Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

The B21, and related red block motors, were named using the following convention: B##X or B##VX. Where B stands for "bensin" (gasoline), ## stands for the displacement in deciliters, and X is an appropriate suffix. On the later low-friction motors, V denotes SOHC configuration (0) or DOHC configuration (4, for 4 valves per cylinder).

i.e. B230 (SOHC, 2.3 Liters), B234 (2.3 Liters, DOHC * 4 valves per cylinder * 4 cylinders = 16 valves)

The following suffixes were commonly used by Volvo:

A - single constant-pressure type carburetor (such as the Pierburg 175 CDUS), typically with manual choke
B - high compression, with twin carburetor's, either twin zenith-strombergs or twin SU's.
E - high compression, no catalyst, fuel injected (usually K-Jetronic, LH2.2 Jetronic, or Motronic on the turbo motors)
F - low compression (9.8:1 on B230F, 9.5:1 on B280F, 10.0:1 on B234F and 10.7:1 on B6304F), USA/Europe version (F for Federal) with catalytic converter. Europe/APAC version, fuel injected (usually LH Jetronic or Bendix Regina)
K - single jet type carburetor (such as the Solex-Cisac carbs), typically with automatic choke
G - LH2.4 Jetronic but without cat. converter, CO adjustment on the AMM (similar to LH2.2 Jetronic). Some models without O2 sensor, others with O2 sensor which requires regular replacement at intervals due to lead fouling. For markets which unleaded fuel was rare in the early 90's, eg. Eastern Europe
FB - low compression version of B230F (9.3:1) with the "531" cylinder head and VX3 camshaft, power output 11kW and 2Nm more than B230F. LH2.4 Jetronic fuel injection, for European markets.
FD - essentially a B230F fitted with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Pulse air system for cleaner emissions
T - turbocharged, after E or F suffix (example: B21ET, B230FT)
FK - low pressure turbo, 1995 onward, not supplied in North America. Identical to the B230FT engine of that time but lowered boost level (4 PSI)
FTX - Higher power output B230FT (approx 190 hp)

Hello Guys & Gals,

I've been here for a few problems that yall kind folks have mostly let me in the right direction to alleviate. Let me keep this brief.

(don't know if all of this is pertinent)

about 5 months ago had a friend who I had to boost a bunch cause he kept leaving his lights on. his alternator was dead after a while and he borrowed my battery to get him to the service station. two weeks later my battery died. I bought a new battery from advance.

everything went fine other than a small headlight/tail issuse that's been with the car since I bought it but never seemed to present itself other than one tail light never working and one headlight not working.

about 2 weeks ago i stopped at a filling station and my car wouldn't start.

battery checked good, alternator was bad. got a used alternator off of another volvo i own (same kind, reman off of a 1989 740GL) at first the alternator was reading low at 11.5 volts, i decided to chance it and it failed me on the highway, went back with a fresh battery the next day and drove it home. now I have since had the alternator at two places, at some old timer electro mechanic and he said it read 14.5...didn't trust him....went to the new autozone and they tested it as PASS at 14+.... put the alternator back on the car and it's still not charging.

the car runs fine other than it ain't charging.
the alternator failure light is on, along with the two brake lights and bulb failure (which is to be expected because of particular system construction)

i've read over similar sounding posts and i've correctly wired up all wires, and the belt is taught.

is there a fuseable link that might be burnt through? is there any other main voltage lines or regulators I should look for? main fuses?

I've got the manual and a chilton's book, but I came here first and am going to an old school volvo mechanic tomorrow.

thanks in advance.

btw

1987 Volvo 740GLE 400,xxx miles. New Battery, 2003 Reman'd Alternator, 2004/5 replaced postive terminal and wire, countless number of small electrical flaws.

Hi, I am 84 and, until now, a happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. I hope that somebody would be able to give me some hint how to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
Tks. in advance

I've been living with a nuisance of a problem for a year and a half. After driving a while, shut down the engine, return to start a half-hour later, no response when key turned. Wait a while, everything's fine. We've chased all the underhood wiring connectors, all are clean and tight. Replaced the ignition switch. Have not yet been able to get it to fail when it's in the mechanic's shop. Problem worse in warmer weather, but it has misbehaved in mid-December, too.

Suggestions?

These two nuts, the way they look confuses me a lot. People who have done these before may laugh but I personally never have seen anything like these two.

How do I take off the nuts on the intake port on top in this picture? These nuts looks like two separate nuts with same diameter but they keep turning together. Are these nuts separate ones or one piece?

And there is a nut at the end of the EGR valve body that looks as if it is part of the valve body. Is that one also supposed to turn or is it fixed?

hey chaps fairly new to the forum, just wonder if anyone can help me. I purchased what i believe is a fairly rare volvo. Its a 83-84 760 Turbo with the B23ET motor, (dizzy on side of the block). I got the car home with a slipping clutch, bought a new one and changed it, worked mint. Then i had to remove the rear housing on the T3 garret turbo to free the jammed shut wastegate (thanks older previous owner!) so went to start it and now it doesnt go! checked everything and found one on the TWO flywheel sensors is faulty. these sensors are particular to the B23ET and not the B230 series engines which only use one sensor. Im in New zealand and cannot source them here, does anyone have any pointers for me... couple of pics for color!
Kevin

Would anyone happen to know how hot a volvo 740 Turbo exhaust would get? Cant seem to find anything on google. i ask because i saw that i can plasti dip exhausts and it can withstand around 312 degrees fahrenheit. Everything is stock.

I want to buy a new one cause this is all mess up but i have no idea what its called nor does anyone else when i try to explain it on the phone. And if anyone know the price of it and where i can get it it would be much appreciated!

1991 Volvo 740 station wagon Turbo
220K miles.
All stock.

Hi,
Thank you very much all for helping me with brake light issues.

On Sunday, I was fixing a friend's Mercedes which seemed to have had an alternator problem. To check out whether the mercedes would retain its idle for more than 10 minutes, I put the battery from my 740 and it's idle didn't last more than 10 minutes so I put it back in to my Volvo. Understandably, it didn't start so I had to jump. I came home and I trickle charged it over night but every time, I start, the volvo cranks really weak. The battery voltage is reading at 12.3 volts right now. I cleaned up the battery cable connectors but it is still the same.

Any one has any idea?

1991 740 Wagon
2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.

Hi,
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.

Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.

I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.

I need to fix this to avoid paying for the fix ticket in about ten days so your help is much appreciated.

July 2011 I bought my deep blue 1989 740 GLE 16 valve (DOHC) from a friend. It has 117,000K and was running great. 22 MPGs. The body, interior, and whole car in good condition otherwise. (well, except the cruddy headliner lol) The car was treated to scheduled services and was on it's 3rd timing belt, which had 24K on it but was old. (Replaced in 2005) (Yes, I failed to consider belt age D'oh! Lesson learned the hard way!)

7 of the belt's "teeth" sheared off at low RPMs going out of my driveway, thus vales are now bent, no compression with a new belt. The mechanic hasn't taken the head off so we don't know how many valves are damaged.

So here I am trying to decide whether or not to repair the car's head, or find one for sale, or drop in a used, same year engine with 97,000K. It's been sitting on blocks for 10 years, which would need $300 in new seals and $1000 labor.

My mechanic says go with what we know works and send the head out for repair. I don't know how much that will cost. Labor will be about $1000. Does any one here have leads and prices on a refurbished 16V (DOHC)head laying around and for sale? The main reason is it will take up to two weeks to get mine back to install.

What would you do? $1,500 estimate? for my car I believe is my best option. I'll need to raise the money somehow. The timing on the timing belt Hell couldn't have come at a worse time. I really could use a friend and a favor at this moment.

Thank you and for your time replying to my SOS. I need your advice and best solutions.

just wondering....

I recently replaced the head gasket on my 740 turbo. I still have coolant in my oil and it smells like fuel. I pulled the plugs and there is no coolant on them and they have some carbon on them. is it possible for the coolant and oil to mix elsewhere? Like the turbo?

I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immeiately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
Anybody know what else is left to replace? History here: I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.

Can it be the ECU? How to test before throwing money at it? If I buy an ECU off Ebay, can different years be interchanged or is it critical to get the exact ECU?

Is there ANY other parts to replace? I pulled out the injectors, and they do spray. I did boy the replacement injector relay off Ebay, second hand. Is there some way to test it, rather than assume it is working?

I noticed here on a posting to recommend a set of NOID lights, so I am going to get them since they are only $20, but even then I have run out of money practically, live in South Dakota, and this is the only volvo within 500 miles I suppose.
Thank you to any one with an idea!

Hey guys, been trying to solve this on going problem with my sisters car.. it starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowin (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing, and now im out of ideas... had a volvo mechanic friend lookin at it prior to my fiddlin with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but ive done everything i can think of to tackle that problem... anyone else had this happen?? any help greatly appreciated, thanks.

i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldnt start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away abd only went a few kms home.... what would this be i havnt driven it since!!

i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldnt start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away abd only went a few kms home.... what would this be i havnt driven it since!!

I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things.

Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.

What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which helped the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists.

My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no help in arriving at this conclusion.

The best price I've seen for a replacement is $95 (most are $150 or up), 1 yr war. I'm on a very limited budget and the previous repairs have meant this fix may be the last I can deal with. Have I finally got it?

A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternator. My car is running, but my low beam headlights are too dim to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dashlights, clock and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous. Thanks for your help.

I'm thinking about buying a 1988 740 turbo wagon (seller's description). I searched for a list of common problems with these wagons, but couldn't find anything. I would appreciate any pointers about what to look for when inspecting/driving the car.

Do these engines have a timing belt and how often do they need to be replaced?

Thanks

My local oil change place broke the clamps off of the air cleaner housing (the young assistant didn't fess up to his boss when he manhandled the cover off) and then they zip tied it back on claiming that I needed to have my mechanics fix it since the implication was tht I've been driving around with it flapping loose............as a new housing is $182, I've been stewing about it overnight (this happened late yesterday afternoon). Do I go in and point out that the young assistant should've stepped up and admitted he broke the clamps off the backside (the snapping was audible)?

I realize that most women are still considered clueless in the automotive world - but having owned a 1974 VW bus for 32 years - I know a little more than most gals.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Margaret

My 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it. Testable hypothesis are welcome!

FYI: the plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.

What is everyone using? I've been using trico neoform beam blades for years and they're awesome. Been getting them at wipers123 online and they update me periodically on how old they are which is a nice extra. Smooth, quiet, clean... Wondering if there's anything new I should be taking a look at before I buy new wipers for my entire 4 vehicle fleet?

Hi, I'm a mechanic of some years experience but this has me stumped.
I have a 1996 volvo 740 that won't start. Good spark and fuel.
Drove it to a friends, came out and it hasn't run since. Removed plugs, good spark. Checked fuel, ok but wont go. Removed plug and turned over and neat fuel sprays out of plughole and plugs very wet. Also seems to be fuel in oil suggesting neat fuel in the cylinders. Seems to me that injectors are permanently open and pouring fuel into pots hence flooding engine preventing starting? Also smells very heavily of petrol.
Checked the voltage accross the feed wires to the injectors and there is 12v at both wires when taken to earth. With a test bulb accross both wires it is permanently on whether cranking or simply ignition on suggestong that the injectors are permanently open?
These are my thoughts, anyone sensible out there got any adeas as I'm at a dead end but don't really want to scrap it.

Cheers

Hello all - new member.

I have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run. I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.

The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.

Any ideas?

hello all.....

i purchased an $800 92' 740 wagon today. while test driving the car, it was ok......sorta. i didnt think it would be a major issue, however:

when taking off from a dead stop and you press the accelerator, the car sorta hesitates, stumbles and is very flat with absolutely no power curve until you hit around 2200 rpm. it almost acts like turbo lag.....it only did it from a dead stop at first. as i got closer to home, it got worse, and worse, and worse. now, its everytime the trans shifts. also if i have to pull a hill.....forget it.

now i will say, i am mechanically inclined, and this car did come with records. the trans was replaced last year, a brand new head, and head gasket was installed on the car 6 months ago. the car has 282k miles on it, and i know this kinda mileadge on a volvo is nothing, especially in the condition that this particular car is in.

i did search this forum and came up with another thread almost exacting in symptoms on a 740 regina. those OP's claimed that the fuel pump was the issue, however, i dont see where a fuel pump would cause an issue only in a certain rpm range. the higher you accelerate, the worse the performance would get.

so as a shot in the dark, i decided to shop around for a fuel pump, but im told by one source, these cars have 2 pumps? a high volume low pressure in the tank, and a high volume high pressure in a forward mounted "surge tank"......i cant seem to find this mythical surge tank.

also....tonight sitting in a drivethru, the car suddenly started steaming from the hood, from what i thought was an obvious overheat....heres the kicker. i noticed driving the car home, the temp gauge has a short in it. the needle will go from dead to halfway, and jump around in between. when i popped the hood, i found what appeared to be the fan switch laying on the frame rail, and not in its home on the radiator. i stuck the switch back in the alloted space on the radiator, and now my electric fan comes on.......like its supposed to....never heard it while testing the car. car hasnt over heated since, but then again the gauge never show'ed any over heating in the first place.

so tonight while spee-lunking under the hood, i found that the intake tube between the filter box, and TB is wrapped in black ducktape, and is very soft.out of curiousity i popped the hose off, and theres a penny sized whole/rip in the hose......so i guess my question is this....is the 92 740 wagon 2.3 non turbo automatic a MAF or MAP car? i see the apparattus on the air filter box, but is it a MAF or AITS?

ill be replacing the flemsy rubber intake tube with a piece of 2.25" intercooler piping tomorrow. whats the chances that the rip is causing the hesitation issue? im saying....i guess that would all boil down to, is it a MAF car.

thanks in advance for the replies. i plan on being avid on here, as this is my first volvo, i build old school cars for a living, and actually have some plans for this car. i have a few nice toyota builds under my belt, one of which is a magazine cover feature, and id like to get this car in the same status, heres a few pics while im at it too....

i was wondering if you could take a different year volvo in the 700 series or different series and put the bumpers side panels and extra on my 88 740 gle. if anyone knows please reply.

Hello, we just came back from a 1200 mile trip with our 1987-740 gle wagon with manual transmission and had some trouble on the way with the engine rpm falling for split seconds. At any speed or any gear the engine will cut out two or three times in a row and then no problem for the next 30 or 60 minutes. Then the same thing happens again without warning or obvious cause. The first time it happened I thought that it would be dirty fuel. But after filling up multiple times that seems unlikely.
I went over the electrical wire connections and vacuum hoses with nothing obvious wrong.

Did any of you see this kind of problem before? Any suggestions what could be causing this and what I should check out next?

Thank you
Peter

I've worked on my 240's years ago, and they were pretty straight forward. I now have a '90 740 turbo and find things to be more alien to me. My issue is that recently we've developed irregular idling. We always had an issue of weeping away coolant, but the other day, a hose burst. I fixed the hose and topped the coolant and added oil. stared blowing vapor from exhaust (didn't smell like coolant) and through the dipstick. Temp gauge then pinned out shortly thereafter. I looked for pcv valve (which doesn't seem to exist, and changed the thermostat. Still pushing vapor from dipstick, but not from exhaust. I shut off the engine at that point to search for answers. I am not a mechanic, but I can fix some things with good advice. These days, I HAVE to fix things myself or start walking to work. Also saw mention of flame trap out there. Is that under the air intake? Looks like it'll be difficult to get out if I need to!

yours, images on your HD, google finds....whatever. i have plans on making my wagon appealing, and am looking for some inspiration. slammed, on air, stanced, rally style, aftermarket body cladding, rare over seas models (for different bumpers, headlights and grills, etc.)

i will say i am a 1 day newb to volvos......but i plan on putting this wagon, the place i put my last build: http://s3mag.com/blog/?p=2994

with that, i guess ill start with my stock brick....

The repair manual I have does not show me how to remove the dashboard. I need to replace the heater core, fix the speedometer, and maybe throw in an aftermarket cd player.

primarily I want to do the heater core.

Can anyone point me to some detailed instructions, possibly with photos?

Hey chaps, i have just purchased a 84 Volvo 760 Turbo with manual M46 gearbox. Long story short clutch is shot, need to change it. Have always done clutches on my others cars with no problems, the volvo has some of its own 'quirky' differences it seems.
a: how do i get the pin out that holds the gear stick in postion, hard to make out how it is held in place? I have removed the circlip etc, but there is a pin holding it in underneath.
Have everything else basically undone and ready to remove, the driveshaft seems interesting, sliders etc i gather this will unbolt from the rear flange on the gearbox?
couple of pictures of the old beast, seems it has had a easy start to life, one owner, then some local lads who undid all the good treatment... via a farm mud and paddocks etc






Thanks in advance kev,

Current threads on subject did not fully shed light on issue

Problem:
L\R Brake lights don't work

Details:

Middle Brake Light works
(other threads indicate this is an isolated circuit from L\R rear lights)

Middle light comes on\off properly with pedal motion, assuming that physical switch is ok
(pedal must be pushed relatively far to brake)

Turning Lights Work

Yellow Bulb Warning Light turns on @ dashboard when pedal pressed
(appears both turning signals turn on as well, solid i.e. no blinking for the duration of braking, don't know if they actually illuminate or if warning light is bright enough to make them appear so)

I need to get my key in just the right spot to get all car electronics to get power

Every light related fuses look to be in tip top shape, so assuming not that

Tail lights (ie top row of lights that are red) work when headlamps turn on

The wiring looms that plug into the tail light assemblies both had a problem. The same metal prong on both sides was burned\rusty looking while the others looked shiny. Scorch marks on the plastic connector of the loom. Trusting fuses to keep fires and such at bay, cleaned the metal prongs of gunk and reconnected.

I have a multimeter but don't know how to use it. I'll look up instructions on how if needed. If there's some advice that needs it's use please be specific about what I should be measuring.

Edit: I err should not have written that on my location but I can't seem to figure out how to edit. New account time !

Ok so I just bought a 1990 Turbo 740 Wagon. I thought it would be a great idea to change the oil as I do on every "new" vehicle to me. I drained the oil, took the filter off, put the drain plug back in, screwed the new filter on and filled it with oil, done, right? After I took the drain pan back to the garage I found the washer to the drain plug..... **** mistake. Now I have to drain the oil, put the washer back on the plug and put the plug back in. Does anyone know what the capacity is of the oil without the filter?? I know it is 4 quarts with but I will not be taking the filter off.

Thanks

1991 740 Turbo
200k
all stock

Now days I hear exhaust gas leak from inside engine room when the motor is fully warmed up and ran for some time. The other day I put seafoam treatment in the car and I saw white smoke coming from the turbo charger area.

Is exhaust gas leak from the turbo charger common?
What are the possible cause for this?

Make sure to like us on facebook at www.facebook.com/govolvoparts to stay up to date on our sales and promotions. I will be posting a black Friday special.

P.S I have a really cool 740 ad on there that you guys might like.


Thanks,
Luis
GoVolvoParts.com We offer OEM parts at wholesale pricing.

My '91 740 Station Wagon (neither diesel nor turbo) is the kind with a factory amp under the steering column but it's been bypassed for the newer radio I used to have. I'm comfortable with finding the basic 11 radio connection wires however; near the radio connection plug I found a speaker wire merged with a brown & white stripe wire,another with a gray wire, and another with a gray & red stripe wire. I'll have to look again for the 8th speaker wire which might be connected likewise.

In the meantime (I have not attempted to install the radio yet) my clock is stopped, the dome light doesn't come on, and the seatbelt alarm won't go off while the car is running. My diagrams only go up to the '88 model and doesn't account for the amp & such. If you help me figure out the connection between the undocumented wires and the malfunctioning stuff I'd appreciate it.

Yup. it's dripping oil. But only when it's up to it's operating temperature, and has been running. It looks like it's coming out of the front crank. is this normal for an engine with only 196,000 miles? it has been sitting for awhile though (2 1/2 years). Could it be that the seals need to expand again? it has the b230f engine.

if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.

can any one help please. every now and then, i park, when i try to start it turns over but will not fire. If i leave the car for a couple of hours,it starts.

One day I entered a free way suddenly when I got to 60mph the rpms went from 2 to 3.5 got out and got home then saw it had a leak. Couldn't find where it leaked from because it hasn't leaked since then but now it goes to 40mph and once I go above that the RPMs begin to rise. The seals don't seem broke. It just doesn't seem to go into high gear?
Checked hoses couldn't find leaks. Both tranny and oil levels are good.

I heard people talk about the overdrive solenoid ?is that something that might be wrong?

Btw. The button next to the shifter (od) never clicked

Sorry but need some advice I start school soon. Thanks!

Hi fellow enthusiasts,

My 740 GL has recently devloped a strange problem. Regardless of speed, whenever I push the accelerator to near wide open throttle or WOT, the engine loses power. It idles down to about 1000 rpm and will not respond until I pull over, turn off, and restart. It doesn't exhibit this behavior when in park. The car runs great otherwise (85+ mph) as long as I don't get close to WOT. I replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, and fuel filter.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Richard
rlsulliv@vasc.com

I recently purchased a 1989 760 Wagon with a damaged turbo. The previous owner told me he had " bypassed" the turbo(I assumed he meant the oiling lines). I bought a turbo rebuild kit, but after removing the manifold and turbo from the engine I discovered that the turbine and compressor has been completely removed. I looked into buying a used turbo but they go for about 450 dollars, I've looked into the t3t4 turbos on ebay and figure all said and done should only cost about 300(cheap ebay turbo). I was wondering if anyone had done this kind of a swap before, and if it's even possible, I know Volvo used a garret t3 in the same model just not sure about using a hybrid turbo.

Thanks for the input in advance.

So, after changing the inlet manifold gasket, my 740 misfires with a low, rough idle and stalls when in drive. When trying to start it after the gasket swap, injector 4 blew out the top of the engine! The things is, all the injectors have a small amount of movement in them. Is this normal? When I spray carb cleaner around all of the injectors, the idle surges . Surely that shouldn't happen either. Not only am I not sure whether injector 4 is the only problem here, I'm also having a great deal of trouble finding a replacement!

Help...please.

The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?

I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.

Could this be the fuel pump relay? Anyone have experience with this strange phenomenon? Thank you for your comments and suggestions.

Okay guys I have become fanatical at getting this figured. Can anyone tell me where the opposite end of the hose that contains the flame trap that connects to the pvc vavle goes? I think it goes onto part of the air filter system? Also can anyone tell me the name of the double metal hose that bolts onto the middle of the intake manifold? I need to buy the gasket it for it so I can reconnect.

DIY forever!

last week a hose blew in my 1990 740 gl (8 valve non-turbo). Today my neighbor and I took off the exhaust manifold to get to a blown heater core hose. I replaced the burst hose, but now I realize I am an **** and cannot remember where 5-6 hoses go. Does anyone happen to have a hosing diagram?

Like many owners of older 740s, I've just been through the process of fixing a no-run problem. After replacing the fuel pump in my 1991 740 non-turbo wagon and the fuel pump relay, the intermittent dying and no-start problem did not go away. Finally, it became permanent with no spark. Research here and elsewhere on the Internet narrowed the issue down to the coil module or the crankshaft position sensor, so I ordered both parts. The coil module I bought used from a running Regina system 740, and I ordered the sensor from an eBay dealer.

Replacing the coil module didn't solve the problem, so it was time to replace the sensor. On another internet site, someone had written up the process of replacing the sensor, using a string of 3/8" drive extensions and wobble-joints to access the 10mm bolt that holds the sensor into the bell housing. Very complicated and unwieldy. I've been wrenching on cars for many years, so I decided to take another look at the job before starting. Here's the process I worked out by studying the car and thinking, and it works perfectly. It took only 5 minutes to do:

1. Use a flashlight to locate the sensor and the bolt. You'll have to peer at the thing from the passenger side fender, looking over the air conditioning pipes. It's below the distributor, on the top of the bell housing. The reason for this step is so you can orient yourself to its exact location. While you're removing and replacing it, you won't be able to see what you're doing, so you'll need to visualize it in your mind.

2. Carefully put your left hand between the engine block and firewall, and locate the retaining bolt head and the wire from the sensor with your fingers. Again, this is an orientation process, because you'll be feeling your way through this job. There's only about 3" of space behind the engine block, so it's a somewhat tight fit back there.

3. The only tool you'll need is a 10mm combination wrench with a racheting box end. These are sometimes called combination gear wrenches. You can usually pick up a set of these fairly cheaply, and they have multiple uses. Or just buy the 10mm one. You flip the wrench over to choose between tightening and loosening.

4. Orient the wrench so that it will loosen the bolt, and then using your left hand, with your index finger placed over the ratcheting box, insert your hand and the wrench carefully behind the engine block and place the racheting box end over the retaining bolt head. The reason for putting your index finger over the box end is to make it easier to find that bolt head, since you won't be able to see.

5. Carefully re-orient your hand on the wrench, trying not to pop the box end off the bolt head and then loosen the retaining bolt. You'll be able to move the wrench only about 10 degrees, so keep going until the ratchet won't loosen the retaining bolt any further, then remove the wrench and your left hand.

6. Insert your right hand behind the engine block, thumb down, and use thumb and index finger to finish removing the retaining bolt. Keep one finger on the bolt at all times. You'll only be able to manage a partial turn each time. When the bolt is free, carefully remove it and take it out from the narrow space. Put it somewhere safe.

7. Using your right hand again, thumb down, reach in and wiggle the sensor to make sure it's free. Use your thumb and forefinger to twist the sensor, using the area where the retaining bolt goes for leverage. Normally, this is easy. When the sensor is moving freely, you can lift it out of the bell housing and from behind the engine block.

8. Disconnect the sensor at the connector near the driver's side firewall. Pry the spring clip loose and put it safely somewhere. It's small and easily lost. You can fish the plug through the zip tie on the firewall, but it's not all that easy. Move the other wires, etc. until you get it out. Don't bother trying to fish the new sensor's plug through there. It's a waste of time. Just zip tie the wire to the other wires after installation.

9. After plugging in and securing the new sensor, carefully route it and let it drop behind the distributor, near where it will go.

10. Insert the 10mm retaining bolt in the sensor's extension. Using your left hand, put your index finger on the top of the retaining bolt, grasp the sensor with your thumb and second finger and carefully maneuver the sensor into position, lowering the sensor into the hole in the bell housing. You may have to fiddle a bit, but if you oriented yourself well before starting, you'll find the hole easily with the part by feel. Keep your index finger on the top of the retaining bolt as it rises when the sensor enters the bell-housing. Gently turn the assembly until you feel the retaining bolt find its threaded hole. It's hard to describe, but you'll feel it. Very carefully, move your hand, and work with thumb and forefinger to start the bolt in the threads. If you don't have lots of experience, this will be the most difficult part of the job, since the quarters are so tight and since you can't rotate the bolt much. Don't rush and don't accidentally pull the bolt out and drop it. The bracket is deep enough to keep the bolt from falling out on its own. Just don't raise the bolt.

11. Once you've started the threads with your left hand, switch to your right hand, thumb down, and continue turning the bolt head to tighten it. When you can no longer move it with your fingers, use the ratchet box end of the wrench to finish the tightening job.

If you're lucky, like I was, and the sensor was the problem, your Volvo will be running again.

Note: This sequence applies to a 1991 non-turbo 740 Regina model specifically, but I believe it will work for all 740 models using the bell housing mounted sensor.

Experienced mechanics have "eyes in their fingers," since so many automotive jobs require doing things where you can't see. I've described this job in much more detail that I would if I were describing it for an experienced mechanic. If you haven't developed those "eyes" in your fingers, this job will be a good way to do that. The other method, using a long string of extensions and universal joints, is a terrible idea, and is sure to result in dropped bolts and intense frustration. This method, while not child's play, gets the job done quickly, with a minimum of fuss.

Due to my working within city, I hardly drive on highways so all my milege readings are city readings. Recently I noticed that the milege measurements at 3/4 full tank and 1/4 full tank were different. When I fill up the tank with 3/4 full and 1/4 of full tank left are very different. At 3/4 full, my city mpg is at 16mpg however when I fill up the tank with 1/4 of fuel left, the milege is at 14 or less. This happens repeatedly. Could this be the sign of fuel pump dying?