Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Found one that I'm seriously considering buying from a guy that fixes up and sells older Volvo's for a hobby. What interests me the most about this car over others I've found is that this guy has all the service records since it was bought new. He says all the maintenance has been kept up with, and he's done some things himself recently before selling such as new brakes, and tires, charging ac, etc... The engine has 200k miles on it, so I'm a little curious what you guys who are more familiar with these cars might know about what to look for, and what else to ask about besides the obvious info I got from him, and the information I asked about?

I have a 1989 740 GL. As with all GL models, it comes with the stupid plastic wheel covers to go over the steel rim. The GLE's and 760's have great alloy wheels. Anybody know where I can get a full set of them for cheap online?

Thanks

I have a 91 740 with about 200,000 miles. It recently started shifting roughly. I haven’t noticed anything else wrong with the car. I drive this car about 30 miles a day with a lot of stopping and starting on hills so I’m not surprised something is wrong. If anyone has an idea what going on I’d greatly appreciate any advice.

Thanks Dan

Looking into some 240's, 740's, and 850's after my '00 S40 gave up the ghost. Just wanting to get some insight as to the pro's and con's of each model as compared to each other, from those of you more knowledgeable of Volvo's. My wife has previously owned both a 244, and and 850 and speaks very highly of both, but she's not knowledgeable of the finer details of the vehicles. I'm gonna post in the all three of the forums for you guys. Thanks.

Hey guys and girls. Im picking up a 92 volvo 740 turbo intercooled automatic wagon.
I am very experinced with turbos, etc, my daily driver is a 2004 Nissan Sentra I boosted/tuned myself. That car is pushing about 290whp.

Just a few questions. Is there anything thats normally wrong with these, or anything I should look out for?
The car runs well, and everything. Got a little valvetrain noise, but not bad.


Im just looking for info, or links, to any known issues I should keep an eye out for.
Also what are some quick, and easy upgrades that are freebies..Anything out there?
Thanks for the time.

Hello Guys & Gals,

I've been here for a few problems that yall kind folks have mostly let me in the right direction to alleviate. Let me keep this brief.

(don't know if all of this is pertinent)

about 5 months ago had a friend who I had to boost a bunch cause he kept leaving his lights on. his alternator was dead after a while and he borrowed my battery to get him to the service station. two weeks later my battery died. I bought a new battery from advance.

everything went fine other than a small headlight/tail issuse that's been with the car since I bought it but never seemed to present itself other than one tail light never working and one headlight not working.

about 2 weeks ago i stopped at a filling station and my car wouldn't start.

battery checked good, alternator was bad. got a used alternator off of another volvo i own (same kind, reman off of a 1989 740GL) at first the alternator was reading low at 11.5 volts, i decided to chance it and it failed me on the highway, went back with a fresh battery the next day and drove it home. now I have since had the alternator at two places, at some old timer electro mechanic and he said it read 14.5...didn't trust him....went to the new autozone and they tested it as PASS at 14+.... put the alternator back on the car and it's still not charging.

the car runs fine other than it ain't charging.
the alternator failure light is on, along with the two brake lights and bulb failure (which is to be expected because of particular system construction)

i've read over similar sounding posts and i've correctly wired up all wires, and the belt is taught.

is there a fuseable link that might be burnt through? is there any other main voltage lines or regulators I should look for? main fuses?

I've got the manual and a chilton's book, but I came here first and am going to an old school volvo mechanic tomorrow.

thanks in advance.

btw

1987 Volvo 740GLE 400,xxx miles. New Battery, 2003 Reman'd Alternator, 2004/5 replaced postive terminal and wire, countless number of small electrical flaws.

Just recently, my 1985 Volvo 740 stopped shifting into overdrive, and just continues to stay in a low gear. It's an automatic transmission, and we can't drive faster than 30 miles an hour. It will not shift into the final gear. I checked the transmission fluid and it seems to be O.K. Any thoughts on what could be wrong?

I have had a problem with the crank bolt for the harmonic balancer coming loose on my son's 1991 740. I removed the bolt last year when I replaced the head gasket, and it has now come loose twice, of course damaging the crank timing gear both times. Now that I have my replacement gear, from EEuroparts.com, I want to make sure I get it tight this time. I do have an impact wrench this time as well as Locktight blue. I don't have the tool to hold the crank from turning. Thoughts?

Steve

PS I am repairing this to sell the car, as we just bought a beautful black 1994 940 wagon to replace it. 141000 miles for $2000.

where can i get one? how much would it cost? and how would install it


thanks

Is it the two wire plug on the driver's side of the block? My gauge works intermittantly. I think the wire is bad or loose and I'm in the middle of a 1200 mile trip.

Thanks

E

My fuel level sending unit isn't working properly. The gauge
showed 33% full when it was empty. I verified that the gauge
is okay with some resistors.

I started pulling the sending unit but can't figure out how
to disconnect one of the connections: It's at about 1 o'clock,
with a 90% elbow and then a tinner hose w/ rubber jacket that
runs frontward to the right. It appears there's a coupling
after about 10" inches that could be broken but it won't be
easy to get a wrench in there.

Also, there's a ~ 1" rubber hose at about 7 o'clock. I have
tried to get it off yet (it's under the filler tube). It
seems to be just pressure fit. Maybe someone forgot to put
a hose clamp on it?

Curiously, when I previously started to pull the sending unit,
ran outa time and put it back, the gauge re-registered the correct
amount of fuel but is stuck at that reading. Ideas?

the lock on my 740's glove box has failed in the LOCKED position.

can anyone advise about how to jimmy it open so i can repair/replace
the lock??

Last night, 5/9/05, I bought a 1991 Volvo 740 for my son. I need access to the glove box, but cannot get it to open. It is unlocked but the latch must be detached. Has anyone got a way to open the latch without taking the box out, or do I need to start disassembling the dash on that side?
If someone could send a digital photo of the lock and goor in the open position, it would be a help in figuring out how to open it. Thanks,

Steve

I have a 1991 740 Volvo sedan and recently just starting having stalling problems.
My mechanic changed the distributor cap, but I am still having the problem. On sun sept 09/07
I stalled at a red light, but the car started up right up again after stalling. It has happened several times in wet and dry weather.

This problem is driving me crazy and I want to fix it before winter sets in. I hope some one
can help me with this problem. But for the most part the car seems to run very well.

I'm having trouble with speaker wires and power wires of 1992 volvo. I have recognized the 1995 volvo 850, stock radio wires, and tested them too. Is there a pre amp on my 1992 and if there is on how do I by pass it?

My wife was driving our 1990 740 the other day and it overheated and blew a heater hose. After changing the heater hose and valve (it broke when trying to install the new hose)things seemed fine. However, the next day I noticed a ticking noise that seems to be getting worse. Could this be related to the overheating? Is it related to vacuum somehow? I am at a loss here and would like some advice.

Thanks

I just took out my stock radio for a brand new one and it would be helpful if someone could tell me what the wires are? The wires i found so far is


Black/Yellow
Black/White
Yellow
Brown
Green
Blue
Red
Gray
Green (With a Plastic Cover On The Wire)
Black
Sky Blue
White
White/Blue
Red
Blue/White

If some one could tell me what these wires mean that would be great
-Connor

ok i have a 92 740 with the regina ignition system and one day i drove to work and when i got off i went out and it cranked and cranked and did not start
so i took it to a mechanic who changed the timing belt and did something because the fuel injectors wernt getting power and afterward it would start and run with starter fluid (told us the MAP sensor needed replacing[regina doesnt have a MAP]) so i got it home and looked at it because it was getting harder and harder to keep running (stalling when stopping) and replace the MANIFOLD AIR PRESSURE REGULATOR to no avail and then i tried to reset the fuel system computer (by removing the Battery cable for 10 min) and now it wont start at all with or without starter fluid (fuel injectors no longer clicking but am getting plent of spark[shocked me threw a screwdriver handle])
i did manage to get it started once (with help of starter fluid) but i had to pump the gas extremely fast and it was smoking with a very harsh fume and it eventually stalled

i am very good with cars but this one has me stumped... could the fuel computer be shot????


so thats where im at
im having to use my 4x4 and am getting 12 to the gallon any help would be great

oh ye and i have checked the fuel pump is running and it has very recently (end of last summer) been replace with the fuel filter and it is not throwing any codes

ok so im pretty sure (after 7 edits) that i have given all the info i have
HELP!!!! i need my volvo back!!!

ok so after searching and searching i have come to the conclusion that it may be the RSR still looking for advice!!!

Hello,

The number "9" fuse which controls the Power Windows and Blinkers keeps blowing.
Although, I'm taking the car to the mechanic, your input is more than welcome.
Could you explain the issue? has anybody else had this issue? what are the expected
cost?...etc: ) THANKS SO MUCH!:D
That's a picture of myself when it comes to cars;) haha!!

I have just recently experienced an issue trying to start my 740 on thurs the 28th may 09.
The problem is a long time for the car to start at least about 3-6+ turns of the ignition then it will finally start, but when it does start it does it as if it was not receiving fuel to the pump.
This occurs when the engine is cold an even hot.
Within a year I have already installed a new Fuel filter, Fuel Pump (under driver side) and (In tank), Fuel Pump relay (ashtray).
So I'm a little lost needing advanced trouble shooting which the Haynes manual is lacking!
Much appreciated if any fellow Volvo driver can give.

My Car was in a minor accident that left the fuel door falling off. I bought a new hinge and a new spring to replace it but I still have the old door. I managed to replace the hinge alright, at least I think I did, but I'm stuck on how to fit the spring on the hinge and attach the door correctly.

Basically I'm stuck at this part.



This is the new hinge I installed.



The spring and the old fuel door I have.

I'm going through a trial and error process right now but I don't want to push things to hard because the hinge seems kind of frail and I'm afraid I might break it. Is there a part of the fuel door that is missing and I have to buy a new one too, do I have the wrong parts? Or is there some really easy step that I'm overlooking? Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all. New to the site. I have a 91' 740 sedan. It recently stalled on me. The hubby changed the spark plugs and wires and the distributor cap. Stalled again. Took it to the local mechanic. They couldn't duplicate the problem. They checked most of the sensors; temp, air charge, MAP, o'2, radio suppression relay, fuel pressure....they couldn't find anything wrong. Drove it home. Made it to the driveway and it started sputtering and coughing then died. Made some horrible sounds. Heavy sigh. Runs fine for a bit, then starts to hesitate, then dies. Appreciate your insight.

my 2.3 l turbo 760 is starting to get on my nerves i dont want to give up on the car though!
ok this is my issue....i have replaced the battery, alternator, and starter (needed replacement) and my car still stops on me. I am think there might be an electrical short in the car....but my grandpa is telling me there might be a problem with the ignition coil....basically, when i dont give my car gas sometimes it stops on me, but then i start it back up again like nothing....im stumped....please help!!!

It was working fine, got home and (I think) coincidentally changed out the wiper blades. After doing this I turned on the washer to check the sweep of the new longer blades. Now no washer fluid. I do have front washers. Not knowing the system for sure, I filled the reservoir thinking the rear pickup was higher than the front pickup and the fluid was below minimum. That made no difference, what I did notice was the fluid leaking out onto the ground between the front wheel and the front third of the door. There is obviously a break in the line or disconnect. The Haynes gives me no help on this. I will take the car to work tonight where I can bring it in to a warm and dry bay and put it up on some ramps. Can anyone give me some direction as to the location and the makeup of the line? Does it run inside the frame rails? is there a weak spot in this general area? I tried the search function but had no joy.
I am new to Volvos but having a small collection of daily driver (in the winter too) MGs I am not too much a novice.

i have a 91 Volvo 740 non turbo. the check engine light came on so i read the diagnostic codes and got 1-4-3 (Front knock sensor signal absent or faulty)

I'm a poor student and know very little about cars is this something that i can fix myself or do i need to take it to the shop and if so how much should i expect to spend? Thanks in advance

1986 Volvo 740 GLE Turbo Intercooled

Am about to possibly buy this car for my son. Neither of us are mechanically inclined.

I'm told the following: Ran great until power lost to fuel pump at relay and fuse panel.

Any advise on what is wrong and what it will cost to fix would be totally wonderful.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

Quick question

1989 760 gle 2.8 V6

Should there be one or two alternator belts fitted, and following from this, where pulleys are double ie water and steering pumps should they be double belts as well?

Finally, apart from breakers yards, any idea on supplier of the approx 5 inch slightly curved 1 inch internal diameter cooling hose from LH Block to thermostat housing?

Many thanks

Chris

The door alarm on my volvo will constantly go off the second I put the key in the ignition even if none of the doors are open. I've checked everything and I cannot figure out what it could be. I wanted to know if it is possible to maybe remove the alarm...? Please help.

Never mind i figured it out thanks

Hi
I have a 1989 760 GLE Estate with the v8 engine

I am trying to chage the plugs, but they are really tight in the mounts and I dont want to break them.
I am using a long reach tubular 10mm plug spanner and I have managed to loosed one by using a hammer on the tommy bar, but I onder if there is any preparatory work I should do first to make them easier?
Also, It is now a non starter, it was running fine but just lately started but was reluctant to accelerate . Now non starter. I have checked the fuel delivery and I think this is ok, but until I can get the plugs out I cant tell, coil seems ok, I have used the 760 coil to start my 940 ok and substituted the 940 coil to see if the 760 will start.

Distributor is ok but could do with renewing as is rotor arm


Appreciate this is limited info but any thoughts? as soon as I can get a plug out I will check for a spark

Many thanks

first off...hello from a new member in south carolina..
ok.im working on my friends 760 non turbo that stopped running.he thought the fuel pump quit and put one on it.he then noticed the harness under the hood had all the insulation in a few spots completely gone from oil and heat.i have the car to fix and have a couple of questions.i repaired the wiring but i have one wire im confused about.the connector on the left fender right near the power steering tank has a heavy guage brown wire that has a loop connector on the end.im thinking i took it off the ground but i cant find it on the diagram.next question its not firing the fuel pump relay or the injectors,i believe the hall effect sensor in the distributor is bad wich is his original problem but i need to know what wire is what(sig,ref volt,grnd ect) so i can test it but the schematics dont elaborate.

A lady up the road from me runs a 1990 740 estate. I have been working on it today (front shocks, rack gaiters etc) it needs a seatbelt socket for the LH front. It has a pretensioner attached to it it seems. The socket is tricky to release the belt buckle from so she wants a replacement for safteys sake, anyone got one? Is it the same item used on other Volvos? Looks like a new one is about £80 from volvo, and thats a lot of money to her especially after all ther other bits (even at trade prices)

Any help appreciated.
Will

whenever i put my 760 from parking into drive, there is a thump in the rear axel. Any way you can help me out?

I am planning on buying a 740 turbo for cheap that has one problem, the turbo does not work. the turbo might just need a simple repair, but i was wondering if anyone could knew any place/website where i could locate a OE or aftermarket(if they make em)turbo? is it even worth replacing? is it a difficult job?

Recharged my fiancee's 94 volvo 850 two weeks ago, time to do my car.
86 Volvo 740, its been retrofited to R134a.

Location of the low side port?
also any tips on the recharge procedure for this car I should be aware of?
thanks!

Was working fine one day and then now it will not even idle on its own. Engine turns over and starts fine but will not keep running. dies. With depression of gas pedal I can keep it running although the idle fluctuates wildly and turbo gauge increases with less pressure on gas and decreases when reved higher. Occasionally backfires while giving it gas. Once it is moving it will run but the turbo runs high at low speeds, once car stops it dies.

Have changed spark plugs and wires. No smoke out of exhaust.

I'm having issues with the car starting in cold weather conditions. This only occurs in the morning when the car has been parked for at least 8 hours and when the temperature is under 35°F or so.

What happens...

Turn the ignition and the engine cranks and cranks and cranks. Eventually it catches, sputters and either dies or finally revs normally. The colder the weather, the worse it becomes. Below 20°F, it may not start at all or take 3 or 4 times before the engine finally fires up.

Had this problem last year, took the car to the shop and after having the battery replaced, the problem appeared to be fixed. Here it is a year later, the weather's turning cold again and I'm back to square one...

Any ideas?

I have 1990 Volvo 760 turbo wagon and just recently I noticed the car lacking in "oompf" and saw that the needle on the boost guage would stop pointing up and not go any into the boost area.

Does that mean my turbo is seized up?
please help.

I got a tail light from an 83-87 740/760 to replace the light in my 89 760 Turbo.

The wiring is different and I know that a few of the wires need to be change in order for it to work.

Does anyone have the wiring diagrams OR has anyone done this conversion?

Well...
It looks as though I am moving along the Volvo evolutionary ladder.
On Saturday, I will probably be driving a 1990 745 GLE.

I have only ever driven one 740 in my career. That was just to go get coffee.

I have driven the 240 since 1982. I know this type intimately.

Are there any little quirks in the 740 I should be watching for when I go to have a look?

Steve
Selma, Nova Scotia

hi,

I just picked up a 1990 740 Estate Auto.

It seems to working fine, all except the way it changes gear and when it chooses to do so.

It generally goes from first to second at 2500rpm, and doesn't go to fourth at all unless i lift off and am putting very little load through the transmission.

This all seems a little odd and it changing too high.

I'd like to 'reset' it to change 500rpm lower and allow it to pull in fourth instead of constantly going to third!

thanks for any help/advice with this

James

Alright I am not new to bleeding brakes I realize start at rear brake furthest away etc... My question is with the front brakes I have never had a car with the dual pistons and dual lines up front. should I be getting fluid to both bleed valves on the front calipers, I only get pressure to one. Logic tells me 2 lines, 2 valve should have pressure at both and be able to bleed both. I have same issue with both front calipers. I tried the search function and found nothing.

I have a '88 740 turbo with a cracked exhaust manifold and faulty overdrive. Are there any replacement parts/engine/transmission swaps available? I'm hoping to beef up the performance a bit, but ran into the manifold issue. I found some interesting head replacements but have no idea as to what will fit because I dont know what engine I have. Does anyone else know? Also, Im trying to find a good place to run a cold air intake. Any ideas would benefit. Thanks.

well i was driving down the road one night and all of a sudden my windshield wipers came on... so i found the appropriate fuse and removed it temporarily, so the next day i put it back in, and the problem stopped. so that night i turned to head lights on and there it was again, can anyone help me? when i put my highs on the left is very dim and my left turning light is also, in lows when turning on my blinker the left headlight also, can anyone help me? has this happened to anyone? kinda sux especially passing a cop with a blinker at night. pls help.

I have been posting in alt.autos.volvo. But I thought I would post here as I am still having trouble

> F Murtz wrote:
>> latest symptoms, car is hard to start but after starting goes for 1/4 hour or so then conks out it sometimes starts and idles but conks out when accelerated if I manage to start at high revs the engine runs till I move accelerator or put in gear then it stops.I have tried an other second hand computer , same symptoms.
>>
>> I am having trouble identifying system (to check codes) The engine is a B230F, It has a bosch comp.with these numbers 3547777 0 280 000 935,it has an air mass meter, it has standard looking round can coil and the distributor is on back of cam shaft.
>>
>> Fault codes on socket 2 are 1:2:3 and 1:3:1 (131 does not seem to mean anything)
>> Fault codes on socket 6 are 2:2:4 and 2:1:4
>>
>> If it is rex regina this would mean temp sensor and rpm sensor but I am told rex regina does not have air mass meter ???
>>
>> I have changed temp sensor but old one had the same resistances
>> aprox 4k ohms near freezing and 210 ohms near boiling.
>> If it is the impulse sensor (rpm sensor) Where is it and can it be got at.I have changed fuel filter and can hear pump and if I break fuel line it pumps fuel but I have not measured pressure.
>>
>> The temp guage reads half way after warm up and stays there.
>> these engines seems to run very cool and do not seem to have much pressure even when warm you can take cap off oval tank

One problem is which fault code chart do I use do the "Table 1: Bosch LH2.4 and Motronic 1.8 Fuel Injection Fault Codes"? If so the 131 seems to mean rpm sensor.

Hey guys, I need someone who is knowledgable of replacing turbos in cars, in particular, the 740 turbo obviously. I would like to have more power than stock turbo, particularly top end power, as the stock turbo very much lacks this.

So if someone could list some good reliable sources for turbo replacements, and other accessories needed to do the job... I would like to spend around $1500 on it. The turbo was actually already replaced once, from the previous owner. There is also an underlying problem why two have already cooked... oiling problem, leaking oil, something is wrong somewhere because one speed run i did, almost all the oil was forced out of the dipstick and into the engine bay... arrrggg. That's what cooked the turbo this time, no oil.

Any, and all info on the subject is appreciated.

Seth

Hello there, the 740 is my first car and it has been very reliable and i am surprisingly happy with it, i say that because i didnt think id like volvo being as i was raised around american cars. but i do have some problems with it and heres the list, btw as the topic says i have a 1988 Volvo 740 GLE.

Major Problems:

1. Heavy steering wheel/general vibration when applying the brakes moderately at higher speeds, pushing all the way down usually lessens the problem. I believe it to be the bushings for my steering, although i havent had the brakes replaced since i got it but the brake pads are fine.

2. Just recently i have heard "knocking" on what seems to be in the general direction of the right front tire while im turning right slightly. I believe this may be my bushings getting worse than they already are or something.

3. My grandpa told me i need to replace the driveshaft centersupport assembly(bearings etc.) how would replacing this benefit my car? what are signs of it being shot?

4. My hatch seems to be vibrating very bad especially on bumpy roads and it gets to be rather loud and annoying. The hatch was loose(didnt shut all the way) untill recently(idk how it fixed itself) but the problem is still there. could it be the pins or the plastic thats against the door shaking? possibly the spare tire and tools shaking around? something i noticed about this was that when it starts shaking really loud when i look into my rear view mirror i can see the back seats shaking but i cant duplicate the noise or problem by moving them around myself.

Minor Problems:

1. Passenger window doesnt roll up correctly, theres a small gap allowing air into the car, is there anyway to adjust the way to goes up and down? I have power windows of course.

2. Driver side door doesnt want to open sometimes, its usually rare though. I shouldve already but i havent oiled the latch at all, will this help?


Thanks to anyone that can help me and give me any tips. comments/questions welcomed.

P.S I am thinking about getting all new struts/shocks/tires/brakes and an alignment for my car. i estimated that this will cost 500-700$ if someone can tell me if im in the general price range that would be great.

Where is the a/c clutch relay on a 91 740?
I'm 99% sure that the relay is my problem but I can't find it.
Thanks

My 1988 740 wagon has drive train roughness/rumbling at certain times. After it has warmed up I notice this around 2000 to 2500 rpm in the lower gears. It is worse when the car is loaded. I don't notice it when cruising at constant speed. Any ideas?

Hi
Does anyone know of a good radio repair service for 1990 760 Volvo wagon radio I would like to keep the car orginal .? The radio cuts in and out took radio out bumped it and in goes on and off trouble in radio not cass part .

Also has anyone found a newer Radio CD AM fm that will fit into the two spaces when the old radio is removed.that do not look too bad with a new face plate.

Thanks Dave