Volvo 440, 460 & 480 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Well have to say after 2 years of stuttering I found the cause and maybe I can be of help to all of the other stuttering volvos 440,460 and 480´s out there in volvo land, So down to the point under the glovebox where the heater moter is there are 2 relays with a fuse 7,5 amp hooked together ,today i changed both relays and bang my stuttering was gone and the car runs super, one relay is a fuelpump relay and the second one is for the fuel injectors relay ,changed both of these before givin out a lot of money like I did, I think it would solve alot of headaches ,I am looking to hear from anyone else having the same problem I had ,My 440 turbo runs now like a wild horse ,THANK GOD

I'm writing this as a response to jlgrosvenor's thread located here, but rewriting it as a new topic for this forum.

So, the car is a Volvo 460 2.0 95 model, without turbo.
Have only had it for about 3 weeks.


Car's been driving perfect, except for a very high fuel consumption. But it never stops, always starts - even if it's quite cold outside (live in Norway).

So, one day I was changing the stereo, parked it outside, it rained a bit, and my hood was open.. Don't think that should matter though!
After some hours, I was done, tried to crank it, didn't start. Assumed I had flattened the battery, I charged it until the morning after.
I crank it, starter turns, but nothing more happens.

I check if there's a spark, no spark.
I check if there's a spark in the plug cap, no spark.
I check if there's voltage to the coil. All connections read 0v.

I check the crank sensor (the one at the right side of the engine, way down there...).
I listen for the fuel pump running. No fuel pump.
I try to diagnose the car, but I only get a response from slot #7 (which is ABS or airbag or something)
Socket #2 only gives me a faded weak LED, which gets stronger when I push the button. But no response.
The two other sockets that there's something in gives no reaction other than the light lighting up as long as I hold down the button.
Socket #7 gives me code 1-1-1. No errors.

I shuffle the relays about a bit, the ones that are acccessible from the engine bay.
No change or effect.
I read this thread, read about the fuel pump relays. I try looking for them at the driver side, only to realize that they're at the right hand side, which isn't the driver side here.
I find two relays that look similar to the ones described here. I take them off, one for one and check them.

I ohm the two connected poles. 85 and 86, was it? I get 75 ohm.
When I feed the relay with +12v, the relay clicks. I assume it's working, put it back in. I check the next one, same reults, also appears to be working fine.

When i check voltage in the socket I get exactly the same results as forementioned in the post.
I switch them around in their sockets, to see if that has any effect. Still no go.

I unplug the ECU of the car (the humongous SCART-contact). It suprises me that I cannot see any difference in the behaviour of the car whether I have it plugged or unplugged. The same warning lights flash, the SRS light goes away when it should, oil pressure goes away when it should. As it is now, I don't know if I have a dead ECU, or if the ECU has no power or something.

Which leads am I supposed to check that gives power to the ECU (or other important needed cables)?


The dashboard illuminates, the oil-light lights up, and disappears a second or so when I start to crank the engine.
The stereo works fine
Lights, turning signals, heater, everything works as it should when it's off.
When I crank it, everything dims as it should, and the starter sounds very normal.
Never had any problems the one month I have owned the car.
The car has previously had installed a DEFA 800-series alarm, but I think all of it except an unplugged siren and a glass-breaker microphone is left.. I can't find any immobilizer atleast.

Known problems with the car is that it has excessive fuel consumptions (1.4l per 10km, that's like 25mpg-ish, and it's with nice driving too!)
Thermostat probably broken, not showing engine temperature.

The car has gas, oil, coolant and plenty of power on the battery.

Help!

I have clear sealed all around rear light cluster It rained "CATS & DOGS"last night
NOT A DROP came in Harry

After 12 years of starting first turn of the key my 96 1.6i 440 has finally let me down.

She's been surplus to requirements for 6 months ( i ride a motorcycle in the summer ) I start her up every 2 weeks take it round the block a few times operate everything, get the engine to operating temp. I stick a charger on it for 24 hours every time i do this.

This morning I decided to fix the horn ( MOT Time), I took it off, cleaned the contacts connected it to the battery to check and refitted it. The gear change gets stiff when not used much so I lubed up the linkages. Then I tried to start it......turns over no probs, not even showing a sign of firing.

Started fault finding, plugs were as dry as a bone even after much cranking so began to suspect the fuel system. Fuel light has been on a while so I stuck a gallon in. Then I noticed the fuel pump does not whirr/buzz when the key is first turned so I......

1. Took fuel supply pipe off the fuel delivery rail, turned ignition on nothing squirts out.

2. Checked the pump relay, clicks when ignition is turned on. bench tested it with a multimeter, seems ok.

3. There is power to the switch side of the relay.

4. By passed the relay with a jumper cable, pump runs.

running out of ideas now!

One question...... Do the fuel pumps run continuously or do they switch in and out? looking at the wiring diagram it appears to be connected to the ECU. I'm wondering if I somhow damaged the ECU with the charger/horn test, is this possible?

any help would be great.

Recalling my dad's old 245DL estate makes me think of the many trips to the fuel station. anywhere from 15 - 25 mpg was the norm. However, I've just returned from a trip Essex - Northumberland in my 440 which is approx 350 miles and in spite of my heavy foot and the fact that the engine is running a bit rich, I managed 35 mpg! I'm impressed. The car has 143000 miles on and I expected the worst, but apart from replacing the brake pads, my whole week was trouble free. I did 1100 miles, a lot of which was on unsurfaced forest trails. Thanks Volvo!

Oh, and by the way, sometimes when I start her up in the morning I get a little whine from the cambelt tensioner. Is this a little warning or nothing to worry about?

LOOKING FOR PARTS FOR A 1994 VOLVO 440. I NEED TO LOCATE FRONT ROTORS AND PADS, REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS AND A CLUTCH KIT. I NEED TO SHIP THESE PARTS TO JAMACA FOR A FRIEND. ANY HELP WOULD BE AWESOME. NO ONE IN THE U.S. HAS HEAR OF THESE CARS. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

i have a 1994 440, recently purchased. now got to the time of year for the heater. sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. mostly seems to work on longer runs. temp guage reads midway. you cam move the temp lever around ok, seems to cause something behind the dash to make a noise, but seems very intermittent. anynody any clus. i'm wellcold.

Hi everyone

Just wondering if its possible to take the rear headrests out of a volvo 400 li temporarily so i can put a seat cover over.

many thanks

nutter

HI all

I am a mechanic (but only work on Nissans usually) but my Sister drives an old Volvo 440 1.8i . The car would occasionally get a flat battery for no apparent reason.

Last time however, she got the lady next door to give her a jump start. Car would not start and even with a freshly charged battery, it still won't start.

I wonder if she put the cables on back to front and blew something up. (She says she didn't but..... ya know)

Turns over great but no spark and no smell of fuel from the exhaust. Test lamp shows no power at fuel pump fuse, so I think the whole EFI system is down. Can't see any burnt cables or fuses. Dash warning lights all come on etc.

There is no power at the coil pack either.

Tried switching the alarm off at its keyswitch also just incase it was immobilising.

Any ideas? And anyone got a spare ECU or someting.

She wants to scrap the car and just go out and buy another £200 cheapie, but I think this volvo deserves a chance to be mended.. its rock solid underneath, and I think it is a crime to scrap a car that isn't rusty.

Can you help me save this car?

Thanks in advance, Will

Hi All,

I'm after a bit of help as I don't have a Haynes Manual to hand and would like to see a few images of the 400 series front suspension. Any model will do as I think they're all pretty much the same?

Thanks in advance,

Woz

Hi everyone
Do anyone knows what is the relay described by B2 on electric diagram for?

Hi all,

I'm New here and I've just been given a '91 440 1800cc.

It's running very well but a little rough so I'm starting by changing the plugs, can anyone tell me the correct spark gap please ... If it makes any difference I going to fit NGK ZGR5B plugs.

Secondly, when I got her, she was running hot at speed and the coolant system was full of rusty water - the car had been left unused for 3 years!

I drained/flushed the system fully and all's clean now, but she's running a bit cold now (outside temp is only ~5C).

I'm going to change the thermostat, anything I should know or watch out for when I do?

TIA
Mike

Hi, I'm new here- hope you can help.

I have a '95 440 1.6i (poverty spec- must be the last car of its size/price with wind up windows front and rear!) which for a few years now has idled somewhat roughly and far too high (approx 1200 rpm). However, it very rarely stalls or causes any other problems (although occasionally it will cut out and fail to restart for about a minute or so).

Recently I found out about the diagnostic box and received the following codes (port 2)- 132, 232, 222, 123. After resetting, restarting and letting the car idle for a few mins, the following immediately returned: 132, 222.

What do these codes actually mean in practice? I have Mr Gumkowdki's excellent code list, but I'm not a mechanic- what is the "system relay coil" for instance.

A bit of extra background: for other reasons, the crankshaft sensor and lambda sensor have been replaced, but without any reduction or change in engine idle speed.

When I bought it, idle speed was fine. Soon after it developed a problem of regularly cutting out and not restarting. A mechanic (friend,part time) fixed this but at the expense of this idle speed problem. I remember that he said it was something at (or attached) to the coil that needed replacing (sorry for being a wee bit vague here)- don't know if this helps.

I thank you in advance for any help or advice you may be able to give me.

p.s. Otherwise the car has given me 4 years or so of reliable service- including the odd return trip from Glasgow to London, all for the princely sum of £500

Hi

I've got a strange problem that my 1994 1.8li 440 won't start for approx an hour after it has been driven for any more than about five mins. It came off the back of having a weird idling problem where the revs used to shoot up and down and the car used to cut out at traffic lights. I had a garage change the stepper motor and that has been fine since. I had assumed this problem was part of the original problem but it still remains.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should point the garage in the direction of? My local garage has had the car for about 6 weeks in total with the idling and now this problem and are not finding anything.

Thanks in advance

Following the death of my beloved 440 I have official volvo roof bars for sale. Good condition

Well, here goes the story that let up to the problem.

Due to a broken glove box the glove box light stayed on and flattened the battery. Trying to start the car from another with booster cables failed. Simply wouldn't turn the starter motor. Finally I changed the battery and the car started fine. After a short test turned the ignition key and the engine stopped.

Later the same day I took the car for a little trip. At the destination turned the ignition key and pulled it out of the ignition. The engine kept running. The only way for me to kill the engine was popping the clutch. With the engine killed, the ignition stays on (radio, heater, etc) even with the key off.

The first thing that springs to mind i guess would be a faulty ignition switch? But baring in mind the battery has just been changed could it maybe be a bad ground? Have anyone had a similar problem - please let me know your experience.

Thanks,
Thomas

Hi all ,
I have had a 1995 460TD for 5 years now, with no problems at all, 160,000 miles on the clock, and hoping to double it. Well the problem is it runs so well that it doesn't want to stop. 2 nights ago I was driving along and noticed a slight loss in power. I thought it might be the turbo or something. I was running low on diesel and I was on my way to the Service Station to get some.. I also thought it might have been because I was running low on fuel. Anyway I made it to the pumps and switched off the engine. Filled her up and switched her back on again, still noticed the slight loss of power. I made it home and switched off the ignition and took the key out but.....???? The engine kept running even though all the ignition lights were off and the key was in my pocket. The only light on was the battery light. I couldn't switch it off no matter what I tried. The only way to stop the engine was to stick her in gear and let her cut out with one foot on the brake and engaging the clutch. Has anyone any idea what could be wrong? A neighbour said it could be a fuse for the fuel pump blown , I haven't had a chance to check them yet. Anyway I await your expert advice............
ROZ

hmm let me see, my volvo ran fine, till i put in tank 95 benzin, before i used 100. At first, the car started to stall in low rpms, and i heard a bang in exhaust (missfire). I checked all, replaced sparks, replaced spark plugs, air filter, idle valve and it isnt any good.

Now the car is hard to start, it missfires, it hasnt got that much power than before, the turbo is filling only 0,25 bar, before 0,5 bar.

When i use high rpms, like on 3rd gear with 3000 rpm, the car works great, if i reach 2000 rpm, car starts to "pull" and "jump" a little.

If i disconnect oxygen sensor, the car starts ok, it reaches 3500 rpm and it runs ok, till i add gas.


its a pain if anyone can help pls.

oh, today i tried to disconnect lamda sond from catalysator, no effect, so i reconnected it. If i use trouble codes, car gives me 1-1-1 no error.

strange.


car: 1993 440 turbo

My worst nightmare has come true!!!

The timing belt on the missus 460 1.8 has snapped at roughly 10 mph

what i'm wondering is whether this is an interference engine??
I've been told that its the renault engine which means that the head will be mullered is this correct???

So far i've been told that it will cost 600 to supply and fit a re-con head and new belt,But what i'm wondering is if the head will have survived or not??

Is there any way i can check before spending anything on it cos to be honest the way it looks just now it could be getting scrapped!!!


Just a thought !!! will the renault engine drop straight in or are there any differences????

HI,
My '91 volvo 460 turbo as been stopped for some time and i started to give it some use, but it has some problems:

1. in cold/wet days, when i start the car, it chokes and stop running, i have to press the gas pedal so it keeps runnig ( some times for 10 mins). After that period when i release the gas pedal the car enters (some times) in a state where the engine is working but at very very low rotations , so low that the car shakes, it also doesn't produce (almost) any sound. some times when i acelerate, the car "jumps back and forth";

2. the rev conter many times doesn't work, after some time it works in a intermittent way going up and down when the engine rotations are constant. some times it works well;

3. the abs light is on (do i have to take it to volvo's);


and that's it, as you can see the problem that bothers me most is the first one, if someone could help me....

M reg 440 starts and runs perfectly but if left for 36 hours the battery goes completely dead - unless I disconnect the earth.

Jump starts first time and a 3 mile journey to work will give enough charge for it to work at end of the day, but no longer.

New battery and new alternator.

Anybody got any ideas as to what could be causing the drain and how to solve it?

Barry

Hi I need drawings that show the gear linkage for part numbers and some info on why the car comes out of 5 gear sometimes and sticks in gears as well.
Thanks
cmcc440

Hi! I own a 460 turbo, and i have to say that i love the car, but it as some problems and i would like to bring it back to shape myself. so i would need the haynes manual. does anyone have it in .pdf format or something like that? 'cause i've tryied to buy it but i can't find a way to get it (i even tryied amazon but the sellers didn't deliver to my country).
in advance

Hi this is my first time on ere !!

I have a volvo 440si K reg the problem i have is when i been driving for about 5 mins and pull up at lights my engine revs are at 1100 and rev on there own up to 2000 could any one assist me with any help to this problem as i aint got the cash to take it in the garage ?????
Thanks wozkeo !

Just bought a 2.0ltr GLT with major dash issues.
Firstly I had no Info Centre or dash lights.
I dismantled the instrument panel, couldnt find much wrong, rebuilt it and it worked apart from lighting.
Ive managed to bridge a wire from the lighting circuit to the speedo pod and it now all illuminates too.
HOWEVER!
This morning the whole thing has given up, even rev counter, all plugs are secure etc, i only get warning lights etc for SRS and ABS etc.
Not sure where to turn now, would an instrument panel from a different 440 work in mine? for example one without info centre?

Just fitted the instrument cluster from a 440 turbo into mine (440 2.o ltr GLT ) same plugs and electronic instead of speedo cable, (mine had a catastrophic Info Centre failure) all working ok now except the fuel gauge which did briefly make an appearance and then stopped, although the orange light does come on (every now and then), seems like a fuel gauge is common failure, how come noone has sussed it out yet?
Does anyone know the ins and outs of removing the alarm/immobiliser? Mine seems to have been by-passed causing all kinds of silly problems ( no dash lights, no fuel gauge, no central locking, no clock and no ionterior lighting, everything excep locking works with ignition on, when its off though everything is off completely! Even have to reprogram the radio again. I have a red LED on constantly whilst driving too.
Is it just a waste of time trying to fix this beast?
I do really enjoy putting vauxhall corsa owners to shame with my beasty but fear its just going to burst into flames at the earliest opportunity.

My Glt has developed a problem with the wipers, while everything works ok the intermittent wipe just stops where it feels like it, usually when you let go of the stalk!
Its as though the stalk is solely responsible for controlling the wipers position when on intermittent, anyone had this and how was it solved, thanks

Hi folks, newbie here.
I've just purchased a very tidy 460CD. The only problem I've noticed was yesterday, after a drive of about 1 hour, the dimmer switch (for the dashboard instrument lights) on the steering column was so hot to touch that it burnt!. The "info" display is very dim (which is why I was playing with the dimmer switch). And the whole display dims when I switch on the heater fans.

1. Are the two facts connected?

2. The heating is obviously due to some sort of electrical impedance (there my knowledge ends!). How does one get at the switch to check it out (or what should I be checking?)

3. Any other advice welcome!

Thanks

Hi

I have a 1994 volvo 440. I had a after market radio installed, which has now been stolen. I am trying to fit the old one, but as the wiring adaptor went with the stolen radio, i am at a loss.

The radio was fitted at halfords.

I am trying to figure out what the original colours and sized wires mean in the volvo, so that I can wire it up to a spare adaptor that I have, which unfortunately used the new colour scemes.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks
David

Hello Volvo 440 drivers. My friend parked Volvo 440 11 & half years ago in garage , not to look at it again......., then to ask me to check it out now ..... Engine turned , got the hind wheels unlocked eventually , and engine started.......Then after standing still , suddenly alarm went off. How do I stop this ( yes battery unplugged , and it stopped ). Engine won't start with alarm on, apart from horrible claxon noise. Help . G reg Volvo 440 . Thank you !

Hi

I was wondering if any of you could help me find some aftermarket headlight for my 1997 volvo 460 2.0i

I´m lookink for angel eyes

Please help me find them

Thanks to all

Greetings all,

I've got my old 440 sitting in the drive, perfectly driveable if you don't mind going everywhere in 4th that is....Gearbox went bang on me a while back and had to be piggybacked home

It's a tossup between being a restoration project for someone or a good source of spares for another car.

158,471 miles on the clock, I got the car in '02 with 78K, bought it from my neighbour whose wife had used it for a couple of years so I knew the history.

It's white with a black leather interior and in pretty good nick for a M plate, the usual rear nearside wheel arch problem though.

I had to get the engine rebuilt at 110K (all new valves etc) due to the timing belt going, and last year to get it through the MOT it needed new rear shocks and the catalytic converter was renewed. Power steering pump was renewed late in 2007 and the timing belt was renewed again at that stage. I've got all the receipts etc.

Still starts first time of asking (but you have to sit on the clutch as it's stuck in fourth....) and sounds good. MOT is just about up now

I'd get a scrap gearbox and do the job myself if I had the time, but I don't hence this post.

Also, as it's group 11 insurance it's too big for my daughter as a first car

I'm in Stewarton, about eight miles north of Kilmarnock, about twenty miles south of Glasgow.

Anyone interested?

I'll happily post piccies on here as well for further information over the next day or so.

Regards,

Geoffupnorth

I've been doing some idle net surfing and found out that the Volvo 440 GL and GLT were the only 400 series models sold in Oz.

The 440 GL/GLT came with the 2.0 litre F series Renault engine with a bore and stroke of 82.70 x 93.00 respectively.

The 400 series turbo has a bore and stroke 81.00 x 83.50.

With the above in mind, what would be needed to covert the 1998cc GLT engine to turbo? Does the Turbo engine have a stronger (forged) crank? If so, could the crank and conrods be used with custom pistons to give 82.70 x 83.50 bore and stroke?

Is the head the same on both engines? Will manifolds bolt straight up?

I want to fit the engine to my Renault 5 GT Turbo.

Thanks in advance

Sorry, forgot to say hello!

Over the past month or so my 92 440 has been losing about a pint of water every day, could I find it - No, no visible water coming out, nothing, I used some of that ceramic sealant stuff- no