Volvo 440, 460 & 480 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Ok here it is as promised.
This morning was the time to replace the leaky water pump on my 440 - up at 7.30 and started about 8. first job - drain the radiator - well in my case attempt to - I took the drain out of the bottom and nothing came out. ok ignore that step - the water will come out when I take the pump off anyway.
Jack up the car, and take the front right wheel off. ok look near the engine and remove the plastic water splash guard which is held on by 2 10mm head screws. (to find these remove the pipe clipped to this plate and feel up along the angle at the top of this splash guard).
ok now I can see half of the water pump - how to get to the rest of it- the answer - remove the alternator (I didnt disconnect it just took all the bolts out and swung it out of the way). That did the job I can see the top half now.
There are 9 bolts holding the water pump on - for one of these you will need a 11mm open ended spanner - in fact I found that mine was still in my work toolbox 46 miles away so borrowerd the daughters pushbike and biked down to the local tool hire place that opened at 8.30 and bought an 11mm spanner and socket (where do they dissapear to). There is also a hidden 10mm bolt holding the bottom of the cam belt cover in place. The next hour was spent undoing these 10 bolts as there is no room for a socket and very little space to turn a spanner.
I used the spanner and a very small 1/4" drive t bar. the bolts arent too tight though so its fairly easy. All the bolts are awkward to get to - unless you are a piano player with extremely long strong fingers.
I left the pully on the pump (as I later found out you cant get it off withe the pump installed as ther isnt the space for it to come off its flange). This came off fairly easily despite the tight-ish bolts when I put a screwdriver theough the pump vanes for purchase (you wouldnt want to do this if you were putting the pump back in).
Installation. this is pretty much the reverse of removeal, one trick I found was to only finger tighten the pully on the pump with a couple of the bolts, then when it is in position take these out again - this allows you to move the pully out of the way while you are tightening the main pump holding bolts up, then you bolt up the pully, replace the drive belt and then the alternator (without dropping the alternator nut down that handy hole in the chassis like I did). fill the coolinfg system with water / antifreeze mix, then before putting the cover plates/splash guards back or the wheel check there are no leaks by running the engine up to temperature. OK that all worked ok so splash guards and wheel back on - Finished Tra-La-LA.
Grendel

Recently I have had a very slight coolant leak somewhere - I have looked over the system and couldnt find it, I was topping up about a pint a day.
Having replaced the top radiator hose and flushed the system to clear out the heater which was blocked I was at a loss why there was still a small area that showed drip marks around the left hand side of the car. This morning (despite a stinking cold) I went out and really started hunting along with a mirror on a stick to get into those awkward places you just cannot reach or see. Well the upshot is that with the engine running there is a slight leak from somewhere in the area of the water pump, I can see it dripping from the bottom of the pump (via the mirror)
does this mean I need to replace the pump, or just the gasket? I guess I will need to order a gasket anyway, but at the moment i am feeling too bad to face stripping down the area around the wheelarch to get in and have a closer look, but on the other hand I do need to get any parts on order.
So I guess I am asking wether it will be the gasket or the seal on the shaft of the pump? (I am willing to bet it will be the expensive option)
Thanks for any assistance
Grendel

Hi all
A newie customer i've just bought a 480 1995 celebration which is great.
But yesterday when driving back from work i had pressed the passenager side button and the window dropped.So took door panel off thinking a quick fix but have found the cable has come off the green wheel it sits on to pull the window up.
Any clues on how it suppose to sit on the runner (i.E. Diagram)and if i would need a new lifting component ??

Hi

I've just recently bought my 2nd 440. Does anyone know what the idle revs should be? This one i feel is quite high and sounds high at about 1100-1200 rpm. My last one was about 900rpm

Also does anyone know if i can adjust it myself or do i need to take it to a tuning garage?

Cheers

Hi there. I'm brand new to the forum and apologise for seeking advice straight away but your forum looks very useful. I have owned a 340, a 240 est, 2 740 ests and 2 440 GLTs.

I have a misfire on my 1995 440 1.8 GLT which I have owned for 8 years and done 80k miles it in. On a cold start the engine is lumpy. In 1st and 2nd in works fine and the misfire goes at about 3000 revs. It's worse in higher gears as the engine is under more load, but again goes at about 3000 rpm. Otherwise the engine is very smooth and has retained most of its power even after 124k miles.

Have read a similar topic and have replaced plugs and HT leads. Air and oil filter very recently replaced.

The bloke who washes the car in my office car park thinks that the mixture is too rich. I have observed that if the engine is stopped e.g filling up with petrol, and restarted very soon after, the problem disappears for a little while but then returns.

Don't think it's the head gasket as there are no obvious visual signs, leakages, oil and water levels constant and no contamination of coolant on visual inspection.

The clutch is going so I'm reluctant to spend too much on it. I'm not a mechanical expert but can do an oil change etc no problem. I have a quite well used Haynes manual!

Anybody have any ideas to try to solve the problem?

Thanks for reading this.

pforsey

Hi people,
I am new to the forum. Greetings to everyone !!!

My mother has a 1996 Volvo 440 1.9TDI, which is maintened by myself, and today I got really frustrated with it, because I can not possibly find where the A/C (cabin) filter is mounted of located?!?!

Please, help me with some directions, because piles of dust get into the car nonstop!!!


Thank you for the support!!!!

Yavor

The heating / cooling fan doesn't work on the last click of the fan switch.

Is it the rotary switch behind the fan control that is broken or is it something else?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Tiny

Hi,

I'm a newbie here but I've had my 480 Celebration since January. It is a wonderful car but with the hot weather I need the air con blower controls and all of a sudden they have gone intermittent. The AC max setting works OK but the others turn on and off at random and without a pattern.

I suspect a relay or a resistor but you probably know exactly what is going on.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Hear from you soon,

Colin.

Hi, my name is Sergio and I live in Costa Rica. I just bought a 1994 460SE and I need to buy the air filter. This car is not common in my country so I need to buy the filter abroad. Anyone can give me a part number I can use. Locally I have access to brands like Fram, Purolator, LuberFiner or K&N in case someone knows the part number. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

SZ

We got the car on quite a high mileage, however it was claimed to be a good vehicle with it recently passing it's MOT fine... 800-900 miles since we have got it it started making the loudest roaring sound. To me it sounds like the exhaust is having problems but we can't find any helpful suggestions online as to what the problem could actually be...

Ok heres the problem - Late last night I ordered a pickup takeaway - was told 10 minutes and went and got in the car - started up, threw it into a U turn to get out of my close and it just died. nothing - no response - still had all the dash lights and everything.
Well I borrowed the daughters pushbike and cycled for all I was worth and got my takeaway - came home and ate it - went back to the car - no joy, so I left it for this morning.
Got up at 6 (we are going to the mother in laws for dinner today so the cars got to be working - right) went out to the car - tested the voltage at the coil - no volts= no spark.
OK what next. In the past I had a water leak into the connector for the ECU (engine management bit in the right footwell side panel), OK take the panel off - disconnect the connector - sure enough signs of water - looking bad.
Pulled the ECU, as I removed it the water started pouring out - Ah-Ha. pulled the cover off, took the circuit board out, dried it (at this point I plugged it in - engine started - yippee. Now being that its pouring down still and it has been all night - everythings wet so there is no chance of sealing any leak - what to do - I dont want the water getting in and breaking dowwn in the middle of nowhere rather than outside the house, so I thinks electrical tape and seal around the case of the ECU - Hmm still not happy, what if the water gets round the tape. Well here is the solution, a large ziplock food bag, placed the ECU into the bag - Top first, remounted the ECU (had to poke 2 small holes through the bag for the mounting screws- but hey these are at the bottom - so thats ok) fitted connector, zipped the bag as tight as I could to the cable, replaced side panels - checked and car started beutifully - and the added bonus, the rev counter that had been a bit sporadic is working ok again too.
My next job (when the rain stops) remove the trim around the front of the widscreen and check for leaks ( big gun of silicon sealant to the ready)
Note i also found a big puddle in the front bay, around the fusebox - poked my finger through the drain hole and cleared the muck out and that went away.

Grendel

Ok a few weeks ago I noticed that my top hose was very soft and balooning out at the thermostat end, that and a low running temp made me suspect a dodgy thermostat.
So I ordered the parts and picked them up on the way home last night. This morning was not the best weather, but choosing a dry spell I started to get to work.
I took off the radiator hose and thermostat casing, the radiator end is a pig to get to as it is in front of the engine bay wall between the wall and the rad. I found if I took thesecuring plate off the top I could ease the rad forward a bit and get an extra 1/4" or so to play with.
The job went well except for cleaning all the corrosion and limescale from around the old thermostat, that took quite a while, duriong which I was soaked from head to foot as it tipped it down with rain.
after refitting and refilling I ran the engine to test - water temp was up to a reasonable level before the thermostat cut in, and water circulates ok when it does - aux water pump and fan both kicked in when I shut the enfgine off and cutout again after a few minutes cooling, so everything is working ok again.
all in all an easy job - i am glad I caught it before the pipe burst as that could have lead to major damage and a wait for new parts to arrive. It looks like this was its original hose - at 177,000 miles thats not too bad.
so just remember its better to replace things before they go than after and mostly the work can
be done at a convenient time too (preferrably when its not raining, but I needed the car later so it was then or next weekend and I didnt want to take that chance.
Grendel

Hi all,

New to the group, and asking for help rightaway... sorry about that!

Bought a 440 2.0i SE on an N plate (1995) a few weeks ago. Took it for a run and didn't spot anything amiss, but a week or so later I noticed a bit of a misfire, mainly at tickover/low down (say below 2,500 revs). Tickover could drop below 600, and I even had the car stall a couple of times when pulling away because of it.

I took it to a backstreet garage because the exhaust was also blowing (welded it for £10, happy there at least) and he said he didn't know what was causing it but it looks like it hasn't been serviced for a long time so would recommend starting with the distributor cap + rotor arm.

I did that - still misfiring. I bought new plugs - still the same. So then I replaced the HT leads, and it ALMOST went away. It was still misfiring, but nowhere near as badly as before. So at the next fill up I put redex into the tank, and it now is running absolutely shocking, worse than before. Bear in mind that I have only done 30 miles since, is this likely to improve?

Can someone please tell me why my immobiliser light keeps flashing even when i'm driving? It is quite distracting whilst driving.

We have just got this second hand off of one of my family whom I don't talk to much and they said they'd checked oil etc, but the oil light comes on when I turn round steep corners etc and we need to out some screenwash in. However, we can't find a lever to pop the bonnet anywhere, we've been looking for a good day now and on the manual all it says to do anything with the bonnet is "open the bonnet"... I thought manuals were supposed to be O.T.T. with instructions ;P

Can anyone tell me where the lever is, as it may have broken off and we don't know! :S

My 2000 440 SE auto only slips into 4th gear at 45mph. I feel that this is a little high especailly as it is no use when town driving.

It has been suggested to me that changing the fluid might help but my local dealer has given conflicting advice, one saying that it can be drained whilst another said it was a sealed unit. Neither of them mentioned having the box serviced, only reconditioned which of course, would run into hundreds of pounds.

My question is; is it possible to drain the fluid and if so, how?

LOOKING FOR A 440 TURBO IF ANYONE KNOWS OF ANY PLEASE. THANKS GUYS

Hello all,

I have a second hand Volvo 440 1.8i (1995).

I would like change my radio car and I dismantled the old one.

Surprise, when I would like to connect the new one, the outlet is completely different.

Is Someone could give me the schema or description of the "radio outlet" of my car ?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Etienne

Im looking for some where I can download a picture or diagram of which fuses and relays are for what!
Its the one on the inside of the triangular lid that is on the relay/fuse box in the engine bay.
The pice of paper that was on mine has fallen off.

My Sons 1994 460 -2 litre injection will not start. I filled it up with petrol on Tuesday, drove it home then left it parked in the driveway until Friday then came out to start it and it will not start.

The Engine turns over fine but refuses to start. I suspect fuel problems as after turning over the engine with one HT lead disconnected and then checking the plug. It was bone dry suggesting lack of fuel. Fuel pump fuse is OK.

How do you get at the fuel pump ? and can you hear it ?

Thanks for any ideas

Rick

hi folks
on 15/7/06 i was driving on A720 (edinburgh bye-pass) heading for north berwick
without warning i lost all power luckily i freewheeled to a layby
when greenflag arrived the mechanic said air had entered the deisel system
after he bled the injectors i was on my way,after about 100 miles same thing happened again i then bled the injectors haven't done 100 miles yet lol
i wasn't low on fuel
any ideas what could cause my problem

Hi there, I have just purchased a 1995 460 SE 2.0 as a commuter vehicle. I was aware that central locking is a common problem on them, but my car seems to have had the central locking completely disabled - I can only lock doors by bressing down buttons or by key. In this limbo period before I buy a Haynes manual, what should I check first? The fuse seems to be OK for starters. I noticed that in the engine bay the harness breakout to the alarm siren has been disconnected. Apart from this, I haven't a clue where to start! Any pointers? Cheers!

Hi all,

Has anyone managed to connect an ipod to the volvo tapedeck? - can it be done?

Thanks

Stevie

Well, my last post got a quick and useful response, so here's another test for you: does anyone know how to renew the instrument panel light bulbs, or more specifically where are they and how do you get to them? The previous owner of my car used an LED torch fixed with Blu-tack!

Hi,

Over the last couple of days, I have been driving but every so often when i need to start my car, it sometimes fails but sometimes doesn't (everything works - radio etc - the dashboard lights come on) but the engine doesn't make any noise (click or turnover).

Any suggestions would be helpful!

Thanks

Ok last night I first noticed this, this morning it was fine and this evening on the way home from work, my rev counter was jumping all over the place.
I suspected a problem I had a couple of months ago when water got into the connector for the engine management unit, sure enough there was a little water - I drilled a small drain hole in the connector so it lets the water out again. but clearing this didnt clear the problem, in fact it continued to deteriorate, wiggleing wires etc had absolutely no effect - no engine codes are being generated and the car is running beutifully. I am starting to suspect the rev counter unit itself, now when I turn on the ignition it flicks right over to max, reads nicely for a few minutes then just drops out altogether.
Am I right in suspecting the actual instrument? maybe the hot weather has got to it?
any ideas?
Grendel

Please can you tell me where to find the horn on my 460- it's not obvious.

I have a problem on a 96 460SE.
When the engine cold starts ther is a uneaven misfire which is less noticable when warm.

I had a problem a couple of months ago where the battery would not charge so I replaced it and the alternator which cured the problem.

Is the misfire related or can it be somthing more sinister.

Just got hold of an MOT failure 440 turbo - (exact details to follow once collected)

As this is my first TURBO...

I'd like some suggestions of the best things to do to it for (reliability and/or) performance, etc... (preferably in priority order - ie do i need a turbo timer and boost controller first before anything else or what?)

Thanks

we have a 91 460 GLE Injection and trying to fit a new radio - the harness i got from Halfords states it is for a 460 from 1987 to 1995 yet the connectors in the car itself are totally different and the Halfords Harness does not work - has anyone had this problem and can throw any light on what connector - otherwise I will have to try and hardwire it
WGL

Hello friends, I haven't posted for a while because the 440 has been running OK. However today...

Driving along quite happily around 30mph in 3rd gear and engine died completely. Power steering gone... manhandled (womanhandled???) 440 into handy carpark right beside us.

When I turn the ignition no engine lights come on - no fuel light, no glow plug light, no brake test light, no battery light - nothing on that side of the dash in fact. The sidelight indicator on left still comes on though.

I can turn the car over but it won't rattle.

I COULD have run out of diesel again (sender is faulty and while I try to watch my mileage it's always feasible I've messed up). I didn't think it was near to empty but then, one never does when it runs out! LOL Otherwise we'd fill up right?

I can't explain the problems with the engine lights though...

Any advice available would be gratefully received as always.

My Volve 460's air conditioner fuse burnt immediately when it was turned on. Can anyone help to suggest what is the problem?

Alan.

my new 440 turbo is red,

and it has that standard red fadded look that all red cars over 10 years old have,

any way to make it shine again?

T-cut, auto-glym?

what are the best products... what works??

Thanks

Hi there. My name's Jonny and I'm just doing some research on Volvo 440's.
My great uncle who lives next door is selling his 1992 440 GLT 1.7 injection for £700.
It's not had a great deal of use (57,000 miles) and has spent most of it's life in a garage so there's only a tiny spot of rust.
All electrics are working as is the engine which has also just had a brand new clutch fitted.

Is this a reasonable asking price for this car?

Cheers,

Jonny

Hi

New to the forum but sure will be back.

Just purchased my 4th volvo (age 32), the missus can't stand them but I love 'em.

It's a 440 1.8 LE and picking it up today.

Does anybody know or have a document detailing what needs to be done for the 60000 miles service. I phoned the local volvo garage and they mentioned something about belts need replacing but didn't mention which ones or anything else that should be done. I would go with the dealer if it wasn't for the high prices.

I was thinking of getting a list for the 60,000 miles service and going down to a local backstreet garage and to see what they could do it for.

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

Steve

UK