Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

During a trip back from a July 4th weekend at the beach, a friend of mine reclined the passenger seat to take a nap; when he awoke and began raising the seatback, he noticed that only the right side of the seat was moving up and the seat began to twist and face the driver's side of the car.

It appears that the motor on the left side of the seatback is dead. Every other powered seat function works fine. Is there a manual override anywhere? My driver's seat was wacky when I purchased the car 6 years ago... it kept moving by itself due to a faulty switch contact. I wound up prying the contacts out with a screwdriver to lock my seat in a comfortable spot for myself.

I'd like to fix both seats considering I'm selling the car in about a month (reluctantly) and do not want to include in the fine print, "you must be under 5'4" to fit into the driver's seat and be able to lay down to fit into the passenger seat."

Thanks!

Just like to say for some reason I got it in my head that it was time to look into a newer car so what would one do after driving a 1989 740GL for 9 years take the step to an 850, seems like a sort of natural progression, Wrong !!!!!, I got rid of my 740 for an 850 and it took about a week to realize i'd made a big mistake, horrible, at least after my 740. I wanted my old car back but it was sold on, I must say I did buy an 850 automatic and that was another boo boo, didn't like the automatic, didn't do what I wanted it to do. I've got a 940 now which is better but still not the same as my old 740. So before you consider selling your 740 for an 850 see if you can try it out for a week or so .

Please forgive me for I am car illiterate.

Could someone give me step by step instructions on how to get the console off so I can replace the bulb for the gear shifter letters.

Thank You,

boopie

ok...so it appears Blarf's site maybe down or something (getting 503 error). does anyone have a electronic copy of the green book they can send me or direct me to online...if not...does anyone have a green book the would be willing to look up some information for me?

many thanks in advance!

I had a little run with a poll while parking, denting the rightside of my car justbhind the bumper (1992 Volvo 740 turbo) well ever sense then my car makes this really really really high pitched noise when the turbo kicks in, and accelerates like crap. I replaced some hosing that looked to be in poor condition, but it hasn't helped. Any one know what exactly might be causing the sound? How to locate the sound? or have any other idea/tips?

Hello All,

I am new to this forum today, i have owned my 740 for 10 years now, the old girl as never let me down.

Currently I am getting a rumbling noise from the prop shaft area, does anybody have any advice whether it is the prop itself or the coupling ? Is there a way to test the prop ? When I accelerate hard on the auto box the noise goes !

Any advice welcome.

Thanks
John...
Volvo 740GL, Auto, 1990 Saloon.

Hi everyone - Last July, I bought a 1991 740 and I had the a/c compressor replaced because I live in Florida and a/c is crucial. It worked well throughout the Fall and Spring. A few weeks ago though, it started doing this strange thing where it would run absolutely hot/warm air and then again, the next time I used it, it would be cold again. Then days and days of no a/c to one day get in and have great ice cold air. ?!?!

Now, it switches between being an a/c and a heater several times throughout a drive.
I had the guy who actually replaced the whole thing take a look at it and he swears that it isnt his work or equipment both of which, according to him, are in perfect condition.

So what is it? I am literally home bound these days because of this because on top of it being a florida summer - I have a bun in the oven and its just too too uncomfortable!!

Of course, I plan on taking it in but I wanted to have some advanced knowledge from the smart people in here, so that I am not completely ignorant when I go to the repair shop. Or of course, if I just might have to say a special prayer or kick a tire or something to get it going ;-)

Thanks in advance!!

thinking of buying 760 gle v6 1988, ABS light on permanently, any advice, as will need to get through MOT after purchase.
thanks
Brian

Does anybody know where I can get performance parts and clear turn signals for a 1990 Volvo 740

As I was driving my son to school this morning my speedo broke. There it was sitting at 35 mph then just dropped to 0. Does anyone know what is wrong with it or how to fix it? Thanks!

'90 b280, 175kmi

it acts fine when cold, after it gets good and warmed up it seems like it's missing or not getting the fuel it needs under load, either at takeoff or trying to pass. it's also given me a fit once or twice trying to start(once it's warmed up), but not always. i'd changed the fuel filter, cleaned and checked the mass air, cleaned the points, checked the rotor for play...i've read many posts and am starting to get lost with all the things that may cause the symptoms i'm having. any one thing that i should start with? ignition amp, coil, knock sensors etc, etc....how can i troubleshoot to rule out things that aren't the problem. i'd as soon not spend more than i need to(of course).


cheers

So i am going to be getting a 86 740 turbo, my question is, is there anything i can do to increse power? Do they make a front mount intercooler for it? Whats a good BOV with a cool sound? AND will an aftermarket exaughst help at all?

i have a volvo 760 turbo its in great condition..but i hate my front and abck bumpers...how there plastic and have like a spring? is there any other volvo bumper i can put on? i was lookin for body kits for my volvo and they dont have any.if anyone knoes any sites or has some for sale please lemme kno..



thanks alot

* Fuel from code results


1-2-1 MAS this is after I pulled it with the engine running, it reset fine after clearing codes
3-1-1 Speedometer signal What effect will this have?? Speedo does seem to stick, but I thought it was a gear


* Ignition test code results

1-4-4 Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module WHAT IS LH and EZK
2-3-4 Faulty wiring or TPS; TPS adjusted incorrectly

* Cleared all codes and made some adjustments.


* Then ran a full mode 2 test with the following results; I did not get a RPM test code, I did not get compressor OK code , and I did not get Engine idle code.

not sure why I didn't get RPM test code, it tested fine when I pulled the coil and cranked.

* Then ran full mode 3 injection test with the following: Fuel injector tested ok, IAC tested OK (sounds like flapper being picked up and dropped), I did not get cold start valve test, I did not get a radio suppression relay (I assume it runs the pump momentarily), and I did not get fuel pump relay test (I assume it runs the pump momentarily) But the car starts and drives?


Anyone have any ideas. Car occasionally acts as if Engine lacks power; stalls; doesn't start or is jerky, I assumed a injector relay which was confirmed by the OBD code 1-4-4

I know this is long and discombobulated.

Just out of curiosity -- my otherwise great looking 89 looks like it's trashed because of the headliner. It has fallen down completely, and from talking to other owners, this seems to be a very common problem with 80s Volvos. Is that your experience?

I haven't gotten around to getting a new one installed (for somewhere around $350) yet but plan to do so when I take a day off.

Cheers,

Ed

I'm sure this is common, especially in the old tank-like volvos, but how do you fix the (really) annoying squeak/rattle/whistle the air vents make? Even when the heat/AC isn't on it rattles, and the only way to fix it is to bang on the dashboard. Can I pop off the air vent and see if any loose plastic/whatever is in the housing, or is it the fan itself and difficult to repair?
Any advice will help, thanks!

How difficult would it be to swap out an auto tranny to manual cause i hate auto i know they lose less boost but i dont think auto is much fun, so is it hard and how much does somthin like this run. Car is 86 740 turbo

G'day Y'all,

This is probably more relevant to Australian Volvo owners, I own/drive a 1988 740 sedan with B230F and AW71 4spd auto(260,000km). My car is fitted with the extended range twin fuel tank, which I can fill to about 85litres from almost dead empty.

In the normal course of events I manage to achieve 930km to a tank of fuel. This is a combination of express/highway and outer Urban driving. I'm not always driving for peak economy (yeah right), I have to get to work after all.

What has spurred me to pose the question is I have noticed a significant difference in range between ULP (normal for Oz 98 octane Unleaded) and E10 (10% ethanol mix) fuel. In Oz there is a discount of between 2.5/3 cents a litre on E10 over ULP to entice people to use it. ULP is currently A$1.60 per litre in Oz.

My car only managed to achieve 825km on E10, which is virtually 100km short! Now aside from the other problems associated with the use of ethanol blended fuel, the "discount" would appear to be not of good value. Now my previous car (Ford EA Falcon SW 3.9l 5spd) had similar results in that E10 didn't provide the "expected" range from a tank full of fuel.

So I guess my question for everyone is,"What has been your experience in comparing the performance/economy of E10 and ULP?"

Hi! My first post here...

I've got a 1992 740 Turbo Wagon. I really like it, but I'd love to do something to make passengers stop joking about the lack of cup holders... preferably something that does not involve kicking them out of a moving car or tieing them up in the tailgate with ducttape over their mouths...

...That and I'd find it rather handy myself if I did have them. I've seen a few aftermarket options and they all look flimsy and generally obnoxious in intended location.

I have found someone who is trying to sell an armrest/four can cup holder that doubles as the lid over the storage container between the front seats. It's an oem one from volvo, but it's only listed as being for the 850 series, 1993-1997. It looks very similar to another oen I saw which is advertised as being for the 740, but I'd really like this one to work as it's color would match the interior of my car better and I can probably clean it up some.

Would it fit properly in my 740?

I was recently given a '89 740 turbo wagon and I also inherited its 'hot start' problem. If the car sits in the sun with 80+ degree ambient temperature, it will not start. Nor will it start after it has been driven for any length of time without sitting for an hour in a cool place. However, the most unusual piece of this puzzle is that it will start with a jump start from another vehicle, no matter what the temperature. I know that my radiator/inter-cooler cooling fan has seized and needs to be replaced and my instrument cluster temperature gauge not longer registers, I believe because it needs its engine temperature switch replaced. Otherwise the car runs and starts perfectly. The battery is new as is the radio suppression relay, main fuel pump relay and both the in the tank and booster fuel pumps. I am currently at a loss. Thanks!

So what do you all think? Am I nuts, or does this look like it has promise? (Or both.)

I've been looking for a decent used car to replace my aging and increasingly decrepit Subie wagon (bought new, but time to retire it). The Volvo belongs to a colleague who just bought a new car for his family. They let me take it on a 375 mile test drive (small community; trust runs deep). It ran and drove beautifully-- I loved driving it. It has just the right amount of power to suit me. MPG isn't as good as my old Subie, but pretty good for such a heavy car.

Body looks good, interior is clean and in good shape, no serious wear though the leather could use conditioning. It has sheepskin on the front seats. Car has less than 139,000 miles, and has been well-maintained. I talked to the mechanic who took care of it, and the first words out of his mouth were "I wouldn't mind owning that car myself."

I am a little overwhelmed by all the bells and whistles and little bitty electrical motors that do everything. (My first car was a basic working pickup.) I'm ambivalent about the auto tranny, would prefer a manual, but the mechanic assures me that I'm unlikely to have problems with it. I was more reassured by the fact that he stockpiles good used trannies, and in worst case scenario, having to replace it would not be a catastrophic expense. The only concern is that the AC, which was charged last year, appears to have a small leak and needs recharging. It blows, but doesn't cool.

I have an appointment to have it checked out to make sure there aren't any unpleasant surprises lurking, and to have some minor issues looked at.

I welcome advice or suggestions (and warnings!) from you all. Your experience is my guide.

I should add that one of my daughters bought an old Volvo SW (I think a 240) years ago, put covers on the worn out seats, several years later painted it orange, and last year sent me a photo of 4 Volvos of various vintages owned by friends, all parked in front of her house. The orange one really stood out.

Neshobe

If this is the worng section please accept my apologies.

We currently have one of these great estates but it is getting to well used and has to go.
So - even though the kids are getting older and so camping trips are not so frequent - we want another.
The greatest trip = fully loaded including 4 people and all our gear from Gloucester to Tipperarry, round southern Ireland and back without any problems. Fantastic engineering.

If anyone has an Excellent /Good example available with service history (although well looked after it will be used daily), then please get in touch via ELGARPARADIGM@aol.com.

We are here in Gloucestershire.

Kind regards
Bernard

There have been no real problems with this car recently other than having the ignition replaced. But over the last two days, it has been dying randomly as I drive it. It happens when I'm stopped at lights and also while driving, though usually when I start to slow down. It doesn't sputter or give any indication that it is going to go out then it just stalls. A few times the car drops off, there's no power and the rpms shoot to zero and it will slow down, but it doesn't stall. If I press the gas, usually it kicks back on. Does anybody have any idea what might be the cause? Thanks.

does anyone know where i can buy myself a bodykit for my 740? i have looked everywhere and cant find nothing :/ please help me

So, I tried to turn on the overhead lights in my volvo and they wouldn't turn on and then I parked the car and the light popped off. I tried to put it back on but 1) it wouldn't stay on and 2) ...sparks flew out after I tried. Any ideas? (I know almost nothing about cars by the way...).

I have a 91 Volvo 740 and it jumped timing bad. I lined it to 10 degrees and the pulley marker lined up as it should be but it still wouldn't run. I think it had jumped so bad that the top marker is no longer accurate on the cam pulley. My question is - looking at the cams with valve cover off - do all 4 sets have to line up in a V shape to be close to the right cam timing? OR do you set it by the 1st set or second.. so on? I can only get one set at a time to show a V (10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position)

I had it running last night and it just seemed maybe 1 tooth retarded but it ran and the brakes had enough compression to work LOL! Went out there this morning and now it just grinds and nada again! I don't understand what happened in my sleep?

Also, my second question.... I am thinking that I need to replace the cam pulley bolt, do I need to pull the cams to use air ratchet on the bolt? IF so, does this require removing the distributor at the back end of the valvecover/cams?

Sorry so many questions, I'm a girl trying to figure out how to get my car running and learning as I go along.... FUN! So any help would be very much appreciated and any diagrams would be wonderful!

You can post here or email me at sabrina_cllhn@yahoo.com

Thank you sooooooo much!

Hello,
I have a 1989 740 turbo. it had been parked for a few years and got it back running, and i noticed there was a "klunging" noise coming from the driveshaft when i would shift into reverse. Then i was on my way to school and it sounded like i hit a milk crate and it was stuck under my car, then really loud clunking noise, so we took the driveshaft off and the boot was ripped up, so we had the driveshaft rebuilt, and installed it today. we went to test drive it and was still making the same noise. We noticed it look like and felt like the rear brakes were locked up. so we changed the rear back pads, and cleaning up the calipers, and wheel hub. After then we test drove it again and it is stil making the same noise. i put the car in neutral and rolled down a hill and it will not make the noise unless it is in drive. at slow speed under 5 mph it is fine. once you speed up, this hellaous noise comes from the rear end. we have checked the rear end oil along with the transmission fluid, all is fine. something else i noticed today was that the service light came on. sorry about the spelling errors, any help is greatly apperciated. also does anyone know how differetial backlash sounds?

justin

p.s.
some other work that has been done on the car recently.
new battery
fuel injectors
fuel pump x 2
fuel filter

My wagon has been sitting for a couple of years. It stopped after running fine, but I was just driving it to keep it running due to sitting long periods of time.

It may have stopped due to fuel or electrical issues, but I first need to clean fuel system before even trying to start it.

How do I access tank to drain it, put in clean gas, then drain again. I tried to siphon, but was unsuccessful, so I'll try to go through pump hole. Is there a trick to removing carpet in cargo area?

Any ideas?

thanks
Don

I have some electrical problems with my car.
I am in need of the wiring diagrams for a 1990 760 turbo wagon (model year '90, built in '89) to help me work things out. It has the LH2.4 ECM.

Any help would be much appreciated!
Till

I think this may be related to the power steering pump, but before I make the purchase of a new one it would be good to get some expert ideas. 1990 740gl, 305,000 - belts replaced about 5,000 miles ago. Now, upon starting there is a horrible ear-piercing screech from front, occasionally a less shrill noise when down-shifting. The noise disappears within a minute or two....
I tried to isolate it by starting the car and running to the front and best I can tell it's coming from the powersteering or water pump area (which was replaced about 70,000 miles ago).
Thanks to all for sharing their stories---always very enlightening and often times amusing!

Because you enventually replace every part in the car due to it failing. Particulary plastic parts like light lenses and such.

Its totally overhauled @ 300,000.

If anyone has recommendations for an honest and brilliant volvo mechanic in Miami - please please post !!

Thanks !

sarah

help , my 90 740 is having starting problems when warm and seems to be flooding Does anyone have experince with this problem.Would dirty injectors be the problem?thanks

Hi all,
How do I find out which ignition system I have on my '90 740GL? Also, are any of the electrical components (ECU, relays, etc.) compatible with that of a '92 740?
Thanks for any advice you could offer!

Hello

Can someone please explain to me what this is? How does it work? The reason I am asking what triggers it (whatever it is) is because before I got my gas gauge fixed I was guesstimating the gas in the tank. One day the car would not shift out of first gear while driving. In neutral I could give it gas and the engine would rev up but in drive it would buck and not shift out of first if I tried to give it gas.
I went to a gas station and filled it up and sure enough it took a full 60L of gas.

The reason I am asking is because I saw a post below linking to scan codes and a symptom was limp home mode, so can someone please explain what that is and what can trigger it? I am just really curious

Thank you

wwdragon

Greetings all, am having problems with my 1990 740T alarm. I just replaced the ignition switch (not the ignition lock or steering lock) but now the lights blink on and off whenever I open my car. In fact, the lights continue to blink even when I drive it. For some reason, turning on the headlights stops the blinking while driving. I think the P.O. sort of disconnected the aftermarket (?) alarm, but apparently my new ignition switch has resurrected some dormant connection. Ideally I'd like to just disconnect the alarm, since my car cost me all of $700. Is there an easy way to do this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.