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hi all ive had a towbar put on my v50 estate and cant get the lights on i get indicators- stop lights but no night lights the company think its a dodgy relay unit and are sending me a replacement , the lights on the car are perfect , could it be anything else , len
Does anyone have experience with replacing the doors of a V50? I have some major damage to both doors and since the insurance doesn't cover my stupidity, I am looking for ways to cut expenses. I can get replacement doors and have a workshop available, but have never taken on a job like this. There is no damage to the structure of the car and the doors are airbag free. Should I try, or is this a job best left to experienced garage personnel?
Hi, New to the forum, ive looked ot see if this hasbeen covered, but cannot find a topic on it anywhere in the forum. Ive just had my v50 2.0d se sport serviced, it was the 5 year service. And there is a note on the serive report saying that the sump threads need replacing, and that this is dangerous and needs to be done.
However, since having my car serviced i have found out that the garage isnt that reputable and sometimes put things down on the report that arent an issue. They have quote me £410 for labour and parts to get it replaced. Is this how much a new sump costs?
I need a bit of advice regarding diagnostics 2006 v50
I have basic diagnostics for volvo and I can read dtc's from most systems including clearing a code from the abs module and turning the warning light off.
I have an airbag warning message and illuminated warning light, this is as a result of taking off various components (eg front airbag sensors on front cross rail, amongst others, I am therefore left with dtc's and the resulting warnings. My diagnostic (Chinese Clone) will read the fault codes but will not clear them, they are all intermittent, as the items were only disconnected and reconnected. I think the air bag module has gone u/s in some way as I know I can clear airbag codes normally, I have done so on the same module in a V50 Volvo.
My questions are,
1, If I buy a new module from the factory/local dealer will it come 'coded' i.e. set up for the configuration of pre-tensioners, airbags etc, or will it need programming. i.e. is it plug and play?
2, Can the original module DTC's be cleared with dealer level diagnostics? I have tried with other diagnostic tool but same result codes won't clear.
I hear this light whining or dull squealing sound during idle. I would think if I reved the engine the sound would increase and maybe go away if it was a belt. When I rev the engine the sound does not increase so I don't think it's a belt issue. I turned the AC on and the sound did not change or go away. My alternator is staying steady at 14.0 to 15.0 via my PassPort Radar detector. Been pretty cold here in the mid west...highs in the 20's....garage kept during the night but parked outside during the day.
Any suggestions...before I have my mechanic take a look..??
2007 AWD V50 Turbo 60K miles
Update noticed when we first start the car the noise is not there....I also noticed if I turn the steering wheel it does not affect the noise.....
upon start up it takes about 10 minutes before the whining noise starts.....then when I shut off the engine you can hear the whining noise slowly fade away.
I guessing it might be the water pump
Well the check engine light came on this morning.....took it to the Volvo deal....turns out it is a clogged oil engine trap...not sure what that is....but apparently it is under some type of specific extended warranty.....so I guess it's almost a recall part. The dealer has to order the part....and best of all....NO charge......
The clogged oil engine trap is what caused the whining sound and the check engine light...go figure.....
I have a 2005 Volvo V50 T5. I have been rear ended and my mechanic needs to fix my rear (the frame behind the bumper). Does anyone have the the accurate, body shop dimensions manual (specifically of the rear end of the car)?
I have a 2006 V50. Yesterday I replaced the fuse for the 12VDC power socket and when I reinstalled the fusebox the instrument panel and radio power went out. I also could not remove the key from the ignition or start the car.
Anyways, once I lowered the fusebox again the instruments and radio came back up, I was able to remove the key and the car started. I tinkered with it again today and was able to replicate the whole thing.
My first instinct was that I possibly triggered the theft deterrent, but it's more likely a main fuse or cable coming loose when I close up the fusebox. It's raining heavily outside so I had to come in. Has anyone encountered this before? What main fuse or cable do you think it could be? Maybe it's something else?
As long as I leave the fusebox hanging down everything work OK.
i have my car Volvo S40 2002 i'm having problem while locking it. Actually the problem is that when i lock the car using the button on the key, the car will stay locked for 10 seconds and then unlock it self including all doors.If i lock the car using the key in the door lock, then it will stay locked. i requires a locksmith that can solve this issue if anyone have some idea plzz share with me.
I just placed an order for a 60reg V50 at a Volvo dealer.
The dealer was trying to sell insurance package for about Â£1500. (gap insurance, tyre and key, dent and scuffs, fabric cover etc) I decided not to go for these items, but thinking about a 3 year service plan for Â£1000 (fixed) but excludes ware & t.
1 - I am wondering whether these insurance plans are "actually" useful or not? 2 - Is the service plan something that is useful or is it a norm to the service through main dealer?
This is the first time I am "owning" a volvo (because of mrs.), so any tips useful!
hi all ive just got a bought a drivers side front rubber door seal for my v50 2004 estate as mine is frayed with previous owner getting in and out are they easy to fit or is it better to go to a garage
My V50 T5 has jerky gear changes (auto) and feels as if it "over boosts" on pull away. When I reach 2000rpm it returns to normal. Also, when cruising on the highway and I floor it, it feels as if it goes and then doesn`t. It very slight but noticable. What could be the cause of this?
After a few days of heavy snow I attempted to start my 2008 v50 1.8 and it was completely dead and I had to use the key blade to gain access. I then jumped it off another car, when I did the alarm immediately started going off which I re set using the key fob. Since then the key fob will only unlock the front doors and the boot. The rear passenger door I can open from inside but the drivers side rear door I can't open at all. The only electric window that works is on the passenger door and the electric mirror adjust does not work either. Before this the car used to make one noise shortly after locking when I was walking away and it now making two.
All this since the snow and jump starting any ideas.
I need some help here diagnosing an eventually leaking boost control valve on my V50 1.6D. Recently it developed the following behaviour, aprox. 15min. after shutting off the engine, the brake peal becomes hard. Nevertheless, Iâ€™m sure the brake booster and respective (new) check valve are tight! I developed some investigation on the problem I found that It looks like the turbo boost control circuit has a leak and is stealing vacuum from the brake vacuum line! They are connected to the same plug in the vacuum pump. I reached this conclusion because I removed the turbo boost control vacuum tube and placed a rubber plug in its place. With the plug in place (and with no turbo L) the brake booster is normal again, I mean, it can retain the vacuum for more than 24h.
I got a mighty vac pump and applying it to the beginning of the turbo boost circuit, I found the following:
- With the engine shut down, applying vac up tp 500mmHg, the system starts to exhibit leak and it is not possible to go over 500mmHg because of (apparent) leak. - During this procedure I was able to confirm that the valve breather is sucking air! - I was able to confirm that vacuum reservoir, all vacuum tubes and the turbo actuator are tight and have no leaks. All itâ€™s missing is the valve!
Iâ€™m not sure about how this valve works in detail, but to my understanding, with the engine shut down, the valve should be closed and tight, right? If yes, the valve should be tight when vacuum in applied to the entrance, right? In fact itâ€™s not! If both previous sentences are correct, I shouldnâ€™t be able to feel air being sucked through the valve breather in this circumstances right? In fact itâ€™s sucking airâ€¦ Can someone explain me how to test this valve for vacuum tightness? I have the mighty vac pumpâ€¦
Doe it look to you that all this troubles are caused by a leaking valve? Nevertheless the brakes are powerful (enough) and the turbo boost control function seems to be Ok! All I feel strange is the fact that brake booster has no vacuum on it 15min after shutting of the engine and as I said, brake booster and its check valve are tight when I disconnect the booster control circuit and close itâ€™s vacuum passage.
hi all had to take the off side headlight out again as its misted up again ,ive cut a hole in the backing cover and had the hairdryer on it, now its against the radiator to completely clear the water any other tips on how to cure it its off a v50 2004
I have a 2005 V50 estate, both nearside doors remain locked and won't open, elec windows don't operate, and mirror won't move. I have seen that it may be a wiring problem on the A pillar, however does anyone know how I can get the doors open to have a look at the wiring. Help greatly appreciated.
hi all ,over the last couple of days ive noticed the head light glass is all misted up i took it out took the bulbs out and used a hairdryer on it then left it all night clear this morning so put it back with in ten mins completely misted up again i even drilled 2 5ml holes in the back casing to let the heat from the engine keep it clear help needed
I have Volvo's factory fitted 'high performance stereo' in my volvo V50. For the last year the stereo has been cutting out (both CD and Radio), the power goes off to the display, sound stops and then immediately it goes back on. However, today the stereo cut off but the sound never came back on. The power is still going to the unit and I can still tune the stereo but there is no sound. All I can hear is a slight hum. The Cd's also don't work and I can't eject any of the CD's anymore.
Has anyone else had this problem. I'm having some problems with the electrics in the car, power to the doors sometimes drops out as a result of corrosion in the door pillar connectors. I was also told that water ingress into the fuse box is common in the Volvo V50's. Could this be related to the stereo issue.
Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution?
Hello, since i have bought my car in 2011 i have had to replace the drivers headlight bulb 3 times and it has just blown again now, is this an underlying problem or is iit a problem in general with the volvo cars? Please any help would be amazing
I own a 2008 V50 2.0D. So far I have been very happy with the car, but lately I get the impression that something is wrong with the clutch: -when clutch pressed I can hear a rattling noise from the clutch bearing -the clutch does not seem to operate as smooth as it did previously -clutch engages very late, very high pedal position The car has only done 30.000km and I am not known for wearing clutches. Anyone with similar problem?
My v50 (2008 1.8 petrol) regularly stalls when slowing down. Coming towards junctions or roundabouts with the clutch in all the lights come on and the engine stops.
Most of the time it will restart if you lift the clutch. But if you are hardly moving you can't. Sometimes when stationary when you restart it does not fire properly and can't pull away as if not firing on all cylinders.
I've once had an error message about the engine not having full power or something.
According to my Volvo dealer its not required to use the Volvo recommended oil type 5W30. They used the 5W40 oil instead and claim its superior as it has a higher viscocity and will withstand higher temperatures. Also they claim the oil turning black after 8000 km / 5000 miles is no problem. This is due to the fact that only the oil from the carter is replaced and its the mixture of new oil and remainders of the old oil from the engine that will blacken the oil again after a few 100 km/miles. Is this true? Or am I better of replacing the 5W40 oil by the Volvo recommended 5W30 oil? So far I drove 128000 km / 80000 miles without engine troubles.
Hello friends. I have a 2006 v50 that has always served me well. Some time recently though I had the (apparently common) CD-stuck-in-the-changer problem. No big deal, I took it in and had it replaced under warranty. But after the repair the stereo has never been the same. There is now a noticeable hiss at even moderate volumes. It is present both on the radio and ipod aux (not sure actually about the CD player, but I think so). What's interesting is that it is not exactly constant. The hiss is not audible when there is no sound emitting. For example, during an interview on the radio the hiss can clearly be heard while the person is speaking, but it cuts out when they pause to take a breathe. The problem to me is really noticable and very distracting. It's sort of ruined listening to music for me and it bugs me just about every time I'm in the car. I even took it back to the dealership and sat with a technician in the car with the stereo on but he couldn't hear anything. Or so he said... Does anyone know what this could be or what I could possibly do to fix it? Where can I even go? I tried a car audio place in town but they said they don't deal with my kind of stereo. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hi there. Can people advise if the 52K service on V50D is a 'main' or 'interim' service as prescribed by the 'alternative to main dealer' brigade. I'm inclined to take my car to Kwik Fit or someone similar as I plan to keep it till it dies, so not too concerned about approved/main dealer stamps any more. Thing is, they only give 2 options - 'main' and 'interim' and as the main Volvo dealer who last serviced it at 40K hasn't detailed what they did (apart from the Â£230.00 price!) I don't know what needs doing this time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. It is an '08 plate btw.
When starting of if turning left or right and the straighten up i get a clanging noise from under the car it only happens once on the journey and always at the start, has anyone heard of a similar problem i have a 1.8 V50
New here and bought a 2006 V50 T5 AWD with the full Heico package.
It came with (not installed) a set of performance springs that lowers the car by about 1.5 inches. The previous owner told me he had it installed but removed it after it ruined his rear tires. He also commented that I should get a good chiropractor if I decide to install these Does anyone in the group have experience with this?
Can anyone gives me a heads up to what the problem may be with my Volvo v50. When I am driving it feels like the drivers side wheel has a mind of its own! turning right it feels like it wants to keep going straight for a moment. A heavy feeling in the steering pulling to the drivers side. I have had all wheel alignement done, brakes checked, tyre pressures checked there has been new rear bushes put on the front wishbones infact it has been in the garage 3 times and they can not give an answer. Beginning to not trust the car not feeling to safe, I am pulling my hair out!! Any help much appreciated.
I'm new to the Forum, having just bought a 2008 V50 1.8S as a 'work horseâ€™. The car is in fair condition for the price paid, but there are a few gremlins to sort â€“ this may be the first of a number of posts! I noticed yesterday, with the first frost of the year that the passenger side wing mirror isnâ€™t hearing up. All other functions on the door seem to work, including the mirror adjustment and I see from the handbook the mirror heater isnâ€™t on a separate fuse. Any ideas? Also, how do you get in to the mirror assembly to check if itâ€™s a lose/dirty connection.
Volvo V50 2008. Got this second hand and had been going grand for around 6 months, but one fine day, the SRS -airbag service urgent message appeared. It was due a service anyways so took it to Volvo dealership and they did the usual service stuff, but they couldn't tell me why the message was coming up from their diagnostics. One of the battery terminals was a bit loose which they tightened and the best they could come up with was something along the lines of - a poor or interupted power supply to the control board (for all the sensors in the car) was needing replaced at a cost of about â‚¬650 - I baulked at this as they wouldn't say that this was definitely the problem, and it would definitely be fixed..... I'm no engineer/car buff but it seemed a bit wishy washy to me.
Has anyone got any clue,as to what may be wrong, or how to fix it? it wrecks my head every time i gun the ignition. Other than this, ithas been plain sailing so far with the volvo (touch wood).
OK, starting to come to terms with the new Volvo V50 1.8S now, I'm generally very happy with it for the money, but there are a few 'teething' things that I guess are to be expected on a 62K mile car.
This question relates to what can best be described as a pinking noise from the driver side area in the engine bay. I'm quite sure it isn't actual 'pinking' because it doesn't sound as if it's coming from the engine itself, and isn't always linked to the engine being under load. The noise is intermittent and most prevalent when the engine is warm. It isn't there on tickover, only when driving.
I am happy to live with it if it isn't a sign of a more serious problem that needs attending to. I would like to take it back to the dealer (non franchise) I bought the car off as he had given a 3 month warranty, but would prefer to do so with a bit of knowedge so as not to be fobbed off.
Hi - I have a 2007 Volvo V50 D5 AUTO. 124,000 miles. Great family car.
3 months ago (in September 2011) I noticed a slight 'jolt / jerk' when the auto gearbox shifted from third to second when slowing down.
I called the Volvo dealership in Wakefield, UK. Their response: "It's a sealed unit so there isn't anything we can do. We could take it to pieces but we might not find anything and that could cost thousands".
The 'jolt' from third to second got slightly worse during the past 3 months. Then 3 days ago, I had a warning message, "transmission service urgent".
After stopping, the warning went away. Today, the garage checked the electronic message code and said it was a 'Slip Codeâ€™ (they didn't tell me the precise number).
From what I have read, the linings inside the gearbox might have been contaminated with engine coolant.
The garage wants to charge Â£4000 for a new gearbox or Â£2,000 for a rebuild.
My questions: 1. What options do I have other than buying a new gearbox or getting it rebuilt? 2. What might be causing the jolting? 3. Why can't the garage simply flush the glycol coolant out with new oil? 4. What is the 'market price' cost for 'flushing' the transmission fluid? I don't want to pay Â£500 for some oil. 5. What is the worst thing that will happen if I keep driving the car for another 10 - 20,000 miles? 6. What else might be affected if I keep driving the car?
I have a 2006 V50 T5 AWD with the Heico package (body kit, stainless exhaust, 18" mags, suspension, etc,,). Unfortunately I have damaged the front spoiler and now find that Heico has no distributors in North America. I have contacted Heico in Europe and can order a new spoiler but the shipping costs r crazy.
Anyone know of an aftermarket company in Canada or the US that makes front spoilers for a V50?
Hi all i am new to the world of volvo and have a problem i am hoping you van help with,
I have a used V50 2.0D Euro 4 which is still in warranty and has a intermittent loss of power fault, perhaps every 200 miles.
The symptoms are:
1) Driving along normally - say 60ish in 5th gear,
2) You accelerate, and as you are accelerating suddenly the engine power just disappears - but no warning lights, messages etc.
3) Back off the revs, engine power comes back so you can maintain speed, however if you start to accelerate again and demand more power, again the engine power will disappear
4) This will perhaps happen 5 - 10x if you keep repeating the above sequence but then the car returns to normal and all the power you can want (without needing to stop the engine). Then it won't happen for another week or so.
I have taken it to the garage and keep getting messed around they have ordered some type of modual but they say it is to do with the cooling system?? as far as i can think this would not cause the problem i am having, they have regenerated the dpf also but still no joy.
My 2004 V50 2.4i has just developed a problem with the drivers side window, and I wondered if anyone has had the same problem. When raising the window, it closes all the way to the top and as soon as it gets there, it automatically opens again. If I hold the switch until it is fully closed it remains closed. I have taken the switch panel out, and checked the contacts etc., and everything looks good, but problem persists. Has anyone had a similar problem or got any suggestions to rectify this?
Hello I am in the process of replacing my rear brake pad on my 2005 V50 2.4i FWD. I loosened the 2 7mm allen bolts completly but they are not backing out of the dust boots so I am unable to remove the bracket. On all my other volvo's they just simply umscrewed. Do I need to tap them back out of the boots. Thanks for your help. Also any idea where the fuel filter is located? Thanks
Ok, this one is crazy: was driving today and my dome light suddenly came on. Then I noticed a bunch of lights in the dash with the Traction Control Problem message in the display. Then immediately followed by the SRS AIRBAG SERVICE URGENT. Then my gas gauge drops to 0. Then my wipers are stuck on. Then my signal lights stop working. Then my key fob doesn't let me lock or unlock the car. Then my climate control temperature isn't working properly. Then my hatch doesn't open.
As much as I love this car, it's getting the best of me time wise for repairs and $$$ as well. Blah...
I am searching around on the forums, but would appreciate some help if anyone has seen this before.
I have a problem with a loud clanking noise coming from under the car at low speed on bumpy roads. It goes away at higher speeds and sounds like a loose exhaust heat shield clattering on the exhuast, but so far I cant see anything loose or rattly.
My 2 year old son inadvertently knocked my rearview mirror from its mount and I'm finding difficult to put back. Its mounted directly on to the windscreen, where there is a metal Hexagonal attachment with a hole on the top which is for a clip to go into from the mirror. The mirror obviously has a matching Hex recess. I'm wondering is there a special tool that Volvo only has or is there a special knack??