Volvo 940 & 960 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

My '93 940 wagon has 293,000 miles on it. The automatic trans has started to shift late. It sees that the warmer the car gets, the slower it shifts. Sometimes after 30 minutes of driving it won't shift into high gear until 70 mph. The trans fluid level is okay. Does anybody know what's causing my problem?

Thanks,

Randy

I'm trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem in my '92 940. Research on this forum and others has led me to believe that the fuse block needs to be replaced. A few of the relays are overheating even after I replaced them with new ones. Does anyone have any advice on how to install a new/ used fuse block?

I took my 1994 940 to have the relays switch for the overdrive replaced at the Volvo Dealer. The mechanic noticed there was an internal oil leak. He said he would have to remove the timing belt to fix this problem. The car only has 91, 908 miles on it. How difficult is it to fix this. Should I dump the car? The vehicle is only worth 2,000 in trade. The body and interior of the car are in great condition.

Hello every1

I have a 95 volvo 960. The check engine light came on. I only get 1 error code which is 112, That code says fuel injection unit or fuel injection module. When I clear the code the check engine light will come back on after 100 miles or so and I would get code 112 again. Does anyone know what could the problem be or where to start looking for the problem. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jerry

When I bought my car, I quickly figured out the key to the ignition did not lock or unlock any of the other doors. So I had the dealer make me keys based on my vin number. Well those keys did not work in the ignition nor doors. So I have just gotten used to leaving the doors unlocked and of course the trunk was the same. I knew that I could lock the doors by pushing the drivers side door lock button because all the locks would lock, but as soon as I opened the door, the drivers side would unlock. Also, I noticed that I could not lock the drivers side door when the door was open. So I just got used to it and never left anything very valuable in my car. Well today I left my car in the lot of my local Goodyear Dealer who had worked on my truck. I picked up my truck, left my Volvo in his lot to return later to pick it up. Well I returned and the dealer is closed but surprised, surprise---my doors are all locked and I cannot get in---trunk included. How did they lock the doors? How can I get back in? Do I need to talk to a locksmith to make keys to my door? Help! My Goodyear rep is going to hear about this but I feel pretty dumb in that they knew how to lock the doors w/out the keys and I did not.

Help anyone?

My 1997 960wagon has 90K miles and the OE coolant, recently it got hot on a long hill. When do I change the antifreeze, and with what? Is the Volvo brand better than any other? The manual doesn't say anything so I'm concerned since i have a long hot summer ahead. Thanks everyone.

Hello all! I have a 93 940 station wagon. One day as i was driving along the AC stopped working. Looking under the hood, the clutch is not spinning. I remove the plug that goes from the switch to the compressor and with the ac button on, I am NOT receiving 12 volts. I jumper the compressor to the battery and the clutch spins perfectly. I wonder is there an AC compressor relay that i'm just not aware of? or anything else that would stop current from flowing to the clutch? Any answer is much appreciated as I live deep in the heart of texas and boy it gets hot here...


Thanks again!!!


Dan

I have gotten a well used 1996 960 wagon. NO AC. When I push the AC button in and out the tack responds so something is happening. So I bought a can of 134a and hooked it up to the place the AC refil goes. Blew up my gauge its stuck at 90 something. Does anybody have any ideas? I followed directions and ran the car at full on the AC?

I have been smelling gas fumes when riding in my 1994 960 through the vents. I can even smell fumes when parked in the garage. Has anyone experienced this problem?


Thanks,

David

First off yes I have tried other forum posts.

I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles

The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.

I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil (could this be the problem is it supposed to go somewhere else first?)

Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.

Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Robert

Hope everyone had a nice christmas! I really need some imput on a idle problem and a shaking up through the RPMs. The engine will start idle up to around 1200 and drop back to 750 where it sits for about 20-30 seconds smoothly. After this it starts stumblin down 100-200 RPMs and back. When you throttle up it still has what seems to be a miss or something. When your in gear accelerating you can tell the engine is being held back. I've replaced the fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, Main fuel pump and filter. I can here the intank pump whirling, new fuel pump relay, cleaned Throttle Body and new gasket, cleaned Mass Air with mass cleaner. Replaced Cap, Rotor And Wires, new intake gasket and all new vacuum hoses that connect to intake. It looks to have a new RPM crank sensor and Ignition Module. I run 93 Octane fuel from a high volume Chevron gas station and have tried lucas in fuel. I have cleaned and tested the ground wires on the fuel rails and valve cover to body of car to the black box on fire wall. Also, cleaned IAC valve. I have even done the propane test all around the intake and anywhere I thought a vacuum leak could be. Oh yea the head has just been rebuilt and had new spark plugs installed. HHHHHEEEEELLLLPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife wants her BRICK back!!!! Thanks. Scoutdad I've also checked the ECM coolant temp sensor and it works within Specs and had the Battery & Alt checked out. I thought maybe low voltage.

Hi,

I'm having some trouble on my D24TIC and would like some advice on how to start fixing all of them. I will post them all at once because maybe someone can see a relation between them. Which to fix how? What is the order of importance?

nr 1, probably the worst one:
I have an oil leak. When I park the car, the next day I can find a few drops under it. Never can find much there, but i am loosing about 1 liter each 1000km so probably while driving it's loosing much more. Don't really have any blue smoke out of the exhaust. People tell me that 1 liter in 1000 km is acceptable for an old car (13 years old, 340.000 km) but since it never lost any oil untill a few month ago and now this much, I think something must be wrong. The oil that I find under the car comes from the plastic black box on top of the engine. (breather box?). Around the seal where it is connected to the engine, some oil gets out. Also on the other end of the breather hose, where it is connected to the turbo, oil comes out. These run down to the bottom of the engine and make everything oily so I can't really see if there is any other source of oil leaks.

nr 2
the EGR valve was disconnected. The car was always serviced in a Volvo garage untill i started driving it (it used to belong to my parents). Why would the volvo mechanics disconnect this? Nobody else ever touched it so they must have done it. The yellow vacuum hose was disconnected and plugged with a screw. What should be the difference between connecting/disconnecting it?

nr 3
when the car starts and the weather is humid, there is a very loud squeeling noise. I guess it is some belt slipping. When I wash the car it always happens. When it happens the RPM sensor gives me 0 RPM. Where is the RPM measured? This should give me some indication of which belt is the problem.

nr 4
probably nr 3 is related to this. The belts (including timing belt) had to be changed at 280.000 according to the volvo service schedule, and now i already have 340.000 and still didnt find time to do it. I have the belts, just still didnt do it. Should I be in fear now and not drive the car untill I find time to do it or it shouldn't be a problem? Also I'm not experienced at all. I did do some small repairs on the car and I do mechanical stuff and have tools, but I never really worked on cars or engines. How long do you guess it will take to change the belts for me? Are there any other jobs that I should do at the same time?

For the rest the car runs fine. In the last 2 years I replaced the battery, 3 glow plugs, radiator, thermostat, brake calipers and discs and A/C condensor, and replaced oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.

Hope I can get some advice on how to keep this car running reliable as it has for many years.

Thanks

What can cause the 940's 2 speed fan to only run on high speed? the fan never comes on low- only on high, and only for a few seconds at that. Changed the relay and still no cigar. What else could cause this?

thanks!

Dan

hello
yesterday...when my father was under return home by his 960'1995,suddenly wipers on front glass and on lamps starts working(on highest rpm's) and pump blow out all washing liquid into glass and lamps.
Problem is, it happens itselfs and we can't switch it off ....we have to turn ignition off for switch it off....
WHAT HAPPENS<WHAT TO DO ??????????
maybe kind of relay(crazy relay)...
need help ,so waiting for any answer
Mark

the speedometer and the oddometer stick at the same time every so often. i turn on the car the speedometer goes up to 40mph and sticks and the odometer doesnt turn. it only happens when i let the car sit for awhile. it really doesnt get driven to often. i have replaced the speed sensor in the rear end no real difference. any ideas?

Greetings Everyone!

My son is a student and we got him a 1993 940 a while back which we have worked on and patched together. This has been a fun project and we all like the car, but as with anything mechanical, we have had to clear a few hurdles.

The challenge of the moment is that the leather seats were badly neglected by the previous owner to the point of being cracked and split. We are looking at options. I found a "1991 740 Sedan" set of seats, but am not sure if these are a simple bolt in swap. Are there significant differences in these seats? Would this work?

Would it be a better idea to try recovering the seats after stabilizing padding? How hard is that project?

This car has over 200K on it, but after swapping out everything from the coil to the plugs, it runs great and will likely serve my son through the next few years at college.

I also need to swap the seat belt latch as the plastic inner is worn through. Seems a bit cheap on such an otherwise well made car. Are there some methods of gluing something over this plastic that have worked for others?

Thanks for such a great resource!

Rabby

Hi,

Don't purchase the cam & crank tool set (#5451, 5452, 5453 &5454) without contacting me. I was recently faced with the decision of whether or not to spend the $500-$800 for this tool set (for ONE TIME use). I created some simple tooling and used some alternate procedures. Everything worked fine. One catch is that I had the engine OUT of the car rebuilding it. So if anyone else is in the same situation and have the engine out , I would be glad to offer some advice.

Ron

Hi,

I am trying to figure out how to remove the Driver's Interior Door Panel
so I can get to the Relay in there which I suspect is broken.
Just a note, the relay for the automatic up/down window control is within
the door.

1) I have removed the Red Light Lens cover on the lower portion of the door.
2) I have twisted all 3 of the white screwlocks underneath the door and they seem free.
3) I have removed the panel screws under the cover in the door handle "cup"
4) I have removed the speaker grill and the plastic pice around the door handle

The panel is held on by some clips I suppose but I am applying a large force to the panel and nothing is snapping free...Doe anyonw know what is holding the door panel on? tandva@comcast.net

Thanks, Tom

Hi, I want to remove the rear double seats in my 1994 940. I can easily remove the 'lower' part but would also like to remove the backrests for more space. I can't see an obvious way, the pivot mount appears to be fixed in place.

Any ideas?

Thanks

My non turbo lost a heater hose and overheated the motor. Got it home on the back of a ramp truck and see that the front 2 plugs are wet and cranking blows water out of the fill canister.

So I either need a gasket or a head. The distributor is mounted on the rear of the head.

What is the procedure to remove? I cant find any manuals from Haynes on this model and Im sure there are gotchas in the procedure if not done correctly.

Im well versed in vintage US V-8 engine repairs but not with any foreign makes or an OHC.

Geoff

I have a 1997 volvo 960 with automatic transmission, 98000 miles. Recently the car, when I tried to crank it, would act like it had a dead battery or a battery cable problem... it would click but noy start. Soon after this started I also began to experience at times a flashing arrow on the dash along with flashing lights on the gear shifter. After reading on the internet I repalced the gear psoition sensor with a new volvo sensor. The car cranks but the flashing lights continue to flash. I do not have the volvo tool to align the sensor. Wondering if I need to further line the sensor up or do I possibly have another problem???

Hello,
We purchased our Volvo used with 140,000 miles. It is our second car and I absolutely love it. I have a friend who is a technician and has done some minor work on it for us. It runs great for a car with so many miles and we move how good it is on gas. Much more efficient during these times than the gas hog SUV we have.

Recently the check engine light has gone on and the manual says it could have something to do with the emissions. My friend's diagnostic tool doesn't work on the older models so the problem cannot be detected. Any ideas on how to locate the problem without going to a total stranger? Is there another tool that can detect the problem? I have the emissions inspection in September and am worried the repairs are going to be very expensive.

Also, the service engine light goes on every time I start the car and eventually turns off. I have had the car serviced and am looking to reset this light.


Dee Dee

Hello, all. I've another issue to fix on the old 960: A dinged passenger headlamp lens. I bought a new lens from lampsandlenses.com, and figured out how to unfasten the headlamp assembly from the body easily enough, but I'm stumped on how to get the assembly out with the headlamp wiper shaft sticking through a hole in the bumper. It's almost as though the Volvo design engineer, presented an opportunity to ease repairability by designing a shaft passage channel in the bumper, instead chose to create a puzzle legacy and design a closed hole. In any case, I can't see how one can remove the headlamp assembly without either removing the wiper motor and shaft, or removing the bumper. Can anyone advise me, please? Thanks.

Hi all, i have put a new distributor cap on and i have definitely mixed up my plug leads as to what one goes to what cylinder.
You can see i have numbered the distributor from left to right 1 2 3 4, and the cylinder plugs starting from the bulkhead 1 2 3 4 also from left to right .
Can someone tell me where they go working with my numbers eg, my number 3 on the dissy to my number 4 spark plug.

Thankyou to anyone who can help me.

Hi everybody,
I have a start-problem with my 1997 Volvo 940 Turbo Injection (with LPG).
When the engine is cold I have to start for about 15 seconds before the engine turns on. It seems to run on 2 cylinders then, then another kicks in and finally it runs OK.
When starting the warm engine it takes about 5 seconds of crancking before it starts.
After the engine starts it runs very fine, has power, etc.... so no problems then.
So far I have done:
- replaced all vacuum tubes.
- replaced the Lambda-sensor.
- cleaned the throttle-body of debris and dirt (mildly dirty).
- replaced the bottom filter in the IAC.
- replaced the sparks and the distributer.
- replaced the gas-filter.

When turning on the engine (but not crancking) I've noticed 3 bar pressure on the fuel-line to the injectors, so no fuel problem. I've noticed that while crancking the engine the spark-plugs have good sparks, so no ignition-problem.
I suspected the IAC, but I dont know how I can test it. It cannot be disassembled. It has two tubes going to the throttle-body just near the intake-valve, a large and a small diametre tube. A third tube is running to the bottom of the engine-compartment and dissappears beneath the driver-side to the rear..(?)

Can anybody give me a tip on how to get my Volvo to startup like it should?
Thank you.

Hi all. My horn gave up the other day. I'v tested it directly on the battery and it works fine, checked the fuse and checked the windshield wipers that share the same fuse - everything OK. Now, from what I can understand out of the schematics I found here the yellow cable always has + 12 volts while the black -/ground is cut until one hits the button on the steering wheel. The odd thing is:

1. The yellow wire has a potential over ground of 1 V at the maximum (key in return position)
2. The black wire is short circuit to the chassis regardless of if the button is pressed or not

What happend here?

Since the windshield wipers and horn share the same + supply I suppose there's a split point somewhere after the fuse. Maybe something happend there. Does anyone know where this split point is located? And why does the black wire connnect to ground all the time?

My A/C was working when I bought the car last winter, but hasn't worked for me yet this summer. I've done some troubleshooting and determined that the compressor clutch is most likely bad. When hotwired from the battery to the compressor the clutch won't engage.

I'm looking for the cheapest way possible to do this, so I'm going to try and use a Pull-A-Part type place. I can get a compressor for 20 dollars or a clutch for about 13. I'd like to just get the clutch because it's cheaper and I won't have to evacuate my system in order to do it (I don't have an A/C service unit at home, or easy access to one).

The only problem is I don't have a manual that tells me how to remove the clutch on this car. I've searched google for a while and come up empty. Does anyone know how this specific clutch comes off? Do I need a compressor clutch puller tool, or can it be done with normal tools? If I do need the special tool, is it a standard model, or something special? I'm not even sure the make/model of the compressor, all I can read is Volvo on it. I'm assuming it's either Bosch or something Japanese.

Any help you can give me, especially detailed instructions and required tools, would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to be able to go to the Pull-A-Part place prepared with the knowledge and right tools to do the work.

Thanks,
Kai

I need help! the ac clutch wont engage! the only time it engages is when the ignition has been turned over 6-8 times without starting the car. What do I do? I checked the freon levels whith the clutch engaged and they are well within the ranges given to me by volvo. I have also replaced the relay located under the bonnet (hood). checked all fuses, good. I used my meter to "see: the voltage at the compressor and I see it then it goes away. HELP WHAT DO I DO?

Please, I need help desperately! The alternator requires that the circuit between it, the battery, the starter, and the warning lights be complete or else the alternator will NOT charge the battery AND the alternator is taken out of the "charging loop" leaving the car to only run as long as the battery has charge.

I need to find out what the actual wiring is behind the dash or in other words, what the entire charging path is..... from the dash warning lights into the engine to the starter, the alternator, the battery, etc...

The battery is brand new and checked good.
The alternator is brand new and doubly checked also good.
The starter is brand spanking new and triply checked good, too.

Now, the warning lights are NOT coming on when I turn the ignition on except sporatically. When they come on, everything is fine and everything gets charged, but they only come on when we hit a bump or something.......

HELP! Need to know the charging path..... have checked all the obvious wires to all of the above components under the hood and fuses, etc.... need more info.

Yes, I'm a single female but I taught electronics in the NAVY and know a little bit about what I'm doing but I don't have any wiring diagrams or schematics to really go by..... Don't need the schematics.... Just need the actual hard-wiring path....... Where's the darn wires come and go from under the dash to the engine?


Thanks for anyone that can assist me.............

I got this tip for removing the crank pulley bolt without resorting to special tools from another site,its really ingenious and simple.........................

1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank to #1 0° TDC Compression
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, #1 cam pointed slightly up and inboard, #2 pointed horizontally outboard.
3 - Rotate crank about 90° past TDC.
4 - Stuff about 3 feet of clothesline into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside (feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker).
5 - Rotate the crank backwards until the packed rope stops further rotation.
6 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt.
7 - Tighten bolt the same way, but start with crank about 90° before #1 TDC Comp.
8 - When tight to spec, back the crank up a little and remove clothesline.

I have a 91 volvo 940 se turbo which needs a new ignition computer (we think). The problem is I cant find one anywhere. I found a computer for a 89 244 (non turbo) but the part numbers don't match exactly, the last 3 numbers are off by just a little bit.

Does this mean that they wont work or is it worth a shot.

Thank you,

I just bought a 1993 940 and it ran fine for about 300 miles. All the fluids were fine and it started fine. Yesterday the engine just quit when I was going down the highway. It turns over but doesn't try to catch and start. I checked for spark off the coil lead and it was weak. Any ideas on what it could be? I am going to try a new coil but if it is something else I would like your input. Thanks!

-matt

Greetings all,

As subject says. I installed part of my new stereo system yesterday. Still have a bit more work but am very happy with progress so far. Images below:

Head unit fit like a glove.


As you can see getting the rear 6x9's in wasn't easy. Going to leave the back seat out until I get rest of system in.

I am having problems with my 940 wagon stalling. The RPM's go to zero & sometimes it will shoot back up & continue running but other times it will die once I slow or stop. I had the throttle body cleaned but it did not help.
After searching the intern