Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

The B21, and related red block motors, were named using the following convention: B##X or B##VX. Where B stands for "bensin" (gasoline), ## stands for the displacement in deciliters, and X is an appropriate suffix. On the later low-friction motors, V denotes SOHC configuration (0) or DOHC configuration (4, for 4 valves per cylinder).

i.e. B230 (SOHC, 2.3 Liters), B234 (2.3 Liters, DOHC * 4 valves per cylinder * 4 cylinders = 16 valves)

The following suffixes were commonly used by Volvo:

A - single constant-pressure type carburetor (such as the Pierburg 175 CDUS), typically with manual choke
B - high compression, with twin carburetor's, either twin zenith-strombergs or twin SU's.
E - high compression, no catalyst, fuel injected (usually K-Jetronic, LH2.2 Jetronic, or Motronic on the turbo motors)
F - low compression (9.8:1 on B230F, 9.5:1 on B280F, 10.0:1 on B234F and 10.7:1 on B6304F), USA/Europe version (F for Federal) with catalytic converter. Europe/APAC version, fuel injected (usually LH Jetronic or Bendix Regina)
K - single jet type carburetor (such as the Solex-Cisac carbs), typically with automatic choke
G - LH2.4 Jetronic but without cat. converter, CO adjustment on the AMM (similar to LH2.2 Jetronic). Some models without O2 sensor, others with O2 sensor which requires regular replacement at intervals due to lead fouling. For markets which unleaded fuel was rare in the early 90's, eg. Eastern Europe
FB - low compression version of B230F (9.3:1) with the "531" cylinder head and VX3 camshaft, power output 11kW and 2Nm more than B230F. LH2.4 Jetronic fuel injection, for European markets.
FD - essentially a B230F fitted with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Pulse air system for cleaner emissions
T - turbocharged, after E or F suffix (example: B21ET, B230FT)
FK - low pressure turbo, 1995 onward, not supplied in North America. Identical to the B230FT engine of that time but lowered boost level (4 PSI)
FTX - Higher power output B230FT (approx 190 hp)

Hello again all, made a lot of headway with my air conditioning, but there's still one more problem

The clutch for the AC on my 97 960 (Auto ECC) cycles, 2 seconds or so on, 2 seconds or so off, repeatedly, several times until the clutch fuse finally burns. Any ideas?

I figure that the coil on the clutch needs to be replaced, but i'm not completely sure. I'd like to know a little more about the procedure before i start dismantling the thing, (it's in a pretty confined place, and i don't want to open the system).

The way I understand, you remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the clutch, pull off the clutch, remove the snap ring on the shaft, press off the pulley, remove another snap ring, then remove the coil.

Is this correct? has anyone ever done this before that could shed some light, or maybe a diagram

Thanks in advance for all your help, you guys are the best!!

In the process of troubleshooting my stalling issue my car would would turn over but not start. Then i was messing with the fuses and relays and now it will not even turn over. I bought a Crank position sensor and have yet to install it because it's not even turning over now.

Could I have messed up a relay from pulling it out? BLEHH

I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now im lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail.

Would it be my injectors?
let me know if you need some more information.

Let me just start by stating I have zero knowledge on engines.

I bought my 940 non-turbo wagon in very good condition. For 6 years, I've driven it 74 miles daily every weekday. My average speed on the highway was 65 MPH, and average 24 MPG. Its acceleration responded very well, and it geared up between 2000 and 3000 RPM. Its maintenance and service is always on-schedule and done by the same mechanic.

Starting 13-months ago, my use for it reduced to 10 miles during weekends only. There are weeks when it does not get used at all. Its maintenance and service is still always on-schedule and done by the same mechanic. However, it recently underwent some replacements: transmission, gas pre-pump, gas main-pump, front suspensions; I instructed to use OEM parts only. These were all replaced at the same time.

When I got the car back with the replaced parts, it now performs differently. Its acceleration responds slow, and it shifts up late to 4rd gear when the engine has been off for at least 4 hours - running 60 MPH on 3rd gear at 4000 RPM. Eventually, after ~20 minutes of driving, the shift up to 4th gear works as expected, at which time it then runs 60 MPH on 4th gear at 3000 RPM.

The mechanic has bypassed an "solenoid" for the overdrive, but I am still experiencing the acceleration and shifting issues. The mechanic now suspects wiring issues, but is not really certain what is causing it.

Any recommendation you can share, I will bring it back to the mechanic.

Thank you, and regards.

Hi

how can i remove the kickpanel on the passenger side on a 940 lhd?

on the drivers side it has 2 screws.

on the passenger side i couldn't figure it out.


thanks

Hi all,

I am new to this forum and know very little about my 19 year old Volvo except that it's now leaking Anti-Freeze. It was running fine, then the oil light on the dash started to flash on here and there, oil is holding steady. But I noticed the water reservoir was empty. So last night I filled it up with an entire jug of 50/50 antifreeze. I couldn't tell if it was leaking or if it was dripping from me spilling. I have attached a photo of under the hood. What appears to be leaking is the orangish-red part located behind and to bottom left of bronze colored part in the center of photo. Timing belt is at the bottom. To me it looks like it might be coming out the top and running down the part. But this is a guess. Just wondering what the orange-red part is so I can decide if my car is dead forever due to expense of repairing. Thought I'd ask some fellow Volvo owners before getting a needless estimate from a mechanic. Thanks for any help and sorry for identifying by color. This is the best photo I can get with my broken elbow.
Jessica

Hey all. I've been trying to diagnose a problem i've been having. Every now and then after driving for about 30 miles, my car won't start for about five to ten minutes. I've had no problems while driving.

- The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over
- I can hear the fuel pump engage when i turn the ignition
- My crank sensor was replaced last summer, my SRS relay is good, as is my fuel injector relay
- Spark plugs and distributor cap are new
- It's a Regina fuel injection

I'm thinking RPM sensor at this point, but i'd hate to replace it if it's not the problem. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

I have a 93 940 and I have a set of 18" wheels that I want to install. The lug pattern on the wheels is 5x100 so I would need adapters to go from 5x108 to 5x100. Anyone know where I can find used or inexpensive new ones? All I can find are new billet alloy ones for over $200 a set not including lug nuts that I will need. Any help will be appreciated.

I recently purchased a 1992 Volvo 940 GL and was was facing an issue the next day. It was bogging down when I hit the gas and now will not start.

I pulled a line off of the fuel rail to see if it was getting fuel and it is getting a little, i pulled the fuel pump relay and tried to start and no fuel, this tells me that the relay is not what is bad. The man i bought it from said he had replaced the fuel filter. I went to price an (in tank) fuel pump and purchased it. I put the new fuel pump in and now it's back to square one. Anyone have any ideas? Let me know other things I should test or what else I can do. thanks

-Dante

I have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!

I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!
Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..hmmm I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..

Any ideas guys, the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..

Any help would be much appreciated,
Cheers Craig.

any idea which fuse is for the windshield wiper fluid ? switch broke and its stuck to spray and dont want to burn the motor

94 940 gl

Hi,

I'm a new user here, I hope I'm posting to the appropriate forum. Thanks for anyone with time to offer their thoughts.

I'm looking at a '97 960 Volvo sedan with 122,000 miles and new tires (less than 1k miles old), regular oil changes, smogged last week, full records and all features working, that belongs to a customer of my Volvo mechanic who I really trust. The person is selling it for $4,400. I know very little about cars, and don't know if this is too cliche but I looked it up on kbb, and it seems like the absolute highest it should sell for is $3,500-$4,000. But I don't know if that takes the new tires into account?

I've got an appt for my mechanic to fully inspect the car this Wednesday morning, for $180. I'm unsure and would appreciate advice regarding the following:

a) Is getting it inspected a waste of $? The seller already has all the records and is willing to share them (I'm not sure if that's before or after the sale, but I'd think if she's willing to have it inspected, she'd be fine with letting me look at her records).

Is there any way that $4,400 is a fair price? If not, what is an honest fair price for it, if it passes inspection fairly flawlessly? (I don't want to make an insulting offer, but obviously saving $400-$900 would be really helpful.

c) The owner (the guy I trust most at the shop) is less involved with the shop now. In the past when I asked him about purchasing other customers' cars, he has said he'd be able to talk down the seller by a few hundred. I think he'd probably do likewise here if he thought it priced too high, but given that he's there less often, I happened to speak to another staff member today, who seemed highly reticent to be involved at all.

I understand obviously that good boundaries should be observed, but I got the feeling they are more inclined to side with the other client, who has been their client for fifteen years, vs my one year, and who undoubtedly has spent a lot more $ with them. I know having an inspection is supposed to help me negotiate better, but I'm concerned whether they might not be fully honest about any flaws/older parts (the owner definitely would be), and just whether it would be better for me to ask up front if they'd lower it by $400, rather than spending $180 and then negotiating?


Thanks for thoughts on any part of this, if there's anything you think I'm excessively worrying about feel free to let me know, or any particular features of the car I should ask after, I really appreciate the advice!

So I'm trying to do a full tune up and clean up the engine a little bit. Maybe make an intake for my 1994 940 (NA), but there's a lot of hoses connected between all parts of the intake and exhaust it seems. I'm trying to figure out what parts under the hood can be removed. My cruise control is broken in half, spring hanging out, so I'd like to remove that excess bit but it runs to a vacuum line that looks like it ties into another part, so I don't want to cause any problems with anything else.
Things like that, the exaust recirc to intake hose maybe, or anything else on the intake that might have been for emissions but doesn't really need to be hooked up to run properly.
Any advice on this matter would be much appreciated.

I have a 1994 960. It has developed a glitch. It idles fine when cold, but as it warms up it starts idling erratically-bouncing between about 500-900 rpm. It hasn't displayed a code so I'm stumped. Any ideas would be appreciated.

First of all I am new here so please excuse me if this has already been covered, I looked but may have over-looked it over...

I almost feel like an **** for asking this but, I have had quite a bit of difficult finding a source of usable information. I have been looking for some info on what size speakers are actually in my car. It seems like every site has said something different. (Don't believe me, please look for yourself.)

I do have a wagon, so the 6x9's in the back so frequently mentioned aren't an option even in my car.
I'm looking for the size of the front door speakers. (while the back seem to be 5 1/4's) The fronts seem to be slightly bigger and the bolt pattern is different.

I'd like to know the front door sizes (as well as back door if possible) and will I need to get an adapter because of the strange bolt pattern?

My 97 960 idler pulley failed resulting in timing belt coming off then the exhaust valves contacting the pistons (interferance engine) bending all exhaust valves. Also when removing the head I found that this wasn't the the first time. The intake valves hit prior to my purchase, carbon filled marks was the give away. Also finding a broken head bolt was the topper. That bolt was covered w/ years of oily grime with about 1/4 /still in the block. My question is , is it worth the $ to fix with 210,000 miles? Also the broken head bolt any ideas? the engine still in the car

where is the fuse for volvo 960 1996 lighter?

New to the forum and need help. So, I replaced the fuel pump a week ago and noticed the harness was melted on the old one. I put the new one in and now the pump has gone out again a week later. I haven't had time today to pull the pump out again because of work, but I'm guessing the harness melted again. Any Ideas of what might be causing this?

new to the form, I did do searches and have found nothing, not just here but google too, the car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computor, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!) here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
we also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14
for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
we also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but am looking for some advice for what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm
any help is greatly appriciated
thank you!!

Just got this 960 and it is loaded with everything.....it has the remote keyless sensor on the right front dash speaker. I don't have the key fob. I followed the instructions found on BB to locate the control unit....it is NOT located on the right side of the glove box. Is there another location?

I am jazzing up a really nice 94 960 for a christmas surprise. It currently has the stock alloys, 6x15, on it (see attached). I have a spare set of rims off of an 850 (6.5x16)that would look good (attached also). What type of spaces should I get and what size? any help appreciated!

1994 960
The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it-should both lines have vacuum present?
I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
Thanks

Hej, I’m new here. I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) which I really love. Or loved. I am seriously thinking of junking it if this issue isn’t resolved very soon, it is driving me absolutely crazy.

Here’s the diagnosis: car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.

Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)

Does this make any sense, pointing to whatever triggers this nonsense, assuming that a bunch of this signals is simply triggered by the engine dying off. But what makes it die in the first place?

Over the last year, I’ve had it at a mechanic two times for this. We exchanged the external fuel pump, the mass airflow sensor and another sensor I think was the crank sensor.

Please help me. I can’t put up with this much longer.

Just picked up this car and dont have the key fob. What do I need to know in order to make sure I order the correct replacement?

Hi- I can't find a listing for a 511 diagnostic code for my 1994 960. Can anyone tell me what this is? Thanks

Hi,

I have an issue with my 960 wagon. When I first got the car this past July, the AC light was flashing. I ignored it because I didn't really need the AC. I knew the heat worked fine, which I need up here in the northeast.

However, a week ago or so the heat suddenly stopped working. It worked fine in the morning. I parked the car in a lot, came back about five hours later, and no heat. Ugh.

I found the sheet with the AC diagnostic codes on it, and followed the procedure to get the codes.

You can find the info on this other Volvo forum site, where I've left a similar message:

http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-260-760...ng-light-63391/

I'm getting the code 132 every time I do the diagnostic, and sometimes I also get 161. Of the three times on three different days I've done the diagnostic, the 161 only came up once.

In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor
Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To 12 Volts .......... 132

Solar Sensor ......................................... 161

I'm not sure where the in-vehicle temperature sensor is. Is it in the dome light? It says the "courtesy light fixture" in the docs, so I'm not sure this is the same thing. The dome light is not currently connected in my car. I have two of them in the garage but neither ever produced light when plugged in, and the heat worked fine all during that time, so I didn't worry about it. It was only until a week ago or so that the heat stopped working.

The temp panel controls work fine. Blower blows as needed, vents switch no problem. Recirculate actuates. No heat.

I took the car to a local high-end garage and they replaced my thermostat, which didn't need replacing. They then wanted to look under the dash for three hours, at $115 per hour (!!!). I told them no thanks and took the car back.

Not sure what to do at this point. Any thoughts?

Where is the "jack attachment adjacent to wheel" so I can just change my tire? The picture in the owner's manual is no help. I've looked in front of the wheel, behind the wheel... I mean, under the car, of course. The picture looks like it ought to be a pin-like cylinder-ish thing sticking out from an upward-sloping chassis member, but I can't find the aforementioned upward-sloping chassis member even. And the manual also says not to just let the car rest atop the hook on the jack, so I won't do that. arghh. Thanks.

My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it klunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it klunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during the Thanksgiving stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die, I could hardly enjoy my turkey afterwards.

I am blessed with a wonderful independent Volvo mechanic and I am due to take it in for a periodic servicing anyway, but now it is the weekend and I can't do that yet, so I thought I would just see if anyone here has ideas or suggestions.

The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be klunking into gear then?

Hi all; so having codes for O2 sensors after replacing the Cat in August, I also thought its wise to replace the PCV canister at 140K miles. My 1997 960 has been a perfect car with almost no issues. My shop got the O2 sensors changed easy, then they took 4 hours to replace the PCV can and hoses. WOW $320 in labor. Then 2 days later I'm traveling to see the daughter an find oil dripping under my baby. Sure enough, its down a quart and the underside of the car is blasted with oil. Took 2 quarts to get home (200 miles). Should have left the PCV system alone. On the bright side, the oil will help in rust prevention. bob

Make sure to like us on facebook at www.facebook.com/govolvoparts to stay up to date on our sales and promotions. I will be posting a black Friday special.

I have some picture of one of our very good customers 960 on there. Check it out and Like his 960.

Thanks,
Luis
GoVolvoParts.com, Genuine Volvo Parts at wholesale pricing

I am new to the site. I purchased my first Volvo 2 months ago from a new friend. A 96 960 with 214,000 miles.

Just ran into my first head scratching problem today with it.
Check engine light on, then flashing when accelerating. Pulled codes, cyl #3 misfire.

The car came with a mountain of service records. After a few hours I pulled service records of 9 ignition coils being replaced with in the last 10 years. Here is a list:

04/2002 cyl 4 coil replaced and plugs replaced 84,713 miles
05/2004 cyl 4 coil replaced
02/2006 cyl 1 coil replaced
06/2007 cyl 4 coil replaced (was noted that coil wire harness may need to be replaced)
10/11/2007 cyl 3 had oil in spark plug well. plugs changed.
10/16/2007 cyl 3 coil needed rewiring
07/2008 cyl 4 coil replaced
06/2009 cyl 2 and 4 coils replaced
06/2012 cyl 3 and 4 coils replaced 210,710 miles

I am beginning to think that this car hates new coils.

Could the underlying problem be the ECU not shutting off the coils when car is off? Bad wiring?
Shed some light on my situation!

Thank you, and glad to be part of the site.

Hi-maybe someone can clarify something for me:
Does or dosen't a 1994 960 have an EGR Valve. I'm getting mixed information. Thanks

I'm a proud new owner of a 1992 Volvo 940gl and I'm having a few issues. First off this is a awesome car, I had no idea Volvo's were so nice. Ok so mine has 167,000 miles on it and it runs like a top. My issues are it has a check engine light on and the abs light is on. The A diagnostic box is missing the test lead, the button and the led itself. Can anyone help me in finding an old car to rob these parts off? I will gladly pay whatever it takes. Is there any other way of diagnosing issues on these or is this box an absolute must have? Thanks for all your help!
Scott

Hello!

New to the V-Fs. Consider myself capable of doing most anything necessary to fix a car short of rebuilding an engine or transmission - I've repaired most anything imaginable on Buicks, Olds, Jeeps, Rovers and even an Accord. However, this Volvo (a gift given as basic transportation during a job transition) is stumping me; car is a base 94 940 with (as far as I can tell) a B230F. Have not been able to find a Green Book, much less a Haynes, Chilton, Bentley, etc for it. Anyone know where I can find a Green Book? One that won't cost me a fraction of what the car is worth.

Current issue - car cranks, runs. However after first stopping then restarting, the car stalls out and won't restart until having sat for 30 minutes to 1 hour+ Battery is new, alternator seems strong, have changed fuel pump relay today. My first thought was the fuel pumps - how do I determine if I have one or two pumps, if its a Bosch or Regina system? There is only one "8" in the VIN.

Could it be the fuel filter? Seems like if it was seriously clogged, the vehicle wouldn't be running.

Background - car overheated in '01, engine was rebuilt (though likely not to blueprint) and car has been maintained at Swedish Imports (down the street.) Folks there seem really nice but for what was expended over the past 10+ years, it should be running like a top. It isn't.

I really want to like Volvos but my gut is this one's more trouble than it's worth. If it were a 240 Turbo 5 speed or perhaps even a 940 Turbo or 960, I'd find a way to invest more in parts and documentation. As it is, can't afford to spend $300-$400 on parts for something that may/may not be the problem, on a car that's likely worth less $1500.

That said, If I can find a way to get it running reliably for $200-300 with the expectation of getting at least 3 monthsof reliable limited use (then relegated to backup status or sold) its worth fixing to me. Otherwise, it's about to be sold as rolling scrap.

Thanks for any advice/insight you can offer!

yss

Hi-I have a 1994 960. Before I bought it, the engine was changed. The serial number on the timing belt cover is 1289963 and there is a 223678 also. I'm trying to find out what year model the engine is before I start buying parts for it. Thanks in advance. On the head, there is also a 1001008P12

My mechanic and me are baffled with this problem. I had a new head gasket, plugs, belts and water pump put in on my 1997 960 and the car is ready to start up and go...except the alarm system/immobilizer will not allow the car to start.(I also had the mechanic replace the drivers side door handle as the plastic clip broke, but I don't think this has any bearing on the alarm) I bought new CR1220 batteries for the remote and tried turning the 5X ignition then holding the button after the fifth try to reset the fob, but doesn't help. I have all the lights working, yet the horn will go off and the lights flashas as if someone is stealing the car. We have tried everything from unhooking the battery cables to pulling our hair out and cannot get the car to start.

Can someone please help?

hi to all out there ! my 1994 960 volvo wagion has developed loud ticking noise, sounds like a lifter but possible from lower part of motor, would a clogged pcv valve afdfect the liftewr or oil pump. car has 256 thousand miles still runs good but noise is pretty loud

First time poster.

Can some one show me the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.

Thanks!

I'm looking for help finding the correct part number for the ECU on a 1994 Non Turbo Volvo 940. This is located behind the floor right side kick/foot panel on the passenger side. (All it takes is a screw driver one allen wrench to remove the rail cover near it to remove the cover.)

It appears that someone had replaced this previously and based upon my problems, I'm "guessing" they put in the incorrect one? Or the incorrect one for my car. (I know this is NOT the original based upon the writing in magic marker indicating part numbers and year etc. which appears it was purchased used from a salvage.) From what I'm finding there is more than one part number for this ECU for this car.

Another question is... "Why would anyone replace this part to begin with?" Do they really ever go bad?

This would make sense since there are two type known "types" Regina and more commonly I believe is the Bosch. My car is the Bosch.

(If you can help, great!!! I am also thinking that I may have call the dealer for a possible VIN number match to correct ECU.)

Based upon all the recent parts I've replaced and maintenance items I chose to get current, I would say my problem is unique. The car is a 1994 Vehicle, so I chose to bring up as many maintenance items current to eliminate them as possibilities. Most were cheap, some not so much, but still all in all, inexpensive because I did it myself. See the thread below for more info.

http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-240-740...-problem-66069/

Below is just to elaborate and perhaps help others suspecting a ECT problem.

In short, once I replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) or sometimes referred to as the Fuel Temperature Sensor (near the rear of the engine on the drivers side) the car became hard to start.

I found by trial and error that if I unplugged the AMM (Air Mass Meter) the car would start no problem, but run very rich based upon the smell. Once warmed up, I plug back in the AMM and it runs great!

I just put the old/original ECT back in the car as a test and found that the car starts but idles rough at first while pumping the gas to keep it running. It also smooths out when warm BUT seems to run a bit "sluggish" with poor fuel economy compared to when I put in the new ECT.

The measurements on the old ECT were 3.64K Ohms when room temp and the new one measured 2.68K Ohms. When placed both in hot water the new one went to lower ohms than the old one. (Sorry I didn't have the exact temp of the water. All I know is both Sensors in the same temp water the new one went to about 500 Oms while the old one went to about 900 Ohms based upon memory.) The water of course was not boiling and probably not as warm as the engine coolant so this would make sense.

Below is what I found about the measurements in Ohms for the ECT and as you can see below the new ECT seems to fall into the specs more so than the original.

940
With LH Fuel Injection
14 (-10) ............................ 8260-10,560
68 (20) ............................... 2280-2720
176 (80) ................................ 290-364

I think I'm approaching the conclusion soon, I would like to post the solution if anyone is interested?

Hello, i have spent quite a few nights now trying to find a guide specific to what i need to do, i know the alarm system in the car is on the fritz, goes off at random, and drains the battery somehow, constantly. I need to bypass it, and i have seen some guides but like i said, nothing that helps me with what i see, i have attached a picture of my alarm system and the wire harness going two it, it has three fuses on it. if anyone can help or point me in the right direction it would be appreciated! i am not a complete noob i just do not know what wires need to be crossed or etc, most of the guides are for newer models, this is the volvo guard alarm 1 i think?

hi there, last night returned from three hour trip in my 1994 volvo 960 station wsagon and there was a loud whistle type noise fr4om engine area, this morning started car and the noise is gone. I have not driven car yet, any ideas ? just drove car a few miles yikes whats up ! constant alarm type noise from top rear area of motor ! help !!!

Hello,

I have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car.

What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.

I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal

I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.

I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that helps and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.

When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740)

I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?

Any help is welcome. I'm going for the Fuel Temp Sensor next so any suggestion are welcome. Thank you!

Hey, Folks...I"m new here and to Volvo's newer than the 80's.

Bought a new 1995 960, 59,000 miles from original owner. An absolute peach. Few door dings and that's it.

When I accelerate the air stops blowing out of the face vents, but continues to blow on the feet. After reaching cruising speeds the air returns to the face vents. Air is not too cold, but then again, it is 98 degrees F in Houston, Texas. Any thoughts?

Anyone know of a great Volvo maintenance facility in Houston?

Also, the original window sticker shows I should have a 6-CD player. Where would it be mounted? Can't locate it or where it was.

Thanks,

BJones

Hi ,does anyone know where the receiver unit/ units are located on a 940,for the keyless entry remote.

Hey, guys! I have a 940 Base sedan and I had the tank cleaned and a new in-tank pump installed. The mechanic told me I need a new fuel sending unit. I have searched the Internet and found a couple of them without the pump made for the 940 Turbo. My question is: Are the two interchangeable? That is to say, would the design have changed between the two engines? Any thoughts?

I have a 95 940 turbo that shakes realy bad when breaking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors
2. Replaced all for calipars
3. Replaced sway bar control arms

The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when breaking.

Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon

Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.

Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.

Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)

This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? AMM shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.

Reasonable?

Starts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.

Any Ideas?

Thank you

I had some flooding in my 1993 940 and I had to rip out the fiberous board that lies underneath the carpets. I have been unable to locate replacements and Volvo wants hundreds of dollars to ship from Sweden. Any suggestions on where I might find this board that sits directly on the metal floor, or possible alternatives?