Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

The B21, and related red block motors, were named using the following convention: B##X or B##VX. Where B stands for "bensin" (gasoline), ## stands for the displacement in deciliters, and X is an appropriate suffix. On the later low-friction motors, V denotes SOHC configuration (0) or DOHC configuration (4, for 4 valves per cylinder).

i.e. B230 (SOHC, 2.3 Liters), B234 (2.3 Liters, DOHC * 4 valves per cylinder * 4 cylinders = 16 valves)

The following suffixes were commonly used by Volvo:

A - single constant-pressure type carburetor (such as the Pierburg 175 CDUS), typically with manual choke
B - high compression, with twin carburetor's, either twin zenith-strombergs or twin SU's.
E - high compression, no catalyst, fuel injected (usually K-Jetronic, LH2.2 Jetronic, or Motronic on the turbo motors)
F - low compression (9.8:1 on B230F, 9.5:1 on B280F, 10.0:1 on B234F and 10.7:1 on B6304F), USA/Europe version (F for Federal) with catalytic converter. Europe/APAC version, fuel injected (usually LH Jetronic or Bendix Regina)
K - single jet type carburetor (such as the Solex-Cisac carbs), typically with automatic choke
G - LH2.4 Jetronic but without cat. converter, CO adjustment on the AMM (similar to LH2.2 Jetronic). Some models without O2 sensor, others with O2 sensor which requires regular replacement at intervals due to lead fouling. For markets which unleaded fuel was rare in the early 90's, eg. Eastern Europe
FB - low compression version of B230F (9.3:1) with the "531" cylinder head and VX3 camshaft, power output 11kW and 2Nm more than B230F. LH2.4 Jetronic fuel injection, for European markets.
FD - essentially a B230F fitted with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Pulse air system for cleaner emissions
T - turbocharged, after E or F suffix (example: B21ET, B230FT)
FK - low pressure turbo, 1995 onward, not supplied in North America. Identical to the B230FT engine of that time but lowered boost level (4 PSI)
FTX - Higher power output B230FT (approx 190 hp)

After a few months of research and missed opportunities I finally picked up my first Volvo. It's a $300, 273,xxx mile, 92 740 turbo wagon. The body and interior are in fantastic shape, I wish I could say the same for the engine. It leaks oil everywhere. I have cleaned all the crud off of the motor and other bits so I can see where the problems are and what I have to deal with.
It seems the previous owner never cleaned the pcv system because the fire trap was a mess, along with the throttle body and damn near every other part. My next goal is to replace/clean the thing under the fire trap setup. Because oil is still coming out of the filler cap and every where else except the dipstick.

ok ok...to the questions.

Today, I took the tube from the turbo that connects to the mass air sensor and cleaned the sensor located in that tube and also noticed that the turbo had a ton of build up so i gave it a quick spray with the throttle body cleaner. There were some cracks and splitting around the sensor so I applied some duct tape(temp fix). Also, I was feeling around underneath the turbo for oil leaks and build up. I reassembled the tube and took it for a spin...The problem: after a little boost is built up and I let off of the gas it lets out a strange sound comparable to a whooshing diverter valve. ?!?!?!
It never made this sound before.

next question has to do with the engine making a knocking sound...piston slap? can this go away? how bad is it?

And finally, where does the vacuum hose go that is attached to the coolant lines that feed into the heater core. It has some kind of vacuum related thing that is missing it's hose.

thanks and any extra answers or suggestions would be much appreciated.

christian

I am new to the forum and Volvo ownership.

We bought a 1990 Volvo 740 G for our son and we now need several new parts. The cars is great and really lived up to its reputation for safety in our son's resent incident. So instead of just scarping the car we would like to repair it. We live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, if that helps in locating used parts or cars.

In searching around used parts from suppliers priced individually are pricey, so I am looking at buying a used car for parts. Can someone tell me which model years are compatible for these parts for our 1990 model?

I need:

Radiator,
condenser,
radiator fan assembly,
radiator support,
Right headlight assembly,
Left Headlight assembly,
Hood,
Grill,

Can someone tell me which model years are compatible for these parts for our 1990 model?
Any information or guidance would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Michael

I have a 1990 740 turbo wagon in great shape. However, I have a puzzling problem. Occasionally it starts fine, but most often I have to pull the air intake and give it a squirt of ether, then it fires immediately and runs fine until I shut it off. I have replaced both fuel pumps, (including sending unit) with OEM parts, car has new head, distributor, alternator, fuel pressure regulator, and other parts. Doesn't seem to matter how long it sits, although first thing in the morning is the best chance for a key start, but not always. I have several mechanics scratching their heads over this one. Has anyone experienced this?

hi there just joined forum so hello everybody and the question I am posting is
what is the max towing weight for a volvo 740 estate with manu gearbox

I'm in the process of replacing a frayed parking brake cable on a 1990 760 turbo sedan. I've had a lot of trouble locating the proper replacement. Autozone comes up with a matching product, but it doesn't look the same and it isn't even the same length. Most of the pictures I've seen online do not look like the cable I took out. I'm hesitant ordering online, because no one seems to have a picture of sufficient quality to discern whether the part is correct.

PS: the cable frayed right near the pull-lever, I need at least the driver side section of the 'y-cable'

thanks!

[attachment=7431:Volvo.jpg]I have an 89 760 Wagon. I am removing all of the trim etc. in preparation for painting. I am down to one area of trim I can't seem to remove. It is the lower chrome trim on the side doors. Any advice would be appreciated.

There is a button on the dashboard, to the left of the driver's wheel, underneath an icon that looks like a clock with no tick marks. The button is like a see saw toggle: you can depress the top part (looks sort of like this: /\) or you can depress the bottom part ( looks like this: \/ ). I pressed the top part, now I get a constant dinging, I pressed the bottom part, still getting a constant dinging.

What does this button do? How can I make it stop dinging?

Thank you for your help. I just bought this car on Sunday.

Ann

The Owners Manual for 1990 740 GL says you need to use tools to raise the passenger seat to one of two height settings. However, it doesn't say how to do this. Can someone help me?

[size="3"][/size]Okay, new to this forum. Thought joining this forum would really help diagnose some problems I'm having with my 1989 Volvo 740 GL (Auto & non-turbo).

My story starts here.. The car was given to me when I received my license from my father. The car was in great shape. interior/exterior, ran beautiful. I received the 740 in 2004. through the years, keeping it maintained as well as I could, which i'd never really ever got into the mechanic field until I started to understand, fixing and maintaining the car myself. Which also was a heck of a lot cheaper than taking it to the dealership. Plus, most of the shops here in my town Do Not know a dang thing about Volvo's. So, I took it upon myself to learn the mechanics specifically for Volvo. I've now owned my 740 for 6 1/2 years and fell in love.

Now to my question of concern, I recently have been doing my best to keep the car up to par. Swapped the air filter box out with a cold air intake setup, new exhaust & manifold, all new bushings, new rodors/brakes, fuel filter, tail lights, heater core, plugs/wires.. normal tune up things. I noticed the air intake setup had oil all in it, so i cleaned it thoroughly, took off the throttle body components, cleaned all of that because the car seemed to be getting a little sluggish. My only guess was because there was oil in the air flow. Putting it all back together, the car a few days or a week later, it started to run rough. Then at some point, when accelerating, the rpms would drop just a hair and then go right back up. The feeling is hard to describe, but I'll try my best to be as detailed about it as possible, but when I'm accelerating at any speed, it feels like the car itself is attached to a bungee cord or something dragging behind it, almost feels like i have a boat attached to a hitch of the car. In three words I can also describe it "Loss of Power". Before, when I first owned the 740, it's like the car had so much energy and excitement and now it's just chugging along.

I've read many many forums from this site and others on this subject and have checked all the possibilities that could be causing this. Fuel pump relay is good, fuel pump sounds good, battery cable is tight, MAF clean/good, no exhaust leaks, checked idle control sensor which is good, motor mounts are good, knock sensors good, fuel filter is new, cleaned distributor cap, checked spark plugs & wires all gaped & good.

I have yet to replace the o rings in the fuel injectors & clean the PVC nipple and replace intake manifold gasket & throttle body gasket. I'm stumped and it's been frustrating since i'm not so mechanically inclined, but have been putting in the time, effort and ear to fix what's broke.

Although tonight when me and my brother we're looking at everything, cleaning out the MAF, idle control valve, checking the relay again, we noticed some sketchy hose coming from the fire wall was connected to nothing. The same hose with color and design was running from the Charcoal Canister to the throttle body and a hose coming from off the top of the throttle body was disconnected. When in park idling, there was suction from that hose

Here are some pics I took of what's going on here.

[attachment=7629:350374808965_0_02.jpg]
There is this open hose with suction. Is this right? When we blocked the hose
of suction, it started to almost die, idle dropped.

[attachment=7630:350374819205_0_02.jpg]
This is some kind of contraption, not sure what it's called, but the hose from the charcoal
canister runs to it.


[attachment=7631:350374829061_0_02.jpg]
This is the hose from the fire wall that is just there. Almost looks like it
should be attached to the fitting in the picture below.


[attachment=7632:350374840325_0_02.jpg]
Here is the fitting that nothing was connected to it. It's only my small
bit of knowledge that the hose in the picture above is supposed to attach to it..


I'm open for any suggestions or answers. I've been fooling with this for a month now, since
the roughness has been at it's worst ever. This is my first post and looking forward to hearing
anyones advice or knowledge on what is wrong and WTF is going on with these hoses???

I think it's the starter. It had given no indication to any problems, till it decided it didn't want to start. Turning the keys only gave indicator lights and normal beeping. No clicks, no trying to turn over, nothing. We had the AAA guy come, and what he did was tap the starter and have us try turning the key while he was doing that, and it started. When we got home, we tried and it started there just fine, but we figure it will happen again. Is it the starter (AAA guy said it was, but...) Should replacing the starter fix that? or would/could it be something else?

Hello all, I'm brand new to this forum and to volvo ownership. But recently I was offered a 1992 volvo 740 station wagon with over 225000 miles on it, car runs great! The only problem I had was a dead battery, so after replacing it the anti-theft radio was activated. Does anyone know how I can get the code to clear it? Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.

It's definately caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.

Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.

Any ideas or tips most welcome. I rebuild engines and have quite a bit of auto electrical experience, so please don't be shy in suggesting technical answers.

Thanks,
Steve

I have a 92 volvo 740 turbo wagon with a 5 speed. I have a whine that comes from the center of the car when moving at low speeds(at high speeds it is probably still there but too high pitched to hear) and is also unrelated to engine idle speed. The car does not have to be in gear in order to hear this. I'm having trouble diagnosing the problem because it seems there are a few different possible causes. My first impression is the center drive shaft bearing, but I have also been told it could be the synchronizer(s) in the gear box. I plan on checking the fluid level in the gear box once I get under the car. Otherwise I'm not sure what to do, more specifically, how to go about realizing what the problem actually is. Thanks for your help.

I need to open my trunk from the inside of my car because the locking arm is disconnected from the lock latch. I cannot figure out how to access my trunk from the inside of my car. It seems that there is only a tiny hole behind the back seat arm rest that isn't big enough for me to crawl into my trunk. How can I enter my trunk to manually release the latch?

How do I know if I have replacable inserts or if I have to replace the whole assembly as I did in my '76 242?

My 1987 740 turbo wagon suddenly started to fail when I was driving back home, I checked spark plugs and nº 1 cylinder is not working, I changed spark plug without change, it seems it is not a spark trouble, how can I check injector? may be head gasket? when I accelerate in 3 cylinders a metallic clicking noise will start, not when idling, any suggestions? rgds,

I just bought a 1989 Volvo 740 GL with 256,116 miles on it.
It had oil ALL OVER the motor and chassis. I cleaned it off and almost immediately oil started dripping from the filler cap. I thought this was the main source of the "leak" anyways. I bought a new gasket that is in the mail because, nobody local had them or would order them..

Next I'm trying to find a repair manual for this vehicle and failing..
This is all i can find so far:
Ebay Repair Manual
If anyone knows an alternative to this I would greatly appreciate it.
I need to repair the non-opperational temperature gauge and I know it could be a sensor or just a loose/broken wire/gauge.

The car has some NASTY oil in it and I plan on doing an oil change this weekend. I was just wondering if there is any specific brand or viscosity I should invest in (Southwest FL mind you it doesn't get that cold)?



I read this on another post and I don't have a whole lot of experience with mechanics and I don't have the manual. What I want to know is, will cleaning the flame trap be in the repair manual and if not how do I do this?

Anyways Thank you very much!
I can't wait to get this started!

Hello,

I just bought this car, and everything seemed to be PERFECT! It is an 89 740 Turbo with only 112K miles. It runs like a dream....except the damn thing takes forever to start!

Once the engine is warmed up, if you turn off the car, and try to restart it, it cranks right up. Starting 'cold' (though it is not cold at all during the summer in Tennessee!) and I have to try 3 or 4 times. You can hear it trying to start after a number of tries, and then I can give it gas, and it succeeds. Any idea why this happening? Some things I could check?

I am a complete car novice. This is my second 740. Being a female, not knowing much about what a good used car (especially with the age of this one) I am fearing that I have been taken advantage of! I had a friend look at the car, who is a quite good mechanic, he said it looked great...still worried...

Thanks for your time, and advice.

I have a 1988 740T and just had the transmission replaced with a used 5 speed for second time after hitting a deer. I had driven only about 1,000 miles and the noise+vibration near the gear stick indicated that something was seriously wrong.

A friend said it's prob the crankshaft that needs to be replaced-the vibration continues even when I disengage the gear stick and the car starts to slow down. One mechanic on line said that I may not have to replace the crankshaft and that it might be something smaller. A friend gave me the # of a Volvo mechanic in the Sunset, San Francisco but no one answered today. There is only 118,000 miles and the engine perfectly, and I know the previous two owners. I welcome any advice on this problem. Thanks

I was recently given a '89 740 turbo wagon and I also inherited its 'hot start' problem. If the car sits in the sun with 80+ degree ambient temperature, it will not start. Nor will it start after it has been driven for any length of time without sitting for an hour in a cool place. However, the most unusual piece of this puzzle is that it will start with a jump start from another vehicle, no matter what the temperature. I know that my radiator/inter-cooler cooling fan has seized and needs to be replaced and my instrument cluster temperature gauge not longer registers, I believe because it needs its engine temperature switch replaced. Otherwise the car runs and starts perfectly. The battery is new as is the radio suppression relay, main fuel pump relay and both the in the tank and booster fuel pumps. I am currently at a loss. Thanks!

This just happened - my 1990 740 GLE Turbo sedan's radiator fan kept running, even without key in the ignition. It kept going and going until the battery is completely drained. After that, I tried using the jumper cable to jump start the car. As soon as I connect the cables to another car's battery, my car's fan immediately started running again. There's definitely something wrong with the 740 - something is telling the car that the engine is too warm, even though it's only 70 degrees in the afternoon. Any idea?

http://media.photobucket.com/image/b234f/P...el/P7100019.jpg

In example picture (not mine) visible just below the end of the exhaust manifold theres a brass nipple, what is supposed to be attached here? I had oil all down the underside of my car so I went looking for a leak, I have a small crack in the PCV separator box, but didn't look like it was leaking enough to make this mess! The engine had been smoking the whole way home, so I'm lookin there thinking its the rear seal drippin on it, and heres this random lonely hose nipple. I'm a fairly new tinkerer so I spent four hours going page by page in my manual looking for a picture so I could see what direction the hose was heading, not a single picture. So I've spent the last two hours on google image search... and all the pictures I can find don't have anything connected... mine is half shiney and dirty so it LOOKS like somethings supposed to be connected. HELP! (I know, way too much story, but it's 2:30am here in portland oregon)

Hello all, I've been extensively refurbishing/repairing a 1990 volvo 760 turbo. I recently finished up (hopefully) the engine work and have been trying to get the car to start. Prior to my work, the car started without issue. Below is a list of the repairs I've performed.

• new tranny pan gasket/filter
• new oil pan gasket * oil filter
• new spark plugs
• new spark plug wires
• new valve cover gasket
• removed/cleaned/replaced nearly all rubber hoses
• cleaned MAF
• added water/ jolted and charged battery
• new muffler

The diagnostic computer is not listing any codes under ignition or fuel systems.
The engine will sometimes turn over for maybe 10 seconds or so, but it is very rough and has little or no response to throttle input.

There's probably a lot of other details I've left out, but I was hoping to get some advice on where to start looking first. I've installed a lot of new parts w/o knowing 100% working ...so I'm not sure how to start eliminating possible culprits.

I suspect the battery is not in the best condition, and my charger only charges it up to about 12.6 volts. I've started the car with an attached booster battery, but that didn't really change how the engine behaved. Also, previous owners/mechanics were extremely negligent/unskilled - the main engine wire harness was sloppily tapped into for alarm and or audio purposes and I've been using an alligator clip to connect a previously tapped wire (green/blue) I think. I can post pictures and add more information as necessary.

Please help! any guidance is much appreciated. Thanks!

Alright, I'm buying a new car soon, and its going to be a Volvo. So, I found a 740 turbo wagon. Nothing really wrong with it, haven't yet driven it, but it looks awesome, and...I need room for my friends and music equipment. I would like to ask you guys if this is a reliable car, and also when something goes, how much do these things normally take to fix up.

Thanks,
Nick

Hello,

On a recent trip my Volvo started making a whining noise when accelerating. I've read other posts that describe this same issue but none have confirmed what it is. It sounds like a police siren going high and low and is most noticeable at around 20-30mph and is almost inaudible at higher speeds. My mechanic and others that have posted about a similar noise are blaming the turbocharger which makes sense. If it is the turbo, is it fixable or will it need to be replaced? Can a 4-cylinder survive without turbo if it goes? Hope someone has an answer.

Thanks

I just purchased an 88 760 turbo. My power seats just went out and out an unusably angle (i was sleeping in them before). So i read the manual and found that you need an Allen Key (wrench) to turn. So i cant find it in my trunk or anywhere in my car so i purchase a set and start to turn the seat back. I notice its a special shaped hex wrench and not just a regular one, but it seemed to have started to turn it on one side. I go o\to turn the other and the wrench WILL NOT fit (tried many hours). So i now i have a seat stuck in a terrible position. Anyone know where to find an "Allen Key" that they request in the manual?

I though I would give you a run down on a problem I have had with this car since I bought it last year. It would start and run just fine. However, the next time I tried to start it, the engine turns over but would not start. I would leave it alone for 15 minutes or until the next day and it would start. It never went dead on me once I got it to start.

I tuned up the car (replaced spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor). Runs fine, but again it left me in the lurch when I tried to start it up after driving it to work.

So, I have spark. I have fuel pressure at the rail. What else could cause the problem? The only thing I could think of was the injectors weren't firing. What can cause that? Maybe the "brain-box"? I didn't have another one to swap out. Maybe it was a connection at one of the sensors. I pulled every one off and put it back on, then attempted to start it up. I finally found the problem to be the relay-radio interference block thingy on the fender. The plastic had deteriorated and the pins were not seating up into the relay well. I pushed the wires up into the connector and voila! It starts. I went to the electrical prints and I can see that the relay has to be energized in order to fire the injectors.

I just recently bought a 1992 volvo 740 and the a/c does not work. When I turn the nob for the ac fan control to 2 I can here the compressor kick in but no air. When I turn it all the way up to five a little air comes out of the defrost vents and the floor vents no matter what setting the fan control is. It may be low on freon but I was wondering would low freon make the fan not come on when the fan control nob was turned? Any suggestions would be great I just need to know somewhere to start.

Since this is my first post, let me say that I did do a search, but most other peoples problems were solved by something I've found to not be a solution to my problem. Anyway....

I've got an '89 760 (4 cyl turbo) with 235k that suddenly died. About 3 weeks ago I pressure washed the engine to try and find an oil leak. Afterwards, the car started and ran fine for a couple hours. I got home, shut it off, and went to move it 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. I've found there to be no spark at any of the plugs, or from the coil, and I determined this with my timing light.

I have a friend with an identical car, and we started swapping parts. We swapped the ignition module, the distributor, the coil, and the two relays on the drivers side shock tower which I seem to remember someone telling me to check if I ever have a problem but don't actually remember what they control. In each case, his car still ran, and mine wouldn't.

Having eliminated those items, I'm now lost. With the key in the "on" position I have checked for power at the positive side of the coil, and at the plug for the pick-up coil in the distributor. I have power in both places. I also used a test light to check for a signal at each of the injectors, which I have. I have checked all the fuses, I can hear the fuel pump coming on while sitting in the car, and I can hear the system pressurizing if I'm under the hood while someone else cranks it.

The only other thing I can think of is a crank position sensor, but I've been all over the car from the top and the bottom and can't for the life of me figure out where it is.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Hello All,

Been a while since I last posted.

I am just servicing my old girl 740GL, Auto, 2 Litre Injection, Saloon, she as just exceeded 200,000 miles. I have always used Fuchs 10/W40 Semi Synthetic, she only uses about half a Litre between servicing to top up with(every 6000 miles).

My Question is should I use a thicker oil due to the mileage or carry on with 10/W40 Semi Synthetic?

Any advice welcome.

Thanks
John...

[attachment=7767:43992312...9684de_o.gif]"TEST ENDED!"

Hello,
I have a 1989 740GL(non turbo).
The speedo needle intermittantly fluctuates.

Any ideas on possible cause/repair.
Also any ideas on headlight alignment or replacement as the headlights are quite dim.

Kind Regards.
George

Hi guys,

Glad to have found this forum. I checked the onboard error codes via http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=2&t=24944 and found no errors except ones I expected.

My 1992 740 non turbo starts hard, bogs, sputters, front-fires (backfires out the air intake tube), and will stall under full throttle (in park). If I baby it it will rev up OK. If I squirt some gasoline in the intake tube while revving it, full throttle doesn't bog it down.

It started hard before this, but ran fine once warm. Recently started bogging down under full throttle. Bad enough now that I don't feel comfortable driving it.

Replaced plugs and wires (looked serviceable, but I bought it used, so who knows), no joy. Have not replaced distributor and rotor (looks serviceable, but due for a change).

Disconnecting the air temp sensor didn't change anything (but it did register 1-2-2 on the fuel self diagnostic, which is good to know). It also threw 3-1-1 on the fuel diagnostic, but my speedometer is intermittent (I use my GPS for a speedo). Ignition diagnostics threw 1-1-1.

Was told by a mechanic to disconnect the MAF and see if it changed anything. I cannot locate the MAF sensor! The air temp (charge?) sensor is readily visible (first sensor after the air box), but there are no other sensors in the tube up to the manifold, and I see nothing that resembles pictures of the MAF from Rockauto.

Halp!

TIA,

Dave

91 740 non turbo automatic.
she idles fine in the morning but after she warms up she idles low around 500rpms some times a little lower.
Never dies while driving but if i have to stop at the mail box then restart it i run into issues.
It will restart but will die instantly unless i hold the throttle down then i have to two foot it into gear and start driving before it will idle on its own. I tried to seafoam the motor a few weeks ago too and noticed that the vac is really low as well. I have the same issue in the after noon when its really hot out the engine is cold but still wont idle.
not sure where to start looking at this since this is my first volvo would appreciate some tips.

I just purchased a 1986 Volvo GLE 740, It currently has no over drive, or reverse lights. I checked / changed the fuse and nothing, I get no lights on the dash for the O/D on or off light. I do get a light-bulb failure when I put it into reverse, but still no over drive. What else can I check? We tried jumping the switch over and it didn't work, The linkages are fine because it goes through all 3-gears just no over drive, which makes going on 45+mph roads difficult.

What can I check to gt it to work?

So it seems that my overdrive on my 740 non-turbo wagon is stuck on all the time now. So basically 3rd gear is top at the moment which doesn't suit my car very well on the highway. I've done a little research and it seems the cheapest and easiest fix is to order an IPD overdrive bypass kit which I guess bypasses the electronics that fail (solenoid/relay). I was also told though that it could be that I have a fuse blown or something. I looked at the fuse box but I don't really know how to tell if a fuse is blown.

any response or advice would be helpful,

Sean

hey guys my 740 gl engine light comes on while driving and it acts like I'm losing power or flooding. I'll pull over cut it off for about 10 secs then cut it back on ...motor idles real rough...tries to cut off when you give it gas like it's flooded. I'll keep revving it up until it clears up then it;s ok for a while but the engine light stays on. Just put a fuel pressure regulator on but doesn't seem to help. this thing is nickle and diming me to death PLEASE HELP !!!!

I've serviced and repaired alot of vehicles in my life, every thing from a 57 Chevy 283 engine to pertneer(almost) all the muscle cars of the 60s & 70s having Gm, Mopar & Ford engines everything from 327, 351 cleveland, 383, 389, 396, 400, 440 & 454 engines! Now I was pretty young and just out of the Marine Corps, driving those oldies but goodies! I started driving the family type vehicles and trucks in 1978 around 27 years old. Then age of 59, I bought me this 1990 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon, Cause over the years, I have been told, they go forever, anyway, atleast that is what the seller of this particular vehicle said!, It is 100% rust free and 135,000 miles and I'm supposed to be the 3rd owner, I know the lady who was the original purchaser in 1990 did take very good care of the routine maintenace, service and replacements when needed, however, the Mickey Mouse Crap of the second owner, must have just put gas in it to drive only! Lieing scum bag says, just had her tuned up, oil change and filters replaced, yeah right, about 15 years ago! Well fellows, but atleast she made it 50 miles to my home, with out any problem other than "Rough Idling & Stalling, but, I rolled up me sleeves and jumped into getting her back in to good running order, especially after a Volvo dealership says bring her to me, and we will get her up and going down to the last screw, "I said yeah right. Got any vaseline with your estimate?" I paid $1600 for her, and these morons wanted an estimate of $1500.00 Parts and Labor! Well, I spent only $600.00 and did all the labor myself, even with a bad heart! Complete tuneup, wires, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs Bosch -28 gap, all filters, removed & disassembled the Turbo and all hoses and cleaned them like new, removed and cleaned the crank ventillation's PVC housing, nipple & hoses, Cleaned the Air-mass sensor, and filter housing and hoses, replaced thermostat, back flushed the engine block and radiator, replaced antifreeze & new clamps, Oil filter & Oil change, removed and cleaned the intercooler and all hoses, removed and cleaned throttle & butterfly assembly, replaced the coolant temperature sending unit (sensor), replaced wiring sockets and Plugins 4, and finally removed tamper proof nut from throttle idle adjustment, and readjusted idling to the mark 900 RPMs ( calls for 800-1000 RPMs) Runs like a new one, by the way went right through State Inspection No Problems!, Extra replaced all headlight, turn signals,back up & Fog litght bulbs! All the same brand too! Secret to keepem Runin, Get to know the car other than just driving it, listen to her, she makes sounds that you will eventually learn by before it is costly to repair, You can not be afraid of geting grease and dirt black as pitch under your nails, unless you want to pay a Volvo Dealership $120 dollars an hour labor fees plus parts! By the way, Know her smells, from clean oil to burnt oil and smells from her rubber to her coolant! All these signs will give you a hint to let you know if she is due for replacement of parts, or antifreeze flush to transmission filter and flush and fluid replacement., And down to her smell of brake fluid, Especially if there are any leaks you will learn the smell or see the leak! Each has it's own distinct odor you grow to recognised! Murphy's Law, what will and can go wrong, "WILL", So do routine preventive maintenance, "Changhe oil & Filter every 3000 miles including the air filter and clean the air filter housing unit each time, replace fuel filter & fuel regulator every 6 months! Why?,"ETHANOL" the 10% hillbilly sweet corn licquor the Feds have them put in every gas pump nationwide! Ethanol has a concentrate of "sugar," that will gum up& bind the injector system, throtle, valves, fuel regulator and fuel filter! "Also your miles to the gallon of gas is limited (example: highway 28 miles to the gal without ethanol, but, with ethanol 22)! Ethanol also reduces the engine's output and performance for engines combustion and horse power is limited! This is a well known and prooven fact, but, The gasoline companys want you to believe other wise, and the Feds know that! Did you know that, Ethanol is RESTRICTED from any aircraft fuel?, Yep, Why?, "Lessens the percentage of OCTANE! Aircraft must have 100% octane for it's power! In the old days, When we cruise for girls and or put our car titles on the line as a bet with other cruisers, I would go to the airport and fill up with their fuel to race! Now pertaining to Ethanol, "Do not hesitate to use an additive in the fuel as a detergent and additive cleaner for the fuel injection too!" I asked Volvo and they reccomend a good detergent and cleaner! besides I've used additives and cleaners for over 40+ years and helps take care of the equipment and engine! a little advice, don't switch back and forth like a ping pong ball on different brands of oil and filters, 2 good oils with great reputations and has been around for a coon's age (years) Valvoline & Pennzoil ( filters are: Pennzoil, Wix, Purolator, & Motorcraft. Well That's about it for now, like I said, got to git yur hands dirty, unless you got a rich pappy and mommy to foot the bill!

Greetings,

I just purchased a 1991 740 from the original owner (122k miles). It's in fantastic condition, except for a few minor things. The biggest problem is the speedometer. Sometimes it works fine, other times it shows you are going 70mph when only going 25. The previous owner thought it was probably a cable problem. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Karl.

So I have a 88 740 GLE non turbo. with the basic gauge cluster. I found a wrecked 760 in the junkyard so i snagged the voltmeter and installed it in my gauge cluster. Cool it works fine. Now the problem is that at night the lights dont work in the gauge cluster and the heater control panel. Gauges work fine but no lights at night. All the fuses are good and nothing blown. Anybody have any ideas?

Hello Friends,

I'm reluctant to post here because the last 2 or 3 problems I've had didn't get any responses, and we're mostly my fault, hooray for not knowing anything about cars!

My problem this time is simple, whenever the car is stopped (at a stop sign or stop light let's say) it won't idle. It spikes up to 3k rpm and then dies. In order for me to drive the car I have to constantly tap the gas pedal and hold the break down so the car won't jump.

I had a mechanic look at it, and he checked all the little vacuum lines and then unplugged the mass air flow sensor and the car stopped reving and dieing so he told us this was the problem. We purchased a reman mass air flow sensor from O'reillys and this did not fix the problem.

Any opinions, or other senors/adjustments I could check/make?

Thanks,

James

I have a 1991 740 wagon. 135k. The passenger side mirror, which is adjusted mechanically, fell off. What I mean is the glass part came off. My wife handed it to me, I'm not sure why it didn't break. LOL Anyway, I have the glass and there is a grey backing of some sort still in the housing that moves via the lever inside. The backing says "objects in mirror are closer than they appear" in yellow. How do I reattach the glass? Was it glued on? I can't tell. If glue, what should I use to reattach it? THANKS

Hi,
I have a 1994 740. The reverse lights do not come on. Creates embarrassing situations during the night when I want to reverse from parking lots. I looked at the connectors going to the bulb assemblies. Everything looks okay. Please help.

Thank you.

Nanda.

My wife's 1990 740GL (Regina/B230F, automatic transmission) has picked up an odd problem.

It started shortly after her last fill up - and about the time the season's changed and the outside temp started staying in the 40's and 50's most of the time.


The car starts and idles normally. It seems to run normally (although it could be a little flat on the acceleration) when the engine is running above 2000 RPM. No issues at any specific speed - all symptoms are at specific RPM's. Initial acceleration from a stop seems normal until around 1200 - 1500 RPM, or when moving and you drop into that RPM range and then:

From either a standing start or rolling forward at speed, when the accelerator is pressed down, the engine hestiates, then surges or stutters, and doesn't accelerate or gain speed until you push manage to get it over approx. 2000 RPM. the automatic transmission does not slip and shifts correctly.

Since this problem started, I have replaced:
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires
- no change in behavior

Then replaced:
Coil wire
Distributor cap
Rotor
-No change

Then replaced:
Fuel filter
-No change

The diagnostic block LED shows no errors.

I've looked over all hoses, wiring and such and find nothing that looks like it's a potential problem. I've checked the flame trap and it's associated hoses and they appear to be relatively clean and unblocked. The Air intake from the air filter box to the engine is solid, no gaps or cracks

The only thing that I find that is even slightly out of place is one of the rubber end of the fine tube that runs from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor. The intake manifold end has a rubber 90 degree bend that seems to showing it's age - slight surface cracking at the top of where it would have stress (at the top of the bend dhere it turns from horizontal (intake manifold side) to vertical (hose side). The cracks don't apear to be anywhere near big or deep enough to penetrate the rubber and comprimise the air pressure.


I'm frustrated at not being able to find the cause of this problem - I'm a semi-capable backyard mechanic without any significant experience with engine / fuel / emmision control problems.

Is the MAP sensor (or the tube going to the sensor) likely to be the issue? or could the heated air intake flapper be stuck in the wrong position?

What other causes might I be dealing with?

I have the factory radio with the tape deck below and the amp under the steering column. I bought an aftermarket radio. The essentially standard 20 watts x 4. Does anyone have any experience using a wiring harness to bypass the amp? Also, do the front dash speakers and front door speakers function like a component system or does the amplifier power each speaker separately. That being said, what exactly does this amplifier power and which speakers does the factory head unit power directly.

Thank you in advance whoever can help!!!!

hello all

just recently i been having trouble starting my car 86 740 gle it cranks just doesnt run. it started one cold morning couldnt get it to run. thought i might have water in the lines so i bought some fuel cleaner that you add in your tank when you fill it up. worked for a couple of days then there were times when it would take maybe 5 to 10 mins of cranking to actully get it to start. just yesterday it didnt wanna start it still cranks but wont turn over. i changed the fuel filter the main fuel pump and the intank pump bought a new relay. still the car wont start.

any help would be great

thanks for looking

well im kinda stuck here.. im in the process of stuffing a 84 b23ft into my 73 142.. its going very swell but im having some problems with my wiring.. its not installed yet, but actually strung out on a peg board in my garage lol.

anyways does anyone have a good service manual for an 84 760? Im not sure what pin 10 on the EZK (grey/red wire) does. it is fairly long so i musta dug for it for a reason. but my stupid chiltons dosnt give me a pin out of my ignition stuff.. hardly even does the jetronic.

thanks in advance..

i recently picked up a volvo oil cooler setup however i'm missing one of the banjo bolts that connects the line to the sandwich plate. I went to the volvo dealership today and they looked up the 740 and 760 for me yet they show a different type of line that doesn't use the banjo bolt. does anyone know what kind of volvo utilized these lines? or does anyone happen to have a part # for the banjo bolt? in the pic the lines have been cut smaller and the sandwich plate has been mounted on a vw but they show the type of lines that I have.

I just became the owner of a 1990 Volvo 740 Turbo w/ 97,000 miles. I noticed the #5 fuse was broken, so i tried to replace it. As soon as the replacement is put in, it sparks and blows. What could be causing this?

thanks for your help!