Volvo 740 & 760 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I've had my '91 740 estate for about six weeks and have noticed that the tranny was a bit sluggish. I drained the tranny fluid and found it to be brown and very closely resembling motor oil in both consistancy and smell. This is not good. I drained the fluid as best I could and replaced it with fresh red tranny fluid. It has made a considerable difference. I would like to know if there is a way to drain the fluid from the torque converter and do a complete change without taking it to garage for a flush - I don't really trust too many places out there to do it. Thanks...kleuch48

I have a 1990 740 turbo and the ignition is locked in the off position. It will not turn forward and I can't turn the wheel at all, I don't know what to do. The car was fine and now it's a holiday weekend and some advice would be much appreciated.

Hi.

Hi,
I just got a 1991 Volvo 740 with 107,000 miles.
I am not sure the last time the car was tuned up, so I thought I should investigate the plugs and filters. Can anyone provide any advice or links about changing plugs, getting any special parts, or anything else about maintenance that I should do? Thank you...

Hello all, I'm sorry my first post is the request of information regarding a new headlight.

I'm Margaret, and I grew up in a Volvo family. Our first wagon was a 122, we had a beautiful red 544 since I was 3, Dad still drives a 142E wagon (#2 actually), and I finally joined in with my '89 760T wagon I bought last April. She's been a fabulous vehicle, but some jerk hit the left headlight while I was at the grocery store with the kids this evening, and the glass lense is toast, and in need of replacing. I checked the IPD site and about fainted at the $225 price. I've been driving a 1974 VW bus since high school, and have grown accustomed to scrounging parts at fairly reasonable cost. I even replaced one of the broken H4 Hella lenses on the bus at IPD for way less. My question is, have I entered the land of components, as opposed to parts, when replacing items on my wagon?

Just curious.......

Margaret

Hi,
My 290K 740 gl (8valves, auto transmission) has an transmission overdrive problem. The arrow light keeps coming on ans stays on, won't turn off. Untill today, no problem shifting to 4th around 80km/h. But now, it sometimes won't shift to 4th !!!
I checked the relay and it works well. I think it could be the solenoid. Could it be possible to get this solenoid in the position where it stays on overdrive.

Would you have a sketch, or very good explanation on where is that solenoid, since I'm not a mechanic...

Thank you !

Remi from Repentigny, Canada

Just picked up a 240 and it has tight steering just like my 760 Turbo. What is the deal? Is anyone else out there experiencing the same thing and what remedies were taken to fix the problem.

Hey fellas will a 90 740 radiator fit my 86 240dl.

I have the 2.4L non-turbo 4 cylinder - normally, the engine runs fine. However, when its wet outside or I'm driving on a wet road, the engine will just suddenly cut out. Pretty much completely lose power. I've checked, and the top half of the engine stays perfectly dry. Spark plugs, wires, they all stay dry. Has anyone had a similar problem? Andd what should I do about it? Thanks for the help!

I have a 1997 960 wagon with 118,000 miles on it. I bought it with 92,000 on it and it has been very well cared for since I have owned it. The previous owner seemed to Love and care for it as well. The recent issue is, I drove the car to work and the oil light began to flash on and off, and as I was only a mile from work and heard no odd engine sounds, I drove it to work and called my regular Volvo mechanic. He told me to take the oil filler cap off and see if oil would splash out when I started it. I started it, the oil light was no longer on and oil was splashing out the top, meaning there was seemingly good pressure. I switched the car off and noted that the oil level was also perfect. Almost full. My mechanic suggested it may be a bad sensor. I then proceeded to drive the car home, a 26 mile trip. When I was within a mile or so of home, the oil light once again began flashing on and off, and again, with the windows down I heard no tapping or unusual sounds. I parked the car in my drive, went in and made an appointment with my mechanic. I also again checked the oil level, switched the car on, and lo and behold, the oil light was NOT on once again, and upon removing the cap, oil was again splashing everywhere. I drove the car again over the weekend and the oil light again came on, but as there was no noises, I drove on, after a few miles I began to hear some slight tapping, upon which I pulled over and opened the cap and NO oil was splashing out the top. The car was tapping but idling smoothly. I shut her off and had her towed to my mechanics place. He still has the car in his shop, 2nd day as I write this. He still doesn't know what is going on, but when I told him I thought it may be the oil pump, he told me that in 20+ years of working on Volvo's, that he had NEVER had to replace an oil pump and didn't know anyone who worked on Volvo's that ever had to either. Since in his shop the oil pressure has seemingly been good as oil is splashing out when the cap is opened. This car has had regular oil changes with oil for high mileage vehicles of the correct weight. The timing belt and serpentine belt were also recently replaced along with tensioners and pulleys. I am at my wit's end on this one. I feel my mechanic is drawing at straws as he is frustrated that he can't figure out for sure what it is, and as this is my 8th Volvo, I feel I should be able to help diagnose this problem but I am unable to. ANY help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God Bless.

89 740 Turbo.
Wondering if there is a starter relay for this model and if so where is it located?

Have been havuing a problem of traveling a diastance shutting car off and then it will not turn starter over until it has cooled off. Then it starts normally again. I have changed starter, battery cables and am now wondering if there is a relay somewhere. Advice needed. Thanks

Corny

WhenI got the car 1 1/2 years ago, steering to the left was OK, but first turn of steering wheel to the right was hard then easy rest of the way. Now it turns hard bith ways. I noticed the fluid was thick and silver colored. Siphoned all I could out of the resevoir and added new. Steering was a little easier. Why was the fluid silver and thick? Internals of rack chewing themselves up?
Thanks for your help,
Fabmanrich

Okay - I got the door panel off. Yay me! (I get excited because I am a girl that will try and do car repairs on my own). But I need help on the next step.

Here is the short story:
Some one hit my front passenger door. Dented the hell out of it. The window was cracked about an inch. It wouldn't roll up anymore than the inch after that. Will roll down most the way - but never rolled it down after that. I had yet to get the dent fixed in the door. My car was then broken into a few months ago. That window was busted out. When it was replaced I asked the guy to make sure that the window was up all the way when he replaced it. He did so. Well, a friend rolled down the window last weekend and it won’t go back up again.

Now that I got the door panel off at lunch, I can't figure out where it is catching at....or if it is at all. I rolled it down and watched the mechanism and watched it as I rolled it back up (power windows). How do I get the window up all the way? Is there a trick I am missing here?

Hi,

We just purchased a 1989 760 turbo wagon. We really like it so far, just trying to work out some of the bugs though.

1. getting radio/casset changer to operate. I was having a new stereo installed and ran into problem with pre-amp issues. I decided to try and get old radio to work. turns out there were a few fuses blown on back of radio unit. However upon replacing those ran into problem of securit code. Someone tried to input a security code, and tripped the lock-out. The dealer said I need to leave key on for 3-4 hours for the input cycle to reset so I can put in the code I found in the packet of info that came with the car. Don't know if the code is correct, but will try it, it is six digits long. I was wondering if I can leave the key in the acccessories position, or must keep it in the on position? Does anyone know?

2. Next issue is the antenna, which is in the down position. I am told I can remove the nut on top of the antenna, and manually pull up the mast and leave it there. If i get problem 1 above resolved, I am going to try this.

3. The casset player does not seem to function. I do not know if that is because of the security code problem in 1. above, or whether it plain does not work. Is ther a CD player exchange module that can be inserted to replace the cassett player?

That's it for know. I have to tackle a loose headliner next.

BFN

wineman1

Recently, a friend had a head unit stolen from a 1990 Volvo... model 940, I think.

I'm trying to install another stereo, but the jerks snipped all the wires.

I've got the speakers figured out, but am miffed on the power and acc wires.

I'm thinking the power may be the red/green combo which should hook onto the red power for the new switch... it may possibly be the orange but that didn't make much sense.

Any help on this would be Much Appreciated.


Thanks!!

Hey all -
My stupid Haynes book does not tell me how to remove my door panel on my 1990 740. I need to shift the window back up. I know there are clips at the bottom of the door and one screw in the handle. What do I do to get it off?
Thanks!
VolvoforLife

I just grabbed a wagon with a manual trans with a hitch on her. I may do some light towing. Does anyone have any input on using the Volvo for towing?

THX

Does anyone have a pair or know where they can be located?

Thanks in advance.

Kenn

Just picked up a 1990 740 GLE with automatic transmission (295,000 kms) and seem to be having one significant problem. I bought the car in Ontario and drove it to New Brunswick (12 hour drive). When I first set out, the transmission seemed to shift fine, but further into the drive, it would not shift into top gear. Twice on the drive, after ~1 hour or so, top gear would finally kick in and the RPM would go from about 4,000 to 3,000 at 120 Km/H. As soon as I stopped to take a break, the problem would resume.

The problem has continued and now when I drive it back and forth to work (40 kms) it still will not shift into top gear.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

A second minor question. I'm on the hunt for a user manual to answer this question, but there is one rocker switch on the dash that I can't figure out what it does. It is to the left of the steering wheel and looks a bit like this:

\|/
|

Can anyone tell me what this does?

Thanks

Okay, so I have this weird (possibly wiring related) issue going on with all of my rear lights...

Here's what happens.

Tail lights work
Brake lights work.
Turn signals work.
Hazards work.
Reverse lights do not work.

When I step on the brakes AND use the turn signal:
Right signal: works fine.
Left signal: everything goes haywire.
tail lights flash
both turn signals flash
reverse lights flash


?!?

A few days back, I noticed after my wife got home from work I got in my 1989 760 GLE and went to the local store for gas. The car has never gave me any problems until now! I replaced the plugs about 2/3 month's ago. The car has 249,000 miles on it.

The problem is that when you start the car and it is Cold, The engine runs fine! When the engine warms up it starts a slight jerk in it while lde'in, When you give it gas it starts to Jerk and seems to miss. If you turn the car off and start back 10/secs or 10 minutes it jerks and miss'es. You can give it gas and it runs rough until it gets to like 2500 RPM's, On the highway it runs okay but not fine until you come to a stop and then it jerks and revs up but not bad, but you can feel it. If you turn it off and let sit until it gets somewhat cold again, The car will run fine until it gets back warm again! I have put good gas in it, I have checked the fuel filter all good, The air filter is ok too.

This is my only way of going, I need help! Please someone help me!


Thank you very much!

Kevin

The driver's side window of my '90 760 sedan needs to be adjusted and I can't figure out how to do it. Whenever I roll the window up completely, there is a gap at the top rear of the window. Someone told me that it is just a matter of adjusting four screws but I either can't find them or don't know where to look. I took the door panel of and so I'm at least that far but if someone could help me out with what exactly to adjust/tighten that would be great. Thanks in advance.

I know this is a pretty basic topic, but I just received a new header pipe from eEuroparts.com (great supplier) and am having trouble getting the three nuts loose at the manifold. Any secrets for a backyard mechanic on how to get them loose and remove them without damaging studs? Lol, I bet a popular response would be to take it to a garage. Thanks, Kleuch48

My high beam does not work on one side. I changed the bulb and it is not the problem. Does anyone have the diagram handy?

Thanks

E

Got a strange problem with my heating and A/C. While driving the car, during periods of acceleration, the flow of air coming out the vents almost completely diminishes. When you let off the gas to coast (or at idle) the flow comes back to normal. This happens with either the heating or A/C no matter what vents are selected. Also does the same thing with the recirculate switch on.

From my limited knowledge of autos, it would seem it has something to do with the engine vacuum during acceleration. Question is, where should I start looking and at what?

Erick

Anyone know of a good resource for new or rebuilt power seat switches for a 89 760?
Dealer is too expensive and haven't found any decent ones on ebay.

Everyone, i have an 87 740 Wng, and i would like to convert it to a turbo. how would i go about doing this? would i just buy a turbo from someone, or would i need to change the whole engine? can anyone give me any clues?

Also can i buy any upgraded EUC for the current config? anyone know where to buy that?

reply to texx17@msn.com

My brake lights just randomly decided to stop working in my '86 740 Turbo. The third light (in the window) works, the turn signals work, the reverse lights work, and the middle light works.

[-----][--][--] --- [TS--][R-][--] --- TS: Turn signal; R: Reverse; B: Brake light
[--X--][--][X] --- [B---][Ba][B] --- Ba: Brake light (if lights arent on) X: Non-working light

The strange thing is, the same lights don't work on the other side. I checked the wiring and the fuses and it seems like everything should work. I replaced the bulbs, so they arent burned out. I checked to make sure they were receiving power, and they are. They just... dont work. I have no ideas, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

1. Fuse is Fine
2. Took out the fan and motor, bench tested it and it is fine.
3. Its cold outside.
4. Please help!

What else should I be looking for?
It would die then come back on.

Does the climate control wear out easily?

[COLOR=blue]Hello, it is great to have found this forum. Its nice to see such enthusiam for Volvo's. I recently bought a 92 740 turbo wagon with 186,000 miles on it. I have been driving it a few weeks now and suddenly it won't start. It turns over, but nothing. Its got juice and I cleaned the spark plugs (they were black and sooty). Some of its problems I have become aware of are that it burns a rediculous amount of oil (1qt per 250miles). There is a noticeable leak, but it seems minor compared to how much oil is dissappearing. Also, the check engine light stays on most of the time. I found some oil in the hose going to the engine from the turbo and the hose going in to the intercooler. The car has very little power, as well. The turbo needle goes up but the car just puts along. It doesn't like doing much over 65mph. It may have run with almost no oil a few times. The previous owner didn't check the oil level between oil changes, which I found out after I bought it. I would like to keep this car and get it runnig at its optimum. I was also wondering (if it comes to it), what it would take to throw a rebuilt engine and possibly a rebuilt turbo in the car. What would be the estimated costs for parts and labour, and also, if anyone can recommend a good place where I could go about getting the engine and turbo, if that was the case. Trying to figure out what my options are before I take it to a mechanic. I appreciate any replies and I would like to say again, how great it is to be in this forum! Greetings to all!

This is my first one with head gasket problems. A 1985 740 turbo Any problem areas on the install??


THX

Especially when its warm and driven several miles, the reverse has started not to engage on my 300,000 mile (transmission "only" 140,000 mile) 740 auto GL estate. If I rev in park, it tries to move forward at first but then locks. In reverse it does engage eventually (suddenly and jerkily) if I rev hard but initially just revs as if it's in neutral. In D, it also sometimes behaves at beginning of journey when cold as if it's in 2. Otherwise, car goes forwards, accelerates fine at all speeds and slips neatly into overdrive as expected.

my car tends to have a very shaky steering wheel, and is quite noisy on the highway ( alot of low-tone rubbing sounds ) and also vibrates alot.

i was checking out my suspension, my rear shocks are gone for sure, and so are some of the front bushings.

now one of my ball joints has the rubber cover on it, but the other doesn't ( drivers side one ). as it looks fairly dirty ( and dry too! ) i'm guessing its probably the main cause for this dismay as it is most likely shot.

also, there is a bar that hooks onto the wheel ( somewhere on there, it was getting dark didnt have too much time to check it out ) that is the one mounted the farthest back in the front, where it hooks on there is a round rubber thing that it sticks into. on the right side it is in excellent condition, on the drivers side its almost come entirely out and is fairly cracked and shredded.

any comments ?

thanks, SB.

Hello,
I'm turning to the pros here for help.

Here's the deal.
I have a well maintained 1990 Volo 740 GL - Only 80,000 miles on her.

Three weeks ago (cold day <10 degrees) I went out and started my car and moved it ten feet and shut it off. I started absolutely fine.
A Half hour later, I went to start it again and it was cranking fine and acting like it was going to catch but never did. I also immediately smelled gas. Figuring the car was flooded. I held the gas pedal to the floor and continued to try to start it to no avail.

Had it towed to a local shop and they said it was simply flooded and they changed the oil, cleaned the plugs and said it started fine.
I picked it up and took it home. The next morning (very cold again) It wouldn't start...again, immediately smelled gas...try to clear it by holding down the gas pedal and again...no start. (cost with tow - $180)

Had it towed again to another local shop...this guy also changed the oil cleaned the plugs and he disconnected the cold start injector thinking that it was spraying in too much fuel. Figuring it was a cold start flooding problem. (cost with tow - $260)

I picked it up the next morning and it started fine and ran great as it always has.

Fast forward 3 weeks and I went out again on a cold morning. Started the car up just fine...moved it about 10 feet and shut it off and went out a half hour later to start it and SAME THING - Immediate smell of gas and NO Start.

This time I had it towed all the way to a Volvo Dealer who started that the connection to the Radio Suppresion Relay was bad and had to be rewired. So at the cost of $485...I had that done. The Service Advisor said that this should totally take car of the problem.
I picked up the car and it started right up. Drove it to the store a block away...ran in for just a second...came out and it wouldn't start!
I again...immediatelt smelled gas. I held the gas pedal down and luckily it did catch and fire right up...Drove perfect...no smoke...no loss of power. Nice Purring sound.
Drove it around for about ten miles and took it back to the dealership to have them look it over and they were closed.
I had shut the car off...I went to start it and it fired right up.

So...it seems that for some reason that if the car is ran for just a very short time and then shut off and tried to restart...
it immediately floods itself.

Does anyone have ANY IDEA why that might be happening? - I've got close to $1,000 spent on repairs and no closer to fixing the problem.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have a 89 740 GL.

I have 2 intermittent (once every week or 2) problems. The first problem is that while driving, the engine will not pass 2,500 RPMs. If I put the car in neutral, turn the car off and restart the engine and put the car back in to drive, the problem goes away.

The second problem is that the up shift will self engage and can not be turned off, but after 30 to 90 seconds, it will disengage. All other times, the up shift button functions normally.

These problems aren’t the end of the world, but I’d like to correct them.

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Hi from Seattle!

Have '86 740 GLE Turbo Diesel. D24, auto, over 200,000 miles. And it's dead in my driveway.

*** 2/20/06 Update: RUNNING!!

Solution:
Bled air @ injectors: Cracked injectors one at a time. Crank till fuel flows then re-tightened injector. There's a small fuel leak, so air got in. Haven't found source yet.

****History:

Was running GREAT after I put in new breather hose. Also unplugged air box and put in pre-heater hose as getting cold out. (Much better cold start, less smoke and better performance.)

Then first cold night (under 32 F) and cranked but wouldn't start. Even tried a bit of propane torch on intake elbow, starter fluid (NO GLOW PLUG CYCLE)...battery went dead. Had noticed earlier when running that tachometer broke. Maybe alternator shot? Load test indicated bad battery. 5 years old. Bought new battery.

Glow:

Glow plug relay link smokes, though get voltage to glow plug bus bar, at least 6 seconds. First, glow indicator in dash goes out, then a second or so later voltmeter on bus bar shows voltage falling to 0 volts. (When glow indicator lamp on, get about 10 volts on bus from freshly charged brand new battery. After entire glow cycle, voltage jumps back up over 12 volts.)

Opened glow plug relay. One of two contacts largely burned away, bent it back so both arms make contact. Still works, link still smokes so I'll replace relay.



Tried to measure glow plug resistance. Hard to zero meter, but seems ENTIRE bus (all 6 plugs in parallel) are about 1 ohm or under. (If fast plugs (gold): 1 ohm each, X 6 in parallel = .17 ohms total bus resistance. That should be 72 Amps (865 Watts). If slow plugs(silver): 1.5 ohms each X 6 = 1.25 ohms, total bus. Think that's 54 A. (648 Watts). So, I did have glow plugs replaced (4 easy ones) last year. If they put in fast glow plugs that 72 Amps is pushing close to 80 A fusible link in glo