Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

The B21, and related red block motors, were named using the following convention: B##X or B##VX. Where B stands for "bensin" (gasoline), ## stands for the displacement in deciliters, and X is an appropriate suffix. On the later low-friction motors, V denotes SOHC configuration (0) or DOHC configuration (4, for 4 valves per cylinder).

i.e. B230 (SOHC, 2.3 Liters), B234 (2.3 Liters, DOHC * 4 valves per cylinder * 4 cylinders = 16 valves)

The following suffixes were commonly used by Volvo:

A - single constant-pressure type carburetor (such as the Pierburg 175 CDUS), typically with manual choke
B - high compression, with twin carburetor's, either twin zenith-strombergs or twin SU's.
E - high compression, no catalyst, fuel injected (usually K-Jetronic, LH2.2 Jetronic, or Motronic on the turbo motors)
F - low compression (9.8:1 on B230F, 9.5:1 on B280F, 10.0:1 on B234F and 10.7:1 on B6304F), USA/Europe version (F for Federal) with catalytic converter. Europe/APAC version, fuel injected (usually LH Jetronic or Bendix Regina)
K - single jet type carburetor (such as the Solex-Cisac carbs), typically with automatic choke
G - LH2.4 Jetronic but without cat. converter, CO adjustment on the AMM (similar to LH2.2 Jetronic). Some models without O2 sensor, others with O2 sensor which requires regular replacement at intervals due to lead fouling. For markets which unleaded fuel was rare in the early 90's, eg. Eastern Europe
FB - low compression version of B230F (9.3:1) with the "531" cylinder head and VX3 camshaft, power output 11kW and 2Nm more than B230F. LH2.4 Jetronic fuel injection, for European markets.
FD - essentially a B230F fitted with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Pulse air system for cleaner emissions
T - turbocharged, after E or F suffix (example: B21ET, B230FT)
FK - low pressure turbo, 1995 onward, not supplied in North America. Identical to the B230FT engine of that time but lowered boost level (4 PSI)
FTX - Higher power output B230FT (approx 190 hp)

Hello again all, made a lot of headway with my air conditioning, but there's still one more problem

The clutch for the AC on my 97 960 (Auto ECC) cycles, 2 seconds or so on, 2 seconds or so off, repeatedly, several times until the clutch fuse finally burns. Any ideas?

I figure that the coil on the clutch needs to be replaced, but i'm not completely sure. I'd like to know a little more about the procedure before i start dismantling the thing, (it's in a pretty confined place, and i don't want to open the system).

The way I understand, you remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the clutch, pull off the clutch, remove the snap ring on the shaft, press off the pulley, remove another snap ring, then remove the coil.

Is this correct? has anyone ever done this before that could shed some light, or maybe a diagram

Thanks in advance for all your help, you guys are the best!!

Hi everyone, I'm new here, been reading the tons of suggestions and help, most of my problems have been "cured" by all your wonderful posts.

I've been chasing down a few problems with my '92 940 non-turbo. Now after replacing quite a few parts, the "check engine" light keeps coming on. Here's what I've done so far.

1. changed fuel pressure regulator (as per another post here, oil smelled like gas)
2. changed crank speed sensor behind engine below distributor ( intermittent speedo problems)
3. changed rear ABS/Speed sensor (again, intermittent speedo problems and ABS light doesn't want to go off)
4. changed knock sensor (doesn't like hills anymore, and bad gas mileage)
5. changed radio noise suppression relay (above battery)

And then drove car, speedo works, and then going up a little hill, "check engine" light came on. Got all the parts from FCP Groton. I took out #5 and put in old relay and noticed old relay was quite warm. Is this normal? "Check engine" light didn't come back on, until I just took the car out. I assumed new relay was wrong. But problem is still occurring.

#3, the ABS/Speed sensor delivered from FCP Groton (on differential) is not the same as the old one on my car. I assume, after market, but it did fit my car. Old ABS/Speed sensor has two lines (magnets maybe)on the end of the silver cylinder. New one only has a protruding nipple. Is this a problem?


#4, Knock sensor is supposed to be tightened to a specific lbs. but I couldn't find the info, I don't own a torque wrench, and just gently tightened it. I remember reading here, if "lock tight" is used it should be 13 lbs. But I was going to have the garage I have work done at do it correctly this coming week. Is this my problem?

Oh, about 3 yrs ago, the odometer stopped working and I had 143,000 miles on it, bought it used 7 yrs ago, this past May. I was one of those people that hit the "trip clear button" while the car was driving...I'm guessing I have about 180,000 on it now.

I've put a lot of time and care into this dang car and now it seems like everything is just "happening", despite my best efforts. I have a head gasket leaking oil. The garage never saw a head gasket do it, but now they have, my car. It looks like there's oil getting into the coolant reservoir and possibly my rear main seal is going.

I did change the flame trap and cleaned the black box thingy it was attached to last year, just hoping that was the problem. Had the front seals replaced last year too after finding out about the flame trap clogging and causing too much engine pressures.

Car wouldn't start last week unless I put it in neutral, just once and now it starts fine. I do have a new neutral safety switch that the garage was going to put in this coming week (the linkage underneath car is really rusted and I'm afraid I'll break it).

I've read about the instrument cluster needing to be taken out and tightened and possibly re-soldiered, I'm sure I could get it out, but the soldiering is beyond me and I currently don't know anyone that could do it for me, the tachometer is "jumpy" and sometimes the "speedo" too.

Sorry for telling all, I hope I didn't forget anything.

Is the incorrect torque on the knock sensor or the wrong radio noise suppression relay the cause for "check engine" light coming on? Or the wrong ABS/Speed sensor?

Oh, one last request, could anyone tell me the sensor that is almost directly above the knock sensor directly attached to the engine? The wiring harness and some of the wire housing just fell off it. Is it possible I broke that replacing knock sensor? I had to move the wiring there to get to the bolt for the knock sensor.

I'm truly grateful for any and all input and help....This is my second Volvo and I don't want to give it up...

Gerri

P.S. this is my short list, I've done so many more things, I think I'm almost a qualified 1992 940 Volvo mechanic...

I recently drove up to Alaska from Tennessee in my Volvo 960. It was one of the best things I've ever done, but some family issues are calling me back home quickly. I can't bring myself to drive back the Alaskan Highway in the winter time, so I'm forced to sell it and fly back.

I have need some help on pricing my car. It's a 1997 Volvo 960 wagon with 200k miles. It has brand new tires on it, still with an 80k mile warranty, a new radiator and it really runs great. It has one main problem which is the heater-core, it's totally blown and it's going to cost a lot to repair. The interior and everything is in great shape. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all, just joined this forum as I am looking for a Volvo estate as a workhorse. Are there any buying tips or guides around for 940/960 or 850. I have never owned one of these motors before so just don't know what to look for and what to avoid.

I have found a 1995 940 2.3 SE Turbo Auto in reasonable condition, 175,000 miles that I can get for £500 with 12 months MOT on it, but to be honest the turbo and auto put me off. How reliable are the Turbo and Auto box on these cars.

Are there any other regular issues with this model that I should be looking for?
How easy to get and cheap are are spares. Fr example what if the turbo or the auto box were a problem - huge cost or not?

Any help, guidance, advice or other comments welcome. As I say I have never owned a Volvo before so really don't know much about them.

Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in anticipation of your help.
Chris

Guys thanks for all the help with my last post. Any possibility that I could change my own head gasket if I've never done one? I had my car taken in to have the neutral safety switch replaced (even with the instructions I've read, and having everything removed around the shifer, I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the dang thing out) and to find out where exactly my oil leak was coming from and the garage showed me it's actually coming from my head gasket on the exhaust side. I'm not getting antifreeze in the oil but oil is going into the antifreeze...somehow???

And their price to replace the head gasket, $600+ just for labor, not including having the head set out to be machined or the gasket set itself.

I love my car, but it's getting to be too expensive, in the last three weeks alone, I've spent a little over $1000, mostly on parts, mind you and I've put almost all of them in myself.

But I was looking for an honest answer, do you think someone with limited experience, such as myself, could replace the head gasket themselves on my car? I've been looking at the design of my B230 engine and there isn't that much on it. Removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, doesn't look too hard, removing the belts, water pump etc, not too hard either. Actually removing the head, I don't know though??

Are there any dangers I should be aware of if I try? Does the head actually need to be machined down? I thought that replacement head gasket sets were made thicker to account for any warping in aluminum heads, making it unnecessary to machine?

Any suggestions would help,

Thanks again,
Gerri

Hi! Our front passenger power seat started acting funny the other day; we slid it all the way forward to make room for some crap on the floor of the back seat and when we tried to slide it back again, it would only move along the left seat rail; it won't budge along the right rail (this is causing the seat to want to torque counter-clockwise as the left moves and the right doesn't).

Listening carefully, I can hear what sounds like a whirring from both sides of the seat... but regardless, the right side is completely stuck. I've looked as closely as I can underneath and I don't see anything that could possibly be causing an obstruction and we're at a loss.

Any thoughts?

First my left headlight stopped working. Then the right. High beams work fine. The right turn signal stays on if the lights are turned on. If I turn on the parking lights (middle position on the switch) only the right one (same light as the turn signal)comes one.

I've replaced the Light Control Relay with one from ebay and nothing changed. If I remove the relay, the high beams work only when the stalk is held toward me. I'm going to start cleaning connections and grounds. Any suggestions on where I should focus my efforts would be most welcome.

Thanks,
Ben

Hello,

Had a 2.3L turbo engine put in my 2L turbo 1991 940 (after I killed that engine). All ancillaries original.

Recent problem may or may not be related? Anyway, battery keeps losing charge.

Had battery that had been in approx. 5 years, kept losing charge so had it replaced with 2nd hand one (Volvo garage I use, supply & fit used spares, had some other stuff done, asked them to check alternator before just sticking another battery in). Same thing, after a couple of weeks went dead. Charged up that one a few times, then bought a nice new one, same again, went dead after a couple of weeks.

For example, had fully charged battery, drove about 150 miles no problems. No dash lights indicating problems come on, no misfire. Came back to car, battery dead. So it must be running off the alternator, at least a bit, but not charging battery? No other drain (interior light left on etc). Just been on holiday for two weeks, got into my car, started no problem, used for a couple of short (6 miles) commutes, and the battery is dead again.

Is it time for a new alternator, or is it something else? Any suggestions gratefully received (apart from the “fix it with petrol, a rag and a match”)

I have a 97 960 sedan, And the red radiator light is on, not sure exactly what that means, but There is a hose that is not connected in the engine compartment, and i cant figure out where it goes, i am including pictures of the location of the hose, I live in a very small town, No volvo mechanics here. I assume the hose not being connected is probably the reason the radiator light is on. I am getting ready to drive the car 1200 miles next weekend and need to make sure its not gonna die. The car does drive like it should though, just dont want this to turn into a huge problem.
Please help!

The hose does suck some air when the car is running.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide!







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My husband would like to repair power seats himself. He has already taken seats out, does anyone know if the cables could be the problem and how to repair.

Hi, new guy here. I just picked up a 1991 Volvo 940 Turbo model 2.3L 4 cylinder with a fuel pump problem. It has the Bosch style setup with 2 pumps and they failed due to buildup in the tank. The bottom of the tank is filled with brown black goop so I'm dropping the tank soon to clean it out.

Now my question is while taking a look at everything it seems I need another fuel sending unit as well because this one is not working properly with the gauge on the dash. Any suggestions as to where to look as the only one I've found is here

A little on the pricey side, can anyone suggest a site/place/anything cheaper? Also, any tips for cleaning a gas tank? I've never had to drop a tank before I figured I'd just spray hot water in with some ajax dish soap and air dry for a day or two. and where is the relay for the fuel pump? I can't seem to find a Haynes manual for this model Volvo anywhere local. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

My '97 960 has had a complete braking light failure. Have T/S as much as I possibly can w/o schematics and have yet to find anything. All wires in the trunk ohm out perfectly. Have power to the fuse and the fuse is good with power to the other side of the fuse. Brake switch ohms out good when pressed however there is no poer to either one of the wires to the switch. Please help if you can. I am an aircraft electrician and know how to shoot wires but I can't go much farther w/o a schematic b/c I don't particularly feel like tearing into the main bundles. So if anyone has seen this problem before and has any ideas or if someone could provide me with some schematics I would be eternaly gratefull. Thanx - K_LAB

Hello, please if someone can help me telling me where can I download the owners manual for 940 1996(estate), engine B230 FK, I can only found until 1995.

Thanks,

Diego

I have a 1992 940 GL with the Regina fuel system. My daughter was driving it to work one day and was run off the road. The car slid and hit one of the marker posts along the road. The post hit the driver's side rear door and the fuel tank. She continued to work, but then the car would not start. I checked the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump was running, but it would not start. I towed the car home, charged the battery and the car restarted. I replaced the exhaust and bent rim and drove the car a few times around town, but then it would not start again.I have spark and if I remove the fuel line and crank the engine I will get fuel to the fuel rail. It seems like this line should be pressurized when I remove it, but it is dry. I see that the Bosch injection sysytem has a fuel check valve, is there anything in the Regina system to hold the fuel pressure? I changed the fuel pump relay and the noise suppression relay and got the car running and drove it to work a few days, but now I have the same problem once again. When it was running, it would only start after an extended period of cranking. Any help would be appreciated!!!

We have a 740 GLE which gets great mileage Just bought a 960 and we are only getting 10MPG is this normal or do we need to change some things to improve mileage per gallon Maurice Phillips

I have a strange problem with a 1998 volvo 960
my lights and windows dont work with the engine running but they work with just the ignition on, windows and lights work fine if i just switch on the ignition but as soon as i start the engine no windows or lights work

My 1992 940 gl(non turbo) died and would not stsrt. I have spark,fuel,fuel pressure,compression,and the timing belt is good. I do not have injector pulse. My question is; is the ECM the one and only culprit if everything else is working? I'd hate to buy an ECM and find out that an inline fuse or something simple was at fault.

I have a 1993 940 turbo wagon that has an idling problem. When the car gets hot, it won't idle when restarted. I have to wait for it to cool down. For no apparent reason, I removed and replaced the oil cap. It seemed to work, but I don't want to do that all the time. Any idea what's wrong?

From what I have seen the interiors are fine but what is with the typical disturbance on the door cards when the material folds? What causes this? I have noticed it only occurs on the 900 series.

I took my car to autozone and they hooked it up to the tester. It read back about 5 codes all saying cylinder misfire. He suggested a tune up possibly. Didn't have the money to get it worked on until today, but last night of course after I drove about 20 minutes out into the country to a friends house it decided it didn't want to start. I have a brand new battery. There is no noise when I turn the key. Any idea? Thanks so much for your help.

I have a 92 940 volvo. I was driving to work today and it just cut off no specal lights came on or anything it didnt even make a different sound i didnt know it cut off till i tried to stop. It starts but will not crank i can say when i try to start it sounds like something is missing. Any and all help is acceptable...

I have just lived thru this. This info is good for 740s 760s and 940s. If you get the orange arrow on the dash and your car wont shift gears. START WITH THE OVERDRIVE RELAY. I never had a problem with my 760 and it had 350,000 miles. My 940 has 212,000 miles and I fixed it.

The relays on the 940 are behind the fuses which are behind the ashtray. Go ahead and remove the box with the lighter and also the radio to get to relays. The overdrive relay is way on the right side and is white.

Go to www.fcpgroton.com and order the relay. If you order before 2pm (eastern time) the order will ship SAME DAY. (it is $29 plus shipping) There are relays on Ebay, but I think they are used. I just put in the $29. for peace of mind.

IF this does not fix the problem, IPD sells a bypass kit for $49 which attaches to the transmission. they are at www.ipdusa.com. Good luck to everyone. START WITH THE RELAY !!!

May have two (or many more) problems. Originally fan did not come on or show any power at teh rad mounted sensor. I replaced a seriously corroded cooling relay and I know have power at the sensor. I can now make the fan come on by jumping the two contacts there. However, The does not come on with engine idling on it's own. I used an infrared heat gun yesterday to measure various temps as it ran. Sighting the gun to a spot on the block (not head) just below the thermostat housing I got temps that rose as high as 215f before I pulled the plug on this experiment and jumped the fan. The thermostat appears to kick in at about 160f or so. It does function properly as the rad and hoses heat up as they should. The coolant level rose in the reservoir from the min to the max line at the same time the engine got to 215. Should I assume the radiator mounted sensor/switch is out of service?. At the same time, the dash water temp gauge rose up to just over the halfway mark and stopped despite the water temp obviously still heating up considerably more. Is this another fault sensor or a dash gauge pod issue? I believe there is a block temp sensor under the intake. The car is new to me and just sorting out various DPO issues.

Hi all,

I am so close yet so far in removing an AC compressor from my 1996 960. I have all bolts off with the notable exception of the lower right back bolt. It is free of the nut but I cannot pull it out because of a large metal bracket that is in the way. I have no idea how to get that bracket out of the way as it is buried very deep. The other bolt is the top left back bolt which I can just barely see but have no idea how I could get to with anything tough enough to remove it. I have been working from the top and mostly bottom of the car and everything else has been very easy to get to.

I am beginning to think that it is necessary to remove the steering pump and alternator to get to that upper left bolt but I do not want to do that unless it will do the trick. Even if I can get to that bolt by removing the stuff above it I do not know how I will be able to back out that bottom back right bolt.

Has anyone out there actually removed this compressor and lived to tell about it?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
1996 960 Hi all,

I am so close yet so far in removing an AC compressor from my 1996 960. I have all bolts off with the notable exception of the lower right back bolt. It is free of the nut but I cannot pull it out because of a large metal bracket that is in the way. I have no idea how to get that bracket out of the way as it is buried very deep. The other bolt is the top left back bolt which I can just barely see but have no idea how I could get to with anything tough enough to remove it. I have been working from the top and mostly bottom of the car and everything else has been very easy to get to.

I am beginning to think that it is necessary to remove the steering pump and alternator to get to that upper left bolt but I do not want to do that unless it will do the trick. Even if I can get to that bolt by removing the stuff above it I do not know how I will be able to back out that bottom back right bolt.

Has anyone out there actually removed this compressor and lived to tell about it?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
1996 960

When I step on the brake, I hear a swishing sound like air escaping from some where.
Does anyone have any ideas? Please help.

A long story so I will keep it terse. I am in a position of having to remove the starter motor but I cannot see it for all the tubing and cross members etc. Where the hell is it?

I have had my 1992 volvo 940 at a mechanic now for 3 weeks and seem to be going nowhere just after some advice. When I bought the car it ran fine after the 1st fill up of the tank the emission control lamp came on and started running rough when at operating temperature, ran fine when cold. It got to the point when puliing up at traffic lights or stopped in traffic the car wanted to or would stall but only when at operating temperatir. So far external pump has been replaced, fuel regulator replaced, air flow regulator replaced, fuel rail cleaned, injectors cleaned. Now the problem now is the car will crank but wont fire. Any help please????

i recently picked up a volvo oil cooler setup however i'm missing one of the banjo bolts that connects the line to the sandwich plate. I went to the volvo dealership today and they looked up the 740 and 760 for me yet they show a different type of line that doesn't use the banjo bolt. does anyone know what kind of volvo utilized these lines? or does anyone happen to have a part # for the banjo bolt? in the pic the lines have been cut smaller and the sandwich plate has been mounted on a vw but they show the type of lines that I have.

There is an original anti sway bars in my Volvo 940 .Does the ipd anti sway bars, chassis braces add a change of car handling or this will be A waste of money?
Thanks

Dual fuel 940 1991 giving me grief and I'm working blind without a clue
to the sensors locations

An ECU flow chart would also be fantastic as I'm considering modifying/conditioning some of the inputs to change some parameters when I'm running on gas.

IE. does the lambda input alter the timing as well as the fuel?, does
the ign advance to the point the knock sensor tells it to back off?
__________________________________________________
Shocks and struts
Shock absorber
Ford shocks and struts

I recently purchased a 96 Volvo 960 with 89k+ miles on it. I've pulled the engine/transmission to put into a 95 960 and I'm doing the timing belt. The engine has an oil leak which I suspect was coming from a cam cover bolt or or broken O-ring or something. I will be replacing the oil filler cap gasket as soon as the engine is in, but since I'm doing the timing belt as well and the fact that the previous owner tightened the cam cover bolts I might as well make sure. Oil is pooling around cylinder 5 and 6, but I can see a small amount actually in cylinder 5 spark plug well. When I ran the engine previously, it was burning oil as made apparent by the smoke blueish/black smoke from the tailpipe. I've bought the chemical gasket for the cam cover and new cam seals and spark plug O-rings. I need help in finding the best way to separate the valve cover. I have a service manual which says "tap top half off gently with plastic mallet by prying lugs and front ends of camshafts." This might be a stupid question but where are these prying lugs? I haven't taken off the cam pulleys, because I haven't fashioned a counter hold yet. I don't want to damage anything so I wanted to get an idea of the procedure others have used. If you have any tips or suggestions I'm all ears.

Thanks

I noticed a green fluid trickling from under my Volvo GL Estate 940 last night - I checked the coolant reservoir and it is empty - -

What is the best coolant to buy?

Is it safe for me to drive 14 miles to MRG in Chippenham to get it?

Thanks for helping a beginner

This will kind of rambling because my head is starting to spin. I am beginning to think the PO disconnected because he could not figure out what was wrong.

It started when I was working on getting the AC going on my new to me 93 940 (built 7 92). Somehow I got the compressor going from a possibly stuck position. I attempted to refill the system but either my low mechanical aptitude kicked in or there is a big leak. I retreated from that and made an appt at a friend's AC shop to get it going from my progress. During this I did have the low pressure switch jumped to make the compressor come on to help recharging.

While doing this, the car appeared to overheat with coolant wanting to push out of the overflow. I noticed the fan was not going. I had never had the problem before this time. The only difference between this idling session and others was I had the compressor running via a jumper at the low pressure cut off switch. Is there some correlation between teh AC compressor now working and the cooling fan not?
I have spent quite a bit of time in the FAQ sections. The fan spins freely. I find neither wire going to the temp sensor in the upper right radiator with the engine off or on. I cant jump it from there by connecting it to teh battery direct. jumping both leads together does not do anything. The car did sit for four years. I cleaned the ground on the front wall by the battery. IS there a way to see how the cooling relay is working? (course you have to take the battery out pretty much).

I also noticed that teh gauge on teh dash was not showing it was really very hot. I do not think it was 3/4 to teh hot.

I notice in some online reference sites that there is often mention of early and late 940's with many differences in the heating and cooling electronics. Can this quantified by VIN or production date? I come across this often with m MGs but there is a good record keeping on the VIN split. My 940 was made 7/92


When I was going over the AC, I found the three switches down on the bottom of the evaporator (the high pressure etc) all disconnected (probably the DPO by my guess. Was he dealing with over heating and sacrificed the AC to keep the car running rather than fix the problem?
Sorry to be so rambling but I have been so involved under the hood of this car that I was getting a headache. I will need to buy beer for lots of people out there when this is done.

Hello, all.

I'm new to this forum since I recently bought a 1995 Volvo 960, 131K miles. Runs great. But, theres some oil in the galley under the spark plug access plastic cover. I replaced the rubber O-ring on the oil filler cap and it made no difference. Any ideas as to where the oil might be coming from?

(Yes, I did search the threads in this forum before posting.)

Cheers,

Dave

Ok ...I am just trying to help out a single mother with very little money.

When she asked me to fix it for her I said yes, she said all it needed was the fuel pump in the tank.
I changed the pump in the tank and the other fuel pump underneath was changed prior to me getting the car to fix.
well ..of course that was not her problem..the fuel system has great pressure

It has no spark or even power to the coil...

I changed the CPS and checked for spark...yes it had spark..thought it was fixed so I put the trickle charger on it
overnight to give it a good charge..tried it the next morning ...NO SPARK again..walked away came back the next day
and it had spark for a few seconds,then gone. There was power to the coil and I tested the coil to eliminate the coil..
coil is working...now there is not even any power going to the coil.

I even bought an ECM (ignition control module) that was known to be in good working order and it made no change.

I have cleaned and tested continuity between all ground wires and made sure all were tight.

I am not sure what to check next?? Why would it have spark sometimes but just for a few seconds..not long enough for the car to start?

I really want to get this car going for her as she has 2 kids ,2 jobs and no car so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Nick

My 1994 volvo won't run

My 1994 960 factory wheels are 195 65 R 15 (15x 6 wheel) and I was wondering if I could go up to a 16" tire specifically 205 55R 16? I want the Columba rims that were used on the S70 T5s/ Anyone know if these will fit or will they cause problems?
Thanks

New to me 940 wagon bought from original owner who had not run the car for 4 years. Despite that, I got in and drove the car 45 miles home (After adding four gallons of gas and a can of Seafoam to the four gallons in there) You have to love Volvos!!
So, the car in my driveway and going through faults getting it ready for inspection, I find the radio has no power, Looking at the manual, I find that is covered by fuse #5. Upon inspection, it is blown. I replace with another and it promptly blows as well. Thoughts? Is this a common weak area? I have a 740 and a 240 and have not had this issue.

I have a low mileage (about 85000) 1994 960 that turns off while I am driving. I have to put it in park and then it restarts right away..sometimes I make it home without it turning off again and sometimes I have to go through the whole turn off/restart cycle. We took it to a local Volvo repair shop and they reset the engine lights (a few times) and charged us alot of money to "maybe" fix the problem. Any advice on what it could be? The a/c does not work and the left passenger power window doesn't work either (if that helps)

Hi! I'm currently in the process of replacing my o2 sensor and am needing some help with the wiring. I'm replacing the original with a universal 3 wire and am unsure of the the wiring. The original has 2 whites and 1 black, which I'm taking a gander that the black is ground. Does anyone know what the 2 whites are? I've heard they both might be heat. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have a 1992 Volvo 940 Turbo Wentworth, 2.0 Petrol engine

When idling the boost gauge is at the very minimum, but when you put your foot down all the way at any time either when stationary or when on the move, the needle only goes half way and stops before it shows any proper boost.

There are no other running issues, the car runs and sounds brilliant but the turbo just isn't boosting, no noises coming from the turbo, no smoke from the exhaust, everything is sweet!

You can't feel the turbo trying to work either, just drives as if it was a non-turbo.

Any ideas anyone???

Many thanks,

Rich

Hey all that came to my post,

I am purchasing a Volvo 960 with 250K miles but there is a leaking head gasket as well as a coolant leak. Now I am hesitant and concerned that it will cost me quite a bit of money to repair, but I am wondering if i should go ahead and buy the car, or hold off. What would the estimate be if it was repaired compared to what it would be to be replaced. Any input on this would be greaaatly appreciate! Thank you,

-The non auto mechanic from VA

I'm working on my 1994 Volvo 940, which has a fuel pump problem. I am in the process of finding the fuel pump relay and cannot locate it.
Most Volvo 940s have the relays behind the ashtray in the dashboard.

However, the socket for this particular relay is empty on my car. I do know that there multiple versions of the 1994 Volvo 940 (non turbo) out there, and was wondering if someone could tell me where fuel pump relay might be.

P.S. I have found the noise suppression relay under the hood already.

Thanks for your help.

My tail lamps only work occasionally. I checked bulbs, fuses and the fuse sockets, but they all seem to be ok. Where should I go from here? Is this a common problem for my model?

Hi, I'm new to the form. I have a 1997 960 wagon. I have had brake light problem for awhile . But tonight I lost all the lights put the parking lights. I have checked the fuses. None are out. I do not have a mechanic to take it to with in 100 miles. So I need help. What do I need to look for?

DSC

Hello all,
I'm new to the Volvo world and to this forum. I bought my first Volvo ~10 days ago.
It's a 1994 960 3.0L 24V. I was looking for a 2nd car and the desire for a Volvo came after I drove my friend's 740.

The Lambda light is ON all the time. The previous owner said he replaced the air flow sensor but it requires reseting for the light to be turned Off. Is that true? Can you please advise?

Thanks,
Zvika

Well, after several years, I went out and bought another Volvo, a '94 960 sedan. It's been an excellent car so far. Everything aside the cruise control works, not sure how they go bad on a volvo, my last 240 wagon didn't have cruise.

My question is, it starts a bit hard. It doesn't like to start on the first crank and it seems it likes to have a little gas applied. I know it shouldn't matter what position the gas pedal is in, fuel injection doesn't care, at least it isn't supposed to. This is after it gets up to operating temperature.

Thanks,
Gunny

Hi, I bought a 94 940 turbo wagon recently with 184k. It's been running fine until recently that it develops an intermittent stalling problem. This only happens in start up (has not happened while driving, thank god!). I start the car, it idles low, the check engine light will come on. When I press the accelarator hard, the engine will die, otherwise it runs rough as if out of breath. Obviously, I can't drive it at all. I would leave the car for a while - hours, or next day, then it will start up and drives fine fine. I checked and cleaned the air flow meter - it seems to be fine.
Anyone has experienced this? What could it be? Please help! Thanks.