Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Hello again all, made a lot of headway with my air conditioning, but there's still one more problem

The clutch for the AC on my 97 960 (Auto ECC) cycles, 2 seconds or so on, 2 seconds or so off, repeatedly, several times until the clutch fuse finally burns. Any ideas?

I figure that the coil on the clutch needs to be replaced, but i'm not completely sure. I'd like to know a little more about the procedure before i start dismantling the thing, (it's in a pretty confined place, and i don't want to open the system).

The way I understand, you remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the clutch, pull off the clutch, remove the snap ring on the shaft, press off the pulley, remove another snap ring, then remove the coil.

Is this correct? has anyone ever done this before that could shed some light, or maybe a diagram

Thanks in advance for all your help, you guys are the best!!

Hi,
I have lost my spare key for a volvo 960 (1997). Does anyone know if I an get a replacement for less than $50? Do I have to go to a dealer or can I trust the car locksmiths?

thanks.

Had a new A/C compressor installed and had to take it back repeatedly because of A/C failure. Also, the car started running rough like the timing belt was slightly off, especially when running the A/C Fan at higher than 2. The repairman finally admitted he had installed the incorrect compressor. The A/C is fine now, but it seems like the timing is off in the same manner. Does one impact the other?

Thanks

does anyone know the location of the o/d relay? i am going to try and clean the connection to see if that will help my car into 4th gear, its been having trouble, it either works or it doesnt. and sometimes it will work if i make a hard right turn...i dont understand. by any way the location of that relay would be great Thanks.

Ed

Ok here goes. I have a 95 volvo 960 the car was running fine, my wife drove it all day, she parked the car for the night. I came out the next morning tried to start the car and it just rolled but would not even try to catch. Its getting fuel and a good spark. Im kinda mechanicall inclined, know a lot more about domestic cars, but I have never had to really do any work on the volvo besides basic maintenance. Any help or direction would be great.

Hi All-
I have a 960 Sedan (US Automatic) that has about 165,000 miles on the clock.

I've had the car since about 40,000 and have done nothing with the front suspension.

Cornering is solid as always but the strait tracking is getting just a bit twitchy, nothing dangerous but I can definitely feel some looseness since the last 30k miles or so. I recently upgraded to Michelin MX H4s which are top of the line. The overall ride is great but the Michelins do emphasize the twitchy feeling.

My mechanic is a no-nonsense guy who steers me away from excess maintenance. Does anyone have a suggestion on what would be a reasonable maintenance step to take on my front suspension. I think the springs are ok and the shocks (pushing on the hood and seeing the dampening) seem just fine. I've heard that bushings tend to go but haven't spotted anything specific on the thread about this.

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Grafton

Hi
I am in the process of buying a 1993 940 (190K miles, no turbo) , everything checks out but it has a motor oil drip from the rear of the block where it bolts up to the automatic transmission. I am having a tough time trying to figure out if it is the engine oil pan gasket or the rear main seal leaking . It is not coming from the valve cover or distributor seal .
I wiped it down but can't tell for sure , would a dye test be my best bet ? any ideas would be helpful .
Thank You for your time ,
David

Hi Everyone--

My ride is a red 94 940turbo sedan with 104K on the original motor. It's clean and the int is grey leather w/o much wear except for the drivers seat. I paid $400 for it knowing the head gasket went but bc it's got a decent motor to work on I decided to grab it and do the job myself. I have the torque wrench, pressure gage for the cylinders and most general tools.

So far, this is what I've done--
I've got all the hoses and piping off, cleaned and put aside. They were filled with gunk.
The Dist and wires are off as well.
I removed the entire air box and I think the air induction system (?) and cleaned them.
The oil is drained.
The rad is drained too but I think I need to find and drain the Intercooler too?

I'm in the process of removing the turbo but I'm currently stuck on one nut which is attached to the flange that secures the pipe to the turbo. I can't get a socket on it as the socket edge seems to be too thick to slide onto the nut. An open ended wrench gives me zero movement.

I also got the exhaust man nuts off but found that 3 of the threaded bolts which are threaded into the head came off with the nuts. Seems strange but I do know that a mechanic started to do this job but the lot owner made him put it all back together. The mechanic told me he had alot of parts off...which is why some of the hardware was only finger tite...but I have no explanation for the set bolts coming out with the nuts...Thoughts on this??

I'm using as my guide the Volvo service manual on DVD that I purchased for 15 dollars but it does not include a lot of photos to help with each task involved.

So--These are my questions--

1. Are there any job specific tools that I need to get, like for the belt tensioner..? Anything else?

2. Where is the drain for the Intercooler (does my turbo even have one?) I opened a pet **** on the lower left of the rad if you're in front of the car and looking at it. I assumed that was for the main rad but now I'm not so sure..

3. Whats with the exhaust man bolts coming off with the nuts? Do they need to be tourqed? If so, then how?

4. I'm a clean-as-you-go guy so whatever I take off gets cleaned and inspected. I also clean the motor, as well as parts that I'd normally not have access to with the removed part still on. Is there anything I should look at, inspect or replace as a result of the blown head? water pump? thermostat?

5. Where do I need to apply thread sealer when I start bolting everything back together?

6. Finally..a request...can anyone link me to images of this motor (B230T) or possibly a step by step home made process list of this job?

Thank you for taking the time to read this post and please let me know if more info is required!

tom lauranzano

ey guys!

as you already know i'm a new driver of 940 GLT with B234F engine. i'm going to buy me a repair manual for my new brick and i'm a bit confused wich one to take...

i heard that in haynes is nothing about my engine but after all if it is ok for other things...B?

any suggestions?

tnx

Hello Volvo folks!

I am driving my girlfriend's 1996 960 for the summer, and it has the typical a/c vacuum troubles. I'd love a trouble shooter on how to remedy that temporarily...

But my MAIN question is: How the heck do you check the auto tranny fluid on this beast? I can't find a dipstick, and the owner's manual doesn't shed any light. Is it a sealed kind of "lifetime lubricated" sort of transmission that i'm not supposed to touch, or is it under the car in an inconvenient place? I've heard good things about this transmission, so I can't imagine it's uncheckable...

any help?

thanks!

~charles

Hi !
I've recently bought a '96 960 3ltr 24v estate. So, what's the first thing every new owner gets....yep, the dreaded Haynes Manual !!!
But....they don't seem to do one for the 3ltr 960 !!

Do I just buy the one that covers the 940 & 960 ?

Does anyone else do manuals ?

Thanks
Jock

My '94 volvo 940 cabin blower/fan volume seems to vary dramatically during acceleration . When I brake or coast the speed will come back to full power.
I notice this mostly when the control knob is on main dash vents. If I turn off the blower switch I can hear a slight hiss from the direction knob. This does not occur when it is in the floor, defrost or combo positions. I do not notice the variation in speed/volume when the in the other 3 locations... only main dash vent.
I assume this is a vacuum leak. How do I get to the back of the blower switch and vent control switch?
My car has 201k and is otherwise going great!
Thanks All
I hope I did this properly.

All,
We have a 1993 940 4cyl non-turbo that is making a loud clicking noise while accelerating. I thought it was a sticky lifter, so I tried some sea foam. ...after a few weeks of not driving the car myself, only my wife was driving. I drove the car today and noticed the noise was louder, but would disappear while I would cruise at 2K rpm and 45 mph. As soon as I accelerated, the noise comes back.

I thought the following could be the issue;

sticky lifter - but why would it get louder when accelerating and clikcing noise is not a frequent and RPMs would indicate.
injectors - but the care accelerates fine, no surges and it idles smooth.

head gasket - but I would see white smoke, right?

exhaust leak - how do i confirm and why would is disappear at 2K rpm when cruising?

exhaust banging against underside of car - will investigate this one tonight.

Any ideas guys?

Thanks!

John

Hey all,

I was driving with my AC on when all of a sudden, the AC turned off. I have voltage at the cycling switch, continuity at the cycling switch, and the clutch comes on if i push the relay manually, everything is there. Except somehow I don't have 12 volts at the coil for the relay. What is between the pressure cycling switch and the relay? The cycling switch feeds to the ECU, IIRC. But where does the relay get ITS juice from?

Please folks, were at 100 degress, 100% humidity here daily. I need your help!

Thanks!

Dan

I have a 1993 940 with a B230F engine which is displaying a persistent fuel code 223. The book says it's "Idle Air Control Valve Signal Absent or Faulty".

It starts, drives & idles normally and the fuel consumption is right close to the EPA estimate. The idle is smooth with only a little bit of speed hunting and it also idles normally with the air conditioner engaged. The IACV is the two-terminal variety, (p/n 13895570) and it works. If I put voltage on the terminals, the valve opens. (verified on the bench) Back in the car, the engine quits immediately when I unplug the IACV's electrical connector. The engine will restart only if I have my foot on the throttle pedal and it quits again when I let off.

The only sign that there's actually something wrong with this engine's idling is the mixture. During fast idle, (1200-1500 rev/min, manually forced with the pedal) the exhaust is stoichiometric and steady. Left to idle on its own, it enriches to about 12:1 and the analyzer indication is twitchy. Not cyclical, as if one cylinder were running rich, but random. I don't have an exhaust-gas analyzer which I can use on the road.

Short of the black-tape solution, any ideas?

I have a 960 Turbo Wagon which I bought about a month ago. The battery is weak, and it has had to be jump started a few times after listening to the stereo in concert parking lots. Once in a while, after driving briefly, it has to sit for 10 minutes before it will start again. Today I opened the hood to check for corrosion on the battery connectors, and noticed moisture on the outside of the engine block.
The car has never overheated, and never leaked any fluids. I was running the a/c (which sometimes stops blowing fully when going up hills, but otherwise works ok; I'm guessing the a/c issues are probably attributable to the weak battery) about halfway up while driving for about 15 minutes.
Is it a safe assumption that the moisture was just condensation from the a/c?

Other than this, the car has been running beautifully. I've put almost 6,000 miles on it since I bought it, and I'm growing to like it more every day. I'm confident it will get me through fall Widespread Panic tour very efficiently...

Hi
I'm looking for an estate and have seen a V70 and a 960 both autos which would transport our dogs. Anyone got any views on preference. I know the 960 is rear drive and is huge but it's going relatively cheaply and is a 2 owner with 125,000 miles and loads of history. The V70 is obviously younger (last of the flat sided ones on a W plate) and more expensive but a 1 owner with 74,000 miles. Both have all the options like cruise etc.
I'm drawn to the 960 as I love big cars but the age puts me off a little (1996). I've owned a V70 before and it was brilliant 160,000 miles and it still drove like it had just come out of the factory.
Any advice gladly received.

I've had my 1996 960 for a few months. It developed an issue with the a/c system. I was cruising along and it went from blowing cold to full on heat. Shortly after, found when i accelerated the fan slowed down to a low speed from high. As soon as I let off the pedal at speed, it sped back up. a few miles down the road it started blowinc ice cold. Any ideas on whats causing this to happen?

95 960 151K. Runs great when wife drives to/from work, but after shutting down for 15-20 min then driving again, it stalls. Throwing codes 113 and 115 about every third time it happens. Previously replaced ECT sensor for similar problem (regardless of temp). ECT is working, wiring harness for injectors has been wrung out and repaired. (I pulled the intake and checked all of the harnesses routing under there the last time for brittle/worn wires). The fan does not stay on after key off. Is this normal for 960? Fan relay self test OK and have power thru hot fusible link. My cheesy Chilton print shows the A/C system related to the fan thru the ECM, but have no diagnostics for ECC system. Out of ideas now, any help appreciated.

By the way, great forum. All the work I did I found out about here!

Hey all. Due to a timing belt that snapped while going down the interstate (my brother was delivering the car to me), I'm arranging to have a new to me engine put in my 1996 960 and I'm curious as to what everyone thinks about replacing the rear main seal. Is this a part that should be replaced while the engine is out and on a stand, or are rear main seal failures a rare enough occurrence with this engine that I should just leave well enough alone? I'd be thankful for the opinions of those of you that have driven one of these cars for a while.

I have a 1995 940 Turbo Volvo Sedan and my brake pedal is not as high as I would like it to be. I've been told it just needs a rear brake adjustment, as there are no leaks in my system. How difficult is that and do I need a special tool? Thanks for any help you can give me!

I've got a 945 nonturbo and at my local junkyard is a 945 turbo from which the junker will sell me the turbo and manifold for 150 bucks. Seems like a steal to me, if of course, the turbo is in good order. (the car was wrecked with 70000 miles!!)

Already pulled a climate control head from the car, so the junker knows me

anyway, what else is there to it, other than installing the turbo and manifold, rerouting the intake and installing a chargecooler, that i need to do to turn my 940 into a 940T? Super excited about this, I like my cool and collective 964, but the 945 has a sporty edge to it that i just cant get enough of- more so with the turbo i'd imagine.

So in short,

Do i just install the turbo and rumble? or do i need to do things to the ignition and fuel systems (or are they the same)? What, if anything else, do i need to do other than just drop this joe into the car?

Thanks tons guys and gals!

there were 2 ports aside fron the oil feed and return line.... i just asumed it was for an oil coiler...


well i bout one and put it on and when i unhooked it today nothing has done through it....

and i can blow on one hose and the other one blocked off and build pressure...


so what im asking is is this was actually a water cooled jacket or if it takes its own seperate oil feed for these lines or what?


this is not installed in a volvo but instead using the turbo for a project of mine, it came of a 91 940 turbo

Im having a problem with my OD,my car is stuck in 3rd gear and wont shift into 4th and its a real problem("Up" arrow wont go away), i did a little research on the forums and found out that removing thte OD relay and cleaning the terminals might fix it(or just buy a new one). I was trying to remove it today but it didnt wanna come out, how do i remove it exactly?

thank you

THe power steering on my Volvo 940 has become very heavy. Anyone have any ideas why this would happen? I changed the oil in it lately and put in a new power steering belt(properly tightened), but it hasn't helped. Any ideas?

I have a 95 volvo 960 that stalls and idles rough at times trouble code 241 what should I look at first

My first Volvo also. When the car sits for awhile, either overnight or for a couple of hours, the A/C seems to work good for about 20 minutes then starts blowing warm air.
I took it to the local garage, and they pumped the freon out and then refilled it to the proper level. Drove it home and it did the same thing, after 20 minutes, warm air.
I called them and they told me to bring it back so they would look further for issues. Maybe a sensor??
Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

Ey everyone, I just bought a used 1994 Volvo 940 Turbo wagon and very excited to make it my regular rider. Any folks have any experiences with therm, there drive train and any additional additives they'd like to share? It's been a great car.

Hi All,
Let me preface this by saying that I have had this 940 Turbo vehicle well maintained. However, two years ago the check engine light came on. The mechanics determined that it was the EGR valve and felt it was non critical. Theycleaned the valve, cleared the codes and the light stayed off for a day.
Within the last couple of months, they discovered melted wires (ie from ignition coil, near the fuel injector). After replacing the wires, the engine shakes when stopped in traffic. It now will also stall, either while stopped or when coasting. I must wait a minute before I can successfully start it.
The mechanics say no code is registering and they are trying to find a used computer (the one found in the panel beside the passenger's feet). They speculate that the wires may have provoked a computer flaw.
I find when the engine is cold, it does well in traffic with no engine shaking. When it's warmed up, issues start.
Any help or commisieration would really be appreciated. My mechanics have over forty years experience on most makes of cars.
I find I can no longer trust my once reliable car.
Help!!

The EGR light on my 1993 940 comes on occasionally. I checked and there are no codes to report. Most of the time, the car runs great. However, when I have driven it about an hour or so, the car will occasionally not start until it cools down. If I disconnect the battery and wait 20 minutes, it will start or I can wait for an hour and it will start. I have changed the two engine temperature sensors that are located under the area by the #1, and No. 3 sparkplugs. Unfortunately, the EGR light is staying on. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,

Bob Hinton
Clayton, NC

I have a '93 940 (not turbo).

While driving home from work last week, there was some horrible rattling under the hood. Eventually, it got worse, and I was somehow able to drive it to a mechanic. In front of the mechanic's garage, the coolant leaked EVERYwhere. Guy tells me I need a new water pump, thermostat, and drive belts.

I called my dad who knows a thing or two, and says because there are 190K miles on it, have him look at the timing belts, too. I ask him, and he says that'll take extra time (which seems kind BS because he was already on the water pump, whatever).

I get the timing belt replaced, mostly because it was due, and I'm trying to make a 1000 mile trip next week.

Today, 5 days later, the oil light comes on far too often and the car smells like heat (if that makes sense-- like what the car feels/smells like just before the grill fan turns on). When I opened the hood, the engine was far too hot. The oil level was normal, and all the other fluids are level.

Dad seems to think the timing belt might not have been aligned properly. Would that explain the overheating/oil problem?

I had an oil change about 5,000 miles ago, could it just be that? THe oil filter is on fine... or could it be way too many other things, that I should just take it to another mechanic?

Thanks for any insight.

Helo everybody
I installed a an almost new external electric heated and sterred mirror .
When i connected it ,I test it by a small joystick in drivers door.It moves up and down right but when wants mowe left or right it moving again up or down...hmmm??
Where to look and where schould I find a problem???JOYSTICK OR MIRROR is a problem
My car has earlier manual sterred mirrors but it had a full installation inside doors for upgrade it.
Car is 1993 and mirror is 1996.All connections and cable colours are ok(match).
PLEASE HELP ME
Marek from Poland

I have a Volvo Guard alarm fitted to a 1995 940, which has entered an the active-immobilised state. Essentially it has been triggered several times without the remote control fob present to enable it to be disabled. Even with the remote available, it is still not possible to disable or reset the alarm. It is also not possible to start the vehicle.

The remote control fob has been checked and is apparently transmitting.
The remote control batteries have been replaced to ensure maximum transmission signal.
The alarm has been allowed to has been allowed to trigger, run until the timer ends and the alarm shuts off. The remote key fob has then been reprogrammed to the alarm (the 5-key turn technique).

The dealer has told me that the alarm has probably locked-out and the vehicle will need to be towed in to be reset by them.

The remote control fob is the grey single button, rectangular type with the blue frequency band indicator.
The transmitter is using a UK-allocated frequency with a UK market vehicle.
The alarm has previously worked with the remote control fob, so it is presumably the correct model/type and correctly programmed to the vehicle.
The alarm has the triangular, windscreen A-pillar mounted status panel/transceiver.

I therefore have the following questions:-

1 - Is it possible to reset the alarm control unit off the vehicle?

2 - Does resetting the alarm control unit require the remote fob to be available?

3 - Is the bonnet sensor simply a magnetically operated reed switch?

4 - What are the states of the bonnet sensor with the bonnet open/closed?

5 - How do I tell if the alarm is just an alarm or an alarm/immobiliser?

6 - What are the designations of the three connectors plugged into the alarm control unit?
The top of the unit has a green 10-pin connector
The bottom of the unit has two 9-pin connectors, one pink, one black
These connectors appear to correspond to the drawing of the cabin cable harness (Part #9124692) shown in the parts catalogue.
However, the connectors do not seem to correspond to the D2 or D3 connectors shown in the main Volvo Wiring Manual, or are D2/D3 on the other end of the cabin cable harness?

7 - Was the VolvoGuard system a factory-only install, or was it also fitted pre-delivery by dealers?

8 - Were there any permanent changes made to the vehicle wiring circuits during the installation of VolvoGuard?
I.e wires cut, circuits bridged, jumpers installed, wiring changes made, etc

9 - If the alarm control unit is replaced (due to failure), do any other ECUs have to be replaced or reprogrammed to match the replacement unit?


Photos of VolvoGuard Receiver Unit (2), Control Unit (3) and Window Label (1).

electrical problem.

940 with 150xxx miles

last week the car would start and run fine. wednesday, the car would display all lights working, radio, blower... but would not attempt to turn over or start. put the car in nutral and it started. next attempt to start while in park worked.

friday, same issue. tried a few times and it started while in nutral. *automatic*

saturday, will not turn over in any gear selection.

has anyone else had this problem or know of a fix?
thanks

Sometimes whilst driving along, engine stops. Engine management light comes on. Engine will restart fine in a few seconds but engine management light stays on.

Have replaced ECU (0280000976) on advice of garage (garage said the two ECUs were not communicating). This however, has not solved the problem.

Can you help ?

I have no continuity from battery negative to the chassis, and this is worrying me. Among other things, it's causing my AC to not kick on due to the lack of ground.

The only ground i can find is on the back of the head and is a thin, flat, ground strap from the head to the firewall. Does anyone know where the other ground straps are and where battery negative connects to? My 945 has a typical ground on the frame, and so did my old 245, but the only place i can get continuity from the frame to the battery is RIGHT AT the point where the ground strap behind the head meets the frame.

Can someone please give me an idea where the engine grounds are? the mounts, being rubber, don't seem to be a likely ground.

Thanks so much for your help!

I have a 92 volvo 940 turbo. Is there a front suspension diagram available to download? I need to change all the rubber components; stabilizer bushings, lower control arm bushings etc and want to get everything I need. The books I have don't display details I'm looking for.

I am selling my 940 turbo on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

the other day I started my 96 960 and was checking the tire pressure when it stalled. I thought this was odd so I got in to restart it but spuddered a little but would not start. Had heard this kind of spuddering before on a van the the timing had gone on that we had to junk because it tore up the engine so I did not try again. Upon removing the cover for the timing belt I can see that the tensioner has lost all of its bearings. the question is how do I remove this tensioner with out messing up the timing anymore then it is now and does anyone have the proper instructions to fix this so that I can get back on the road. is it worth the time as the engine might be toast

PS I think that the tensioner had been gone for awhile as the cover had a groove in it where the belt rides to the point that in one spot it wore completely thru

thanks in advance for the help

Hello,

I was wondering which wires correspond to the positive and negative wires routing to my rear deck speakers. One is Orange and WHITE, and the other is orange and Black. The orange/white cable
leads to a solid black cable that hooks up to the speaker, and the orange/black cable leads to a solid white cable that hooks to the speaker. Can anyone identify which (orange/color) speakers correspond to positive and negative? See Picture. I drive a Volvo 960, if that is any help.

Thanks.

Hi, all. I'm not entirely new here but I can't recall which of the wife's email addresses I'm registered with (the wagon is technically her's, though I drive it more than she does).

Anyway... I didn't replace a worn-out t-belt tensioner soon enough and now I have to deal with the expected result. I've decided my best bet is a complete salvage head... but here's where my confusion lies: the car is a 1995 960. However, there is "93" stamped on the valve cover, leading me to think that it's not the original head or maybe not the original engine. From what I can tell, it seems the 1992-94 cylinder heads interchange with each other, and '95 thru '97 are a totally separate interchange.

Is this correct? And how can I tell which I've got?

Any assistance or advice in this matter would be greatly appreciated!

Hello All, i'm trying to find the thermal fan switch on my 97 960, but it's not on the top of the radiator like all of my resources say, does anyone know where this little guy is? Any help is appreciated!

Where is the diagnostic harness fitting located.
I took the car to AutoZone who offer free readout but they couldn't find the fitting.

I remembered!
-type44q

Hello All, My name is daniel and I send my greetings from the south of Texas.

This question is in regards to the Air Conditioning on my 97 964. Basically, the AC wont turn on.

I got in the relay box under the hood, and took the cover off of the AC relay. Since the button on the dashboard wouldn't start it, I tried pushing the relay myself, and to my excitement, the compressor came on. The cooling fan, however, did not. I've tested the cooling fan, and it works- it spins and when i apply current to it, it starts up.

The fan did not come on with the compressor, but the refrigerant lines did become noticeably cooler. The air in the cabin was blowing, but not cooling effectively at all. I tried jumpering the low pressure switch on the receiver/dryer and the engine idled up, but the compressor would not kick on, nor would the fan. basically, the following is true.

-The ac does not turn on with the dashboard control panel.
-If I activate the relay by hand, the compressor will come on, but the cooling fan will not.
-If I jumper the low pressure switch on the receiver/dryer, the engine idles up, but neither the compressor nor fan comes on

If anyone has a schematic or wiring diagram of the AC on my 97 964, i might be able to trace the problem myself, or if anyone has come across this before, please let me know what you did. As i said, i'm in the south of texas and the summer lasts from January to December. Any help will be so greatly appreciated.

Thanks again!!

a buddy gave me one of these for a lil turbo project of mine... ive searched online and cant find the answer im looking for...

what is the internal wastegate set at from the factory... im not sure what year the car was but its def. a td04 15g from a 940 turbo...


thanks in advance

Hi,

New to the forum!

I bought a 1997 Volvo 960 Wagon. It ran ok, but there was a problem with the cylinder head - #5 intake valves were leaking.

So I pulled a head from a pick a parts and had it professionally pressure tested and measured. Cylinder Head shop gave it a thumbs up.

I buy new head gasket, front and rear seals, and head bolts. I install per the factory "Green" book service manual. I go to start the engine and first symptom is that the starting is really slow; check battery and enough juice. Pull spark plugs and there is coolant in all six cylinders.

No coolant in Oil!

My question is how could I get coolant in the cylinder chambers and not in the oil? There was no coolant even in the oil in the cylinder head. Just coolant in the cylinder chamber.



Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,

John

Hi,
Can anyone help?
I have a 1991, 940se estate and the engine cuts out from time to time while just driving normaly at a slow speed aroud 30mph.
I have read some other message sent and the answers and replaced items.
The Items replaced: Air filter, Rota arm, Leads and a "fuel pump relay". yet my car still cuts out.
HELP!!! is needed.

Peter

Hi,

In the last episode, I replace the cylinder head. But the new head was also bad, so I bought another engine and swapped it out. I must have not connected something correctly because the car starts sometimes and runs well. Most times it almost starts. Today it ran well, then completely stalled.

I bought a OBDII scanner from Harbor Freight and it does not read the codes for Volvo some reason.

I would like to know what OBD scanner works on this car from someone who actually owns the scanner and a 1995-1997 960 with the OBDII connector on the center console and not in the engine compartment.

Thanks

PS, no water in oil, compression good, fuel pressure good. Maybe problem with immobilizer or ECU not allowing engine to start??? Desperately need a scanner to find out whats going on.

MY 960 has the Climate control unit in the dash mounted behind the wood trim. I don't see where you're supposed to remove the trim panel from, but the ECC is mounted behind it and will not push through (the face of the ecc pushes on the back of the wood trim).

I need to get the ecc out, any ideas? There's an image of the ecc attached