Hello, we have answers for your Volvo-related questions!. Why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums. Together we can make our Volvo community a better place.
i have the volvo 940 se turbo 1991 this is what happened to me.i started the car,it started then cut out .i had been putting off changing the timing belt due to having to order the crankshaft tool 5284 needed to remove the bolt.so that timing belt had done 100,000 miles and was still good.the trouble in fact was the tension er needed to be changed .the bearing starts to fail. so the timing belt has slipped two teeth .so timing was out that was why it cut out.to check remove the top timing cover.and the belts ,check the timing mark at the crankshaft lines up and the timing mark on the camshaft line up .you will then see how many teeth your timing belt has jumped.the same will apply to the intermediate shaft.if that is the case .you need to remove your crankshaft sprocket with tool 5284 you need to order from the volvo dealer at a cost of £38 .get a new belt on ebay i got a volvo belt for £10 and get a new tension-er from GSF for £19 now to fit your new belt .set the timing marks up.on the camshaft ,the intermediate shaft .and the crankshaft .clean everything before fitting the belt .check no oil leaks found.if found then time to change the seals.or the gasket on the cover for the intermediate shaft.or camshaft seal or crankshaft seal.you may need to order them from the dealer.or ebay. there is a number of video's on changing your timing belt found on you-tube so watch them before doing the work.it is not a hard job to do .just remember to clean the engine before you fit the belt.and clean the sprockets.when you have the belt off ,and pull off the crankshaft sprocket.behind it is a washer with a small cut out .car needed when refitting the gear that holds the timing belt.as there is a small lug that fits in in the crankshaft sprocket when it is pushed back on .so take care that you do not fit round the wrong way.it is very easy to do the work .but you need help putting a nail to hold the tensioner spring.just use the tool volvo tool 5284 to do the work .if you don't have the tool ,do not start the work.
Cannot get bonnet to lock shut, had difficulty while ago and after slamming it shut several times I gently just let it drop shut and it locked, now though it will not lock by any means , any ideas? Is there any adjustment on the catch? Currently driving it with it just secured by secondary release catch.
The remote central locking appears to be working correctly. But last night just by chance, after locking the car with the remote, I found that I could open the driver's door using the handle. All the other 3 doors were still locked.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to where the fault lies ?
a couple of springs are broken on my volvo v40, its a 2001 1.8i with the mitsubishi engine, im looking to buy these springs but not sure if they will be right for my car as 2 types are listed and they only fit one, any one know which one mine is please?? Make Model Year Variant Bodystyle Type Engine Volvo V40 2001 VW [1995-2004] Estate Estate 1.8i 1834ccm 122HP 90KW (Petrol) Volvo V40 2001 VW [1995-2004] Estate Estate 1.8i 1834ccm 125HP 92KW (Petrol)
is there even any difference between the springs on these cars?
This is a question and a half, if someone is a super tech/mechanic.
I have a V40 2.0T B4204T3 motor. I have no idle, I did supect the ICV but it measures 10ohm on the coil and functions with bech tests but I don't know if it getting the right signals from the ECU. From what I've read it (the ICV) will not function if the throttle is even open a little which the TPS sends to the ECU to turn it off. So I suspect my tps maybe faulty, so with the 3 pin plug that pugs into it what two of the three pins do I short out to send a signal to the ECU that the TPS is shut, so I can the see if the ICV will start to work?
PS I'm idling on the butterfly at the moment, not a good driving sensation.
Hi, my 1997 V40 has been blowing smoke and using oil. A mechanic recently diagnosed the problem as a blocked oil breather and said the breather box and all hoses had to be replaced because they were cracked. However, the problem is that he said that one of the hoses on top of the breather is no longer available, and I've confirmed that it isn't. The car is low mileage and I don't want to get rid of it on account of a rubber hose! One overseas parts supplier said I could probably get away with a generic reinforced rubber hose of the right diameter. I find it hard to believe that Volvo would simply discontinue one part when all the others are still available, without some sort of replacement being available.
Anyway, my question is whether anyone has recently replaced their breather box and what did you do? Surely I'm not the first! Did you make do with a generic hose? I don't even know where this thing is and I don't have a workshop manual (although I have been trying to download one, for many hours!)
last week I changed my thermostat for a new one operating at 92 degrees, the one that came out said it was 90 deg C (original OEM thermostat). after the change the heating was working again, and I could take off the board that I had just put in to blank the bottom half of the radiator / intercooler to get heating. now it was a day or so later on the way home from work and I noticed a hesitation when I put my foot down, on Friday on my way home from work I tried and noticed the hesitation only happened when I went over the neutral line in boost, so only when the turbo was actively boosting, I also noticed that at the end of the trip, the boost gauge seemed considerably lower than at the start. Testing at the weekend seemed to indicate no problems, but that was on short journeys, boost was working fine. This morning driving in to work I watched the boost gauge carefully and it was only after about 60 miles (1 hour) that the problem became evident. I suspect a very slight leak in the pipework somewhere, that only becomes evident after an hours driving, strange though as the engine is fully up to temperature within quite a short while. The change of the thermostat may be a red herring as I only noticed the change after I had swapped it out. Normal driving seems fine, no issues unless I floor it and try and use the boost, I can still hear the dump valve working when I pull away and change up, so any ideas / thoughts? the car has done 166,000 miles. Grendel
Hi Everyone, So I have a 2001 V40 and I've been having quite a confusing few days. Hopefully someone can help me because I'm lost after spending the last two days search forums for answers.
Wednesday night when I turned my car on I notice it rumbling and shaking a fair amount. This has happened before once, and gave me a cylinder misfire code, which went away after turning the car off and then on again. So I tried this but it didn't work. When I got home I check the codes and got a P0303- Misfire in cylinder 3. This didn't make any sense as I had just (about two weeks prior) replaced the coil pack in cylinder 3 with a new one, as the old one had a crack in it. So I switch the coil packs for cylinder 3 and 4, and the car seems to stay the same, however now the code reads P0302- Misfire on cylinder 2. I tried replacing the spark plugs, from AC Delco coppers to Volvo standards, as apparently non volvo plugs can cause problems. This didn't help. I drove the car to work (about 10 minutes highway) and checked the codes again later than night. There was a new one: P0013- âBâ Camshaft Position â Actuator Circuit Bank 1. I tried switching the coil packs again (so that the new pack was back in the original slot at cylinder 3) and the misfire code changed from cylinder 2 to 3; it seemed to be following the new pack. So again I drove the car to work, and check the codes when I got to work, and now there is a third code: P0128- Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). I also just tried replacing the new pack (incase there was something wrong with it) with the old "broken" one (which only really cause problems under heavy loads) and it didn't help.
I'm out of ideas. I plan on taking it to a shop in the next couple days, but I was wondering if anyone could help me before then.
Hey I'm new to the forum but not new to Volvo's as my last car was a 90 740GL which I loved and decided to purchase another Volvo. I recently brought a 2001 V40 1.9T from a dealer which has a 3 month 3600 warranty. Car is have a few issues that I would like to get some help pinpointing before I take it back to the dealer to get fixed.
Issue #1 After the car sits for a real long time (usually over night) it has a really hard time starting in the morning. The engine turns over and it will idle for about 3 maybe 4 seconds and shut off. I'm thinking that the fuel filter may be clogged, fuel lines may be clogged for fuel injectors spark plugs may be bad. After it starts it usually takes a while to accelerate even if I have my foot smashed to the ground. After about 10 minutes of putting around it would drive normally like nothing was ever wrong any suggestions with this issue?
Issue #2 The car is overheating and using a lot of antifreeze. I have not seen any leaks. I checked under the car so I don't know where it is going. I check the engine oil to see if coolant was leaking in there. Nothing. I checked the exhaust pipe to see if anything was leaking out of there when the car was running or the sign of the not so good white smoke and nothing. Don't know what could be the issue. Bad waterpump or radiator perhaps?
Any information would greatly be appreciated. Thanks a lot in advance.
Just got my fist Volvo, a 54 plate V40 diesel. Loving it so far, however I have noticed one thing that is a little strange - to go between dip and full beam requires 2 clicks both ways. Is this normal? If so it seems very strange to me!
today I just replaced the headlight adjustors on one of the headlights on my V40, the originals had got so brittle thaat when I went to adjust them, they just crumbled, still Â£18 each was cheaper than a complete headlight unit (part number is 30623987) they are not too difficult to fit, just remove the headlight, take off the glass and disconnect the clips, one clip on, one screw, the new part is a bayonet type fixing, push in and twist. Grendel
[Hi I have a 1999 v40 1.8 petrol. Headlight switch connections melted and dipped beam failed.
Reciently the headlights developed a fault in that the Blue/yellow wire at the o/s headlight melted, and the connector pin 13 at the light switch melted also. The result being no dip beam function. Having checked all fuses and relays all appeared ok, so i assumed the bulb connector had gone due to a poor connection ( told this is not unknown on these ) and had somehow taken out the switch as resultant damage. I replaced a short loom section, fitted a new switch and went on my way. Two months later and the switch has gone again on pin 13. This time i have damm near gutted the front of the car checked all the wiring and both headlight earth fixings and found nothing. Having replaced the switch a second time. And asked at a Volvo garage (fault was a new one on them).
I thought i would post the question to the masses. Has anyone experienced anything similiar ??
I have to admit its got me stumped, firstly how it happened and didnt pop a fuse also and secondly if it is an unknown fault on the model then why did four of the five volvo at the breakers have there switches already taken. This would at least suggest a switch fault of some kind.
Having not been able to identify a root cause for the fault I have disconnected the drl function, this may or may not be a contributing factor, (I know that on later models this function was not powered through the switch) If anyone can shed any light on the subject i would appreciate it.
PS sorry for the duration of my ramble, but the more info given the better the response, hopefully.
the stalk pcocedure wont work on the 98 model only the phase 2 v40s the only way i found to turn them off is to take the headlight switch out and cut the thicker of the 2 blue/yellow wires that will stop the drl headlights only if you want the sidelights as well off you need to buy another light switch that doesn't allow them
hi all, ive just got a volvo v40 and like the car very much, however, if started after being sat over night it runs fine until you switch off and turn on again, then its down on power and wont rev past 4k or accept full throttle, i did notice a slight sharp popping in the exhaust so gave it a few revs and its started blowing at the box in the middle, before the exhaust was blowing i had the car plugged in and it said it was the fuel pressure sensor though the guy who used the equipment said it sounded more like the crank position sensor, can anyone shed any light on the faults? also the indicator relay is clicking at twice the speed on its own but goes back down to normal speed when operating the stalks or hazaeds
Hi all! I am now here, and a Volvo owner by default. It is my girlfriend's car, and since we have been together, it seems that I spend way too much time under the hood or on the net trying to figure out what is wrong with it! 2002 V40. Have had constant problems with the coils burning out in the summer. Last endeavor was replacing the automatic cam timing solenoid. now...I was on a trip...about 50 miles and got off of the turn pike. Suddenly, I lose power and the DSA light comes on. I nursed it to a parking lot and shut it off to read up on the strange looking dash light and give it a rest. After 20 minutes, nothing changed and I limped home for 15 miles hoping I didn't have to pull out quickly. There were times it would spurt and it would run normally, but very few and far between. if anyone has any idea, i would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Everyone, I have an interesting problem with my girlfriends s reg V40; bizarrely the central locking no longer works and neither does the radio. However if you leave it for 10 mins it will function once and then fail again. I have checked the fuse to the radio, and that the other relays are seated properly. Has anyone got any ideas as to where I might start looking? Thanks for your help, I'm at rather a loss with this one. Regards, James
I am having a weird rattling sound coming from the passenger side of the engine - where the timing belt is. It happens only when the engine is cold and disappears almost completely when it warms up. It is noticeable at idle and low RPMs (it gets louder when I pump slightly the acceleration pedal). I tried removing the accessory belt - the noise is still there, so it is not the AC, alternator or power steering. Also I replaced the timing belt and all it's components, EXCEPT the water pump recently (~20k miles ago). The car has ~125k miles currently. That rattling started recently - maybe in the last 5-6k miles. It sounds like there is something is loose and rattles - metal rattling sound. It is difficult to say where it is coming from, but my guess is from the crankshaft pulley area. Also I recently removed the Timing belt cover to inspect the TB tensioner and the idle pulley for vibrations, but they were fine. Any idea? I believe it is getting a bit louder in the the last few months. I am out of ideas already. Here is the rattling sound I was able to record: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7483103...tling_sound.mp3
Hello All, I have a 2000 V40 with less than 80k miles. I'm been having a problem for the past several months that several mechanics have been unable to solve and am hoping someone here might advise. My check engine light has been coming on for no apparent reason. Months ago when the problem began, the car was misfiring a little when idling. Mechanic #1 changed my transmission fluid which needed to be done anyway, and then suggested that the problem might be related to my timing belt. He cleared the code and I opted out of the timing belt because it seemed too soon to replace it. Shortly after that the light was back on. Mechanic #2 said timing belt was fine, replaced spark plugs and that fixed the misfiring but a week later the check engine light was back. Next they replaced my thermostat. After that all was fine for a week or so and then the light went back on, intermittently this time, but still on. Today I was told that the codes indicate that maybe my oil is dirty and they could replace my oil and see if that fixes the problem. I opted out, since I changed oil in November and don't drive that much but now that I'm thinking about it, this light did start coming on shortly after that oil change last year. Could that really be the problem. Any advice? Should I just ignore it since it's not seeming to affect my car's performance (and I'm short on cash!)? Thanks!
I live on the Central Coast in NSW and travel to Sydney for work.
Now don't judge me in advance - but I listen to AM Radio in the moring primarly for traffic/ accident/ weather informaiton.
In Sydney the AM radio is perfect/crystal clear as good as FM. However for anyone familiar witht he F3 north bound run back to the central coast as soon as I get to the top of the "big dipper" I lose the AM radio to a background crackle noise that progressily gets worse the further I go north.
In previous Volvos I have owned in the last 5 years, I never had this problem. In other makes and models of cars relo have etc I haven't had/seen this problem. I have tried both manulally and scanning in the AM stations etc and it make little difference. The best I can get is ABC 702AM. And that is pretty patchy.
Does anyone else have this problem? I drive a V40 T5 R Design.
My Wifes '99 V40 is having issues with the rear doors which is proving a nightmare getting kids in and out of the car. Until last week, all was fine. Then all of a sudden the rear doors will not open at all. One side had a child lock on. The indicator knob rises when the central locking is activated and the solenoid sounds normal on both sides. You can not open the doors from the outside, or either from the inside!? The problems happened to both sides at the same time and we are getting desperate. I would love to take to a garage, but simply cannot afford too. So I am hoping someone here has an idea!
Newbie here, Hi guys hope you can help.....sometimes my tail gate locks when closing it and sometimes it dosen't, I have adjusted the bubber buffers on the bodywork but that does not seem to works either, any ideas gents? thanks in advance
My Volvo V40 (2000 year) has only done 83,000 miles. Yesterday the air bag warning light remains on after I have started the car, and never goes out. Searching here in Volvo Forum, it looks like a costly trip to a Volvo main dealer. Or does anyone have any useful suggestion as to how it can be rectified ? Secondly, is there are potential risk/problem in driving the car as it is ?
The only work done recently was in Nov and Dec. 2012 -complete front headlamp unit replaced at Volvo main dealer; then heater fan fault rectified by an independent auto-electrician. Since then the car has run perfectly until this latest fault.
I am now beginning to feel that Volvos are not as reliable as they used to be, and the V40 I have is nowhere near as good as my previous Volvo - the solid 850.
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
I have a problem. I Have Volvo V40 1999 petrol 1.8. A cpl weeks ago i saw that my car start be smoky. Smoke was white. so i check my coolant level and oil. my coolant level was dropped less then an minimum and oil color was creamy. So i was thinking that is head gasket. so i bring my car to mechanics. They check and told me that my water pump was broken not head gasket. so they change timing belt. water pump. of course new oil filter and new oil. When i collected my car seems was everything ok. (For mechanic paid 400euro). Drive back home about 10km. and my car for cpl days was standing. when i was planing to go to work and i started my car. I saw that again its to many smoke coming from tailpipe. i checked my coolant.Coolant level was just above the minimum and color was brownish. Oil color normal. So i don't have clue what happen now. Of course i will bring back car to mechanic who was fixing. But for my own knowledge what to know what can be. is it possible that wrong coolant. or its normal. I hope so maybe somebody from you had same problem.
My four year old was messing about with the alarm keyfob on my 1998 V40, must have held some buttons down or something because now any time I try to lock my car with the keyfob the alarm goes off automatically!
Is there a sequence of button presses or something that will stop this annoyance?
I have a 2003/4 V40 1.9 Diesel and the engine seems to take forever to warm up. Changed thermostat (uprated opening temp from 89 to 92 degrees) to no effect. Fitted a second new thermostat, ran engine for about an hour and bled system from heater hose and top hose. With diagnostic eqipment attached coolant temp recorded at 92-94 degrees but all hoses were barely warm and consequently heater not very hot. Temp gauge reads half way/normal. Today completed 6/7 mile journey home including some dual carriageway, checked hoses and only just warm. No overheating problems and no water loss just doesn't seem to get hot as quick as it should. Also placed piece of cardboard in front of rad. If engine temp is 90 odd degrees surely hoses should be too hot to hold for more than a few seconds mine are barely warm. If there was an airlock surely I would have problems when it shifted. Anybody had a problem like this or got any ideas I would be grateful for any feedback. Thanks
After a long list of troubleshooting, I think I should be able to start my car by jumping the starter solenoid so I can take it to a mechanic. However, I've been staring at my engine for a bit trying to locate my starter, but I can't seem to find it anywhere looking down at the engine. I haven't looked underneath the engine yet because I don't have any car stands and I'd rather not try to jack it without using em.
Can anyone confirm where the starter is located or if it can be accessed through the top?
I just got 2001 v40. I noticed that air vents control doesnt work right - cant get any air to blow on windshield. I can switch it to blow through the front and side vents. Fan is working fine. I guess it's vacuum line issues, can anybody point to schematic to figure it out?
I recently replaced the alternator and battery in my 1999 V40 as it had been stood for around 3 months and needed both. A week after replacing the battery the alarm LED is constantly on when the car is switched off and locked. What this means isn't covered in the manual. Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Many thanks, Vigo.
I have a 2002 Volvo V40. The heating element works, but the fan is schizophrenic. When the dial is on low, it works, but then occasionally comes on full blast for a second or two. With the dial on medium, it's as if the fan is still on low, but again it comes on full blast periodically for short periods of time. And with the dial on high, it's mostly full blast, but still a little unpredictable.
From what I have read, it's located behind the passenger glove compartment. Is this a part I could replace with limited car knowledge -- but all the necessary tools? Or should I just visit a mechanic? Or do you experts think it's something else?
well just picked up my new wheels, its a lovely year 2000 2.0 Turbo with the basic volvo performance kit fitted by the dealers, the first time the dump valve went off caught me by surprise, but the car drives well despite the 150,000 on the clock, the rear suspension has been changed to adjustable bilsteins and I have got the set for the front (included but not fitted). I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow when its daylight, to say the performance difference was noticeable over my 1.8 GDI v40 would be an understatement (as it happens on the way to pick up the new one the old v40 started clunking on right turns (I'm guessing drive shaft or cv joint) Grendel
Hi i have a 98 v40 2.0 that wont start but turns over. new battery(s)fitted, tried the 5x lock unlock for reseting the immobilizer etc. On key start it turns over / sounds resonably slow and there is no immobilizer fault light showing however the relay on top of the fuse box clicks constantly, one of the reasons i suspected the immobilizer. clean terminals etc
Is it possibly just a shagged starter is the immobilizer playing up or is there something else i should be looking at?
Update: after putting the multi-meter on there isnt any power to some of the cabin fuses and the main "engine" fuse under the bonnet, is this the immobiliser or is there a feed fault somewhere??
I have a question about the standard Volvo V-40 rear pillar speakers. I would like to know the specs as in total power and nominal power in Wats. Searched googled and i can't seem to find the specifications anywhere only the price, see this link :
As u can see on the back it reads : LPBH / 130 / 19 / 115 so doe this mean that the speakers can handle 130w max and 19w nominal?
I bought a pair of Pioneer speakers that fin in the rear pillars of the car, these speakers costed me â¬ 45,- so they are more expansive then the Volvo standard ones. They are Pioneer TS-G1321I with a max power of 200W and 35w nominal.
I cant make a choise weather to put the pioneers of keep the original Volvo speakers ( i still can bring the pioneers back to the shop and get my money back) I think the pioneers are better but they are a bit smaller and even feel lighter compared to the volvo ones.
Hope somebody can help me out here.
Ow i forgot to mention, ive put a 4channel amp in the back and im using 2 channels for a subwoofer so the other 2 channels are free to hook up speakers. Also not sure yet if im going to hook up the rear speaers to the amp.
My Volvo v40 (X reg. year 2000) has a fault on the front offside headlamp. The dipped beam does not work, although the full beam is still working. Tried new bulb but the problem persists. The headlamp fuse is OK. This morning I have been to a local garage but they cannot find the answer, even after fitting a new electrical connection box, and trying 3 different bulbs. The power is getting to the headlamp unit, but for some reason the bulb is not lighting on dipped beam. Does anyone have any idea as to the cause and the remedy ?? There are a couple of posts in here re headlamp faults, but I can find nothing in them to point me in the right direction. Hoping someone has the answer for me.
Hi well to cut to the chase, this is the 3rd v40 i have owned, this one being the bi-fuel model,1.8 2001, anyway, whilst driving one day i went to go into 5th gear and "nothing"? it does not crunch grate etc just if it has only 4gears and 5th option is sloppy and like the clutch is still pressed to the floor, i have or the garage i go to has changed the fluid and noticed the cv boot was leaking so i was losing gearbox oil, this has been changed but makes no difference, garage says i need new gearbox! is this right or i thought it was a rod or selector or something easy? Thanks guys
Morning, all. New (well old, actually) Volvo (also old) owner here for the first time of probably many visits.
I bought my 1999 Volvo V40 2.0 automatic estate last week but it came with no user manual and I'm struggling to find the right one online. I've sorted a lights issue with help from a thread I found in here but have a question about the rear wiper. Mine doesn't work and I can't even find the right fuse to check, although they all look OK to me. One manual I did find online is for eth 2002 model and points to an internal fuse box somewhere near or in the glove-box but my car doesn't have one - or my eyesight is worse than I thought.
Hi all, bit new to this so be patient with me. I have a v40 1.9 diesel sport, 2004 and yesterday the temp gauge started fluctuating. It never rose above its normal position but i noticed when I slowed down, the gauge started to drop and when I accelerated it rose to the normal position again. I checked the coolant level and that was fine. Any suggestions please?
we have had the Volvo s40 for some time and it has never been perfectly smooth while idling OK but not perfect
we changed the timing belt when we first bought the car a couple of years ago
about 12 months ago it almost died so i replace a coil pack which didn't help so i replaced the other one which solved the problem and at just over 200,000 it was probably worth changing both.
we drove from Victoria to Queensland and it ran fine until we reached Queensland when it started to misfire at the same time not sure weather it is coincidence or no but we accidently put some E10 in the tank.
we had the fuel system flushed out all except the lines and the tank.
i have since replaced leads and plugs and now it seems to fire much better but still misfires and had a look at the air filter which looks OK i think we replaced it in Victoria at some point.
has anyone had this problem before or know anything about it?
Hi! I have an 01 v40, the issue is there is a strange noise when shifting, and stopping. Also when you look at the engine while shifting, it tilts backwards. I'm not suree if it's the transmission or an engine mount. Any info would be very helpful!
I own a 2006 s40 which today for some reason is playing up. The buttons on the key are not locking/unlockng the doors and the key will not insert fully into the ignition, yet i can turn it and the car starts and drives even though the key is sitting on the passengers seat. Any advise would be much appreciated.
Apologies if this has already been covered, I could not find any answers to it when I have been looking.
I have an S reg V40 which has been causing me a few issues recently, firstly the central locking key fob doesn't work, this caused the alarm to go off constantly any time the car was started, the siren seems to be ok now and the car is drivable, however the hazard lights are now constantly on and the key fob still doesn't work but the car can be locked with the key. Locking the car with the key isn't a problem for me but I would like to be able to drive it without the hazard lights on.
If it's an easy fix for me that would be great as I would rather not drive it to my local dealer (20 miles) with hazards on. Does anybody have any suggestions please?
Hi guys been a while since ive been on here and now im on my 4th volvo so doing pretty well Just bought a v40 t4 and loving the power but could use a bit more really so would love some good suggestions for what i can do to get those extra horses out of the beast! looking to fit a dump valve once i actually find somewhere that sells a blanking plate for the recirc valve then anything else that will help it, Also just one little niggle I do have is that it turns over quite a while before starting when cold or left for say more than an hour anybody got any ideas what could be causing it?
Like i said any help or suggestions would be great cheers people!!
hi thanks for allowing me to post my problem. im in rural bulgaria and need my car to get arround car has been great had it for two years no problem till 3 days ago drove car when i parked up everything was ok pressed remote locking but indicator light kept flashing went back to car and put egnition on i noticed i had no intrum lights, no lcd fuel gauge all lcd read outs had gone,no radio cd player, no remote central locking i have checked all fuses and there all ok.
volvo 19 sport 2003 diesel car drives fine, all ok, but when driving over the slightest bump in the road . a knocking seens to come on the drivers side but i dont know if its coming from the front wheel/suspen/or steering but it seems to come from inside the lower dash. got me baffled. anybody had anything similar. or know what it is.. (sometimes its ok ) THANKS