Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I have a 97 Volvo 960 that I bought back in july, I got it pretty cheap as it had been hit on the drivers side door but ran fine.

It no longer runs fine. I'm not sure if it had problems to begin with or if an incident this weekend was the catalyst. The check engine light etc was on, the pnp switch needed to be changed etc. I was in the process of scheduling an oil change and checkup at the dealer as I didn't have any mann filters on hand yet. Well the oil got low, and yesterday I started to hear chattering, which poor, new at this mechanic that I am I believe means the valves were having problems. I added some more oil last night and it helped some but the noise was still there, especially at higher rpms. On the way to work today the chatter was bad, the acceleration was poor and then WHOOMP and white smoke and no more engine.

Incident this weekend was on a country backroad, I was coming to a sharp rise in the road, and there was no signage that I saw but on the top of the sharp crest was a railroad track and then a sharp dip back down, so the car moving at a swift pace went slightly airborne and made a clunk noise as it contacted pavement. I didn't see any damage though and no fluid was leaking, so I assumed I had been lucky and the frame took the hit.

So now I have a pretty much dead 960. I dread to even think of what the bill would be to have the engine replaced or this one opened up and fixed. My question now is what I should do with the car. I have some pictures of it online somewhere if I can find them, but it does have some body damage. Should I try to sell the car, and what would be a fair price. Or should I plan on junking it, and in that case what should I pull that people will need that I will be able to sell? I know I just had to pay a large sum for a used rim a month ago, just have to figure out how to keep all four if I junk it.

Thanks for any help, it looks like I'm going to be leaving the Volvo fellowship for a little while, luckily I just got my 72 Volkswagen running again, just have to wait for a fuel pump that doesnt leak to show up and I should be motoring again.

Today I switched my 95 940's 4 tires to all snow tires. This must mean that winter in New Hampshire is just around the corner. With an average snow fall in the 80 inch range and tons of salt and sand used to treat the roads it's time to put up the fun cars until spring.....and drive ole blue. Ole blue is a nice old car, but it lacks the performance of the 5.0 in the red car and rump-de-rump of the hot rod Chevy. To all of you that do not have to go through a winter like ours I'm jelous....and to all of you out there that will be driving in winter weather conditions hang in there spring is just around the corner.


Wedwagon

I just bought a 92 Volvo 940 GL. It's in great condition aside from the fact that it won't start. I replaced the plugs and wires and I've tried starter fluid. I filled the tank also. It hasn't been started in a year. The battery was totally dead so I recharged it. I'm at wits end. The thing that conserns me, having never owned a Volvo, there is a blinking light on my radio, which won't work either. I was wondering if maybe there was a factory anti-theft in the radio and that's why it wouldn't start. I can get it to roll over and go it to fire with the starter fluid twice for a cpl seconds. I can hear the fuel pump kick in when I turn the key over. I can't afford to put new fuel pumps in, any suggestions?

Hi All,


I am also new to the Volvo world and I am a nervous wreck. I've heard so many wonderful things about Volvo cars overall - however - I've also heard of some costly repairs.

I recently purchased a 96 Volvo 960 with 118k miles for $2,500. The owner mentioned I would be needing struts fairly soon. I've gotten an estimate of $700. Does that seem right? Also does anyone know what it the avg. mpg city and highway? It does not state in the manual. My previous car was a 95Corolla.

Thanks

ps I am in the Illinois area.

Hi guys!
I post quite a bit on the 850 boards (although I haven't been around much lately). We are looking to buy a new car for my husband to replace his Audi V8 Quattro, and while I know he is longing for a BMW 7-series with a V12, we are needing to be a BIT more practical, you know? We have a 3-year-old and are planning to have another baby in the next few years, so I want something practical. Our budget is somewhat limited, and I want to get the most for our money, obviously, since I would rather spend money on more fun things.

We have found a 1994 940 sedan (I assume it's the base 940). It's in immaculate physical condition, silver with charcoal cloth interior. It has a V6 with an automatic transmission (did those really come with a V6?). The tires are good and relatively new. It has approximately 170K on it.

We have balked at buying other cars with mileage that high, but I don't have a problem buying a Volvo with 170K. My 1994 850 Turbo is the third Volvo my husband has owned in any capacity; his 1984 240 GL had over 200K when he finally got rid of it a few years ago after YEARS of having been a daily driver. He's also owned a 1988 760 Turbo sedan. We know our Volvos well and love them. I know that 170K is nothing to be concerned with, especially with a car that has been well maintained.

The seller is the second owner and has all maintenance records. I have sent him an e-mail asking when the timing belt was last changed. The seller says the transmission is in great shape with no problems and that he has never had an engine problem. There is no rust. The body is in excellent shape.

What else should we look for? The seller is asking $2000 OBO. What's a fair cash offer? Is $1800-$1900 fair or should we make him a full cash offer if we buy? I want to make sure we make an informed decision. We know what to look for in an 850, but 940s are new to us. Is this a good family car? We need to get about 4-5 years out of it. Do you guys think that, well maintained, this car will give us those 4-5 years?

Thanks so much!

Hey guys I have a 1992 960 wagon. I just bought a 2007 VW GTI so I'm looking to seel my Volvo but I have a problem my Speedometer doesn't work anymore. All other gauges work but the speedo. It had done this a few times but always went away after a bit, now it hasn't. Since the speedo doesn't work my transmission won't shift so it just stays in first and revs. The only way to drive it is in W mode so it stays in third but as you can tell this is not going to help me sell the car. I think it's either a bad connection to a speed sensor or a bad sensor all together. Anyone have experieence with dealing with this? Prices, whats involved, is it a dealer only fix? Any help would be apreciated.

Help,
Where is the Flame Trap on my sons Turbo 940 there seems to be a lot of tubes and pipes & I am reluctant to start pulling to many of them apart.

i was throwing a P0115 error code and car would not cold start unless my cars key was in the on position for around 15 minutes then it would start. now i got a new ecu that fixed the problem for a few days now my car throws the code P0117 code for a engine coolant curcuit low input.... any ideas of what that could be... when i start my car it has trouble with the throttle when i put the gas on while its cold but once it warms up it does fine.... my temperature guage also jumps around from sometype of electric spike.... the P0115 code does not show up anymore. any input would help,,,,

My 960 with 180K runs like a top. Problem is, rattling from under the car while going over bumps! Sounds very loose almost like a loose sway bar. But I can’t see or feel anything loose or broken. Who should I take it to? I have never had a Suspension problem before.

Thanks

Hey everybody,

Im having trouble tring to get the ight catalytic converter and oxy sensor for my 93 960. Seems I can get the right information off the vin.

Anybody out there know how to get the proper information from the vin?

Hi !
I've recently bought a '96 960 3ltr 24v estate. So, what's the first thing every new owner gets....yep, the dreaded Haynes Manual !!!
But....they don't seem to do one for the 3ltr 960 !!

Do I just buy the one that covers the 940 & 960 ?

Does anyone else do manuals ?

Thanks
Jock

Yesterday after a harmonic racket at the base of the windshield, of my 91 940, started, I found that the grille/screen under the grate or opening of the Cabin Intake Vent had become unattached and was vibrating. With no way into the area from under the hood and hopefully the same from the interior, how do you get to the underside of the cabin intake vent to reattach the grill/screen? The noise is so loud that you can't drive the car at the "posted speed limit" on the highway.

Hi All, my first post but a long time Volvo owner. Currently running a 1991 940GL which I have had for about 10 years, with 154,000 miles on the clock. An intermitent problem but anoying. Pulled up for petrol, but the car would not start afterwards. This has happened before if the car is only left turned off for about 10 minutes or less. Leave the car for about a further ten minutes and it starts straight away. I can tell if is going to happen as the fuel pump does not run when the ignition is turned on.
Could this be the relay that is fitted onto the front of the expansion tank ? It has the part number 899931 1323592-1 12V/40A. I think this is refered to as the injector relay.
If any other 940 owner has met and cured this problem I would appreciate their advice.
Peter

Hello,
Does anyone know why my engine turns over slowly?
I am comparing it to my former car, a 2002 Chevy Tahoe, so not sure if this is normal for the 960's or not.

Thank you
The Muffin Man

Anyone know the procedure for getting any air out of the coolant system for a 1996 960?

The tstat on this car was broken, i replaced it and still having the same problem.

How do i get all of the air out of the system? help

Got a call today from a woman whose 960 was overheating. I went and pushed all the air out of the system, and drove it around and it seemed fine. She drove it home and gave me a call letting me know it was overheating in traffic. Is the Thermostat going out? or would you say something with the fan relay is screwed???

She did mention that a fan is coming on after shutting her car down, but i dont recall hearing the fan running while i was working on it. Any ideas fellas?

Flat battery remove to charge, tried to reset Radio I have the Code but on the screen it says "OFF" and can not type in the Code. If I hold 5 down and power up it works for 4min or so then turns off. So what am I doing wrong, the Radio is a VOLVO CR502??
Thanks Collin

Hello 'friends on this forum,
I am new, did not found at this moment experiences of other heating problems, thus starting up this topic,

Today I met the chance that the heating installation behind the daschbord is leaking cooling fuel. That smells very bad and I do not need to become high.

Is there somewhere somebody who can help me with a manual or something like that so that I can replace that thing on my own.

At this moment I discoppled the both tubes from the faul heating (motorunit ?) at the motorside by connecting them with a 22 mm pipe.

Any help will be received with respect, I love my Volvo and I will continue to drive to obtain the 500000 km. ( still 180000 to go)
Thanks
Jan

bonjour Messieurs
svp tu p'aux m'aider ?
je cherche le manuelle d'utilsation concernant ma VOLVO 940 TURBO model 1991 essence vitesse automatique

cordialement




FOUAD

hi...im loosing coolant from my expansion tank cap. I have put in a new tank and cap and the problem still exists.

I loose one tank full of coolant per 50 miles.

It just sprays out from the cap whilst running. The car is not overheating at all.

Any thoughts on what may cause this...any help appreciated...ta dan

940 se turbo 5dr estate.

Can someone tell me where I can speaker grills for the Volvo 960 4 door.
Thanks,

I have a 1991 940 SE Turbo fitted with a Pirhana alarm system complete with immobilisor, does any body know if this was factory fitted as standard, if so who made them and where I can get a wiring diagram, it seems that 1 of the previous owners must have had problems because the fuses have been removed and 2 of the wires from 1 of the multiplugs at the back of the unit have been cut.

Thanks in Advance

Derrick

My Check engine lite code reading say that tere is a problem with the O2 sensor. I just had it replaced within 2 years. Would a deffective O2 sensor cause the engine to stall mutitple times? And where can I find the O2 sensor to look at it for my self?

What are the part Numbers for flywheels fitted on Volvo 940 cars. Are they interchangeable? Where can I get spare flywheel from. Thanks.

The door locks on my 95 960 have stopped working. At first it was just the key fob that quit. Now the locks will not function even when I use the key at the drivers door. The drivers door will unlock of course but none of the other locks will open. I have to manually unlock the passenger or rear doors from the inside. The trunk also only unlocks with a key. This is really driving me nuts...
Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, this 960 is difficult to start when cold; when warm everything is fine. I suspect a cold-start device is present and not working; can anyone advise how/what to check? Car just had a head replaced (timing belt failure) so a wire could be broken or off, etc.
Thanks

Anyone here know how to remove and replace the water pump?
Thanks for ALL help.
Also I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon.
How do I know my water pump is bad?

It's 2:00 O'clock in the mourning and I took my dads 960 out without him knowing worst part is I think I freaked something up!!!!!!!! I was pretty hard on the car what 18 year old kid is'nt. I noticed when i started it back up to move it so he wouldn't notice I took it, thats when I noticed a squeeling sound and it was real difficult to steer so I parked it got out and there was a trail of fluid underneath the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Power steering I think is what it is any other suggestions? PLZZ HELP How much is a power steering pump, pulley or line depending on what I screwed up help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OMG OMG I AM DEAD

I continue with my quest to diagnose a severe hesitation at load on a 1995 940 Turbo. If I try to accelerate with any but a light feathering of the gas pedal you get it. Also when cruising at a steady speed on the highway and you go up any kind of an incline, you get a slight rythmic hesitation.

I NOW HAVE SOME NEW EVIDENCE THAT MIGHT MEAN SOMETHING. I DISCOVERED THAT THE HESITATION GOES AWAY AT ABOUT 4,000+ RPMs! So what does that mean in my search? That is NOT a turbo hose leak? That is is NOT a fuel pump problem?

I have (by category):

Fuel Delivery:
replaced fuel filter.
filled tank with gas.
put in bottle of techron.
resoldered FI relay.
swapped fuel pump relay.
swapped fuel pressure regulator.
checked fuel pressure at rail.

Electronic/Electrics:
swapped AMM.
swapped coil.
replaced distributor cap and rotor.
replaced plug wires.
replaced plugs.
swapped power stage.
swapped RPM sensor.
Cleaned grounds in trunk, pass, and driver. footwells, and at fuel rail.


Air/Vacuum:
inspected all and replaced some vacuum hoses.
inspected turbo hoses (replaced one, swapped one).
pressurized system at turbo inlet (after hearing air under intake manifold, but not finding a hose problem, I replaced intake manifold gasket).
replaced two idle motor hoses.
cleaned throttle body, with new gasket.
Swapped IAC.
Plugged intake to EGR pipe.

Also:
Checked exhaust for individual bursts (to see if blocked).
There is no black smoke from the exhaust when the hesitation happens.
There are no codes (only 1-1-1).
I then tried to replicate the problem on my 1994 940. I disconnected several air hoses off the intake manifold to create air leaks. It did not produce the same effect.
It stopped doing it at the end of a 200 miles trip and returned a day or two later.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have an 1992 940 GL Auto Estate. Neither of my two key fobs will not lock or unlock the car. This did use to work I can lock and unlock the car with the ignition key.
Where do I start looking on the car for the fault. The tiny red light on both of the fobs flashes press when fob pressed.

I changed the socket yesterday that the trailer number plate plugs into. Just wondered whether this might have caused the fob locking to stop working. The trailer number plate lights work ok.

The key fob worked before I changed the socket but did not work afterwards

Help please. I an very practical around cars but fob locking is new to me.

Thankm you Guys

Short story long: Bought the Volvo used in December of last year from a private seller. About 2 months after purchase I started experiencing this awful clanking noise from under the vehicle in the area of the transmission. I took it to a mechanic and they proceeded to do a diagnosis of the problem. They determined that they drive shaft was bent. As much as I trust this mechanic everyone I have talked to since says the possibility of the drive shaft being bent is remote at best. I guess I'm at a point where I don't know what to think. The mechanic wants $1500 to replace the drive shaft which automatically puts me in a bad spot in terms of cost benefit. "Friends" who fancy themselves vehicle experts think that the issue is more than likely a bearing that has gone south.

Anyone else want to chime in?

I have a 1996 model Volvo 940 with VIN 19448 11 V 1234950. I would like to know how I could extract the fault codes. The earlier Volvo 940 had a small fault code extractor unit under the bonnet. Haynes manual gives the explanation to read out the fault codes and their meaning. In the later models this does not exist. Can any body help how I can read out the fault codes. Any help in decoding the VIN is also welcome.

I have a 1991 940 turbo with 178k. One day the car would'nt start.
The car had spark. So I looked at the fuel system.

The previous owner kept all the service records dating back when he purchased the car back in 1995.
The fuel filter was changed only a year ago. I checked the fuel pump relay and it was good. (Plus I have a new spare which I keep in the glove box.)
Check the fuse - was fine.
So I suspected the fuel pressure regulator. I changed that out - still would'nt start.
I got under the car and checked the pump and filter visual and tapped on them.

The car started up fine. Drove fine for 2 weeks then would'nt start again.
I got under the car and tapped on the filter and pump again.
I changed the fuel filter thinking it may have had some debris in it.

Car started up and drove fine for another three weeks.

Last week it would start but I could'nt get it to accelerate. It would backfire pop and act like it would stall. I stopped tapped on the fuel pump and it ran fine.

Then on the highway while going up hill it started to stall and studder but kept going. It only happened when I stepped on the throttle. I stopped got out and tapped on the fuel pump and it ran fine. (I did'nt shut it off just tapped on the fuel pump.)

Looking for advice:

Change the pump? Which can be expensive $300-$500 (I would do it myself.).
Unless someone has a link for a cheaper aftermarket. (Both the in tank pump and the main pump are the originals.)

There is also a fuel check valve which I read about. Could that be the problem?

Has anyone else run accross this problem? Any ideas would help.

I've done carb work, engine swaps, and replaced transmissions on pickups this is my first venture into the volvo world.

///ed///

Greetings to all members. I am happy to become a member of this forum. I have several questions about the product but to start with I shall just post one problem now.

I have a 19996 model Volvo 940 with a VIN number YV1944811 V 1234950 and Engine Number 1285. How do I decode this identification number? Also I want to know where knock sensor is fitted on this engine.

- Janardhana Rao

Hello, I just bought my fiance a used 93' 940 sedan with 85,000 miles and in perfect condition. I love the car as does she but, we live in Mobile,Al. where traffic is ferocious. Often you need to merge with very high speed traffic from a dead stop or very low speed. We would both feel safer with this car if we had a little more merging power. I was wondering if there was any way of increasing the power of this car without effecting its reliability. I believe the engine is the 2.3L inline four, mated to an automatic tranny. We are not interested in installing a turbo kit and we are not tuners so to speak. I was just curious as to what chip modifications, exhaust mods, air filters or anything along those lines...that the experts would recommend. I would assume that the efficiency/MPG would increase relative to the output of the engine, since the engine,"which is rated at only 114hp" is burdend with the task of hauling around a car that is just over 3,000LBS. Any help/recommendations would be GREATLY appreciated

Has anyone heard of a worn carrier bearing on the driveline causing a vibration that feels like a bad u-joint?