Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I am new to Volvo world; I just purchased this car about 2 months ago. Volvos are the best cars specially the old once.

Any way, my problem started when I ran out of gas, I put gas in it, and it did not start. I found the problem (A Burned fuel pump) and I made sure I only have ONE - ONLY ONE (In Tank ONLY) fuel pump.
I got the fuel pump + Filter screen and I put it in (from the trunk) I started it, it worked 100% perfect .

I used it for about 5 days. Then hesitation troubles started and i feel like the engine chokes. When I just pressed on the gas pedal like normal it hesitates. Engine won't start easily. You can smell gas every where.
A mechanic checked it and he asked me to change the fuel filter, so I did but the problem did not go away, still there, then he told me to check if the filter screen maybe fell from the pump in the tank and he told me that it would also cause this. I took off the fuel pump again just to check, and I found everything in its right place.

I still suffer from this, because the car drive slowly before it kicks in. Also I experience this where I would have to back off of the gas pedal in order for it to keep going very slowly in order for it to increase its speed and if i did it fast it NOT step by step, it felt that it chocks and I have to back off the gas pedal.

Your help would be appreciated,

Thank you,

Hi all

I'm breaking a my low mileage 740 Saloon after some t$$t crashed into the back of me. I settled outside of the insurance so I could keep the car and use it for spares. I have just bought another Volvo 740 wagon, so need to know what bits I should take off so I can keep my other Volvo's on the road? What bits are most likely to fail aside from all the usual stuff like side mirrors headlights etc

Many thanks

I was wondering how many kilometers i can travel on one tank of gas. My gas gauge isnt working and i have to track how many kilometers i drive on the odometer. It is rather annoying not to know how long i can go before refilling my tank. As stated my car is a 1986 volvo 740 gle, not a turbo, not a stationwagon. Thanks! Also, if this information is too vague, the size of the gas tank in litres would help as well. Thank you!

The b230k is the 2.3 pierberg carburettor engine. I have been told that the the this type of pierberg carburettor fitted on the early 740's are not too long lasting. During the last tune for the carburettor in 2007 the mechanic told us that the carb didn't have too many miles left in it before it wears out all together. At the time the car had done 107,000 miles, now it has 123,000 miles and still going well.

Who else here has a 740 b230k pierberg carb engine set up and how many miles do you have on it.

Although there is someone I know of who apparently had 210,000 miles on one.

I have a 1990 740 turbo intercooler B230FT and on my way to work the timing belt stripped some teeth from the belt and died on me. I've been reading other topics on this site and found some answers, but I'm still confused. If I change my belt will my car run or are my valves shot? Is it a waste of 20 BUCKS?

Hey guys,

I'm trying to sell my wife's 1989 760 GLE in Australia. It's been in her family all its life, and has always had an intermittent engine cut out - driving along, happy as larry, then the engine randomly turns off. So you coast to the side of the road, and try turn it over, and it won't start for x minutes (x being any number between 1 and 10).

sometimes it does it twice in an hour, sometimes it won't happen for 12 months.

ANYWAY, my dad has taken it to his volvo dealer and they said "faulty fuel relay. $240 please".

I'm calling BS - I've checked the price online for the part ($25 ish), and i'm assuming it's either in the fuse box or somewhere easy to reach in the engine bay. But i wanted to ask an esteemed group of experts (yes, that's you!!!) before I tell dad to cancel his order with these guys (1x 2008 XC70 and 1x C30). They should be KISSING HIS FEET, not ripping him off!

Or is there something that could be referred to as a fuel relay that isn't actually the relay switch? Like a pre-pump or something? Also, the term 'fuel relay' may have been jumbled or had words removed between the Volvo guys telling dad, and dad telling me...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
-Sam

PS. Anyone want to buy a Volvo 760 in Melbourne, australia?? only $4000!

Hi all,

My left side tail light is not working. I've checked and tested the prongs and bulbs and it's not that. My right side now works. Both right and left brake lights work but just not the left tail light.

As well, when I put my high beams on, one high beam works and then the opposite side headlight switches off.

My side marker on the left has never worked could that cause the tail lights not to work?
Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Haanz

Hi All--

I'm new to this Forum--just bought a 740 Turbo Wagon for $1500 from a guy who is very conscientious about the Volvos he works on and sells--he's already replaced a few things for me for free after the sale (and the front windshield before the sale!) I think I basically got a very solid car, which I love, from a very honest person.

Here's the current problem, though. The car was sitting for several months while he worked on it, with almost no gas in it. I half-filled the tank with medium octane (all I could afford!) before I drove it forty miles home, and it ran like a dream--as it did when I test drove it at his place. Within the next week, I put some regular gas in it--$10/worth at a time. For a week or so now, it's been hard to start, riding rough when in the lowest gear (it's an automatic)--by rough, I mean sort of "chugging"--and sometimes stalling when idling.

Thinking first of fuel, I filled it with Premium when the tank was close to empty, and added a bottle of STP fuel-system cleaner--the high-end stuff. Since then I've driven it maybe 25 miles, and the symptoms have cleared up only a little. It's not stalling so much and is easier to start, but still chugs until it gets into the higher gears.

Might the problem resolve itself over time if I just keep driving it and keep giving it at least medium-octane gas? I know that Scott, the seller, checked all hoses and lines thoroughly, fixed an exhaust leak, changed oil and filter,etc. I've looked around under the hood and can't see anything leaking, broken, worn, etc.--the car's basically in fantastic shape, with an engine that he and another Volvo mechanic put in themselves.

Is there any kind of simple idle or fuel injection adjustment that might solve the problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have NO money left over now for repairs--have barely enough for gas!

I'm very glad that you guys are out there--it was reading the enthusiasm on this very Forum that convinced me to buy this wagon. (I've owned SAABs before, but never a Volvo.)

Thanks! Ladywolf

I have a buddy that is a mechanic and me and have been going back and forth about a 88 740 being interference or non interference motor. He gave me a timing belt book manual that says that pretty much all of volvo's motors are intereference and that in the event of a timing belt brake the pistons and what not will slam together causing you to need a new engine. Can someone settle this for me and let me know the models that are interference.

Does anybody know how to get the rear window lift motor out of a 88 760 4 door?? i have the door panel off, and have disconnected the electrical. i have taken out the 3 10 mm nuts that hold it in, but something is still holding it in place.....can anyone help????

Hello all,

Anyone got any pics of 760 executive and limo that they would like to share please?

Were these models available RHD and in the UK?

Cheers,

Lloyd

I have just patched two leaks on my 740 wagon. The first leak was coming through the fresh air intake panel on the driver's side. On the front seat passenger side, I had water coming in through the blower motor. I removed the cowel and resealed the snorkel piece that fits over the blower, as well as resealing the splash panel that sits over this snorkel -- everything is hopefully nicely re-caulked. The water seemed to be causing a "groaning" noise that the blower made. I hope that the leak was fixed in time to salvage the blower motor. It seems to be running better already. HOWEVER, when I turn on the blower, it shorts out fuse #9 which is the turn light relay and the power window relay. I'm hoping that the blower motor just has some residual water in it which is somehow causing the short. Or, perhaps the big rain leaked through the blower motor area and breached other wiring located on the passenger side. If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate the input.

Hello there, the 740 is my first car and it has been very reliable and i am surprisingly happy with it, i say that because i didnt think id like volvo being as i was raised around american cars. but i do have some problems with it and heres the list, btw as the topic says i have a 1988 Volvo 740 GLE.

Major Problems:

1. Heavy steering wheel/general vibration when applying the brakes moderately at higher speeds, pushing all the way down usually lessens the problem. I believe it to be the bushings for my steering, although i havent had the brakes replaced since i got it but the brake pads are fine.

2. Just recently i have heard "knocking" on what seems to be in the general direction of the right front tire while im turning right slightly. I believe this may be my bushings getting worse than they already are or something.

3. My grandpa told me i need to replace the driveshaft centersupport assembly(bearings etc.) how would replacing this benefit my car? what are signs of it being shot?

4. My hatch seems to be vibrating very bad especially on bumpy roads and it gets to be rather loud and annoying. The hatch was loose(didnt shut all the way) untill recently(idk how it fixed itself) but the problem is still there. could it be the pins or the plastic thats against the door shaking? possibly the spare tire and tools shaking around? something i noticed about this was that when it starts shaking really loud when i look into my rear view mirror i can see the back seats shaking but i cant duplicate the noise or problem by moving them around myself.

Minor Problems:

1. Passenger window doesnt roll up correctly, theres a small gap allowing air into the car, is there anyway to adjust the way to goes up and down? I have power windows of course.

2. Driver side door doesnt want to open sometimes, its usually rare though. I shouldve already but i havent oiled the latch at all, will this help?


Thanks to anyone that can help me and give me any tips. comments/questions welcomed.

P.S I am thinking about getting all new struts/shocks/tires/brakes and an alignment for my car. i estimated that this will cost 500-700$ if someone can tell me if im in the general price range that would be great.

Hi everybody!

So a couple of weeks ago, for a paltry sum, my wife and I purchased my/"our" dream car - a 1988 740 Turbo Intercooler stationwagon. For all its wear and tear, it is still an incredible and timeless car.

We've already had a number of things done on it - seals, belts, brakes, control arm bushings, etc., the headliner is next on our list.

I used the power locks for the first time the other day and now I can't get the trunk open. Our key does not seem to work in the trunk lock, but when I squeeze the handle, it goes all the way back like it would if it was unlocked, but nothing happens. We can still open it from inside.

Do I just need to procure a separate trunk key? Wouldn't the power locks unlock it, just as they locked it? Or is there a little wire in there that may be broken? Any advice or help is much appreciated, thanks!

Hello all. I have a 1990 740 GLE with a charging problem. I replaced the battery, it went dead again., I replaced the Alternator, again the battery went dead. When I took the Alternator back to the parts store, they tested it and it was missing a little piece of metal that goes into the cylinder to make it turn, after they put it back in and tested it again, it worked fine. We came home, put it back on the car and low and behold a week later another battery died.. so we replaced the battery again thinking that it just drained one too many times.. well again the battery died. I took it to another parts store and had it checked out and they said that the battery is fully charged, but the alternator has no voltage at all. I took it to a friend to see if everything was hooked up right and all the grounds were ok.. he unhooked everything from the alternator except for the belt, started the car, and the meter still reads zero. He did however have trouble with the ground bolt going into the back of the alternator, said that that it is just turning and turning, he can't get the nut off, but he did get the grond wire off. Im stumped.. Please any help would be greatly appriciated...

Thanks for reading... Lori

HI, this is my first time writing here...could really use some advice. Recently I ran out of gas (surprise with the prices so high!) and since have replaced the in-tank fuel pump and fuel filter. The car ran okay for about 20 miles, and now won't turn over. I don't smell any gas, so I think it may be not getting gas to the injectors. I checked the fuel pump relay, and it is fine. Does this year and model (740 GL non turbo) have two fuel pumps? An in-tank and an in-line? If so, where is the inline one located, and could it possibly be the fuel pressure regulator? Please help. I'm at the end of my rope and bank account!!! Also, I just replaced the distributor, rotor, and wires, so I know it's getting spark.

Hi everyone. I live in Canada. My wife own's a great silver 1989 740 wagon with almost 400k under the hood, but still running like a top. The problem is that she came home from work and the rear driver side door is stuck in lock mode ( so I can't open the door) and the power window would go down, but not up, so now the window is stuck open and no way of opening the door to open the panel to see if any wires are loose or needs some WD-40 like I read on an earlier post.. any help would be appreciated before I take her to the $$$mechanic.. Thanks

Hi folks: I've searched the forum for parking brake on this model but don't find much. What I"m looking for is where does the park brake cable go? Both rears? Right (pass) side only? Left? My buddy has one that appears to be stuck and we're going to attack it but need to know which wheel to go after. Thanks for the help.

My 1991 740 runs great. No smoke, idles great, low miles, ect... reciently though, I lost boost. I dont hear the turbine making its normal sound. Everything else seems fine. To fix the problem I put in a K&N filter, new sparkplugs, fuel system cleaner... what next??? PLEASE HELP!!!

I have a problem with my 89' 740 betone two door. Recently I have had problems with the battery and after working on my alternator as well as getttin a new battery I still have a problem with keeping the battery charge. The alternator checked out in fine condition, I replaced the rubber bushlings becasue they were dry cracked and also tightened the belt. After doing this work battery, the car drove fine for a week and then the battery began draining again.

before i I broke down the gass ingection first shut down and then the power breaks and so on.

If any one can give me advice on how to tackle this problem I would greatly appreciate the help. I would rather not bring it to a garage. I am a poor college student with an intent to figure out this car.

thank you

I just got a new alarm auto start kit and cant seem to get it done right. The company I purchased it from sent some paperwork which I followed however I still have a couple problems. First is the auto lock. I was given an asperator to install on the drivers door but it already has one. I assume I dont need to install it, or maybe remove the stock one and install the new one. I also cant find the factory door lock module. Can anyone help?

I just bought a 1992 940 turbo from an impound lot and I am having to go through the process to register it as a salvage title vehicle. My first hurdle is that the brake lights do not work. I have checked the fuse, bulbs and the switch behind the pedal... all is good. I Googled the problem and got back a couple of hits with the same situation and the response was a short/break in the wiring. Before I go through the tedious task of tracing the wiring, I was curious if anyone new of a connection at the shifter that might possibly be disconnected so that the tow company could tow or otherwise roll/move the vehicle. The reason I ask is because the shifter will shift into gear when the car is off and a small part of the trim panel aroung the shiftr looks like it may have been taken apart recently and I read in the mechanics manual that the brake light fuse and the shift control fuse are together on one. Any feedback would be very grateful....

Hello people, I am having trouble with the low beams of my 1991 740.I changed the bulbs and the dimmer switch and they still dont work.My high beams work fine can anyone help me out.and I checked all the fuses they are fine also please someone help me out.Thanks

I had the in-tank fuel pump on my Volvo yesterday and I need to find out something. Before the car broke down, it was running fine to a point. What I mean to say is that I would have to back off of the gas pedal when the car got to about 2-2.5 RPMs for it to kick into gear.

Now that the in-tank pump has been replaced (yesterday) we are having hesitation troubles. It takes about 5 or more minutes just to really move. We are just jerking along. That tends to make those behind you extremely mad. I am also hearing knocking from behind the driver's seat area but that was only for a short period of time. It did eventually stop.

My son was the first one to take the car out yesterday and he mentioned the hesitation but when I finally took the car out, I had a little hesitation but then the car seemed to drive like it should. Actually it went into gear alot quicker without me having to back off the gas pedal. The car was pulling more RPMs than it did before it broke down.

Now, when the mechanic changed my pump, there was a "peanut shaped" metal piece on the fuel pump holder and the mechanic took that off since he didn't know what that was for and just put the rubber like tube that came with the pump in it's place. What is that "peanut shaped" metal piece and what is it there for? Did the mechanic make a mistake in replacing that with the hose? There also was two round rubber seals or gaskets, I would say about 4" in diameter which was left in the box by the mechanic as well.

Please, oh please, someone, tell me what the deal is here.

Thanks

A few months ago I added some reflective strips to the bumpers, now a lot of it has become bitty, so now it looks pretty untidy and want to get rid of them, I've tried to just peel them off but they won't have any of it, how should I go about removing them without having to use some kind of tool and damaging the bumper?

I have a new(to me) 89 740 turbo wagon... I just had the heater core replaced and it runs great, but at night I have no lights in the gauge cluster... I dont think it is the bulbs, but I have not taken out the cluster yet. My uncle thinks it is the dimmer rheostat. Also I have lots of radio static and a saggy headliner like everyone else...ha ha ha Thanks for any help!!

HELP! New alternator, new battery, new battery terminals.. and for some reason the battery light still comes on when the car is turned off.. so we take off the negative battery terminal when the car is not in use.. ok.. well the battery still doesn't charge! PLEASE HELP!! Im a total novice and dont have the money to take it to a shop...

Hello everyone, I had a mechanic here earlier and he replaced the in-tank fuel pump for my car. When we went to an auto parts store, they said they had 2 different kinds, a high pressure pump and a low pressure pump. We had the original pump with us so we tried the high pressure pump first since it was the same size as the original in height but it was too fat to fit into the housing (seating). Then we looked at the low pressure fuel pump which was alot smaller in size but it did fit into the pump housing.

After installing this pump and trying to start the car, it kept trying to turn over and start and then it would quickly turn right back off. Everyone I called said they could not tell us the differenece between the two versions, especially since nothing was written at all on the original pump.

The mechanic is going to get his fuel pressure guage and test it and then possibly buy another fuel pump for under the hood which he would splice into and make fit and he said that that would give my in-tank pump a little more fuel pressure.

Does anyone have any comments or suggestions that would be helpful?

I need my baby running today as I have been footing it for well over a month.

Thanks

Hello All!

I am having trouble with my power seat in my 760 Turbo Wagon. As a single Mom, I'm not too mechanically inclined....

Is there a fuse to replace if the electrical isn't working? I know where the main fuse box is located behind the ash tray, but I can't seem to find a listing for the seat.

Any suggestions, ideas?

Many thanks

I figure these questions have already been asked, and I'm going to get "use the search"!! replies but hey, I'm a newbie.

I am planning a v8 swap. How strong is the IRS in a 760? Is the diff(center section) the same as the one in a 740? (1030, 1031, Dana 30) How much torque can the irs diff/axles handle?

I would prefer the ride quality and handling of a 760, but maybe the solid diff of a 740 would be stronger for the torque of a v8 (around 400 ft/lbs).

Regards,
Marty

Hey Guys

well it seams my no start issue mentioned earlier is due to a BADLY damaged engine wiring loom well beyond repair

what im wanting to know is are there any junkyards in the states or whereevcer where you guys could get one on the cheap and ill buy it off you they want too much for them here i dont want a shmicko one it can be slightly damaged but not as bad as this there was no insulation on the wires at all and consquently it keeps blowing fuse number 1 which is fuel pump

what i want is the loom from the 2 plugs at the driver side suspension turret allong the fire wall and down to like the knock sensor the alternator the injectors etc etc


Can you help

Regards

Dale.

Hey Guys,

i Have a 1986 740 GL that i bought for $200 recently

it was driven by backpackers here and it overheated and now there appears to be oil in the water

the guy i bought it off suspects it to either have a blown head gasket or a Blowing head gasket i guess what im asking is since its oil in the water and not water in the oil is there any tempory fixes to beable to use the car as a daily driver until i find a new engine top put in it.

also when starting the vehicle it takes ALOT of cranking to finally get it to start ittl crack and crack and crank till the battery is neally flat until all of the sudden vroom we have liftoff

any ideas there also? could it be compression loss due to the head gasket?

people tell me there are some water additives you can add to seal a blowing head gasket is that a option i have its just i havent been sucessful in finding a engine yet and the car still has 2 months of rego left and i wanna use it round town i dun wanna waste the rego.

regards

Dale.

I have a problem with my 89' 740 betone two door. Recently I have had problems with the battery and after working on my alternator as well as getttin a new battery I still have a problem with keeping the battery charge. The alternator checked out in fine condition, I replaced the rubber bushlings becasue they were dry cracked and also tightened the belt. After doing this work battery, the car drove fine for a week and then the battery began draining again.

before i I broke down the gass ingection first shut down and then the power breaks and so on.

If any one can give me advice on how to tackle this problem I would greatly appreciate the help. I would rather not bring it to a garage. I am a poor college student with an intent to figure out this car.

thank you

Yo, im new to the volvo world, but anyways I ran outta gas the other day with my car, an after I put gas in it it wont start. I changed out the rear fuel pump with a new one, an when I turn the key it trys to start once. Im not gettin any power to the frame mounted pump...which relay is the fuel pump relay exactly, I know where theyre all at, but which