Volvo 440, 460 & 480 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

hi all,

having introduced myself in a previous thread this is probably a stupid question to ask but

WHERE IS THE STARTER MOTOR on a volvo 440?

having changed one in a 240 estate, i find the 440 very cumbersome and trying, with haines manual in hand, i removed the aircleaner/filter, and half expected it to be underneth there somewhere, but i cant find it. i have a new one to put on, i didnt jack the car up,thinking i could find it first, but i really have no idea where im looking.

Can anyone help, i thought i could tackle it myself as haines say is 2 spanner job, not much experience required, but with two heads looking and not seeing, can anyone advise.?

I also have a niggly problem with the windscreen wiper fluid warning light, despite it being full, the warning light still keeps flashing away there. do i have to replace the sensor? or is it the warning light itself, if its the sensor, any easy way to sort this out?

many thanks in advance for any advice you can give me

donna
scotrat animal rescue

dumfries scotland

Hi,

I have a Volvo 440 1.6i. Recently the coolant empties, very quickly. The car never overheats and temp is always about 1/3.

When I fill up coolant, it does not leak from underneath etc.

Any ideas? Many Thanks

Hello all

I have a problem removing one of the nuts on my fuel pump/sender. I have tried loosing it with wd 40 and by heating the nut but it will not budge...........HELP

Reading through the forum i see this is a common problem.My 440 1.8 slowly rises on tickover from 900 rpm to 4000 rpm?!!. If i blip the throttle this sometimes sorts it out and it drops back to 1000 rpm. Have changed the air filter and no help?. Any ideas on this one. the car had a full sevice just 2000 miles ago with all things changed ie plugs, filters, leads, fluids, Any help would be appreciated.
cheers

Hi All,

I have only been using this message board for about a week now and have found the information exceptionally helpful.

So far with the help of the members of this site I have solved my overheating problem along with with my heater problem. It has been a bit hit and miss with how I did it; and I have had a few surprises along the way.

I am now getting to problem that I think I may need help with that can't be solved using the net.

What I wanted to ask was: Is there anyone in the home counties that would be willing to guide me with what to do and how to? I am NOT asking for someone to do it for me, just give me a kick if I about to kill my 440.

I have no mechanical knowledge and have pretty much got by on a little knowledge ( to this site) and luck.

Many in advance

M

Hello!

Does anybody knows how to remove dashboard components on 1996 460 - the instrument panel and the heater control panel.

Hints are

Thanks!

Hi,

I have a Volvo 440 1.6i and therefore do not have remote locking (only have central locking). I was wondering if I can add Remote Locking to my car using a Kit and which one? I do not have any car electrical knowledge and therefore do not want very difficult instructions etc.

Many Thanks

Ps. I tried to change my oil the other day and found that I couldnt? Is there a special key i need? It was so tight and impossible to turn.

Hi fellas just got myself a new toy to play with after cleaning the engine today ..i found one rubber pipe blocked by greasy mayonaise stuff ..what is this part and is it normal...even after cleaning the cars running the same brilliant as ever..
cheers

My 480 keeps losing power - as if I suddenly pulled my foot off the accelerator. It is intermittent and doesn't seem to change with engine temperature, so not a cold start problem. It generally comes back on again - usually when I have my foot to the floor trying to get going.

THere has been a longer standing problem of cutting out, usually when decelerating - don't know if the new problem is related.

Any ideas?

Hello everybody! Just thought I'd say a quick hello before I start to bother you with my car troubles.
Well, I've only got one major problem so far (after 10 years).
My loocal mechanic suspects an ECU failure after eliminating Fuel Pump, Modules, Immobiliser, etc.

The car would run for a day or two, even a week; problem-free. Then SUDDENLY, it will cut out and refuse to start. If left for a while (maybe 5-10 mins), it will start and be OK until the next failure.

As from last week, it has refused to start full stop. The engine turns over quite lively but it doesn't pick up and run or on the few occasions that it managed to start, it cuts out within 2-3 seconds.

I have contacted my local Volvo dealer who wants to charge £150.00 for a diagnosis, then £80.00 per hr labour charge plus parts and Vat (the part could be as much as £500.00

I am interested to know if this problem can be rectified without going to the dealer. My local mechanic recons the ECU is located under the Dash and bolted on the Firewall. He is also unwilling to take on the task of replacing the part (as you've guessed, I've said goodbye to him).

I am in need of help.
The car is in such a good condition and has been very reliable over the years that it hurts me to part with it for a single fault.

Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

Originaldan.....

Hello everyone.
I am searching for a replacement ECU for a 1996 440 1.8 GSi
Its the model with the single point injection and automatic transmission.

The existing ECU was manufactured by Siemens and the number on it reads: (S111705113 E ).

If anyone has one lying about unused or is about to scrap their 440 with an identical part, I would like to purchase it.
London or home counties Please

Thanks in advance.
Originaldan

Wakened by neighbour at 4 a.m. to tell me my car horn was blaring. Dead of night, wasn't the alarm, dark, wet, windy and in pj's. Unlocked the car and got in and horn stopped. Took hands off steering wheel and horn started. Hands on - horn stops, Hands off, horn starts. Temporary fix - jam a cushion between steering wheel and dashboard then tiptoe to bed. Next morning horn went berserk when I removed the cushion but stopped when I touched the plastic casing just under the steering wheel. Took fuse out. Anyone any ideas? Ta Lawrie

Please please someone help me. Have a 440 si 1.8 M 1994 reg and its a dream of a car. But only one problem, I start the car, run it and after a little while it starts to stutter, then it stalls and wont work at all. I have replaced EVERYTHING and I still have the problem. Any hints welcome as me and baby are stranded at home until I can get this sorted. Description of fault is when it stalls, I start the engine again and it runs, as soon as i put down clutch and release the throttle, the revs die. I am at my wits end.

TY

hi all, i must start by saying im new to this web site and also these forum type things

i own a 95 volvo 460 but it seems i have no headlights on main beam - when i flick the main beam the lights seem to go back to the sidelights - i wondered if theres a relay somewhere which may not be working

thanks if you can help me
kev g

My 1996 460 has been having problems starting. When the key is turned the dash lights come on normally except the green light for o2 sensor . When this light is off the car wont start but if you leave the car for 10 mins the light comes on and the engine fires up first turn as this is a intermitent problem i am having trouble tracing the fault .Can anyone help

Hello!

I took out relays (under the bonnet) and put them on the table in right order. But later i throw screwdriver on the table and messed up everything . Now I have little request for you - is there anyone so kind and will take a photo of relays under the hood for me. I looked up for informations in VADIS, but i was unable to find anything useful. My 460 is 1995, elder versions have different relay/fuse boxes.

Thanks!

Hello everybody! I am eighteen and I got my driver license in the middle of September. This is my first car - my Volvo. I am very proud of it .

Hi All,

After changing the air filter and the spark plugs in a Volvo 480 Turbo B18FT-107 (1989 model) it started to behave very strangely:
- the engine stalls quite often (the car is basically unusable)
- the engine and the exhaust pipe are overheating very badly
- the fuel comsumption has increased dramatically
- the spark plugs are moist and blackish (looks like some sort of soot)
Somebody suggested that the temperature sensor might be faulty, so I've changed that one too, but with no result. I also tried to put the old air filter, spark plugs and temperature sensor back, but the car still doesn't work properly.
Any idea what could be wrong? Could anyone recommend something else to try?

Thanks

Hi every1 I'm taking my 440 into the garage to get my exhaust put back on and have a new front pipe fitted the problem i have is the exhaust actually fell off when i was driving it. I went back and retrived it but i'm not sure (and this sounds silly) if its the right shape or if a cars driven over it should it have basiclly a 90 degree bend? and if anyone has a picture or diagram they could send me that would be great thanx. p.s its a 2.0i se 1994 thanx again

Hi,

I have a 1.6 Volvo 440 Manual Petrol.

My car does 28mpg Average per tank, does this sound right? What does your car do?

Many Thanks

Hi my 480 stopped yesterday and rac man checked wiring to fule pump and there is no power.
Anybody got a fuel pump going spare. It would help out my mechanic who is looking out for one.
thanks

hello everyone

my name is Corvin and i have a 440 glt from 1991, but unfortunetly i had a big accident and i had to change the front of the car(bonnet, headlamps, right fender)

but the biggest problem is that when i start the engine its idle is at 2000rpm, and after i move a couple of meters the idle varies continously between 1800-2000rpm

does anyone has any ideea about how to fix it?

thank you

The interior dash board lights keep cutting in and out and i can't find the problem.I have checked the bulbs in the heater controls and the clock and the ashtray and they all appear fine .the fuse in the main board is also fine!.Any ideas?.

Hi all,

I've got a 460.

The fan only kicks in when the needle almost touches the red area.
This happens in slow traffic etc.

At cruising speed the temp seems ok (between half + 3/4)

Is this normal?

I've noticed the temp sensor in the radiator is a three pin type. This usually means there are two speeds for the radiator fan . One slow for normal cooling and one fast when the temp is still too hot for high load circumstances (mountain driving etc). On most cars the fan starts slow when the temp rises past half way and switches to fast when the temp reaches very hot.

I suspect my problem is the fan not activating at slow speed and only starting at fast speed when the temp reaches very high. I've changed the temp sensor but no difference. So now I think the fan itself might be faulty.

I don't think it could be the the thermostat or air locks because then the temp would be high all the time (even at cruising speed). That is, if the thermostat is stuck then there would be no circulation to the rad even when cruising.

The other possibility is that the gauge is faulty. That is, when it reads near red the temp is actually at half. But I doubt this.

Am I correct with all of the above ? And where is the bleed screw ?

Thanks in advance
Daniel

Hi,

As I said in me introduction I've got a little overheating problem with my Volvo 440 1.8SE.

I drive on the motorway for 40mins or so to work, once I get off the motorway and hit the usual peak time crawling traffic the temp gauge rises to the red-line and I have to put the cabin heaters on at full blast with the windows wide open.

I've checked the coolant levels, fine no worries, no leaks.

I've purposely overheated on the driveway to see if the fan cuts in, it does but only when it actually hits the red-line.

I've drained the system to get at the thermostat, nice very clear free flowing blue liquid, no gunk at all, so I don't think the radiators blocked.

I've tested the thermostat and it opens and closes, but it only opened when the water reached boiling point.

So heres my questions:
Should the fan come on sooner?
Should the thermostat have opened sooner? What is the temp its supposed to open at? (not stamped on it like you would expect)
Could there be other problems?

I'm replacing the thermostat and refilling the system Monday. So your thoughts on whats happening would be great.

ps I know absolutely nothing about cars and engines, seriously its scary! I'm amazed I got this far, so imagine your writing any responses for an ****, in fact don't imagine!

Cheers Guys

pps wow sorry didn't realised I wrote so much, I do tend to go on!

Hi,

Can anyone let me know the location of a ECU coolant sensor on a 1.8i 1992 Volvo 440. I changed the Dash one by accident today and blocked the cooling system!

Thanks,

David

Can someone help i own a L reg 440 and the drivers side heated seat has stopped working. I changed the switch then found a broken wire under the seat so repaired that, i have power going to the seat but still nothing, the passenger side works fine.

hope someone can help as winter is coming!!!

Ok
so last weekend I fitted a new top radiator hose and thermostat, no problems there they are all working ok (in fact the thermostat is now working where it wasnt before. come the colder mornings and I turn the heater on for the first time in months to demist the screen - its ok at first, but with the blower on goes cold after a couple of minutes. a quick read and I spot the heater matrix is always in circuit, so its not a valve anywhere causing it - a few more min utes though tells me the matrix is blocked and water is only flowing very sluggishly (as it does reheat eventually when you turn it to cold and back to hot after a few minutes) Ok what to do - well stick some cooling system flush in (it hasnt been cleaned since before last winter - other than emptying and re-filling for the top hose).
So I drove to work and back (96 miles) - still very little heater - ok so I'm going to have to flush the system.
I let it cool for a while, then took both hoses off the heater matrix in the engine bay, connected a couple of short lengths of garden hose (long enough to get outside the engine bay) first i connected the garden hose (well at leats its some use with a hosepipe ban and all) and attached it to the input of the heater, gradually let the water flow and the back pressure blew it right off and soaked me.
OK so it is blocked. connected to the output and tried again, at first a very sluggish flow of brown sludge, then a big gout of sludge and more water coming out. after about 5 minutes the water was coming out clear, and quite fast, so I turned it off and reversed the hoses, so it was flowing the correct way, this was more successful this time and I had a decent flow (and more brown sludge) which cleared after a few minutes. Back to the reverse flow, more sludge, so I reversed the hoses a few more times until it came out clear in both directions from the start, ok so thats the heater cleaned out, noe to clean out the rest of the system so there isnt any sludge to re-block the heater. took off the top hose at the thermostat and fet the water in there, ran it for 10 minutes until clean water came out, reversed the flow for another 5 or 6 minutes until that was clear too, back to forward flow - clear water so thats ok, reconnected the hoses and re-filled with antifreeze, checked connections, fired up the engine and ran the car until the thermostat cut in and checked it was holding pressure, everything A OK. went round turned the heater on - boy that was coming out nice and hot. - Everything fixed, went indoors and was told off by the wife for hogging the cold kitchen tap for about an hour and a half when she was trying to cook tea - Ah well - life as usual.
So for any of you out there in volvo land thats the fix for a cold heater on a 440. if that doesnt work I suppose it will have to be a new heater matrix. but it doesnt cost anything (unless you buy the coolant flush).
Grendel

Hello! Im new to these forums and please forgive me if this kind of topic exists here. I've searched and even found few similars but decided to make my own just in case. And im no mechanic. I can gas the car up and drive it, thats pretty much it hehe. ^^

I drive a 1996 Volvo 440 1.8i and few weeks ago I started hearing this odd sound when accelerating. When I try to rev it up near 3000 when acclerating it gives me that sound again, I loose the gaspedal and after 1 or 2 seconds the sound goes away. I normally don't rev it up that high when driving, but as soon as I heard the sound first time I tried that.

When acclerating at 1200rpm - 2000rpm it's just fine. Sometimes it occurs near 2500rpm. It only happens when the car is fully stopped and im trying to drive through traffic lights (for example).

I can rev it all the way up to 6500~ even with the 2nd gear while driving and it won't give me that sound and misfire. It only happens when completely stopped and trying to accelerate.

I hope you can understand my poor english and could point out where I should look. Thanks!

Hello everyone,

I've noticed the rubbers inside my springs (back) are broken. Can someone tell me please how much they cost (avg.) and how big the problem is for driving with my car in this state?

Thankx!

Hi Guys,

My dad has a 93 (L reg) Volvo 460CD Auto,
and he got an alarm fitted, and since then the SRS light stays on.

anyways of getting it off, not like disconnect the wire, but reset it to normal.

thx

Hi everyone,

I need to change my shockabsorbers (volvo 440, 1.9 tdi 1995). My car has been modified (shorter springs) but my dealer says it will cost me about €560 to change all four shocks. They are gasfilled. My car is becoming at age, so i don't want to do any crazy expenses... Are there any more economic solutions, like cheaper shocks?

Thank you in advance!

Stain

HI All,

I have a strange problem on my 95 Volvo 460. The horn stopped working and I have no idea as to why. I went out and bought a replacement horn and swapped them over, Still no joy...

Time to get seriious I thought and went and dug out my trusty old multimeter

As per the Haynes manual, at the horn itself, the red wire is constantly at 12 volts as the swich is on the return leg right? When I place the meter on the red and black wire I get nothing, when someone else then presses the horn swith, it goes up to 12 Volts....

mm odd I thought as it appears to be working, so i then connected the red wire to the horn and touched the negative terminal against the chasis and voila the horn sounded !!

This is a bit strange for my understanding of electrics, but my only thought is the circuit is being closed when the horn switch is pressed, but the return isn't grounded properly...

So the next phase is to get to the horn switch under the airbag to check it...... my haynes manual is for a 92 model so no airbag is mentioned, can somebody let me know

a) their thoughts on the problem described above and
give me a quick description of how to get to the horn switch on a steering wheel with an airbag...


Many thanks in advance...

A.

I have recently bought a cheap 1995 460 2.0 SE as a runaround. When I bought the car, the battery charge light was dim at idle, and on strong when the revs increased. It has been the same for the last 2000 miles; I have had no problems with starting the car, although I notice that sometimes the elec windows are slow, and turning the heated rear screen on dims the headlights.

The previous owner fitted a new (or recon) alternator, and the battery light performs in exactly the opposite way to what I would expect...is this normal 460 behaviour when the alternator's playing up, or should I be looking for a bad earth? Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Russ

Hi There,

I have had my car since the end of November 2005, my previous owner kept my 440 in a mess and did not pay a lot of attention to the Paint of the car (eg. not polishing etc).

I got my car professionally cleaned outside not long after I got my car and he applied something (looked like polish but wasnt) which made it shine beautifully.

I polish my car now and it streaks and just looks very dull even after I have polished, i have used Paint rejuvenator and expensive Auto Glym / Turtle Wax Polish which doesnt do the drink.

I would like to now what the professional car cleaner man used to make my car look so beautiful or what can i use to make it look lovely and not full as obviously polish and paint rejuvenator doesnt work.

Thanks!