Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I have a 1996 960 Volvo. The timing belt has busted, and chewed throught the housing. I am looking for a good and reliable place to try and locate a replacement used or rebuilt engine. I can use all the help I can get. Lost without my volvo in Blue Springs, Mo.

Also, anyone know anything about this company?

MB Wheels

New to forum,just wanted to say hello to all. From Powell River ,British Columbia Canada.

hi, i am new to this site, and am very gratefull for anything anyone can tell me. this is my first car that i bought 6 years ago, and it holds alot of sentimental value to me. i have a 92 940 gl with 125k on it ,which i dont drive to much. i dont use it in the winter due to the rear wheel drive. i recently took it out and drove it for a few days with no problem. i pulled it into the garage, and the next morning it wouldnt start. it cranks, but doesnt turn over. i used a spark tester and established i had no spark. i had no power at the coil, and ignitor. i then traced power from the battery to a sensor over the battery, following it to the harness by the crank sensor. i unplugged it and had no power at that point. i do have power at my injectors, and have tested all of my fuses and relays, and the seem to work. my uncle is a mechanic, but this car stumped him. we called a friend who knows alittle about volvos, but no luck. people are saying it may be the crank sensor itself, or the ignition computer. any ideas?

thank you ,
michael

Good day Everyone,

Where can you buy a replacement (or rebuilt) engine or transmission?

I'm currently not a Volvo owner, but I looking for rear-wheel drive wagon. Since these engines can get damaged, for the lack of timing belt replacement-I'm looking at all my options to obtain wagon.

One more thing, good online source for replace parts. I currently get my import parts from http://www.autohausaz.com/ any other sources?

Thank you,

Martin

My '97 960 has had a complete braking light failure. Have T/S as much as I possibly can w/o schematics and have yet to find anything. All wires in the trunk ohm out perfectly. Have power to the fuse and the fuse is good with power to the other side of the fuse. Brake switch ohms out good when pressed however there is no poer to either one of the wires to the switch. Please help if you can. I am an aircraft electrician and know how to shoot wires but I can't go much farther w/o a schematic b/c I don't particularly feel like tearing into the main bundles. So if anyone has seen this problem before and has any ideas or if someone could provide me with some schematics I would be eternaly gratefull. Thanx - K_LAB

Yesterday I went to get into the backseat of my 94 Volvo 940. As I "pressed" the door handle, I heard a slight sound, and found that the door will not engage the lock-and therefore will not open. I am sure that something broke inside the door. Does anyone know how much this will cost to fix? I have 2 small children who I constantly drive around, and this problem will soon become a hassle.

Hi!
I'm quite the newb with Volvo's has this is my first, I like it, though in 2 weeks it's broke down twice

Radiator top hose input snapping off, and now what looks like sticking valves.

I need help ASAP!! my wife drove the 960 to church this morning, after she got home we decided to go out shopping. I put the ignition key in but it will not turn!! Has anyone had this to happen to there 960 before? I tryed to blow out the tumbler opening with caned air still no good.. Thanks for your help..

turns over. has spark. can smell raw fuel but wont start. checked diagnostic codes for socket #2 and everything is functioning properly.

also note that warning lights on dash do not come on when key is turned. since all of this is related to ignition switch i replaced that. warning lights worked after replacing but then stopped after turning car over about a half dozen times.

I am completely clueless. i would think it would have to be electrical to lose warning lights same time as not starting.

are there any relays that could be linked to these problems. any ideas on wha tto test or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm probably asking something which as been asked before, but I'd like some feedback.

A year ago, my mother who owned the 960 before started the car, moved it in a 20 second time span. Shut off, went back to start and no go. I went up to look as she said it was turning over fast, so dreading a cam belt in two, i stripped the cover back and ... oh.. cam belt on.
Engine stunk of petrol. I tried to start and no go, so she called for assistance.
The mechanic who came out quoted an old chestnut - oh these cars have a tricky management and it need 40 plus seconds of idling before you contemplate switching off.
So he cranked the car constant for many minutes till it fired.

My turn to have the fault today. I moved her last night, Today I turned her over, she fired then cut out, with a very high speed turn over and stink of fuel. From the mechanics quote, I whipped out all 6 plugs, found them indeed wet, so I cleaned them, left the plugs out for a hour to try and clear the flood. Rebuilt, and bugger me. Still turned over fast!
So I put my battery power pack on incase of ecu brown out and turned over. Nope, still fast, so I cranked it in 20 second bursts. Rested, re cranked and it took, then cut out and cranked over fast. Eventually it went and idled rough. Took it for an italian tune up and fault clears.

Any ideas? A site I read mentioned valve issues. I run Shell V-Power 99 octane and a cone filter for humf and economy.

A friend was with me, and from my car list, I come from a vw back ground and he said was it the cold start valve enrichening the mixture too much causing bore wash as he had that on audi 100.

The only other thing she does when cold is rev to 2000 revs when you change gear, but only when cold. Once warmed up, a steady 750 is there. She runs well, pulls well, does 25 mpg.

It is a 940 Turbo with 155k that I have had about two months and put about 1000k on. First time it happened it sounded like I ran over a tin can, I was just driving a half mile... It got progressively worse then stalled.

After it stalled it would start right up, and drive and idle smooth as can be (this has been the case each time). The turbo kicks in fine and does not smoke. It has happened about 4 times, and EACH TIME I have taken a stick to all the top components (timing belt, head, turbo, etc.) and their internals are quiet as can be.

The last time I had my mechanic with me, we heard it after 30 miles of driving, and we jacked up the car real quick and he said the sound was definitely coming from the flywheel.

He put a new (reman from Advance auto) starter in it (actually this is the second, the first swap was a "used" one we thought was bad too), and I took it out the other day and it did it again!!! Arggg.... [he inspected the flywheel and there is no damage]

What the heck is going on??? Could it maybe not be the starter? I am not aware of anything else down below that could make that noise or that could effect the flywheel...

Thanks in advance....

hi guys,this morning i start the car and everything is ok until i drive about 15 miles,check engine light come on,the car work fine only a little bit slower,i have obd2 scan,cheap one and the code p-0172 come up,rich mixture or something like that,i need do emission test next month,please help,thanks



ps:i clear the code and about 15 miles come on again

Hello!

I need a car for my son who is home from college for the summer and I am looking at a 96 Volvo 960 at the place that I get my VW''s serviced. It has 105,000 miles and had quite a bit of work done to it recently. It is a one owner car (68 year old woman). The mechanics there say that all of their loaner Volvos have 250,000 miles so this car is just hitting its stride. Good idea for a purchase or not? He has to clean it up an inspect it and is talking in the $6500 range on price. Too low a price to be looking at a Volvo?

I am used to VW maintenance prices and wasn't sure if I would be in for sticker shock with a Volvo.
They said to stay away from Saabs if I don't want expensive repair bills. =)

I am open to other suggestions!


1996 Volvo 960 6 cylinder


Thanks !!


Pat

now, looking into line locks for my brake lines. it has abs, and i am int he middle of a heated discussion with myself abotu whether i should keep it on or take it out as its going to be a track car ... i am veering towards leaving it on.

This leaves me at a stand point as regards to line locks. I want to put line locks on so i can lock out the front wheels. Handbrake is fine for the rear FTW.

Now because it has abs, do i put the line locks BEFORE the abs unit eg on the front line pipe between the servo and the abs unit

OR

do i place the line locks AFTER the abs unit.

Also i am not sold on the electric solenoid units as they can become stuck closed or open and cause large problems, but then again, having manual lever type locks would cause an awful lo9t more hassle in locating then inside the car aswell as running the lines to and from them.

any idea's peoples?

Matt

Ok this is probably a really stupid question but.. I have a 1991 940Se 2.0 non turbo. could anyone tell me if this car has a CAT if so what does it look like and where would it be?. I have looked under my car at the exhaust system and from the pics I have seen on the internet I can't seem to find one (cat) , but i'm not entirely sure what i'm looking for.

All help much appreciated.
Thanks

Hi. I have a 1993 960 Wagon that I bought used with 123K miles. Over the past 6 months I have put about 12K miles on it and absolutely love it except for one thing.

If I try to accelerate slowly from 1500 and 2000 RMPs I will experience a very brief knock. This only happens when the car is warmed up and I accelerate slowly. If the car is cold or I step on the gas, this never happens and the car performs great.

The knocking is most noticable when I am driving in traffic on mountain roads. The car shifts into the next gear and idles along going down the hills, and then knocks the instant I ease on the gas for the next uphill. Again, if I step on the gas it doesn't knock.

My mechanic says that this problem sounds like a worn torque converter lock and that the only way to "fix" it is to open the tranny. Given the expense, the fact that the tranny is otherwise working just fine and the age of the car, he recommends that I just live with it. But it is annoying.

I can reduce the number of knocks by using the "S" setting and keeping it out of overdrive by selecting "3" instead of "D", but this reduces the gas mileage. I can also "avoid" the knocks by driving agressively but traffic and speed limits don't always permit that "fix". Any other ideas?

On my Right hand drive 940(dont know where it would be on US car)there is a noise behind the glove box that sounds like a tiny compressor pumping .Its not the fan motor ( also behind the glove box) as the noise is still there with the fan off.Any ideas what it is and can it be quietened down. Test drove a few 940's before i bought this one and cant say i noticed this pumping noise in any of the other's 'although you got to own a car a few weeks to be able to pick out background noises.
Any help from anyone would be welcome

Trying to adjust timing by rotating the distributor located at the back of the engine but timing is not moving. White mark on the pointer is at 15 degrees but actual on balancer is reading 10 degrees with timing light.
Anyone might know why it won't change or am I supposed to disconnect a sensor prior to setting base timing.

94 940 b230 non-turbo.

Thanks.

Can anyone shed light on where my coolant is leaking from.
It is definitely coming from somewhere towards the rear of the engine block
on the right side (looking to front from rear). Is there a coolant hose
connection around there somewhere ?

My 1996 960 wagon with 225,000 miles started misfiring three months ago and the check engine light began flashing like a beast. Took it to my mechanic who read the code and replaced the #4 cylinder coil and plugs (coil had oil on it). Then a month later the check engine light is on again and flashing - this time it's the #1 cylinder coil that's bad. Mechanic says it's clean, however. Another month goes by and the check engine light comes on steady, but the car is misfiring like it's about to stall any second. Now it's the #6 cylinder coil. And again, the mechanic says it's clean. Just started driving it again yesterday and I'm feeling the occasional tiny misfire still... Does anyone have any clues as to what might be going on? (My worry is that once I get through replacing all 6 cylinder coils, the car will start eating the new ones as well!) Thanks.

I'm having an issue with my car right now and since the mechanics in my city are idiots I'm fixing it myself! They couldn't figure out why my car was running rough so I took it into my own hands brought it into auto class and me and a few buddies managed to figure out that my car is only running on 5 cylinders took 3 teenagers with very little expearience to figure out what a trained mechanic could'nt, figure that one out! Now that I am done my rant, here's my problem I've determined that my coilpacks are all functioning correctly. The issue I have is that there is no contact to my third coil from the coil wires, probally something simple like the connections. How much does a new coil wiring harness cost? Is there anyway to splice the current one to just fix that one wire?? TIA

The car was running fine but wouldn't start after a brief errand. 175K. Not turbo. Engine turns over but wont start. It has good fuel pressure but no fire to any plugs (1-6). Can not get info from diagnostic plugs (fuel or ignition) No codes @ all. Timing belt looks great. Timing marks seem to be correct. Replaced crankshaft sensor but still not starting.
Any ideas? Thank you for any info! Have a great day!!!

when i buy the car the remote work fine,now you need to be very close to the car,specially close to the doors to open the car,i change battery twice so i dont think is battery problems.any help just be great or any idea,my friend told me the car is the antenna for the remote,but i dont understand what that mean,the car is a 97 volvo 960 sedan,thanks for your time

hi to all, we are having some problems with our 940 2.3 estate, it doesn't seem to have alot of power. my 2.0l 850 leaves it for dead, surely it should be the other way round.
We tow our caravan and the foot is on the floor and it only does 50 tops, even without the van on its very poor! going up a small incline and it needs to go down the box to get up any suggestions.
we have changed the air filter and it is slightly better , but it still is very poor, we bought the 2.3 for more oomph but it doesn't seem to have it!
we had a 2.3 auto but that was a 740 and that did have the power, so we thought a 2.3 manual would be better but that is not the case
hope someone can help us out save my poor 850, towing to devon and back several times from north wales!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi everyone . I have a problem with my radiator, seems i have a little crack or something...i tried 3 different glue types but it still kept leaking. Eventually I ordered a new radiator. When i opened the hood and took a closer look, i saw on the left side of the radiator 2 pipelines going through the radiator and heading all the way somewhere under the gearbox. I checked on the new radiator and blowing air through one of the holes i noticed that air came out only through the other similar hole above, so i guess the 2 pipelines direct a cooling fluid or something. My question and worry is: what do the pipelines contain? is it a liquid under preasure? maybe it's just car "gas" huh?

Hi,
When the check engione light comes on, the mechanic tells me it is for thr egr system? They replaced a sensor, reset the codes, but it came on the next day.
They sent it out to an electrician who found some hot grounds?. The codes were reset, but as usual, the check engine light is on again. They have reset it a few times.
Any ideas?

In the engine bay screwed onto the side by the headlight is a metal plate about 4or 5 inches long and about 2 inches wide with a wire running into it. As soon as you start the car the plate gets really hot as in too hot to touch. Undone the 2 screws that hold it on and there are 2 white rod's inside.Anyone have any idea what they are or what it does ? I am sure it should'nt get as hot as it does whatever it is.

Would have added a picture of it if i knew how to instead of my vague description but not that clever with PC,s yet.

Hi everybody
As I post about two month ago, my 97 960's AC does not work.
I remember it work once before the winter 2007, it the day I bought the car.

Last week, I bought a recharge kit, I plug it in, the gauge showed low pressure. However, after I charged it to normal pressure, the AC still not work.
Also, I look at the compressor clutch in engine compartment, it never runs...

What should I do in the following folks? Summer is coming...

After picking my car up from the dealer (head gasket repair) I have had some starting issues. They maybe related to the work done at the dealer (I have no faith in the workmanship there any longer) or could be just do to its age. First thing was it would crank for some time (30 to 50 sec.) where as it used to fire within 5 sec. and I would stop cranking for a few sec. and then hit it again and it would fire right off. And now I must wiggle the shifter to get it to crank at all which I belief to be the nuetral start switch but am not sure as to location. Any thoughts on this would be great

Guys
I am looking to get a set of alloy wheels for my volvo, with the tyre sizes being 185 x 65 what size of wheel am I looking for? I apologise for the no doubt really daft questions, but I am really gromless when it comes to cars and what makes them tick

As i am modifying my 940 turbo ... i am removing the dash, but i need to know whether i can just hook up an aftermarket tach straight tot he tach input on the volvo dash. i tried this in my 740 and it didnt work so i am dubious about trying it this time.

Also i want a new fuel guage and odometer (speedo). I am sure i can find the wire feeds for these using my haynes, but a little more info is needed for the compatability issues that might arise.

There is no problem with all the warnign and indication lights as i have a T shape rally style cluster with blinkers and all the usual handbrake (ahem which is mostly on) main beam oil warnign etc...

Matt

I forgot about this on my last post, sometimes when I apply the brake there is (I dont know the correct term) what can only be described as a strong tickle on the brake pedal, a friend told me it could be to do with the ABS but I should'nt worry too much about it.

David

Greetings all,

First post here. Got a 96 - 960 in very good condition. Looking to replace the stock speakers and head unit. Very early in process so I got a few questions hopefully you can help me with.

I listen to all kinds of music but I am partial to electronic and dance. Though there is nothing wrong with the stock equipment, it just isnt doing it for me.

Description and questions:

Replace head unit with Double-din unit:
I've heard this cannot be done but I say phooey to that. I'll custom mount if necessay. Just would not look right with a single-din and mount kit.

Replace all stock speaker(s):
Two questions here.
1. I've read the door speakers are 6 1/2". Can anyone confirm? They do not look that big and I haven't measured them yet.

2. Have read dash speakers are 3 1/2". Again, can anyone confirm?

3. Thinking of replacing the 6" x 9"'s with two 10" subwoofers. Or should I replace the 6" x 9"'s and put a sub(s) in trunk. Opinions welcome.

Install Amp(s):
No questions here.

Below are components I'm looking at.
Rear Speakers
Door Speakers
Dash Speakers - Powered by Headunit internal Amp.
Amp for Speakers
Sub(s)
Amp for Sub(s)
Headunit 1 or Headunit 2

hi
I just bought a K reg 940 Wentworth saloon, the tyre sizes are 185 x 65, are these standard sizes and if so what should the tyre pressures be?

Thanks
david