I found a thick white/grey wire, going to my starting engine. The wire is ok, but I get no 12 volt in any way I put the key.
-Then there is a thick wire (forgot the color) used for the assecoires. That one works fine, it turns on when i put the key in (lets 12 volt through), en when i try to start it interrupts. That's normal for all I know.
-Finally I found 2 wires, EACH going to the same contact of my ignition-lock-plug. One is a thin wire, ASSUMINGLY going to the dashboard lights. There is 9 volt on this wire once I put the key in. So on this same circuit, there's also a thicker wire. I am clueless as to where this one is for!!
Strange thing is, the 9 volts on this contactpoint, becomes 12 volt when I want to start the engine by key.

Conclusion:
It is as if the 12 Volt is given to an unknown wire only, while it should also be passed on to the starting engine contact point.
-Did I just have bad luck with the 2nd hand lock, having the same problem?
-What is that wire for that gets the current 12 volt?
-Could there be a shortcircuit in the unknown 12 volt wires, causing a backfire on the ignition-lock-plug somehow, preventing it from sending the 12 volt to the starting-engine wire?

Need I make a picture to support my story, is there someone who can help me with answers, a sceme or directions?

Thanks in advance!

Hi.
In lack of experience and age, I want my car to sound like a "Ferrari". I have a 1992 Volvo 440 1,7i with a 1721CC, B18FP engine, and YES it is not the most tunable car in the world, nor the easiest to find performance exhaust parts for either. In terms of "Ferrari sound", i kind mean the car sounding like this:
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2EZ4gZcXrY) or
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZDkNiN0v4w&feature=related) and
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kz4YYHODtRo&feature=related), clearly not Ferrari sounding cars, but you get the picture.

I want (if possible) to make my Volvo sounding remotely the same as these cars while I`m still young and careless enough to to drive around in a car making THAT much noise.

Does a Big straight universal muffler from Apexi (N1), flowmaster or Magnaflow (or other perhaps cheaper manufacturers) do the trick, or do I have to find some dealer that makes custom catback (exhaust piping, as far as i have understood the term catback)??

We've got an old (obviously) 1995 440 S1.6i that's developed a more than slight reluctance to get up in the morning.

The car got a little wet in the heavy rain towards the end of last year and has slowly been loosing power ever since (to the point of straining and screaming to get up even the most modest hill). I've just noticed that there is a leak in the exhaust section where the manifold joins the downpipe to the catalitic converter. Am i right in thinking that there is some kind of sealing ring or reduction ring between the two parts that can be replaced? otherwise it may need a new(ish) manifold, which my pal tells me can be pretty costly. Was wondering if this is likely to be the source of the power loss. Also, it won't go anywhere if i don't 'warm up' for at least 10 minutes before any journey, and then it's juddery for the first few miles till engine is up to temp. Engine is noisy as hell, sounds like a an old diesel engine TB. Oil level is fine though, any thoughts?

Bought a cheapy new 'splice in' oxygen sensor, as idle rev's have got erratic to the point of stupid. Can run from less than 6000 RPM (ie, almost stalling) up to 16000 rpm. it's always been a little erratic, but usually stays around the 8500 rpm mark more often than not, Is it likely to be the Lambada or is it gonna be the idle inlet valve? Can't fit the new O2 sensor though, can't get the old one out. It's fused well and truely in the downpipe.

Is the sealing/reduction exhaust ring costly? couldn't find anywhere that sells them on the web, but there's deffo something like it on the 1.6 exhaust (well it's illustrated in Haynes, which i know can be a little less than accurate sometimes).
Any help/advice gratefully received. Have a good new year!