Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I'm really not trying to fix it up I might want to boost up my turbo to make it alittle bit faster.Does any1 have any ideas? Thanks

I have a 1990 740 GL non-turbo, I now that it is cold outside I need my heater. I need some help on how to trouble shoot it, it only blows heat on (4) , so how do I find out if it is the switch or not.

My '91 Volvo 740 wont start anymore. When I turn the key it will attempt to start, however it won't turnover to get finally start it... What do I do to find out the problem

What sort of grease should I use to get my hood to open smoothly?
I am doing some work on it and need it to open properly.

I have discovered that my '90 740GL (with Rex ign.) has a leak coming from the base of the sending tube (where the tube and the plate meet).

It appears that there has been some sort of epoxy that has worn away from the leaking area and I am wondering if I can repair this leak without spending $500 on a new unit?

Would solder work?

About a month ago as the weather turned cold, all of a sudden my car would die if I accelerated from park. If I gave it a little gas it would sort of kick in and idle differently and than run fine. Another thing I noticed at about the same time was the overdrive light started coming on but was dim when I started the car. This would go away if I drove it for a bit or if I pushed the over drive button on and off.

Yesterday the check engine light came on when I started from parked and cold. And this happened when I pused the overdrive button twice to turn the dim light off.

I checked everything about the car, drove it 70 miles, ran fine when warm, all fluids look clean and good to go. The only issue I found is I put in a little too much oil recently so I am about a 2 centimeters abox MAX on the dip stick. But it is hard to believe this would be very serious.

Today I drove to work and the check engine light was still on. Later when I started my car from cold the check engine light was off for the first time in several startups but that dim overdrive light was back (this comes and goes). So I pushed the overdrive button on and off again to turn the light off and the check engine AND service engine light came on.

Seems like it might be electrical but I dunno, any ideas?

Hello. My Volvo 740, 1988, 2.3i wan''t to start. Problems have begun after repair of brakes, which lasted 2 months. After that the car was not started. It was found out, that the pump in a fuel tank does not work. After its replacement the engine started for 10 seconds and stops. At switching-off the MAF sensor engine works on idle speed (500 rpm). After replacement MAF sensor on good mone, the situation has not changed. I have checked spark, mail fuel pump relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, all is ok. Any idea will be useful.

Hello friends. Could you please tell me, Volvo 740 ( 2.3, 1988 MY ) have same front brake calipers,like installed on Volvo 960 ( 3.0, 1992 MY ) ?

Hello all, I would like to have some advice from you people. I have a cousin with whom I mostly go out in the city. She takes her car out most of the times but the trouble strikes when often she forgets the place where she parked the car. I usually remember but it so happens that I get down and she goes on to park it. She is just so engaged with her iPhone that she almost forgets where she get off and everything about the car. I need to take care of this problem and so I would need some advice from you people.

Any help will be appreciated.

I'm wondering if there might be any ideas:
my 740 GLE is idleing poorly when its cold and the heat is on. If the heat is off the idle is maticulous, where it should be. When I go to start the car and it is cold. It turns over after 4 solid seconds of turning the key. I wonder if it's a combination of a dirty Throttle Body, and the idle screw being to low? --since when the windshield defrost/heat is on (max) I don't seem to have this problem. Only when the face vents are on does this occur. I read somewhere that when the windshield defrost is on, AC kicks on and requires a higher idle... is there anything to test for, or look at?
I have read other posts, but need a more firm direction.
Thanks

I'm having issues with the car starting in cold weather conditions. This only occurs in the morning when the car has been parked for at least 8 hours and when the temperature is under 35°F or so.

What happens...

Turn the ignition and the engine cranks and cranks and cranks. Eventually it catches, sputters and either dies or finally revs normally. The colder the weather, the worse it becomes. Below 20°F, it may not start at all or take 3 or 4 times before the engine finally fires up.

Had this problem last year, took the car to the shop and after having the battery replaced, the problem appeared to be fixed. Here it is a year later, the weather's turning cold again and I'm back to square one...

Any ideas?

Can someone tell me what light bulbs I need for the Brake lights and rev lights and running lights on my 1988 740 GLE and I also need a picture of the fuse box guide if someones go one. I'm still having problems getting all the rear lights to work! Thanks A.J.

I have a 86 740 that would not start, i replaced the neutral safety switch and it started but after i turned the car off it will not start again.

Would I be able to put 780 bertone seats into my 740?
and I wasn't sure if it'd be possible to also use the 780's front air dam?
thanks for any bit of advice.
j

I have a 95 960 wagon.

In the past we have had a occasional problem where an orange arrow has started to flash beneath the tach meter - combined with a flashing of the lights on the drive mode (winter,sport, economy). Other than the flashing lights the car seem sto work perfectly. In the past the local volvo guy has "reset" the system and the flashing lights has gone away.

My wife tells me that the speedometer stopped working during the last "flashing event" - of course the speedometer works fine when I get in the car (go figure). The local volvo guy says we need a new speedometer and a new circuit board - parts alone cost over $800.

Need some advice - the local independent mechanic says that the flashing arrow and the speedometer problem are linked .. the sensor connected to the transmission is not getting proper feedback from the speedometer which is causing the flashing and the transmission is going into " limp home mode". The connection between the speedometer and transmission may sound correct but the "limp home" mode part isn't happening.

Want to get a better understanding of the possible problems before spending more than $800 on parts alone .

I don't understand why I need both a new circuit board and a speedometer? Can this type of problem be resolved with nothing other than a new circuit board or do I need both?

Thanks for your help.

Hello everyone, my name is Ralph, and I am happy to have found this site. Not a bad place to share information about Volvos. Recently, I purchased a 1988 760GLE. The Vehicle's body is in excellent condition. The lights look brand new, its never been in an accident, and has 165000 miles. The vehicle interior is leather and has an A/C that blows unbelievably cold! The only problems I am having though is the vehicle as it stumbles on acceleration, and if anyone knows about this problem, please let me know how to fix it. I'm thinking its the External Fuel Pump. The next major problem is that the sunroof is not working properly, and the car just needs new shocks. Other than this, the Transmission is good, and engine runs very well. A great looking car, with all the lights and electrical features working perfectly. Since I am a Realtor, this vehicle is one that will serve well as I drive around my clients. I will be posting pictures of this vehicle very soon. If anyone else owns a 760 GLE, please contact me so we can share stories on this magnificent looking vehicle!! Take good care. RealtyRalph.

Hey guys! New to the forum, but long time Volvo owner. I've got a problem with my 1986 740GLE. I keep reading that the Idle Air Control Valve is supposed to have 12volt power on the middle wire of the 3-wire connector, but when I run a test light on my car, I see 12volts at both outside terminals. This is causing my control valve to not work at all. I've bypassed the problem by jumping the terminals and forcing the valve closed and adjusting the idle at the throttle body. Any ideas what could be causing this?

The engine is a B230F fuel injected non turbo.

Thanks!

Mark

Hi
Just picked up a 740 wagon. Car has no power steering. Guy i bought it from said the pump was bad so i got a good deal on it. Put fluil in it and it leaked out thru the metal return lines on the rack. Ok replacing the rack is no big deal. Only thing is I guess I have figured out there were a couple different typoe of steering racks used on these cars. One of them being a ZF unit. Not sure of the other one. How do I tell which rack I have. Hate to buy a new one and have it not be right. Its a 1989 740 GL wagon. with a b230f engine.
Thanks

I have an '89 760, was running, but I left the door open and ran the battery down. I hooked up a charger, let it sit for a while, but got impatient and tried to crank it with the charger hooked up. It cranked, briefly, slowly, then stopped, so I let it sit all day with the charger on it.

Now it's fully charged, but won't do anything. No crank, no click, nothing. So...what did I burn up? Is there a starter relay somewhere?

Thanks

What's your opinion of turbo versus non-turbo? Why?

I am most concerned with reliability and maintenance cost. But, of course power to take a trip matters also.

And, are there certain years/model that are better?

Thanks

Hi. I purchased a nice 1991 Volvo 740 Auto Wagon a few weeks ago. I also owned a 1987 240 for 2 years. Well the wagon is not turning over.
I was driving home from a friends and all the sudden the car started losing power- I was able to get home but it was running weak. As I went home, warning lights illuminated one by one! First srs then abs and then another. Limped it home. Well I have tried starting it the past week with no luck. The battery is fine, I checked /cleaned the connections, the alternator is new. The fuel pumps are working, I checked the fuses. The starter is clicking sometimes, when I put the key into the accessory position everything like the door chimes, headlights and dash lights function normal. When I try and crank it over I hear the fuel pumps, sometimes the starter clicks. Does this sound like am ignition switch? On a side note I see that a yellow inline 30Amp buss fuse coming off the battery is disconnected but is this stereo amp related? Thanks for any replies I get.

We used the rear hatch and the brake and fog lights just stopped working. I have only had the car for 2 weeks. Help

Hi everyone,

This is my first post.

I am considering a Volvo 740 purchase. Basically I am in need of a reliable, roomy, and inexpensive vehicle. Volvos seem ideal.

The Volvo I am considering:
1990 740 GL.
Mileage is 110K.
AC works.
Vehicle looks nice (in photos anyway).
Newer tires.
Seller claims no fluid leaks.
Timing belt and some other services performed (see CarFax below).
There are no service records other than the CarFax.

Asking price is $2,500. It's being sold by an independent dealer who specializes in Volvos, Suburus, and Mercedes.

Here is a CarFax showing the mileage, that it's a California car, and that certain services were performed.

http://www.carfax.com/viewEmailReport.do?a...Si3&language=EN



What are your thoughts? Price? What should I check if I go look?

Thanks

If you need any guidance on replacing those deteriorating engine wire harnesses in your car, I have spent some time on-line and have some good links to answers/parts or whatever.
It can be frustrating but rest assured... Others have done this and it can be done for under $150.00 if your lucky on eBay, and have a good sense in the engine compartment, of where things go. I think masking tape is a good tagging method, and indelible marker on the engine parts, I used a alphabet system to remember how to line things up. The old harness might have a few little pieces you can use over again-- I had to convert my 1985 Harness I bought on Ebay for 130.00, I got some help from a (generous knowledge giving CoolDude!) and his website--I wont mention names. But just everyone in this position- take it from me! Don't junk your whole car if an engine wiring harness is all that it needs! Trust me! My car ran excellent for years that I've owned it, and I broke down a couple times and looked in the engine-bay and saw damn those are CRUSTY wires, and there all stripped and forming logistically ONE wire. That cant be good!
I thought damn that will be expensive to fix!
It wasn't...
I started to understand more after reading some online material! The part should be no more than $400 max,
And remember to label everything as you go!!!
if you have a question just ask! Forums like this are also good for help.

Does anyone know how to create a cold air intake for my 1986 volvo 740, are there any guides/info or things I can get that are cheap for this? And is this a worth while idea/venture? Or should I "swiss chese" my air box that is in place now? Does anyone have any suggestions? Any pictures or instructions would be very helpful, thank you for taking the time to read my post.

Hi Guys,
I would like to solicit your opinions on the following: -

I run a D24T 740 Estate and here in the UK we can only buy Ultra Low Sulphur diesel (ULS), our Government in the near future are going to introduce a Bio diesel element to this fuel. ( 5% Bio to Normal ULS)
I have read from a Land Rover Discovery Forum this fuel will attack pump seals, do damage to injectors etc, albeit not immediately but will happen.
Their remedy is to add 100mls of 2 stroke oil (Motorcycle Oil) per 30 Liters diesel.
I have applied this to my Discovery also to my D24T.
The results are quite startling - easier starting, quieter running there appears to be more power available also. Incidentally seems to be a lot less smoke as well.
There has been no pump adjustment.
However as this 'development' is newish I wonder what the long term effects could be.
Obliged for your views.
Thanks.

I have a no start condition on my 1991 740 wagon and noticed the yellow inline 30a fuse off of the positive battery terminal corroded apart. The small red wire is disjoined. Anyone know what this does?

Hi I am looking for a 1986 Volvo 740gle service manual to download??

1992 740 non turbo. Rex Regina system. I have replaced Air filter, fuel filter fuel pump relay. and battery. This problem is really inconsistent. Some days it is hardly there, other days the car is virtually undriveable.

I have tried to find every ground and loosen and tighten them up and taken apart every connector and cleaned every connection with de-oxit. The best it ever ran was right after I had changed the fuel filter and in fact I thought I had fixed it but half an hour later it was acting up again. Now of course the battery was disconnected at that time so the ECU may have been affected as well. If I can get it above 3000 Rpm its great.

At its worst I have to feather the throttle as I pull away from a light, much to the frustration of me and those behind me. If I push the gas pedal down too far or too fast the engine bogs like it is not getting any fuel. Sometimes it runs PERFECT for the first 30seconds of driving and then deteriorates. Generally speaking It runs good for 30 odd seconds then runs bad for a two or three minutes then runs mostly OK. On long hightway runs it starts to run terrible after 2 to 3 hours except at idle or WOT.

There is no black smoke

It never actually stalls out although every once in a while the idle dips to almost stall but it always recovers.

The code reader never shows any faults on the ignition side. The F/I code was showing an problem with the IAC valve. Which I took apart and cleaned and now that seem to be fine.

I've run through all three phases of the OBD diagnostics and everything seems to check out.

Before I changed the fuel filter, It was hard to start on the morning. But I fixed the IAC at the same time so I don't know if the fixed IAC or the new fuel filter obviated that problem.

Apart from this the care is super clean and tight so I would really like to nail this down.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated

TPS?
ECU?
MAP?
Air Temp Sensor?
Coolant Temp Sensor?
fifth dimension gremlins?

B

I have a 1991 with 340,000 kms on it. I still can not figure out the stalling problems
which are intermittent and driving me crazy. My mechanic has replaced the coil, the
spark plugs and the crank shaft sensor. Also the fuel filter has been changed along
with the fuel pump relay. Oh and the distributor cap was also changed.


I was recently on the highway going around 110kms and felt the car all of a sudden
lose power. I pulled over and let it sit a bit. I tried it several times and the engine would
start but would not keep going. I finally got it started again and it ran for about half
a mile and stalled again. I finally had to get it towed as it finally would not start anymore.
This could be that I finally drained the battery after so many tries. Well I was told it
may be the throttle bottle; but who knows. I am frustrated with all this intermittent
stalling.
Totally frustrated and looking for some answers

Hello all, sorry about two problems already, but they are the most annoying.
Basically I have this rattling sound in my front right wheel.
It happened when I went over bumps or had a slight turn on fast speeds, all the sudden id get this metallic rattling drum sound on my right wheel.
I took a peek under and realized that the Sway Bar link has all its brushings worn off / missing. I ordered a sway bar link kit and replaced it.
It is now better, but the problem remains, only half as much -
I only get all the symptoms when my wheel is slightly left of center.
For example, if I am riding around my neighborhood, and I purposefully go over a bump or pithole with my wheel slightly left, I get that clattering sound. If I go with wheel slightly right, I only hear the standard suspension noise, and it feels very fluid.
When on the freeway, if I bear left, I get the drumming, if I am bearing right It is fine.
The link kit is fine, so what can it be?
Why only when I go a bit left?
Thanks all!!

I have a really ignorant question. I just bought the 760 and I am still trying to learn it. Meanwhile, when driving down the road, car simply "dies". This is evidenced by the instrument panel lighting up. I can allow the car to sit for as few as 10 seconds, and for as long as 2 minutes, and it will start and allow me to continue driving, until it does this again. After reading several sites, I would like to replace the fuel pump relay. Problem is, I can't find out where it is (toldya I was new). Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks

Im puting in an aftermarket stereo with USB and Mp3 , I did all 4 door speakers, now for the hard part.................I assume there is a power amp by the stearing column with all the speaker wires, and need to bypass it to run to my new Kenwood head unit.....this is why there is a black round DIN connector all in one wire on the back of the stock head unit i assume...which I need to get rid of.

But I looked under the dash and took out the cover by the stearing column and did not see this factory amp that should be there somewhere......
I have a serious clostrophobia problem and could not continue to look for this stock amp to get rid of.......

So is there an easier way to find or a MORE SPECIFIC EXACT LOCATION that Volvo MOUNTED this amp at the Factory, does anyone here have Experience to tell me where Exactly and what it looks like....? And can I get the wires for speakers out of it and attach my jumper wires to them easily for my New Head Unit ?

Please help me..............

This car is like factory new and has never been touched ( hurt )
the stock radio works fine but is way behind the times........my new head unit has CD player and USB imput on the front as well as a MP3 imput on front, so needless to say I need to be very careful and do a nice clean job at wiring up new unit....

Hello,

I've got a '91 740 station wagon with 165K miles. I've recently replaced the fuel pump relay when it failed to start. It has been running fine since, UNTIL a few weeks ago.

Now, intermittently, after driving a while, when I come to a stop, the engine may die. It may take 10 or 15 minutes to start again. I need to advance the throttle to keep in running when it restarts for a while. Then it goes back to running normal. Sometimes when I'm trying to restart it, it sounds like the timing is all screwed up, maybe as if some cylinders are firing before they should?

I've replaced the air-mass meter already.

I've read about the position sensor maybe being a problem and/or the ECU. Where are these located?

Any ideas would be appreciated.


Thanks.

-DFP

Hi Everyone,
I have a 90 740 GL (rex ignition) with roughly 220K miles. Recently I have been having some starting problems. The starter sounds like it is turning over at a normal pace but just failing to start the engine. In my attempt to diagnose the problem I first verified that I had gas, next check the battery voltage (12.5v), inspected and replaced the plugs (which looked normal), replaced the plug wires as I was unable to get a resistance reading on two of the wires. Using the diagnostic connector I was able to pull out the code 3-2-1 for the fuel injection which appears to be to a missing signal to/from the cold start valve the result of a faulty radio suppression relay. So my question is were is this relay and is there a way to test it. If that is not the problem, then what else should I be looking for. I would assume a clogged fuel filter or faulty fuel pump. I appreciate any help.

I'm working on a friends '90 760. The antenna wouldn't go down, so we got a new one, tried to follow horrible instructions, and got close. It worked great, exactly twice. We took the whole thing apart, did it all again, and it worked great...exactly twice.

Now it goes all the way up, but only retracts to a height of about 7 inches. Any thoughts?

I have a manual 87 740 Turbo wagon with 111k miles. My problem is that after engaging the OD, it wont come back out. Ive tried the button, and Ive tried downshifting(both of which used to work) I have to come to a stop, very carefully put it in reverse, and then pop the clutch. This results in a thud, which I assume is the OD being kicked out. Obviously, thuds are not good. Ive talked to several Volvo friends, and none have had this problem. Could this be the relay? One friend said I could rig up a manual disengage switch using one of the empty rocker switch spots next to the steering wheel. Anyone ever done/heard of this? Any thoughts would b